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News: Zenith Unveils the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage. Entirely Hand-Finished in a 10-Piece Limited Edition.

This year, the Manufacture is pursuing its tribute to the famous navigator Christopher Columbus by introducing this heir to marine chronometers in a splendid interpretation calling upon the finest artistic crafts such as enameling, engraving and micro-painting. It thereby expresses perfect mastery of these historical skills that have been adorning Zenith creations for almost 150 years. This exceptional entirely hand-finished model issued in a 10-piece limited edition is accompanied by three major horological discoveries: a patented gravity control system; a fusée and chain transmission mechanism; and an exceptional frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour.  

A pioneering spirit, a love of challenges and a thirst for exploration: the very same passion and the same quest for uncharted horizons guided Christopher Columbus and Georges Favre-Jacot —the former when he set sail across the vast expanse of ocean to open up a westward route towards the Indies; and the latter when he founded Zenith in 1865 by inventing the very first industrial watch manufacturing company or “Manufacture”. Almost a century and a half later, the brand with the guiding star is still faithful to this pursuit of precision and innovation, as is notably illustrated by over 300 patents. The Manufacture proved this determination in 1969 by creating the legendary El Primero automatic movement, which is still the world’s most accurate series-made chronograph. Moreover, fine watchmaking is not confined to the realm of mechanisms. Confirming its tradition of refined watch exteriors, notably embodied in a number of enameled pocket watches, Zenith once again delights collectors and connoisseurs of rare models by presenting the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage —a limited edition that stands out from the rest of the line by its magnificent décor. It represented a challenge not only for the artisans, but also for the watchmakers and engineers who had to rework the movement. They occasionally pushed the boundaries of feasibility in seeking to accommodate these ornamental elements within the same 45mm diameter case in rose gold and beneath the same domed sapphire crystal —while making no compromises on precision and reliability. The result is a vivid illustration of Zenith’s creative daring and of its ability to combine a dream mechanism with exceptional decorative touches stemming from the most prestigious artistic crafts.

Technical sophistication reigns supreme on the front. On the dial side, Zenith opted to give pride of place to the horological feats incorporated in the watch, while maintaining an open architecture providing a chance to admire its three original mechanisms in action: the barrel with its fusée and chain transmission —at 10.30 and 1.30—, gyroscopic gravity control system and the high-frequency regulating organ at 6 o’clock. Yet this technical, three-dimensional appearance does not preclude considerable aesthetic sophistication, as well as the use of the finest artistic crafts that Zenith is devoted to perpetuating. The three gold subdials (hours/minutes at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, power reserve at 4 o’clock) are finely guilloché, enamelled in white and fitted with blued steel hands and screws echoing the grand watchmaking traditions. The plate has been entirely hollowed out by hand so as to leave only the Zenith logo and a flurry of stars standing out in relief; and the troughs thus created have been filled with midnight blue lacquer.

The counterweight of the gravity control system has also been enhanced with a sophisticated and poetic touch by a hand-crafted micro-painted depiction of the Southern hemisphere.

The back is an open travel invitation. The back of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage springs a big surprise with a vividly colored and lively evocation of the famous navigator’s many adventures. This authentic miniature painting was created by the finest specialists in various artistic crafts using a sophisticated system of gold appliques fixed directly on the movement. In the foreground, on either side of the mechanism reminiscent of the gimbal suspension typical of marine chronometers, one may admire the finely engraved portrait of Christopher Columbus along with a sextant, the astronomical instrument serving to calculate longitude. The background bears a reproduction of the Santa Maria, the flagship with which Columbus sailed on his first voyage in 1492. The tiny manually cut-out and micro-engraved décor depicts the vessel in abundantly rich detail, particularly in terms of the ropes and rigging.

The various sails, crafted in enamel on a cloisonné base using an engraved champlevé technique, are adorned with the famous red cross – replaced on one of them by Zenith’s famous guiding star in a nod to connoisseurs. Behind the sailboat, the going-train bridge has been chosen to represent the ocean with a background engraved with tiny waves and then coated with a layer of translucent lacquer.

In the background, the barrel bridge opens up the horizon with a micro-painted décor depicting a sky divided into day and night. In a subtle detail, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have arranged the movement structure in such a way as to reveal a small gilded gear train evoking sunrise or sunset. Integrating this décor called for a wealth of ingenuity, including finding points to which the applique elements could be fixed, while reducing the movement thickness and the spaces between the calibre and the ornamentation to an absolute minimum —less than a tenth of a millimeter beneath the sails. Entirely hand-finished by artisans gifted with great dexterity, the fabulous adornment of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage makes each watch a unique work of art and a true collector’s watch.

The quest for precision at the very heart of the movement. While Christopher Columbus pushed back the frontiers of the known world, this model named after him pushes the boundaries of time measurement by combining three mechanisms guaranteeing enhanced precision: a regulating organ with a high oscillating frequency —36,000 vibrations per hour— for dividing time into tenths of a second; a fusée and chain transmission system compensating for the inevitable variations in the force of a barrel while it is unwinding; and a patented gravity control module serving to neutralize the effects of gravity on the rate of a watch. In other words, it successfully solves the problems relating to actually wearing the watch —gravity— and to the length of time it can run independently —a drop in torque—, while simultaneously ensuring remarkable precision in time measurement —linked to the oscillation speed of the balance. These feats are achieved by an exceptional movement comprising 939 parts, including 354 for the calibre itself that in turn houses the 173 elements of the gravity control module; while the fusée and chain system comprises 585 parts. Fusée and chain transmission ensuring constant force. As a mechanical watch gradually winds down, the movement loses amplitude —corresponding to the balance-wheel’s angle of oscillation— and thus becomes less accurate. The fusée and chain transmission system serves on the contrary to keep the driving force perfectly stable throughout the full power reserve – with the helicoidal shape of the fusée compensating for the progress reduction in the force of the barrel. The majority of 16th, 17th and 18th century pocket watches were equipped with a fusée, but today very few watch manufacturers are capable of transposing and fitting this mechanism within the confines of a wristwatch. With the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage, stemming from two full years of development, Zenith has now entered this highly exclusive club. Transmission between the barrel and fusée is handled by an 18cm long chain comprising 585 parts. This highly complex construction features alternating double and intermediate links. Once assembled, it is capable of withstanding a traction force of more than 3 kilos. 

Throughout the power reserve, the mainspring transmits its energy to the fusée via a chain that wraps itself around the barrel. By adjusting the variations in tension, the fusée regulates the force that is passed on to the going train – and thence to the silicon escape-wheel fitted inside the gyroscopic carriage. While it takes more than 50 hours —the power-reserve duration— for the chain to wrap itself around the barrel, winding via the stem provides a fascinating sight. These few seconds enable the fusée and the barrel to turn in opposite directions so that the chain wraps itself back around the fusée. The shape of the fusée was dictated by the optimal force that the Zenith master-watchmakers wished to give the barrel. Its grooved conical contours as well as its dimensions are the result of lengthy and particularly complex complications performed for each of the seven construction stages. This fusée could doubtless never have been created without the full integration of all professions —notably including movement prototype making— cultivated in the Manufacture Zenith, nor without the use of sophisticated equipment. Such is indeed one of the core strengths of an integrated Manufacture. While fusée and chain transmission eliminates variations in isochronism —the equal duration of the oscillations—, the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage also cancels out another effect that is detrimental to the rate of a mechanical watch: the influence of gravity. Working on the principle that keeping the regulating organ in a horizontal position engenders the best possible balance-wheel amplitude and thus results in optimal timekeeping precision, Zenith devised and patented a revolutionary module enabling the “heart” of the movement and the escapement to remain constantly in this position. An avant-garde system brilliantly illustrating the creative daring of the Manufacture, the gravity control system is also a tribute to history, since it is inspired by the marine chronometers that Zenith used to produce, borrowing from these legendary instruments the principle of gimbal suspension introduced in the 16th century on marine compasses so that they would stay horizontal despite the pitching and rolling of the boat.

The gravity control system with its self-regulating gyroscopic mechanism serves to maintain the regulating organ in a permanently horizontal position whatever the angle of the wrist and thereby represents the ultimate evolution of the marine chronometer. The brand with the guiding star is the only watch manufacturer to master this system —duly rewarded in the “Best Complicated Watch” category at the 2011 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix— that it invented after five years of intense development.

Such an exceptional model deserved to be presented to its best advantage. The Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage comes in a precious mahogany box featuring ox bone inlays and that can also serve as a humidor with a capacity of 80 cigars. In homage to Christopher Columbus, this box is adorned with a screen-printed motif on parchment-style papyrus reproducing Waldseemüller’s planisphere (1507), the first world map to mention the name “America”.

A magnificent ocean voyage and a splendid voyage to the heart of the infinitely small: with this limited edition combining fine watchmaking and artistic crafts, Zenith is setting out to conquer fascinating new horizons, inspired as ever by a blend of daring, authenticity and pleasure.

For more info on Zenith click here. 

Technical Data

El Primero 8805, hand-wound. A unique gyroscopic mechanism that maintains the regulating organ in a perfectly horizontal position.

Calibre: 16 ½’’’ (diameter: 37 mm)

Thickness: 5.85 mm

Parts: 354

Gyroscopic carriage composed of 173 parts

Chain made of 585 parts

Jewels: 53

Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)

Over 50-hour power reserve

 

FUNCTIONS

Off-centered hours and minutes at 12 o’clock

“Gravity Control” self-regulating module at 6 o’clock

Small seconds at 9 o’clock

Power-reserve indication at 3 o’clock

Fusée and chain transmission beneath the hours/minutes dial

Case, dial and hands

18-carat rose gold

Diameter: 45 mm

Thickness: 14.80 mm/21.80 mm
(with domed sapphire crystal)

Cambered sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides, domes protecting the Christophe Colomb module

Water resistance 3 ATM

Dial: 3 enameled gold dials

Hour-markers: black lacquered

Hands: blued steel

Reference 18.2211.8805/36.C713 —Brown alligator leather strap with rose gold triple folding clasp.

Experience: Twenty Exceptional Timepieces Sold at Christie's Auction in Geneva. Here's Our In-Depth Review on Them.

With over $30 Million USD —inclusive of buyer's premium— sold in watches, the Important Watches Auction held by Christie's in Geneva on November 11, 2013 was a record breaking and extremely successful auction where most timepieces were sold exceeding their estimates —even Longines watches fetched extremely high amounts. The Important Watches Auction featured 406 lots —not all sold— with 122 Patek Philippe timepieces, 107 Rolex discontinued and modern references, several modern and vintage Panerais, a unique A. Lange & Söhne in stainless steel, Audemars Piguet assorted timepieces, Breguet museum quality watches and a Dürrstein & Co. Glashütte Uhrenfabrik Union Pocket Watch amongst others.

Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, mentioned: “On November 10th and 11th, Christie's dispersed over 370 fine watches in an historical ten-hour auction marathon, which set a new record total for any series of watch sales. In the past months, we exhibited highlights in Taiwan, Japan, Hong Kong, New York, Paris, Dubai and in all locations we noticed an ever-growing appetite for high quality collector’s watches. This trend was demonstrated by a fiercer-than-ever competition generated by both experienced and new international bidders, in the room, on the telephone and online."

Now, for your viewing and reading pleasure, here are twenty amazing timepieces —not Patek Philippe— that are just exceptional and worth talking in-depth about. All hammer prices are in USD and are inclusive of the buyer's premium. All images from Christie's.com

1. Rolex "Padellone"  18K Gold Triple Calendar with Moon Phase ref. 8171 from 1962. This watch was produced in a very limited number between 1949 and 1952. With an incredibly sharp case and sharp engravings, this watch is a "safe queen" with only two owners —Father and Son— before the auction. Hammer Price $684,626.

2. Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 "Explorer" dial from 1954. The ref. 6200 is considered by most the real first Submariner. This watch not only features an amazing "Explorer" dial that includes the "Officially Certified Chronometer" writing —perhaps the only known example of this configuration— but it also features the original hands. Hammer Price $527,891

3.  Rolex 18K Gold Triple Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 6062 from 1952. This reference features a full calendar on top of the chronograph automatic movement. This watch was produced just for a few years in the 50s and is considered by most collectors as the most important Oyster model ever made by Rolex. Not only this watch comes with a perfectly preserved dial but the watch was also featured in John Goldberger's 100 Superlative Rolex Watches book. Hammer Price $501,769.

4.  A. Lange & Söhne Stainless Steel Double Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph with Power Reserve ref. 404.035X from 2006. This is known to be the only piece ever made of this model in Stainless Steel and included box and papers. It seems like in 2007 A. Lange & Söhne created this one single prototype featuring a stainless steel case. Hammer Price $501,769.

5. Dürrstein & Co. Glashütte Uhrenfabrik Union 18K Pink Gold Ultra Complicated Pocket Watch. This watch is fitted with an Audemars Piguet movement, openface, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split seconds chronograph, moon phases, instantaneous minute recorder, flying fifths of a second and grande and petite sonerie. Audemars Piguet was known to supply complicated ébauches to other companies during the period the watch was made.  This watch took two years to make from 1891 to 1893 and finished right on time for its presentation at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition here in Chicago —the watch comes with the entrance ticket to the fair— where it sold for 5,000 Marks, price of a Villa in Dresden at the time. Hammer Price $475,646

6. Rolex Stainless Steel Triple Calendar Chronograph ref. 6236 from 1958. This watch also known as the "Dato-Compax" or "Killy" included the original guarantee papers and is fitted with a two-tone silvered dial. The watch was nicknamed "Killy" as French Olympic skiing legend Jean-Claude Killy sported one of this watches. The three other "Dato-Compax" watches in the series are references 4767, 5036 and 6036.  Produced between 1958 and 1962, this is a rare example with a dial in very good condition with open 6s and 9s. Hammer Price $397,279

7. Rolex Stainless Steel Triple Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 6062 from 1953. This is a very rare example as stainless steel models of this reference are quite scarce and this one is in remarkable condition with sharp and crisp serial number and reference engravings between the lugs and a very well preserved original dial. Hammer Price $371,156.

8. Panerai Stainless Steel ref. 3646 "California" dial from 1940. This particular watch is one of the few examples left from the collaboration between Rolex and Panerai. Panerai Radiomir watches like this ref. 3646 were made by Rolex for Panerai and the so-called black lacquered "California" —half Arabic and half Roman numerals— dials were fitted on them. Some of these earlier Radiomir watches do not bear any Rolex markings or hallmarks. It is known, that approximately thirty of these watches ref. 3646 were intended to be presented to high ranking Navy officials during a ceremony. However, the delivery never took place and the watches were forgotten in a warehouse. Rediscovered decades later, these watches that had remained in unused condition are living testament of that era. Hammer Price $358,095.

9. Rolex Milgauss ref. 6541 with "Honeycomb" dial from 1958.  This watch with 'open' papers features the sought-after honeycomb dial, consisting of two cross aluminum layers to protect it even further against magnetic fields. This example in excellent condition, still shows the traditional Rolex chamfers on the lugs. Hammer Price $345,034.

10. Breguet No. 4420 'Montre Simple Plate à Deux Cadrans Excentriques d'Heures et Minutes' 18K Gold and Silver Hunter Case Pocket Watch. This watch was originally sold to His Majesty King George IV of Great Britain on October 3, 1825 for 2,900 Francs. The watch comes with its original red Morocco box no. 4420. According to Christie's "it is unknown when King George IV parted with his watch but it can safely be assumed that he presented it to a member of the Scottish noble family Douglas-Hamilton, most likely to his close acquaintance Alexander Douglas-Hamilton, 10th Duke of Hamilton (1767-1852), a Scottish politician, art collector and well-known dandy. According to entries in Breguet's books, watch no. 4420 was returned for a complete overhaul in 1850 by the Marquis de Douglas, furthermore mentioning "sold in 1825, never returned". In 1851, the crystal was replaced, also by order of the Marquis de Douglas. The watch was then returned to Breguet for a complete overhaul in 1860 by the Dutch de Hamilton and for a servicing in 1863 by the Duchess de Hamilton. After its servicing at Breguet in 1863, the tracks of watch no. 4420 vanish until around 1920-1921 when it reappears in the family of the celebrated inventor, scientist and watch collector Sir David Lionel Salomons (1851-1925)". Hammer Price $318,912.

11.  Panerai Marina Militare ref. 6152/1 made by Rolex in 1955. This watch ref. 6152/1 was exclusively supplied to the Italian navy with or without crown guard with locking lever and with a rounded case band opposed to the case band on the ref. 6152 that features a sharp angle on the center of it. This watch features a simple Rolex crown without crown guard, Rolex movement, 'sandwich' dial and Rolex markings on the case. Following the production of ref. 3646, Panerai requested an improved model without wire lugs and increased water-resistance, the result was ref. 6152 and ref. 6152/1 widely known as the "Luminor" —tritium luminescent material that replaced the Radiomir mix used. Early examples of ref. 6152 still feature the "Radiomir Panerai" signed dials but the majority of these watches feature cases and movements made by Rolex. Most watches supplied to the Italian Naval Forces were requested to bear the designation "Marina Militare" on the dial. Hammer Price $266,667

12. Rolex 18K Gold GMT Master ref. 6542 with Bakelite bezel, Dauphine hands and Champagne dial from 1959.  This fascinating watch all original, barely polished and with box and unsigned papers is as good as any vintage full-set gets. The untouched and unmolested champagne dial features the 'ghost' gold imprinting that is so subtle that it is only visible when holding the watch at certain angle or upon close inspection. The bakelite bezel in excellent condition and the hands with very little corrosion. Hammer Price $266,667

13. Bovet 18K Gold, Enamel and Pearl-set Openface Duplex Pocket Watch from 1820. This watch especially made for the Chinese market, combines Bovet's Chinese calibre movement and a finely painted enamel miniature case by enamelist Jean-François-Victor Dupont. During the turmoil of the late Manchu China, Bovet watches became increasingly popular there. Fleurier —Edouard Bovet's hometown— is the European centre for the manufacture of Chinese watches, with several brands dedicated only to that market. This watch features cloisonné, champlevé enamel  and pearl-set borders. Hammer Price $266,667.

14. Rolex 'Patent Pending' Double Red Sea-Dweller ref. 1665 with Prototype Bracelet and Mark I Dial from 1969. The ref. 1665 is a very sought-after watch and it's known that maybe about 150 of this watches were ever made. Since its helium valve had been developed and the patent had been applied, but Rolex had not received final approval the case back features the engraving in parenthesis “Patent Pending". This fantastic reference was only produced between 1969 and 1977. While most Mark I dials on this reference show that the Double Red writing has faded to a light pink or even white color, the dial on this watch is still as red as when it left Rolex. Additionally, this perfect example contains the last three digits of the serial number inside the case back along with the reference number as it should be. Lastly, this rare piece features a prototype bracelet with the Rolex crown located sideways on the clasp. Hammer Price $247,075.

15. Rolex 18K Gold GMT Master ref. 6542 with Bakelite bezel and burgundy brown nipple "Exclamation" Dial with Dauphine hands from 1958. This amazing example with very little polishing features the very desirable and ultra-rare burgundy brown so-called "exclamation" dial with gold printing. For those of you that don't know, the name comes from the luminous dot positioned right underneath the 6 o'clock hour marker making it look like an 'exclamation' symbol. After the US Atomic Energy commission asked Rolex to recall the first batch of the 6542s due to their supposed radiation risk, the dials were marked with a small dot below the six o'clock marker to note that the issue had been corrected. From the second batch on, the watches were either fitted with a dash or with the now well-known 'Swiss T<25' writing that indicated that tritium had been used but that the small amount of it presented no risk to the wearer. Hammer Price $214,422

16. Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 "Square Crown Guards" Retailed and Marked by Serpico & Laino from 1959.  This reference was introduced in 1959 featuring crown guards with square ends. It is known that very few of these watches were ever made with this type of crown guards and the serial numbers are in the low 478,000s. This watch fitted with a very well preserved gilt dial comes with the depth rating in silver and the retailer signature 'Serpico y Laino' —from Caracas, Venezuela— above said rating. The case back features a Serpico y Laino engraving as 'S&L ACERO'. The bezel insert features the red triangle at 12 o'clock common only in the Big Crown Submariners ref. 6538. It is very possible that this is the only example of a watch featuring these characteristics. Hammer Price $207,891.

17.  Rolex GMT Master ref. 6542 with Tropical dial, Bakelite bezel, Red Font Calendar disc and no bracelet from 1958. This amazing example comes with a bakelite bezel in very good condition, a highly "tropical" dial with matching hands, a fascinating red font calendar disc but unfortunately no bracelet —the strap does match perfectly the color of the dial. Hammer Price $188,299.

18. Panerai ref. 3646 made by Rolex in 1943. This watch is another one of those Panerai timepieces commissioned to Rolex for its manufacturing. This is one of the so-called "no name" series with blank dial, generally reserved for the German Navy's Special Forces. The watch features a sandwich dial and a smaller than usual crown. Hammer Price $108,844.                                                                  

19. Rolex Submariner ref. 6204 from 1963 . This watch features pencil hands and seconds lollipop hand, there is no depth rating on the dial and it features the bezel with no graduation on the first 15 minutes. Hammer Price $72,109

20. Longines Stainless Steel Monopusher Flyback Chronograph ref. 5681 from 1950. According to the Archives of Longines this watch has originally sold in Amsterdam, Holland on September 8, 1950. A watch originally designed for military purpose with a chronograph that can be start/stop/reset with just one button. It was surprising to see a Longines fetch such a high amount on money at the auction. Hammer Price $50,340.

In addition to all the fascinating timepieces we featured on this post, there were many more that commanded high amounts and that are true collector's examples of some fascinating references across an array of brands.

As you can imagine, we are already looking forward to the upcoming Christie's auctions in Hong Kong —Important Watches Auction on November 27—, London —Jewelry and Watches Auction on December 11— and New York —Important Watches Auction to be held on December 17, 2013.

For more info on Christie's click here.

Experience: Twenty Amazingly Rare Patek Philippe Timepieces Sold for More Than $12 Million Dollars at Christie's Auction in Geneva.

The Christie's Important Watches Auction held in Geneva today Monday November 11, 2013 included a total of 122 amazing Patek Philippe timepieces of which only ten didn't sell. The total dollar amount fetched by all watches sold at the auction exceeded $30 million, of which Patek Philippe made more than half of it.

For this in-depth review of what happened at the auction around the Patek Philippe timepieces, we have picked the twenty Patek Philippe watches that fetched the highest amounts —all of them above a quarter of a million dollars each— and which all combined, sum up a total amount of $12,020,680 USD. All hammer prices are in USD and are inclusive of the buyer's premium. All images from Christie's.com

1. The star of the auction and the watch that fetched the highest amount was the Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 2499 manufactured in 1951 and encased in 1957. According to the Patek Philippe archives, the watch was originally sold on December 15, 1960. This reference is one of the most legendary Patek references and features raised hard enamel printings of all elements on the dial. Hammer Price $2,160,544.  

2. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1563 with Luminous Breguet numerals, rounded pushers and screw case back from 1947 that was originally sold on June 30, 1950. Few complicated Patek Philippe references are as rare as this reference of which only three examples are known to exist. Hammer Price $1,572,789.

3. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 2499 with Cartier on the dial —probably a unique piece— from 1966 originally sold on April 29, 1968. The watch was sold with Cartier's certificate of authenticity stating that the watch was delivered to Cartier New York in 1968. Hammer Price $1,024,218.

4. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 1518 with an ultra rare two-tone dial —possibly a unique piece dial— from 1950 and originally sold on December 16, 1952. What makes this watch even more desirable is the two-tone silvered dial fitted on this watch, that has never been seen before on any other ref. 1518. The two-tone dial provides a unique visual effect depending on the lighting conditions and the angle at which the light hits the dial. Hammer Price $1,024,218.

5. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 3448 Blue dial —probably a unique piece— with raised gold markers from 1978. The watch originally  sold on November 10, 1978. The uniqueness of this watch —besides the beautiful color of its dial— comes from the fact that it is known that only four watches ref. 3448 were fitted with color dials —other than the traditional silvered— and while three feature champagne dials, it appears like this is the only one with a blue dial. Hammer Price $684,626

6.  Patek Philippe 18K Rose Gold Chronograph ref. 530 sold by Astrua Torino in 1941. The ref. 530 was launched in 1937 and it is one of the rarest Patek chronographs, furthermore, the Astrua ref. 530 is one of the most impressive oversized chronographs by this manufacture and it is known that this is the only ref. 530 featuring the Astrua marking on the dial. Additionally, this is the first time that it's been offered at auction and the case and dial are as sharp and original as it gets. Even the lugs still display the original satin finish pointing towards the strap. Hammer Price $658,503

7. Patek Philippe Calatrava 18K Pink Gold Dual Time Zone ref. 2597 with independent adjustable second time zone hand manufactured in 1963 but originally sold until January 8, 1981. This particular reference is one of the rarest Pateks ever and it was such unpopular that it was discontinued quite quickly. Interestingly enough, this watch —among other four of this same reference in pink gold— is living testament of that unpopularity as it sat unsold for 18 years after its production. This watch is also the only example to feature luminescent material on its hands. This watch was auctioned in mint unworn and unpolished condition. Hammer Price $501,769.  

8.  Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Chronograph ref. 1463 with Breguet numerals and rounded pushers manufactured in 1945 and originally sold on July 29, 1946. The Breguet numerals on this watch are ultra rare —less than twenty examples in stainless steel known to exist up to date. Described by Italian collectors as the "tasti tondi" for its rounded pushers, this watch was also featured in the book Patek Philippe Steel Watches by John Goldberger, pp. 286 - 287. Hammer Price $501,769.  

9. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 with pink dial from 1940 and originally sold on April 13, 1942. This pink gold reference is one of the rarest Pateks sold at auction and less than ten examples have sold at auction in the last 30 years —only four were fitted with pink dials. Additionally, the watch is a only two-owner watch. Hammer Price $423,401.

10. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Minute Repeater ref. 2524/1 manufactured in 1954 and sold on August 11, 1960. This watch is one of four examples that does not have a seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock and its repeater lever mechanism is activated by pushing it downwards. Hammer Price $397,279.

11. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 2497 with box and papers manufactured in 1953 and originally sold on September 8, 1956. This rare example features a sweep center seconds hand which is very uncommon for this Patek reference. Hammer Price $384,218

12. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 1526 with pink dial manufactured in 1948 and originally sold on October 18, 1949. It is known that of this very rare reference in 18K pink gold only a little bit over 200 watches were ever made by Patek and even fewer feature a pink dial like this one. Furthermore, this watch remains in unpolished condition. Hammer Price $345,034.  

13. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 with two-tone silvered sector dial manufactured in 1950 and subsequently originally sold on November 1, 1952. The Split Seconds Chronograph is a very rare Patek and this particular watch features a sector/aviator dial that was added after its original purchase to enhance its look even more —completely stunning in our opinion. Hammer Price $331,973.

14. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 2438/1 with box and service papers from 1954 and originally sold on June 23, 1958. This watch just like the ref. 1436 that sold for $428,406 is also a only two-owner watch. This reference is fitted with a screw case back to make it water-resistant. Hammer Price $305,850.

15. Patek Philippe Stainless Steel and 18K Pink Gold Chronograph ref. 130 with two-tone pink dial from 1947. The watch was originally sold on June 25, 1948 and its reference marks the first chronograph to be fitted with calibre 13 and in production from 1936 until 1964. This two-tone model is known to be quite rare and up to date there are only other seven pieces to be known to exist. Hammer Price $305,850

16. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 manufactured and sold in 1946. This watch was auctioned with an additional silvered dial that the previous owner had purchased to give the watch a more current look. Hammer Price $292,789.

17. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Minute Repeater ref. 3979 with white porcelain white dial with box and papers. The watch was originally sold on March 30, 1992. This reference was launched in 1989 to commemorate Patek Philippe's 150th anniversary, discontinued only nine years later and replaced by ref. 5078. Hammer Price $292,789

18. Patek Philippe Platinum Flared Sides ref. 2442 with diamond-set dial manufactured in 1949 and originally sold on February 11, 1950. This watch is powered by a rare rectangular movement with only 150 watches ever made of which only three examples of the platinum model are known to exist. Hammer Price $292,789

19. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Openface Keyless Lever Tourbillon Pocket Watch with Breguet numerals and Bulletin d'Observatoire manufactured in 1930, encased in 1951 and originally sold on December 21, 1951. This watch comes with a certificate from the Geneva Observatory attesting that the pocket watch participated in a timing contest in 1946 obtaining the third prize. for Hammer Price $266,667.

20. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Openface Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 658 Keyless Lever Pocket Watch with Moon Phases and box manufactured in 1931, encased in 1955 and originally sold on July 18, 1955. This watch is known to be one of only five examples of this reference. Hammer Price $253,605.

 

As expected from such an array of exceptional timepieces, the prices went up through the roof. Congratulations to all the collectors that added this amazing creations to their vaults.

For more info on Christie's click here and for Patek Philippe here.  

Making History: Rolex Daytona Paul Newman ref. 6263/6239 From 1969 Sells for $1,089,186 USD at Christie's Rolex Daytona "Lesson One" Auction in Geneva. Over $13 Million Dollars Sold in 50 Timepieces.

Today, November 10, 2013 Surpassing all expectations, the Rolex Daytona "Lesson One" Auction —a prestigious single-themed evening auction featuring 50 exceptional examples of the world's most celebrated chronograph wristwatch, totaled CHF 12,032,850 —$13,248,167 USD— selling 100% by lot and by value, at Christie's Geneva. 

The watch that fetched the highest amount was an all original Rolex Cosmograph Oyster Paul Newman ref. 6263/6239 Case No. 2,197,870 manufactured in 1969 with box and papers selling for $1,089,186 USD. This amount —inclusive of the buyer's premium— as well as the price for any other Rolex Daytona sold at this auction, breaks all previous records set on any auctions of this reference up to date.

Created by Aurel Bacs to mark the 50th anniversary of Rolex's most iconic model, this unique sale presented only the best and most mythical Daytona wristwatches ever produced. Aurel Bacs, who is the International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented: “Christie's first ever evening auction dedicated to wristwatches proved an unprecedented success. With four hundred people in the saleroom and plenty more queuing outside, I rarely experienced a similar rock concert atmosphere from the rostrum. Possibly the most rigorously curated watch auction ever staged, each lot was selected by Christie's watch department in partnership with Mr. Pucci Papaleo according to a disciplined approach to originality, condition and provenance. Setting 50 world records for 50 watches as well as achieving an absolute record price for any Rolex Daytona ever sold at auction, Rolex Daytona "Lesson One" will be remembered as an historical event”.

Along with this amazing ref. 6263/6239 Paul Newman from 1969, other fascinating Daytonas fetched serious money above the $150,000 USD range all of them exceeding their estimates. In second place comes an extremely rare Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 from 1974 especially made for Sultan Qaboos Bin Said Al Said with box —sold by Asprey to Oman— selling for $864,521 USD —inclusive of the buyer's premium. 

In third place, an extremely rare Rolex Daytona with pulsations dial from 1967 ref. 6239 sold at $838,090 USD —inclusive of the buyer's premium.

Below you will find six other Daytonas that fetched the highest amounts above the $400,000 USD range. The estimates on all these watches were exceeded, fetching amounts two to three times higher than those estimates.

For more info on Christie's click here.

News: MB&F Unveils the Horological Machine No.5 RT in Red Gold. A New Limited Edition of Only 66 Pieces.

Press Release

Horological Machine No.5 is back 'On the Road Again', with a new 'RT' limited edition in red gold. After the original HM5 in zirconium presented in 2012, most would wonder why is the manufacture crafting another 66 pieces in red gold? Well, gold is highly resistant to corrosion; it conducts heat or electricity and reflects infrared radiation. Gold is highly malleable: a single gram can be beaten into a sheet of 1 micron. Gold is precious: all the gold ever mined in human history would fit in a cube of just 21 meters on each side. But let's get to the point: the real reason why MB&F is crafting this edition in red gold is because they think it looks damn beautiful!

HM5 RT is full of surprises: Hour and minute displays look straightforward, but they are bi-directional jumping hours with indications inverted, reflected 90° and magnified 20%. HM5 RT has a futuristic case design, but it’s from the 1970s. HM5 RT has a mechanical movement, but inspired by an era when quartz was King. The rear louvers on super cars block light, but on HM5 RT they let light in. Befitting its automotive heritage, HM5 RT has exhaust pipes, but they drain water. The gold endowing the HM5 RT case with such a rich lustrous glow was found on earth, but was actually created billions of years ago in deep space.

While we might still be waiting for flying cars, with the HM5 RT you can put a high-tech golden super car on your wrist! As with any super car, the best often lies under the hood and ‘lifting the hood’ of the HM5 RT case reveals a surprise: an inner case! Like a Russian Matryoshka doll, peeling away one layer reveals a second case in titanium. The reason for housing the Engine in an inner container is for water resistance. Those super car louvers let in water as well as light —the reason for those dual exhaust ports— so to protect the high-performance Engine from moisture as well as shocks, it is housed in its own titanium shell. This inner case is similar to the rigid chassis of a car on which the external coachwork/body is attached. Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Boucard and the team at Chronode developed the HM5 Engine. It may appear simple, but it’s complicated! Jumping hours are bi-directional, enabling the time to be easily set both forwards and backwards. The two mineral glass disks of the hours and minutes are supported by a flat wide bridge. The disks overlap to maximize their diameter and space for large legible numerals. Turning HM5 RT over reveals the Engine, with its 22k gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ winding rotor, fast oscillating balance and stunning hand-finished bridges, through a sapphire crystal display back that is set into the water resistant container.

Horological Machine No. 5 RT retains all the key features of  the HM5: a hand-finished automatic movement with bi-directional jumping hours; a vertical time display reflected and magnified by a sapphire crystal optical prism; 'light convector' flaps which allow to charge the superluminova hour and minute discs and to compensate for the higher weight of the external red gold case, they've modified the inner protective compartment from stainless steel to titanium. While HM5 RT has a generously sized 51.5mm x 49mm case and gold is known for its weight as much as its beauty, thanks to the discrete use of ultra-light titanium, HM5 RT is a very comfortable machine to wear.

Technical Specifications

ENGINE

Three-dimensional horological engine developed by Jean-François Mojon and Vincent Boucard of Chronode. Powered by a Sowind gear train. Battle-axe 22k gold ‘mystery ’ automatic winding rotor.

Power reserve: 42 hours

Balance frequency: 28,800bph/4Hz

Number of components: 224

Number of jewels: 30

Engine housed in a water resistant, titanium inner container

FUNCTIONS / INDICATIONS

Minutes and bi-directional jumping hours displayed by reflective sapphire crystal prism with integrated magnifying lens. Slide to open/close louvers on case top.

CASE

18K Red gold and titanium with internal water resistant titanium engine container. Slide button to open/close louvers. Exhaust ports to drain water.

Dimensions: 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm

Number of components: 80

Water resistance of engine container: 30 meters

SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS

Smoked optical grade sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and 20% magnification. Sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.

STRAP & BUCKLE

Sculptured rubber strap, titanium tang buckle.

 

Sticker Price $82,000 USD. For more info on MB&F click here. 

News: Armin Strom Presents the Gravity Fire. A Limited Edition of 100 Pieces with a Micro Rotor.

Armin Strom Gravity is the first watch from the Biel-based Manufacture to feature an automatic winding mechanism with a micro-rotor. With this first series of automatic watches driven by the Manufacture’s new AMR13 calibre, Armin Strom wanted to express the essence of a fundamental law of physics —that of gravity. Thus, the laws of gravity are used in an automatic watch to transform movements into a mode of indicating the time. However, the Armin Strom Gravity does not simply provide a glimpse of how this transformation works, rather, the dial is designed to proudly display the micro-rotor, which captures the power of the movements and transforms them into energy. The visibility of this mechanism is made possible thanks to an innovative concept of transmission for the rotor, which remains smaller in size than the diameter of the going barrel.

The Armin Strom Gravity collection is available in four colors that represent the four elements: Fire, Earth, Water and Air. The Armin Strom Gravity boasts the same exceptional level of finishing that has contributed to the reputation of the brand and of its eponymous founder. This is a timepiece that will appeal to connoisseurs of fine watchmaking wishing to celebrate the movement in all its forms.

Technical Specifications of the Armin Strom ref. RG13-GF.90 Gravity Fire

Manufacture movement
Armin Strom Calibre AMR13: Automatic, 5-day power reserve, small seconds and off-centered time indications
Frequency: 18,000 A/h
Jewels: 32
Number of components: 171

Case
18K Rose gold
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 43.40 mm
Total height: 13.00 mm
Water-resistance: 50 m

Dial ring
Black with founded appliques

Hands
Mirror polished

Straps
Delivered with a genuine brown alligator horn-back strap and 18K rose gold ardillon buckle as well as an additional brown rubber strap. A double-fold clasp in 18K rose gold is available on option.

Edition
Limited to 100 pieces

For more info on Armin Strom click here.  

News: Jaeger-LeCoultre is The Official Sponsor of the 120th Argentine Polo Open of Palermo.

Press Release 

In 2013, Jaeger-LeCoultre enjoys the honour of becoming the official sponsor and timekeeper of the 120th Argentine Polo Open of Palermo – the oldest polo tournament in the world, which is celebrating its 120th anniversary this year. From November 16th to December 7th 2013, polo aficionados will be able to enjoy this fascinating championship featuring three weeks of competition pitting the world’s eight best teams against each other. The event created in 1893 was initially named the River Plate Polo Championship and acquired its definitive name in 1923 when the River Plate Polo Association became the Argentine Polo Association. Ever since, the Open of Palermo is held each year at the Campo Argentino de Polo in Palermo, a Buenos Aires district popularly known as the 'Cathedral of Polo'. The polo stadium can accommodate up to 16,000 spectators during the tournament around the two grass playing fields providing an oasis of greenery amid the Buenos Aires skyscrapers. 

Organized by the Argentine Polo Association —AAP—, the Argentine Polo Open of Palermo is the world’s most prestigious polo tournament. Together with the Tortugas Open-Argentina and the Hurlingham, the Argentine Polo Open of Palermo form the famous Argentine Triple Crown, one of the most spectacular and eagerly awaited fixtures on the annual polo calendar and reserved exclusively for teams with a 28 to 40-goal handicap.

No watch can claim to be as closely linked to the world of polo as the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre. It was created in 1931 at the request of British colonial army officers in India who were tired of seeing their watches damaged by their polo matches – thereby sparking the invention of the famous swiveling case that protected the glass and dial by exposing only the metal back to potential knocks. Ever since, the ties between the legendary reversible case and polo have remained deeply embedded in the DNA of the Reverso watch, which has constantly evolved and adapted to changing times. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre is more inseparably bound up than ever with polo through its regular involvement in sporting partnerships around the world thanks to its internationally recognized ambassadors such as Argentinean polo player Eduardo Novillo Astrada.

For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here. 

News: The Poinçon de Genève Launched New Website Today. More Than a Million Timepieces Bear the Poinçon Today.

Press Release

More than 125 years after its promulgation by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Genève, the Poinçon de Genève remains the oldest watchmaking certificate in the world, issued by a neutral and independent organization operating under State control. Since it was updated in 2011, it is also the only official certification that guarantees a watch’s quality of craftsmanship, chronometric precision and principal functions by checking each timepiece individually.

At the end of the 16th century, Geneva acquired a reputation of excellence in international watchmaking. Its name alone had a magical effect, and was soon being exploited by unscrupulous manufacturers. To combat such abuse and counterfeiting, the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Genève officially introduced the Poinçon de Genève on 6 November 1886. Generally stamped on one of the watch components such as the bridge or baseplate, the Poinçon de Genève was exclusively reserved for mechanical watches that had been assembled, adjusted, cased up and checked in the Canton. More than a seal of approval, it embodied the spirit of the 'cabinotiers': the independent watchmakers based in the Saint-Gervais district who formed the dedicated aristocracy of the working class and who elevated watchmaking to an art form. 

The Poinçon de Genève is currently the only watchmaking label to benefit from State guarantee. Today, this responsibility is fulfilled by TIMELAB, the Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Micro-engineering. The inspection criteria are drawn up by a Technical Commission made up of seven experts appointed for their knowledge and expertise in fine watchmaking. Their purpose, according to Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, founder and director of the company Agenhor and member of the Commission, “is not so much to define standards as to ensure the great tradition of Swiss watchmaking is preserved and respected. The Poinçon de Genève offers the assurance that a watch has been designed and manufactured according to the rules.”

In 2011, to mark the Poinçon’s 125th anniversary, the Technical Commission announced it was updating the rules to take into account technical progress and recent developments in the watchmaking industry. To complement the rigorous criteria of craftsmanship set out in 1886, it added tests on the finished watch: functions, water resistance, power reserve and accuracy. The Poinçon de Genève now covers the aesthetic, technical and functional aspects of the watch and is the only watchmaking certificate that guarantees the quality of decoration and the proper functioning of the watch, which is fully tested and checked individually in simulated on-wrist conditions.

The incredibly strict criteria of the Poinçon de Genève mean that certification is the prerogative of fine watches made by "manufactures" and independent watchmakers based in Geneva. The brands that comply with the certification standards undertake to respect its philosophy, right down to the design and development of their timepieces. In return, the Poinçon and accompanying certificate provide their clients with objective, irrefutable and internationally recognised proof of the quality of their craftsmanship and the correct functioning of their timepieces.

Since 1886, every watch stamped with the Poinçon de Genève has been delivered with a certificate of origin. Since September 2013 it has also included a unique authentication key and QR code. These enable the purchaser to check the authenticity of the document and the watch’s certification before buying it by consulting a database available on the website. Produced using an innovative procedure that combines holographic and hot stamping techniques, the certificate is almost impossible to forge.

Commemorating the 127th anniversary of the passing of the law of 1886, the Poinçon de Genève launched its website. The new website features a history section that traces the evolution of the Poinçon from the time of the “Fabrique” —late 16th century. A technical section explains the approval criteria and to ensure full transparency, it details the different stages and working methods of the individual functional tests and the people who carry them out. In addition, there is an international database that covers all watches that have received the Poinçon since September 2013. A major effort is currently underway to create an archive of all watches approved since 1886 —more than a million timepieces.

Some of the brands that currently submit their timepieces for the Poinçon de Genève are Cartier, Chopard, Roger Dubuis and Vacheron Constantin.

To check the Poinçon de Genève new website click here.

News: Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia Zagato. Two 500-piece Limited Edition Watches.

From the exclusive partnership between Chopard and luxury automotive designer Zagato, comes the 500-piece limited-edition Mille Miglia Zagato. Since its founding in 1919, Zagato has collaborated with the most prestigious automobile manufacturers, creating icons of the road which have taken home the Mille Miglia trophy in the 1930s and as recently as 2012. Inspired by the company's current crop of esteemed automobiles, this exceptional timepiece ref. 168550-6001 in DLC blackened stainless steel and 18-karat rose gold features the Zagato logo on both the case back and grill-inspired dial, curved chronograph counters reminiscent of a Zagato roof and a red pusher, for a distinct nod to the racing world.

Exclusive, robust and technically impressive, the Mille Miglia Zagato watch is the product of the partnership between Chopard and that legend of Italian automobile design, the bodyshop Zagato. While Chopard takes care of the model’s "performance", “engine “and "frame", Zagato helps create its "bodywork", "interior" and "upholstery". Much more than an ad-hoc collaboration, this limited series is defined by both the Grand Turismo style of Zagato and the timekeeping discipline of Chopard.

It was along the route of the legendary Mille Miglia road race that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Co-President of Chopard, met with Andrea Zagato, the third generation in his family to head the Milan-based automobile body design firm. Chopard is the official timekeeper of the Mille Miglia race, in which the family has participated for the last 25 years. It was from here that the idea came of collaborating on a watch to celebrate their shared passion for automobiles and the values embodied by the Mille Miglia.

Sticker Price $9,900 USD for DLC Blackened Stainless Steel with 18K rose gold ref. 168550-6001 and $8,100 USD for DLC Blackened Stainless Steel ref. 168550-300.

For more info on Chopard click here.  

 

Posted on October 30, 2013 and filed under News, Chopard.

News: U-BOAT Opens Boutique at the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Another Italian Landmark.

Press Release

U-BOAT opens another Italian landmark in the Ponte Vecchio historical bridge in Florence.

Being present in Florence, capital of the Renaissance, means a lot for all the prestigious brands but even more for Italo Fontana, creative soul behind U-BOAT, and since the beginning standard bearer of the “Made in Tuscany” values.

Italo, born in the near medieval city of Lucca, announces the opening of the U-BOAT third italian flagship store. The boutique, opens its doors in the short and popular pedestrian Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence spanning the River Arno. It is one of the few remaining bridges with houses built upon.

The opening follows the opening of the Italian boutiques in Milan, Corso Como and also overseas with the recent launch of its 18th boutique in the fashionista Nathan Rd. in Hong Kong.

For more info on U-BOAT click here.  

Posted on October 22, 2013 and filed under News, Watch Shopping.

News: Michael P. Sarp President of the Board of Armin Strom Passes. Our Condolences to His Family and Friends.

Press Release

The Armin Strom AG Manufacture is sad to announce the death of Mr. Michael P. Sarp on October 17, 2013 at the age of 65.

Mr. Sarp had been President of the Board of Armin Strom AG since 2010. With his death, the world of watchmaking acknowledges the passing of a leading personality who understood the industry particularly well.

The Armin Strom AG team has lost a mentor and someone who was extra special in all of our eyes. We shall remember his radiant capacity to communicate and dialogue with people, his greatest passion. His presence among the Armin Strom AG team over recent years made a decisive impact on the existence of the company.

We extend our most sincere condolences to his family and friends. Sincerely, the board of administration, the executive board and all employees of Armin Strom AG.

For more info on Armin Strom click here.  

 

News: Richard Mille Introduces the RM055 Bubba Watson Limited Edition for the Americas. 30-Pieces Available of Each Red Drive and White Drive.

Press Release

Richard Mille expands his line of watches created in collaboration with Bubba Watson, the PGA golfer with the longest drive on the tour, with the introduction of two new limited edition versions of the RM055 available exclusively in North and South America.

All of the previous watches created with Bubba Watson—RM038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson, RM038 Tourbillon Victory Watch, and RM055 Bubba Watson—feature stark white cases, bezels and straps. The new limited editions take a 180-degree turn, and are recognizable for their all-black cases and straps with few, bright details. A red flange forms a colorful frame around the skeletonized manual-wound movement of the RM055 Bubba Watson Red Drive limited edition, while a white flange provides a halo around the RM055 Bubba Watson White Drive limited edition’s movement.

Both timepieces feature a case made from black rubberized grade-5 titanium, and a bezel constructed from black ceramic. A black DLC titanium and rubber crown, black rubber strap and black PVD- and Titalyt-treated movement complete the stealth look of the watches. Inside the case of each RM055 beats the caliber RMUL2, which is capable of withstanding accelerations of over 500 Gs, allowing it to perform on the wrist of a golfer with a massive drive.

The movement is equipped with a variable-inertia balance wheel, which ensures reliability in the event of impacts and during assembly and dismantling, thus improving the long-term accuracy of the timepiece. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable inertia adjustment is possible thanks to four small adjustable weights located directly on the balance wheel. The double barrel mechanism helps to improve and equalize long-term torque stability: This is achieved by dispersing the stored energy within two winding barrels, equalizing torque as well as reducing pressure and friction on the bearings and pivots, resulting in improved long-term performance. The distinct construction of the RM055’s case is designed to meet the demanding requirements of sportsmen. The case middle and back are in grade 5 titanium with a protective black rubber casing. This rubber is injected at high pressure around the titanium components, thus insulating the movement from all vibrations. This special surface treatment also makes the watch very comfortable to wear.
 
Richard Mille will produce 30 examples of the RM055 Bubba Watson Red Drive and 30 examples of the RM055 Bubba Watson White Drive. The limited editions are available at authorized Richard Mille retailers in North and South America, as well as the Richard Mille boutiques in Beverly Hills and Las Vegas.

Sticker Price $115,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.  

News: Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas Now Open. Aria Resort & Casino at City Center.

Press Release

On September 23rd, 2013 Richard Mille expanded its presence in America by opening the country’s second Richard Mille boutique: The Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas.
 The new boutique is located within Las Vegas’ most exclusive luxury shopping venue —the Shops at Crystals— adjacent to the ARIA Resort & Casino at City Center on the world-famous Las Vegas Strip.

Upon entering the boutique, guests encounter a 7 ft. tall sculpture modeled after a Richard Mille mechanical movement. The decor of the entire space adheres to Richard Mille’s warm and functional design identity, featuring such contemporary materials as Makassar wood, steel, stone and glass. A massive carved glass sculpture in the shape of Richard Mille’s most iconic watch draws the eye to the center of the store, while high-tech anti-reflective glass showcases provide ideal settings throughout the space for each timepiece on display.

The complete collection of Richard Mille watches for men and women is presented at the new boutique, including such limited editions as the RM 27-01 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal, RM 038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson, RM 59-01 Tourbillon Yohan Blake, and RM 036 Tourbillon Jean Todt G-Sensor. Additionally, Richard Mille has created a series of one-of-a-kind RM 52-01 Tourbillon Skull Nano-Ceramic timepieces, for sale exclusively at the Las Vegas location.

The Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas, within The Shops at Crystals, is located at 3720 South Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas, Nevada, and is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to midnight.

For more on Richard Mille click here.

News: Richard Mille Unveils New Material in Watchmaking. NTPT Carbon To Be Utilized on the RM011.

Press Release

This fall, Richard Mille announces a brand new material to watchmaking named NTPT® —North Thin Ply Technology— carbon to create the first RM011 NTPT® carbon case. Richard Mille will soon unveil a version of its popular RM011 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in an entirely new case using this material.

Originally developed for the sails of racing yachts, NTPT® carbon has quickly become a must-have material in nautical circles. Sails manufactured from this substance are highly resistant and light, and have thus enabled the giants of the seas to claim the finishing lines of the world’s greatest regattas. NTPT® carbon, which has become a reference in composite materials, has been used for Formula 1 car chassis for the last two seasons, and in aeronautics for the fuselage of the future Solar Impulse 2 aircraft. NTPT® carbon is an exclusive material with a unique appearance. Its remarkable surface displays extremely regular undulations, as NTPT® carbon is composed of multiple layers of parallel filaments obtained by dividing carbon fibers. These layers, with a maximum thickness of 30 microns, are impregnated with resin then woven on a special machine that modifies the direction of the weft by 45° between layers, creating this distinctive visual effect that is reminiscent of precious wood. Heated to 120°C at a pressure of 6 bars, the NTPT® is then ready to be processed on a CNC machine in Richard Mille’s Proart case factory.
 
When compared to composite materials, whose exceptional physical properties are already well known, NTPT® carbon improves the rate of occurrence of breaking stresses by 25% and of micro-cracks by 200%. The NTPT® fully protects the RMAC1 automatic caliber, which is recognizable by its large date at 12 o’clock, its month display at 4 o’clock and its flyback chronograph. The movement, made entirely of titanium, has a 55-hour power reserve provided by its double-barrel system wound by a variable geometry rotor.

The new RM 011 Carbon NTPT® introduces innovative technical solutions that are essential to modern watchmaking. This new material has never been used in watchmaking before.

For more info on Richard Mille click here.  

Experience: SIAR Mexico 2013. First Day Live from Mexico City.

As promised, we are reporting live from Mexico City with some highlights of our first day at the SIAR —Salón Intenacional Alta Relojería— 2013. After an exciting press conference with remarks from Carlos Alonso —General Director of the SIAR—, more than twenty CEOs from some of the top manufactures and top personalities of the industry including Mademoiselle Jasmine Audemars, Olivier Audemars, Pascal Ravessoud from the 'Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie' and the Swiss ambassador in Mexico, we can say that our day started on a great note.

These images will show you a little bit of what we experienced today including watchmakers on duty, vintage museum pieces, a wide array of haute horlogerie brands and some amazing caviar and fresh truffle tasting with plenty of Moët & Chandon to wash it down. Tight security with metal detectors, bulletproof cars and bodyguards surrounding the Four Seasons Hotel and the most affluent guests from Mexico City where present during the first day of this amazing event.

Tonight, a Vacheron Constantin 'Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time' Unique Piece —featuring a dial with green and red accents inspired by the Mexican flag— will be auctioned by Sotheby's donating all the proceeds to the 'INAH' —Mexico's national institute of anthropology and history.

By the way, we noticed after taking several pictures of our watch, that the date aperture on it was showing 31 instead of 1 as today is October 1. Perhaps it's time to add a perpetual calendar and quit worrying about adjusting the date. 

Please enjoy the eye candy and stay tuned for more updates in the next days.  

Experience: SIAR Mexico 2013. We are Reporting Directly from Mexico City at the Largest Watch Event in Latin America.

Today, October 1, 2013 is the kick-off of the SIAR 'Salón Internacional Alta Relojería México' at the Four Seasons Hotel in Mexico City. As promised, we will be reporting from the biggest city in the world to bring you exciting content about the most important watch event in Latin America and one of the top five watch events in the world.

There are 40 confirmed brands at the SIAR and the CEOs for most of them will be present at the event. The event kicks-off at 10:30am and we will be providing some updates throughout the day.

In the meantime, here are some images of our arrival into Mexico City yesterday—as you can see, it is one of the most polluted metropolises in the world. After landing, we headed to drop our bags at our host's home and then straight to one of our favorite coffee spots in the upscale neighborhood of Polanco, the Havanna boutique. Havanna is the best selling brand of 'alfajores' from Argentina and its boutique opened four years ago. After grabbing a double espresso macchiato and a dark chocolate 'alfajor' we decided to then head to do some watch shopping. Some of the boutiques we visited include the Omega boutique, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Louis Vuitton, Cartier and Bulgari. We also stopped by the two largest authorized dealers in the city: Berger Joyeros and Peyrelongue Chronos.

After doing some watch shopping, we had to drive around the amazing Soumaya Museum built by Carlos Slim —Mexican mogul and second wealthiest man in the world— to snap a picture for you. The museum is a treat to the eyes and a masterpiece of modern architecture as you can appreciate it the picture.

Then, finally it was time for a well deserved meal at 'Contramar', one of our favorite seafood spots in the heart of the Roma-Condesa neighborhood. We started our meal with an octopus and potato salad, followed by an octopus 'aguachile', a 'pescado a la talla'  and for dessert a perfect 'flan'. After enjoying this amazing meal along with a few Zacapas, we finally decided to put ourselves to rest so that today we could go into the SIAR full of energy.

Stay tuned for the updates throughout the day.  

Posted on October 1, 2013 and filed under News, Events.

Experience: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore LeBron James. The Launch Party in Miami.

Finally, we get to share with you the fascinating party that was hosted by Audemars Piguet in Miami this past Friday, September 27, 2013, honoring the launch of their new Royal Oak Offshore LeBron James Limited Edition ref. 26210OI.OO.A109CR.01.

It was an unforgettable evening filled with glamour, celebrities, watchlifestylers, journalists, bloggers, VIP guests, influencers, amazing timepieces, good music, great food, champagne and some very nice signature cocktails.

Some of the celebrities at the party included LeBron James and his wife Savannah Brinson, Scott Disick —one of Audemars Piguet biggest fans— and Kourtney Kardashian, former NY Giants defensive end Michael Strahan and Audemars Piguet golf ambassador Belen Mozo amongst others. 

During the evening we not only had the chance to admire some of the most beautiful timepieces in the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore collections that were on display, but we also ran into some of the most fascinating timepieces in the wrist of some of the guests. Top sightings include a Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication in Titanium —number 1 of 3— with custom engraved rotor with the owner's initials, a Royal Oak Offshore Pride of Mexico in gold and one in stainless steel, a Royal Oak Jumbo 5402ST A-Series, a Royal Oak Extra Thin Tourbillon, a Royal Oak Offshore Scuba, a few Royal Oak Offshores Michael Schumacher Limited Edition in gold and platinum, a Royal Oak Offshore Carbon Alinghi and of course the brand new LeBron James Limited Edition, but this time outside the display showcase.

Guests from all over the world enjoyed this formidable party and became integral part of this unforgettable celebration. Highlights of the night include the video that was played in synchrony with LeBron's arrival at the party and François-Henry Bennahmias words while greeting him upon his arrival.

Now, enjoy the rest of the pictures!

Audemars Piguet, thank you for including us in this amazing event.

News: Zenith Presents El Primero Lightweight Limited Edition. An Avant-Garde Sports Model Available in Only 100 Pieces.

Zenith focuses firmly on lightness, daring and innovation in an exclusive version of its El Primero Striking 10th chronograph featuring high-tech materials. Issued in a 100-piece limited edition, the El Primero Lightweight model teams a titanium and silicon movement with an ultra-sporty carbon case. It signals the dawn of a new era in the fabulous history of the legendary El Primero calibre.

At the time of its launch in 1969, the El Primero calibre overturned existing conventions by asserting itself as the first-ever automatic chronograph to boast an integrated construction. Also impressing observers by beating at the exceptional frequency of 10 vibrations per hour (36,000 vibrations per hour), it is still the world’s most precise series-made chronograph calibre. Over the years, Zenith has steadily fine-tuned its legendary movement in order to optimize its precision, reliability and its performance.  

Zenith is now taking a new turn by unveiling a sportier and even more avant-garde version of the El Primero Striking 10th. The watchwords are lightness, performance and originality. Through combining technological innovation with creative daring, the engineers and watchmakers of the Manufacture were tasked with the mission of reducing the weight of the watch to an absolute minimum, yet without making any compromises on its precision, its sturdiness and its reliability – just as an engine designed for competition is optimized while bearing all these factors in mind. The sizable feat began with the movement. Based on its latest research relating to new materials, Zenith chose titanium —a light and resistant metal widely used in aeronautics— to machine the main elements of the movements that are the heaviest parts of the watch when they are made in brass: namely the main plate and five bridges —barrel bridge, balance bridge, pallet bridge, pallet-wheel bridge and chronograph bridge. The Manufacture has also maintained the silicon double chronograph wheel, while adding a lever and an escape-wheel made from the same high-tech, light, anti-magnetic material that is harder than steel and guarantees excellent efficiency. The result is a one-quarter lighter engine weighing just 15.45 grams —compared with 21.10 grams for a similar classic movement.

In terms of the watch exterior, the designers reworked and subtly enlarged to 45mm the original 42mm case of the El Primero Striking 10th, while also seeking to make it as light as possible on the wrist. The choice of carbon with its fine black color and its checkered effect evoking the world of competitive racing fits the bill perfectly, while also reinforcing the technical and sporty look of the model. The inner structure of the case is made of ceramized aluminum, a cutting-edge material that is at once light, sturdy and hard —1800 Vickers, as against 160-200 for 316L steel. The two chronograph push pieces are in titanium. The openworked lugs accentuate the aerodynamic profile of the watch and ensure a perfect flow into the integrated black rubber and high-performance Nomex synthetic fiber strap equipped with a triple folding clasp providing optimal security and comfort.

The new El Primero Lightweight is also distinguished by its highly original dial featuring a dynamic reinterpretation of the collection’s design codes. Openworking the central part further enhanced the overall lightness-oriented effect while providing a clear view of the El Primero calibre —also visible through the transparent case back. The disc-type date display has been lightened and reworked with pierced numerals standing out on a small red disc at 6 o’clock. The faceted hands have been hollowed as much as possible and then highlighted by a luminescent coating.  The light grey, blue and anthracite colors recapture the three emblematic colors of the 1969 El Primero chronograph that have become iconic brand features. The red sweep seconds hand with its small Zenith star accurately measures feats to the nearest tenth of a second — just as on the dashboards of the greatest racing champions.

Sporty, contemporary and decidedly masculine by nature, the El Primero Lightweight model brings a distinctive touch to the Zenith collections, while powerfully confirming the innovative capacities and the creating daring cultivated by the Manufacture. With its avant-garde technology and its youthful, dynamic look, it shows that the El Primero calibre still has a bright future ahead of it and doubtless heralds new developments as the brand with the guiding star is gearing up to celebrate its 150th anniversary in 2015.

For more info on Zenith click here.  

 

Posted on September 25, 2013 and filed under News, Zenith.

News: Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents the Master Grand Tourbillon Enamel. A Masterpiece in High Jewellery Collection.

Press Release

For the first time, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a timepiece, the Master Grand Tourbillon Enamel, featuring a sapphire crystal enhanced by a miniature painting applied using an innovative technique. Cranes, an age-old symbol of longevity, adorn the dial and are surrounded by bamboos of which some are meticulously painted on the sapphire crystal of the Master Grand Tourbillon Enamel watch. The decorated watch glass thus echoes the enameled dial, creating an extraordinary overall effect of depth and volume.

In the heart of the watch beats Calibre 978, one of the 1,242 calibres developed and produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre throughout its illustrious history. This caliber is legendary as it has won the memorable first prize in the 2009 International Timing Competition organized by the Watch Museum of Le Locle, Switzerland, and its technical characteristics epitomize the results of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ongoing research. The tourbillon carriage made from a light yet robust titanium alloy weighs just 0.28 grams, thus very little energy is required to maintain its rotations. The energy from the barrel can therefore be entirely used to keep the large-sized variable-inertia balance oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, guaranteeing an exceptional degree of precision. In keeping with fine watchmaking traditions, the parts of this calibre are meticulously decorated by hand, including the oscillating weight in 22-carat gold, seen through the sapphire case back of the watch.

The 18K white gold case measuring 43mm in diameter is embellished with an engraving on the sides and the bezel is set with baguette-cut diamonds that provide a perfect frame for the miniature artwork depicting cranes. No longer officially taught in art schools, the art of enameling is mastered by an exclusive circle of artisans perpetuating their know-how from one generation to the next. A meticulous guilloché work is performed on the white gold dial that is subsequently covered with transparent enamel with a shade of blue. The artist then draws a multicolored landscape and places the glittering Moon made of silver foil. Having fired the piece in the kiln to fix the colors, the enameler works with the 'blanc de Limoges', applying various layers to shape the birds with a relief effect.

The artisan will then give a touch of color to a range of miniature elements such as the plumage of the birds and the curve of their neck. The splash of colors gives life to the embossed design. Aiming at achieving a greater depth effect, the artisan adds miniature design elements to the sapphire glass that covers the dial and fires the glass to fix the colors.

Finally, such extraordinary enameling is matched by an exceptional gem-setting. Within the workshops of the Manufacture, gem-setting is a discipline exercised as an art in its own right. Not only do they master all the customary gestures involved in their craft, but the Jaeger-LeCoultre gem-setters have themselves developed procedures in order to meet specific aesthetic demands. The gem-setter places the 94 baguette-cut diamonds —totaling 8.0 carats— one by one, side by side, skillfully matching differently proportioned stones in order to cover the white gold bezel, lugs and crown of the watch with a precious glowing aura. The buckle of the watch is then set with baguette diamonds as a final sparkling touch.

This timepiece brilliantly combines the traditional know-how of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre dedicated to the quest for precision since its founding in 1833, and a spirit of innovation illustrated by the development of avant-garde technical solutions. This timepiece is available in a limited number of 8 pieces.

For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.  

News: Audemars Piguet Ambassador LeBron James Visits 'La Manufacture' in Le Brassus.

Press Release

Audemars Piguet ambassador, crowned NBA champion as well as world’s Most Valuable Player for the second year running, LeBron James paid a one-day visit to the Manufacture in Le Brassus.

His visit included the Audemars Piguet Museum followed by a tour of the 'Manufacture des Forges' where he spent time in various ateliers including the Specialties and Grande Complication. “Visiting the Audemars Piguet Manufacture in Le Brassus for the first time was an amazing experience. It is such a beautiful place and I really enjoyed learning and seeing firsthand how the watch is made from beginning to end,” said LeBron after his visit.

LeBron James has written one of the most impressive pages in basketball history over the past couple of seasons, with consecutive regular-season MVP awards, consecutive NBA titles as well as NBA Finals MVP trophies bracketing two Olympic gold medals. He has become the third player in league history after Michael Jordan and Bill Russell to win back-to-back Finals MVP and regular-season MVP awards.

LeBron James perfectly embodies Audemars Piguet’s brand philosophy “to break the rules, you must first master them”. Striving for perfection and passionate for the game, he constantly reinvents and raises the bar for himself. A keen devotee of Haute Horlogerie, LeBron wears a Millenary 4101.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.