De Bethune reimagines its iconic DB28 in radiant yellow titanium, creating a 38.7 mm masterpiece that burns bright with horological innovation. Few manufactures possess the technical prowess and aesthetic vision to transform titanium into something resembling captured sunlight. We were able to go hands-on with the watch yesterday at the SIAR 2025 in Mexico City and we were blown away by the impressive yellow tones of the case.
The yellow titanium finish isn't achieved through coating or plating but through an exclusive thermal oxidation process developed in-house at L'Auberson. This meticulous treatment transforms grade 5 titanium into a palette of warm tones evoking amber, fawn, sunshine, and flames. Each component—from the case to the barrel bridge, hands, and hour markers—receives individual attention, with artisans adjusting the oxidation parameters based on the metal's type, shape, and mass. The result is a mesmerizing gradient of golden hues that shifts with light and viewing angle.
Things to Know About the Watch
The DB28xs Yellow Tones represents more than a colorway variation; it's a complete reimagining of De Bethune's celebrated DB28 collection. Measuring 38.7 mm in diameter and a svelte 8mm in thickness, this timepiece achieves what master watchmaker and founder Denis Flageollet calls "new harmony"—a refined aesthetic balance that honors the DB28's architectural DNA while exploring uncharted chromatic territory.
The new DB28xs Yellow Tones features an extensively openworked dial that transforms the watch into a three-dimensional stage for mechanical theater. The distinctive delta-shaped barrel bridge in yellow titanium dominates the upper dial, finished with microlight decoration and featuring sandblasted and polished chamfered contours.
A circular satin-finished titanium chapter ring displays hours and minutes, punctuated by yellow polished titanium hour markers that ensure legibility while maintaining the monochromatic warmth of the design.
Below, the balance wheel dances hypnotically at 28,800 vph, visible through the dial's architectural framework. An array of reflections and warm tones dominate the dial and the whole watch.
The Movement
Flip the watch over, and enjoy the captivating manual wound calibre DB2115V14, a 244-part movement that embodies De Bethune's commitment to chronometric excellence. This calibre showcases an impressive six-day power reserve, achieved through a self-regulating twin barrel—a De Bethune innovation from 2004 that optimizes energy delivery throughout the power reserve cycle. The movement features a linear power reserve indicator with blue accents, allowing the wearer to track the movement's six-day energy reserve at a glance.
The movement incorporates several patented technologies that distinguish De Bethune from its contemporaries. The titanium balance wheel features white gold inserts, optimized to compensate for temperature variations and air resistance. The proprietary balance spring with its flat terminal curve ensures exceptional precision, while a silicon escape wheel reduces friction and improves efficiency. Protecting this mechanical heart is De Bethune's triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, providing robust protection against impacts.
On the Wrist & Price
The Debethune DB28xs Yellow Tones prioritizes wearability with its ergonomic case construction and floating lug system that hugs the wrist with a warm embrace and exceptional comfort. The delicately polished grade 5 titanium case ensures remarkable lightness on the wrist. The DB28xs Yellow Tones has a total weight of 45.7 grams including its double-lined rich brown alligator leather strap with matching titanium pin buckle.
This is a watch for collectors who appreciate watches that challenge conventional aesthetics while delivering uncompromising technical performance. Once again, De Bethune proves that innovation in watchmaking isn't always about adding complications, sometimes it's about rethinking light, material, and color to create something that captures attention and holds it.
Sticker Price USD 115,000. For more info on De Bethune click here.
