Whenever watchlifestylers hear the name Breguet, the first thing that comes to mind is elegance and an immediate association of the brand to their Classique, Tradition or Marine collections; however, the Type XX / Type XXI collection rarely comes to mind when thinking of this amazing manufacture.
The Type XX was designed in the 50s for the French naval air army and all the chronographs within this collection are fitted with a flyback mechanism that is labeled by Breguet in French language as 'Retour en Vol', flyback in English.
The Type XX / Type XXI collection features watches divided into two lines: the Aéronavale and the Transatlantique. The main difference is that the latter includes a date indicator while the first one doesn't. The Breguet Type XXI Transatlantique ref. 3810ST/92/9ZU in stainless steel has a solid and robust case measuring 42.5mm in diameter and 15.4mm in thickness. Because of the unique shape and width of its turning bezel, the watch appears somewhat larger than its actual size. The attention to details on the construction of the case is remarkable and the fluting on the caseband is very unique and great at refracting light. The watch is fitted with a screw-down crown and pump chrono pushers.
The dial is perhaps the most interesting and fascinating part of this watch. Made of ruthenium —a material rarely used by other watch manufacturers—, the dial appears brownish or even grayish depending on the lighting conditions. The dial features a running seconds register at 9, an hour chrono register and a trapezoid date aperture at 6 and a 24-hour indicator at 3 o'clock. The seconds and minutes for the chrono are indicated with two hands set at the center pinion and a minute scale imprinted on the outer ring of the dial. The white Arabic numerals along with the diamond shaped markers round up the dial configuration very nicely. The movement inside this watch is the Breguet calibre 584Q with 25 jewels and a power-reserve of 48 hours. One downside of this watch is that it is fitted with a solid case back; therefore, the calibre cannot be admired as on most Breguet watches.
This watch is fitted with a brown crocodile strap with a deployant buckle. The strap is quite comfortable as well as nice and thick. For sure, this is a strap that will last a long time and that can take on daily abuse and wear.
If you are looking to get your first Breguet but you can't afford one of their complications, this is the perfect watch with a very nice price point. Also available with stainless steel bracelet or in 18K rose gold with a brown crocodile strap.
Sticker Price $10,300 USD. For more info on Breguet click here.