When Audemars Piguet announced at the end of September last year that it would return to Watches and Wonders after a six-year absence—AP pulled out when SIHH was replaced by Watches and Wonders—, the watch world took notice. The Le Brassus manufacture famously departed SIHH in 2019 alongside Richard Mille, declaring its intention to forge direct relationships with collectors through boutique-only distribution and private events.

Now, under CEO Ilaria Resta—rumors last year had hinted at her departure, but she’s still there—and fresh off its 150th anniversary celebrations, Audemars Piguet rejoins Watches and Wonders this next April 14-20, 2026. The question facing collectors and industry observers alike is straightforward: what will Audemars Piguet unveil at its highly anticipated return? How will they conduct their presentations? Will they reinvent themselves?

The timing carries significance beyond mere logistics. AP's 2025 was dominated by perpetual calendar innovation—specifically the introduction of Calibre 7138, which revolutionized calendar adjustment by consolidating all functions into a crown-controlled setting. This departure from traditional push-piece correction, which took five years of development, earned the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in sand gold the Iconic Watch Prize at the 2025 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.

Expansion of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar focus suggests AP may continue expanding the use of Calibre 7138 across additional case materials and configurations. The 2025 launch included Royal Oak variations in stainless steel and sand gold, as well as the Code 11.59 in white gold. However, conspicuously absent were white gold, rose gold, platinum, or ceramic models.

Watches and Wonders would provide the ideal platform for introducing these variations, particularly given the fair's April timing allows AP to dominate spring coverage after seeding the market with initial references throughout 2025. The pattern mirrors how major manufactures leverage Geneva to expand successful complications across their portfolios rather than introducing entirely new mechanisms.

More Material Innovation

Material innovation represents another probable avenue. Audemars Piguet pioneered luxury sports watches in stainless steel with the 1972 Royal Oak, but the manufacture's material innovation extends far beyond that singular achievement. The Le Brassus workshop has consistently introduced materials unprecedented in haute horlogerie: Tantalum for the Royal Oak in 1986; black PVD-treated stainless steel for the Royal Oak Offshore End of Days ref. 25770SN in 1999; Alacrite 602—a cobalt-based, non-magnetic stainless steel super-alloy—for the 2002 Royal Oak Concept.

That same year, rubber-clad gold and stainless steel bezels debuted on the Royal Oak Offshore Rubber Clad ref. 25940. Carbon fiber arrived in 2004 for the bezel and crown guards of the Royal Oak Offshore 'Juan Pablo Montoya' ref. 26030.

Material experimentation accelerated in 2007 with the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team ref. 26062FS, a 1,300-piece limited edition commemorating the 32nd America's Cup—the first forged carbon case in watchmaking history. Three years later, AP introduced the first use of Cermet in the Royal Oak Offshore Jarno Trulli, a specialized ceramic-metal composite, continuing its pattern of material leadership that now spans five decades. And in 2021, the first use of BMG—Bulk Metallic Glass—in the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin ref. 15202XT ‘ONLY Watch Auction’ Unique Piece.

Audemars Piguet's 2025 anniversary pieces demonstrated sophisticated material experimentation: titanium combined with Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) for the limited-edition openworked perpetual calendar, and a new blue ceramic—inspired by the original Royal Oak's "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" dial shade—for the Double Balance Openworked ref. 15416CD.OO.1225CD.01 and continued expansion of sand gold applications. The titanium-BMG combination particularly intrigued collectors for its weight reduction and scratch resistance—precisely the attributes that serve complicated watches best. Here’s the most complete history of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.

Therefore, we expect AP to push these material boundaries further at Watches & Wonders, potentially introducing more ceramic perpetual calendars or expanding BMG applications beyond limited editions into series production. I even think that perhaps tantalum might finally make a come back.

The Code 11.59 & The Royal Oak Offshore

Oh, the Code 11.59. Following its 2019 release, the collection warrants close attention. Audemars Piguet finally introduced stainless steel Code 11.59 references in 2025, addressing long-standing criticism of the collection's precious-metal-only focus and of the watch being used as a forced gateway purchase for anyone wanting to buy a Royal Oak. Maybe AP will finally recognize that the collection needs to be broadened or simply folded after all. Maybe Watches & Wonders could offer additional stainless steel versions of the collection, perhaps with new complications or distinctive dials.

The Royal Oak Offshore is a slow-dying horse that once successfully lured customers seeking something fresher and sportier than the Royal Oak. The collection remains conspicuously overdue for a comprehensive renewal, and the release of the failing and defective in-house Calibre 4401 hasn’t helped.

While Audemars Piguet released a few 30th-anniversary variations in 2023-2024 and occasional limited editions, the collection hasn't received the systematic attention as the Royal Oak and Code 11.59. Long gone are the days of the more wearable 42 mm Royal Oak Offshores, the “Pride” country-focused limited editions, and the racing-inspired Offshores.

Watches and Wonders will provide the visibility Audemars Piguet needs to reintroduce the Royal Oak Offshore to contemporary collectors who may dismiss it as dated or excessively large. We expect refreshed proportions, contemporary materials, and movement updates that acknowledge how sports watch preferences have evolved since the Offshore's 1993 debut. Here’s the most extensive and comprehensive guide to the Royal Oak Offshore since its launch.

Is This The Turning Point?

From an industry perspective, Audemars Piguet's return signals something beyond a few new product launches. It signals reinvention, and we are all hoping for it. Hopefully, their return marks the final days of Spider-Man, KAWS, and Black Panther Royal Oak Concept watches.

The brand initially withdrew from SIHH, citing that collective trade shows served no strategic purpose. Yet all they did over the last six years was host ‘influencer’ events and associate with celebrities. Six years later, returning acknowledges that isolation proved less advantageous than engagement.

Watches and Wonders has evolved into an indispensable gathering point where Holy Trinity brands now exhibit together, independents gain visibility, and collectors access the year's most significant releases. AP's presence completes the triumvirate alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin—a symbolic reunification that elevates the fair's prestige while acknowledging market realities. But is AP ready to play nicely in the sandbox?

The April 14-20 dates arrive perfectly timed to dominate spring editorial coverage and influence fall purchase decisions. Whatever Audemars Piguet unveils, expect refinement of existing innovations rather than revolutionary complications or more dial variations. We expect groundbreaking releases that are readily accessible and purchasable. There’s no need for more RD Royal Oak watches priced above CHF 250,000.

For now, we will just have to wait and see in a few months.