The intersection of independent watchmaking and a luxury maison savoir-faire rarely produces work of genuine consequence. Most collaborations remain superficial exercises in badge engineering, little more than dial swaps dressed in marketing hyperbole. The previous collaboration between La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and Akrivia was a perfect example of this marketing hyperbole. Our editor’s thoughts on that collaboration can be found here.
However, the De Bethune x Louis Vuitton LVDB-03 Louis Varius project, unveiled as part of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, shatters this paradigm entirely. Here, Denis Flageollet and Jean Arnault have created something far more ambitious: a contemporary reinterpretation of the 18th-century Sympathique clock paired with 12 travel-focused wristwatches that extend the DNA of the iconic DB25 GMT Starry Varius into profoundly collaborative territory.
Below: Denis Flageollet (Co-Founder De Bethune) and Jean Arnault (Director Louis Vuitton Watchmaking Division)
“The first time I heard about Denis Flageollet I must admit, it left me very perplexed… It’s only after visiting De Bethune and seeing the extraordinary discipline and imagination behind every decision that I began to understand who he truly is: a modern-day Leonardo da Vinci.’’ Jean Arnault.
A Horological Ecosystem Born from Breguet's 1795 Sympatique Vision
The Sympathique concept traces its lineage to 1795, when Abraham-Louis Breguet penned an excited letter to his son describing a revolutionary invention: a clock capable of automatically setting and regulating a specially designed pocket watch without human intervention. "Every night when going to bed, you put the watch into the clock," Breguet wrote. "In the morning, or one hour later, it will be exactly on time with the clock. It is not even necessary to open the watch."
These master timekeepers would cradle their companion watches in a special recess, then at a predetermined hour, automatically set the correct time and adjust the watch's rate to minimize gain or loss. Breguet produced approximately twenty examples in his lifetime, each representing the apex of 18th-century horological ambition. Below: Photos of the Breguet Sympatique Clock No. 13 that we captured during our visit to the Breguet manufacture in L’Orient, Switzerland.
The De Bethune x Louis Vuitton LVDB-03 Louis Varius project resurrects this nearly forgotten complication for the 21st century, and herein lies the genius of its dual nature. The LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius watch ref. WATI11 and its companion LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius clock ref. Q1TA10 forms an inseparable horological ecosystem that translates Breguet's vision through De Bethune's contemporary technical vocabulary. When nestled in its docking cradle concealed beneath a rose-gold dome engraved with the constellation Hercules—a subtle nod to Louis Vuitton's astrological sign—the wristwatch automatically rewinds and synchronizes with the clock, ensuring optimal timekeeping through the elegant mechanical symbiosis between clock and watch that so captivated the master two centuries ago.
Louis Vuitton and De Bethune will produce precisely two LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius clocks, each paired with its matching LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius watch as a complete horological ecosystem. Beyond these two clock-and-watch ensembles, De Bethune will craft 10 additional LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius watches for individual purchase, bringing the total wristwatch production to 12 examples.
The DB2507LV Calibre: Dual-Time-Zone Mastery
Crafted and assembled entirely at the De Bethune manufacture, the watch houses the newly developed DB2507LV calibre, a movement integrating the complexity of dual-time-zone indication with the elegance of De Bethune's signature aesthetic codes. The sophisticated calibre offers instant readability of local and home time through a multi-disc display, while a rotating spherical day-and-night indicator—derived from De Bethune's patented 2004 spherical moon-phase construction—completes two full rotations every 24 hours. Crafted in 5N rose gold and flame-blued steel achieved through traditional alcohol-lamp techniques, this indicator provides continuous, intuitive reading across time zones with a poetry befitting its technical accomplishment.
The movement beating at 28,800 vph features a twin self-regulating barrel system delivering a five-day power reserve, while regulation is provided by a manually poised blued-titanium balance wheel set with white-gold inserts. The balance spring features a flat terminal curve for enhanced stability and precision, working in concert with a silicon escape wheel and De Bethune's proprietary triple pare-chute shock-absorption system to ensure chronometric performance worthy of both manufactures' reputations. The movement bears an engraved dedication—"Louis cruises with Denis"—a calligraphic testament to this singular encounter between watchmaking minds.
Where Louis Vuitton Finishing Meets De Bethune Blue
The case architecture represents a fascinating fusion of each maison's DNA. Louis Vuitton contributes its signature case design and finishing techniques honed through the Tambour Taiko, including satin-brushed, sandblasted, and polished surfaces complemented by double-finished lugs and the usual engraved with twelve ‘LOUIS VUITTON’ letters bezel.
De Bethune answers with its mastery of heat-blued titanium and the mesmerizing star-studded dial featuring the Louis Vuitton logo among the stars, which has become synonymous with the brand's celestial aesthetic. The 45mm case—14.05mm in thickness—features platinum lugs integrated with a heat-blued titanium middle case, achieved through De Bethune's proprietary thermal oxidation process.
This surface, produced through an exclusive artisanal process developed in-house, sees white-gold pins individually set by hand into micro-perforations of varying sizes, creating luminous depth across the firmament. The composition achieves additional richness through fine 24K gold leaves hand-applied by Élisabeth, a decorative artisan at the De Bethune ateliers.
The Sympathique Clock: 763 Components of Mechanical Poetry
If the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius watch impresses through technical sophistication and aesthetic refinement, the LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius clock astounds through sheer ambition. At its heart beats an entirely in-house De Bethune movement comprising 763 components, key-wound with two large barrels and a remontoir d'égalité. Beating at 18,000 vph, this calibre delivers an extraordinary 11-day power reserve, ensuring the Sympathique function operates reliably between manual interventions.
François Schuiten's Vision, Michèle Rothen's Hand
Master engraver Michèle Rothen spent months translating Schuiten's pen work into three immersive scenes of exploration: a steam train crossing a viaduct, hot-air balloons floating above an African savanna, and sherpas ascending mountain peaks. These rings rotate slowly, creating an ever-evolving dreamscape that suggests time's cyclical, surreal nature—a miniature diorama invoking early 19th-century theatrical tradition while celebrating humanity's perpetual drive toward discovery.
The clock's visual narrative proves equally compelling. Anchored to a titanium base adorned with marquetry of polished flame-blued meteorite, the mechanism can be set in multiple orientations via a tilt-lock system reminiscent of historical marine chronometers. Encircling this horological core are three hand-engraved rose-gold rings—over one meter of engraved surface—bringing to life the illustrations of acclaimed Belgian artist François Schuiten. The clock stands 26 centimeters—10.2 inches—tall with a diameter of 31 centimeters—12.2 inches.
Bespoke Titanium Trunks from Asnières
The presentation befits objects of such consequence. Two bespoke titanium trunks crafted by Louis Vuitton's master artisans in Asnières house the collection: a monumental Trophy Trunk for the Sympathique clock and a dedicated High Watchmaking trunk for the twelve LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius wristwatches. De Bethune's heat-blued titanium corner protectors, developed exclusively for this project, complement palladium lozines echoed in the locks, creating cohesion between containment and content.
Summary & Price
More than thirty artisans devoted years to realizing this vision, their combined expertise spanning watchmaking, mechanics, engraving, beveling, polishing, and decorative arts. The LVDB-03 Louis Varius project stands as a testament to what becomes possible when two houses of genuine creative vision—one rooted in independent horological innovation, the other in travel heritage and craft mastery—commit fully to collaboration without compromise.
Jean Arnault's description of Denis Flageollet as a "modern-day Leonardo da Vinci" seems hyperbolic until one confronts the reality of this achievement: a dream object destined to mark the history of horological conquest.
The LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius watch is delivered with an alligator leather strap and a textile strap, both featuring a blued titanium pin buckle. Louis Vuitton and De Bethune will produce precisely two LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius clocks, each paired with its matching LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius watch as a complete horological set and 10 additional LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius watches for individual purchase.
Sticker Price €375,000—approx USD 444,000—for LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius Watch and €4,000,000—approx USD 4,740,000—for the LVDB-03 Sympatique Louis Varius clock set that includes a LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius watch.
For more info on Louis Vuitton click here, and for De Bethune, here.
