Few manufactures embody the relentless pursuit of precision like Jaeger-LeCoultre, the watchmaker of watchmakers. Their latest trio of Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 timepieces stands as a testament to over 190 years of accumulated expertise, where technical innovation meets aesthetic refinement.
Since Antoine LeCoultre established his workshop in the Vallée de Joux in 1833, precision has been more than a goal—it has been an obsession. This unwavering commitment to accuracy, evident in every calibre design, case construction, and dial decoration, continues to inspire each generation of watchmakers at La Grande Maison. The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 exemplifies this philosophy, representing the pinnacle of mechanical sophistication wrapped in understated elegance, with three new watches: one in pink gold and two in platinum.
The Heart of Innovation: Calibre 985
At the core of these exceptional timepieces beats the Calibre 985, a movement that required years of research and development to perfect. Comprising an impressive 431 components, this automatic calibre seamlessly integrates a perpetual calendar with a moon phase display alongside the mesmerizing dance of a cylindrical flying tourbillon, composed of 83 parts and weighing a total of 0.386 grams.
The choice of a cylindrical hairspring is particularly noteworthy. Originally invented in 1776 and largely forgotten until the 21st century, this helical form offers enhanced isochronic performance. Its unique construction, with ends that coil inwards, ensures concentric beating in every position, regardless of amplitude or power reserve—a crucial advancement for a movement of this complexity.
Perhaps most intriguing is the arc-shaped 20-second scale positioned below the tourbillon aperture, where three blue hands mounted on the tourbillon cage measure 20-second intervals as the mechanism completes its 60-second rotation—a brilliant fusion of precision timekeeping and visual spectacle.
Three Expressions: Platinum and Pink Gold
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the Calibre 985 in three distinct variations, featuring a 42 mm diameter case and a thickness of 13.27 mm, each offering a unique aesthetic interpretation. Two models housed in platinum cases feature striking blue dials that create a compelling contrast with the cool metal tones. The first showcases a polished bezel that enhances the dial's rich blue hue, while the second elevates luxury to new heights with 72 baguette-cut diamonds totaling approximately 3.4 carats—the result of 15 meticulous hours of gem-setting work.
The Pink Gold reference is cased in 18k pink gold. This model pairs the warm metal with a sophisticated brown dial, creating a harmonious color combination that exudes refined elegance.
Technical Mastery Meets Visual Poetry
The signature two-level dial construction demonstrates Jaeger-LeCoultre's attention to both form and function. The area surrounding the tourbillon sits below the main dial plane, creating visual depth while serving technical purposes. Micro-blasted minute tracks, opaline sub-dials that shift color in changing light, and laser-engraved three-dimensional calendar indications showcase the manufacture's commitment to detail.
The Movement
The sapphire crystal case back reveals the exceptional finishing that defines haute horlogerie: blued screws, sunrayed Côtes de Genève, intricate snailing, and hand-beveling. The 22K rose gold winding rotor bears sunray engraving and a reproduction of the gold medal awarded to Antoine LeCoultre at the 1851 Great Exhibition—a fitting tribute to the founder's legacy of precision.
Summary & Pricing
What makes this Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 simply amazing is how Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to push the boundaries of watchmaking without compromising on timeless classical aesthetics. Sophisticated in design and complex in structure, the Master Grande Tradition case consists of more than 80 parts. With screwed in lugs and a mix of polished, brushed, and micro-blasted surfaces, the case is reserved for only the Maison’s most complex calibres.
Sticker Price Upon Request. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
