First registered as a brand in 1926 by watch dealer and maker Veuve de Philippe Hüther, Tudor was officially taken over by Hans Wilsdorf—the founder of Rolex—in 1936. In his words, he wanted to make a watch that his agents could sell at a more modest price than his Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex was famous. Wilsdorf's intent was clear: create watches at modest prices while maintaining Rolex dependability. For decades, Tudor executed faithfully, producing tool watches that shared Rolex engineering while using external movements. Approaching its centennial and Watches and Wonders 2026, Tudor faces opportunity and expectation in an industry that loves anniversaries.
Signal One: The Kenissi Movement Reveals Long-Term Planning
At ONLY Watch 2023, Tudor unveiled a unique 18K solid yellow gold interpretation of a Tudor classic, the ‘Big Block’ chronograph, housing an entirely new in-house Kenissi-manufactured calibre MT59XX. This wasn't charity auction theater; it represented years of development toward technical independence. The gear-train bridge reveals an intriguing detail: the Kenissi signature, which marks this movement as a product of Tudor's in-house manufacturing arm. These engravings distinguish development-phase calibres from standard production pieces, offering collectors a glimpse into Tudor's prototyping process. Yet the notable details extend well beyond these markings.
The MT59XX maintains Tudor's established movement architecture, anchoring its silicon balance spring and variable inertia oscillator beneath a traversing bridge secured at both ends. Performance specifications align with Tudor's manufacturing standards—a practical 70-hour power reserve ensures weekend reliability, while the automatic calibre maintains a -2/+4 seconds daily tolerance when tested on the fully assembled watch.
Finishing touches reflect the aesthetic language found throughout Tudor's Manufacture Calibre range. The tungsten monobloc rotor features openwork construction with satin-brushed surfaces and sand-blasted accents, while the bridges and mainplate showcase alternating treatments—sand-blasted sections meet polished surfaces alongside laser-applied decorative elements, creating the visual refinement expected from contemporary in-house movements. Below is the 18K yellow gold Tudor Big Block for the ONLY Watch Auction in 2023.
All current Tudor chronographs—Black Bay Chrono, Pelagos FXD Chrono variants—rely on the calibre MT5813, fundamentally based on Breitling's B01 architecture. A proprietary column-wheel chronograph movement would complete Tudor's manufacturing autonomy and provide the foundation for an entirely new generation of timing instruments.
The original Big Block references from the 1970s, particularly the 94200 and 94300 with cream "Homeplate" dials, command significant premiums in vintage markets. A contemporary Big Block at 41-42 mm, housing the Kenissi movement with silicon hairspring, extended power reserve, and METAS certification, would serve as Tudor's centennial flagship while demonstrating serious technical capability.
Signal Two: METAS Certification Rollout Follows Deliberate Strategy
Watches and Wonders 2025 appeared incremental: Pelagos Ultra with a 1,000-meter depth rating, a Black Bay 68 in vintage-correct proportions, a burgundy Black Bay 58 with METAS certification, and an opaline dial Black Bay Pro. The Black Bay 58 Burgundy, with METAS-certified MT5400 movement and a refined five-link bracelet, provided clear evidence of systematic technical upgrading. This watch references a 1960s prototype burgundy Submariner ref. 79190, which never reached production, demonstrates Tudor's sophisticated archival approach—purposeful excavation rather than mere nostalgia. With the burgundy already carrying Master Chronometer designation, extending METAS certification to classic black dial and popular blue variants would complete the technical evolution of Tudor's most commercially successful modern collection. These wouldn't be limited editions—they would represent baseline specifications across the Black Bay 58 line.
Signal Three: The 1926 Collection Needs Identity—And Gets It
The Tudor 1926 Luna moonphase, released in September 2025, signals that Tudor recognizes that this dress watch line requires elevation beyond basic date functions. Currently lacking the distinct identity that characterizes Tudor’s centennial narrative. We’d say we should expect precious-metal variants, refined dial work, and complications that establish the 1926 as a legitimate dress watch proposition rather than an entry-level placeholder. The brand's relationship with Rolex creates both capability and constraint; Tudor must leverage shared manufacturing resources while establishing aesthetic distance. The snowflake hands, fabric straps, willingness to experiment with bronze and silver—these choices differentiate while maintaining family connection.
What Watches and Wonders 2026 Will Likely Bring
A modern Big Block chronograph with the Kenissi movement as a hero release, sized between 41 and 42mm with METAS certification. METAS upgrades across remaining Black Bay 58 variants, completing technical standardization. An expanded 1926 Collection with precious metals and other complications or elaborate dial finishes. Heritage-inspired pieces that capture early Tudor dive watch proportions without risking Submariner comparison. Monte Carlo chronograph reinterpretation providing a colorful alternative outside Black Bay territory. Limited editions in precious metals honoring historical references.
What Won't Appear
Faithful vintage reissues inviting unfavorable Rolex comparison. Artificial scarcity through limited steel production—availability remains a strategic advantage. Compromised technical specifications for nostalgia—METAS certification now represents the baseline. Products abandoning snowflake hands and vintage-inspired proportions. Dress watches directly competing with Datejust or Day-Date. Pricing that undermines accessibility advantage.
Tudor's centennial arrives as speculative frenzy subsides, favoring genuine value. After a decade proving execution capability, the brand has earned the right to celebrate on its own terms.
