Insider: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Breva Genève Génie 02 Terre. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Following the success and ground breaking technology behind the Génie 01 with barometer, Breva Genève presented the Breva Génie 02 Terre a few weeks ago during the week of the SIHH in the city of Geneva. This new watch combines the stunning sophistication of a beautifully crafted mechanical timepiece with the practicality of a fully functional, high-performance mechanical altimeter. The Génie 02 Terre is a limited edition of 55 pieces in titanium G5 and is available with either meter or feet calibrations on the altimeter.

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The superbly finished proprietary movement —with a power reserve of 65 hours—, much of which can be fully appreciated through the open dial and display case back, was developed exclusively for Breva by award-winning movement constructor Jean-François Mojon from Chronode. Génie 02 Terre is 100% Swiss-made, from inception to realization. The dial side is dominated by a sub-dial at 8 o'clock displaying hours and minutes, and the precision altimeter sub-dial at 2 o'clock displaying meters or feet. Arching around the top of the dial is the large-scale altitude indicator, which displays up to 5,000 meters —16,400 feet—, with small seconds below. At 4 o'clock, an indicator shows when the air valve is open or closed —it must be open to indicate the altitude—, below which is the 65-hour power reserve indicator. In pride of place at the bottom of the dial, the top of one of the two aneroid capsules measuring air pressure —from which the altitude is derived— is visible, with a high-precision arm multiplying by 200 times the expansion and contraction of the capsules and relaying the air pressure to the two altitude indications.

Three chevron-engraved crowns wind, set, adjust and operate the functions of Génie 02:

a. 9 o'clock: Two-position crown both winds the movement and sets the time.

b. 2 o'clock: A screw down crown rotates both the altitude's precision-scale and large-scale to adjust for variations in air pressure, which affect altitude readings.

c. 4 o'clock: Screw down crown either seals air out of the movement or allows it in —for altitude function. Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture and humidity from any air before it enters the movement. Just above the crown, a white indicator marked 'SEALED' warns when valve is locked.

Turning the Génie 02 Terre over, the complexity of the beautifully finished 415-component movement can be more fully appreciated. The movement is framed by the names of prestigious ski resorts − Aspen, Vail, Las Lenas, Gstaad, St Moritz, Zermatt, Courchevel, Cortina, Kitzbuhel, and Lech − along with their altitudes, engraved around the perimeter of the case back. When winding the movement you can see the rotation of the cap of the mainspring barrel.

On the wrist the new Breva Genève Génie 02 Terre is extremely comfortable as it is fitted with a very nice black rubber strap with pin buckle. The watch wears true to its size and very light on the wrist thanks to the lightness of the titanium used for its 44.7 mm case.

Sticker Price $132,000 USD. For more info on Breva Genève click here.

Posted on February 10, 2014 and filed under Baselworld, Other Brands, Breva.

Macros: All The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshores in 42mm from SIHH 2014. Stunning Under the Lens.

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Nothing better than a short post with some powerful images for a relaxing Sunday morning. Enjoy these macros that we took during the presentation of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 42mm collection at the SIHH 2014 last month. These images shows the beauty behind these new models in a very special way. Now, enjoy the eye candy!

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Posted on February 9, 2014 and filed under Audemars Piguet.

Insider: Omega Co-Axial Speedmaster Moonwatch 'Dark Side of the Moon' Black Ceramic. Weighing Only 91 Grams.

The Omega Speedmaster 'Dark Side of the Moon' was presented last year at Baselworld; however, almost a year later, it's still somewhat difficult to find at authorized dealers, the Tourbillon Boutiques or the Omega boutiques —even getting our hands on a 'press loaner' has been almost impossible. Every time one of these watches hits a boutique is gone within a few days or even hours. Luckily last week, we received a call from our friends at the Omega boutique here in Chicago —as they had just received one— and allowed us to do a quick review of the watch. 

As you all know, the Omega Speedmaster is one of the most iconic watches in the world, a watch that was originally launched in 1957 and that since its landing on the moon it has been awarded as the 'Moonwatch'. The Apollo 8 astronauts were the first people to see the dark side of the moon with their own eyes and the black ceramic Co-Axial Speedmaster salutes their pioneering spirit and pays homage to the Speedmaster Professional chronographs worn by every Apollo astronaut. This timepiece is the product of groundbreaking technologies and crafted from a single block of black zirconium oxide ceramic. The Omega Co-Axial Speedmaster 'Dark Side of the Moon' redefines the iconic design of the Moonwatch and its name evokes the mysteriousness and allure of space. This Co-Axial Speedmaster Moonwatch 'Dark Side of the Moon' in black ceramic ref. 311.92.44.51.01.003 is fitted with a case measuring 44.25 mm in diameter —just like the stainless steel and titanium models— and fitted with a rugged black coated nylon strap with red contrast stitching on the back lining and a black ceramic pin buckle.

The black ceramic case on this watch is extremely light —total weight of the watch is only 91 grams— and very nicely finished with alternating brushed and polished areas. Its highly polished black dial features two counters with raised borders and silver/white numbers. The chrono-counter at 3 o'clock keeps track of the hours and minutes for the chronograph function, while the counter at 9 o'clock indicates the running seconds of the watch. A convenient and discreet date aperture is located at 6 o'clock with a black calendar disc with white font and the seconds hand for the chrono features a perfectly contrasting red tip that matches the red 'Speedmaster' imprint on the dial.

The matte chromium nitride tachymeter scale is among the most identifiable design features of the Speedmaster and is engraved using state-of-the-art laser technology. The silver engraved numbers stand out from the polished ceramic bezel in a very nice way and the bezel is complemented by the beautifully done pushers of the chronograph. The crown rounds up the look of the watch with the Omega logo also engraved using the same technology.

The watch features a display case back with a sapphire crystal that almost looks like a thick plexiglass but that is way more rounded and flatter than that on the stainless steel model —we have included pictures of the case back on both watches so you can see for yourself. The case back also features a beautiful chromium nitride laser engraving of the words 'Dark Side of the Moon' that enhance the look of the back of the watch even more. The beating heart inside this new timepiece is the automatic in-house Omega caliber 9300 with a power reserve of 60 hours.

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This new Speedmaster 'Dark Side of the Moon' wears as comfortably as all other 44.25 mm Speedmasters and perhaps a little bit better as it is extremely light. On the wrist, the watch seems smaller than its actual dimensions due to the highly reflective black ceramic case but nonetheless with an outstanding wrist presence.

Sticker Price $12,000 USD. For more info on Omega click here.

Insider: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Sochi 2014 Limited Edition. One of Our Favorite Planet Ocean Watches.

As you know, the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is one of our favorite watches from this manufacture. Its robustness, movement and design are the perfect combination for a great every day watch that can take on the daily abuse while providing great wrist presence. The Planet Ocean Seamaster 600M collection is available in 45.5 mm, 42 mm or 37.5 mm and with a wide variety of dials, straps, bezels, limited editions and even featuring a chronograph or a GMT complication.

Since the Sochi 2014 Olympic Winter Games had begun today, here we are presenting you the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Sochi 2014 Limited Edition ref. 522.30.46.21.01.001 that pays tribute to the Sochi 2014 Olympic Winter Games in Russia and where Omega is the official timekeeper. This beautiful watch available in a limited edition of 2,014 pieces comes with the same features and specs as the regular 45.5 mm model; however, in order to differentiate this special watch from the ordinary Planet Ocean watches, the black ceramic unidirectional rotating divers’ bezel has been redesigned to include the colors of the flag of the Russian Federation —red and blue— as accents on the first ten minutes of the diving scale and the "Seamaster" imprint on the dial is bright red instead of the traditional white or orange. For this particular model, Omega has selected to go with the stainless steel case measuring 45.5 mm in diameter.

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Sochi 2014 Limited Edition is waterproof rated to a depth of 600 meters/2000 feet and has a helium-escape valve at 10 o'clock. The beating heart inside this watch is the Omega calibre 8500 which provides a power reserve of 60 hours when fully wound. One important thing to consider when buying any of the new Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M watches, is that the calibre 8500 doesn't feature the typical quick-set calendar function but instead it features a rapid advance mechanism where the hour hand needs to be independently advanced 24-hours in order to adjust the date. While this new calendar feature guarantees perfect time setting when traveling across different timezones —without losing minute synchronization—, we feel that sometimes it could be bothersome having to set the date this way after not wearing the watch for more than five days.

Opposed to the rest of the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M collection, this watch is not fitted with a sapphire crystal display case back but with a solid case back carefully engraved with the OIympic Games logo and the pertaining limited edition information. We are glad that this watch is fitted with a solid case back as we feel that diving watches appear more robust and rugged this way. As expected from any Omega watch, the case and bracelet are beautifully finished with alternating satin-brushed and polished areas.

On the wrist, the watch wears extremely comfortable just as all other Planet Ocean watches and with fantastic wrist presence. However, when compared to the older version —aluminum bezel insert— of the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M, the watch wears slightly smaller due to the added thickness of the new bezel setup and the new 8500 calibre fitted in the watch.

Sticker Price $6,600 USD. For more info on Omega click here. 

Insider: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin Tourbillon. The Prototype in Stainless Steel.

During our visit to the SIHH 2014 in Geneva a few weeks ago, we ran into a handful of fascinating timepieces worth talking about. This time is the turn for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin Tourbillon ref. 26511PT.OO.1220PT.01, which is one of the thinnest tourbillon movements in the market. This watch is only available in a limited series of 40 pieces in platinum and fortunately enough, we were able to witness the stainless steel prototype of this watch —featured here— during our meeting with Audemars Piguet. This fascinating timepiece was launched to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak in 2012 and is as exceptional as it gets.

Fitted with a 950 platinum case measuring 41 mm in diameter and only 8.85 mm in thickness, this exceptional timepiece is fitted with anti-reflective treated sapphire crystals on front and back and the most beautiful openworked slate grey dial we have seen in a very long time. The openworked —skeletonized— dial features an anthracite galvanic treatment, white gold applied hour-markers, hands with luminescent coating and a platinum tourbillon at 6 o'clock.

The beating heart inside this timepiece is the manual wound Audemars Piguet calibre 2924 composed of 216 parts, 25 jewels, a thickness of 4.46 mm and which provides a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound. This calibre also includes a discreet power reserve indicator and is a real treat for the eyes.

Fitted with the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak bracelet, this watch is just as comfortable as any other Royal Oak on the wrist. The wrist presence is unparalleled and this watch is another perfect example of why 'to break the rules you first must master them'. Special thanks to Audemars Piguet for letting us peruse this very special timepiece during our visit at the SIHH 2014. Until next year!!!

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Insider: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Romain Jerome Presents the New 1969 Silicium Collection. Live Pictures of Four Fascinating New Watches with a New Case Design.

In preparation for Baselworld, Romain Jerome presents an explosive cosmic collision bringing together the intrinsic DNA of its brand with a new case design and makes two worlds collide with its new 1969 collection. Continuing its conquest of the solar system and flirting once again with the infinity of space, Romain Jerome offers a new perspective of its Moon-DNA collection by presenting four new 1969 timepieces. Introducing a retro, vintage design and a lighter 43 mm case, the new 1969 timepieces reflect a nostalgic and bygone era of thin, geometrical clean lines combined with colorful, animated dials that will transport their owners into the mystical world of outer space.

On the first version, the avant-garde Maison shines light on the dial crafted with a new component, brought to us directly from outer-space and formed within the solar nebula disk billions of years ago: the Meteorite. Often referred to as “The crust of other worlds”, the meteorite is the most solid layer of any extraterrestrial rock found on earth. Romain Jerome has chosen a type of meteorite much rarer than platinum or gold: Chondrites —this type of meteorite can be differentiated from iron meteorites due to its low iron and nickel content. This 1969 Meteorite satin-finished steel timepiece is tinted with man’s dreams of the great unknown as most Meteorites, which have impacted the earth, are thought to have originated from the Asteroid belt between Jupiter and Mars.

Always using innovative materials, Romain Jerome has also found inspiration in Mother Earth’s treasures for the dials of three other 1969 timepieces. Commonly referred to as “Si” in the periodic table, the brand has used silicon on the dials of the 1969 models. Silicon, a.k.a Silicium represents 90% of the Earth’s crust and is commonly used, once highly purified, as a semiconductor in most electronics today as well as in manufactured movements. The 1969 Silicium line, presented in blue, grey and brown, this natural translucent and very fragile element is colored using a special PVD process giving the colors a textured finish highlighting each bold detail of this natural element. Echoing the 1969 Heavy Metal Meteorite, the blue and grey Silicon dials are also perfectly fitted in a satin-finished steel cases —1969 Heavy Metal Blue Silicium and 1969 Heavy Metal Grey Silicium— whereas the infinity of space is featured with a brown dial integrated into a black PVD-coated steel case and bezel on the 1969 Black Metal Brown Silicium.

The small seconds counter applied at 9 o’clock onto every 1969 dial replicates, the visor used by the astronauts to guide the LEM safely onto the surface of the moon. The crown holds, on its extremity, prints left on the moon by the landing pads of the lunar module. Furthermore the markers and the skeletonized hour, minute and second hand’s tips have been enhanced with superluminova, emitting an electric blue luminescence in the dark.

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Other interesting details are the paws that secure the bezel and represent the emblematic X shape featured on all Romain Jerome timepieces. The case backs are textured with a grainy stellar pattern and decorated with a medallion made from RJ’s Moon SilverRJ —a silver alloy developed by Romain Jerome with an extremely low oxidation rate incorporating moon dust interacting on an infra-molecular level with the wearer of the watch creating a cosmic patina with time reproducing the lunar surface. The beating heart inside these new timepieces is the Romain Jerome automatic calibre RJ003-A fitted with 30 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 40 hours while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. Lastly, all four watches are waterproof to a depth of 30 meters.

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By using cutting edge materials Romain Jerome highlights its recognizable design codes. The new case size and use of cosmic elements reflect the brands commitment to the conquest of space and to its continuous homage to contemporary legends. The new 1969 is a cosmic collision between man’s dream of other worlds and true watchmaking precision. All four watches are fitted with black alligator straps with pin buckle. While the three stainless steel models are available in a limited edition of 99 pieces each, the Black PVD model is available in a limited edition of only 25 pieces.

Sticker Price $10,500 USD for Silicium Colored dial models. $11,500 USD for Meteorite dial model. For more info on Romain Jerome click here.

Reference Information

1969 Black Metal Brown Silicium ref. RJ.M.AU.020.06, Silicium with brown PVD finish dial and PVD case.

1969 Heavy Metal Blue Silicium ref. RJ.M.AU.020.02, Silicium with blue PVD finish dial.

1969 Heavy Metal Grey Silicium ref. RJ.M.AU.020.05, Silicium with grey PVD finish dial.

1969 Heavy Metal Meteorite ref. RJ.M.AU.020.03, Meteorite dial.

SIHH 2014: Van Cleef & Arpels Presents the Pierre Arpels Heure d'ici & Heure d'ailleurs. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Created in 1949, the Pierre Arpels watch has epitomized Van Cleef & Arpels’ vision of masculinity. A perfect blend of sophistication and understatement, it is notable for an exceptionally thin case held by two unobtrusive central strap attachments. In 2012, the Maison reinterpreted this icon of watchmaking and has since enriched the collection with new models that reflect Pierre Arpels’ way of life. An aesthete, designer and businessman, Estelle Arpels’ nephew was also a socialite and a traveler: two facets to which Van Cleef & Arpels pays homage at the SIHH 2014 with this new timepiece the Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs in an 18K white gold case measuring 42 mm in diameter. With this new Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs timepiece, the Maison presents an understated and poetic interpretation of travel —the way that Pierre Arpels appreciated it.

For the first time, the Pierre Arpels collection welcomes a dual time complicated watch, reflecting Van Cleef & Arpels Poetry of Time. Developed in partnership with Agenhor —Atelier Genevois d’Horlogerie—, this exclusive automatic movement is distinguished by its double jumping hour and minute retrograde display on a beautiful white lacquer dial with 'piqué' motif on the center. The hour that acts as the reference —displayed in the aperture at the top of the dial— and the hour of the second time zone that appears in the lower aperture both jump at the same time, thanks to a single sector that synchronizes the two hour discs and the retrograde minute hand. When the latter reaches 60 minutes on the graduated scale, it returns to its starting position at the same instant that the hour display changes.

In order to maintain the thinness of the case —a distinguishing feature of the Pierre Arpels collection— the automatic movement is equipped with a platinum micro-rotor that takes up remarkably little space. By oscillating in two directions, it can supply energy continuously. The movement, which is visible through the display case back, is adorned with a snailed pattern on the bridges, the Van Cleef & Arpels hallmark and a blue lacquered design on the micro-rotor that echoes the 'piqué' motif on the dial.

The watch is fitted with a super glossy black alligator strap with pin buckle. The strap is very comfortable and nicely finished to match the exceptional look of this new timepiece.

On the wrist, the watch wears true to its size and with a very thin profile. The understated elegance of this timepiece is remarkable and the wrist presence incomparable. The Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs is definitely a timepiece that embraces the principles of this Maison and a perfect example of 'haute horlogerie'.

Sticker Price $41,000 USD. For more info on Van Cleef & Arpels click here.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Ulysse Nardin Presents the Dual Time Manufacture. A Fascinating Dual Time Complication.

The Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture has being released as a pre-Baselworld first look. This timepiece enables the second time zone and date to be adjusted both forward and backward. Like the Marine collection, it is now equipped with a movement that has been developed and manufactured entirely in-house. Never before had a watchmaker so perfectly fulfilled the desire for comfort of frequent travelers and explorers. Part of an iconic Ulysse Nardin collection, the launch of the Dual Time Manufacture was a significant milestone in the history of contemporary watchmaking. For the first time, it was possible to adjust the second time zone forward as well as backward. Now, this incredible timepiece returns equipped with an automatic movement that has been developed, designed and manufactured entirely in-house: caliber UN-334. Endowed with a Big Date double window display, also adjustable in both directions, it boasts a silicon escapement, the height of watchmaking technology that very few brands are able to master. Complex to work with, its manufacturing techniques remain the prerogative of just a handful of watchmakers. The self-winding movement, a technological gem, is showcased through a sapphire case-back.

Independence through innovation: the Ulysse Nardin Manufacture constantly pursues the steep but extraordinarily worthwhile path it chose to take a few years ago. Offering hours, minutes, oversized small seconds at 6 o’clock, a big date double window display and second time zone functions, the Dual Time Manufacture is without doubt one of the easiest watches to read and adjust on the market. While the “home time” indicator advances steadily over 24 hours in an aperture at 9 o’clock, the small hand can easily be aligned with local time, either forward or backward. This is achieved simply by pressing the (+) or (-) pushers positioned at 10 o'clock and 8 o’clock, without having to remove the watch from the wrist or interrupting its timekeeping. The ultimate in mechanical refinement, the calendar function automatically synchronizes with adjustments made in either direction.

Behind this simplicity of use —a true lesson in functionality— the Manufacture caliber UN-334 deploys the results of many years of research. Featuring a 48-hour power reserve, it is equipped with a silicon anchor, escape wheel and roller. The 4 Hz oscillator also has a patented 1.1.1. silicon balance spring, guaranteeing impressive accuracy. Having made its watchmaking début a little over 10 years ago thanks to the pioneering efforts of Ulysse Nardin, this highly contemporary material requires hardly any lubrication and resists wear more than any other.

The bold modernity of this outstanding timepiece is complemented by a few classic touches, for an air of casual elegance. This chameleon-like piece is equally suited to a day in town or an important occasion. Water resistant to 30 m, its completely redesigned 42 mm-diameter case is available in steel or 18 ct rose gold, mounted on a leather strap or a steel or rose gold bracelet with deployment buckle. While ensuring perfect readability, the openwork hour and minute hands that sweep around the black or silver-finish dial add a delicate, light touch that characterizes truly timeless watches. This chameleon-like piece is equally suited to a day in town or an important occasion.

For more info on Ulysse Nardin click here.

News: Panerai Presents the Luminor Sealand Special Edition PAM 847. Honoring the Year of the Horse with a 100 Piece Limited Edition.

Officine Panerai is pleased to present a special edition timepiece dedicated to the Year of the Horse - the PAM 00847 Luminor Sealand – with a 44 mm diameter case. The classic and iconic Luminor case features a hinged cover protector with a horse symbol hand engraved by Italian master craftsmen.  The technique of engraving is particularly painstaking – the grooves are made in the steel by a special tool called a 'sparsello' before being inlaid with threads of gold. The gold is inserted in repeated parallel layers and hammered until it completely fills the engraved outlines, thus defining and filling out the form of the horse. The process of inlaying the gold is carried out only after the cover has been engraved and polished, when even the smallest error could damage the work carried out earlier, so the work demands remarkable skill on the part of the craftsmen.

Few places in the world can pride themselves on a history and richness comparable to Florence. Emblematic of the Italian Renaissance and birthplace of some of the greatest geniuses of all time, Tuscany’s great city has inspired generations of thinkers and artists who have given the world many works of extraordinary beauty throughout the centuries. The excellence of Florence, like that of Italy in general, is always at its best in the combination of genius, craftsmanship, creativity and technical expertise in all forms of artistic expression. The Panerai Bottega in Florence, the first watch shop in the city, is still nourished by this culture, constantly striving towards its mission of balancing tradition and innovation.

This excellence of craftsmanship and Italian know-how is linked with Chinese culture in the Luminor Sealand. Dedicated to the Year of the Horse, the new Special Edition timepiece is limited to just 100 units and is part of the series created by Officine Panerai in honor of the signs of the Chinese Zodiac. The watch is the sixth in the exclusive series, which began in 2009 with the Special Edition created for the year of the Ox, followed by watches commemorating the year of the Tiger, the Rabbit, the Dragon and the Snake. 

The protective conceals the minimalist grey dial which, in the classic Panerai style, features only a small seconds dial and date. This is fitted in a Luminor 44 mm case which, along with the device protecting the winding crown, is made entirely  of brushed AISI 316L stainless steel. The movement is the OP III calibre, hand-wound with a power reserve of 42 hours and C.O.S.C. certified. Available exclusively in Panerai boutiques throughout the world, the Luminor Sealand —PAM00847— is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters and it is supplied with a strap of soft brown leather, a second spare strap and a screwdriver.

For more info on Panerai click here.

Posted on February 4, 2014 and filed under Panerai, News.

Rare Bird: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatique Tourbillon 25th Anniversary. Only Five Pieces Ever Made in 18K Rose Gold.

During our week in Geneva attending the SIHH 2014, we ran into some very interesting timepieces, some highly collectible grails and one watch in particular, that took our breath away. While meeting with one of our special friends from Audemars Piguet, we had the opportunity to peruse, perhaps one of the most unique and rare Royal Oaks ever made, the Royal Oak Automatique Tourbillon 25th Anniversary ref. 25831 of which only 5 pieces were ever made in 18K rose gold to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the creation of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. This exceptional limited edition watch was produced in very limited quantities in stainless steel —only 25 pieces—, 18K yellow gold —5 pieces—, 950 platinum —5 with blue dial and 5 with salmon dial— and it is the only Royal Oak Tourbillon fitted with an automatic calibre. It is also known, that there's one unique piece in a combination of 18K rose gold and 18K white gold created specifically for the Sultan of Brunei.

This particular watch bearing serial number 1 comes with an 18K rose gold case measuring 40 mm in diameter, an ivory off-white 'petite tapisserie' dial with off-centered hours and minutes, date indicator at 3, power reserve indicator at 9 and a tourbillon at 6 o'clock that is framed by a miniature squeezed octagonal Royal Oak bezel. The hands on the date and power reserve indicators are blued and the markers and hands on the off-centered hour/minute dial are fitted with luminescent material.

In case you have not noticed yet, the peculiarity of this timepiece, is that it lacks of a winding crown on the case band at 3 o'clock. In order to wind and set the time, the watch is fitted with a special crown on the case back right above the Royal Oak engraving. This timepiece is powered by the Audemars Piguet automatic calibre 2875 and it is known to be the only automatic Royal Oak Tourbillon ever made.

On the wrist, this watch is nothing but perfect. We were even lucky enough to make it fit on our wrist for the mandatory wrist shot. As some of you like to say on the watch forums: "wrist shot or it didn't happen". Well, here's a wrist shot for those of you wondering if this really happened or not, for those of you still wondering whether this is a day dream, just pinch yourselves twice to make sure you it is not and you are indeed reading this post.

Sticker Price 'Priceless'. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

SIHH 2104: A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase. Live Pictures and Pricing.

During the SIHH 2014 in Geneva, A. Lange & Söhne officially unveiled the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase that gives the exactly calculated to 122.6 years moon phase display a shiny appearance on the dial. A patented method of coating the moon's disk gives this astronomical complication a highly detailed appearance. The moon is a fascinating celestial body. It determines not only the tides, but also affects the rhythm of life of many creatures and plants. A moon phase display is therefore highly appreciated by many watch lovers. This new watch is available in three different metals: platinum, 18K pink gold and 18K yellow gold.

Since its relaunch, the Saxon manufacture has presented twelve models with such a complication. However, never before the moon phase display has been so prominent as it is in the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase. The popular astronomical display received a large stage on the dial. You can now clearly see how the moon phase display follows the actual phases of the moon in a remarkably realistic manner because it is linked to the continuum of the hour. Thus, it is — just like the moon itself— always on the move and in such small steps that you cannot detect this movement with the naked eye.

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In addition, the moon phase indicator represents the time from new moon to new moon with an accuracy of 99.9978 percent. 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds , the average synod lunar months. For simplicity, the cycle is therefore rounded in most classical moon phase displays to 29.5 days. This leads per cycle to a deviation of 44 minutes and 3 seconds, which adds up after two and a half years to one day. The much more accurately calculated seven-gear on the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase reduces the deviation per lunar cycle to less than a minute. Once set up properly, you would have to correct the display by one day after 122.6 years. With a corrector push piece between 7 and 8 o'clock on the case band, the display can be adjusted.

The solid gold moon disc testifies the perfection claim of the Lange product developers. The result of extensive research and development work is a patented coating process that through an unparalleled color brilliance and sharpness of all the details meets the highest aesthetic standards. Due to interference effects —the superposition of reflections— all non-blue color components of the incoming daylight are absorbed. So is in the eye of the beholder an intensely blue color impression. The more than 300 stars of different size are cut so sharply drawn with a laser that they act like a miniaturized representation of the Milky Way.

With the combination of decentralized dial design, large date and technically advanced caliber, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase bears all the marks of the most famous family of watches from A. Lange & Söhne. The calibre with an impressive power reserve of 72 hours is only 4.7 mm thick thanks to the use of only one barrel. The case, available in yellow gold, rose gold or platinum has a diameter of 41.0 mm. With a balance spring developed and manufactured in-house, a three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver and intricately hand decorated parts, the Lange calibre L095.3 features all the classic elements of the timepieces from this manufacture.

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Sticker Price 38,900 Euro for 18K Pink gold or 18K Yellow gold. 50,900 Euro for Platinum. For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.

SIHH 2014: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Jewellery with Mother-of-Pearl Dial. Live Pictures.

In their 60 diamond-set —approximately one total carat— 18K white gold cases measuring 35 mm in diameter and 7.9 mm in thickness, the two new Saxonia Jewellery models constitute a fascinating combination of horological precision, superb artisanship and feminine elegance. The visible facets of all the members of the Saxonia watch family reflect the rich inner life of these timepieces. They represent a perfect embodiment of mechanical precision, sublime craftsmanship and well-balanced design. This also applies to the two new Saxonia models in white ref. 878.029 and brown ref. 878.038 dials. Both of these mesmerizing A. Lange & Söhne ladies’ watches are focusing on the very essence. With svelte hands and baton hour markers in rhodiumed gold, the scintillating white or brown inlaid mother-of-pearl dial indicates the hours and minutes, as well as the seconds on a subsidiary dial. Located at 6 o’clock, the subdial stands in equilibrium with the A. Lange & Söhne signature beneath 12 o’clock.

The cool gloss of 18K white gold emphasizes the graceful silhouette of the two-part case that sparkles with the exceptional fire of 60 brilliant-cut diamonds. Straps in white or brown crocodile leather match the color of the dial and amplify the glamorous charisma of these watches.

The manually wound manufacture calibre L941.2 inside the Saxonia Jewellery assures high timekeeping accuracy. When fully wound, it delivers a power reserve of 45 hours. The movement reflects the ambitious quest for aesthetic elegance down to the smallest detail. Surfaces lavishly decorated by hand as well as the Glashütte ribbing that adorns the three-quarter plate made of German silver manifest the pursuit of perfection as aptly as the screwed gold chatons and the hand-engraved balance cock. The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the movement as a showpiece of mechanical ingenuity, commensurate with the dazzling appearance of the watch.

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For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.

SIHH 2014: IWC Aquatimer Chronograph '50 Years Science for Galapagos' Limited Edition of 500 Pieces and IWC Aquatimer Chronograph 'Galapagos Islands'. Live Pictures and Pricing.

For the first time ever, IWC presents two new Galapagos models simultaneously that are dedicated to the research and protection of the archipelago. This newly presented IWC Aquatimer Chronograph '50 Years Science for Galapagos' ref. IW379504 is a jubilee edition limited to 500 watches that commemorates the Charles Darwin Research Station's 50 years of scientific work on the Galapagos Islands. Equipped with the reliable IWC in-house 89365 calibre, SafeDive system and flyback function, the chronograph is water-resistant to 300 meters and has a wealth of features designed to appeal to divers. Fitted with a rubber-coated stainless steel case measuring 44 mm in diameter and a black dial with midnight blue accents, this limited edition watch is just amazing. The blue accents provide the perfect amount of contrast and color to the blackness of the watch.

The matte black rubber coating on the stainless-steel case is a special feature for both of the Galapagos edition models. It is applied in a complex vulcanization process and gives the watches an attractive look and feel of their own. Meanwhile, the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition 'Galapagos Islands' ref. IW379502 is a special edition —not limited— and an annual tribute to the partnership, established in 2009, with the Charles Darwin Foundation.

Over 50 years, hundreds of scientists, students, teachers and volunteers from all over the world have been working on behalf of the Foundation at the Charles Darwin Research Station. The goal for the Galapagos scientific center is to research the indigenous fauna and flora and to save the Galapagos, a World Heritage site, from destruction. The Station trains national park guides, organizes seminars, publishes the findings of its research and collects donations. Traditionally, part of the proceeds from sales of the Galapagos editions has always gone to the Charles Darwin Foundation and this time is not different. Both the 'Galapagos Islands' and the '50 Years Science for Galapagos' are fitted with specially engraved solid case backs. While the 'Galapagos Islands' model features the engraving of the iconic black iguana from the Galapagos, the '50 Years Science for Galapagos' features a 50-logo of the Charles Darwin Foundation.

Sticker Price $11,200 USD '50 Years Science for Galapagos'. $11,100 USD 'Galapagos Islands'.

For more info on IWC click here. 

SIHH 2014: IWC Aquatimer Chronograph ref. 3768. Live Pictures and Pricing.

The new IWC Aquatimer Chronograph presented at the SIHH 2014 two weeks ago is available in four different options with silver or black dial and on stainless steel bracelet or black rubber strap. The new IWC Aquatimer Chronograph ref. 3768 is fitted with a robust stainless steel case measuring 44 mm in diameter and a thickness of 17 mm. Powered by the calibre 79320, this chronograph features running seconds at 9, minute-chrono counter at 12, hour-chrono counter at 6 and day and date at 3 o'clock.

This watch just like all other new Aquatimers is fitted with an internal bezel with SafeDive system, screw-in crown and a solid case back.

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The IWC Aquatimer Chronographs featured here are ref. IW376801 —silver dial— and ref. IW376803 —black dial. Both watches are fitted with a black rubber strap that is very comfortable and definitely a huge upgrade from the previous generation of IWC Aquatimer rubber straps. The strap features a texture similar to that on vintage tropic straps and is equipped with a pin buckle.

Sticker Price $7,000 USD Rubber strap. $8,000 USD Stainless steel bracelet. For more info on IWC click here.


SIHH 2014: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore New Safari and New Navy. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Last week at the SIHH 2014, Audemars Piguet unveiled six new models of the Royal Oak Offshore in 42 mm. With this new line-up, there are several models that will no longer be produced and that have disappeared from the Royal Oak Offshore line as we knew them. Within these new six references, there are two particular models that we need to talk about in depth, the new Royal Oak Offshore 'Safari' and the new Royal Oak Offshore 'Navy'.

The original Royal Oak Offshore 'Safari' and Royal Oak Offshore 'Navy' were released in 2007 both as models specifically designed to be worn on a hornback strap and with color combinations that were somewhat different to the more conventional designs available as part of the 'Themes' line at the time. This year, both models have not only undergone an important facelift with new ceramic pushers and crown, new designed crown guards, new display case backs, new pin buckle straps, new hour/minute hands, but also a completely new look on their dials with new colors and also more streamlined Arabic numerals that appear thinner than on the previous generation of Royal Oak Offshores.

Today, the Royal Oak Offshore that we have been referring to as the 'Navy' for the last seven years, will no longer be fitted with a white dial and blue counters, but with a navy blue dial with off-white counters, blue flange with orange tachymeter scale, orange chronograph hands and a gorgeous cobalt blue rubber strap. We really think that the new 'Navy' is more bold and way better looking than the original one. In only two weeks, we have already seen the positive reactions from Audemars Piguet collectors and we can already sense that this will become a hot commodity as soon as it hits the authorized dealers network. The reference number for this new model is 26470ST.OO.A027CA.01.

Now, let's talk about the redesigned Royal Oak Offshore 'Safari' ref. 26470ST.OO.A801CR.01. The 'Safari' will now have a more ivory-cream colored dial than its predecessor with brown Arabic numerals, milk chocolate brown chrono counters and a brown flange with white tachymeter scale. While the original 'Safari' has always been an iconic model in the Royal Oak Offshore collection, we think that the new dial is more appealing and less boring. The new 42 mm Offshores will no longer be fitted with folding clasps but with pin buckles and the new buckle on the brown hornback alligator strap on the redesigned 'Safari' looks and feels great.

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While we consider ourselves purists when it comes to certain iconic watches, we really feel that the redesigned 'Safari' and 'Navy' are perfect examples of what reinvention and redesign in the watch industry should look like. With the new Royal Oak Offshore line, Audemars Piguet continues to prove why to "break the rules you first must master them."

Sticker Price Royal Oak Offshore 'Safari' $26,000 USD. Sticker Price Royal Oak Offshore 'Navy' $25,600 USD.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

SIHH 2014: IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 ref. 3580. Live Pictures and Pricing.

The new IWC Aquatimer 2000 ref. 358002 is one of our favorite watches from the new Aquatimer collection. Fitted with a very robust and thick titanium case measuring now 46 mm in diameter —instead of 44 mm as its predecessor— and 20.5 mm in thickness, this new watch is definitely an upgrade from the previous Aquatimer 2000. Rated to a depth of a 2000 meters, this beautiful watch is fitted with a black dial, a rugged rubber strap and now with an in-house automatic movement calibre 80110 with 28 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 44 hours when fully wound.

This watch just like all the other new Aquatimers, is fitted with a chunky external rotating bezel that can be adjusted easily even when wearing gloves and, as the name SafeDive system suggests, offers the diver a very high level of security. Something that we have not explained on earlier posts regarding the new Aquatimers, is that what appears to be a second crown or valve on the left side of the case, is actually the drive wheel and drive pinion for the new SafeDive bezel system. In order to guarantee uncompromised water resistance, the watch is fitted with a solid case back with the only one motif that was thought appropriate for engraving: the classic diving helmet worn by deep-sea divers.

The 2014 Aquatimer collection from IWC Schaffhausen comes with inspired technical features, even more in-house calibres and a patented IWC bracelet quick-change system. The prototype was built in 1982 as a watch for mine clearance divers and designed by the legendary Ferdinand A. Porsche. The version for non-military use, the Ocean 2000, was the first watch with a pressure-resistance of 200 bar and was much coveted by collectors. Subsequent models, namely the GST Aquatimer and the Aquatimer Automatic 2000, were one thing above all: first-class diving instruments for professionals and ambitious amateurs. The new Aquatimer Automatic 2000 is a reliable backup system, even for the most exacting underwater missions.

Sticker Price $10,100 USD. For more info on IWC click here.

Posted on January 31, 2014 and filed under IWC, SIHH.

Our Best Wishes: Happy Chinese New Year. Seven Fascinating Watches Celebrating the Year of the Horse.

Today, with the first new moon of the calendar year, the Lunar Chinese New Year will begin its 15-day celebration. A 12-year-cycle of animals make up the Chinese zodiac and these interact with the five elements: wood, metal, fire, water, earth. 2014 is the year of the wood horse, taking over from the year of the water snake. In order to commemorate and celebrate the Year of the Horse, several manufactures have released limited edition timepieces. For this occasion, we have picked seven fascinating watches that take the center stage today as the Year of the Horse gets kicked-off.

Let's start with the Vacheron Constantin The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2014 Year of the Horse crafted in 18K pink gold or platinum and limited to 12 pieces each, that will only be sold at the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques. Fitted with a case measuring 40 mm in diameter and an automatic movement, the dial on this watch features a leaf motif, stemming from classic Chinese iconography, and directly engraved in the gold dial. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuated reliefs creating a depth effect. The raised bamboo stalks appear to be floating over the dial. With the horse engraving, on which the details of the mane and coat measure a mere fraction of a millimeter, the artisan provides a tangible expression of the artistic vision behind this creation. Then comes the stage of 'Grand Feu' enameling, a technique invented in Geneva and which remains the exclusive preserve of a rare breed of artisans. By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist further enhances the visual intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial. A final layer of enamel is then applied before a final firing operation that vitrifies the dial and lends a shiny glazed effect that gives added definition to the floral motif. The horse is delicately applied to the center of the dial, poised as if ready to gallop through the sapphire crystal and thus creating a truly striking effect. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

Three exclusive Jaquet Droz timepieces have been created using the exclusive know-how of Jaquet Droz's master craftsmen, specialized in highly complex techniques: engraving, painting and Grand Feu enamel. Two Arab thoroughbreds – considered the most beautiful horses in the world – have been delicately painted on the ivory enamel dial of the Petite Heure Minute 39 mm. Captured in full gallop, they seem to want to catch up with the sculptural mustang that appears on the dial of the Petite Heure Minute 43 mm. Extremely wild and difficult to tame, this horse from the American Northwest —depicted in red gold and engraved in bas-relief— seems to jump out from the black enamel. The champlevé technique, used here for the first time by Jaquet Droz, highlights the movement of the mane and the tail, both filled in with black Grand Feu enamel. The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute 41 mm has been chosen as the showcase to depict a horse rearing up on its hind legs against a backdrop of the Great Wall of China, engraved and patinated by hand on a mother-of-pearl dial. Bold, powerful and elegant, this fearless horse in 18-carat red gold appears to protect the Great Wall, which is also hand engraved on the 22-carat red gold oscillating weight next to the Jaquet Droz signature of two stars. For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.

Lastly, Arnold & Son unveiled the HM Horses Set in honor of the Chinese New Year. The Arnold & Son HM Horses Set is a special limited edition of 28 pairs of watches inspired by the horses depicted in traditional Chinese ink-wash paintings. Adorning each of the two lacquer dials is a hand-finished miniature painting of two horses, one pair black and grey on white, the other white and grey against a black background. Nuances of tone and shading, from jet black to silvery grey, are achieved by the tiny brushstrokes and texturing gradually to build-up the entire image with an astonishing richness of details. The two watches in each pair of this limited edition from Arnold & Son are powered by the hand wound A&S1001 calibre, developed, designed and manufactured entirely at Arnold & Son's workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The classical design is underscored by the slim 40 mm 18-carat rose gold case, which is also available with an optional diamond-set bezel. The simplicity of the black and white lacquered dials, which have just two hands and a minimalist chapter ring consisting of tiny dots, leaves the stage free for the dynamic miniature depiction of two charging horses. The timepieces are each presented with a high-quality black alligator leather strap. For more info on Arnold & Son click here.

SIHH 2014: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 44mm White Ceramic ref. 26402CB. Live Pictures and Pricing.

In 2011 Audemars Piguet introduced the 44 mm Royal Oak Offshore collection with a 44 mm diameter case and a whole new design under ref. 26400. Three years later, the manufacture continues to beef up its 44 mm Royal Oak Offshore collection with a completely new timepiece featuring a white ceramic case, white ceramic crown and pushers and titanium guards and plots, all rounded out by a white rubber strap with a titanium pin buckle.

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This new 44 mm Royal Oak Offshore features a silver dial with dark blue chrono counters and a dark blue flange. Depending on the lighting conditions, the counters and flange can go from a midnight blue to almost black looking. The reference number for this new timepiece in the 44mm Offshore lineup is 26402CB.OO.A010CA.01.

As all other 44mm Royal Oak Offshores, this watch is fitted with a display case back that allows for full view of the Audemars Piguet calibre 3126/3840 composed of 365 parts, 59 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 55 hours when fully wound. The case back is also made of titanium and fitted with a anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal.

On the wrist, the watch wears exactly like all other 44 mm Royal Oak Offshores but slightly lighter due to the full ceramic case with titanium guards. We are confident, that this new Royal Oak Offshore 44 mm will be as popular among men as it will be among women, regardless of its 44 mm size. We've seen a trend in the past five years where ladies have gone all the way from 32 mm watches up to 41 mm. Therefore, going up another 3 mm in size is really not much of a big deal. This watch is also available in black ceramic with titanium guards and black dial for the exact same price.

Sticker Price $41,700 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

SIHH 2014: Experience the Cartier Pavilion. Elegance, Creativity and the Largest Number of Novelties Unveiled by Any Brand.

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This year at the SIHH 2014 Cartier presented the largest number of novelties of any brand present at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie and also had the largest pavilion of all, taking over a whole corner of the salon at the Palexpo in Geneva. Cartier presented a total of 103 new watches, 12 unique pieces and 5 new calibres. Their pavilion was elegantly decorated with light colored walls with red accents, beige wood, glass displays and very opulent but tasteful looking in general.

Some of the most fascinating pieces that were presented this year and that took the center stage included the following: the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon in 39 mm available in 18K rose gold and 18k white gold, the Pasha Tourbillon Chrono 46 mm in 18K rose gold, the Rotonde de Cartier Day & Night with Retrograde Moon Phase, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire, the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon, the Tank Louis Cartier Sapphire Skeleton, the Tank Must de Cartier Two Tone Skeleton, the Rotonde de Cartier Tourbillon Chronograph 8-day power reserve, the L'Heure Envoutee de Cartier, the Calibre de Cartier Diver and the Tortue amongst others.  

We have put together all these live pictures for your viewing pleasure so you can pretend you came along. Our live pictures of some of the novelties are very close and personal so just enjoy them.

For more info on Cartier click here.

SIHH 2014: Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Destro PAM 557. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Following the big success of the Luminor 1950 3 Days ref. PAM 372 reviewed here launched two years ago and following its simple vintage inspired lines, Officine Panerai presented the Destro —left-handed— version of this watch during the SIHH 2014 last week in Geneva.

The new Luminor 1950 3 Days Destro ref. PAM 557 comes with the exact same specifications as its predecessor but with the crown and crown protector on the left side of the case. The reason for this choice lies in the history of Panerai, which more than 70 years ago produced examples designed for commandos who preferred to wear the watch on the right wrist, with the compass and depth gauge on the other wrist. The biggest difference between these two watches —besides the obvious crown positioning— is the vintage looking untreated natural calf strap fitted on the new Destro. Since we had our PAM 372 with us during our meeting with Panerai last week, we decided to take some side-by-side shots of the two siblings for your viewing pleasure.

Just like on the PAM 372 the watch is supplied with a second interchangeable strap —we ignore the look or color of it at this point—, a second plexiglas and a steel screwdriver.

Sticker Price $10,600 USD. For more info on Panerai click here.