When independent Swiss watchmaker De Bethune speaks of blue, they're not merely discussing a color—they're exploring an entire philosophy of light, reflection, and horological artistry. The manufacture's latest creation, the new DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon, represents more than just another luxury timepiece; it's a meditation on the very essence of blue and its profound relationship with light itself.
A Celebration of Contemporary Watchmaking
The DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon emerges as De Bethune's tribute to their signature color—a hue so integral to their identity that it appears throughout their history, from the very beginning of its history in each of its creations, in small touches here and there—a balance wheel, a hand, or a bridge—, and up to a full watch case. This isn't coincidental; it's deeply intentional.
What sets De Bethune's blue apart is its origin story. This isn't simply applied color—it's the result of a sophisticated thermal oxidation process used on metals. Steel and titanium lend themselves to this process, offering what the brand calls "a palette of shades that only natural light can reveal to perfection." The resulting blue-themed stylistic exercise harnesses expertise acquired through years of perfecting this exclusive bluing process that only De Bethune knows how to master.
Then, the guilloché technique employed creates intricate patterns that plunge the viewer into the depths of the blue while subtly accentuating the contemporary architectural lines of the dial.
The case, for the first time in this model, is in the 39 mm xs format, paired with the brand’s emblematic blue hue crafted entirely from delicately polished and blued grade 5 titanium, a conscious decision to ensure optimal comfort on slender wrists. The patented floating lugs system adapts to wrist size and movements, while the extra-supple double-lined alligator leather strap and titanium buckle complete this carefully designed exterior. The De Bethune DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon is delivered on a blue alligator strap with a pin buckle and accompanied by an additional blue nylon fabric strap.
The Tourbillon Reimagined
At the heart of this timepiece beats the DB2009v5 movement, a manual wound calibre that showcases De Bethune's commitment to technical excellence. The ultra-light titanium tourbillon—comprising 63 components and weighing just 0.18 grams—represents a masterclass in precision engineering. Its construction enables a frequency of 36,000 vph with a rotation every 30 seconds, while maintaining a remarkable five-day power reserve thanks to its self-regulating twin barrel. This isn't just about visual spectacle—it's about reimagining one of watchmaking's most celebrated complications for the modern era.
The blued titanium balance wheel features white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration—a 2016 De Bethune patent that demonstrates their commitment to continuous innovation. Combined with their proprietary balance spring featuring a flat terminal curve and a silicon escape wheel, this movement represents the synthesis of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary materials science.
Their Philosophy: Blue on Blue
In an industry often obsessed with historical reverence, independent watchmaking dares to look forward no matter what. The DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon embodies that belief, exploring the relationship between light, material, and perception. This new timepiece stands as proof that in watchmaking—as in all art forms—, the most compelling creations emerge not from following established paths, but from having the courage to forge entirely new ones.
Sticker Price USD 225,000. For more info on De Bethune click here.
