The latest watch industry figures paint a picture more of confirmation than revelation. Rolex continues to lead the watch industry, exceeding CHF 10 billion in estimated sales. Its revenues match the combined totals of the next five largest brands, including Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Omega—ranked in order of importance.
Weekend Reads: Manufacture Visits, Greubel Forsey, and Audemars Piguet's Identity Crisis
Each week at WCL delivers editorial coverage across the spectrum of serious watch collecting—from industry analysis and new release evaluation to archival perspectives and manufacture insights. Weekend Reads curates the week's most substantial pieces: the editorials that reward deeper engagement and merit your weekend reading time. Five pieces worth your attention:
From the Editor: Audemars Piguet's 22-Watch Overload—Quantity Over Vision, One Stands Apart
Yesterday, Audemars Piguet announced 22 new watches at the AP Social Club in Le Brassus. When a manufacture releases this many watches in a single presentation, the question isn't celebration, it's evaluation. Which of these actually matter?
Introducing: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 43mm—Bleu Nuit Ceramic and Smoked Green Titanium
Two new AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs expand the 43mm line through material combinations that privilege ceramic and titanium over precious metals. These additions demonstrate Audemars Piguet's continued investment in the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph as a platform for developing technical materials.
Introducing: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver—Three New Colorways
The Royal Oak Offshore Diver receives a chromatic refresh across three stainless steel references that underscore the collection's position as Le Brassus's most technically capable dive instrument. Since its 2010 debut and subsequent additions to the model, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver has distinguished itself through an internal rotating bezel operated via a dedicated crown at 10 o'clock.
Introducing: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38mm In-House Calibre
Audemars Piguet's 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph receives its most meaningful update with the new in-house calibre 6401, the Manufacture's first compact in-house chronograph movement. This development addresses a technical gap that persisted even after the 41mm variant adopted Calibre 4401 in 2022.
Introducing: Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour—A Brand New Collection
Audemars Piguet's Neo Frame Jumping Hour reference 15245OR.OO.A206VE.01 inaugurates an entirely new collection that decisively breaks from the octagonal architecture that dominates the Manufacture's contemporary catalog.
Introducing: Audemars Piguet 150 Heritage Pocket Watch—Le Brassus Returns to Its Ultra-Complication Roots
Continuing with the releases for its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has returned to the format that preceded the wristwatch yet remains central to the Manufacture's most ambitious technical expressions. The Audemars Piguet 150 Heritage Ultra-Complication Universal Calendar pocket watch, reference 75150PT.OO.01, in platinum, stands as a direct descendant of Le Brassus’s legendary ultra-complications: the 1899 L’Universelle and the 1921 La Grosse Pièce, pieces that established the brand's mastery of astronomical complications and grande sonnerie mechanisms, and which are in the Audemars Piguet Musée Atelier.
Weekend Reads: Titanium, Independents, and Collecting Philosophy
Sunday mornings offer the perfect opportunity to explore the deeper questions of watch collecting without the week's distractions. This weekend, I'm recommending five essential editorials that collectively map a path through the most important considerations in watch collecting—from overlooked materials science overlooked by traditional collectors to market opportunities hiding in plain sight.
Insider: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date
The Royal Oak Concept collection has always represented Audemars Piguet's most uninhibited creative expression—a laboratory for horological experimentation where traditional constraints are willingly abandoned. With the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date reference 26650TI.OO.D013CA.01, launched in 2023, AP achieved something genuinely remarkable
Perspective: The Best 5 Watches with Brown Dials Perfect for Thanksgiving
Brown dial watches offer sophisticated versatility, making them ideal Thanksgiving companions. Whether gathering with family or reflecting on the year's achievements, these five timepieces capture autumn's warmth while transcending seasonal trends. Each represents exceptional craftsmanship in precious metals that will be treasured for generations—watches worth being genuinely thankful for.
From the Editor: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5
In the world of haute horlogerie, certain moments transcend mere product launches to become defining statements of a manufacture's prowess, and this is precisely what Audemars Piguet has done here. Perhaps these are the first steps for the brand to return to its remarkable origins and history. The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 ref. 26545XT.OO.1240XT.01 represents precisely such a moment.
News: Audemars Piguet 'The Watch - Stories and Savoir Faire'. A Nearly 600-Page Book for its 150th Anniversary.
To commemorate its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has partnered with prestigious publisher Flammarion to unveil The Watch – Stories and Savoir Faire. This extraordinary, nearly 600-page book delves into the captivating world of mechanical timepieces and the art of haute horlogerie.
News: Audemars Piguet Headlines Eleven New Brands Joining Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026
The premier annual celebration of haute horlogerie is set to reach new heights in 2026, with the addition of eleven distinguished brands led by Audemars Piguet, the venerable Le Brassus manufacture. Audemars Piguet participated in the SIHH Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie—preceding event to Watches & Wonders—up until 2019.
Experience: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 'Pride of Argentina'. A Timeless Tribute, a July 9th Celebration.
On this momentous July 9th, as Argentina celebrates 209 years of independence, we honor not just the nation's freedom from Spanish rule but also the remarkable timepiece that captured this historic milestone in horological form.
From the Editor: Ginny Wright Departs Audemars Piguet North America. Growing Pains or Strategic Reset?
The sudden removal of Ginny Wright from her post as CEO of Audemars Piguet North America sheds some light on what could be some growing pains or strategic reset at Audemars Piguet North America since the departure of François-Henry Bennahmias from the region in 2013; and the very calculated appointment of Ilaria Resta as the new CEO of Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus as of January 2024.
Insider: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 1017 ALYX 9SM. A 76-piece Limited Edition.
The minimalistic all 18K white gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 1017 ALYX 9SM ref. 26238BC.OO.2000BC.01 was released at the end of 2023 as the result of a collaboration between AP and designer Matthew Williams. At the time, four watches and a unique piece —a two-tone Royal Oak Chrono 41 mm ref. Ref. 26240SA.OO.1320SA.01— were released under the 1017 ALYX 9SM collaboration label
From the Editor: Yoon Ahn Founder of Ambush Leaks AP Royal Oak Extra-Thin 'Jumbo' X KAWS
As I was going through my Instagram this morning, I found a repost from KAWS of an image posted by Yoon Ahn the founder of fashion brand Ambush Design Company. The picture shows what appears to be a special Royal Oak Extra-Thin ‘Jumbo’ ref. 16202BA or 16202OR in collaboration with KAWS.
If I had any respect left for Audemars Piguet, now it is gone.
From the Editor: My Honest Thoughts on the Audemars Piguet X KAWS Tourbillon 'Companion'
First of all, I won’t continue to beat a dead horse with this editorial while I express my honest thoughts on the just released Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon 'Companion' X KAWS. By now, my perspective on Audemars Piguet as a watch brand and on the course it has taken in the last three years has not changed. Where I feel the brand is today is something I never expected after becoming a hardcore lover of all things AP and a real AP collector in 1998.
Introducing: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon 'Companion' X KAWS
Continuing with their recent collaborations and their involvement with artists and celebrities, Audemars Piguet presents a new watch in collaboration with the artist KAWS. The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon 'Companion' X KAWS reference 26656TI.GG.D019VE.01 reinforces Audemars Piguet’s curiosity and ongoing dialogue with the cultural world.
