In the world of haute horlogerie, certain moments transcend mere product launches to become defining statements of a manufacture's prowess, and this is precisely what Audemars Piguet has done here. Perhaps these are the first steps for the brand to return to its remarkable origins and history. The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 ref. 26545XT.OO.1240XT.01 represents precisely such a moment. Created to commemorate Audemars Piguet's 150th anniversary, this extraordinary timepiece doesn't simply celebrate history; it rewrites the future of chronograph complications.
Making History: Is this the Return of AP to its Origins?
At first glance, the audacity of this creation becomes immediately apparent. Audemars Piguet has achieved what many considered impossible: housing an automatic flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon within the iconic 39 mm "Jumbo" case measuring a mere 8.1 mm in thickness. To put this in perspective, most chronographs with similar complications typically exceed 12 mm in thickness. The manufacture has essentially defied the laws of traditional watchmaking, delivering a complex haute horlogerie piece with the proportions of a dress watch.
For Audemars Piguet to achieve this level of technical sophistication while maintaining the proportions of the beloved "Jumbo" format represents nothing less than a triumph of engineering and design. This watch doesn't scream for attention with oversized proportions or excessive decoration. Instead, it commands respect through the quiet confidence of technical mastery and refined aesthetics—qualities that define true haute horlogerie.
Advanced Materials Philosophy: The AP Secret
Audemars Piguet has masterfully employed advanced materials to achieve this engineering feat. The 39 mm case is crafted from lightweight titanium, while the bezel, caseback, push-pieces, and crown are fashioned from bulk metallic glass (BMG). This revolutionary material, which Audemars Piguet has been using for over four years, is an amorphous metal alloy that offers exceptional durability and a distinctive, lustrous appearance. This marriage of titanium and BMG creates a timepiece that feels remarkably light on the wrist while maintaining the robust presence expected of a Royal Oak. The water resistance of 20 meters confirms that this is a watch designed for everything, including casual surface swimming.
The blue ‘Petite Tapisserie’ dial represents the perfect canvas for this horological masterpiece. The signature textured pattern catches light with a hypnotic effect, while matching chronograph counters maintain the aesthetic harmony that has defined the Royal Oak since Gérald Genta's original 1972 design. The 18-carat white gold luminescent hands and hour markers provide exceptional legibility, while the silver-grey-toned inner bezel adds depth and dimension. A particularly touching detail is the cursive ‘Audemars Piguet’ at 12 o'clock, inspired by historical documents—a subtle nod to the manufacture's rich heritage.
The integrated titanium bracelet, featuring BMG links, exemplifies Audemars Piguet's commitment to cohesive design. Each link flows seamlessly into the next, wrapping the wrist with surprising comfort given the advanced materials employed. The AP folding clasp ensures security while maintaining the sleek profile that makes this watch equally at home with a business suit or more casual weekend attire.
New Calibre 8100: A Technical Masterclass
The revolutionary Calibre 8100 lies at the heart of this technical masterpiece. This all-new movement introduces a flyback chronograph with a patented reset mechanism that redefines ergonomics and precision. The vertical clutch and column wheel construction ensures seamless functionality, while the symmetrical counters at 3 and 9 o'clock provide perfect visual balance. With 44 jewels, 379 components, and a generous 72-hour power reserve beating at 21,600 vph, the Calibre 8100 represents a new standard in chronograph energy and efficiency. The 4 mm thick movement—visible through the sapphire case back—is a visual symphony of technical sophistication that collectors will find themselves admiring for hours. This movement also features the now commonly used peripheral oscillating weight by AP.
My Final Thoughts
Limited to just 150 pieces—one for each year of Audemars Piguet's history—the RD#5 designation carries significant weight within the manufacture's research and development nomenclature. This is not merely a commemorative piece but a genuine advancement in watchmaking that will influence future complications for years to come. The simple tagline ‘Simple is complicated’ perfectly encapsulates the philosophy behind this creation: achieving apparent simplicity while housing extraordinary complexity.
What makes this timepiece particularly compelling for serious collectors is its dual nature. On one hand, it maintains the iconic Royal Oak DNA that has made the collection a cornerstone of modern luxury watchmaking. The octagonal bezel, featuring eight hexagonal screws, the integrated bracelet, and the ‘Tapisserie’ dial—all elements that define the Royal Oak aesthetic—remain intact. Yet beneath this familiar exterior beats a revolutionary heart that pushes the boundaries of what's mechanically possible in a sub-9 mm case thickness.
As Audemars Piguet enters its next 150 years, the Royal Oak Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 stands as a powerful statement of intent. It demonstrates that innovation and tradition need not be opposing forces, but can instead work in harmony to create timepieces that honor the past while boldly embracing the future. Hopefully, it marks the beginning of a return to their origins.
For the 150 collectors fortunate enough to secure one of these extraordinary pieces, they're not simply acquiring a watch; they're claiming a piece of horological history that redefines what's possible when complication meets elegance, and a watch that delivers for those true AP enthusiasts, not just those seeking to impress. Now, as far as pricing, this is a steep slope, but given the current state of the watch market, I’m not surprised these 150 pieces will sell very quickly.
Sticker Price CHF 260,000—approx USD 324,000. For more information on Audemars Piguet, click here.
