Watchmaking's biggest night proves that sometimes less really is more, as a single-hand watch takes center stage in Geneva. In a surprising departure from recent years' trend toward hyper-complication, the jury of the 25th Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève handed its most prestigious honor—the coveted Aiguille d'Or—to arguably the simplest watch in the room. The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025, a watch displaying time with just one hand, captured the grand prize at the ceremony held today, November 13th, at Geneva's Bâtiment des Forces Motrices.

"It looks simple, but it embodies one of the greatest challenges of watchmaking: simplicity," the jury noted in their citation. The win feels particularly poignant as a tribute from the industry to Abraham-Louis Breguet's 1796 original Souscription design—reborn as a modern wrist watch with a white enamel dial and a single blued hand—represents both heritage and renewal.

The shift away from six-figure ultra-complications marks a philosophical moment for the GPHG. Following IWC's extraordinarily complex Portugieser Eternal Calendar's win of the Aiguille d'Or in 2024, this year's choice celebrates the purity of essential watchmaking.

Beyond the headline prize, the 2025 awards showcased impressive breadth across categories. Gérald Genta's Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal claimed the Ladies' prize with its audacious flame-hued dial surrounded by 137 individually set fire opals—proving that restraint wasn't the only theme of the evening. Chopard secured Ladies' Complication honors with the Imperiale Four Seasons, featuring a rotating disc completing a full revolution over 365 days.

In the Horological Revelation category, independent watchmaker Anton Suhanov's St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock demonstrated that minimalist modernism can coexist with traditional Russian craftsmanship. The piece remains mysteriously vertical without visible support—a technical feat wrapped in conceptual elegance.

The accessible end of the spectrum also received recognition. M.A.D.Editions' M.A.D.2 Green took the "Petite Aiguille" prize for watches priced between CHF 3,000 and CHF 10,000. At the same time, Dennison's Natural Stone Tiger Eye won the Challenge Prize for pieces under CHF 3,000—proving exceptional watchmaking transcends price points.

Raymond Loretan, GPHG president, framed the ceremony's significance: "Watchmaking represents an alliance of art and industry, mechanics and poetry, mystery, mastery of the microscopic and the pursuit of the infinite. Despite the current difficulties, it displays remarkable vitality."

The jury also awarded Alain Dominique Perrin—former President of Richemont and founder of Fondation Cartier—with the Special Jury Prize, honoring his decades of advancing haute horlogerie and contemporary art.

The 90 nominated timepieces, including the 19 winners, are on display at the Geneva Musée d'Art et d'Histoire until November 16, 2025. The award-winning models will then be presented from November 19 to November 23 as part of Dubai Watch Week.

2025 PRIZE LIST
“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix : Breguet, Classique Souscription 2025
Chronometry Prize: Zenith, G.F.J. Calibre 135
Horological Revelation Prize: Anton Suhanov, St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock
Audacity Prize: Fam Al Hut, Möbius
Iconic Watch Prize: Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Mechanical Exception Watch Prize: Greubel Forsey, Nano Foudroyante
Chronograph Watch Prize: Angelus, Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold
Tourbillon Watch Prize: Bvlgari, Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Sports Watch Prize: Chopard, Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF
Men’s Complication Watch Prize: Bovet 1822, Récital 30
Men’s Watch Prize: Urban Jürgensen, UJ-2: Double wheel natural escapement
Time Only Watch Prize: Daniel Roth, Extra Plat Rose Gold
Jewellery Watch Prize: Dior Montres, La D de Dior Buisson Couture
Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Voutilainen, 28GML SOUYOU
Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: Chopard, Imperiale Four Seasons
Ladies’ Watch Prize: gérald genta, Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
“Petite Aiguille” Watch Prize: M.A.D. Editions, M.A.D.2 Green
Challenge Watch Prize: Dennison, Natural Stone Tiger Eye In Gold
Mechanical Clock Prize: L’Épée 1839, Albatross L’Épée 1839 X MB&F
Special Jury Prize: Alain Dominique Perrin