Patek Philippe has reimagined one of its most revered grand complications for Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, giving the 5270 perpetual calendar chronograph a decidedly sportier disposition. The new 5270P-017 pairs a fully polished platinum case with a concave bezel and a striking red lacquered dial whose black-gradient rim lends the watch an almost racing-inspired aesthetic—a rare tonal departure for a reference more commonly associated with understated classicism. This new watch joins two other colorful models released this week, along with the green lacquered dial sibling released in 2022.
Things to Know About the Watch
The 5270 has long occupied a central place in Patek's grand complications catalog since its 2011 debut, and this latest iteration marks one of its most visually expressive treatments to date. The 41 mm platinum case is entirely polished, featuring a concave bezel and distinctive two-tier lugs, with the customary diamond set at 6 o'clock signaling the precious metal beneath.
The lacquered red dial is fitted with faceted white gold "obus"-style hour markers and dauphine hands, framed by a printed white tachymeter scale for added legibility. Day and month appear through a double aperture at 12 o'clock, while the date is read on the subdial at 6 o'clock, accompanied by day/night and leap year indications. A black composite strap with fabric pattern and contrasting red stitching reinforces the sporting intent.
The Movement
Powering the 5270P-017 is Patek's manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre, a movement celebrated for uniting traditional column-wheel chronograph architecture with six patented innovations. Measuring 32 mm across and 7 mm thick, the calibre comprises 456 components and 33 jewels, beats at 28,800 vph, and delivers a power reserve between 55 and 65 hours with the chronograph disengaged. It carries the Patek Philippe Seal.
On the Wrist & Price
At 41 mm by 12.4 mm, the new Patek Philippe 5270P-017 with red lacquer dial wears as a serious grand complication, substantial, but balanced by the concave bezel and fabric strap for a contemporary feel.
Sticker Price USD 248, 813 USD. For more info on Patek Philippe, click here.
