For Roger Dubuis, the biretrograde display is not an affectation; it is the founding act. In 1989, six years before the Maison officially existed, Roger Dubuis co-patented the biretrograde mechanism alongside Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, replacing strip springs with spiral springs and rethinking the cam geometry from the ground up. The complication became the cornerstone of the brand he launched in 1995.
At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, Roger Dubuis marked its 30th anniversary by returning to those roots, releasing the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in 18K pink gold—a deliberate and overdue course correction after years of leaning heavily into motorsport partnerships.
Now, at Watches and Wonders 2026, Roger Dubuis follows that pink gold original with a new expression in stainless steel and an integrated bracelet that can be swapped for a rubber strap: the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar reference RDDBEX1209, making the complication accessible to a broader audience without softening the watchmaking credentials.
Things to Know About the Watch
The 40 mm stainless steel case is finished with three distinct surface treatments—polishing, shot-blasting, and satin-brushing. The Cosmic Blue dial is built across seven layers: a double-surface Cosmic Blue flange, sun-brushed ecliptic counters with rhodium coating, a circular-brushed center plate, and an open-worked view to the movement beneath.
Two biretrograde hands indicate day and date with immediate legibility before snapping back. The Poinçon de Genève hallmark appears on both the dial and the oscillating weight—the placement on the dial required specific approval from the Poinçon de Genève authority—and this was a first for any Roger Dubuis timepiece when introduced on the pink gold original. The red accents against the cosmic blue backdrop add the right amount of contrast and sportiness to the watch.
The case finishing is exquisitely done, and the screw-down crown is protected by crown guards that are not too prominent. The watch features an interchangeable strap system that allows the wearer to switch from a bracelet to a rubber strap in seconds.
The Movement
The sapphire case back reveals the calibre RD840. This automatic movement is certified by the Poinçon de Genève, and executes its biretrograde calendar across 244 components. Beating at 28,800 vph it provides a 60-hour power reserve. Finishing includes Côtes de Genève, wheel-bevelling, burnisher bevelling, frosting, circular graining, perlage, and mirror polishing—each applied by hand to every component.
The prestigious Poinçon de Genève certification is prominently displayed on the oscillating weight which is a modernized version of the 1996 oscillating weight from vintage Roger Dubuis timepieces. A co-founders' inscription in cursive font runs along the movement periphery, a detail carried over from the pink gold original.
On the Wrist & Price
The Roger Dubuis Biretrograde Calendar in steel follows the spirit of last year's anniversary pink gold ref. RDDBEX1179, while offering a more wearable, integrated bracelet option with a metal designed for daily rotation. Here we have the same complication and the same finishing standard as its pink gold sibling, but with additional versatility. This watch offers a relatively more accessible entry point—step down in price from pink gold—to the Maison’s most historically significant complication, with an exceptionally finished bracelet and an offering that should yield tenfold for the brand.
Sticker Price USD 43,900. For more info on Roger Dubuis click here.
