The independent Geneva manufacture unveils a captivating addition to their acclaimed One & Two Openworked collection. Few complications command as much respect as the tourbillon, and only a handful manage to reinvent this centuries-old complication with bold aesthetic vision. Enter Speake-Marin's latest masterpiece: the Openworked Tourbillon Purple Hour, just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2025.
Founded in 2002 by British watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin, who created his namesake brand, the brand has been led by CEO Christelle Rosnoblet since 2012. Speake-Marin consistently pushes boundaries while respecting traditions, and is currently undergoing a revival period following the release of the Ripples model.
This new Openworked Tourbillon Purple Hour draws inspiration from the "purple hour"—that magical twilight moment when the sky transforms into mesmerizing shades of violet and blue. Speake Marin has captured this ethereal beauty in horological form, with a vivid purple dial that shifts and dances as light plays across its surface. The regal hue creates what the manufacture describes as a "mysterious, regal and almost mystical atmosphere," constantly metamorphosing under different lighting conditions while celebrating the artistry of mechanical timekeeping.
Things to Know About the Watch
At the heart of this Grade 5 titanium case—available in 38 mm or 42 mm—beats the manufacture's in-house SMA05 calibre. Developed by Le Cercle Des Horlogers, this automatic movement delivers an impressive 72-hour power reserve. The star is the flying tourbillon at the distinctive 1:30 position—a signature Speake Marin placement. Unlike traditional tourbillons, the flying variant is supported at only one point, requiring exceptional precision. The 62-component cage weighing just 0.56 grams performs its hypnotic dance beneath a rhodium-plated bridge shaped like the brand's iconic topping tool.
The SMA05 automatic movement beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and delivers an impressive 72-hour power reserve from its single mainspring barrel. Following Speake-Marin's design philosophy, the rhodium-finished tungsten micro-rotor is seamlessly incorporated within the mechanism—visible from the front—, contributing to the movement's slim profile and enabling a notably thin case construction.
The solid case back, secured by eight screws, incorporates a sapphire crystal that reveals the movement's sophisticated finishing. Black rhodium-plated bridges showcase precise beveled edges and feature traditional Côtes de Genève decoration with 1.5mm striping. These elements frame a central bridge finished in black PVD coating, which accentuates the mesmerizing interplay of the movement's rotating components. An additional decorative element—a second topping tool—is strategically positioned above the mainspring barrel, visible through the exhibition caseback.
The ‘Piccadilly’ case design—refined by designer Eric Giroud—features a flat, brushed titanium middle case behind a polished domed bezel and is available in either 38 mm or 42 mm in diameter.
The dial features a three-dimensional architecture with a satin-finished, two-layer plate and a positive purple PVD coating. Bevelled edges display a glossy effect, enhancing the color's luminosity, while microbeaded finishes add textural depth. The power reserve indicator at 7:30 provides practical functionality, alerting when the 72-hour reserve nears depletion.
The purple calf leather strap, featuring an embossed denim motif and a titanium clasp, completes the aesthetic. For serious watch collectors, this limited-production timepiece represents exceptional value in manufacture tourbillons and will be available starting in November 2025.
Sticker Price CHF 69,900—approx. USD 86,700—for the 42 mm model and CHF 69,400—approx USD 86,100—for the 38 mm model. More info on Speake-Marin here.
