Few watch manufactures dare to reimagine the very essence of time display with the audacity and technical mastery that defines De Bethune. The Swiss maison's latest creation, just presented at GWD—Geneva Watch Days 2025—is the new DB25Vxs Starry Varius, featuring a 40 mm case, two different versions in different metals, and a burgundy-colored dial. This piece transforms the wrist into a window to the cosmos itself.
A Sky Reddened by Fire
What immediately captivates about the new DB25Vxs Starry Varius is its extraordinary dial—a celestial canvas that tells the story of our planet's most dramatic natural phenomena. De Bethune has achieved something truly remarkable here: using their proprietary thermal oxidation process on natural titanium, they've captured the intense burgundy glow of volcanic activity, creating what they poetically describe as "a sky reddened by the fire of the earth."
This isn't merely decorative artistry—it's horological storytelling at its finest. The dial presents a nocturnal spectacle, where each star is meticulously hand-fitted as an individual white gold pin, creating micro-perforations that bring the starry sky to life. The pièce de résistance is the Milky Way motif, achieved through laser-beam micro-milling and gilded with 24-carat gold leaf, flowing across the volcanic burgundy like cosmic lava.
Refined Elegance in 40mm
The De Bethune DB25Vxs exemplifies De Bethune's masterful approach to case sizing, reducing the diameter from its original 44 mm format to a more contemporary and wrist-friendly 40mm. At just 8.8 mm thick, this watch achieves remarkable presence without sacrificing comfort—a feat that required complete rethinking of the timepiece's aesthetic balance, as Denis Flageollet himself notes.
The slender, curved lugs flow seamlessly from the polished 5N rose gold case, creating what the manufacture describes as "subtle openworked" elements that emphasize the roundness of the design. The result is a watch that sits perfectly on the wrist, its refined geometry speaking to De Bethune's relentless pursuit of ergonomic excellence.
The DB25Vxs Starry Varius is offered in two distinct interpretations: the mirror-polished grade 5 titanium case and the warmer 5N rose gold version. Both feature the same burgundy alligator leather strap, creating a cohesive color story that extends from dial to wrist. The 5N rose gold variant, with its polished 5N rose gold case and matching hands gliding over the silver-toned time ring, offers a particularly warm and luxurious feel. This version is supplied with an additional red nylon fabric strap. Meanwhile, the grade 5 Titanium model appears colder and more masculine. An additional grey nylon fabric strap accompanies this model.
The Powerhouse Within: Caliber DB2005
Beneath the cosmic display beats the impressive DB2005 movement—a manual-wound calibre that embodies De Bethune's innovative spirit. With 160 components working in harmony, this 30 mm movement delivers an exceptional 6-day power reserve through the brand's self-regulating twin-barrel system, a titanium balance wheel with white gold counterweights optimized for temperature variations, the patented "De Bethune" balance spring with flat terminal curve, a silicon escape wheel, and their triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system.
The De Bethune Difference & Price
What sets this timepiece apart in today's crowded luxury watch landscape is De Bethune's unwavering commitment to both innovation and artistry. The DB25Vxs Starry Varius isn't simply displaying time—it's presenting a poetic interpretation of our planet's relationship with the cosmos, executed with technical excellence that includes patents spanning two decades of research and development.
For the discerning collector, the DB25Vxs Starry Varius represents more than mere timekeeping; it is wearable astronomy, a piece that transforms the ritual of checking time into a moment of cosmic contemplation. In an era where many luxury watches rely on familiar formulas, De Bethune continues to chart unexplored territories of horological expression.
Sticker Price USD 80,000 for titanium and USD 85,000 for rose gold. For more info on De Bethune click here.
