This is the one novelty from Patek Philippe that demands a longer look. The new reference 5249R-001 is the first automaton wristwatch Patek Philippe has produced in its contemporary history in a 43 mm rose gold Officer's-style case housing a movement that, when a pusher at 2 o'clock is depressed, animates figures on the dial to reveal the time on demand via retrograde hands.
The concept traces directly to a pocket watch conceived by Louis Cottier in 1958, reference 784, preserved in the Patek Philippe Museum. Based on Jean de La Fontaine's fable “The Crow and the Fox”, the fascinating animation of time brings both animals to life in hand-engraved gold appliqués on a matara brown opaline 18K gold plate, surrounded by hand-engraved foliage. Each watch requires 150 hours of manual engraving work.
Things to Know About the Watch
The 43 mm 18K rose gold case is 11.55 mm thick and is equipped with an Officer's-style dust cover protecting the sapphire crystal on the case back. The watch features a turban-style crown rarely used by Patek Philippe. The dial, with applied hand-engraved fox, crow, and foliage decorations in 18K gold, shows hours and minutes via retrograde indication only when the pusher at 2 o’clock is pressed.
The fox indicates the hour by lifting his paw between 0 and 6, and by moving his snout between 7 and 12. Meanwhile, the minutes are indicated by the crow moving a pointer hand with a piece of cheese at the tip.
At 6 o’clock, a diamond set on a four-point star serves as the running seconds indicator, confirming that the watch is running. The watch is delivered on a shiny chocolate-brown alligator strap with a rose-gold triple-blade fold-over clasp.
The Movement
Powering the Patek Philippe Automaton is the calibre 31-260 PS HMD AU. This automatic movement required the development of a patented disengaging clutch system to secure the time-setting mechanism. The movement is equipped with a platinum off-center micro-rotor. Beating at 28,800 vph with a Gyromax balance and Spiromax spring, the movement provides a power reserve of 38 to 48 hours when fully wound.
On the Wrist & Price
The 5249R-001 sits in a category with essentially no contemporary competition — it is genuinely sui generis, a complication born from the manufacture's deep archive and realized with a level of handcraft that makes the price feel, if not modest, at least intelligible. It will appeal to the collector who has moved through the perpetual calendars and chronographs and is looking for something with a theatrical dimension that fine watchmaking rarely offers. Worth every moment of attention.
Sticker Price USD 411,388.
