News: Arnold & Son Presents the TB Victory Special Limited Edition. A Tribute to Britain's National Museum of the Royal Navy in a Unique Piece.

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A Tribute to the National Museum of the Royal Navy: Arnold & Son Announces Special Limited Edition of the TB Victory Britain’s National Museum of the Royal Navy comprises five museums that document the part played by the Royal Navy in the shaping of the nation and of the modern world. One of those Museums is HMS Victory, the world's most famous warship, which had her finest hour as Lord Nelson's flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. With this special, one-piece edition of the TB Victory, Arnold & Son pays a special tribute to one of the nation’s most valued institutions. Some 250 years ago, John Arnold and his son, John Roger, played a central role in developing the chronometers that enabled 18th-century navigators to determine longitude at sea and helped establish the Royal Navy as the dominant force on the world’s oceans. Today, the company looks back with pride on that contribution. As Philippe Boven of Arnold & Son explains: “We are keenly aware of the close links between our company and the Royal Navy, and are presenting this special edition of the TB Victory to the National Museum as an expression of our respect and admiration for the Museum which keeps that unique heritage alive.” His sentiments are mirrored by those of Dr. Dominic Tweddle, Director-General of the National Museum of the Royal Navy: “I am delighted and honored to accept this unique timepiece from Arnold & Son on behalf of the Museum. It is an acknowledgement, exquisitely executed, of the significant role that HMS Victory has played in a long and glorious history.”

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The TB Victory timepiece has a distinctive off-centered subdial for the time of day, one of the unmistakable design cues of the Instrument Collection. Central to the cream colored dial is the timepiece’s complication: a central true beat —TB— seconds. A rarely found complication these days, the true beat seconds —or dead beat seconds— stands for superlative accuracy and was an invaluable instrument for marine navigators. The combination of a central true beat seconds with an automatic winding system calls for enormous technical expertise. This is made possible by an internationally patented system and calls for parts accurate to a micron, or one-thousandth of a millimeter. The key components are produced using state-of-the-art LIGA —lithography, electroplating and molding— manufacturing technology. The TB Victory is powered by the A&S6103 calibre, the first automatic movement with an integrated true beat system to be developed, designed and manufactured entirely at Arnold & Son’s workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The exquisite Haute Horlogerie finishing includes manually chamfered bridges and polished edges, fine circular graining and 'Côtes de Genève rayonnantes', a brushed and skeletonised rotor, and blued screws. This unique edition of the TB Victory will be restricted to the single timepiece presented to the National Museum of the Royal Navy.

For more info on Arnold & Son click here.

Technical Specifications of the Arnold & Son TB Victory

Calibre: A&S6103
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, self-winding, ceramic ball bearing, 30 jewels, diameter 30.4 mm, thickness 7.79 mm, power reserve 50 h, 28,800 vibrations/h, stop seconds
Functions: hours, minutes, true beat seconds
Movement decoration: rhodium treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered
bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, brushed and skeletonised rotor, blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads.
Dial: cream, 22-carat solid gold appliqué.
Case: 18-carat rose gold, diameter 44 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back see-through sapphire with the National Museum logo executed in metallic palladium, water-resistant to 30 meters.
Strap: Hand-stitched brown alligator leather.
Special edition: Limited No. 1/1
Reference: 1ARAP.I01A.C120P

Posted on February 28, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Arnold and Son and tagged Arnold & Son TB Victory Limited Edition A&S6103 calibre Arnold & Son ref. 1ARAP.I01A.C120P 2014.

Insider: Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle. Transforming AK-47s Into Timepieces and Jewelry for Goodwill.

Fonderie 47 was founded in 2009 by Peter Thum with the goal of reducing the number of destabilizing assault weapons in Africa. Thum realized the enormous problem these weapons created, having met boys and young men armed with assault rifles, and the victims of these weapons, while developing clean water projects in east Africa. There are millions of assault weapons in Africa. A large majority of these are AK47 variants. In Africa, assault rifles cost about 70% less than anywhere else in the world. While prices of AK47s have generally risen worldwide over the last three decades, they have fallen in Africa due to the sheer number of weapons and ease of availability. Thum decided to transform these implements of devastation into something as removed from them and as positive as possible, i.e. exclusive objects that would inspire change and fund the destruction of weapons. The mission to create a high-end mechanical watch incorporating metal from a destroyed AK47 began even before Fonderie 47 was founded, because it quickly became clear that the development and production of a completely original complicated haute horlogerie timepiece would take many years. Fonderie 47 has also worked with some of the world’s best designers and jewelers to create artistic pieces made from AK47 steel, precious metals and jewels. Working with the Nobel Prize winning NGO Mines Advisory Group, to date Fonderie 47 has funded the destruction of over 30,000 assault rifles in war zones in Africa. The name of this manufacture in the Vallée de Joux comes from the French word 'fonderie' —foundry for melting and casting metal— and '47' for AK47. Below, we have included the amazing video produced by Fonderie 47 that explains the principles and vision behind this amazing watch project.

Inversion Principle is a completely original timepiece, designed by Adrian Glessing and developed and produced by David Candaux —the man behind the Badollet Ivresse— and his team at Du Val Des Bois exclusively for Fonderie 47. Revenues from the sale of each timepiece will be used to fund the destruction of one thousand assault weapons in Africa, creating a safer environment for aid and development. This is a strategy that Peter Thum already implemented successfully in creating Ethos Water to fund clean water projects in Africa and around the world. While Inversion Principle is first and foremost a very exclusive haute horlogerie timepiece, subtle elements and mechanisms discreetly feature key attributes of the AK47. Each timepiece incorporates a plate on the back made from the transformed steel of a destroyed assault weapon.

Inversion Principle is a timepiece with a central three-minute flying tourbillon, instantaneous jumping hours with quick-set pusher, 240° retrograde minutes and lateral and back power reserve indicators. Orbiting on high above the movement, the central 3-minute flying tourbillon dominates the three-dimensional dial and mesmerizes the eye. Three second-hands, equally spaced 120° apart around the tourbillon cage, arc sedately across the seconds-scale above the tourbillon and 'Fonderie 47': 'Sedately' because tourbillon revolves at just 1/3 of the speed of a traditional one-minute tourbillon. While only one second-hand is visible at any time − the other two are hidden under the gold rifle-sight inspired frame set into the sapphire crystal − their positions are revealed by blued screws joining the outer tourbillon cage and inner three-arm hub.

A first, or even a second, glance is unlikely to divulge any obvious similarity between jumping hours, retrograde seconds and an AK47; however, avoiding blatantly obvious connections is the aim. On a more ethereal level however, gun mechanisms snap sharply and precisely into place: As does the instantaneous jumping hour at 12 o'clock as it changes the hour; and the large 240° retrograde seconds hand as it flies back to zero each hour across the bottom of the dial. Each press of the quick-set pusher in the crown advances the jumping hours by one hour.

The long 6-day power reserve has both a lateral indication via a sapphire window set into the left side of the case band and a second indication visible through the display back.

The display back reveals the stunning sunray guilloché pattern radiating out from the ratchet wheel on the calibre F47-001 which is capped by a dark plate of transformed steel from a destroyed AK47. The plate is in the form of the Fonderie 47 brand symbol and rotates as the watch is wound. The serial number of the destroyed weapon the metal is from '56-3701F42', is elegantly hand engraved beside the plate. “A mentor taught me what he thought generated the fundamental values of watchmaking: The eye; the hand; and the heart. These are values that guide my work. A timepiece built around these values generates powerful emotions.” David Candaux —Inversion Principle watchmaker.

The Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces: 10 in 18K white gold and 10 in 18K red gold.

Sticker Price $350,000 USD. For more info on Fonderie 47 click here.

Technical Specifications of the Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle

Limited edition of 20 pieces: 10 in white gold and 10 in red gold. Created by: David Candaux/Du Val Des Bois. Designed by: Adrian Glessing. Place of Manufacture: La Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.

Indications: Jumping hours, 240° retrograde minutes; central seconds on tourbillon cage; lateral power reserve indicator on case band and power reserve indicator on back.

Case and strap

Material: 18k white gold or 18k red gold.

Sapphire crystal traversed by embedded gold bezel bridge framing tourbillon cage.

Lateral sapphire window in case band for power reserve indicator.

Dimensions: 42mm x 14.6mm

Water resistance: 30 meters.

Dial: Translucent glass and sapphire crystal with enameled minutes and seconds.

Strap and clasp: hand stitched alligator strap with gold pin buckle matching case. Brown leather with red gold case or black leather with white gold case.

Movement: Caliber F47-001

Regulator: Central three-minute flying tourbillon.

Tourbillon cage: gold counter weight and curved to follow sapphire crystal.

Jumping hour: thin mechanism —patented.

Retrograde seconds: mechanism with light aluminum arm and precision regulator.

Power reserve: Six days.

Balance frequency: 18,000 vph.

Jewels: 38

Steel plate from transformed AK47 − serial number '56-3701F42' − in form of Fonderie 47 brand symbol on ratchet wheel visible through display back.

Finishing: Sun ray guilloche; hand engraving; hand polished bevels; heat-blued screws and power reserve indicator on back.

Posted on February 28, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Fonderie 47 and tagged Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle Peter Thum Vallée de Joux David Candaux Adrian Glessing.

Insider: Presenting the New MB&F LM1 Legacy Machine No. 1 Xia Hang. Live Pictures and Pricing.

After working for nearly 45 hours without a break —all at peak performance— it’s been a long tiring day and energy levels are low. While it was relatively easy to sit up straight at the start of the day, fatigue has now set in, back languidly bends, head hits lap. ‘Mr. Up’ has become ‘Mr. Down’. But before Mr. Down shuts off completely, an invigorating influx of energy lifts his head, straightens his back and brightens his spirits. Mr. Up has been brought back to life!
Welcome to the world of Legacy Machine Number One Xia Hang. Welcome to the world of Mr. Up and Mr. Down, a collaboration between MB&F and Chinese artist Xia Hang.

Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang —LM1 Xia Hang— retains all of the 19th century pocket watch-inspired features of the original LM1, including the majestically suspended slowly oscillating balance wheel and dual time indications that can be set completely independently, but with a twist: the power reserve is indicated by a miniature, highly-polished aluminum man, designed by talented Chinese sculptor, Xia Hang. The man sits up straight when the movement is fully wound —Mr. Up— and gradually slumps over as the power diminishes —Mr. Down. “I call these little men ‘comma men’, and their distinctive shape comes from a selection of art I created from 2005 to 2008. Commas do exist in Chinese writing and for me the ‘comma man’ represents a chubby boy.” says artist Xia Hang.

Xia Hang and MB&F share much in common. While MB&F create serious works of time-telling kinetic art, they don’t take themselves too seriously. Similarly, Xia Hang believes the world of art is often too serious; he likes it to be playful, and wants his sculptures to entertain and make people smile. And just like MB&F, Hang calls his kinetic sculptures ‘machines’. “I was first introduced to Xia Hang a few years ago by a Chinese art collector friend, and visited him on the outskirts of Beijing in his workshop. I was like a child in a toy factory!” says Maximilian Büsser. The in-house movement powering LM1 Xia Hang bears testimony to the enormous talent of its creators. Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode developed the LM1 calibre, which features the world’s first vertical power reserve and allows completely independent setting —including minutes— of both time displays. Acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen was responsible for the aesthetic design and for strictly ensuring the utmost respect for tradition and finish. No easy task with such an unconventional suspended-balance design from which to begin. A finely engraved sun-ray pattern on top of the movement plate —dial side— subtly catches the eye at certain angles without distracting attention from the twin white dials, floating balance or vertical power reserve. But it is in the style and finish of the bridges and plates visible through the display on the back of the movement where Kari Voutilainen has excelled in providing exquisite historical fidelity in both the shape of elegantly curved bridges and the traditionally wide space between the bridges and between the perimeter of the bridges and the case. On the back of the movement, 23 over-sized ruby jewels set in highly-polished countersunk gold chatons provide striking visual counterpoints to the Geneva waves traversing the sensually curved bridges. While providing historical links with the large jewels seen in high-grade antique pocket watch movements, the ruby bearings have a practical application in reducing wear/increasing longevity by accommodating large diameter pinions and holding more lubricating oil.

The MB&F Legacy Machine N°1 was conceived when Maximilian Büsser started fantasizing: “What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s, the first wristwatches appeared and I would've wanted to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but there would have been no Grendizers, Star Wars or fighter jets for my inspiration. But I would have had pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower and Jules Verne, so what might my 1911 machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional: Legacy Machine N°1 was my answer.” Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang is a limited edition of 12 pieces in red gold and 12 pieces in white gold. Each Machine is accompanied by a pair of polished stainless steel large-scale sculptures —approximately 15cm / 6" high— of Mr. Up and Mr. Down signed by Xia Hang. “Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang is the first time and hopefully not the last) that there has been a cross-pollination between an MB&F M.A.D. Gallery artist —Xia Hang— and a MB&F watch —LM1. In curating these amazing artists at our M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva, it opens a world of possibilities in possible co-creations with MB&F’s Machines”, mentions Maximilian Büsser.

Legacy Machine No. 1 LM1’s ingenious three-dimensional movement was specifically developed for MB&F from Maximilian Büsser’s sketches by Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode in Le Locle, Switzerland. The balance wheel and spring are at the very heart of any mechanical watch movement and are responsible for regulating timekeeping accuracy. Büsser has long been fascinated by the large, slowly oscillating —18,000vph compared with the 28,800vph common today— balance wheels of antique pocket watches, so it was no surprise this was his starting point from which to let his imagination roam free. What was surprising though is just how radically he reinterpreted tradition by relocating the balance wheel from its more usual position hidden at the back of the movement to the top, majestically floating above the movement… even floating above the dials. This manual wound movement provides a power reserve of 45 hours when fully wound and is composed of 274 parts.

While the location of Legacy Machine N°1’s regulating organ may be considered avant-garde, ‘tradition’ is upheld by the large 14 mm diameter balance wheel with regulating screws specifically developed for MB&F, balance spring with Breguet overcoil and mobile stud holder. Another very special feature of the LM1 movement is the ability to set the two time zones completely independently. The vast majority of dual time zone movements only allow the hours to be independently adjusted, while a rare few offer setting to the half hour. Legacy Machine N°1 allows both hours and minutes of each dial to be set to whatever time the user wishes. The vertical power reserve indicator on LM1 Xia Hang is driven by an ultra-flat differential with ceramic bearings, allowing for a slimmer complication and a more robust and longer-wearing mechanism.

LM1’s power reserve complication was modified to enable Xia Hang’s comma man to seamlessly transition from slumping right over when power is low to sitting up straight at full wind. Xia Hang first created full-size sculptures, which MB&F then scaled down to a height of just 4mm —1/8”— and then developed the articulation required. The head, shoulders, back and chest of ‘Mr. Up’ —as the power reserve indicator in known when wound—, all bend down —thanks to a concealed hinge— towards the horizontal as he becomes tired and Mr. Up becomes Mr. Down. The tiny micro-mechanical sculpture is crafted from aluminum to minimize energy requirements. A very high polish ensures that the little man both catches the light and the eye, as well as remaining faithful to Xia Hang’s original conception.

The rate-keeping of the twin dials is controlled by the same regulator —balance and escapement— so that once set, the two times stay perfectly synchronized with each other. Both the hours and minutes on both dials can be set to any time desired via their respective crowns. Complementing the three-dimensionality of the balance floating in space, the dual white dials with their bright blue gold hands float above the top of the movement. The dials are gently domed with a translucent, high-gloss luster created using a “laque tendue” process in which multiple layers of lacquer are applied and heated, causing them to stretch over the surface of the dials. To ensure aesthetic purity of the dials and their traditional Roman numerals, a sophisticated fixation underneath negates the necessity of visually obtrusive used screws. A fine golden perimeter circumscribing each dial elegantly reinforces their timeless classicism.

The watches are fitted with elegant hand-stitched alligator straps made by renowned Parisian leather good and strap maker Camille Fournet. The 18K red gold model features a dark brown strap while the 18K white gold version features a black one. The straps round up the elegance and refinement of this new timepiece with their gold pin buckles matching the case and their exceptional finishing.

Just as expected from a name like MB&F, the finishing on the robust 18K white or 18K red gold cases —measuring 44 mm in diameter— is exceptional and clearly shows the signs of the superb craftsmanship and the attention to detail that MB&F is known for. The cases are very solid and quite thick measuring 16 mm in thickness with an amazing satin-brushed finish and the most beautiful chamfers at the lugs.

On the wrist, prepare to have one of the most amazing horological creations and get ready to wow anyone asking you for the time. Every time you look at Mr. Up or Mr. Down, it will be a nice reminder of why MB&F is one of the most unique watch companies and why their watches are true horological machines and not just timepieces.

Sticker Price $107,000 USD. For more info on MB&F click here and for Xia Hang here.

Technical Specifications

Three-dimensional horological movement developed exclusively for MB&F by Jean-François Mojon /Chronode with aesthetics finishes specified by Kari Voutilainen. Manual winding with single mainspring barrel, power reserve indicator with a little man designed by Chinese artist Xia Hang and a power reserve of 45 hours while beating at a frequency of 18,000 vph.

Functions:
Hours and minutes; completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials;
unique vertical power reserve indicated by a highly-polished little man in aluminum. Left crown at 8 o’clock for setting time of left dial; right crown at 4 o’clock for setting time of right dial and winding.

Case:
Available in 18k red gold or 18k white gold
Dimensions: 44mm wide x 16mm high
Number of components: 65

Sapphire Crystals:
High domed sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on both sides.

Posted on February 27, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under MB&F and tagged MB&F Legacy Machine No. 1 Xia Hang Xia Hang Beijing Maximilian Büsser & Friends Jean Francois Mojon Chronode Kari Voutilainen Camille Fournet 2014.

Insider: Royal Oak Offshore Safari ref. 26170ST. Now a Discontinued Offshore, Long Live the Old Safari.

Last month at the SIHH 2014, Audemars Piguet presented the new generation of Royal Oak Offshores in 42 mm fitted with a display case back, ceramic crown and pushers, new dials, beefier crown guards and new straps. Based on the new line-up, we can infer that several references are now officially discontinued including the Royal Oak Offshore Rubber Clad. With the arrival of the new Safari and the new Navy, two iconic Royal Oak Offshores will be now long gone as we knew them up until now. Therefore, we decided to dedicate this post to one of the most iconic Royal Oak Offshores of all time, the Safari.

The Royal Oak Offshore Safari ref. 26170ST.OO.D091CR.01 was first introduced in 2005 —along with the Navy, the Black Themes and the Silver Themes strap models— as a leather strap Offshore option, under the ref. 26020ST. At that time, the Safari was the only Offshore model fitted with an alligator hornback strap. The Navy, the Silver Themes and the Black Themes were originally fitted with a smooth leather strap and not with a hornback.

From 1993 through early 2007, the beating heart inside all Offshores was the calibre 2226/2840; however, later in 2007, Audemars Piguet switched the old calibre to the new in-house calibre 3126/3840 —based off the Audemars Piguet in-house calibre 3120 with a Dubois Depraz chrono module on it— as the beating heart of all modern Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs with the exception of the Rubber Clad. The Rubber Clad, up until its last production date, was still fitted with the older calibre 2226/2840. At the time the calibre was switched, the reference for the Royal Oak Offshore Safari changed to 26170ST. Additionally, during the production of the G-serials, all Royal Oak Offshores were fitted with an anti-reflective coated loupe on the date aperture in order to improve its readability.

For many, the Safari will always remain as one of the most iconic Offshores ever created, while for others, it will remain as a somewhat bland and boring Offshore fitted with a pale cream colored dial. To us, the Safari will not only remain as an icon, but also as a perfectly balanced Royal Oak Offshore with the nicest cream colored dial with silver chrono registers and black Arabic numerals. Perhaps the only down side to this watch is the lack of luminescent material on the hands and numerals.

To really appreciate the beauty and elegance of a Royal Oak Offshore Safari ref. 26170ST.OO.D091CR.01, one needs to see the watch in person. Regardless of the lighting conditions, the beauty of the cream colored dial cannot be captured with a camera as it can only be fully appreciated with the naked eye. On the wrist, it is just as comfortable as any other Offshore on bracelet or strap. If you love brown straps, nothing compares to the beauty and unmistakeable look of the brown alligator hornback on a Safari. Some people dislike where the clasp is positioned against the wrist when the watch is worn, but we feel there's nothing wrong with it. If you have a 7.25" wrist, we recommend getting an extra long strap for the ultimate perfect fit as the clasp will be secured to the strap on its last perforation.

The Safari exudes class and elegance like no other stainless steel modern Offshore but comes in second place when compared to the original Royal Oak Offshore 25721ST.OO.1000ST.01 with blue dial reviewed here and that will always remain as the most beautiful Royal Oak Offshore ever created. For those of you that have always wanted a Safari but have always hesitated on getting one, this is the time to get it before is long gone forever. Something else that is worth mentioning about the AP Royal Oak Offshore Safari, is how versatile this watch can be as you can fit a Rubber Clad strap on it or even the Royal Oak Offshore stainless steel bracelet for a change. As you will see below, these two completely different looks are just breathtaking. In our opinion the Safari on Rubber Clad strap and the Safari on stainless steel bracelet are just fascinating and at times even better than the original look of the Safari on its hornback strap.

Sticker Price $25,700 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Posted on February 26, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet and tagged Audemars Piguet ref. 26170ST.OO.D091CR.01 Audemars Piguet ROO Safari Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Safari Audemars Piguet Calibre 3126/3840 Audemars Piguet Calibre 2226/2840 2014.

Video: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731

Insider: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731. World's Thinnest Manual Winding Minute Repeater and World's Thinnest Minute Repeater Movement.

It was in the 18th century that the first minute repeater watch was devised to provide an audible indication of the time in the dark, in an era before the advent of electric lighting. While this complication is no longer an imperious necessity, it continues to represent the pinnacle of the art of watchmaking. That is because each miniature repeater watch is unique and bears the unique signature of the master craftsman who made it. On demand, the minute repeater sounds the hours, quarter-hours and minutes. After activating the repeater slide, a hammer strikes the low-pitched gong to mark the hours, while the quarters are played by two hammers on the two gongs —one low-pitched and the other high-pitched— and the minutes are sounded on the high-pitched gong.

In 1941, Vacheron Constantin launched its first wristwatch equipped with a single complication in the shape of a minute repeater housed within an ultra-thin movement: Calibre 4261. The quest for extreme slenderness continued over the years, and in 1992, the Manufacture once again transcended the realms of possibility by presenting Calibre 1755, a minute repeater measuring just 3.28 mm thick —truly unprecedented. Today, Vacheron Constantin celebrates this emotionally charged complication with an all-new calibre inspired by its illustrious predecessors: the 1731, thus named in tribute to the birth of the brand founder, Jean-Marc Vacheron.

It was in 2009 that Vacheron Constantin decided to create a new minute repeater combining slenderness, a pure sound, aesthetic beauty, reliability and sturdiness. Four years proved necessary to solve this complex equation. While the new Calibre 1731 is barely thicker than its predecessor from 1993 —3.90 compared with 3.28 mm— due to its impressive 65-hour power reserve, it is nonetheless the thinnest on the market today, having successfully overcome the difficulty of assembling and adjusting parts that have been slimmed down to extremes. Nor are the technical feats confined to the ultra-thin side of its nature, since Calibre 1731 is equipped with a highly ingenious device developed by Vacheron Constantin in 2007 for the 2755 movement —another member of this exclusive family of minute repeater calibres: a flying strike governor.

Contrary to classic lever-type governors, this one is completely silent. Its role is to steady the rate at which the hammers strike the gongs. Without a regulator or governor, this musical sequence would take place at the speed of the striking barrel-spring, and would merely produce a rush of indiscernible notes. The device developed by Vacheron Constantin comprises two inertia-blocks or weights designed to act as a brake on the rotating shaft of the governor and thus evening out the energy supplied by the barrel spring. To achieve this, it makes use of two opposing centrifugal and centripetal forces. When the governor spins, the centrifugal force pivots one end of the weights outwards so that the other end presses on the shaft so as to stabilize the rotation speed and thus ensure a steady cadence. Perfectly finished right down to the smallest details, the governor bears Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross emblem, even though the latter cannot be seen from the front of the calibre.

Particular care was devoted to the acoustics of the Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731, since its sound is the very reason for being of a striking watch. Various technical choices were made to ensure a crystal-clear and entirely tuneful tone. The gongs are not only connected to the case middle to as to amplify the sound, but also for the first time stacked rather than placed side by side. The case is made to be as one with the movement, within a clever composition incorporating such subtle parameters as the airflow between the mechanism and the case, designed to achieve optimal propagation of the sound. The quest for perfection does not end there, since the case itself has been built without joints so that the elements can interact literally metal against metal and thus enhance the amplitude of the sound, while the flying governor ensures a steady rate of the hammer blows on the gongs.

While each master-watchmaker instils his own music into the minute repeater that he will take several months to assemble and fine-tune, the sound of the movement will be subjected to the keen ear of the virtuoso striking mechanism specialists within the Manufacture, and will undergo certain adjustments in order to achieve perfect harmony between low-pitched and high-pitched notes. And it is at precisely at 4:49 that the tests are performed, since that is the time when the cadence is the most clearly audible due to the almost identical intervals between the hours —4 strikes—, quarters —3 strikes— and minutes —4 strikes. The true soul of a repeater watch, the individual chime of each watch is recorded and carefully stored before it leaves the Manufacture, thus constituting a “soundprint” duly registered in the Vacheron Constantin archives. This procedure guarantees not only the lifelong repair of all its timepieces, both historical and contemporary, but also the ability to restore within its workshops the unique sound of each model equipped with a minute repeater.

For a master-watchmaker, taking part in creating striking watches is a supreme honour. An art that requires gifted hands, lengthy experience combined with infinite patience, as well as a truly musical ear. Watchmakers capable of mastering striking mechanisms thus belong to an extremely elite circle. At Vacheron Constantin, only the master craftsmen working in the “Grandes Complication” workshop create such marvels. To enter this inner sanctum, they must have acquired at least 15 years’ experience in the various other workshops, before working for two years under the mentorship of a master. While the minute repeater is probably the most fascinating of all complications, it is also the most demanding due to the large number of tiny parts that must be patiently assembled and made to interact, before repeatedly setting and adjusting them to the point of achieving perfectly smooth running and an absolutely pure sound. A single watch takes from three to six months to assemble and adjust. Concentration is a must at all times, since one small extra stroke of the file on the base of the gong could muffle its tone.

Testifying to a degree of time-honored know-how that sets an authentic Fine Watchmaking creation apart from the rest, the components of Calibre 1731 are patiently finished one by one, even though some will remain hidden. Whereas the mainplate is circular-grained, the hammers are specular polished so as to alternately catch the light or appear clothed in a deep black cloak so as to eliminate any trace of the finely worked surface. Meanwhile the bridges are enlivened with a delicate Côtes de Genève pattern to create a refined wave effect. While the artisans of the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin are well accustomed to the various finishing techniques, there is one that requires a highly demanding 18-month training period: bevelling or chamfering, meaning the specific work on the interior angles, such as can notably be found on the seven bridges of Calibre 1731.

To work on such a complex mechanism with 265 components and 36 jewels, the master-watchmaker has over 1,200 tools, many of which he has made himself and some of which have been created to perform just one gesture. They form an impressive panoply, even through a master’s supreme instrument remains his own ear. For it is in placing his own personal ‘signature’ on the model during the sound-adjustment phase that he breathes life into the minute repeater.

The epitome of classicism conveyed through absolute purity, the Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 ref. 30110/000R-9793 conceals remarkable complexity beneath its apparent simplicity. Its design is inspired by an ultra-thin model created in 1955 to mark the Vacheron Constantin bicentenary and then revived in 2004 to give life to the Patrimony Contemporaine, reference 81180. Since then, its extreme slenderness, its 18K 5N pink gold pebble shape case measuring 41 mm in diameter, its curved bezel, its cambered silvered opaline dial and crystal, its 'pearl' minute track, along with its baton-shaped hands sweeping over alternating triangle and baton-shaped hour-markers, have firmly established it as a timeless classic. Fitted with a brown alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, saddle-finished with large square scales, the elegance and presence of this timepiece is superb and pure perfection.

While the new Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 has remained loyal to its timeless design codes, its case has been the object of subtle and complex workmanship so as to form a unified whole with Calibre 1731 and to set a double record: the thinnest manual-winding minute repeater movement —3.90 mm— housed inside the thinnest manual winding minute repeater watch —8.09 mm.

The curve of the case middle has been accentuated so as to trim down the silhouette, while the sapphire crystal case-back has been opened as broadly as possible so as to reveal the hammers, along with a rare glimpse of the gongs. On the dial side, Vacheron Constantin has opted for an extremely elegant small seconds offset at 8 o’clock, the first in the Patrimony Contemporaine line: a useful and playful way of making the Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 instantly recognizable. The watch is delivered with the resonator of sound «La Musique du Temps» enhancing the sound and the harmony notes of the Vacheron Constantin minute repeaters.

At the bottom of this post you'll find a fascinating video from Vacheron Constantin and some of our live pictures taken at the SIHH 2014 earlier this year.

Sticker Price $365,000 USD. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

Posted on February 25, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Vacheron Constantin and tagged Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Comtemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 Vacheron Constantin ref. 30110/000R-9793 2014.

Insider: Romain Jerome Skylab Collection. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Fascinated by our universe and man’s accomplishments, Romain Jerome reinterprets contemporary history through the design of a new and aesthetically advanced timepiece, the Skylab. The infinity of space has intrigued mankind for centuries. When Magellan established the spherical shape of our planet or when Galileo, the father of modern observational astronomy, discovered Heliocentrism — astronomical model in which the earth and planets revolve around a relatively stationary sun at the center of the solar system—, the reality of space changed the vision of contemporary dreamers.

In honor of these discoveries, Romain Jerome has imagined a new timepiece with an avant-garde design and to be the first skeletonized timepiece from the manufacture. Named Skylab after NASA’s first space station and celebrating the 40th anniversary of its launch, the Skylab is available in three limited edition references —99 pieces each— featuring parts of the Apollo 11 in their 44 mm diameter cases, a skeletonized dial, a display case back and black calf straps with pin buckle. The Skylab Red ref. RJ.M.AU.028.01 features a black PVD-coated steel case with red gold bezel and polished black-PVD coated steel lugs and paws; the Skylab Speed Metal ref. RJ.M.AU.025.01 features a satin-finished black PVD-coated steel case with black PVD-coated bezel and lugs and paws in polished steel; lastly, the Skylab Heavy Metal ref. RJ.M.AU.023.01 features a satin-finished stainless steel case with satin-finished stainless steel bezel and lugs and paws in polished steel.

The generous yet refined case nests a complex five layered skeletonized movement giving place to one’s imagination: every single component of the movement looks like it is floating in space carefully held by angled bridges that recall the geometrical patterns of a computer mother board. At the same time, the display case back enhances the sense of zero gravity highlighting the single barrel at 12 o’clock and revealing the balance wheel at 6 o’clock while the Romain Jerome’s monogram subtly appears at 3 o’clock on the inferior level. The beating heart inside the new Skylab is the manual wound Romain Jerome calibre RJ004-M with 21 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound.

Externally, the timepieces’ paws have been enlarged to enhance this new model while the lugs have been hollowed to lighten the watch and create a unique case closing system with fewer visible screws than on a regular timepiece. By enabling the main parts of the movement to be seen, the architecture of the skeleton shines in anthracite or represents the infinity of space in black PVD coated-steel, both declinations are finished with a hand drawn stroke. True to the DNA of the brand each watch contains material from Apollo 11 mission on the bezel. The brands new design is a testimony to the conquest of space and the underlying dreams that made it possible.

Sticker Price $18,950 USD Skylab Heavy Metal and Speed Metal. $21,950 USD Skylab Red. For more info on Romain Jerome click here.

Posted on February 24, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Romain Jerome and tagged Romain Jerome ref. RJ.M.AU.023.01 Romain Jerome Skylab Heavy Metal Romain Jerome ref. RJ.M.AU.025.01 Romain Jerome ref. RJ.M.AU.028.01 Romain Jerome Skylab Red Romain Jerome Skylab Speed Metal Romain Jerome Calibre RJ004-M.

Experience: The Halekulani Hotel in Honolulu, Hawaii. Service, Luxury and Hospitality with a Rolex GMT Master II on the Wrist.

If service, luxury and hospitality are the three words that come to mind when thinking on where to stay on your next Hawaiian getaway, then be sure to tell Platinum Concierge at American Express to book you at the Halekulani Hotel on O’ahu as soon as possible. Old world hospitality and remember-your-name service is alive and well at this classic hotel located on the sands of Waikiki Beach.

The entire lobby area and first floor have no doors as this hotel always wants to maintain an air of openness and hospitality. As large as this hotel actually is, you would never know it; the lobby area is quaint and inviting. A beautiful floral arrangement is the centerpiece of the lobby and is the first thing one sees upon walking toward check-in.

While being escorted to the room, one cannot help but be delighted by the cordial welcoming by any staff member you see along the way to your room. "Aloha" —hello in Hawaiian— is the thing to say and definitely the spirit of this hotel. The rooms, while not the biggest for a luxury hotel, are simple and elegantly furnished. Light blues and whites are used throughout to keep a very bright and tidy look. Not much is used in the room in terms of electronics or gadgetry but the WiFi is complimentary and very fast. At the end of day you are in Hawaii to relax and enjoy nature and the ocean.

As you rest on your personal lawn chair on the lana’i —or balcony in plain English—, the views of Waikiki Beach and Mamala Bay are spectacular. The cool breeze from the Hawaiian trade winds are as refreshing as they are invigorating. Enjoying a cold beverage with this view beats any time spent at any of the nearby bars or restaurants.

The sun is setting and the beaches start to clear...it must be time to get ready to explore the city. You reach into the in-room safe and pull out your Rolex GMT Master II to complete your evening look. With the ability to keep three time zones at once, this watch is a 'must-have' for watchlifestylers who constantly need to juggle time zones of loved ones as well as business matters. Choosing the stainless steel model will keep you under the radar, while the polished center links of the beautiful Oyster bracelet will give that subtle 'pop' to your wrist that the popular Rolex Submariner in stainless steel won't.

5:30 P.M. rolls around so you make your way to the elevator. Once in the lobby, you hear the sweet sounds of traditional Hawaiian music. Your ears try to guide you to the sound, and sure enough you find a trio playing music at the 'House Without A Key', a bar located to the right of the pool. Before leaving the grounds, this is the perfect place to get your first drink of the evening. With an extensive list of cocktails both traditional and tropical, one can easily find something to quench their thirst.

Being that this is Waikiki, your choices for eating and drinking are plentiful. Our suggestion, is to head down to the Trump International Hotel Waikiki, located on the corner of Saratoga Road and Kalia Road just steps from the Halekulani Hotel. At the bar located on the fifth floor called 'Wai’olu Ocean View Lounge', you can try their award winning Mai Tai —yes, it’s won Hawaii’s Best Mai Tai for many years in a row— or just a plain and simple Chopin vodka water. With views of both the ocean and the buildings in and around downtown Honolulu, it is a spectacular place to watch the sunset as well as fireworks on Friday nights.

Had your fill here? Head downstairs to BLT Steak on the first floor. You won’t find any contrived tropical nonsense here. This is where you come for steak and fine seafood while avoiding the crowds and the typical tourist meal.

Your evening winds down... luckily the haven of tranquility and relaxation that is the Halekulani Hotel is only steps away from dinner. If you need that last night cap before retiring to your chambers, I recommend 'Lewers Lounge' at the hotel. While a jacket is not required, pants and shoes are, therefore, make sure you are properly attired. Sweet jazz plays until midnight on most nights —some nights later— and their coconut cake at the Halekulani is famous to travelers and locals alike. This watchlifestyler opts for a half bottle of something French and a slice of cake...it is vacation after all.

Your night has come to a close. You enter your room to find that the sheets have been turned down. You enter a deep slumber, looking forward to a wonderful day of sunshine and drinks by the pool the following day.

For more info on the Halekulani Hotel click here.

Posted on February 23, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Travel and tagged Halekulani Hotel Lewers Lounge Rolex GMT Master II Wai’olu Ocean View Lounge Waikiki Beach Mamala Bay.

Experience: The Chicago Auto Show. The Largest Auto Show in North America.

A few days ago, we attended the Chicago Auto Show. First staged in 1901, the Chicago Auto Show is the largest auto show in North America and has been held more times than any other auto exposition on the continent. This year marks the 106th edition of this show and we are quite pleased with what we saw. The Chicago Auto Show utilizes more than 1 million square feet in the North and South Exhibit Halls of the McCormick Place convention center. At the show we witnessed multiple global and North American new car launches; a complete range of domestic and imported passenger cars and trucks; sport utility vehicles; and experimental or concept cars. With a 1,000 different vehicles on display as well as numerous accessories and auto-related exhibits, racing competition vehicles and project, antique and collector cars, the Chicago Auto Show was a threat for the eyes. On the wrist an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Safari ref. 26170ST.OO.D091CR.01 was our companion and our shirt even matched the so many blue cars that were on display including the Porsche 911 you can see below.

Some of the new automobiles that were showcased at the show and that we were eager to experience include the new Porsche Macan, the new Rolls-Royce Wraith with 624 hp and a price tag of $364,125 USD, the new Maserati GranTurismo, the new entry level Maserati Ghibli priced right at $66,900 USD, the uncleaned SRT that finished 3rd at the Rolex 24 at Daytona, the new Jaguar F-Type starting at $65,000 USD, the new BMW M4 Coupé and the 2015 M3, the new BMW 2 Series, the fully electric BMW I8 and I3, the F1 Infiniti Red Bull Racing Car driven by Sebastian Vettel, the new Mercedes-Benz CLA, the Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG GT 'Gullwing', one of the Mazda SKYACTIV Mazda6 prototypes from the 2014 TUDOR United SportsCar Championship, an iconic 1963 Corvette Stingray and even a very interesting Honda FCEV concept car. Now, enjoy the images.

For more info on the Chicago Auto Show click here.

Posted on February 22, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Automobiles and tagged Audemars Piguet ROO Safari ref. 26170ST.OO.D091CR.01 Maserati GranTurismo Maserati Ghibli Jaguar F-Type BMW M4 Coupé Infiniti Red Bull Racing F1 Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG GT Gullwing Porsche Macan Rolls-Royce Wraith.

Insider: Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck. An Astronomical Watch with Moon Phases and Tidal Status.

Seventeen years after the completion of the historical astronomical 'Trilogy of Time' Ulysse Nardin has developed another revolutionary astronomical timepiece with the distinct DNA of Dr. Ludwig Oechslin. Dr. Ludwig Oechslin’s concept focused on the system of sun, earth and moon, concentrating on the scientifically accurate depiction of the moon phase, and the global influence of lunar and solar gravitation, resulting in the ebb and flow of the tides.

The Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck ref. 1069-113 in platinum is truly an astronomical watch where by combining the movement of two sapphire crystal rotating discs in one display, the moon phase indication is so precise that more than 100,000 years will have to pass before it shows a full moon rather than a new moon —or vice versa. The Moonstruck simulates the rotation of the moon around the earth, as well as the apparent movement of the sun around the globe. The latter is shown by another disc, rotating once every 24 hours. This permits the determination of the current moon phase in relation to any location in the world. This fascinating watch fitted with a robust platinum case measuring 46 mm in diameter and a blue alligator strap with folding buckle is definitely one of the most interesting complications one can see on someone's wrist. This watch is available in a limited edition of 500 pieces in platinum and 500 pieces in 18K red gold as ref. 1062-113.

The Moonstruck features a hand-painted earth over a mother-of-pearl dial that indicates the position of sun and moon in relation to earth, the moon phases, hours and minutes and a second time zone. The Moonstruck also shows the global dynamics of tides that depend upon the gravitational effects of Moon and Sun. This revolutionary mechanical wristwatch illustrates the current tidal status and trend in relation to specific coastlines or oceans. The cumulative influences of the Moon and Sun which result in spring tides are also clearly shown. To guarantee uncompromised readability, the watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

While the date is indicated via the fixed blue ceramic bezel with silver engraved numbers, the second time zone is indicated via the outer chapter ring of the dial with the 24 hours marked with gold numbers. The Moonstruck features the Ulysse Nardin patented time zone quick-setting adjustment buttons —marked with a plus and minus sign respectively— where the wearer can advance or back the second time zone indicating ring with the push of a button. A small rose gold plate bearing the watch's case number is located right in between these buttons.

Overall, the highly polished platinum case is very nicely finished but quite prone to swirl marks and scratches. The winding crown is made of matte blue ceramic and capped with a platinum ring on top. The case lugs are thick and solid and they create the perfect balance along with the elegant alligator strap on the watch.

The beating heart inside this exceptional timepiece is the in-house Ulysse Nardin automatic calibre UN-106 which provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours when fully wound. The beautifully finished calibre bears the traditional Le Locle Ulysse Nardin seal, circular 'Côtes de Genève' finish on the bridges and a 22K white gold oscillating weight with a blue insert that contains an anchor. The calibre is fully visible via the display case back offering a real treat for the eyes. Despite its display case back, this watch is waterproof rated to a depth of a 100 meters.

On the wrist, the watch feels slightly bigger than its actual size, very heavy but quite comfortable as the shape of the watch lugs allow for a perfect fit around the wrist. Now, the only down side to this watch, is that anyone intending to wear it, should have a wrist with a circumference of at least 7.25". While is somewhat complicated to read the time on this watch and understand all the different indications that this watch provides, we still feel that its wrist presence is just exceptional. Next time you are traveling the seven seas in your Wally 118, make sure one of this beautiful watches is strapped to your wrist.

Sticker Price $125,500 USD. For more info on Ulysse Nardin click here.

Posted on February 21, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Ulysse Nardin and tagged Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck ref. 1069-113.

Insider: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Grande Date in 18K Rose Gold and Stainless Steel. Live Pictures and Pricing.

This new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Grande Date in 18K rose gold and stainless steel ref. 51.2160.4047/01.C713 was presented to us recently and it is one of the novelties that will be shown by this manufacture at Baselworld 2014 at the end of March. The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Grande Date collection is fitted with a large and solid case measuring 45 mm in diameter, 15.60 mm in thickness and with a dial that features an opening where the legendary beating heart of the El Primero automatic movement with column-wheel chronograph can be appreciated.

This new watch will be available with a brown alligator strap or a full two-tone bracelet. This new model features a stainless steel case with an 18K rose gold bezel, crown and pushers. The chocolate brown dial features a 'big date' aperture at 2, a 30-minute chronograph register at 3, a three-arm small seconds hand at 9 and a sun/moon indicator —night and day— at 6 o'clock. The dial is one of the most beautiful brown dials we have ever seen and its color gets accentuated by the rose gold-plated faceted applied markers and rose gold-plated faceted hands with superluminova inlays. The beauty of the dial can be fully appreciated without any undesired reflections thanks to the domed anti-reflective double-coated sapphire crystal fitted on the watch.

The watch is fitted with a display case back that allows for full view of the impressive Zenith El Primero 4047 automatic calibre. The movement is composed of 332 parts and 32 jewels and it provides a power reserve of 50 hours while beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph. The finishing on the movement is extremely well done and the skeletonized rotor features the iconic Zenith star on bas-relief.

On the wrist the watch wears true to its size and very comfortably. The wrist presence is unparalleled and for those that don't fancy the brown dial, there is also a silver sunray dial available on this new two-tone model.

Sticker Price $17,800 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.

Posted on February 20, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Zenith, Baselworld and tagged Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Grande Date Zenith Calibre 4047 Zenith ref. 51.2160.4047/01.C713 2014.

Watch Shopping Guide: London. One of the Watch Shopping Capitals of the World.

Without a doubt, London is one of the watch shopping capitals of the world. Our watch shopping journey started right next door to our hotel at the Andaz on Liverpool street. Carr Watches is located next to the exclusive boutique hotel Andaz on 53 Liverpool Street and is open from Monday thru Friday from 9am to 6pm. Carr Watches carries a nice assortment of new and pre-owned timepieces ranging from Audemars Piguet to Rolex, Panerai and everything in between. Interestingly enough, as we walked in, we ran into one of our Instagram followers and someone you probably follow on Instagram under the username Lucky Luciano. At Carr, we were welcomed by several interesting timepieces including a full set Audemars Piguet Royal Oak End of Days in mint condition, a Rolex GMT Master 16750 No Date Spider Dial with purple fading Pepsi bezel and a Panerai Radiomir 1936 California Dial PAM 249 amongst other fascinating watches.

After our brief stop by Carr, we took the tube towards Piccadilly Circus in order to check all the amazing boutiques and authorized dealers located on Old Bond Street and New Bond Street. Getting off the tube on Piccadilly Circus is the easiest way to make it to Old and New Bond Street where the real watch shopping experience takes place. Just a few blocks west of Piccadilly Circus, you'll stumble upon your first stop at the Burlington Arcade where Mappin & Webb and the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique are located, right on the corner of Old Bond Street and Piccadilly. Mappin & Webb carries a nice selection of brands including Bell & Ross, Breitling, Omega, Rolex and even Patek Philippe amongst others.

As you start heading north on Old Bond Street towards New Bond Street, you will run into an wide array of watch boutiques including two Cartier boutiques, Vacheron Constantin, Omega and Rolex. Not far from the Rolex boutique and the second Cartier boutique, right on the opposite side of the street, located at 170 New Bond Street you will find MARCUS, perhaps the the most exclusive watch store in London and what we like to describe as a sanctuary for Audemars Piguet and haute horlogerie lovers as featured here last month. Next door to MARCUS, you will find the Piaget boutique.

Across the street from MARCUS, you will find the Breguet boutique that is currently being remodeled and temporarily located inside the exclusive Asprey store at the iconic corner of Grafton and New Bond Street. Right around that same block, you will stumble upon Chopard, De Grisogono, Georg Jensen and the Patek Philippe boutique. You can't miss the Patek Philippe boutique because it is flanked by the most beautiful brass sculpture of what we like to think as two watchlifestylers having a good watch talk right outside the boutique sitting on a park bench. The Patek Philippe boutique in London, is one of the only three exclusive boutiques —the other two salons are in Geneva and Paris— operated by Patek and is located right in between Georg Jensen and the prestigious Watches of Switzerland store. Watches of Switzerland is a very large authorized dealer that carries Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, Glycine, Jaeger-LeCoultre, NOMOS Glashütte, Omega, Rolex, SLYDE, Zenith, Rado, Oris, Panerai and Patek Philippe amongst other brands.

Still walking northbound on New Bond Street and not far from Watches of Switzerland, you will find the Hublot and Breitling boutiques, as well as two of our favorite authorized dealers in the world, Wempe and Kronometry 1999. At Kronometry 1999 —located on New Bond Street between Brook and Oxford— you will find a very large selection of haute horlogerie brands including Audemars Piguet, Hautlence, Richard Mille, Romain Jerome, Bovet, Ulysse Nardin, De Bethune, Vacheron Constantin, HYT and Zenith amongst others. Right next door to Kronometry 1999 you will come across Frost of London, the authorized dealer for Franc Vila, Arnold & Son, Maîtres du Temps, Giuliano Mazzuoli, SLYDE, Badollet, Devon, Cvstos and Corum amongst others.

Your last stop on New Bond Street and a must see, should be at the Watch Centre —located at 74 New Bond Street next to Leonidas chocolates. This fascinating store is a pre-owned and vintage watch paradise for those seeking Double Red Sea-Dwellers, Red Submariners, Steve McQueen Explorers, Paul Newman Daytonas, rare dial GMT Masters and even discontinued Audemars Piguet or Panerai watches. During our visit at their small but intimate store, we saw one of the most beautiful Red Subs we have seen in a very long time —complete with box and papers and with the thickest case one can find— along with a gorgeous 1655 Albino and even a rare GMT Master 1675 with United Arab Emirates royal crest insignia dial.

Lastly, if you still have time and energy for more watch shopping —which you probably will— head over to the south Kensington/Knightsbridge area to check the amazing watch department at Harrods of London. At Harrods of London you will not only have one of the best shopping experiences of your life, but you will also be amazed by the inventory and number of watch brands they carry. Some of the brands in their watch department include A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, IWC, Panerai, De Witt, Frederique Constant, Richard Mille, Romain Jerome, MB&F, Breitling, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex and Girard-Perregaux just to name a few. While you are at Harrods, make sure you stop by the art gallery inside the store and get a mandatory wrist shot —like the ones at the bottom of this post— next to one of Salvador Dali's sculptures, especially next to the ones of melting pocket watches like those in his famous painting 'The Persistence of Memory'.

News: Presenting the URWERK UR-210Y 'Black Hawk'. A Limited Edition of Only 75 Pieces.

URWERK continues to wow the watch industry with their stunning complications and forward thinking design. After unveiling the fascinating EMC timepiece at the end of August of 2013, this time, URWERK has taken another big step unveiling the UR-210Y Black Hawk. A watch available in a limited edition of only 75 pieces in Titanium and AlTiN-treated steel.

This new timepiece, just like all other URWERK watches is not your run-of-the-mill watch. The UR-210Y tells time through a satellite complication display located at the center of the dial and fitted with wandering hour and retrograde minute indicators. Yhe UR-210Y’s satellite complication with retrograde minute is both highly original and totally explosive. The principal feature is a high-tech, oversized, three-dimensional retrograde minute hand. Its function is to enclose the hour satellite and indicate the time as it transverses the 0-to-60-minute scale. This one-hour journey through time, tracing an arc of 120°, is smooth and fluid. But the true nature of the piece is revealed at the end of the 59th minute. Then a sharp distinct “click” signals the return of the minute hand to its starting point. In less than 0.1 of a second the hand flies back to dock with the next hour satellite. This high-speed retrograde system is based on three key elements. A central axis set in ruby bearings provides excellent stability for the satellite/retrograde complication. A cylindrical marine chronometer type spring runs vertically around the axis and generates the optimal tension required for the retrograde minutes flyback. A minute hand, which also forms a frame for the hour satellites, displays the time in an extraordinary way. Milled from aluminum to exacting tolerances of approximately 3 microns, the whole structure has a total weight of just 0.302 grams and is counter balanced by a brass weight. This three-dimensional cage offers rigidity as it transfers energy from the
cylindrical flyback spring in the top center of the carrousel to the double-star gear underneath. Lastly, a double coaxial star-shaped cam regulates the retrograde mechanism through its gearing and its rotation defines the trajectory of the minute hand. When the minute hand reaches 60, the double star trips a (one of three) hockey-stick shaped spring under the mechanism, which liberates the minute to fly back to the next hour satellite at 0-minutes.

Equipped with a winding efficiency indicator —a world's first— on the left top corner of the dial —11 o'clock position—, the display lets you see if you are active enough to replenish the watch movement with enough energy via its automatic winding rotor, or if the watch is just running on stored energy. The watch also lets you change the winding efficiency of its rotor so that it matches your daily rhythm, and I can even let you switch to manual winding mode if that suits the wearer better. This indicator will measure the winding efficiency over the last two hours. If the wearer's activity has been good enough to replenish the UR-210Y’s energy levels, the efficiency indicator will point emphatically to the green zone. If the wearer has not generated enough energy, the winding efficiency indicator will point to the red zone.

Once the UR-210Y indicates an insufficient supply of energy, the wearer can then position the winding efficiency selector at the back of the watch to “Full” and then the rotor will then convert the slightest movement into stored energy. In this configuration, a turbine connected to the rotor provides smooth, unimpeded power. But if the wearer is more active, then that may provide more power than required and unnecessarily wear the mechanism. In that case, the wearer would position the winding efficiency selector to “Reduced” to engage the rotor damping system. An air turbine compressor mounted on ruby bearings spins and creates internal resistance —enough friction to slow down or dampen the automatic winding rotor. In the “Stop” mode, the automatic winding system is disabled completely and the UR-210Y runs off reserve power and may require manual winding.

Because of its black color, the watch has earned the nickname “Black Hawk”. The massive case measuring 43.8 mm wide, 53.6 mm long and 17.8 mm thick, is made of high-tech titanium and AlTiN-treated steel, which increases its resistance to scratches and acids. The watch is also fitted with an oversized winding crown that takes the center stage as it is the norm on most of the URWERK creations. Additionally, for the first time in the history of an URWERK timepiece, the watch is fitted with a black nylon fabric strap.

The caseback offers a limited view of the URWERK Caliber UR-7.10 fitted with 51 jewels, mono-metallic balance, spring flat balance, turbine equipped self-winding mechanism and which provides a power reserve of 39 hours when fully wound. On the back we also see the winding efficiency selector, as well as a small plate where the limited edition case number is engraved. The watch is waterproof to a depth of 30 meters.

Sticker Price $175,000 USD. For more info URWERK click here.

Posted on February 17, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Urwerk and tagged URWERK Caliber UR-7.10 URWERK UR-210Y.

Insider: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 44mm Anthracite Dial ref. 26402CE. Just Stunning in Every Aspect.

This new sophisticated chronograph with its incisive design features a wealth of opulent detailing. Presented at the SIHH 2014 and also in 2015 in Geneva, this new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore in 44 mm ref. 26402CE.OO.A002CA.02 features a full ceramic case and bezel paired with an Anthracite dial with “Méga Tapisserie”, anthracite counter at 12 o’clock, anthracite counters with grey outer zone at 6 and 9 o’clock and red chronograph hands. The look of this new dial is accentuated by the silver flange with tachymeter scale. The ceramic case is round out by its titanium crown guards, titanium plots and black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle. As it is the norm with Royal Oaks and Royal Oak Offshores, the finish on the case is superb and the traditional vertical brushed finish is prevalent on both the bezel and the case in a remarkable way.

This new anthracite dial is very unique in terms of color and depending on the angle at which the light hits it, it will vary from a deep grey, to a greyish blue and even to a deep midnight blue. The red accents along with the silvered outer zone on the chrono registers and the white and black markers make this dial a perfectly balanced one.

The beating heart inside this watch is the Audemars Piguet calibre 3126/3840 composed of 365 parts, 59 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 55 hours. As we have mentioned it before, this calibre is based off of the 3120 but with a Dubois-Depraz chrono module. The calibre is fully visible via the display case back on the watch.

On the wrist, the watch is just exceptional. Even though we consider ourselves Royal Oak Offshore purists and to us there's nothing more comfortable than the original 42 mm Offshore, we feel that the 44 mm case is just as comfortable. The wrist presence of this new anthracite dial Offshore is just out of this world and all we can say is that we were pleasantly surprised by how good this watch looks all around.

Sticker Price $41,700 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Posted on February 16, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet, SIHH, SIHH 2015 and tagged Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ref. 26402CE.OO.A002CA.02 Audemars Piguet 44mm Offshore Anthracite Dial Audemars Piguet Calibre 3126/3840 SIHH 2014 SIHH 2015 2014.

Video: SLYDE HD3 & S1. A Digital Swiss Timepiece with Multiple Displays.

SLYDE watches are perhaps the coolest digital display watch in the market. These watches draw on a whole range of groundbreaking technologies and merge them into the world of 21st century luxury watchmaking in a user friendly digital timepiece. Incorporating the craftsmanship and accuracy of high-end watch-making, the technology of an internet platform and the aura of prestige, SLYDE features a touchscreen powered by a high-tech graphic engine with a groundbreaking navigation system.

Insider: SLYDE HD3 & S1. A Luxury Swiss Made Digital Timepiece with Character.

SLYDE was founded in 2005 by Jorg Hysek Sr. and Fabrice Gonet. Jorg Hysek Sr. is the world-renowned watch designer behind iconic timepieces like the Vacheron Constantin 222, the Breguet Marine, the TAG Heuer 6000 and the TAG Heuer Kirium, amongst many other timepieces from brands like Tiffany & Co., Dunhill, Cartier, Ebel and Boucheron. Fabrice Gonet, is an esthete of the alternative scene, whose creativity is inspired by science-fiction and steeped in technology. During his earlier years he made many important encounters and brought his expertise to new brands such as Romain Jerome, for which he created the first timepiece in collaboration with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, and Volna where he supervised the creation of the entire line.

The innovative display of the SLYDE watch, enables the user to generate an infinite variety of timepieces on his wrist. This range of multiple watches in one has been made possible by creating top-quality virtual modules. Slyde's patented bi-axial navigation system shows every form of time: On the vertical axis, present time offers a variety of watch interfaces for a customized indication of the current time. The SLYDE watch was made according to the traditional standards of top-grade Swiss watchmaking and is labelled “Swiss Made”. Fitted with a generous and robust tonneau-shaped case measuring 47.71 mm in length, 57.84 mm in width and 17.53 mm in thickness. The SLYDE watch is available in different metals including stainless steel, PVD steel, titanium, PVD titanium and 18K rose gold.

All SLYDE watches are powered by an electronic movement with a lithium 3.8V rechargeable battery that gets charged via USB. To charge the watch, you need to put it on a small charging station that magnetically adheres to the watch case back. A full charge typically lasts around seven days depending on how frequently you check the time or you play with the watch. The watch is also fitted with a nice battery indicator —located on the right top side of the case— composed by five small LED dots that light up in blue whenever the watch is tapped to check the time. If the five dots light up, that means that the watch is fully charged, one dot means the watch needs to be charged. Even though the watch is fitted with a charging port on the back, it is water resistant to a depth of 30 meters.

The SLYDE is a very comfortable watch that tends to be very light and that wraps around your wrist almost like a bracelet. The watch is fitted a case-wide black leather strap with contrast stitching and a deployant buckle. The leather strap is nicely finished with a texture that resembles an alligator strap.

The touch-screen on the SLYDE is nice and bright and comes with a resolution of 232 x 240 pixel with a 28 x 29 mm active zone. By tapping or sliding a finger on the screen the wearer selects a display from the range of modules, scrolling from an animated virtual mechanism in 3D to a digital module that can be entirely configured to personal preferences. Each movement displays seven functions: the time, the date, time zones, a calendar, the moon phase, a chronograph and a countdown timer. On the horizontal axis, past and future time can be fully personalized by activating the time elapsed since an occasion or the countdown of time remaining until an event —using personal pictures and integrated indicators. Once you tap the watch screen to check the time it is extremely easy to navigate through the different options and available engines. While reviewing the watch we also noticed that the screen turns on by rapidly turning your wrist around to check the time and without the need for the quick tap. All watches are preloaded with three different engines and additional engines can be purchased as add-ons. If you quickly tap on the screen while the engine is on display, the animation comes to life. Below you will find a video We have added a video that shows the display in full action.

On the wrist, the watch wears comfortably and perfectly wrapped around your wrist as long as you have a wrist of at least 7.25" in circumference. Those with smaller wrists will find it almost impossible to wear this watch the right way. If you'd like to own a Swiss made digital watch with the coolest concept and functionality, look no further. Next time you are spinning at Pacha or Space in Ibiza, this watch will complement your look and match the bright lights of your turntable and mixer.

Sticker Price $14,500 USD for S1 with PVD steel plates and gold lugs. $7,050 USD for HD3 in PVD Titanium. For more info on SLYDE click here.

Posted on February 15, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Slyde and tagged Slyde HD3 Slyde S1 Jorg Hysek Fabrice Gonet.

Insider: Omega Seamaster Bullhead. The Rebirth of an Iconic Chronograph.

With a case and dial configuration unlike any other Omega; the original 1969 Seamaster Bullhead that inspired this wristwatch is among the rarest, most collectable and most recognizable chronographs ever produced. The Omega Seamaster Bullhead is fitted with a stainless steel shield-shaped case that measures 43 mm in length by 43 mm in width. The case features brushed and polished areas as well as sharp angles and a special angled curved shape on its back. The watch is fitted with an inner revolving bezel and the unusual placement of its chronograph pushers and crowns made it a favorite among watch aficionados in the late 60s and early 70s.

Its winding crown at 12 o’clock was flanked by two chronograph pushers and it was this unique configuration that gave the watch its nickname as it resembles a bull head with its horns. There is also another crown at the 6 o’clock position that controls the internal rotating bezel.

To meet a long-standing request from Bullhead enthusiasts, Omega reissued three versions of the iconic chronograph last year. The first Bullhead model ref. 225.12.43.50.04.001 features a white dial with red accents, white bi-directional rotating inner bezel with a 24-hour scale and a day/night display with white numerals contrasted against blue and black backgrounds and a very nice brown strap with beige contrast stitching. The second model a.k.a. the "Sport Chic" dial Bullhead ref. 225.12.43.50.01.001, features a black dial with a reversed "Clous de Paris" pattern with red accents, black bi-directional rotating inner bezel with a 12-hour scale and a black leather strap with red contrast stitching.

Lastly, the third model which is the one we are reviewing here, ref. 225.12.43.50.02.001 features a silvered “Rallye” dial with perlage, black perforated leather strap with red contrast stitching and a black 60-minute scale on its black bi-directional rotating inner bezel. All three models are priced equally and available in a limited edition of 669 pieces each. The "Rallye" dial on this watch is perhaps one of the most unique dials we have seen in any Omega watch and its the result of a labor intensive 'perlage' finishing job. While the pictures depict the hands being somewhat orange, the actual color of them is more of a burnt red. Unfortunately we had to review this watch under bright boutique lights instead of natural light. The dial features stick markers with luminescent material, a 30-minute chrono counter at 12, a subsidiary running seconds register at 6 and a date aperture at 3 o'clock.

While the new models, with their characteristic symmetrical case and bezel, have all of the charm of the original, there are some modifications that were made. For instance, while the pushers for the chronograph are still mounted at the top, the round pushers on the original watch have been replaced with rectangular ones and the movement has been changed. While the original Bullhead from 1969 was fitted with a manual wound Lemania 930 chronograph calibre —where the right pusher was used to start/stop the 30-minute chronograph and the left pusher was used to reset the chronograph—, the new models are fitted with the Omega automatic calibre 3113. This new movement, besides being self-winding instead of manual wound, features a column wheel chronograph mechanism, co-axial escapement and a power reserve of 52 hours when fully wound. On the new movement the left chrono pusher is used to start/stop the 30-minute chrono at 12 o'clock and the right pusher is used to reset the chrono back to zero. The watch is fitted with a nice fluted screw-in crown and is waterproof rated to a depth of 150 meters. The crown at 6 o'clock rotates in both directions to move the inner bezel in clockwise or counterclockwise direction. The watch is fitted with a nice sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides that provides excellent readability of the time at any angle —just see for yourself.

In order to maintain its robustness, the watch is fitted with a solid screw-in case back that is stamped with the familiar polished Seamaster Seahorse and the limited edition engravings. Something worth noting, is that the top part of the back of the case is slightly curved to position the watch on the wrist at an angle, allowing the wearer to look at the time without needing to turn the wrist and have the watch face you. You can appreciate that curvature on the third picture below.

To complete its racing look, the new Omega Seamaster Bullhead 'rallye' is equipped with a vulcanized black leather strap with perforations and red contrast stitching matching the hands of the chronograph. The strap is fitted with a deployant buckle with the Omega symbol on relief.

On the wrist, the watch wears slightly smaller than its actual size but very comfortably. The fact that you can look at the time without having to turn your wrist all the way around is definitely a very convenient solution for those wanting to check the time while driving without the need to take their hand of the wheel. Just imagine yourself sporting this fascinating watch while driving an iconic Porsche 911 from the 60s. Wouldn't that be the perfect pair?

Special thanks to our friends at the Omega Boutique in Chicago for letting us come and check this watch that just made it in.

Sticker Price $9,600 USD. For more info on Omega click here.

Posted on February 14, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Omega and tagged Omega Seamaster Bullhead Omega ref. 225.12.43.50.02.001 Omega ref. 225.12.43.50.04.001 Omega ref. 225.12.43.50.01.001 Omega Sport Chic Bullhead Omega Rallye Dial Bullhead 2014.

Insider: Panerai Galileo Galilei's Pendulum Clock PAM 500. A 30-Piece Limited Edition.

The pendulum of Galileo Galilei, the “measurer of time” which marked a turning point in horology because it opened the doors of the modern era, now beats again thanks to Officine Panerai and its new Pendulum Clock. This is a faithful reproduction of the instrument designed by Galileo to demonstrate that the law of isochronism of small oscillations of the pendulum – the period of oscillation of pendulums of equal length is constant regardless of the amplitude of oscillation —could be applied to the measurement of time. Galileo’s discovery in the 17th century represented a real revolution, because it enabled clocks to progress from an error of several minutes per day to one of just a few seconds. The escape wheel designed by the Tuscan scientist is recognized as the first free escapement in history and the Pendulum Clock therefore represents an operation of exceptional historic importance and technical mastery, underlining once again the link between Galileo, Florence, Science and Officine Panerai. The application of the pendulum to timekeeping is a long and painful story: Galileo could not develop his intuition of 1641 since he was by then almost blind, so its realisation was entrusted to his son Vincenzo. Galileo died in the following year and the project lay dormant for a long time until, in 1649, his son decided to complete it. A blacksmith made the iron frame and the wheels and pinions in their crude state while Vincenzo Galilei himself cut the teeth of the escapement. Unfortunately he too died a few months later and the model, still incomplete but probably operational, remained in oblivion for some time.

Painting of Galileo Galilei and Vincenzo Viviani by Tito Lessi.

It was in 1659 that Vincenzo Viviani, friend and biographer of Galileo, recovered the model at the request of Leopoldo de Medici and brought it to the Florentine prince together with a drawing. And it is only the latter which survives, because all trace of the machine itself has been lost: the drawing now preserved in Florence illustrates the structure and the principle of operation of this instrument which gave physical form to the intuition which Galileo had had years earlier and to the formulation of the laws of isochronism.

Drawing of the Implementation of the Pendulum Law to the Clock.

The Pendulum Clock is based on the model made by the Florentine clockmaker Eustachio Porcellotti in 1887 from this original drawing, a model which is now preserved in the Museo Galileo in Florence. The winding system and the dial are not shown in the drawing. Galileo believed that isochronism had resolved all the defects of clocks: this was the fundamental point of his discovery, and he was therefore not concerned with what type of motive power should be used or with the design of the dial. For him these were secondary details, which, however, may have been hinted at in the model shown to Prince Leopoldo de’ Medici because a writing by Vincenzo Viviani mentions a “clock of iron, unfinished, with pendulum, Galileo’s first invention”. Porcellotti added both a barrel with the mainspring and a dial with Roman numerals to his model, thus completing the instrument by indicating hours and minutes.

Clock by Eustachio Porcellotti circa 1887.

The remarkable new Officine Panerai production interprets Porcellotti’s work almost exactly.
The height of the Pendulum Clock is 35.6 cm, the width 18.5 cm and the depth 11.1 cm: the
dimensions of this table clock are taken from the original drawing and they are confirmed by the few other reliable reconstructions. The frame consists of two main plates, which are made not of iron, as in the original model and Porcellotti’s, but of brass, plated with nickel-palladium, and they are joined by crosspieces at the top and the bottom fixed in the traditional way by taper pins.

The upper crosspiece carries the escapement and the pendulum suspension, while the lower one connects the lower parts of the frame plates which are formed into four scrolled feet. Between the base and the dial is the spring barrel, the drum of which contains a spring 4.10 meters long which powers the clock for eight days. The clock is wound by turning the square winding arbor with a key, while a ratchet with its related spring is mounted above the center of the spring barrel to prevent it unwinding.

Higher up is the sandblasted glass dial with Roman numerals, like that of the 1887 model, with black-lacquered hands. The wheels with their hand-finished teeth, the bezel surrounding the dial, the spring barrel and other details are all gold plated. Composed of 153 components and one barrel, the clock provides an eight day power reserve when fully wound.

The fundamental part of the clock is the regulating pendulum and escapement designed by
Galileo. This consists of an escape wheel with 12 pins fitted to its side and 12 teeth cut in its
perimeter, and three levers, one on the left as you look at the clock and two on the right. The
one on the left, the longest lever which ends with a hook, is the stopping lever; the two on the
right, arranged like scissors, are the release and impulse levers.

While the wheel is in its stopped phase, the pendulum is completely free from any contact with it, and for this reason the device is called a “free escapement”. The pendulum itself consists of a rod terminating with a gold plated ovoid lenticular bob, with the screw for adjusting the period of oscillation below it. On the lower crosspiece is a place for keeping the key for winding the clock.

The Pendulum Clock is mounted on a mahogany base, with a hinged plate on the front on which the name of the model is engraved; underneath the plate is a bubble level, indispensable since the clock must be perfectly horizontal to run accurately. The base is leveled by turning the four adjustable feet of the wooden base. Completing the Pendulum Clock is a glass case, with a black-lacquered aluminum frame and a door at the front enabling the clock to be wound and its hands to be set. The Panerai Pendulum Clock is made in 30 numbered units, sold only in the Officine Panerai boutiques around the world.

Sticker Price $43,200 USD. For more info on Panerai click here.

Posted on February 13, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Panerai and tagged Panerai Galileo Galilei's Pendulum Clock Vincenzo Viviani Galileo Galilei Leopoldo de Medici Panerai PAM 500 2014.

Insider: Richard Mille RM 60-01 Flyback Chronograph Regatta. A Technical Watch for Navigating the Seven Seas.

With the RM 60-01 Regatta Flyback Chronograph, Richard Mille presents his first technical watch for navigating the seven seas. Powered by the grade 5 titanium RMAC2 caliber with its 55 hours of power reserve, variable inertia balance, complete flyback chronograph functions, annual calendar with oversize date and UTC function, the RM 60-01 adds navigational capabilities thanks to its special rotating bezel with indications of the four cardinal points combined with a graduated 360° and a 24-hour scale disk.

The massive titanium grade 5 case measuring 50 mm in diameter and 16.33 mm in thickness, features a unique four-part structure. The system is completed by the incorporation of horns in the case assembly. The four-part case of the RM 60-01 is very difficult to make. After a turning operation lasting 1 hour and 40 minutes, no less than 800 milling operations are required, taking several hours. Machining demands nearly 11 hours of separate operations. It is followed by a meticulous quality control procedure that takes a full day for each case. The 3 pushers, their components and the crown of the RM 60-01 require 10 days of machining, during which they undergo numerous tests for water-resistance and quality control, followed by the manual brushing and polishing of the entire case. All of these stages are vital in producing the characteristic ergonomic quality of Richard Mille watches.

Using the RM 60-01 is based on two factors: knowledge of local time and the position of the sun. To calculate one’s location, the UTC indicator is directed towards the sun using the UTC pusher located at 9 o’clock and then the bezel is turned so that that the UTC hand lines up with the actual local time engraved on the bezel’s circumference.

When set in this manner, the compass headings North, South, East and West on the bezel will be correctly aligned with the actual direction on the Earth’s surface. What differentiates the RM 60-01 form other similar types of watches is its ability to orientate within the northern as well as southern hemispheres without any additional calculations. As an additional safety precaution, the chronograph pushers have a special quick locking and releasing mechanism. Locking —red arrow— and unlocking —green arrow— the flyback chronograph pushers requires only a quick turn of the secondary crown, thus avoiding possible accidental changes of the chronograph readout.

The beating heart inside this new timepiece presented at the SIHH 2014, is the Richard Mille Calibre RMAC2 automatic movement with hours, minutes, running seconds at 3 o’clock, oversize date, month, annual calendar, Flyback chronograph with central seconds counter, and 30 minute countdown timer at 9 o’clock, 24 hour totalizer at 6 o’clock, UTC function and adjustable rotor geometry. When fully wound the calibre provides a power reserve of 50 hours. The components of the movement are in grade 5 titanium with black PVD coating and the movement features 62 jewels, an Elinvar balance spring and Rubifix transparent escapement wheel jewels. As usual, the beautiful calibre is fully visible via the display case back.

Sticker Price $150,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.

Posted on February 12, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Richard Mille and tagged Richard Mille RM60-01 Regatta Flyback Richard Mille Calibre RMAC2 2014.

News: Officine Panerai Opens its 10th North American Boutique. This Time in Aspen, Colorado.

Last month, Italian watchmaker Officine Panerai announced its U.S. retail expansion by unveiling its largest boutique in North America to date in Aspen, Colorado. The Aspen location is Panerai’s 10th U.S. boutique, and its 63rd worldwide, and displays the high-end sports watch brand’s recent global architectural design concept that showcases the finest elements of Italian style and engineering, as well as highlights the company’s nautical history. Located in the heart of Aspen’s renowned high-end shopping district, Panerai’s new 1,255 square foot boutique is located in a two-storied landmark building with sweeping views of Aspen Mountain and features an expansive sales area, library and VIP lounge for customers to experience the Panerai brand.

To celebrate the official opening, Panerai will participate as a Presenting Sponsor of the Light It Up Blue Aspen Gala in support of Autism Speaks and Extreme Sports Camp on Sunday, February 16th which will be held at The Hotel Jerome in the ski resort town. For the gala’s live auction, Panerai will donate an Aspen Special Edition Luminor Marina 44mm PAM 00467, #1 of the limited edition series, in brushed steel. This highly-coveted Special Edition timepiece bears a unique engraving on the case back depicting the Rocky Mountains and Aspen Mountain, and will be presented to the highest bidder by Panerai North American President Rafael Alvarez at a private event at the Panerai Boutique the following evening.

In addition to welcoming dignitaries from Autism Speaks and key influencers from the local community, the event will continue with a private cocktail reception on February 17th dedicated to local-area watch enthusiasts who will come together to view Panerai’s latest collection and get to know each other in an Italian-inspired congenial atmosphere. To further support Autism Speaks and its local Aspen-affiliate Extreme Sports Camp, Panerai will donate a percentage of proceeds for sales made throughout the week to the two non-profit organizations. Mr. Alvarez commented, “We’re delighted to participate in Light It Up Blue Aspen, in support of Autism Awareness and we’re grateful to the Aspen community for giving Panerai such a warm welcome this winter season. We look forward to lots more community involvement in the years ahead.”

Jill Pidcock, Director of Development for Extreme Sports Camp which is collaborating with Autism Speaks on the Light It Up Blue Aspen events, added “Light It Up Blue Aspen is honored to have Officine Panerai as a Presenting Sponsor for our 3rd annual Gala. Raising awareness and funding for autism is critical in so many lives; we appreciate that Officine Panerai also recognizes the importance of this effort. It is very gratifying to have such wonderful support in our own Aspen area community.”

For more info on Panerai click here.

Posted on February 11, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Panerai, News, Watch Shopping and tagged New Panerai Boutique Aspen Colorado Rafael Alvarez Autism Speaks Light It Up Blue Aspen 2014.