The Slim d'Hermès collection has always been Hermès Horloger's argument for restraint as mastery—thin, measured, and disciplined in a way that the H08 expressly is not. The Slim d'Hermès Squelette Lune, which we first covered ahead of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, debuted in new titanium and platinum executions in early 2026 and was then shown at the Hermès booth at the fair. The double-moon phase, ultra-thin movement, two metals, two moods—it warrants a closer look.
Things to Know About the Watch
The 39.5 mm cushion case is offered in two executions. The titanium version pairs a bead-blasted Grade 5 titanium case and case back with a DLC-treated bezel; the platinum version offers a polished 950 platinum bezel against the same titanium construction, wearing richer and more formal. A white gold crown is common to both. The all-titanium version is light as a feather, weighing only 37.2 grams. Its titanium and platinum counterpart is slighty heavier at 52 grams.
What distinguishes this piece from conventional moon phase watches is its dual-hemisphere display at six o'clock, a complication that acknowledges the global perspective of contemporary collectors. Rather than presenting the lunar cycle from a single viewpoint, the watch simultaneously tracks phases visible from both Northern and Southern hemispheres—as on the Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Moonphase—a technical consideration that speaks to Hermès's commitment to functional artistry over mere decoration.
The skeletonized dial presents the movement through an openworked architecture, with hand-chamfered and bead-blasted bridges, treated in Vert d’Eau tones on the titanium model and blue on the platinum model. The double-moon phase at 6 o’clock tracks the lunar cycle simultaneously in both hemispheres. Water resistance is rated to 30 meters, consistent with the dressy register of the Slim line.
The titanium edition employs bead-blasted grade 5 titanium construction with a polished, DLC-treated anthracite bezel. Its openworked dial features a sunburst anthracite finish, the skeletal architecture revealing movement components through carefully calculated negative space. Black gold-treated baton hands traverse a transfer-printed white minutes track, while the watch sits on a matte Gris Étain alligator strap that showcases Hermès's expertise in leather atelier.
The platinum variant presents a more cerebral proposition. Its sunburst dial coordinates with blue-toned bridge treatments visible through the sapphire case-back, creating chromatic continuity between the dial-side exhibition and the movement architecture. The Bleu Abysse matte alligator strap completes the tonal statement, offering collectors who favor precious metals an alternative to the titanium's industrial aesthetic.-blue openwork
The Movement
The watches are powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1953 movement, an ultra-thin skeletonized calibre measuring just 3.57mm thick. This micro-rotor construction achieves the delicate balance between skeletal exhibition and functional integrity, its 178 components and 29 jewels arranged to maximize visual depth while maintaining a 48-hour power reserve. The bridges receive diamond-cut and bead-blasted finishes, their surfaces treated to echo the dial colorations—Vert d'Eau tones for the anthracite variant, blue treatments for the platinum edition. The movement beats at 21,600 vph, a traditional frequency that prioritizes longevity and serviceability over chronometric extremes.
On the Wrist & Price
The Slim d'Hermès Squelette Lune succeeds by refusing to overstate its complications. Where many manufactures might overwhelm skeletal dials with excessive finishing or architectural gymnastics, Hermès maintains the restrained discipline that has defined the Slim collection since its inception. The result is a moon phase watch that reveals without boasting, displaying horological capability through measured transparency rather than technical exhibitionism—a philosophy entirely consistent with the maison's broader creative vision.
Sticker Price USD 25,500 for titanium and USD 42,450 for platinum. For more info on Hermès, click here.
