Piaget arrived at Watches & Wonders 2026 with a familiar face wearing a new expression. The Polo Signature Date 42 is not a reinvention; it is a deepening. Taking the well-established cushion-shaped sports watch architecture that has anchored Piaget's contemporary lineup since 2016, the Maison has grafted the gadroon motif directly onto the dial.
Introducing: Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar—Ref. 5204G-010 (Live Photos)
Few manufacturers have approached the chronograph with the same degree of deliberate, long-term intent as Patek Philippe. What began in 2005 with calibre CHR 27-525 PS—at the time the world's thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement—was less a product launch than the opening move in a sustained program to build an entirely manufacture-developed chronograph family from the ground up.
Introducing: Hermès Arceau Samarcande Minute Repeater (Live Photos)
The Arceau Samarcande Minute Repeater is the piece at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 that most clearly places Hermès in a conversation with the established haute horlogerie houses. A minute repeater on demand, a skeletonized movement designed exclusively for Hermès, a dial carved from Saint-Louis crystal into the silhouette of a horse's head.
Introducing: Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition (Live Photos)
Armin Strom has built its identity on one of horology's most demanding propositions: resonance, practically applied. The Biel/Bienne manufacture has spent years refining the principle of two synchronized balance wheels operating in harmonic resonance, producing movements that are as compelling to watch as they are technically rigorous.
Introducing: Patek Philippe Automaton 'The Crow and the Fox'—Ref. 5249R-001 (Live Photos)
This is the one novelty from Patek Philippe that demands a longer look. The new reference 5249R-001 is the first automaton wristwatch Patek Philippe has produced in its contemporary history in a 43 mm rose gold Officer's-style case housing a movement that, when a pusher at 2 o'clock is depressed, animates figures on the dial to reveal the time on demand via retrograde hands.
Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantieme Perpetuel Anniversaire—Celebrating 30 Years (Live Photos)
Parmigiani Fleurier's 30th anniversary could have yielded a retrospective piece or a reissue; instead, the brand chose the harder path: a celebratory dial treatment on an existing reference without compromise. The Toric Quantieme Perpetuel Anniversaire, shown at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, is a perpetual calendar of striking restraint.
Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronographe Rattrapante Anniversaire (Live Photos)
Parmigiani Fleurier's 30th-anniversary novelties span a spectrum of complications from elemental to extraordinary. The Toric Chronographe Rattrapante Anniversaire occupies the extreme end of that spectrum: a split-seconds chronograph in platinum with a hand-hammered gold dial and an 18K rose gold movement.
Introducing: Chopard L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue—A Sector Dial in an Ultra-Thin Watch (Live Photos)
Chopard used the 30th anniversary of its Fleurier Manufacture to make the case for restraint. The L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue is a 40 mm ultra-thin dress watch in Lucent Steel that owes its entire chromatic identity to the historical relationship between the Canton of Neuchâtel—where the Manufacture is based—and the Kingdom of Prussia.
Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux Steel—The Disappearing Hands (Live Photos)
Parmigiani Fleurier has spent the last four years building a distinct architecture of restraint. The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante in 2022 and the Minute Rattrapante in 2023 each introduced a complication that retracted when not in use. For the brand's 30th anniversary at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the third chapter arrives: the Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux.
Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Anniversaire (Live Photos)
There is no complication to lean on here, no numerically dense dial to signal effort. The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Anniversaire, introduced at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 as part of Parmigiani Fleurier's 30th-anniversary novelties, features hours, minutes, and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, and asks the case, the dial, and the movement to bear the full weight of that simplicity.
Introducing: Bianchet UltraFino Maserati Flying Tourbillon—Inspired by the MCPURA (Live Photos)
The watch-car collaboration is a category with more misses than hits, but when the engineering philosophies genuinely align, the result can be more than the sum of its parts. Bianchet and Maserati have come together to unveil the UltraFino Maserati Flying Tourbillon ahead of Watches and Wonders 2026 in Geneva, where we will see it in person and report on the ground.
Introducing: L. Leroy Elyor Tourbillon Seconde Centrale—An Exquisite Timepiece in Three Metals (Live Photos)
Few names in French watchmaking carry the weight of L.Leroy. Founded in Paris in 1785 by Charles Leroy, the Maison was appointed official watchmaker to the French royal court before becoming supplier to the French Naval Ministry in 1835—a role it held longer than any other manufacturer, producing more than 2,200 marine chronometers for naval fleets across Europe.
Introducing: IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 Titanium—Light and Monochromatic (Live Photos)
At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, IWC brings that combination to titanium for the first time, with reference IW344904. The case is the same at 41.6 mm in diameter. The movement is unchanged. What shifts is everything you feel: this is now IWC's lightest perpetual calendar watch in production.
Introducing: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar Silvery Black Gradient Dial—Ref. 5236P-011 (Live Photos)
First presented in 2021 with a blue dial and then in 2024 with a salmon dial, the In-Line Perpetual Calendar is Patek Philippe’s newest perpetual calendar with an innovative patented one-line display that shows the day, date, and month on a single line in an elongated aperture beneath 12 o'clock. Now, for Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the reference 5236P in platinum returns to the center stage with a new look.
Introducing: Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Yellow Gold and Bloodstone Dial (Live Photos)
For Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, Zenith closes out its 161st year with a second interpretation in an 18K yellow-gold case and a dramatically different dial material, shifting the watch's personality from cool, nocturnal to something warmer and earthier, this time paired with a bloodstone dial.
Introducing: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry—A Honeycomb Built by Hand (Live Photos)
Chopard's Fleurier Manufacture marks its 30th anniversary at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 with perhaps its most intimate statement: an eight-piece limited edition that unites a jumping-hour complication with a dial assembled from hand-split rye straw. The L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry is presented in 18K ethical yellow gold with a natural straw marquetry dial.
Introducing: The Hermès H08 Squelette—Where the Architecture Is the Dial (Live Photos)
At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, Hermès made its most technically ambitious move in the five-year history of the H08. The H08 Squelette—three years in development—is the collection's first skeletonized timepiece, and the one that most clearly argues for the H08 as a genuine object of manufacture watchmaking rather than a design-forward fashion accessory.
Introducing: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel with Integrated Bracelet—Back to its Origins (Live Photos)
Now, at Watches and Wonders 2026, Roger Dubuis follows that pink gold original with a new expression in stainless steel and an integrated bracelet that can be swapped for a rubber strap: the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar reference RDDBEX1209, making the complication accessible to a broader audience without softening the watchmaking credentials.
Introducing: De Bethune DB28XS Dark Sand—Embrace the Dark Side (Live Photos)
De Bethune's DB28XS has always sat at the intersection of serious independent watchmaking and compact wearability. With the DB28XS Dark Sand, the manufacture takes that formula into decidedly darker, more mineral territory—deploying matte anthracite zirconium across the case and floating lugs to create something that reads as both stealthy and technically intentional.
Introducing: Chopard L.U.C 1860 Lucent Steel and Areuse Blue Dial (Live Photos)
Chopard's Manufacture in Fleurier turns thirty this year, and to mark the occasion, the maison has released a new edition of the L.U.C 1860—the reference that effectively announced the birth of the L.U.C line in 1996. Rather than a nostalgia exercise, this is a considered continuation: same 36.5 mm case, same austere clarity of layout, but now rendered in Lucent Steel.
