Macros: Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Réserve de Marche. Fascinating Like the History of the Manufacture.

In 2013, Jaquet Droz celebrates its 275th anniversary, maintaining the avant-garde spirit and refined taste of its founder, Pierre Jaquet Droz.

Pierre Jaquet Droz was born in 1721 in La Chaux-de-Fonds. At age seventeen in 1738, Pierre opened his first workshop for clock making and produced a series of grandfather clocks with very sophisticated movements beyond anything that had been produced earlier. A decade later, after losing his wife and daughter, Pierre built a special carriage to take six clocks to be sold in Spain. Upon his return to La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1759 and after his successful sales in Spain, he focused exclusively on making watches, clocks and automatons —a moving mechanical device imitating a human being that was a precursor to robots. In 1774, he successfully completed three humanoid automatons —The Writer, The Draughtsman and The Musician— that were presented in La Chaux-de-Fonds and a year later in France to Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette.

Photo: Jaquet Droz website. 

Years later, the Jaquet Droz fame and success reached the confines of Asia, to the point where the fifth emperor of the Qing Dynasty started collecting some of his masterpieces including clocks and automatons. 

Acquired in 2000 by the Swatch Group, the brand returned exclusively to La Chaux-de-Fonds —after closing former operations in London and Geneva— and moved into its new 'Atelier de Haute Horlogerie' in the summer of 2010. Great timepieces have been presented since then including the Grande Seconde in 2002, the Eclipse in 2010 and the Bird Repeater in 2012.   

The Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Réserve de Marche ref. J028033201 launched a few years ago —as part of the Complication La Chaux-de-Fonds collection— is one of the first Jaquet Droz watches to slightly move away from the utilization of the figure 8 on the dial configuration. Well, perhaps if we look at the dial upside-down, the figure 8 is still there. 

The watch is fitted with a beautiful cutout and sectioned black Opaline dial with an off-centered hours and minutes sub-dial with roman numerals, a power reserve indicator at 10, a retrograde date indicator at 2 and a tourbillon with vertically aligned bridge at 6 o'clock. The indicators are beautifully done in red gold and fitted with hands with red contrasting tips.

 

Featuring a massive 18K red gold case measuring 47mm in diameter, this watch is very large, yet extremely elegant. To complete the beautiful design of this timepiece, this watch is fitted with a very nice crown with the traditional Jaquet Droz stars. From the beginning, Pierre Jaquet Droz used two stars to authenticate his watches and they are now a focal point of the Jaquet Droz logo. If you were to draw a circle around each of the stars, you would create a figure eight.

The beating heart inside this watch is the manual-wound Jaquet Droz JD3 Tourbillon calibre with a power reserve of 88 hours when fully wound. The calibre is nicely finished with black 'Côtes de Genève' and the unmistakeable clover engraving.

The Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Réserve de Marche is fitted with a hand-stitched alligator strap that is very comfortable and flawlessly finished. This watch is a true example of 'haute horlogerie' and worth every penny of its sticker price. 

Sticker Price $190,300 USD. For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.  

Insider: Blancpain Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel. The Traditional Chinese Calendar. 宝珀中华年历表

In 2012, Blancpain presented a world-premiere with the first wristwatch to feature a traditional Chinese calendar. Included under Blancpain's Villeret collection, the 'Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel' a.k.a. Traditional Chinese Calendar ref. 00888-3631-55B is fitted with an 18K red gold case measuring 45mm in diameter and 15mm thick. The case is not only beautiful and very nicely finished but it's also the perfect housing for one of the most fascinating and complex horological complications ever created.

In addition to telling the hours and minutes, the watch features a Gregorian calendar, a Chinese calendar that includes all the animals in the Chinese zodiac in a small aperture right above the double-hour indicator at 12, a date and month indicator at 9 with a red dot that indicates the intercalary months as necessary, a moon phase indicator at 6 and an indicator for the five elements and its corresponding ten celestial stems with yin-yang phase at 3 o'clock.

For those of you that don't know how the Chinese calendar works, here's a quick overview. The most important thing to remember is that the traditional Chinese calendar is a lunisolar calendar where months begin with a new moon, months are 29 or 30 days long and a year could have 12 or 13 months depending on the need of inserting what is called an intercalary or leap month.

The months are numbered from 1 thru 12 and when an intercalary month is needed, the number of the preceding month is repeated —typically between the second and eleventh month— with an extra marker that in Chinese is ‘闰’. In the case of this watch, it is marked with a small red dot on the date and month register. The years are named using a 60-year cycle and each name is formed by combining a celestial stem from a 10-year cycle and an earthly branch from a 12-year cycle. The 12 earthly branches are directly correlated to the 12 zodiac animals but have different names. Every 60-year cycle is composed of the five elements and the 12 zodiac animals.

This amazing complication features a white 'grand feu' enamel dial with all numbers in Chinese with the exception of the 31 days —located on the outer part of the dial— of the Gregorian calendar and the red gold chapter ring applied Roman numerals that mark the hours. The Gregorian calendar features a gorgeous blued steel serpentine shaped hand that provides a nice contrast and that is very elegant.

All twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac are displayed via a small aperture located above the double-hours indicator at 12, while the moon phase indicator is right under the center pinion at 6 o'clock. As you can appreciate in the pictures, the animals are flawlessly represented.

This is perhaps one of the most amazing and fascinating horological complications ever attempted and it clearly exceeds the complication of a perpetual calendar and ranks only second to a minute repeater. The watch is fitted with a brown alligator strap that is very comfortable thanks to its double-folding clasp with tang buckle. Wearing this watch will add a touch of elegance and distinction to anyone's wrist.

The beating heart inside this complication is Blancpain's automatic calibre 3638 composed of 463 components, 39 jewels and a 7-day power reserve. The rotor is nicely decorated with the yin-yang symbol and the calibre is fully visible through the display case back.

Also on the back of the case, you will find the five exclusive and patented under-lug correctors to make all the necessary adjustments to the different features of the calendar —four of them located by each lug and one around the middle part of the back of the case. The crown allows direct adjustment of the zodiac and elements according to the 60-year cycle. This is a very clever and convenient system that only someone like Blancpain could've thought of in the first place. Kudos to Blancpain!

Even though the watch wears slightly bigger than its size —perhaps more like a 47mm watch—, it is extremely comfortable and with a wrist presence that is unparalleled. 

This watch is also available every year in a 20-piece limited edition in platinum with a Madagascar ruby on the crown and the oscillating weight. If you are Chinese or of Chinese descent, the 宝珀中华年历表 Blancpain Traditional Chinese Calendar is a must have in your collection. If you are ready to buy one, stop by the Tourbillon Boutique in Chicago.

Sticker Price $66,400 USD. For more info on Blancpain click here and for Tourbillon Boutiques here.   

Insider: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Survivor. The Most Revolutionary Offshore.

When it comes to Audemars Piguet watches, we all know that because of their exclusivity and limited production, we rarely see them in the wild. Now, how often do you come in contact with an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Survivor? Pretty much never. Well, here's one for your viewing pleasure.

This amazing timepiece was launched by Audemars Piguet at the end of 2008 as the limited edition Royal Oak Offshore ref. 26165IO.00.A002CA.01 in only a 1,000 pieces. It sold out almost immediately after its launch. 

Without a doubt, this Royal Oak Offshore Survivor is the one that started the true evolution of the Royal Oak Offshore line into what it is today. Fitted with a blackened and perforated titanium case measuring 42mm in diameter with grooves on the profile of the case at 9, a grooved ceramic bezel and chrono pushers in ceramic with titanium guards, this watch is the perfect match to the Lamborghini Gallardo LP 570-4 Spyder Performante Edizione Tecnica. This car is as revolutionary as this Offshore.

Even though this watch is extremely sleek and progressive in design and innovation, it still remains true to the Royal Oak Offshore nature and essence without compromise.

While the case construction appears massive and bulky, this watch wears true to its size. Just like the grooves on the case and bezel, the crown and hands are also very rugged making the watch look like a complex machine. The dial is pure perfection and very well balanced. The running seconds are on a silvered register that is fitted with a hand that has a red tip that adds the right amount of contrast.

The beating heart inside this revolutionary timepiece is the Audemars Piguet automatic calibre 3126/3840 with 59 jewels and a power reserve of 60 hours. To protect this amazing calibre, the watch is fitted with a nicely crafted and sturdy titanium case back with beautiful dimples on the center.

The rubber strap is slightly more flexible than other Offshore straps and quite comfortable. The watch is so light that it almost feels like its not on your wrist. The strap is fitted with a blackened titanium clasp very similar to the one on the Forged Carbon or Ceramic Divers. Its unmistakeable set of squared lines along the sides are the perfect match to the 'méga tapisserie' dial. The plots that connect the strap to the case have two small perforations to match the perforations on the case.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Survivor is a watch that, even after several years from its launch, still makes our hearts skip a beat with its beauty, uniqueness and overtly masculine design.

When found, the pre-owned sticker price ranges from $35,000-$42,000 USD.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.  

Experience: Porsche Design P'3635 Lighter. Our Fellow Cigar Smoking Companion.

After our recent post on the Cohiba Maduro 5 Mágicos, we received questions from our readers regarding the lighter that was used. Therefore, we decided to put together this post to tell you everything about it.

If you are a regular reader of our website, you are definitely someone that appreciates sleek design and the finer things. This Porsche Design P'3635 torch lighter has been with us for a while now and has been a very reliable companion when smoking some of the finest Habanos and other non-Cuban cigars along our journey enjoying the good life. This lighter is part of the P'3600 Porsche Design smoking accessories line.

While we know that many of you are purists when it comes to lighting up your cigars and you would never use anything other than a box of wooden matches, it is now proven that using a jet flame lighter like this one will not ruin your cigars or affect their 'bouquet' at all.

This sleek and modern Porsche Design P'3635 lighter is thin, compact, elegant, lightweight and quite a conversation piece. We decided to feature it along with this wonderful Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph ref. 102337 reviewed here because this watch is sleek and advanced in design just like the lighter.

The Porsche Design P'3635 features a very reliable patented circular flame jet that will work very well even in the windiest conditions —just like the ones we have here in the 'Windy City'.

The lighter is composed of two panels connected with four hexagonal screws that house the modern quartz piezo ignition mechanism and the trogamid tank and is also fitted with a small fuel level window on its profile. The lighter holds up to 1.0 ml of butane gas. One thing that we also love about this lighter is that the fold away cover on the ignition button has a beautiful 'tapisserie' pattern that reminds us of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak dials. I guess we can't stop thinking about watches for a minute.

Of all lighters we've used in the past including Dunhill and S.T. Dupont, this Porsche Design is one of our favorites due to its understated look and sleek appearance. It also available in a variety of colors and finishes including bog oak wood, gray, silver pearl, black, navy blue and titan.

Sticker Price $190 USD. For more info on Porsche Design click here.

Insider: Breguet Type XXI Transatlantique 3810. A Sporty and Elegant Flyback Chronograph.

Whenever watchlifestylers hear the name Breguet, the first thing that comes to mind is elegance and an immediate association of the brand to their Classique, Tradition or Marine collections; however, the Type XX / Type XXI collection rarely comes to mind when thinking of this amazing manufacture.

The Type XX was designed in the 50s for the French naval air army and all the chronographs within this collection are fitted with a flyback mechanism that is labeled by Breguet in French language as 'Retour en Vol', flyback in English.

The Type XX / Type XXI collection features watches divided into two lines: the Aéronavale and the Transatlantique. The main difference is that the latter includes a date indicator while the first one doesn't. The Breguet Type XXI Transatlantique ref. 3810ST/92/9ZU in stainless steel has a solid and robust case measuring 42.5mm in diameter and 15.4mm in thickness. Because of the unique shape and width of its turning bezel, the watch appears somewhat larger than its actual size. The attention to details on the construction of the case is remarkable and the  fluting on the caseband is very unique and great at refracting light. The watch is fitted with a screw-down crown and pump chrono pushers.

The dial is perhaps the most interesting and fascinating part of this watch. Made of ruthenium —a material rarely used by other watch manufacturers—, the dial appears brownish or even grayish depending on the lighting conditions. The dial features a running seconds register at 9, an hour chrono register and a trapezoid date aperture at 6 and a 24-hour indicator at 3 o'clock. The seconds and minutes for the chrono are indicated with two hands set at the center pinion and a minute scale imprinted on the outer ring of the dial. The white Arabic numerals along with the diamond shaped markers round up the dial configuration very nicely. The movement inside this watch is the Breguet calibre 584Q with 25 jewels and a power-reserve of 48 hours. One downside of this watch is that it is fitted with a solid case back; therefore, the calibre cannot be admired as on most Breguet watches.

This watch is fitted with a brown crocodile strap with a deployant buckle. The strap is quite comfortable as well as nice and thick. For sure, this is a strap that will last a long time and that can take on daily abuse and wear. 

If you are looking to get your first Breguet but you can't afford one of their complications, this is the perfect watch with a very nice price point.  Also available with stainless steel bracelet or in 18K rose gold with a brown crocodile strap.

Sticker Price $10,300 USD. For more info on Breguet click here.  

News: Zenith Presents the El Primero Stratos Flyback Tribute to Aviation. 50-Piece Limited Edition for Mexico, South America and the Caribbean.

Zenith presents the El Primero Stratos Flyback Tribute to Aviation a limited edition of 50-pieces exclusively available in Mexico, South America and the Caribbean. The Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Tribute to Aviation is fitted with the in-house automatic chronograph calibre El Primero 405B —like all El Primero movements, it beats at 36,000 vph allowing it to measure tenths of a second.

The new El Primero Stratos Flyback Tribute to Aviation is equipped with a flyback chrono mechanism that allows the user to restart the chronograph on the fly without the need to first stop it using the start/stop pusher.

This new model comes in Ti-Alum, a high-tech alloy specially developed for aeronautics and car racing and which is now being used into the horological world. Its magnetic permeability is 50 times lower than that of various grades of steel and its corrosion-resistance properties are unparalleled. The movement on this new chronograph provides a power-reserve of a minimum of 50 hours when fully wound and is composed of 331 parts 31 jewels.

Sticker Price $11,500 USD. For more information on Zenith click here. 

Macros: Hublot King Power Unico Titanium. Massive and Very Well Crafted.

The Hublot King Power Unico Titanium ref. 701.NX.0170.RX is a massive chronograph in a satin-brushed finished case measuring 48mm in diameter and 17.6mm thick. Even though this watch is very large and quite thick, it wears extremely comfortably. This fascinating timepiece is well crafted and perfectly suited for watchlifestylers that are looking to wear a watch with impactful wrist presence and strong horological values.

The Hublot King Power Unico features a very sleek openworked sapphire dial with the most fascinating calendar disc with tridimensional numbers that are the result of extreme horological engineering. The date aperture is strategically located between the 4 and 5 o'clock markers.

The automatic chronograph flyback movement —with column wheel— in this watch, is the Hublot calibre HUB 1240 composed of 330 parts, 38 jewels and a power-reserve of 3 days —fully visible through the display case back and the openworked dial.

The openworked dial features satin-finished rhodium plated applied markers with white luminescent material that are very typical of Hublot watches with the running seconds register at 9 and the 60-minute chrono register at 3 o'clock. All the visual elements on the dial along with the ability to appreciate the column wheel mechanism on the chronograph create a perfect harmony on this timepiece.

The watch is fitted with a very comfortable black rubber strap with deployant buckle in titanium and black PVD titanium. The rubber on the strap is texturized with the traditional Hublot stripes and is very soft and durable. Additionally, the watch is waterproof to a depth rating of 100 meters —330ft.

The sapphire crystal on this watch has been treated with an anti-reflective double coating that minimizes glare to fully appreciate the beauty of the openworked dial. At the right angle, you can see a beautiful blue tint on the crystal product of the superb coating on it.

The bezel on the King Power Unico is made of satin-finished titanium and black rubber with 6 H-shaped black PVD titanium screws. The unmistakeable Hublot bezel lugs at 3 and 9 o'clock, are made of a black composite resin that is very hard and shock-resistant. The crown and chrono pushers also feature a black rubber insert in them and every single component on this watch is a real treat to the eyes.

In summary, we feel the craftsmanship of this watch is spectacular and its design is very well executed and properly balanced. We'll sum it up in just six words: "This is our favorite Hublot watch".   

Sticker Price $22,900 USD. For more info on Hublot click here.

Watch Shopping: Tudor Releases Information on Authorized Dealers in the U.S. Three Dealers in Chicago.

Tudor has finally released the information regarding the authorized dealers that will be carrying the brand on their comeback to the U.S. While not all states in the country will have authorized dealers, we are happy to announce that Illinois will have three authorized dealers in the Chicago metropolitan area.

Below you will find the information for Swiss Fine Timing, Persin & Robbin Jewelers and Razny Jewelers.

Kudos to Tudor and the three lucky dealers in Illinois!

For the full list of Tudor authorized dealers in the U.S. click here.  

Insider: Bell & Ross Horizon Limited Edition. Another Aircraft Instrument Inspired Timepiece.

As you know, in the past we have featured other models of the Bell & Ross BR01 Flight Instruments collection here. This time we will be talking about the limited edition Bell & Ross Horizon, a very unique timepiece that was inspired by the artificial horizon instrument in aircraft cockpits.   

The Bell & Ross BR01 Horizon ref. BR0192-Horizon offers superb legibility in the legendary 46mm PVD black finished stainless steel case. This limited edition is only available in 999 pieces and is part of a six-watch set of flight instrument inspired watches that compose the Aviation Flight Instruments collection. The set includes the Horizon we are reviewing, the Turn Coordinator, the Altimeter, the Air Speed, the Heading Indicator and the Climb. The first 99 Flight Instrument watches were offered in a gorgeous collector's box containing all six references. The box is designed as a control panel where all watches appear to be inserted in the panel when the box is closed.

The watch is fitted with a light gray and charcoal dial with white markers that perfectly resembles the artificial horizon flying instrument. In order to complete the resemblance even better, the watch only features hour and minute hands —no seconds hand is fitted. The hand for the hours is the thin black one with a white tip and the minute hand is an extra long hand that goes across the circumference of the dial. This minute hand is divided in two parts where the white part indicates the minutes on the dial.

The BR01 Horizon is fitted with the traditional BR rubber strap with a PVD pin-buckle that is very comfortable, flexible and soft to the touch.  Upon purchase, the watch also includes a second interchangeable nylon strap.

The watch features an automatic movement, a screw-down crown, an anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal and waterproofing to 100 meters. As we've mentioned before, if you are in love with airplanes or you wanted to be a pilot but didn't make your dream come true, this watch will make you feel like you are inside the cockpit of a Beechcraft or a Cessna, flying the friendly skies.

Sticker Price $5,000 USD. For more info on Bell & Ross click here.  

Insider: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ref. 25770ST. The Predecessor to the 'End of Days' Limited Edition.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ref. 25770ST.OO.0001.KE.01 is another one of those discontinued Audemars Piguet references that is worth talking about and spending a whole afternoon reviewing and photographing.

This amazing reference, was launched in 1997 as a predecessor to the Royal Oak Offshore 'End of Days' Limited Edition ref. 25770SN.OO.0001.KE.01 launched in the year 1999. The 'End of Days', is the first limited edition Royal Oak Offshore ever launched and released in a limited run of 500 pieces —the product of a collaboration between Arnold Schwarzenegger and Audemars Piguet while he was shooting the blockbuster movie 'End of Days'. The legendary 'End of Days' a.k.a EOD is one of the first PVD watches ever made and fitted with a charcoal Kevlar aramid fiber strap and a second interchangeable black leather strap.

As a side note, it is important to mention that there is also another very rare 'End of Days' watch bearing ref. 25770SN.OO.0001.AR.01 and of which only four pieces were ever produced —the same four pieces that Arnold Schwarzenegger wore while shooting the movie. Additionally, one unique piece was also produced bearing ref. 25770SN.OO.0050.AR.01 and this particular watch was fitted with a yellow Kevlar aramid fiber strap instead of a charcoal one.  

The main difference between the Royal Oak Offshore ref. 25770ST.OO.0001KE.01 and the 'End of Days',  is the non-PVD stainless steel case with the same shape and cut-out ends and the blue dial with a very similar configuration with blue 'petite tapisserie' center and smooth concentric circle with Arabic numerals and gray chrono registers. The case also measures 42mm in diameter and the watch is fitted with the same charcoal Kevlar strap. 

The strap on this watch is one of the most unique and distinctive straps in the market and it's also the unmistakeable touch that will help watchlifestylers spot this discontinued reference in the wild. While the Kevlar strap seems quite rugged and somewhat rough to the touch, it is extremely comfortable and one of our favorite things on this timepiece. It is really the most comfortable strap of all Audemars Piguet watches —fitted with a strap— that we've worn.

This unique Kevlar strap is a double-fastening strap made of different materials including Kevlar, seat belt like nylon, velcro and leather. The strap features two layers that are individually fastened when putting the watch on. The first layer —inner part in contact with the wrist— is made of a seat belt like nylon and lined with leather righ where the strap meets the case back of the watch. This layer comes with a velcro fastener that the wearer should first secure before fastening the second outer part of the strap. The outer part of the strap is made of Kevlar and features a small pin-buckle with an AP engraving on it. 

The dial has the same hue of blue as the dial on the first Royal Oak Offshore that we reviewed here. The Arabic numerals are somewhat greenish in person —pictures make them appear more white— due to the luminous material on them. The luminescent material used on this dial, is brighter than that used on other Audemars Piguet dials —the hands and numerals glow nice and bright even when exposed to the slightest darkness while driving through a tunnel or an underpass.

The chrono registers are gray with black numerals and black hands. The chrono seconds hand is white and provides the perfect contrast along with the thin white outline on the numerals on the dial. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ref. 25770ST a.k.a. the 'Other End of Days' is powered with the AP calibre 2226/2840 —the same calibre fitted in the first Royal Oak Offshore and most Offshores until the release of the calibre 2326/2840 several years ago— with a power-reserve of approximately 48 hours.

To commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Royal Oak in 1997, a limited number of Royal Oak Offshores with the same type of case as this reference, were sold on colorful leather straps matching their dials in orange, apple green, mint green, yellow and red.

This amazing reference is one of the most comfortable Royal Oak Offshores we have ever worn and a watch that calls for attention wherever you are wearing it. Its unique look and wrist presence are unparalleled, and for those watchlifestylers that are in the know, running into one of this watches is an extraordinary event and an unforgettable experience.

If you consider yourself a true Audemars Piguet collector, this is a reference that is a must have in your collection.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.  

News: Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Tech Green and Tech Gold. Now Available at Authorized Retailers.

The SpidoLite II Tech with a case weighing only 33 grams comes in two limited edition series of 75 pieces each and is ready to be delivered to its first customers as it is now available via Linde Werdelin authorized retailers around the world. A combination of non-traditional materials employed on a watch for the first time with Linde Werdelin ALW-Alloy in the inner that case has been combined with forged carbon on the outer case to guarantee our lightest yet strongest case to date.

The SpidoLite II Tech Green has been crafted with the most high-tech materials in an advanced development to achieve the strongest and lightest case to date. The ultra light case weighing just 33 grams —measuring 44mm wide x 46mm long x 15mm thick— combines Linde Werdelin's ALW-Alloy —a metal composite developed for the aerospace industry and for the first time in a watch case— with carbon, ceramic, and the new ceramic coating for titanium in a fully skeletonized structure. Fitted with a bespoke black calfskin strap with matching green stitching is available in a limited series of 75 pieces worldwide. Sticker Price CHF 13,000 excluding VAT.

The SpidoLite II Tech Gold features the same case construction, size and materials as the SpidoLite II Tech Green but is fitted with an 18K rose gold bezel and crown. The watch  comes with a dial configuration in red and matching red stitching on the SpidoLite black textured calfskin strap with ardillon buckle —interchangeable within Linde Werdelin's proprietary strap system. Sticker Price CHF 17,500 excluding VAT.

Linde Werdelin's signature case structure also features a display case back that allows for full view of the beautifully finished custom-made automatic movement that is also revealed through the skeletonized dial. 

 For more info on Linde Werdelin click here.   

Insider: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116520. Celebrating 50 Years of an Iconic Reference.

Launched in 1963, this is a Rolex reference that needs no introduction or long lines to describe it. Fifty years ago, one of the most iconic watches of all time was born. All watchlifestylers know this watch very well, as there's a wealth of knowledge and amazing content —in cyberspace and in books— regarding the history of this amazing reference that has already been published; therefore, we will focus on sharing some nice images of this wonderful iconic watch and give you some basic reference information.

The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is definitely one of our all-time favorite chronographs; however, the lack of a date aperture is a deal breaker for us. They are elegant, refined and iconic.

Any watchlifestyler can spot one from a block away and the watch spotting always turns into a nice conversation as this is still a 'grail' watch for many collectors. We should say that there's almost a 'cult following' fueled by Italian collectors and by the many intricacies and variations that this watch has had over half a century.

For those that wear this amazing reference, thank you for paying tribute to one of the most beautiful watches ever made in the history of watchmaking. 

This reference, originally launched as ref. 6239 in 1963, has undergone several changes to its bezel, pushers, dial configurations, movements and reference numbers. A true evolution of a classic watch. For instance, the original ref. 6239 featured a stainless steel bezel graduated to 300 units per hour —years later the bezel was changed to 200 units per hour— and the dial didn't make any allusion to 'Daytona', the home of car racing in the U.S.

In 1965, when ref. 6240 was presented, the dial configuration had changed from 'Cosmograph' to 'Oyster Cosmograph', the pushers were changed from pump to screw-down, its water resistance was improved and the bezel changed from solid stainless steel to a bezel with a stainless steel ring and a black acrylic graduated insert with numbers in white. 

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Since then, there had been numerous references and changes made to this watch including changes to the case size —from 37 mm to 40 mm— and the movement. The watch was originally fitted with the manual-winding Valjoux calibre 72 and from there, it went to the automatic self-winding Zenith 400 on ref. 16520 —known as Rolex calibre 4030. Today, the Daytona is fitted with a newer and improved Rolex in-house movement calibre 4130. With all of its variations, the Daytona is a watch with perhaps the most fascinating and difficult to master history in the horological world. Every time we think we've read it all, there's a new article being published with another interesting set of facts regarding this timepiece.

By the way, a great source for information on rare, unusual Rolex watches including extremely rare Daytonas is Stefano Mazzariol's blog. 

Today, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is still as timeless and classic as it was 50 years ago. Its coveted white dial makes watchlifestylers travel around the world for one, pay special premiums over the retail price and even put their names on prepaid waiting lists for one. In reality, if you are in the know and you are a watchlifestyler with a good network of collectors, finding one is way easier than what most people think.

Now, if you want to get a rare vintage piece like a Rolex Cosmograph Yacht Master ref. 6242 or a ref. 6263 'Albino', then you really need to dig underneath the stones or you can call one of your close friends in Firenze, Roma, Napoli or Livorno.  

Photo: Stefano Mazzariol Blog

Photo: Stefano Mazzariol Blog

For now, the images on this fantastic Rolex Daytona ref. 116520 should be good enough to put a big smile on your face.

Sticker Price $12,000 USD. For more info on Rolex click here.  

Experience: Hancock Hidden Placket Raincoat. A Handmade Scottish Classic with Timeless Design.

Thomas Hancock’s interest in rubber seems to have originated from a desire to make waterproof fabrics to protect the passengers on horse-drawn carriages. By 1819, Thomas Hancock began experimenting with rubber solutions and a year later he patented his first invention: elastication for use in clothing.  In 1825, he began working with Charles Macintosh to manufacture his 'double textured' fabric and on November 21, 1843, Hancock took out a patent for the vulcanization of rubber using sulfur —8 weeks prior to Charles Goodyear in the U.S.

The Hancock Hidden Placket raincoat is a waterproof garment with a very classic shape. Handmade in Scotland with waterproof vulcanized rubber cotton, the Hidden Placket raincoat is a three-quarter length trench that features a hidden four button front closure and a 3-button opening on either side for convertible venting at the hips.

This raincoat looks good with any outfit and has a timeless design —just like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak on our wrist— that won't look outdated in a couple of years. 

The lining features beautiful black and white illustrations of the 'Siphonia Elastica' plant giving tribute to the elastic, gummy substance obtained from the milky sap of several plants of tropical South America, especially the euphorbiaceous tree 'Siphonia Elastica'. The brand's labels are carefully stitched to the inside and all interior seams are covered with glue to waterproof them. Perfection is the only way to describe the craftsmanship behind this raincoat.

The attention to details on this garment is superb and it clearly shows the hard work that was put into its design and elaboration. From the beautiful branded buttons to the cuffs and every seam on it, this raincoat is just one of a kind. 

The Hancock Hidden Placket raincoat is available in a variety of colors and it's a garment made to meet the refined and demanding taste of most watchlifestylers. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15300ST and this raincoat are a perfect match and there's no other watch that we've worn with it that looks any better.

For those of you interested in learning more about how this amazing coats are made, below we have included a video that was produced by Hancock and that shows the careful and delicate handmade process that these garments go through. After watching this video, you will understand why these garments are so unique.

Only sold through a very limited number of retailers in the U.K, U.S., Hong Kong and Japan. Sticker Price $1,065 USD.

For more info on Hancock click here.  

News: Richard Mille RM030 Americas Limited Edition. Only 30 Pieces Available at Richard Mille Boutiques in North and South America.

Press Release

Following the success of the RM011, RM016 and RM028 limited editions created exclusively for sale in the Americas, Richard Mille unveils the RM030 Americas limited edition.
 
The RM 030 Americas stands apart from all other models thanks to its bright orange upper flange, crown protector, and hands, complemented by white numerals and date aperture. The timepiece is encased in black carbon nanotube and presented on a black rubber strap.
 
Inside the case of the RM030 beats the novel calibre RMAR1, which features a rotor that declutches automatically. With this system, the winding barrel is automatically disconnected from the rotor’s winding mechanism at the moment when the spring is fully wound. Additionally, this new mechanism is linked to the power reserve indicator to provide optimal control. This allows both the movement and the oscillator to work with the best ratio of constant torque/power to provide the best chronometric performance.
 
The RM030 Americas is a limited edition of 30 pieces, available exclusively at Richard Mille boutiques and authorized Richard Mille retailers throughout North and South America.
 
Technical Specifications of the RM030 Americas Limited Edition Automatic with Declutchable Rotor:
 
Dimensions: 50 mm x 42.70 mm x 13.95 mm
Power-reserve circa 55 hours
Declutchable and adjustable rotor geometry
Winding indicator
Date display
Free sprung balance with variable inertia
Double barrel
Baseplate, bridges and balance cock made of titanium
Torque limiting crown in titanium
Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms
Inertia moment 4.8 mg.cm², angle of lift 53°
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted, Titalyt® treated
Barrel bridges PVD coated
Sapphire blasted and hand-drawn surfaces

Sticker Price $135,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.  

Encounter: Austin-Healey Bugeye Sprite. A Car Make that Disappeared at the time the Royal Oak was Launched.

A few days ago, we stumbled upon one of the most classic British sports cars ever made, an Austin-Healey Bugeye Sprite a.k.a. Frogeye in the U.K. —due to its headlights strategically located on top of the hood resembling the amphibian animal.

Austin-Healey was launched in 1952 through a a joint-venture between Leonard Lord of the Austin division of the British Motor Corporation —the BMC— and the Donald Healey Motor Company, a renowned automotive engineering and design firm in the old days. Austin-Healey cars were produced for only a period of 20 years and discontinued in 1972 when the 20-year agreement between Healey and Austin came to an end. Right when the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was launched.

This gorgeous British green Austin-Healey Bugeye Sprite, circa 1960, is a perfect example of one of the most iconic models in the Austin-Healey line-up. Something quite interesting about this roadster, is that the car lacks of roll-up windows or a hardtop. The windows that came with this car are one-piece detachable frames with sliding panels and the car comes with a soft vinyl cover to protect it from the rain —there is no hardtop or retractable roof for this vehicle. 

The Austin-Healey Sprite was launched in 1958 and eliminated just like all other Austin- Healeys in 1972. At the time, this automobile was presented as a direct competitor to the MG Midget. One hell of a competitor to be quite frank. 

The interior —simple, uncluttered and functional— still in pretty good shape, is living testament of the cars from that era. The only thing one could wish for, is that this car had the wooden steering wheel instead of the resin one. Its leather bucket seats with no headrests—also in British green— still present the unmistakeable original white piping that adds the perfect contrasting touch. This car is so tiny that anyone taller than 6'2" will not be able to drive it.

If you want to go back in time and feel like you are ready to conquer the iconic 'Carrera Panamericana', then get ready to pay between $18,000 to $25,000 USD for a mint example like this one. Keep in mind that this automobile is one of the most iconic vehicles of all-time and definitely worth the money.

For more info on Austin-Healeys click here.

Experience: Puerto Madero. A Great Argentinean Restaurant in Mexico.

We are suckers for Argentinean steakhouses and we know a lot about them. We are lucky to have been to some of the best ones in Buenos Aires, New York City, and Mexico City. This time we stopped by 'Puerto Madero', a relatively newer place —considering the decades that others have been around in Mexico City— that was launched as a fierce competitor to other very popular Argentinean steakhouse names like 'El Rincón Argentino' and 'Cambalache'. 'El Rincón Argentino' was opened in the 80s by Juan Carlos Malazzo, a former soccer player for the Argentinean team River Plate a.k.a. 'Los Millonarios de River' —the millionaires from River. 'Cambalache' was partially owned by the now-deceased Argentinean actor and wrestler Wolf Ruvinskis.

'Puerto Madero' opened its first location in the upscale Mexico City neighborhood of 'Polanco' on 'Presidente Mazaryk' Avenue —the equivalent to Madison Ave. in NYC, Orchard Street in Singapore, or Bond Street in London— and after a successful launch, made its way to other areas and cities throughout Mexico and now it even has a location in Miami, Florida under the PM name. Its name was taken from the popular 'Puerto Madero' waterfront in the city of Buenos Aires right on the banks of the 'Río de la Plata' river. The 'Puerto Madero' waterfront is one of the best examples of the latest architectural trends in the capital city of Argentina.

This time we decided to have lunch at the one located in Cancun, Quintana Roo. The 'Puerto Madero' is one of the preferred places for watchlifestylers enjoying the good life. During our lunch, we spotted a great selection of watches that included several Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks, Offshores, a few Hublots, and a handful of Rolexes.

As we walked into the restaurant ,we were greeted by the grilling rooms and one of the best stocked bars in the city. The grills are really amazing as the cooking grids are suspended in the air and held by chains fitted with a mechanism that allows the grill masters to lift or lower the meats as desired depending on the cooking temperature that is required.

Once we got to our table, we noticed the beautiful design touches on the perfectly white chairs where the backrests feature the names of the most important family owned wineries in Argentina.

After sitting down, we ordered a few beers, appetizers and wine. The selection included an amazing Octopus Carpaccio, a 'Provoleta' —grilled provolone cheese with olive oil and herbs— and a few 'Empanadas Argentinas' —Argentinean style turnovers filled with meat.   Immediately thereafter, we started talking about watches and the good life.

Along with our appetizers, a bottle of delicious Argentinean 'Saurus Select 2009' arrived to our table. 'Saurus Select' is a Malbec wine produced and bottled in the province of Neuquen in the Patagonia region of Argentina by the renowned Bodega Familia Schroeder. An oaky, full-bodied wine that is a perfect pairing for Argentinean steaks.   

While we talked about the latest watches presented at Baselworld 2013 and each of our wish lists, we decided to order the main course. Of course, we ordered one of the most popular Argentinean steaks, 'Bife de Chorizo' —an over-sized New York Strip. Along with it, the traditional 'Papas Souffle' —souffle fries— that are a staple at this place. These fries are fried at different temperatures making them extra crunchy on the outside but soft and full of air as a 'souffle' on the inside—a culinary work of art. The basket in which they are served is also made of fried potatoes and fully edible.

As we finished our meal, we decided to move out to the gorgeous terrace overlooking the 'Nichupte' lagoon to enjoy our dessert, cigars and Port. For dessert, a delicious cheese blintze topped with berries and a house made 'Alfajor' with tons of 'Dulce de Leche'. This time, we smoked Sir Winston Churchill's favorite brand, Romeo y Julieta straight from Habana, Cuba. 

As we finished our desserts, sipped our Ports and smoked our cigars, another story of the good life came to an end. Another day in the life of watchlifestylers.

Health, watches, amazing food, fantastic wines and the best Habanos. The only other thing we could ask for in this life is to live a long existence. Watchlifestylers remember, this moment is your life. 

For more info on 'Puerto Madero' restaurants click here.  

Upcoming: 5th Edition 'Only Watch' Charity Auction. September 28, 2013 in Monaco.

The Principality of Monaco will be hosting the fifth edition of the exceptional 'Only Watch' charity watch auction benefiting research for Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

Recognized as the world’s first charity watch auction, Only Watch will take place on September 28th in Monaco and will be conducted by the watch auctioneers, Antiquorum. 33 of the world’s leading watch manufactures will each donate a unique timepiece specially created for the occasion.

The proceeds from the sale will be donated to the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy – promoter of Only Watch with Antiquorum Auctioneers and the Monaco Yacht Show, in order to help finance research for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a degenerative neuromuscular disease affecting 1 in 3,500 boys, therefore 250,000 children, adolescents, and young adults around the world.

From September 6th, an international exhibit of the Only Watch collection of timepieces for men and women will travel the world: Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, New York, Geneva and will be concluded by a presentation during the Monaco Yacht Show —September 25th to 28th. The auction will take place on September 28th at 11 am —GMT+1— in the 'Salle Belle Epoque' of the Hôtel Hermitage.

Participating brands include: Backes & Strauss, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Chanel, Chopard, Chronoswiss, Corum, De Bethune, Dewitt, Girard-Perregaux, Harry Winston, Hublot, Ikepod, Jaquet Droz, Louis Vuitton, Montblanc, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin and Zenith amongst others.

For more info click here.

Insider: Baume & Mercier Capeland Flyback Chronograph. Telemeter and Tachymeter Scales in One Watch.

Before we start talking about this fantastic watch, we need to take a pause and mention how impressed we are with the new timepieces from this legendary manufacture. From their Capeland Worldtimer to their Clifton Annual Calendar with Moonphase and now this Flyback Chronograph, Baume & Mercier definitely got its groove back.

This beautiful Baume & Mercier Capeland Flyback Chronograph in stainless steel ref. 10006, is inspired by a model released in 1948 but with some subtle differences. Featuring the now traditional pebble-shaped case measuring 44 mm in diameter and a domed sapphire crystal, this watch has an unparalleled vintage look. The satin-brushed finished case along with the polished bezel, crown and pushers create a perfect horological symphony in all the sense of the word. The crown is nice and big, easy to use and the pushers offer the right resistance to pressure when activating the chrono function.

The watch is fitted with a beautiful but somewhat busy off-white dial displaying two registers —one for the running seconds and the other a 30-minute chrono register—, a date aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock and two graduated scales —one is a tachymeter and the other a telemeter. The contrast created by the anodized Breguet style blue hands against the off-white colored dial is perfect and also a great match to the blue concentric tachymeter scale on the center of the dial.  

A telemeter chronograph allows the user to approximately measure the distance to an event that can be both seen and heard —i.e. lightning—using the speed of sound. The user should start the chronograph at the instant the event is seen and stop it at the moment the event is heard. The chrono seconds hand will point to the distance measured on the scale around the edge of the face. The telemeter scale shows kilometers in the case of this watch. A flyback chronograph is a chrono where the user can reset the chrono on the fly —by pushing the reset pusher— in order to take a second time measurement without the need to stop the chronograph first.  

The display case back allows for full view of the La Joux Perret 8147-2 automatic movement with flyback chrono function and 27 jewels that provides a power-reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. The movement is nicely decorated with 'Côtes de Genève' and 'perlage'. The rotor features a cut-out with the Baume & Mercier Phi symbol and the brand's name.    

The watch wears very comfortably as it is fitted with a black alligator strap with pin buckle. As you can see in the pictures, the watch wears larger than its size and more like a 46 mm due to the pebbled-shape of the case and the thin bezel. It's also important to mention that the watch sits high on the wrist —16.5 mm in thickness— but not in an uncomfortable way. The vintage look and feel of this timepiece is unparalleled and it's a perfect watch that can be worn dressed up or dressed down. 

Sticker Price $7,500 USD. For more info on Baume & Mercier click here.

Experience: Tourbillon Boutique Chicago. Eight Magnificent Brands in One Luxurious Place on Michigan Avenue's Magnificent Mile.

As we found ourselves walking down Chicago’s magnificent mile on Michigan Avenue —just north of Wacker Drive and a few buildings away from the iconic Gothic Chicago Tribune tower— enjoying a rare sunny day, we stumbled upon one of the most magnificent watch boutiques in the city. The boutique is located on Michigan Avenue close to the corner with Ohio street. Trust us, you just can’t miss the Swiss flag flanked by the U.S. flags blowing in the wind.

Tourbillon is a group of watch boutiques launched by the Swatch Group —the largest watch brand holding in the world— a few years ago and is composed of 22 boutiques in some of the most upscale locations and fascinating cities in the world including New York, Moscow, Las Vegas, Beverly Hills, Geneva, Lugano, St. Petersburg, San Francisco, Seattle, South Coast, Short Hills and St. Barth amongst others.

Chicago’s Tourbillon boutique is a relatively new boutique that opened its doors in December 2012 and in just a few months, has now become a must-visit landmark for watchlifestylers living in Chicago or just visiting. In this boutique, you will find an impressive inventory from Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Leon Hatot, Omega, Swatch and Tiffany & Co. Come experience this luxurious and elegant boutique —with one of the most fascinating timepiece

As you head into this fantastic boutique, you will first be greeted by two amazing areas for Breguet and Omega that are almost like mini-boutiques within the boutique. As you walk in, you can’t miss Omega’s Baselworld 2013 novelties that are eye-catching. The Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GoodPlanet is there with its blue and orange ceramic bezel that would be a perfect fit to match that Chicago Bears jersey that you’ve been wearing since 1985. Now that you’ve finally seen it in person, you like it even more. 

As you turn around to continue to walk through the boutique, you can’t miss Breguet’s corner —classy, inspiring and full of 'haute horlogerie' creations. These creations are a living tribute to one of the greatest watchmakers of all time, Abraham-Louis Breguet —the creator of the tourbillon around 1795. As you walk around admiring the displays, you notice the book that is standing in between them and you take a closer look. You are surrounded by masterpieces, some of the most fascinating complications like the Tourbillon, the 'La Musicale' masterpiece, the Classique Grande Complication and even some of the cufflinks in their collection. You then ask one of the friendly, savvy employees to pull out the Classique Grande Complication ref. 5447 in white gold for you to peruse. With it’s grandeur and hand carved 'guilloché' dial, you are just left in awe. The display case back allows for full view of one of the most fascinating and intricately decorated calibres you’ve ever seen in person. Pure perfection right in front of your eyes.

Your next stop is at the Blancpain area —right behind Breguet— where you help yourself to a delicious Lindt chocolate. Savor the chocolate as much as you are savoring this watch shopping experience. You have been in the boutique for fifteen minutes and yet you just don’t want to leave.

Every display and every timepiece you peruse transports you to the 'Vallée de Joux' where these timepieces are carefully handcrafted. As you check out Blancpain’s displays, you notice that almost every reference from the Fifty Fathoms collection is available including the coveted No Radiations Limited Edition watch.

While you are sitting in the ultra comfortable white leather chairs, you are informed that they have one of the rare and very limited Blancpain Chinese Calendar timepieces in stock. You need to see that masterpiece of horology and if it winks at you, you know you’ll have to get if before someone else does.

After drooling over the fascinating Blancpain Chinese Calendar, you hold your breath and decide to think about it as there are still more watches you want to see. As you keep walking towards the back, the Jaquet Droz and Leon Hatot —exclusively available at the Tourbillon boutiques— displays catch your eye. While you admire the beautiful white orchids that flank the Leon Hatot displays, you think about your significant other and what she might like for you to bring back home for her —a piece of jewelry or perhaps a Jaquet Droz Ivory Enamel watch. 

As you reach the end of the store, the journey is almost over, but Glasshütte Original, Swatch and Tiffany & Co. are there to get your attention before you make your final buying decisions. As you look around Glashütte Original, you notice the new Senator Panorama Date presented at Baselworld 2013. You’ve been wanting to see this watch in person since the end of April and now looks like it might be time to get it. At the same time, you check the lovely PanoDate PanoReserve.

Finally you’ve made up your mind and today you will be walking out with more than one watch. The friendly staff walks you upstairs to the private lounge area where you sit down and relax in the comfortable and beautiful brown Le Corbusier chairs as you sip down an espresso and savor another Lindt chocolate.

As you are getting ready to leave with your purchases, you take one more look at the fascinating space of the boutique and you give the Blancpain area one last look. Should you also buy that Fifty Fathoms No Radiations Limited Edition before it’s gone? As you leave the boutique fully satisfied with your new purchases, you look back at the tourbillon logo on the door handles and wonder when the new Glashütte Original Pavonina will be in so you can buy it for your significant other.

For more info on Tourbillon Boutiques click here. For each individual brand click on it respectively Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Leon Hatot, Omega, Swatch and Tiffany & Co.

Tourbillon Boutique Chicago
545 N Michigan Avenue
Chicago, IL 60611

312.836.3800

Store Hours:

Monday - Saturday 10 am - 6 pm
Sunday 12 pm - 5 pm