After we reviewed the white gold model, we are now bringing you the review of the tone-on-tone pink gold dial 18K 5N pink gold iteration ref. 4300V/220R-H144 of the new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Cased in a 41.5 mm 18K pink gold case with a stunning tone-on-tone pink gold dial, the more muted, traditional-looking dial is perfect for collectors with a classic taste seeking a timeless watch that won’t ever go out of style.
Even though we don’t think the white gold version with its burgundy-lacquered dial will ever go out of style, we feel that that particular reference is more in line with current trends in the watch industry toward bright-colored dials than the very classic look of a tone-on-tone dial.
A Timeless Classic: Tone-on-Tone Pink Gold Dial
Undoubtedly, a more muted approach with its pink-gold dial, but it is also a chameleon that varies in hue with lighting conditions, just like its burgundy-lacquered dial sibling. Under direct light, it reveals a warm, sunburst richness with subtle tone variations across the surface; however, in low light, the dial appears flatter and more beige. The dial shifts from a deeper rose gold in shadow to a lighter, more luminous champagne-pink in bright conditions, and it's then that the dial comes alive. Against the warm pink gold case, this creates a harmonious monochromatic effect that's sophisticated and understated—a difficult balance to strike.
The dial layout itself is remarkably legible for a perpetual calendar. The applied pink gold indices, the snailed subdials, and the light blue accents for the minute track and the months within the leap-year indication work remarkably well against the tonal pink gold background. Everything remains readable at a glance, which isn't always the case with tone-on-tone dials or perpetual calendars. And here to make things even better, the moon phase indication with its highly polished finish works remarkably well, adding that bright, captivating touch at 6 o'clock.
The Interchangeable Strap System: Pure Versatility
The integrated 18K pink gold bracelet is a masterpiece. Each half-Maltese cross link flows seamlessly into the next. The bracelet tapers beautifully, and its double-folding deployant clasp is as comfy as it gets. But the real party trick is the interchangeable strap system. Without any tools, you can swap the bracelet for either of the two included rubber straps: one in navy blue—perfectly complementing the warm pink gold tones—and another in white.
Changing straps or the bracelet takes about 30 seconds once you get the hang of it. The brown rubber strap transforms the watch from a more formal look to a casual-elegant, perfect for weekend wear. Meanwhile, the white rubber strap creates an unexpected sporty vibe that works brilliantly for a Miami trip or even the beach—50-meter water resistance—, offering a fresh contrast to the warm pink gold, despite its rubbery nature. At the bottom, you will find three different wrist shots showcasing the bracelet and the two rubber options.
The Movement: Thin is Better
Turning the watch over reveals the intricacies of the 36-jewel automatic movement through the sapphire display case back. You can admire the in-house Calibre 1120 QP/1 in all its finished glory. At only 4.05mm thick—yielding an 8.1 total thickness of the watch case—, this movement is a technical tour de force. The 22K oscillating weight features Vacheron Constantin's compass rose motif, which not only looks elegant but also provides smooth, quiet winding.
The 40-hour power reserve is very adequate for daily wear. However, weekend warriors who decide to leave the watch off during the weekend—who in their right mind would do that anyway—will need to reset the perpetual calendar when putting it back on the wrist on a Monday—unless you conveniently leave the watch on a watch winder, Rapport London would be our brand of choice.
The finishing of the movement is in line with what you'd expect from the oldest watch manufacture in the world, which just turned 270 years old. The Côtes de Genève decoration, straight-graining, and meticulous chamfering transform what could be purely functional components into miniature works of art.
On the Wrist & Price
On the wrist, the watch's technical specs tell part of the story—41.5 mm diameter, 8.1 mm thick—but they don't capture how well this watch actually wears. At 8.1 mm thick, this is genuinely svelte for any watch, let alone one that houses a perpetual calendar. For context, many time-only dress watches are much thicker. The result is a watch that slides effortlessly under a shirt cuff and sits flat against the wrist without the top-heavy feel that plagues many complicated watches or solid gold timepieces.
The 41.5 mm case diameter hits the sweet spot for modern proportions. The integrated bracelet design means there are no protruding lugs, so the watch wears slightly smaller than the dimensions suggest. On a 7.5-inch wrist, it felt perfectly proportioned—substantial enough to have presence, but not so large as to feel ostentatious.
The warm pink gold case and dial combination creates a subtle, luxurious aesthetic that catches the light beautifully throughout the day. The tone-on-tone execution feels both modern and timeless, offering a refined alternative to more contrasting dial-and-case combinations. The monochromatic look of the watch makes it ideally suited for all types of outfits without clashing.
Sticker Price USD 120,000. For more info on Vacheron Constantin, click here.
