Today on the first day of the New Year 2014, we want to wish everyone health, love, happiness and wealth for the new year that just started. We would also like to thank you for your undivided support last year and may all your dreams come true this year.
Meanwhile —as we get ready to go back to our usual schedule and publishing frequency tomorrow—, enjoy this image of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee ref. 5036420.
Happy New Year 2014!!!!
As we wrap up the year and we say goodbye to the old to welcome the new, here are twelve amazing timepieces we reviewed this year to celebrate each month of the year. These 24 images tell a story and capture the best of these fascinating watches. If you want to check the full review for each timepiece, just click on the watch's name.
While there are many more amazing timepieces that we reviewed or that were presented in 2013, we feel that these timepieces are some of our favorites and all of them are great examples of fine horology.
May the new year bring you and your families lots of health, love, happiness and wealth to buy more watches!!! Happy New Year 2014 from Watch Collecting Lifestyle!!!.
Now, enjoy.
During the short but exciting existence of our blog —only nine months live— we've come to realize how fulfilling it is to have such a large following in such a short period of time. Our watch blog was launched on April 1st, 2013 and so far it has been a very exciting adventure.
We would like to thank our contributors, the manufactures that have allowed us review their collections, but foremost, we thank each and everyone of you that come read our content on a daily basis or a few times a week. To all those of you that have stumbled upon our blog while searching for that next grail or that special watch that you just have to have, we thank you deeply for bookmarking our site and becoming regulars.
As we approach the end of the year, looking forward to our new watch adventures that will kick-off at the SIHH 2014 in Geneva, we would like to do a quick recap of our first nine months with a photo essay that will show you why watch collecting is our passion and why we love what we do for you.
Now, click on the gallery below and enjoy the ride as much as we had so far.
In 2014, Jaquet Droz will be launching three new Ateliers d’Art models that pay tribute to the sign of the Horse. The horse has been a key part of Man's history since the beginning of time. In 2014, China will mark the arrival of a new year with this sign, the seventh in the Chinese zodiac, which is celebrated by Jaquet Droz every year. It is a way of remembering the connection between the brand's founder —the first watchmaker to walk through the gates of the Forbidden City— and the Middle Kingdom. The brand thus continues its annual tradition by honoring this trusty companion and symbol of loyalty, creativity and daring in its Ateliers d'Art series. Three exclusive models have been created using the exclusive know-how of Jaquet Droz's master craftsmen, specialized in highly complex techniques: engraving, painting and Grand Feu enamel. Two Arab thoroughbreds – considered the most beautiful horses in the world – have been delicately painted on the ivory enamel dial of the Petite Heure Minute 39 mm.
Captured in full gallop, they seem to want to catch up with the sculptural mustang that appears on the dial of the Petite Heure Minute 43 mm. Extremely wild and difficult to tame, this horse from the American Northwest —depicted in red gold and engraved in bas-relief— seems to jump out from the black enamel. The champlevé technique, used here for the first time by Jaquet Droz, highlights the movement of the mane and the tail, both filled in with black Grand Feu enamel.
On each of these models, a horse's head is also represented on the back of the white gold oscillating weight.
The dial of the Petite Heure Minute 41 mm has been chosen as the showcase to depict a horse rearing up on its hind legs against a backdrop of the Great Wall of China, engraved and patinated by hand on a mother-of-pearl dial. Bold, powerful and elegant, this fearless horse in 18-carat red gold appears to protect the Great Wall, which is also hand engraved on the 22-carat red gold oscillating weight next to the Jaquet Droz signature of two stars.
Loyal to its spirit of exclusivity, Jaquet Droz is offering each of these new models in a limited edition of 88 pieces with a red gold case and available on a brown or black alligator leather strap. An opportunity to celebrate all the promises of the new year with constant refinement.
For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.
Neither entirely a movement nor exactly a case – or rather both at once: introducing the Altiplano 38mm 900P, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. Merging the hand-wound calibre with the case elements, it is designed as a single entity in order to achieve record-breaking slenderness at just 3.65 mm thin. Representing a crowning achievement in over half a century of virtuoso skills displayed in the realm of ultra-thin watchmaking where Piaget reigns supreme, it conveys the excellence of the two integrated Manufactures run by the Maison. Places where the skills of the watchmakers, case constructors and designers converge in giving life to this masterpiece of reliability and precision.
2014 is a vintage year for Piaget! The Maison is celebrating its 140th anniversary and marks the occasion by launching a model that is set to defy the conventions of ultra-thin Fine Watchmaking for many years to come: the Altiplano 38 mm 900P. While clearly geared towards cutting-edge innovation, it is also a nod to history, since it gets the 900P part of its name from Calibre 9P, which was the first ultra-thin hand-wound movement made by Piaget in 1957. That particular mechanism measured just 2 mm thin and sealed Piaget’s destiny in the field of ultra-thin horology. By 1960, Piaget was ready to set a first record with its Calibre 12P, the world’s thinnest automatic movement at just 2.3 mm. The following years witnessed a spate of new slimness records in the fields of hand-wound and automatic models, with or without horological complications – like Calibre 600P, the world’s thinnest hand-wound shaped tourbillon movement; and 1208P, an automatic movement that was also the thinnest in its category, to mention just a couple of these feats. Constantly reaffirming its unconditional love of slim mechanisms, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget has produced no less than 23 ultra-thin calibres out of the 35 movements developed and produced in-house, of which 12 have set new records for thinness over the past few years and are now part of the collection.
While the Altiplano 38 mm 900P merges the case and movement to establish itself as the thinnest mechanical watch ever, it also stems from another fusion without which such a feat would have been impossible: that of the two Manufactures Piaget – one based in La Côte aux Fées, where the movements are traditionally made; and the other in Plan-les-Ouates, where the cases are crafted. These skills are now inextricably intermingled, since within the Altiplano 38mm 900P, the mechanism and the external components form a single indivisible entity. For a full three years, watchmakers, case constructors and designers worked together at each stage of development, production, adjustment and finishing in order to give life to this slender marvel. Each technical choice had an aesthetic impact, and vice versa. While each of the 145 parts composing the Altiplano 38 mm 900P has been trimmed to a size sometimes barely thicker than a hair’s breadth –including some wheels measuring a mere 0.12 mm thin compared with 0.20 mm on a classic movement– special care has been devoted to clearances. In other words, the process involved cleverly arranging the components to within the nearest hundredth of a millimetre so as to create optimal play between the fixed and mobile organs, while being careful to ensure that the later move freely and thus guarantee the smooth running of the mechanism.
Nonetheless, the true secret of this extreme slenderness lies in the structure of the case itself, of which the back also serves as the mainplate. Thereby merging calibre and case, the latter was machined directly from the case back in order to house the mechanical parts. This highly complex architecture meant reversing movement construction so as to fit the bridges on the dial side —an approach that also has an aesthetic effect by keeping them visible. To save another precious few millimetres, the entire mechanism and the hand-fitting system are contained within the thickness of the balance-wheel itself, thus entailing an off-centered display of the hours and minutes entirely in tune with the iconic design features of the Altiplano line. These characteristics are further enhanced by the entirely visible wheeltrain that invites the owner of the watch to plunge into the very heart of this supremely slender and technically sophisticated mechanism. Working within this extremely confined space, Piaget has devised a suspended barrel hanging from a single bridge on the dial side, contrary to classic barrels that are also fixed to the mainplate side. This highly unusual device is no way detrimental to the performance of the mechanism, since the Altiplano 38 mm 900P has a generous power reserve of around 48 hours.
When a watch is subjected to strong pressure, such as when immersed in water, its glass or crystal is slightly deformed. While this physical phenomenon goes relatively unnoticed on a classic timepiece, the same is certainly not true of an ultra-thin watch. Given the extremely confined space available, the glass would be liable to press on the hands when deformed, thus causing the movement to stop. To avoid this challenge to any ultra-thin model, Piaget has come up with a revolutionary device —patent pending— representing a major breakthrough in ensuring the reliability of this type of watch. Instead of fitting the hands above the bridges, Piaget has placed them underneath, thereby freeing up space between the cannon-pinion and the crystal. When the latter is deformed by the effects of pressure, it presses not on the hands – placed below the bridge level – but instead on the wheel-train bridge, thus avoiding any consequences on the rate of the movement. While for Piaget, the extreme slimming down of the parts in an ultra-thin watch must in no way compromise its reliability, the same goes for the level of finishing. The Altiplano 38 mm 900P is no
exception to the rule. Even though some of its 145 parts remain hidden from sight, all of them have been meticulously finished in keeping with the noblest horological traditions, through countless hours of patient work rendered even trickier by the extraordinary slenderness of the components. The mainplate carved out of the watch case-back has been satin-brushed and sandblasted, while the wheels are alternately sunburst or circular satin-brushed. Hollowed so as to reveal the subtle mechanical
intricacies at the heart of the Altiplano 38 mm 900P, the bevelled and satin-brushed sunburst bridges are black-coated to create elegant contrasts with the white gold case. The index-assembly bearing the Piaget “P” strikes a resounding signature note within this subtly orchestrated Fine Watchmaking symphony.
Sticker Price TBC. For more info on Piaget click here.
Technical Specifications
Piaget Altiplano 900P
Case Diameter: 38 mm. Thinnest ever mechanical in 18K white gold.
Calibre and case merge to form a seamless whole with a black-coated movement
Strap: Black alligator leather strap with 18K white gold pin buckle
Power reserve: approx. 48 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph /3 Hz
Thickness: 3.65 mm (case + movement)
Number of jewels: 20
Number of components: 145 (case + movement)
Over the years, the Reverso has appeared in a number of different guises and been enriched with various unusual sizes and new horological complications – all the while remaining loyal to the spirit of the watch with two faces. On the occasion of the 80th anniversary of this timepiece that has become a cult object, Jaeger-LeCoultre chose to return to the very origins of a legend by presenting the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931, directly inspired by the aesthetic codes of the historical model. This creation, distinguished by an ultra-thin case, contemporary dimensions and remarkably faithfulness to the original, was enthusiastically received by devotees of the Reverso and by watch connoisseurs who expressed the wish that this vintage edition should not remain a one-off model. In response to their desires, the Manufacture already introduced the Grande Reverso Rouge with a deep red dial in 2012, followed the next year by the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Blue. For 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the third member of this splendid trilogy: the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 with a chocolate-toned dial.
The new model, entirely in keeping with its historical ascendance, vividly evokes the finest hours of Art Deco. Its shapes, its color and its materials are the ultimate expression of a movement that heralded the inception of industrial design while favoring hand craftsmanship executed to perfection. Entranced by this delightful color palette, the eye naturally lingers on the pleasing contrasts between the glowing chocolate shade of the watch face and the pink gold of the case, including the traditional gadroons framing the dial. This irresistible association is further underscored by the judicious reinterpretation of the aesthetic principles governing the original. Apart from the 12 o’clock numeral, the hours are shown by baton-shaped hour-markers, while the hour and minute hands feature a dagger-type profile. The small seconds at 6 o’clock perform a once a minute rotation on the dedicated rectangular subdial. This picture of pure, restrained refinement would not be complete without a mention of the “REVERSO” inscription exactly reproducing that appearing on the historical model. Everything might seem to have been said, and yet it is only now that the distinctive emotional ties uniting an owner and his Reverso can begin to be woven.
The usual chestnut brown alligator leather strap with pink gold pin buckle is just one of the options proposed by the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux for securing the Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 to the wrist. Polo players, who have been wild about the Reverso for over 80 years, are no less demanding when it comes to choosing the pair of boots they will wear to compete in various prestigious tournaments. They show no hesitation in confidently striding through the doors of Casa Fagliano, established since 1892 in the worldwide polo capital, Buenos Aires. For well over a century, the Fagliano family has been dedicated to a single craft of which it masters all the mysteries and intricacies: fine leather work. The descendants of the company founder continue to share the many duties involved in an authentic family-style division of labor. Their creations are keenly sought-after by the best polo players who simply could not imagine playing a match without their favorite boots. For the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, Casa Fagliano has agreed to produce hand-crafted straps in successive stages following the strict principles of time-honored tradition in working with cordovan leather, which is renowned for its exceptional resistance. Delivered along with each watch, the strap made in the Casa Fagliano workshops is distinguished by its elegant suppleness and hand-made mode of production that makes it truly one of a kind. The Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre is proud of this partnership that further strengthens the ties between polo and the Reverso. Over eight decades since its birth, aesthetes will be more delighted than ever to welcome the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931, which combines passion and prodigious expertise with the legendary quality characterizing all timepieces bearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature.
For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
Technical Specifications
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 Chocolate Dial ref. Q2782560.
Movement: Mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822/2, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 21,600 vph, 19 jewels, thickness of 2.95 mm, 45-hour power reserve.
Dial: Chocolate dial with powdered numerals and hour-markers.
Hands: Baton-type, faceted, gold plated
Case: 18-carat pink gold with a height of 46.8 mm, a width of 27.4 mm and a thickness of 7.3 mm with a polished finish.
Water-resistant: 3 bars/30 meters.
Straps and buckle: Matte brown alligator leather 20/18 and 2nd strap in cordovan leather, crafted by “Casa Fagliano” of Buenos Aires fitted with a pin buckle in 18 carat pink gold.
Pre SIHH 2014, A. Lange & Söhne unveils the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase that gives the exactly calculated to 122.6 years moon phase display a shiny appearance on the dial. A patented method of coating the moon's disk gives this astronomical complication a highly detailed appearance. The moon is a fascinating celestial body. It determines not only the tides, but also affects the rhythm of life of many creatures and plants. A moon phase display is therefore highly appreciated by many watch lovers.
Since its relaunch, the Saxon manufacture has presented twelve models with such a complication. However, never before the moon phase display has been so prominent as it is in the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase. The popular astronomical display received a large stage on the dial. You can now clearly see how the moon phase display follows the actual phases of the moon in a remarkably realistic manner because it is linked to the continuum of the hour. Thus, it is — just like the moon itself— always on the move and in such small steps that you cannot detect this movement with the naked eye.
In addition, the moon phase indicator represents the time from new moon to new moon with an accuracy of 99.9978 percent. 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds , the average synod lunar months. For simplicity, the cycle is therefore rounded in most classical moon phase displays to 29.5 days. This leads per cycle to a deviation of 44 minutes and 3 seconds, which adds up after two and a half years to one day. The much more accurately calculated seven-gear on the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase reduces the deviation per lunar cycle to less than a minute. Once set up properly, you would have to correct the display by one day after 122.6 years. With a corrector pushpiece between 7 and 8 o'clock on the case band, the display can be adjusted. The solid gold moon disc testifies the perfection claim of the Lange product developers. The result of extensive research and development work is a patented coating process that through an unparalleled color brilliance and sharpness of all the details meets the highest aesthetic standards. Due to interference effects —the superposition of reflections— all non-blue color components of the incoming daylight are absorbed. So is in the eye of the beholder an intensely blue color impression. The more than 300 stars of different size are cut so sharply drawn with a laser that they act like a miniaturized representation of the Milky Way .
With the combination of decentralized dial design, large date and technically advanced caliber, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase bears all the marks of the most famous family of watches from A. Lange & Söhne. The calibre with an impressive power reserve of 72 hours is only 4.7 mm thick thanks to the use of only one barrel. The case, available in yellow gold, rose gold or platinum has a diameter of 41.0 mm. With a balance spring developed and manufactured in-house, a three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver and intricately hand decorated parts, the Lange calibre L095.3 features all the classic elements of the timepieces from this manufacture.
For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.
Press Release
Two of the world’s foremost design pioneers, Sir Jonathan Ive, KBE, and Marc Newson, CBE, have collaborated with musician and philanthropist Bono to organize a (RED) Auction celebrating the very best of design and innovation. Proceeds from the November 23, 2013 sale at Sotheby’s New York will benefit The Global Fund to fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria. The auction featured icons of design selected by Sir Jonathan Ive and Marc Newson and works that were personally customized by the pair:
The custom Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos 561 clock with unique red accents created for the (RED) Auction and estimated at $20,000-30,000 USD resulted in $425,000 USD.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea watch which has been customized with a unique red dial and the (RED) logo engraved on the back of the watch, estimated at $10,000-15,000 USD, sold for $365,000 USD.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s two unique pieces raised $790,000 USD at (RED) Auction, while the auction raised $12,883,000 USD to fight against AIDS in Africa.
For more info on RED click here and on Jaeger-LeCoultre here.
Bright, white, sleek and powerful, the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon to be presented for the first time at the SIHH —Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie— 2014 in Geneva is a watch for avant-garde collectors and connoisseurs that brooks no compromise in either technical or aesthetic terms.
Its sculpted titanium case middle and integrated rubber strap combine with a white ceramic bezel to frame the highly architectural array of tourbillon carriage and second ‘GMT’ time-zone display inside —case and movement in perfect harmony. New for 2014, however, is the flash of pure white center-stage: an intricately machined upper bridge made of white ceramic —only possible now, thanks to Audemars Piguet’s ongoing advances in materials science.
The Royal Oak Concept was first unveiled in 2002 as an avant-garde, 30th-anniversary tribute to Audemars Piguet’s legendary octagonal Royal Oak – designed by Gérald Genta as the world’s first luxury watch in stainless steel.
The Concept’s ultra-hard Alacrite 602 case was more rounded to highlight Genta’s signature octagonal bezel and its eight hexagonal screws. The dial was left off, exposing the advanced micro-mechanics ticking within. All these revolutionary design codes have persisted throughout the Concept series, from 2008’s Royal Oak Carbon Concept Tourbillon and Chronograph – an ultra-light timepiece that was the first to combine a forged-carbon case and movement mainplate – to the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon of 2011, with ultra-light, ultra-resistant titanium case and black-ceramic octagonal bezel, push pieces and crown.
This year’s Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon features a white ceramic bezel, crown and push pieces instead of black, all heightening the contrast with the titanium case middle. However, in typical, trailblazing style, the Manufacture has now gone one step further and incorporated ceramic into the movement itself, replacing the blackened upper bridge of Calibre 2913 with white ceramic. As a result, the new Calibre 2930 is visually transformed, its dazzling, hourglass-shaped bridge further enlivened by the double symmetry of the tourbillon bridges and GMT display.
White ceramic is about nine times harder than steel, meaning the manufacture of the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s bezel, push pieces, crown and especially its intricately shaped upper bridge was a complex and lengthy process.
Ceramic is an almost totally scratch-proof composite material that can be scratched only by diamonds, calling for the use of special milling-cutter machines equipped with diamond-tipped tools. Treating the roughed-out surfaces and edges to a polished or satin-brushed finish represents a daunting technical challenge, due to ceramic’s inherent resistance to abrasion. It takes around 8 hours to make the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s bezel, compared with 45 minutes if it were steel, calling upon all the savoir-faire of the watchmakers and engineers. As well as giving an exceptionally smooth final appearance, ceramic has a practical purpose, displaying extreme resistance to wear.
Similarly, the titanium used for the case middle and sapphire surround is ultra strong, comfortable to wear twice and as light as steel – advantageous for a watch of such generous 44mm proportions. Further demonstrating Audemars Piguet’s deeply entrenched knowledge of high-tech metals and materials, the inner flange circling the dial is made of lightweight aluminum, hardened by anodization.
This daring cocktail of ceramics and metals is just the latest chapter in Audemars Piguet’s ongoing quest to push the envelope when it comes to materials science —a quest that started over 40 years ago with the Manufacture’s most daring move of all, using steel in a luxury watch for the very first time.
The defining characteristic of Audemars Piguet’s Concept watches has always been the coherence of case and movement. The ultra-modern ‘engine’ is seamlessly integrated within its ultra-modern ‘chassis’, whose techy aesthetic perfectly complements and showcases the exposed micro-mechanics.
An impressive feat in its own right, the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s hand-wound Calibre 2930 features a twin barrel ensuring 10-day power reserve, tourbillon and second time-zone ‘GMT’ display.
Its timekeeping is regulated by a 3Hz (21,600vph) escapement, rotating inside a tourbillon carriage every 60 seconds, compensating for the effects of the Earth's gravity when the watch is oriented vertically for any length of time.
The tourbillon cage comprises 85 components, yet only 0.45g in weight. An experienced watchmaker spends almost three days assembling its 85 components, including two full days to install the cage, while the full workings will require over two weeks of work. Audemars Piguet is still one of the few manufactures to have mastered all the intricacies of this complication, with over 25 different movements featuring a tourbillon. Each component is beveled, polished, assembled and balanced by hand.
The GMT display provides an instant reading of the time in a second time-zone. It is adjusted using the push piece at 4 o’clock (one press adjusts the time by one hour). The indication of the second time-zone, based on 12 hours, comprises two superimposed discs, making it easy to tell the time. The first, on which the figures are inscribed, completes one turn in 12 hours. The second, just below, completes a turn in 24 hours and has 2 colored areas: a white half for daytime and a black half for night-time. This makes it easier to read the figures.
Audemars Piguet’s proprietary parallel double barrel system ensures the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon runs for as many as 10 days before it needs to be manually wound again, generating a constant force during some 237 hours of autonomy, enhancing timekeeping precision.
The energy from Calibre 2930’s two 10-day barrels is fed into the geartrain at the same time via a single pinion bridging the two. This is a far gentler means of transmitting energy than the usual system of two series-linked 5-day barrels. It also reduces pressure in the gearing, the friction in the barrels is used to offset torque variations, and it gives increased running precision, greater power reserve and enhanced reliability.
The Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon also features a selection indicator mechanism. According to the position of the winding stem, the hand positioned on the dial at 6 o’clock indicates the function selected. The H, N and R indications correspond to the three positions of the winding stem, meaning time-setting, neutral and winding respectively.
For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
Calibre 2930, hand-wound manufacture
Total diameter: 35.60mm (15 ¾ lines)
Thickness: 9.90mm
Number of jewels: 29
Number of parts: 291
Power reserve: 237h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3Hz (21,600vph)
White ceramic upper bridge
Finishing: hand-finished bridges and mainplate, hand finished cut-out parts, polished angles, hand-drawn file strokes on upper surface and matt finish beneath.
Titanium case
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
White ceramic bezel
Screw-locked crown and white ceramic push piece
Water-resistant to 100m
Openworked
Second time-zone indicator at 3 o’clock
Crown position indicator at 6 o’clock
Tourbillon at 9 o’clock with black anodized aluminum bridge
White gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Black anodized aluminum inner bezel
White rubber strap with titanium AP folding clasp
24-hour GMT display
Day and night indicator
Functions selection
Hours and minutes
RO 26580IO.OO.D010CA.SDT
Pure, rare, and eternal, platinum is the ultimate material in the field of Fine Watchmaking. To honor this intrinsic alliance between pure mechanical refinement and inestimably precious material, Vacheron Constantin created the Collection Excellence Platine in 2006, composed of creations issued in limited series and designed for collectors of outstanding timepieces. This year the Malte Tourbillon —introduced in pink gold in 2012— joins this exceptional collection. It is in this spirit that Vacheron Constantin offers a new interpretation of this stunning complication with the new Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine.
On a pure, uncluttered 950 platinum dial with a sandblasted finish, discreetly adorned with the inscription “Pt 950” appearing between 4 and 5 o’clock, along with white gold Roman numerals and hour-markers, the tourbillon bearing the seconds hand finds its natural place, perfectly integrated within the new refined lines of the Malte collection. Its 6 o’clock position implied subtly offsetting the axis of the hour and minute hands that thereby stand out majestically above their beating heart.
The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine comes with a curving 38 x 48.24 case in 950 platinum. Secured by a 950 platinum folding clasp, the dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap is graced with a saddle-stitched finish, hand-sewn with silk and 950 platinum threads lending an ultimate touch of perfection. This model is released in a 50-piece individually numbered edition.
Such an exceptional watch naturally deserved an equally exceptional movement. The 169-part mechanical hand-wound Calibre 2795 endows this model with an almost two-day power reserve. This tonneau-shaped movement perfectly tailored to the case is entirely developed and crafted within the Manufacture.
The tourbillon carriage, inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese cross emblem, provides a splendid showcase for the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of naturally hand-bevelled interior angles. Rounding off the tourbillon bar alone called for 12 hours of hand craftsmanship in order to meet the finishing criteria established by Vacheron Constantin. This technique, referred to in French as berçage, consists of filing the tips of the arms with perfect regularity so as to give them a conical and semi-cylindrical shape, while respecting the limits of the center and the heels. To finalize the operation, the artisans smooth it down using stones, buffs, wooden pegs and special pastes in order to achieve a perfectly polished effect.
The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine also meets the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève or Hallmark of Geneva. Instated by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva in 1886, the Hallmark is a guarantee of origin, craftsmanship, durability and expertise. This guarantee of quality no longer applies to the movement alone, but instead to the entire timepiece, thereby representing a major evolution for this independent certification that has enjoyed the longstanding support of Vacheron Constantin and has now opted to respond more fully than ever to the demands of an ever more well-informed clientele.
TECHNICAL DATA
Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine
Référence 30130/000P-9876
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Calibre 2795
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.37 x 29.30 mm (12 ’’’ ¼ x 12 ’’’ ¾)
6.10 mm thick
Approximately 45 hours power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
169 components
27 jewels
Indications Hours
Minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Case Platinum 950
38 mm x 48.24, 12.73 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial Platinum 950, sand-blasted
« Pt 950 » hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
Black painted indications
18K gold applied hour-markers
Strap Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp Folding triple-blade clasp in platinum
For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.
Press Release
Introducing a fresh tribute in the ongoing saga of the Métiers d’Art collection, Vacheron Constantin presents The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac —a series of captivating timepieces based on the 12-year cycle. A symbol of a lively and independent spirit, the sign of the horse will take over from the snake on February 1st 2014. To mark this occasion, the Manufacture presents two new watch creations magnificently enhanced by enameling and engraving.
Since its founding in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has excelled in the field of precious ornamental techniques and cultivates passionate ties with the artistic crafts that it has consistently promoted by nurturing the transmission of expertise from one generation to the next. This know-how provides the Geneva-based watchmaking Maison with the opportunity to highlight its fundamental values —including of course its constant quest for excellence, as well as sharing passion, passing on knowledge and openness to the world expressed through unconditional support for both native and foreign forms of artistic expression. Paper-cutting, at the crossroads of Western and Eastern cultures
China, a land with which Vacheron Constantin first began establishing a trust-based relationship from 1845 onwards, is famous for numerous discoveries including the invention of paper and also known as the initiator of the art of paper-cutting or Jianzhi. This technique appears on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list and is echoed in Scherenschnitt, the popular art of paper-cutting born in the Pays d’Enhaut region of Switzerland. Sculpted in paper according to the principles of Jianzhi, the animals of the Chinese zodiac provide a remarkable demonstration of the art of using full and empty spaces. A challenge that Vacheron Constantin has taken up and translated into the field of watchmaking thanks to the skill of its experienced artisans. Engravers and enamelers have worked alternatively on this Year of the Horse model, crafted in pink gold or platinum and limited to 12 pieces each, reserved for Vacheron Constantin Boutiques exclusively.
The leaf motif, stemming from classic Chinese iconography, is directly engraved in the gold dial. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuated reliefs creating a depth effect. The raised bamboo stalks appear to be floating over the dial. With the horse engraving, on which the details of the mane and coat measure a mere fraction of a millimeter, the artisan provides a tangible expression of the artistic vision behind this creation.
Then comes the stage of 'Grand Feu' enameling, a technique invented in Geneva and which remains the exclusive preserve of a rare breed of artisans. By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist further enhances the visual intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial. The necessity of maintaining tight control of the color and the reactions to the firing process that takes place in a kiln at around 800 to 900°C, calls for a specific way of reasoning that takes years to acquire. A final layer of enamel is then applied before a final firing operation that vitrifies the dial and lends a shiny glazed effect that gives added definition to the floral motif. The horse is delicately applied to the center of the dial, poised as if ready to gallop through the sapphire crystal and thus creating a truly striking effect.
Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection owes its superb scope for expressing the decorative arts notably to Calibre 2460 G4. In keeping with its longstanding tradition of offering a broad variety of original displays, Vacheron Constantin perpetuates the art of watchmaking by providing a hands-free display of time. It does so through four windows respectively revealing the hour, the minutes, the day and the date. The first two indications are of the dragging kind and the last two of the jumping type, and each appears through one of the four apertures arranged around the central dial motif. Beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the mechanical self-winding movement is equipped with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight adorned with a dynamic geometrical motif inspired by the shape of the Maltese Cross, the historical House emblem. All its parts are treated to exceptionally sophisticated finishing that meets the criteria laid down by the Hallmark of Geneva – one of the highest tokens of horological craftsmanship created in 1886 and recognized around the world. This requirement now applies to the entire timepiece, which is duly certified by the Hallmark of Geneva. The 2014, year of the horse model, part of the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection, is endowed with that unique touch of soul possessed by watches bearing the Hallmark of Geneva. With this exceptional collection, Vacheron Constantin intends to pursue its special ongoing dialogue with collectors and devotees of Fine Watchmaking.
For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.
TECHNICAL DATA
References 86073/000P-9752 - Platinum and 86073/000R-9751 - Pink gold
Automatic In-House Vacheron Constantin Caliber 2460 G4
Movement diameter 31.00 mm (11’’’ ¼ )
Movement thickness 6.05 mm
Number of jewels 27
Frequency 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Number of components 237
Indications Hours, minutes, day of the week and date
Power reserve Approximately 40 hours
Case Platinum 950 / 18K 5N pink gold case
40 mm diameter and 12.74 mm thick
Dial 18K gold hand-engraved, coated with “Grand Feu” blue / bronze enamelling
Hand-engraved platinum 950 / 18K 5N gold Horse
Strap Dark blue / Brown Mississippiensis alligator, large square scales, hand stiched, saddle-finish
Clasp Platinum 950 / 18k 5N pink gold folding clasp
Half Maltese cross
Limited edition of 12 pieces for each model
“2014” engraved at the back of each timepiece
Note: Only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques
November 15, 2013 — The 13th edition of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève —Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix— was held this evening at the Grand Théatre de Genève. Fourteen prizes were awarded to timepieces across different categories and a Special Jury Prize was given to Philippe Dufour. As most people in the industry were expecting, the Grand Prix "Aiguille d'Or" Watch of the Year Prize was given to the fascinating Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement L.M. The prize was received by the CEO of the Sowind Group —Girard-Perregaux and JEANRICHARD— Mr. Michele Sofisti. Congratulations!!!!
Here's a video produced by Girard-Perregaux, showing how this fascinating timepiece works so you can further understand why this watch won the Grand Prix.
The rest of the winners of this edition of the Grand Prix are the following:
Grande Complication Prize and Public Prize - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar
Men's Complications Watch Prize - Romain Gauthier Logical One
Men's Watch Prize - Voutilainen V-8R
Innovation Prize - Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon
Sports Watch Prize - Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th
Horological Revelation Prize - Ressence Type 3
Revival Prize - Tudor Heritage Black Bay
"Petite Aiguille" Prize - Habring2 Jumping Second Pilot
Jewelry Watch Prize - Chopard L'Heure du Diamant
Ladies' Complications Watch Prize - Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée
Artistic Crafts Watch Prize - Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Brodé
Ladies' Watch Prize - DeLaneau Rondo Translucent Champagne
For more info the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève click here.
Press Release
Oktopus Moon Tattoo, limited to 59 pieces worldwide is a unique state-of-the-art timepiece. “Testifying to Linde Werdelin’s commitment and skill, the latest addition to our dive series represents the most prestigious and lavish piece of our collection yet”, says visionary co-founder Jorn Werdelin.
An 18K solid rose gold case, intricately engraved with a hand drawn octopus, this masterpiece reflects the mystery and intrigue surrounding this powerful creature.
Featuring their in-house moon-phase complication, elements of the first generation Oktopus have been enriched, proving that Linde Werdelin is a company alert to the most contemporary creative offerings; continually looking to progress in terms of materials, movements and design.
Linde Werdelin’s creative mind, Morten Linde explains, ‘the marriage between modern thinking and traditional craftsmanship resonates throughout an LW timepiece. The Oktopus Moon Tattoo is the perfect balance of contemporary art, technology and innovation; transporting poetry and imagination into the world of time keeping”.
Due to the complexity of building the case, movement and dial, Linde Werdelin has challenged the ability of some of Switzerland’s finest craftsmen and succeeded in pushing the limit of what is possible, achieving such ornamental and revolutionary masterwork. Oktopus Moon Tattoo is an exclusive series of 59 pieces. The limited number signifies two moon cycles of 29.5 days each, before the moon returns to the same point on the celestial sphere. Moon phase complication is an ideal function to plan your night dives.
The engraving on the solid 18K rose gold case has been executed at different depths to create a three dimensional effect; an extremely challenging job resulting in a unique masterpiece. Linde Werdelin introduced the Oktopus series at Basel 2012 with a five-part case construction, which seals the titanium inner cylinder protecting the movement and the dial from water. Selective materials such as rose gold, ceramic and titanium have been implemented to guarantee superb anti-corrosiveness. The entire surface is subsequently treated with microbillé, followed by a gentle hand satin finish. A firm black ceramic bezel seals protects the entire case. The movement is sealed in the chamber by a titanium DLC screw in back-case featuring the iconic hand-drawn octopus. “This is the most substantial LW product launch to date”, says Morten Linde.
Oktopus Moon Tattoo takes Linde Werdelin on a further challenge since the launch of Oktopus Moon in January 2013, uniting both the in-house complication and a newly designed dial. Oktopus Moon Tattoo complication displays luminous, imaginary and hand-drawn moons-phases on its dial. Each moon is drawn and printed several times and delicately inlaid inside the pierced disk one by one. As the moon moves clockwise through its monthly cycle, more of its surface is illumined. The dial consists of multiple skeletonized layers, conveying an immediate depth to the watch. On the lower part lays the moon disk; a metallic cut out surface carrying each luminous moon.
The upper dial is skeletonized. Featuring three diamond-cut hands, it bears a beautifully engraved hand-drawn octopus in the center. All indices are deliberately luminous to enhance readability. The full moon is always indicated with a red mark visible through the lower dial. Numerals 11, 10, 9, displayed between 1 and 2 o’clock allow a more precise track of the lunar cycle.
Sticker Price CHF 42,500 ex VAT. For more info on Linde Werdelin click here.
Technical Specifications
Case:
Entirely crafted in 18K rose gold, / Hand satin finish and microbillé / Constructed with 19 components / 2.2 mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal / Screw in back case with engraved octopus drawing / screw in crown with engraved octopus symbol
Dimensions:
44mm (w) by 46mm (l) by 15mm (h)
Dial:
Multiple-layered skeletonized dial / Hands: diamond-cut hands
Movement:
In-house developed moon phase complication / Power reserve: 42 hours / Balance frequency: 28800vph, 4Hz
Water Resistance:
300m
Press Release
November 13, 2013. Geneva, Switzerland—The Breguet Museum and its President, Marc A. Hayek, have acquired three exceptional Breguet watches that made their mark on Fine Watchmaking history, for a price of nearly 1.5 million Swiss Francs. Among the purchased lots, an extremely rare, highly complicated pocket watch, the Breguet No. 4691. Bought at Christie’s and Sotheby’s auctions in Geneva on Monday November 11th and Tuesday 12th respectively, these masterpieces complete the already important collection of the House.
Sold on July 3, 1833 to the Marquis d’Abercorn, the first watch, No. 5015 went for the price of 38,000 Swiss Francs. This pocket watch is one of the very first watches ever made by any watchmaker featuring a keyless stem winding and hour setting system. Created in 1830, this invention is the ancestor of all modern winding mechanisms, consisting of a knurled winding button to be turned from left to right until a stop was reached. Spanning three Breguet generations, from founder Abraham-Louis and his contribution to the development of the keyless winding and hour setting mechanism, to his son Antoine-Louis who perfected and commercialized it, then the latter’s son Louis-Clément who sold it only 6 weeks after taking reigns of the firm, the No. 5015 is an important witness of the work and legacy of the House of Breguet.
The second antique piece, well-known as the No. 4420 is a historically important 18K gold and silver hunter case cylinder watch. With eccentric hour and minute dials, gold Breguet hands and surmounted by the advance/retard slide, it was purchased for more than 240,000 Swiss Francs. This pocket watch was bought on October 3, 1825 by King George IV of Great Britain. Like his father, King George IV was an aficionado of fine watches and clocks and one of A.L. Breguet’s earliest clients, admirers and most loyal customers. With this acquisition the House took the exceptionally scarce opportunity to acquire one of the Breguet’s “Royal” watches.
Last but not least, the third watch is an extremely rare extra-flat half-quarter repeating pocket watch. Sold on October 13, 1831 to Lord Henry Seymour Conway, the No. 4691 is one of the most complicated watches to have been made by Breguet in such a slim case. With a thickness of 7.7 mm, this Repeater watch displays equation of time, power reserve indication, calendar and moon phase based on chronometer principles. Reflecting the constant search for innovation that has characterized Breguet’s production since the 18th century, boasting an exceptionally large number of complications for a watch of this time, this prestigious timepiece was purchased for more than one million Swiss Francs.
Montres Breguet is proud to announce the arrival of these treasures at its museums. This unique event confirms Breguet President and CEO Marc A. Hayek’s commitment to preserving the Manufacture’s historic and cultural legacy.
For more info on Breguet click here.
This year, the Manufacture is pursuing its tribute to the famous navigator Christopher Columbus by introducing this heir to marine chronometers in a splendid interpretation calling upon the finest artistic crafts such as enameling, engraving and micro-painting. It thereby expresses perfect mastery of these historical skills that have been adorning Zenith creations for almost 150 years. This exceptional entirely hand-finished model issued in a 10-piece limited edition is accompanied by three major horological discoveries: a patented gravity control system; a fusée and chain transmission mechanism; and an exceptional frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour.
A pioneering spirit, a love of challenges and a thirst for exploration: the very same passion and the same quest for uncharted horizons guided Christopher Columbus and Georges Favre-Jacot —the former when he set sail across the vast expanse of ocean to open up a westward route towards the Indies; and the latter when he founded Zenith in 1865 by inventing the very first industrial watch manufacturing company or “Manufacture”. Almost a century and a half later, the brand with the guiding star is still faithful to this pursuit of precision and innovation, as is notably illustrated by over 300 patents. The Manufacture proved this determination in 1969 by creating the legendary El Primero automatic movement, which is still the world’s most accurate series-made chronograph. Moreover, fine watchmaking is not confined to the realm of mechanisms. Confirming its tradition of refined watch exteriors, notably embodied in a number of enameled pocket watches, Zenith once again delights collectors and connoisseurs of rare models by presenting the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage —a limited edition that stands out from the rest of the line by its magnificent décor. It represented a challenge not only for the artisans, but also for the watchmakers and engineers who had to rework the movement. They occasionally pushed the boundaries of feasibility in seeking to accommodate these ornamental elements within the same 45mm diameter case in rose gold and beneath the same domed sapphire crystal —while making no compromises on precision and reliability. The result is a vivid illustration of Zenith’s creative daring and of its ability to combine a dream mechanism with exceptional decorative touches stemming from the most prestigious artistic crafts.
Technical sophistication reigns supreme on the front. On the dial side, Zenith opted to give pride of place to the horological feats incorporated in the watch, while maintaining an open architecture providing a chance to admire its three original mechanisms in action: the barrel with its fusée and chain transmission —at 10.30 and 1.30—, gyroscopic gravity control system and the high-frequency regulating organ at 6 o’clock. Yet this technical, three-dimensional appearance does not preclude considerable aesthetic sophistication, as well as the use of the finest artistic crafts that Zenith is devoted to perpetuating. The three gold subdials (hours/minutes at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, power reserve at 4 o’clock) are finely guilloché, enamelled in white and fitted with blued steel hands and screws echoing the grand watchmaking traditions. The plate has been entirely hollowed out by hand so as to leave only the Zenith logo and a flurry of stars standing out in relief; and the troughs thus created have been filled with midnight blue lacquer.
The counterweight of the gravity control system has also been enhanced with a sophisticated and poetic touch by a hand-crafted micro-painted depiction of the Southern hemisphere.
The back is an open travel invitation. The back of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage springs a big surprise with a vividly colored and lively evocation of the famous navigator’s many adventures. This authentic miniature painting was created by the finest specialists in various artistic crafts using a sophisticated system of gold appliques fixed directly on the movement. In the foreground, on either side of the mechanism reminiscent of the gimbal suspension typical of marine chronometers, one may admire the finely engraved portrait of Christopher Columbus along with a sextant, the astronomical instrument serving to calculate longitude. The background bears a reproduction of the Santa Maria, the flagship with which Columbus sailed on his first voyage in 1492. The tiny manually cut-out and micro-engraved décor depicts the vessel in abundantly rich detail, particularly in terms of the ropes and rigging.
The various sails, crafted in enamel on a cloisonné base using an engraved champlevé technique, are adorned with the famous red cross – replaced on one of them by Zenith’s famous guiding star in a nod to connoisseurs. Behind the sailboat, the going-train bridge has been chosen to represent the ocean with a background engraved with tiny waves and then coated with a layer of translucent lacquer.
In the background, the barrel bridge opens up the horizon with a micro-painted décor depicting a sky divided into day and night. In a subtle detail, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have arranged the movement structure in such a way as to reveal a small gilded gear train evoking sunrise or sunset. Integrating this décor called for a wealth of ingenuity, including finding points to which the applique elements could be fixed, while reducing the movement thickness and the spaces between the calibre and the ornamentation to an absolute minimum —less than a tenth of a millimeter beneath the sails. Entirely hand-finished by artisans gifted with great dexterity, the fabulous adornment of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage makes each watch a unique work of art and a true collector’s watch.
The quest for precision at the very heart of the movement. While Christopher Columbus pushed back the frontiers of the known world, this model named after him pushes the boundaries of time measurement by combining three mechanisms guaranteeing enhanced precision: a regulating organ with a high oscillating frequency —36,000 vibrations per hour— for dividing time into tenths of a second; a fusée and chain transmission system compensating for the inevitable variations in the force of a barrel while it is unwinding; and a patented gravity control module serving to neutralize the effects of gravity on the rate of a watch. In other words, it successfully solves the problems relating to actually wearing the watch —gravity— and to the length of time it can run independently —a drop in torque—, while simultaneously ensuring remarkable precision in time measurement —linked to the oscillation speed of the balance. These feats are achieved by an exceptional movement comprising 939 parts, including 354 for the calibre itself that in turn houses the 173 elements of the gravity control module; while the fusée and chain system comprises 585 parts. Fusée and chain transmission ensuring constant force. As a mechanical watch gradually winds down, the movement loses amplitude —corresponding to the balance-wheel’s angle of oscillation— and thus becomes less accurate. The fusée and chain transmission system serves on the contrary to keep the driving force perfectly stable throughout the full power reserve – with the helicoidal shape of the fusée compensating for the progress reduction in the force of the barrel. The majority of 16th, 17th and 18th century pocket watches were equipped with a fusée, but today very few watch manufacturers are capable of transposing and fitting this mechanism within the confines of a wristwatch. With the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage, stemming from two full years of development, Zenith has now entered this highly exclusive club. Transmission between the barrel and fusée is handled by an 18cm long chain comprising 585 parts. This highly complex construction features alternating double and intermediate links. Once assembled, it is capable of withstanding a traction force of more than 3 kilos.
Throughout the power reserve, the mainspring transmits its energy to the fusée via a chain that wraps itself around the barrel. By adjusting the variations in tension, the fusée regulates the force that is passed on to the going train – and thence to the silicon escape-wheel fitted inside the gyroscopic carriage. While it takes more than 50 hours —the power-reserve duration— for the chain to wrap itself around the barrel, winding via the stem provides a fascinating sight. These few seconds enable the fusée and the barrel to turn in opposite directions so that the chain wraps itself back around the fusée. The shape of the fusée was dictated by the optimal force that the Zenith master-watchmakers wished to give the barrel. Its grooved conical contours as well as its dimensions are the result of lengthy and particularly complex complications performed for each of the seven construction stages. This fusée could doubtless never have been created without the full integration of all professions —notably including movement prototype making— cultivated in the Manufacture Zenith, nor without the use of sophisticated equipment. Such is indeed one of the core strengths of an integrated Manufacture. While fusée and chain transmission eliminates variations in isochronism —the equal duration of the oscillations—, the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage also cancels out another effect that is detrimental to the rate of a mechanical watch: the influence of gravity. Working on the principle that keeping the regulating organ in a horizontal position engenders the best possible balance-wheel amplitude and thus results in optimal timekeeping precision, Zenith devised and patented a revolutionary module enabling the “heart” of the movement and the escapement to remain constantly in this position. An avant-garde system brilliantly illustrating the creative daring of the Manufacture, the gravity control system is also a tribute to history, since it is inspired by the marine chronometers that Zenith used to produce, borrowing from these legendary instruments the principle of gimbal suspension introduced in the 16th century on marine compasses so that they would stay horizontal despite the pitching and rolling of the boat.
The gravity control system with its self-regulating gyroscopic mechanism serves to maintain the regulating organ in a permanently horizontal position whatever the angle of the wrist and thereby represents the ultimate evolution of the marine chronometer. The brand with the guiding star is the only watch manufacturer to master this system —duly rewarded in the “Best Complicated Watch” category at the 2011 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix— that it invented after five years of intense development.
Such an exceptional model deserved to be presented to its best advantage. The Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage comes in a precious mahogany box featuring ox bone inlays and that can also serve as a humidor with a capacity of 80 cigars. In homage to Christopher Columbus, this box is adorned with a screen-printed motif on parchment-style papyrus reproducing Waldseemüller’s planisphere (1507), the first world map to mention the name “America”.
A magnificent ocean voyage and a splendid voyage to the heart of the infinitely small: with this limited edition combining fine watchmaking and artistic crafts, Zenith is setting out to conquer fascinating new horizons, inspired as ever by a blend of daring, authenticity and pleasure.
For more info on Zenith click here.
Technical Data
El Primero 8805, hand-wound. A unique gyroscopic mechanism that maintains the regulating organ in a perfectly horizontal position.
Calibre: 16 ½’’’ (diameter: 37 mm)
Thickness: 5.85 mm
Parts: 354
Gyroscopic carriage composed of 173 parts
Chain made of 585 parts
Jewels: 53
Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)
Over 50-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS
Off-centered hours and minutes at 12 o’clock
“Gravity Control” self-regulating module at 6 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Power-reserve indication at 3 o’clock
Fusée and chain transmission beneath the hours/minutes dial
Case, dial and hands
18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 14.80 mm/21.80 mm
(with domed sapphire crystal)
Cambered sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides, domes protecting the Christophe Colomb module
Water resistance 3 ATM
Dial: 3 enameled gold dials
Hour-markers: black lacquered
Hands: blued steel
Reference 18.2211.8805/36.C713 —Brown alligator leather strap with rose gold triple folding clasp.
With over $30 Million USD —inclusive of buyer's premium— sold in watches, the Important Watches Auction held by Christie's in Geneva on November 11, 2013 was a record breaking and extremely successful auction where most timepieces were sold exceeding their estimates —even Longines watches fetched extremely high amounts. The Important Watches Auction featured 406 lots —not all sold— with 122 Patek Philippe timepieces, 107 Rolex discontinued and modern references, several modern and vintage Panerais, a unique A. Lange & Söhne in stainless steel, Audemars Piguet assorted timepieces, Breguet museum quality watches and a Dürrstein & Co. Glashütte Uhrenfabrik Union Pocket Watch amongst others.
Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, mentioned: “On November 10th and 11th, Christie's dispersed over 370 fine watches in an historical ten-hour auction marathon, which set a new record total for any series of watch sales. In the past months, we exhibited highlights in Taiwan, Japan, Hong Kong, New York, Paris, Dubai and in all locations we noticed an ever-growing appetite for high quality collector’s watches. This trend was demonstrated by a fiercer-than-ever competition generated by both experienced and new international bidders, in the room, on the telephone and online."
Now, for your viewing and reading pleasure, here are twenty amazing timepieces —not Patek Philippe— that are just exceptional and worth talking in-depth about. All hammer prices are in USD and are inclusive of the buyer's premium. All images from Christie's.com
1. Rolex "Padellone" 18K Gold Triple Calendar with Moon Phase ref. 8171 from 1962. This watch was produced in a very limited number between 1949 and 1952. With an incredibly sharp case and sharp engravings, this watch is a "safe queen" with only two owners —Father and Son— before the auction. Hammer Price $684,626.
2. Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 "Explorer" dial from 1954. The ref. 6200 is considered by most the real first Submariner. This watch not only features an amazing "Explorer" dial that includes the "Officially Certified Chronometer" writing —perhaps the only known example of this configuration— but it also features the original hands. Hammer Price $527,891.
3. Rolex 18K Gold Triple Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 6062 from 1952. This reference features a full calendar on top of the chronograph automatic movement. This watch was produced just for a few years in the 50s and is considered by most collectors as the most important Oyster model ever made by Rolex. Not only this watch comes with a perfectly preserved dial but the watch was also featured in John Goldberger's 100 Superlative Rolex Watches book. Hammer Price $501,769.
4. A. Lange & Söhne Stainless Steel Double Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph with Power Reserve ref. 404.035X from 2006. This is known to be the only piece ever made of this model in Stainless Steel and included box and papers. It seems like in 2007 A. Lange & Söhne created this one single prototype featuring a stainless steel case. Hammer Price $501,769.
5. Dürrstein & Co. Glashütte Uhrenfabrik Union 18K Pink Gold Ultra Complicated Pocket Watch. This watch is fitted with an Audemars Piguet movement, openface, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split seconds chronograph, moon phases, instantaneous minute recorder, flying fifths of a second and grande and petite sonerie. Audemars Piguet was known to supply complicated ébauches to other companies during the period the watch was made. This watch took two years to make from 1891 to 1893 and finished right on time for its presentation at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition here in Chicago —the watch comes with the entrance ticket to the fair— where it sold for 5,000 Marks, price of a Villa in Dresden at the time. Hammer Price $475,646.
6. Rolex Stainless Steel Triple Calendar Chronograph ref. 6236 from 1958. This watch also known as the "Dato-Compax" or "Killy" included the original guarantee papers and is fitted with a two-tone silvered dial. The watch was nicknamed "Killy" as French Olympic skiing legend Jean-Claude Killy sported one of this watches. The three other "Dato-Compax" watches in the series are references 4767, 5036 and 6036. Produced between 1958 and 1962, this is a rare example with a dial in very good condition with open 6s and 9s. Hammer Price $397,279.
7. Rolex Stainless Steel Triple Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 6062 from 1953. This is a very rare example as stainless steel models of this reference are quite scarce and this one is in remarkable condition with sharp and crisp serial number and reference engravings between the lugs and a very well preserved original dial. Hammer Price $371,156.
8. Panerai Stainless Steel ref. 3646 "California" dial from 1940. This particular watch is one of the few examples left from the collaboration between Rolex and Panerai. Panerai Radiomir watches like this ref. 3646 were made by Rolex for Panerai and the so-called black lacquered "California" —half Arabic and half Roman numerals— dials were fitted on them. Some of these earlier Radiomir watches do not bear any Rolex markings or hallmarks. It is known, that approximately thirty of these watches ref. 3646 were intended to be presented to high ranking Navy officials during a ceremony. However, the delivery never took place and the watches were forgotten in a warehouse. Rediscovered decades later, these watches that had remained in unused condition are living testament of that era. Hammer Price $358,095.
9. Rolex Milgauss ref. 6541 with "Honeycomb" dial from 1958. This watch with 'open' papers features the sought-after honeycomb dial, consisting of two cross aluminum layers to protect it even further against magnetic fields. This example in excellent condition, still shows the traditional Rolex chamfers on the lugs. Hammer Price $345,034.
10. Breguet No. 4420 'Montre Simple Plate à Deux Cadrans Excentriques d'Heures et Minutes' 18K Gold and Silver Hunter Case Pocket Watch. This watch was originally sold to His Majesty King George IV of Great Britain on October 3, 1825 for 2,900 Francs. The watch comes with its original red Morocco box no. 4420. According to Christie's "it is unknown when King George IV parted with his watch but it can safely be assumed that he presented it to a member of the Scottish noble family Douglas-Hamilton, most likely to his close acquaintance Alexander Douglas-Hamilton, 10th Duke of Hamilton (1767-1852), a Scottish politician, art collector and well-known dandy. According to entries in Breguet's books, watch no. 4420 was returned for a complete overhaul in 1850 by the Marquis de Douglas, furthermore mentioning "sold in 1825, never returned". In 1851, the crystal was replaced, also by order of the Marquis de Douglas. The watch was then returned to Breguet for a complete overhaul in 1860 by the Dutch de Hamilton and for a servicing in 1863 by the Duchess de Hamilton. After its servicing at Breguet in 1863, the tracks of watch no. 4420 vanish until around 1920-1921 when it reappears in the family of the celebrated inventor, scientist and watch collector Sir David Lionel Salomons (1851-1925)". Hammer Price $318,912.
11. Panerai Marina Militare ref. 6152/1 made by Rolex in 1955. This watch ref. 6152/1 was exclusively supplied to the Italian navy with or without crown guard with locking lever and with a rounded case band opposed to the case band on the ref. 6152 that features a sharp angle on the center of it. This watch features a simple Rolex crown without crown guard, Rolex movement, 'sandwich' dial and Rolex markings on the case. Following the production of ref. 3646, Panerai requested an improved model without wire lugs and increased water-resistance, the result was ref. 6152 and ref. 6152/1 widely known as the "Luminor" —tritium luminescent material that replaced the Radiomir mix used. Early examples of ref. 6152 still feature the "Radiomir Panerai" signed dials but the majority of these watches feature cases and movements made by Rolex. Most watches supplied to the Italian Naval Forces were requested to bear the designation "Marina Militare" on the dial. Hammer Price $266,667
12. Rolex 18K Gold GMT Master ref. 6542 with Bakelite bezel, Dauphine hands and Champagne dial from 1959. This fascinating watch all original, barely polished and with box and unsigned papers is as good as any vintage full-set gets. The untouched and unmolested champagne dial features the 'ghost' gold imprinting that is so subtle that it is only visible when holding the watch at certain angle or upon close inspection. The bakelite bezel in excellent condition and the hands with very little corrosion. Hammer Price $266,667.
13. Bovet 18K Gold, Enamel and Pearl-set Openface Duplex Pocket Watch from 1820. This watch especially made for the Chinese market, combines Bovet's Chinese calibre movement and a finely painted enamel miniature case by enamelist Jean-François-Victor Dupont. During the turmoil of the late Manchu China, Bovet watches became increasingly popular there. Fleurier —Edouard Bovet's hometown— is the European centre for the manufacture of Chinese watches, with several brands dedicated only to that market. This watch features cloisonné, champlevé enamel and pearl-set borders. Hammer Price $266,667.
14. Rolex 'Patent Pending' Double Red Sea-Dweller ref. 1665 with Prototype Bracelet and Mark I Dial from 1969. The ref. 1665 is a very sought-after watch and it's known that maybe about 150 of this watches were ever made. Since its helium valve had been developed and the patent had been applied, but Rolex had not received final approval the case back features the engraving in parenthesis “Patent Pending". This fantastic reference was only produced between 1969 and 1977. While most Mark I dials on this reference show that the Double Red writing has faded to a light pink or even white color, the dial on this watch is still as red as when it left Rolex. Additionally, this perfect example contains the last three digits of the serial number inside the case back along with the reference number as it should be. Lastly, this rare piece features a prototype bracelet with the Rolex crown located sideways on the clasp. Hammer Price $247,075.
15. Rolex 18K Gold GMT Master ref. 6542 with Bakelite bezel and burgundy brown nipple "Exclamation" Dial with Dauphine hands from 1958. This amazing example with very little polishing features the very desirable and ultra-rare burgundy brown so-called "exclamation" dial with gold printing. For those of you that don't know, the name comes from the luminous dot positioned right underneath the 6 o'clock hour marker making it look like an 'exclamation' symbol. After the US Atomic Energy commission asked Rolex to recall the first batch of the 6542s due to their supposed radiation risk, the dials were marked with a small dot below the six o'clock marker to note that the issue had been corrected. From the second batch on, the watches were either fitted with a dash or with the now well-known 'Swiss T<25' writing that indicated that tritium had been used but that the small amount of it presented no risk to the wearer. Hammer Price $214,422.
16. Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 "Square Crown Guards" Retailed and Marked by Serpico & Laino from 1959. This reference was introduced in 1959 featuring crown guards with square ends. It is known that very few of these watches were ever made with this type of crown guards and the serial numbers are in the low 478,000s. This watch fitted with a very well preserved gilt dial comes with the depth rating in silver and the retailer signature 'Serpico y Laino' —from Caracas, Venezuela— above said rating. The case back features a Serpico y Laino engraving as 'S&L ACERO'. The bezel insert features the red triangle at 12 o'clock common only in the Big Crown Submariners ref. 6538. It is very possible that this is the only example of a watch featuring these characteristics. Hammer Price $207,891.
17. Rolex GMT Master ref. 6542 with Tropical dial, Bakelite bezel, Red Font Calendar disc and no bracelet from 1958. This amazing example comes with a bakelite bezel in very good condition, a highly "tropical" dial with matching hands, a fascinating red font calendar disc but unfortunately no bracelet —the strap does match perfectly the color of the dial. Hammer Price $188,299.
18. Panerai ref. 3646 made by Rolex in 1943. This watch is another one of those Panerai timepieces commissioned to Rolex for its manufacturing. This is one of the so-called "no name" series with blank dial, generally reserved for the German Navy's Special Forces. The watch features a sandwich dial and a smaller than usual crown. Hammer Price $108,844.
19. Rolex Submariner ref. 6204 from 1963 . This watch features pencil hands and seconds lollipop hand, there is no depth rating on the dial and it features the bezel with no graduation on the first 15 minutes. Hammer Price $72,109.
20. Longines Stainless Steel Monopusher Flyback Chronograph ref. 5681 from 1950. According to the Archives of Longines this watch has originally sold in Amsterdam, Holland on September 8, 1950. A watch originally designed for military purpose with a chronograph that can be start/stop/reset with just one button. It was surprising to see a Longines fetch such a high amount on money at the auction. Hammer Price $50,340.
In addition to all the fascinating timepieces we featured on this post, there were many more that commanded high amounts and that are true collector's examples of some fascinating references across an array of brands.
As you can imagine, we are already looking forward to the upcoming Christie's auctions in Hong Kong —Important Watches Auction on November 27—, London —Jewelry and Watches Auction on December 11— and New York —Important Watches Auction to be held on December 17, 2013.
For more info on Christie's click here.
The Christie's Important Watches Auction held in Geneva today Monday November 11, 2013 included a total of 122 amazing Patek Philippe timepieces of which only ten didn't sell. The total dollar amount fetched by all watches sold at the auction exceeded $30 million, of which Patek Philippe made more than half of it.
For this in-depth review of what happened at the auction around the Patek Philippe timepieces, we have picked the twenty Patek Philippe watches that fetched the highest amounts —all of them above a quarter of a million dollars each— and which all combined, sum up a total amount of $12,020,680 USD. All hammer prices are in USD and are inclusive of the buyer's premium. All images from Christie's.com
1. The star of the auction and the watch that fetched the highest amount was the Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 2499 manufactured in 1951 and encased in 1957. According to the Patek Philippe archives, the watch was originally sold on December 15, 1960. This reference is one of the most legendary Patek references and features raised hard enamel printings of all elements on the dial. Hammer Price $2,160,544.
2. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1563 with Luminous Breguet numerals, rounded pushers and screw case back from 1947 that was originally sold on June 30, 1950. Few complicated Patek Philippe references are as rare as this reference of which only three examples are known to exist. Hammer Price $1,572,789.
3. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 2499 with Cartier on the dial —probably a unique piece— from 1966 originally sold on April 29, 1968. The watch was sold with Cartier's certificate of authenticity stating that the watch was delivered to Cartier New York in 1968. Hammer Price $1,024,218.
4. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 1518 with an ultra rare two-tone dial —possibly a unique piece dial— from 1950 and originally sold on December 16, 1952. What makes this watch even more desirable is the two-tone silvered dial fitted on this watch, that has never been seen before on any other ref. 1518. The two-tone dial provides a unique visual effect depending on the lighting conditions and the angle at which the light hits the dial. Hammer Price $1,024,218.
5. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 3448 Blue dial —probably a unique piece— with raised gold markers from 1978. The watch originally sold on November 10, 1978. The uniqueness of this watch —besides the beautiful color of its dial— comes from the fact that it is known that only four watches ref. 3448 were fitted with color dials —other than the traditional silvered— and while three feature champagne dials, it appears like this is the only one with a blue dial. Hammer Price $684,626.
6. Patek Philippe 18K Rose Gold Chronograph ref. 530 sold by Astrua Torino in 1941. The ref. 530 was launched in 1937 and it is one of the rarest Patek chronographs, furthermore, the Astrua ref. 530 is one of the most impressive oversized chronographs by this manufacture and it is known that this is the only ref. 530 featuring the Astrua marking on the dial. Additionally, this is the first time that it's been offered at auction and the case and dial are as sharp and original as it gets. Even the lugs still display the original satin finish pointing towards the strap. Hammer Price $658,503.
7. Patek Philippe Calatrava 18K Pink Gold Dual Time Zone ref. 2597 with independent adjustable second time zone hand manufactured in 1963 but originally sold until January 8, 1981. This particular reference is one of the rarest Pateks ever and it was such unpopular that it was discontinued quite quickly. Interestingly enough, this watch —among other four of this same reference in pink gold— is living testament of that unpopularity as it sat unsold for 18 years after its production. This watch is also the only example to feature luminescent material on its hands. This watch was auctioned in mint unworn and unpolished condition. Hammer Price $501,769.
8. Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Chronograph ref. 1463 with Breguet numerals and rounded pushers manufactured in 1945 and originally sold on July 29, 1946. The Breguet numerals on this watch are ultra rare —less than twenty examples in stainless steel known to exist up to date. Described by Italian collectors as the "tasti tondi" for its rounded pushers, this watch was also featured in the book Patek Philippe Steel Watches by John Goldberger, pp. 286 - 287. Hammer Price $501,769.
9. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 with pink dial from 1940 and originally sold on April 13, 1942. This pink gold reference is one of the rarest Pateks sold at auction and less than ten examples have sold at auction in the last 30 years —only four were fitted with pink dials. Additionally, the watch is a only two-owner watch. Hammer Price $423,401.
10. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Minute Repeater ref. 2524/1 manufactured in 1954 and sold on August 11, 1960. This watch is one of four examples that does not have a seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock and its repeater lever mechanism is activated by pushing it downwards. Hammer Price $397,279.
11. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 2497 with box and papers manufactured in 1953 and originally sold on September 8, 1956. This rare example features a sweep center seconds hand which is very uncommon for this Patek reference. Hammer Price $384,218.
12. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 1526 with pink dial manufactured in 1948 and originally sold on October 18, 1949. It is known that of this very rare reference in 18K pink gold only a little bit over 200 watches were ever made by Patek and even fewer feature a pink dial like this one. Furthermore, this watch remains in unpolished condition. Hammer Price $345,034.
13. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 with two-tone silvered sector dial manufactured in 1950 and subsequently originally sold on November 1, 1952. The Split Seconds Chronograph is a very rare Patek and this particular watch features a sector/aviator dial that was added after its original purchase to enhance its look even more —completely stunning in our opinion. Hammer Price $331,973.
14. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 2438/1 with box and service papers from 1954 and originally sold on June 23, 1958. This watch just like the ref. 1436 that sold for $428,406 is also a only two-owner watch. This reference is fitted with a screw case back to make it water-resistant. Hammer Price $305,850.
15. Patek Philippe Stainless Steel and 18K Pink Gold Chronograph ref. 130 with two-tone pink dial from 1947. The watch was originally sold on June 25, 1948 and its reference marks the first chronograph to be fitted with calibre 13 and in production from 1936 until 1964. This two-tone model is known to be quite rare and up to date there are only other seven pieces to be known to exist. Hammer Price $305,850.
16. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 manufactured and sold in 1946. This watch was auctioned with an additional silvered dial that the previous owner had purchased to give the watch a more current look. Hammer Price $292,789.
17. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Minute Repeater ref. 3979 with white porcelain white dial with box and papers. The watch was originally sold on March 30, 1992. This reference was launched in 1989 to commemorate Patek Philippe's 150th anniversary, discontinued only nine years later and replaced by ref. 5078. Hammer Price $292,789.
18. Patek Philippe Platinum Flared Sides ref. 2442 with diamond-set dial manufactured in 1949 and originally sold on February 11, 1950. This watch is powered by a rare rectangular movement with only 150 watches ever made of which only three examples of the platinum model are known to exist. Hammer Price $292,789.
19. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Openface Keyless Lever Tourbillon Pocket Watch with Breguet numerals and Bulletin d'Observatoire manufactured in 1930, encased in 1951 and originally sold on December 21, 1951. This watch comes with a certificate from the Geneva Observatory attesting that the pocket watch participated in a timing contest in 1946 obtaining the third prize. for Hammer Price $266,667.
20. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Openface Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 658 Keyless Lever Pocket Watch with Moon Phases and box manufactured in 1931, encased in 1955 and originally sold on July 18, 1955. This watch is known to be one of only five examples of this reference. Hammer Price $253,605.
As expected from such an array of exceptional timepieces, the prices went up through the roof. Congratulations to all the collectors that added this amazing creations to their vaults.
For more info on Christie's click here and for Patek Philippe here.
Today, November 10, 2013 Surpassing all expectations, the Rolex Daytona "Lesson One" Auction —a prestigious single-themed evening auction featuring 50 exceptional examples of the world's most celebrated chronograph wristwatch, totaled CHF 12,032,850 —$13,248,167 USD— selling 100% by lot and by value, at Christie's Geneva.
The watch that fetched the highest amount was an all original Rolex Cosmograph Oyster Paul Newman ref. 6263/6239 Case No. 2,197,870 manufactured in 1969 with box and papers selling for $1,089,186 USD. This amount —inclusive of the buyer's premium— as well as the price for any other Rolex Daytona sold at this auction, breaks all previous records set on any auctions of this reference up to date.
Created by Aurel Bacs to mark the 50th anniversary of Rolex's most iconic model, this unique sale presented only the best and most mythical Daytona wristwatches ever produced. Aurel Bacs, who is the International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented: “Christie's first ever evening auction dedicated to wristwatches proved an unprecedented success. With four hundred people in the saleroom and plenty more queuing outside, I rarely experienced a similar rock concert atmosphere from the rostrum. Possibly the most rigorously curated watch auction ever staged, each lot was selected by Christie's watch department in partnership with Mr. Pucci Papaleo according to a disciplined approach to originality, condition and provenance. Setting 50 world records for 50 watches as well as achieving an absolute record price for any Rolex Daytona ever sold at auction, Rolex Daytona "Lesson One" will be remembered as an historical event”.
Along with this amazing ref. 6263/6239 Paul Newman from 1969, other fascinating Daytonas fetched serious money above the $150,000 USD range all of them exceeding their estimates. In second place comes an extremely rare Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 from 1974 especially made for Sultan Qaboos Bin Said Al Said with box —sold by Asprey to Oman— selling for $864,521 USD —inclusive of the buyer's premium.
In third place, an extremely rare Rolex Daytona with pulsations dial from 1967 ref. 6239 sold at $838,090 USD —inclusive of the buyer's premium.
Below you will find six other Daytonas that fetched the highest amounts above the $400,000 USD range. The estimates on all these watches were exceeded, fetching amounts two to three times higher than those estimates.
For more info on Christie's click here.
Press Release
Horological Machine No.5 is back 'On the Road Again', with a new 'RT' limited edition in red gold. After the original HM5 in zirconium presented in 2012, most would wonder why is the manufacture crafting another 66 pieces in red gold? Well, gold is highly resistant to corrosion; it conducts heat or electricity and reflects infrared radiation. Gold is highly malleable: a single gram can be beaten into a sheet of 1 micron. Gold is precious: all the gold ever mined in human history would fit in a cube of just 21 meters on each side. But let's get to the point: the real reason why MB&F is crafting this edition in red gold is because they think it looks damn beautiful!
HM5 RT is full of surprises: Hour and minute displays look straightforward, but they are bi-directional jumping hours with indications inverted, reflected 90° and magnified 20%. HM5 RT has a futuristic case design, but it’s from the 1970s. HM5 RT has a mechanical movement, but inspired by an era when quartz was King. The rear louvers on super cars block light, but on HM5 RT they let light in. Befitting its automotive heritage, HM5 RT has exhaust pipes, but they drain water. The gold endowing the HM5 RT case with such a rich lustrous glow was found on earth, but was actually created billions of years ago in deep space.
While we might still be waiting for flying cars, with the HM5 RT you can put a high-tech golden super car on your wrist! As with any super car, the best often lies under the hood and ‘lifting the hood’ of the HM5 RT case reveals a surprise: an inner case! Like a Russian Matryoshka doll, peeling away one layer reveals a second case in titanium. The reason for housing the Engine in an inner container is for water resistance. Those super car louvers let in water as well as light —the reason for those dual exhaust ports— so to protect the high-performance Engine from moisture as well as shocks, it is housed in its own titanium shell. This inner case is similar to the rigid chassis of a car on which the external coachwork/body is attached. Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Boucard and the team at Chronode developed the HM5 Engine. It may appear simple, but it’s complicated! Jumping hours are bi-directional, enabling the time to be easily set both forwards and backwards. The two mineral glass disks of the hours and minutes are supported by a flat wide bridge. The disks overlap to maximize their diameter and space for large legible numerals. Turning HM5 RT over reveals the Engine, with its 22k gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ winding rotor, fast oscillating balance and stunning hand-finished bridges, through a sapphire crystal display back that is set into the water resistant container.
Horological Machine No. 5 RT retains all the key features of the HM5: a hand-finished automatic movement with bi-directional jumping hours; a vertical time display reflected and magnified by a sapphire crystal optical prism; 'light convector' flaps which allow to charge the superluminova hour and minute discs and to compensate for the higher weight of the external red gold case, they've modified the inner protective compartment from stainless steel to titanium. While HM5 RT has a generously sized 51.5mm x 49mm case and gold is known for its weight as much as its beauty, thanks to the discrete use of ultra-light titanium, HM5 RT is a very comfortable machine to wear.
Technical Specifications
ENGINE
Three-dimensional horological engine developed by Jean-François Mojon and Vincent Boucard of Chronode. Powered by a Sowind gear train. Battle-axe 22k gold ‘mystery ’ automatic winding rotor.
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800bph/4Hz
Number of components: 224
Number of jewels: 30
Engine housed in a water resistant, titanium inner container
FUNCTIONS / INDICATIONS
Minutes and bi-directional jumping hours displayed by reflective sapphire crystal prism with integrated magnifying lens. Slide to open/close louvers on case top.
CASE
18K Red gold and titanium with internal water resistant titanium engine container. Slide button to open/close louvers. Exhaust ports to drain water.
Dimensions: 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm
Number of components: 80
Water resistance of engine container: 30 meters
SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS
Smoked optical grade sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and 20% magnification. Sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
STRAP & BUCKLE
Sculptured rubber strap, titanium tang buckle.
Sticker Price $82,000 USD. For more info on MB&F click here.
Armin Strom Gravity is the first watch from the Biel-based Manufacture to feature an automatic winding mechanism with a micro-rotor. With this first series of automatic watches driven by the Manufacture’s new AMR13 calibre, Armin Strom wanted to express the essence of a fundamental law of physics —that of gravity. Thus, the laws of gravity are used in an automatic watch to transform movements into a mode of indicating the time. However, the Armin Strom Gravity does not simply provide a glimpse of how this transformation works, rather, the dial is designed to proudly display the micro-rotor, which captures the power of the movements and transforms them into energy. The visibility of this mechanism is made possible thanks to an innovative concept of transmission for the rotor, which remains smaller in size than the diameter of the going barrel.
The Armin Strom Gravity collection is available in four colors that represent the four elements: Fire, Earth, Water and Air. The Armin Strom Gravity boasts the same exceptional level of finishing that has contributed to the reputation of the brand and of its eponymous founder. This is a timepiece that will appeal to connoisseurs of fine watchmaking wishing to celebrate the movement in all its forms.
Technical Specifications of the Armin Strom ref. RG13-GF.90 Gravity Fire
Manufacture movement
Armin Strom Calibre AMR13: Automatic, 5-day power reserve, small seconds and off-centered time indications
Frequency: 18,000 A/h
Jewels: 32
Number of components: 171
Case
18K Rose gold
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 43.40 mm
Total height: 13.00 mm
Water-resistance: 50 m
Dial ring
Black with founded appliques
Hands
Mirror polished
Straps
Delivered with a genuine brown alligator horn-back strap and 18K rose gold ardillon buckle as well as an additional brown rubber strap. A double-fold clasp in 18K rose gold is available on option.
Edition
Limited to 100 pieces
For more info on Armin Strom click here.
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