Insider: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T. Hands-on with an Exceptional Monochromatic Timepiece in Platinum.

If you like monochromatic watches, the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T/000P-B048 is an exceptional timepiece in platinum that will complement your grey and black outfits like no other watch out there. Equipped with the new in-house Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1142 QP and cased in a generous 43 mm case in 950 platinum, the newest grand complication from Vacheron Constantin has chosen to combine two of the finest complications out there: the chronograph and the perpetual calendar. With its classic round case and elegant black crocodile strap, this Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T embodies formal elegance with supreme mastery.

The Case & Dial

The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T is the ultimate expression horological mastery. With its distinctive design codes reflected in each and every detail, this exceptional timepiece features a 43 mm stepped case with a distinctive fluted pattern on the rim of the case back and rectangular pushers. While the case is made out of platinum, the watch is surprisingly light.

Its monochromatic slate-colored opaline dial features a various shades of gray, a white railway minute track, a white tachymetric scale surrounding the dial and dauphine hands. From a design standpoint, the dial is clean and easy to read, regardless of the amount of information that is packed into this watch. Reflecting the layout of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs, the dial features running seconds indicator at 9 and a 30-minute chronograph register at 3 o'clock both distinguished by a circular-brushed ring with snailed center.

At 12 o'clock, three small apertures provide the day of the week, the month and the leap year information. But what takes the center stage on this dial, is the hand-finished 22K white gold moon phase indicator at 6 o'clock. Positioned in the center of a date counter with a dark grey rim, it provides a symbolic depiction of a moon face that is alternately smiling or melancholic, depending on the path of the Earth’s satellite.

The Movement

Powering the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T is the new new in-house calibre 1142 QP with 324 parts and 21 jewels. This manual wound movement entirely designed and developed at Vacheron, replaces the previous 1141 QP. The new movement drives the perpetual calendar functions as well as the chronograph functions with a direct-drive seconds hands and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, positioned opposite the small seconds at 9 o’clock. Beating at a frequency of 21,600 vph —3 Hz.— the movement offers a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound. Fully visible through the display case back, this movement is extremely beautifully finished and a piece of horological architecture worthy of contemplating. The movement is so beautiful that this is one of those watches that could be worn inside out.

On the Wrist & Pricing

The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T is fitted with a hand stitched black alligator leather strap secured by a 950 platinum folding clasp. The watch wears extremely comfortably and true to its 43 mm size on a 7.25" wrist. Elegant, understated and a true marvel of horology is the Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5000T. A watch that ticks all the boxes of you like grand complications that combine the functionality of a chronograph with the convenience of a perpetual calendar.

Sticker Price $150,000 USD. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.