Baselworld 2014: Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A in Stainless Steel. Up Close and Personal Live Pictures.

Baselworld 2014 has been quite an exciting show so far. We finally bring you these up close and personal images of the new Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A in Stainless Steel. This amazing complication that features a chronograph with the Travel Time function that indicates the time in two different time zones at a single glance is fitted with the traditional Nautilus case in stainless steel measuring 40.5 mm in diameter. This new watch, combines two highly popular complications and features additional functions for enhanced everyday convenience.

Something we are quite excited about, is that during our meeting with Patek Philippe where Philip Barat —Head of Development at Patek — explained how this new model works, we were able to capture some special images of the construction and internal structure of the case that clearly shows how this complication works. In order to preserve the hinged case shape of the iconic Nautilus without compromising aesthetics, Patek added two pushers —one to advance the independent travel time hand and the other to back it— on the left side of the case to make sure that the travel time functionality wouldn't alter the overall look of the watch.

Additionally, Patek Philippe added a date corrector located at the 1 o'clock position near the top right lug in a very discreet way, but with the end user in mind in order to ease the date setting operation.

As you can see in these images the dial has very interesting color variations depending on the lighting conditions. The dial fitted on this new Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph features a date indicator at 12, a 60-minute chronograph at 6, Local and Home Time apertures with day/night indicator at 9 and 3 o'clock respectively and perfectly contrasting white hands and white fonts.

Regarding the pushers these flow seamlessly with the hinged shaped of the case and perfectly positioned for ease of use.

This new model Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A is powered by the Patek Philippe automatic calibre CH 28-520 C FUS composed of 370 parts, 34 jewels, Gyromax balance and which provides a power reserve of 55 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. The calibre is beautifully finished with the classical Patek touches and fully visible via the display case back.

On the wrist, the watch wears true to its size and with superlative wrist presence. World travelers be prepared to add this exceptional timepiece to your collections as we are confident that you will enjoy having this new Nautilus on your wrists. The classical dial configuration along with its color, makes for an easy to match watch to practically any outfit. We have added several wrist shots so that you can appreciate the color variations of the dial, depending on the angle and how the light hits its surface. Enjoy these live pictures!

Sticker Price Close to $60,000 USD pending final confirmation. For more info on Patek Philippe click here.

Posted on March 29, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Patek Philippe and tagged Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5990/1A Patek Philippe Calibre CH 28-520 C FUS 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Presenting the Breva Genève Génie 02 Air. Now in a Black Titanium Case with Flight Levels.

Back in February, we brought you the news on the new Breva Génie 02 Terre with a full review with live pictures here. This time, we are presenting you the new addition to the Génie 02 family, the new Baselworld 2014 Breva Génie 02 Air which combines the stunning sophistication of a beautifully crafted mechanical timepiece with the practicality of a fully functional, high-performance altimeter with flight levels. Whether your passion is paragliding, flying, skydiving, hang gliding, mountain climbing, skiing, or simply enjoying the fresh air and stunning views that high altitudes offer, the Génie 02 Air is the perfect companion. The black titanium case of the Génie 02 Air offers a subtle but stunning backdrop to the high-legibility hands and markers, ensuring that essential information, i.e. time and altitude, is easily visible at a glance.

The dial side of the timepiece is dominated by a sub-dial at 8 o'clock displaying hours and minutes, and the precision altimeter sub-dial at 2 o'clock displaying meters or feet. Arching around the top of the dial is the large-scale altitude indicator, which displays up to 5,000 meters or 16,400 feet, with small seconds below. At 4 o'clock, an indicator is revealed when the air valve is open or closed —it must be open to indicate the altitude.

Below that indicator, there is a 65-hour power reserve indicator. In pride of place at the bottom of the dial is one of two aneroid capsules measuring air pressure —from which the altitude is derived—, with a high-precision arm multiplying by 200 the expansion and contraction of the capsules and relaying the air pressure to the two altitude indications.

Three chevron-engraved crowns wind, set, adjust, and operate the functions of the Génie 02:

1. 9 o'clock: a two-position crown both winds the movement and sets the time.

2. 2 o'clock: a screw down crown rotates both the altitude's precision-scale and large-scale to adjust for variations in air pressure, which affects altitude readings.

3. 4 o'clock: a screw down crown either seals air out of the movement or allows it in —for altitude function. Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture and humidity from air before it enters the movement. Just above the crown, a red band on the dial marked “SEALED” warns when the valve is unlocked.

A pilot must recalibrate the altimeter according to local air pressure at sea level, in order to take into account natural variations of pressure over time due to weather and temperature. If altimeters are not calibrated before flight, two aircraft could be flying at the same altitude even though their altimeters indicate that they are at different altitudes. To ensure aeronautic safety, planes and air traffic controllers use flight levels, which is a nominal pressure altitude in feet divided by 100 and always divisible by 500 —so always ending in 0 or 5—, rather than actual height above sea level. For example, 33,000 feet is referred to as "flight level 330”.

Actual altitudes above ground are not as important for flight safety as the difference in altitudes between planes. This difference can be determined from the air pressure at each craft, and does not require knowledge of the local air pressure on the ground. Flight levels solve this problem by defining altitudes based on a standardized air pressure at sea level. All aircraft operating on flight levels calibrate to this setting regardless of the actual sea level pressure. A second advantage of flying at a consistent flight level, rather than true altitude, is that an aircraft's aerodynamic and engine performance depend on air pressure rather than its true altitude above ground or sea level. It is much easier to trim a plane to operate efficiently at a specific air pressure rather than altitude.

The superbly finished proprietary movement, much of which can be fully appreciated through the open dial and display back, was developed exclusively for Breva by award-winning movement constructor Jean-François Mojon from Chronode. The movement includes 415 components and is framed by the code names of many of the world's airports, engraved around the perimeter of the case back along with their altitudes above sea level. The final airport codes are yet to be confirmed.

The Génie 02 Air is available in a limited edition of 55 pieces in black titanium G5 with rubber strap and is available with calibrations in either meters or feet.

Sticker Price $132,000 USD. For more info on Breva click here.

Technical Specifications of the Breva Genève Génie 02 Air

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, large-scale altitude indicator, precision-scale altitude indicator, power reserve indicator, air pressure valve, equalizer seal indicator, altitude scale adjuster.

Case material: black titanium G5 measuring 44.70 mm x 16.10 mm.

Crystals: sapphire crystal and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides

Dial: grained and galvanized nickel silver indexes and numbers in three-dimensional superluminova.

Water resistance: 30 meters.

Strap and buckle: natural rubber strap with titanium tang buckle.

Movement: Proprietary movement developed exclusively for Breva by Jean-François Mojon/Chronode with 415 components, 45 jewels and a power reserve of 65 hours.

Posted on March 29, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Breva and tagged Breva Génie 02 Air Breva Genève Génie 02 Air.

Baselworld 2014: Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps MCT Sequential Two S200. Live Pictures and Pricing.

After the launch of the very successful Sequential One reviewed here, Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps is surprising us once again during Baselworld 2014 with the new Sequential Two S200 featuring MCT's signature prism display and for the first time in a round-shaped case composed of 43 components. While the Sequential Two is MCT's first model housed in a round case, it is immediately recognizable as by MCT thanks to the strong DNA running throughout the collection. Although the sequential prism hour display might be the most obvious visual clue to the Sequential Two's thoroughbred providence, the distinctive lugs are another and the case band harbors yet another MCT trademark, one more subtle but no less impressive: a sapphire crystal ring that ascetically lightens the case and quite literally lightens, as in allowing light into, the indications, complication and movement.

The top sapphire crystal is not simply placed on a bezel, but is stepped down and invisibly screwed to the case, dispensing with the bezel entirely. This may seem a simple detail, but is further proof of MCT's uncompromising approach to design. With the sides of the crystal replacing the bezel on top of the case, the timepiece appears slimmer and the transparent sides, in conjunction with the sapphire caseband ring and display back, allow light to illuminate the displays from nearly every angle.

Highly legible hours are indicated by four modules, each comprising of five triangular prisms. The current hour is highlighted by an open 'window' in a 'C-shape' arc around the center of the dial, which is relief-engraved with "Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps" —MCT.

The 'C-shape' arc rotates sequentially 90° anticlockwise to highlight the new hour, while minutes are displayed 360° around the full perimeter of the dial. The current hour is indicated by the open mouth of the 'C-shape' arc around the center of the dial, which also masks the non-current hours. The current hour displays sequentially in an anticlockwise direction.

Through the display case back one can appreciate the automatic movement calibre MCT S2 on the Sequential Two S200. The beating heart inside this new timepiece was fully developed in-house by MCT ensuring that the movement exactly met expectations in terms of design, performance, finish and quality. The 18K gold micro-rotor enables a very slim movement and case, making for a comfortable fit on the wrist —and under cuffs— as well as harmoniously pleasing case proportions measuring 44.6 mm in diameter and 14.5 mm in thickness.

While talking about gears might not get everyone excited, we can tell you that the gears in the new MCT Sequential Two S200 benefit from the latest advances in teeth profiles on them. The high efficiency gears mean less energy wasted in friction losses, higher and more consistent power to the regulator for higher precision and a longer power reserve.

The stunning black movement bridges visible through the display back offer a high contrast
backdrop to the red gold of rotor, screws and mainspring chaton. While the black movement
may appear at first glance to be 'minimalist', no fewer than 507 components and 85 jewels required in its construction bear testimony to the complexity involved. The black of the bridges and plates serves to subtlety reinforce the hand finishing of the “Côtes de Genève”, perlage and hand beveled edges. This movement provides a power reserve of 40 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800vph.

The watch available in either 18K red gold or 18K white gold —limited edition of 99 pieces for each metal— is fitted with a sapphire ring around case band, sapphire crystals with double anti-reflective coating, a double hand-stitched alligator leather strap with anti-allergy inner lining with 18K gold or titanium double-folding clasp and waterproof to a depth of 30 meters. Once again, our friends at MCT went the extra mile and above and beyond with their new horological creation.

Sticker Price Approximately $100,000 USD. For more info on Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps click here.

Posted on March 28, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, MCT and tagged MCT Sequential Two S200 MCT Calibre S2 Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps Sequential Two.

Baselworld 2014: Presenting Three New Zenith Watches. El Primero 410 Non-Limited Edition, El Primero Stratos Flyback and the Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition.

Today, we are featuring live pictures and pricing for three new Zenith watches presented at Baselworld 2014. These three new watches along with the new Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 reviewed by us here. These three new timepieces span across different collections of the brand: the Zenith El Primero 410 —non-limited edition model with silver sunray dial, the limited edition model was reviewed by us here—, the Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback —this time with the same dial configuration as the Stratos Flyback Striking 10th Tribute to Felix Baumgartner— and lastly the new Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition in stainless steel with matte white dial.

Let's start by talking about the new Zenith El Primero 410 which is now available in a non-limited edition and with a beautiful very clean sunray silvered dial. This watch, just like the El Primero 410 Limited Edition, is not only a vintage inspired timepiece with a fully integrated automatic 12-hour chronograph, but it is also fitted with an annual calendar with moon-phases. The El Primero 410 is fitted with a 42 mm highly-polished stainless steel case with satin-brushed lugs and with a thickness of 12.75 mm —not bad for such a robust calibre. This watch features the traditional El Primero pump pushers and a beautiful and solid crown with the Zenith star on relief. The case band features two correctors at 8 o'clock to adjust the moon-phase indicator and the day of the week and the overall look of the watch is sporty, yet very elegant. The beating heart inside this watch —gives its name to the watch— is the automatic El Primero calibre 410 composed of 390 parts and 31 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph.

Sticker Price $10,600 USD.

The Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback is now presented with the same dial configuration as the Stratos Flyback Striking 10th Tribute to Felix Baumgartner and available with a stainless steel bracelet or a black rubber strap. The generous stainless steel case on this watch measures 45.5 mm in diameter but wears slightly smaller. Up until now, the El Primero Stratos Flyback was only available with a blue dial, a blue bezel and blue rubber strap. This watch is fitted with the automatic column-wheel chronograph movement El Primero calibre 405 B —instead of the 4057 B in the Tribute to Felix Baumgartner model— with flyback function. This automatic calibre is composed of 331 parts, 31 jewels and it provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph.

Sticker Price $9,200 USD on bracelet and $8,500 USD on rubber strap.

Lastly, let's talk about the new Boutique Edition Captain Winsor Annual Calendar in stainless steel with matte white dial. The Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition, offers one of the most fascinating complications with a dual aperture at 3 o'clock where the month and day of the week are displayed. This new Boutique Edition is a perfect addition to the Captain collection. Up until now, this watch was only available in 18K rose gold with matte white dial or in stainless steel with a smoked, silver-toned palladium dial with blue chrono hands. The new Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition features a nice highly-polished stainless steel case measuring 42 mm in diameter and one of the most well-balanced dials with a running seconds subsidiary register at 9, a 60-minute chronograph register and date aperture at 6, and a day/month aperture at 3 o'clock. The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic El Primero calibre 4054, composed of 341 components, 29 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph.

Sticker Price $10,400 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.

Posted on March 28, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Zenith, Baselworld and tagged Zenith El Primero 410 Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Edition 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Lying face down on the lower wing of the twin-propeller aircraft named “Flyer”, Orville Wright achieved the first powered, heavier-than-air controlled flight in history, on Kitty Hawk beach. The young man covered a distance of 40 metres at a height of 60 centimeters off the ground. The date was December 17th 1903. Representing a major milestone in aviation history the year 1903 now gives its name to a timepiece created by Zenith as a tribute to the Wright brothers: Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903 ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740. A few weeks ago, we were able to review this fascinating limited edition timepiece and get some live pictures for you.

This new watch presented at Baselworld 2014, features a case made of black DLC-coated titanium that is ultra-light despite its 48 mm diameter. The ratcheted crown typical of historical aviator watches ensures a perfect grip even with pilot’s gloves.

The five-time sandblasted black dial reproduces the generous original Arabic numerals ensuring perfect readability day or night. The luminous glow of these delightfully vintage figures stems from a first “old radium” treatment covered with a more classic superluminova treatment. This ingenious combination creates a creamy shade enlivened by tiny retro accents that cannot be identically reproduced from one watch to the next. Each dial thus becomes unique and further heightens the exclusive character of the 1903-piece limited edition, of which the individual number appears on a special plate screwed to the case band, like an aircraft rivet. Just like on all other Pilot Type 20 GMT watches, the second time zone independent hand with red tip is advanced as necessary by pushing a very convenient button with fluting that is located on the case band at 10 o'clock.

The piece serves as an invitation to travel thanks to a second time-zone indicator powered by the Elite Calibre 693 movement. Finely adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif even though it remains hidden from sight, it ticks off time at the rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 50-hour power reserve. Beneath this elegant mechanical heart, the case-back, is adorned with a stamped insignia depicting Orville Wright about the “Flyer”, with his brother Wilbur running along Kitty Hawk beach to follow the feat being accomplished on December 17th 1903.

A sturdy bund type —wristband style strap first worn by German pilots in the second world war and later turned into a timeless classic by Paul Newman— strap crafted in beige suede leather sets the finishing touch to this model. Its dark brown lining features a heat-embossed motif in which connoisseurs will note the inscription “Zenith Flying Instruments” as well as the brand’s historical logo with the Le Locle Swiss Made embossing.

On the wrist, the watch wears very comfortably and slightly smaller than its actual size. The light colored bund style strap fits the look of the watch perfectly and almost matching the color of the Arabic numerals on the dial like a match made in heaven. This vintage inspired watch with its blackened DLC coated titanium case will provide unparalleled wrist presence anywhere you go in a nice limited edition of only 1903 pieces.

Sticker Price $8,600 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.

Technical Specifications of the Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740

MOVEMENT
Elite 693, automatic
Calibre: 11 ½ ‘‘‘ (Diameter: 25.6 mm)
Thickness: 3.94 mm
Components: 186
Jewels: 26
Frequency: 28,800 VpH – (4 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern

FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the center
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
24-hour second time-zone indicator

CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: Titanium case with DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating
Diameter: 48 mm
Diameter opening: 40 mm
Thickness: 15.80 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Zenith Flying Instruments logo
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Matte black
Hour-markers: SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium
Hands: Black ruthenium, satin-finished with
SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium

REFERENCE
96.2431.693/ 21.C740
Vintage-effect nubuck heat-embossed with “Zenith Flying Instruments” logo
Steel pin buckle with black DLC coating

Posted on March 28, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Zenith, Baselworld and tagged Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Zenith Elite Calibre 693 Zenith ref. ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Arnold & Son DSTB Dial Side True Beat. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Demonstrating its rich British history and quality Swiss craftsmanship, Arnold & Son unveils the limited edition DSTB —Dial Side True Beat. A tribute to the brand’s 250th anniversary, the DSTB is a testament to its heritage, vision and Haute Horlogerie ingenuity. The true beat seconds is a traditional complication of Arnold & Son, and this watch pays tribute to the watches produced by John Arnold during the second half of his career, when he and his son were the first to develop marine chronometers. Upholding that legacy, Arnold & Son’s master watchmakers thrive on creating complicated movements for exquisite timepieces. Such is the case with the DSTB watch, a truly innovative technical and architectural achievement. The newly developed automatic movement showcases the true beat seconds' mechanism entirely on the dial side. Not just the hands, but also the lever, wheels and three rose-gold treated true beat seconds bridges are located in all their beauty on the dial side. Making the watch even more alluring is the fact that the true beat seconds lever is shaped like an anchor paying homage to Arnold’s maritime achievements.

The true beat seconds are superbly indicated via a large sapphire dial that occupies the top left portion of the dial at 11 o’clock. At the 4 o’clock position, a white lacquered domed subdial indicates the hours and the minutes via blued hands. These generously proportioned, overlapping indications translate into a stunning three-dimensional dial. This restructuring of the intricate mechanism yields a concept not achieved in the watch industry heretofore.

The self-winding calibre A&S6003 has 229 components. In true Arnold & Son style, the movement features Haute Horlogerie finishing with hand-chamfered and satin-finished lever and bridges, polished edges and fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes. The visible dial plate is NAC grey treated with large circular finishing, and blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads.

The magnificent timepiece is housed inside a 43.5 mm 18-carat red gold case with anti-reflective sapphire crystal and caseback for viewing the superbly finished movement, complete with skeletonised oscillating weight. The 250th anniversary edition of the DSTB will be limited to just 50 timepieces underscoring the brand’s commitment to exclusivity and excellence.

Sticker Price $46,500 USD. For more info on Arnold & Son click here.

Technical Specifications Arnold & Son DSTB Dial Side True Beat

Dial: Dmed and white lacquered with sapphire ring indicator for True Beat seconds.

Case: 18K red gold measuring 43.5 mm in diameter.

Crystals: cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides.

Movement: Arnold & Son automatic calibre A&S6003 with 32 jewels, power reserve of 50 hours, 28,800 vph. Palladium treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing with hand-chamfered
bridges and polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, dial plate NAC grey treated with large circular finishing, circular satin-finished wheels, blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads. True beat seconds bridges 18K rose gold treated, satin-finished with hand-chamfered and polished edges and with rhodium treated oscillating weight skeletonised with brushed surfaces.

Strap: hand-stitched brown or black alligator leather

Waterproof: 30 meters.

Limited edition: 50 pieces.

Reference: 1ATAR.L01A.C120A

Posted on March 28, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, News, Arnold and Son and tagged Arnold & Son ref. 1ATAR.L01A.C120A Arnold & Son DSTB Dial Side True Beat Arnold & Son 250th Anniversary Arnold & Son Calibre A&S6003 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu. Live Pictures of a Massive 60mm Timepiece.

Today, we were able to review one of the most unique and fascinating timepieces at Baselworld 2014 thus far. We are talking about the massive 60 mm sapphire case with white gold bezel Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu. This massive timepiece with a heritage rooted in the history of aviation is literally carved out of a sapphire and white gold bezel and lugs casing housing a legendary historical movement —El Primero 5011K— that is rounded out by the beautiful 'Grand Feu' enamel dial on it and the perfectly matching black calfskin leather strap with pin buckle. The beautiful white 'Grand Feu' enamel dial features black Arabic numerals, blued hands, a power reserve indicator at 3 and subsidiary seconds register at 9 o'clock.

The Zenith calibre El Primero 5011 K is a manual wound movement composed of 134 parts and 19 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound. The highly decorated movement is fully visible via the display case back and the sapphire middle case. Perfectly grasping the nature of its exceptional mechanical pedigree implies a brief look back in time and more specifically to 1960, the year when the Manufacture produced a movement that would make its mark on history: Calibre 5011K. Beating every existing precision record in its category – Neuchâtel Observatory awarded it the title of the most precise chronometer ever presented – this mechanical movement that became a legend was to equip marine chronometers and pocket watches. A small number of original 5011K calibres, found in the archives of the Manufacture, have been updated and remarkably decorated to now find their place in several Pilot Type 20 models consistently issued in extremely limited editions. The new Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu is equipped with this historic original movement. The middle case and the transparent case-back afford ample views of this mechanical manual wound 5011K movement. Its 60 mm diameter provides scope for exceptional finishing. Entirely hand-engraved and chased by remarkable artisans, the sides and back of the movement —as well as the gold lugs and bezel— are adorned over their whole surface with intricate scrolled and garland-like motifs reflecting the spirit of traditional Fine Watchmaking. A miniature work of art displaying breathtaking finishes. Oscillating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour, Calibre 5011K also features shock-absorbers on the balance-staff and on the escapement, fine adjustment as well as a self-compensating anti-magnetic Breguet overcoil balance-spring —a set of attributes contributing to its first-rate performances while detracting nothing from its resolutely vintage spirit.

This amazing timepiece is only available in a limited edition of 10 pieces and one needs to see this watch in person to really understand how big but beautiful is this watch. On the wrist, this watch is just massive and top heavy, definitely a piece that will get a ton of attention but really not practical at all for every day way. Definitely a watch reserved for a very 'special occasion'.

Sticker Price TBC. For more info on Zenith click here.

Posted on March 27, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Zenith and tagged Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Zenith Calibre 5011K 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Girard-Perregaux Presents the Tri-Axial Tourbillon. Live Pictures and Pricing.

After taking the Grand Prix at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève with the L.M Constant Escapement, this time Girard-Perregaux once again goes the extra mile to wow everyone at Baselworld 2014 and perhaps add another Grand Prix at the end of this year with the new Tri-Axial Tourbillon. This sophisticated and horologically advanced timepiece represents a major success for Girard-Perregaux, a historic specialist in the mastery of this precision watch mechanism. This is a new step for the Manufacture in its quest for chronometric perfection with a high-speed tourbillon on three separate axes. A complex mechanism aimed at optimizing chronometric precision, the tourbillon has been a specialty of Girard-Perregaux for over a century and a half. Once again, the Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds demonstrates its mastery of the subject, taking its search for precision even further with the Tri-Axial Tourbillon.

This development embodies the quintessence of time measurement based on the physical principle of the elimination of disturbances, the first being the Earth's gravitational pull. As it is designed on three planes instead of the traditional one, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon optimizes its performance and showcases a captivating spectacle. The external parts therefore needed to be specially adapted in order to integrate this extraordinary caliber. The tourbillon's triple cage required the integration of a domed lens that rests against the sapphire crystal in order to provide the necessary interior volume. With the Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux therefore delivers a brilliant demonstration of its expertise and its constant search for watchmaking excellence.

The Tri-Axial Tourbillon by Girard-Perregaux features a regulator on three separate axes. At its heart beats a traditional tourbillon. Its cage performs one rotation in one minute. It is integrated within a structure positioned on a second axis and performs a complete rotation in 30 seconds. Finally, both are inserted into a third system. The ensemble is placed on a third axis and performs one rotation in 2 minutes. The diameter of the ensemble comes to 13.78 mm. With a total weight of 1.24 grams, the cage and the drive systems are made of steel. The support pillars are in titanium, or in pink gold to act as a counterweight where the kinetic balance required this. As for the balance, it integrates 16 pink gold adjustment micro-screws. It has an increased frequency of 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour.

Crafted from pink gold, the 48 mm diameter case respects the design codes of Girard-Perregaux's Haute Horlogerie collection with a beveled bezel, a rounded case-center and lugs that narrow out elegantly towards the exterior. The superior sapphire crystal presents a spectacular construction. At 9 o'clock, a domed sapphire crystal, designed to highlight the tourbillon's three axes, is applied to the main crystal, which is first pierced to the required diameter. A toric-shaped sapphire crystal is also integrated into the side of the case at 9 o'clock in order to show this fascinating spectacle from another angle.

The case-back, which is screwed and transparent, reveals the entire movement and, in particular, the satiny circular bridge engraved with the words "Tri-Axial" that supports the differential of the tourbillon system. A masterpiece of modern engineering, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon caliber remains absolutely faithful to the purest of traditions. The cage adopts the lyre shape that has been characteristic of Girard-Perregaux Tourbillons since the 19th century. Haute Horlogerie timepieces demand components that are decorated and finished by hand with the greatest care. They therefore present mirror-polished surfaces and perfect chamfering —especially on a number of inward angles which are particularly difficult to finish. The gear train is circular-grained and the sides are satin-brushed. On the case-back, the eagle, the symbol of the manufacture since 1897, is engraved and a plaque in the arrow shape of the Tourbillon with Three Bridges' iconic bridges bears the individual number of each piece. This shape is also found on the emblematic gold bridges also visible on the back of the movement. Displaying hours, minutes and a time reserve indicator, the new GP09300 mechanical caliber with manual winding measures 36.10 mm in diameter with a height of 16.83 mm. It comprises 317 components and has a minimum power reserve of 52 hours.

Constructed on several levels, the dial of the Tri-Axial Tourbillon presents a wide aperture at 9 o'clock that reveals the hypnotic ballet of the regulation system. At half past one, a silver dial with Clous de Paris motif presents numerals and hour markers in pink gold. It is encircled with an applique in pink gold and a black flange that displays the minutes numerals in white. The beveled, skeleton-shaped dauphine hands are crafted from pink gold. Starting at the center of the watch, the power reserve indicator follows a curve that ends at 6 o'clock. Designed graphically to form an array of circles and curves, the dial presents concentric, regular stripes in the areas that have been left empty. Like Japanese zen stone gardens, these gray-colored areas counterbalance the clear technicality of the timepiece with their understatement and simplicity. Girard-Perregaux's initials gleam in pink gold at 11 o'clock. This watch is available in a limited edition of only 10 pieces.

On the wrist, this watch is nothing but fascinating. Fitted with an elegant brown alligator strap with deployant buckle, the watch wears true to its size and quite comfortably. The wrist presence is really unparalleled, especially when you are wearing such a fine creation of 'haute horlogerie'. One thing that we do need to say is that for sure this watch will be in the final jury selection for 2014's GPHG —Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.

Sticker Price Approximately $508,000 USD. For more info on Girard-Perregaux click here.

Posted on March 26, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Girard-Perregaux and tagged Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Patek Philippe Presents Twenty-One New Timepieces Celebrating its 175th Anniversary. Live Pictures.

This year at Baselworld 2014, not only Patek Philippe unveiled a brand new redesigned pavilion to celebrate its 175th anniversary, but also surprised everyone with a very large number of new timepieces that were presented with a total of twenty-one. While not all these new watches are new references that have never been available before, they are a nice mix of new references like the 5960/1A in stainless steel with bracelet, the Nautilus 5990/1A but also the addition of new metals to old references, new dials and also fitting some of the existing references with bracelets .

New Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A in Stainless Steel with Bracelet.

Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5990/1A in Stainless Steel.

Among the Grand Complications line, there are several new timepieces. Two new models ref. 5951P, two new models ref. 5270G, the addition of a new dial to the ref. 5140R and the ref. 5140P, the ref. 5940 is now also available in white gold as it was only existing in yellow gold, the addition of a new dial to the ref. 5496P, the new ref. 5271P with diamond baguettes, the ref. 5950 now available in stainless steel with 3 new dials and also available on bracelet, a new dial on the ref. 5204P, the ref. 5078 is now also available in rose gold as it was only available in platinum, a brand new ref. 5304R, the ref. 5217 now available in platinum with diamond baguettes, a new ladies ref. 7121/1J with matching bracelet, a new dial on the Calatrava ref. 5153G and lastly a new ladies model ref. 4895R.

Now enjoy these images and pretend you came along.

For more info on Patek Philippe click here.

Posted on March 26, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Patek Philippe and tagged Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Patek Philippe 5960/1A Patek Philippe 5990/1A Patek Philippe 5153G Patek Philippe 5950 Patek Philippe 5204P Patek Philippe 5951P 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Omega Presents the Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition. Live Pictures.

To commemorate the landing on the moon of the Apollo 11 on July, 1969, Omega presented at Baselworld 2014 the Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary in a limited edition of 1,969 pieces. Recalling the colors of the moon and the Apollo 11 lunar and command modules, the limited edition timepiece features a grey fully brushed 42 mm grade-2 titanium case with a touch of 18K Omega Sedna gold on the bezel, markers and hands. Another striking element on the design of this watch is the NATO-inspired fabric strap. The watch is powered by the Omega manual-wound chronograph calibre 1861.

More pictures with a full review to follow.

For more info on Omega click here.

Posted on March 26, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Omega and tagged Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Omega Presents the New Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial. The Return of an Iconic Diver's Watch.

More than a century later the Omega Seamaster 300 comes back in an upgraded and enhanced form. The new Omega Seamaster 300 with a 41 mm case will be available in stainless steel, a platinum limited edition of 357 pieces, in grade 5 titanium, in grade 5 titanium with 18K Sedna gold, in stainless steel with 18K Sedna gold or in 18K Sedna gold.

This iconic diver's watch was originally launched in 1957 and introduced specifically for divers and professionals who worked underwater. This new model of the Omega Seamaster 300 features a black ceramic dial with a 'faux patina' vintage look on its Arabic transferred numerals —blue dial and blue bezel on the titanium models— and on the Super-LumiNova of its hands. Additionally, the watch features a smooth stainless steel bezel with Liquidmetal insert. The movement inside this watch is the new Master Co-Axial calibre 8400/8401. This new movement not only features the same accuracy, precision and reliability as all other co-axial Omega calibers, but its also anti-magnetic, resisting magnetic fields in excess of 15,000 gauss. The bracelets feature high polished center links on all different metal options.

Hopefully we will bring you additional pictures from behind the glass later this week.

Sticker Price TBC. For more info on Omega click here.

Posted on March 26, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Omega and tagged Omega Semaster 300 Master Co-Axial 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Introducing the New Rolex Milgauss Z Blue. Live Pictures of an Interesting Combination.

Perhaps the most unexpected release from Rolex this Baselworld 2014, is the new Rolex Milgauss with Green Sapphire crystal and a Z Blue dial as reference 116400GV. This new watch with what we consider to be a strange color combination but that for some reason works well, was a totally unexpected new watch.

The new Milgauss with Z Blue dial is fitted with the Rolex calibre 3131 and a robust stainless steel case measuring 40 mm in diameter.

Frankly, we are quite intrigued about how well or bad this new watch will do. Only time will tell but so far we like it a lot. Very 70s looking in our opinion. Enjoy these pictures for now.

Sticker Price TBC. For more info on Rolex click here.

Posted on March 26, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Rolex and tagged Rolex Milgauss ref. 116400GV Rolex Milgauss Z Blue Dial 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Introducing the New Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi 18K White Gold. Live Pictures of the Comeback of an Iconic Sportswatch.

Everyone was speculating whether or not Rolex would be finally releasing a Pepsi GMT Master for Baselworld 2014. All of those that couldn't believe it when a photo was leaked by RolexPassionReport on Instagram last week, didn't know what to think. Well, that picture was indeed a good teaser and an actual leak before the big day. Here it is, the new Rolex GMT Master II in 18K White Gold with cerachrom blue and red —Pepsi— bezel. A true icon comes back with what we believe will be a hefty price tag considering the current pricing strategy that Rolex has followed. One thing we need to make sure we point out is that to the naked eye the blue on the bezel is darker than it appears in these pictures.

The watch has the same specs as the previous GMT Master II with cerachrom bezel. Fitted with a 40 mm case and the automatic Rolex caliber 3186. The reference number for this new model is 116719 BLRO —Blue Rouge.

For now enjoy these images! For more info on Rolex click here.

Posted on March 26, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Rolex & Tudor and tagged New Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi 18K White Gold Baselworld 2014 Rolex ref. 116719 BLRO 2014.

Baselworld 2014: Introducing the New Tudor Heritage Black Bay Midnight Blue. Live Pictures of a Real 'Stunner' in Person.

First presented in 2012 with a red bezel insert and featured here, this fascinating watch is now released two years later with a midnight blue bezel insert and without the vintage gilded look on its dial. While the live pictures are not very flattering —last year we encountered the same issue with the lighting conditions at the Tudor pavilion—, we can tell you that this watch is a true stunner. The midnight blue color on its bezel and the optional nylon strap is really nice and darker than what pictures depict. We can't wait till we can bring you a review with pictures under natural light. For now enjoy these images.

Sticker Price TBC. For more info on Tudor click here.

Posted on March 26, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Tudor and tagged Tudor Heritage Black Bay Blue Tudor Heritage Black Bay Midnight Blue 2014.

Baselworld 2014: A Sneak Peek. Only Two Hours Away From Opening.

We are reporting live from Baselworld 2014. We have already obtained our press accreditation and we have walked around the grounds to get some images for you. We are less than two hours away from the opening of what appears to be another unforgettable edition of the most important watch and jewelry show in the world.

Here are some pictures of what everything looks like in preparation for the official opening during Media Day. We also included pictures of the Media Center so you can see where we will be spending a lot of time this week. The Media Center was definitely upgraded and relocated to a much larger area this year. Kudos to the organizers at Baselworld 2014. There's even a picture of our friends at WatchTime taking the escalators up to the media centre.

Now enjoy the images and pretend you came along.

Posted on March 26, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld and tagged Baselworld 2014.

Baselworld 2014: We Are Reporting Live from Basel. Stay Tuned for All The Updates in Just a Few Hours.

As you all know, Baselworld is the most important watch and jewelry event in the world. Last year, Baselworld drove 122,000 visitors from 100 countries, 1,460 exhibitors and 3,610 journalists. Baselworld 2014 is expected to be even bigger and drive close to 150,000 visitors this year.

If you've followed our updates across our different social media platforms, then you know we have landed safely in Zürich and we are more than ready to bring you unlimited updates as soon as Baselworld 2014 kicks-off Wednesday 26th at 12pm —Basel Time— for what is called 'Media Day'.

The Baselworld 2014 Media Conference is scheduled for 11am and afterwards, the exhibition halls will be officially open at least for the press and the media. The official opening of Baselworld 2014 for all visitors is Thursday March 27th at 8:30am.

Some of the brands that are expected to bring some big news this year include Rolex, Tudor, Omega, Patek Philippe, Zenith, TAG Heuer, Breitling, Bell & Ross and of course all the independent 'haute horlogerie' manufactures like MCT, MB&F, HYT, Breva, Romain Jerome, Christophe Claret and De Bethune amongst others.

Will we finally see the return of a Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi or perhaps, even a Rolex Tri-Compax with Moon Phase?

Will Tudor wow us with a reissue of the iconic Ranger or perhaps a new blue Black Bay?

One thing we know for sure, is that this edition of Baselworld 2014 will be very special as Patek Philippe is celebrating its 175th Anniversary.

As soon as the halls open, we will be publishing our updates. Stay tuned and those miss any of them!

Posted on March 25, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News and tagged Baselworld 2014.

Experience: MB&F's M.A.D Gallery. A Must See When You are Visiting Geneva.

Next time you are visiting Geneva, you need to make sure you stop by MB&F's M.A.D —Mechanical Art Devices— Gallery. This fascinating cozy and intimate gallery is not only the office to some of the team members from MB&F, but also an interesting place where horology and mechanical objects blend into one.

Currently, the gallery is exhibiting work mainly from four different artists including:

Xia Hang, sculptor from Beijing, China and the main source of inspiration for the new MB&F Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang reviewed here. Here are some of the sculptures we saw while we were there. The sculptures are meant to be touched and play with as a link between the artist and the visitor.

Fabian Oefner a Swiss artist is presenting his 'Hatch & Disintegrating' breathtaking photographs that we featured here back in December of 2013. The three images of the Disintegrating series are exploded views of classic sports cars that Fabian has painstakingly created by deconstructing vintage roadster scale-models, photographing each component, piece by piece in a very specific position, to create the illusion of an exploding automobile. The images show exploded views of classic sports cars: intricate scale models of an eye-wateringly beautiful Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR Uhlenhaut Coupé with gullwing doors from 1954; an iconic sleek, black Jaguar E-Type from 1961; and a curvaceous sensual Ferrari 330 P4 from 1967.

Quentin Carnaille a French architect converted into an artist to explore time’s mysteries. The young artist develops an increasingly thorough reflection around the notion of time, questioning themes like infinity or relativity with the use of mirrors, magnets and mechanical watch movement parts. He is the creator of the 'Apesanteur' and the 'Infini' sculptures. The 'Apasanteur' —which can be translated as ‘Zero Gravity’ or ‘Weightlessness’—is a sculpture fitted with a levitating disk composed of thousands of mechanical watch components and suspended in air thanks to the powerful magnetic field of a magnet hidden inside the wooden base of the sculpture. ‘Apesanteur’ is an invisible link between astronomy and mechanical watchmaking in a limited edition of 12 pieces priced at around $15,000 USD.

‘Infini’ —Infinity— is made of 16 watch sculptures also composed of thousands of vintage micro-horological components that are magnetically stuck to one another. They float in an endless picture, part light fixture, part sculpture and part mirror. There, time and infinity coexist in a stunning work. 'Infini' is available in a limited edition of 12 pieces and priced around $21,500 USD.

Lastly, Berlin-based Frank Buchwald who worked as a freelance artist and science-fiction illustrator until 1993 when he turned his attention to designing and manufacturing metallic furniture. He created all manner of metal furniture until about a decade ago when he started to focus his efforts on making lamps. It took Frank many years before he felt that the designs of his sculptural lights were moving in the right direction, and an even longer time until he could say he was completely satisfied. His work titled 'Machine Lights' is literally a combination of industrial machines and lights to create captivating light fixtures and lamps that are priced between $10,900 and $27,500 USD.

At the gallery, you will also find other interesting objects and works from artists like Japanese artist Chicara Nagata whom for the past 20 years, has been dedicating his entire energy to the creation of art pieces, most commonly known as motorcycles. His motorcycles called Chicara Art I, II, III, IV and V cost approximately $407,000 USD each and Chicara Nagata became the World Champion of Custom Bike design in the Freestyle category when he presented the Chicara Art I in 2006.

Oh and if you were wondering if any MB&F machines are on display at the gallery, the answer is yes. The M.A.D Gallery is located on Rue Verdaine 11 in Geneva, Switzerland.

For more info on MB&F's M.A.D Gallery click here.

Posted on March 23, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Travel, MB&F and tagged MB&F M.A.D Gallery Chicara Nagata Xia Hang Frank Buchwald Fabian Oefner Quentin Carnaille 2014.

Experience: Louis Vuitton Damier Graphite Porte-Documents Voyage. A True Watchlifestyler's Bag.

Many of you have noticed the Louis Vuitton Damier Graphite background on some of our pictures posted here on our website, via Twitter and on our Instagram account. Since we rarely show the whole bag, we decided to work on this post to showcase one of our most faithful companions and what we consider a true watchlifestyler's bag of choice. The Louis Vuitton Damier Graphite Porte-Documents Voyage is a perfectly sized briefcase capable of carrying a 15" laptop in conjunction with documents as big as 14" by 10" and even our Leica camera equipment fits in it. This briefcase that has been our companion along all sorts of watch reviews, pleasure travels and watch events like the SIHH —Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie—, Baselworld and the SIAR —Salón Internacional de Alta Relojería— is nothing but durable and practical. Today, after years of ownership, it still looks as good as when it came out of the store.

This distinguished briefcase measuring 16.1" wide, 12.2" tall and 4.7" deep will surprise you when you realize how much stuff you can fit in it. The briefcase features a convenient foamed laptop pocket for added protection, a zippered compartment for A4 documents, two small flap pockets where you can fit your planner or small notebook, two pen loops, interior d-ring for your keys, an exterior flat pocket on the back side, lock and a removable shoulder strap —we personally like the look of the bag without the strap as it is looks more elegant. Lastly, the added feature that Louis Vuitton doesn't tell you about, is that it makes one of the nicest backdrops for watch photography.

Now, let's share with you some of our favorite images where we have used this briefcase as the backdrop for some amazing timepieces. Indisputably, this is the most stylish way to walk around the streets and airports of the world and this briefcase is now for sure one of the staples in WatchCollectingLifestyle images.

Sticker Price $2,290 USD. For more info on Louis Vuitton click here.

Posted on March 22, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Fashion & Style and tagged Louis Vuitton Damier Graphite Porte-Documents Voyage Ferrari 360 Modena 2014.

News: John Mayer Sues Bob Maron for At Least $656,000 USD. What This Means for Vintage Watch Lovers.

On March 18, 2014, the celebrity news source TMZ broke the news that American recording artist John Mayer was suing Robert Maron a.k.a Bob Maron —renowned watch dealer to the stars with clients like Charlie Sheen— for at least $656,000 USD, claiming that some of the watches Maron sold him, were 'counterfeit' as confirmed by the Rolex Service Center.

John Mayer, besides being quite popular for his guitar playing abilities, is also well known in the watch collecting circles due to his close relationship and contributions to a well respected watch blog. John's love for watches probably started when he met Eric Clapton —also known to be an important watch collector.

No matter how much you know about watches or how close you are to the experts, you could always find yourself lost in the murky waters of the vintage watch collecting world. Especially, when it comes to vintage Rolex and Tudor timepieces. Always, always do your homework and if necessary, reach out to well renowned experts like Philipp Stahl, Stefano Mazzariol, Marcello Pisani or Pucci Papaleo.

For those of you not familiar with Robert Maron, according to his website, he has been a watch dealer since the 80s and known throughout the world for his 'expertise' in rare and vintage timepieces, especially around Patek Philippe and Rolex. Maron is a graduate of Harvard University and it was while attending UCLA Law School that he first considered taking his hobby to the next level becoming a full-time watch dealer. During this period, Maron began actively buying and selling vintage wristwatches and the extra money earned from his part-time business helped finance his law school education. Maron soon realized that his love for fine watches outweighed his desire to become a lawyer and following his graduation from law school, he chose watches over law as his full-time career. It is hard to believe that a watch dealer with such credentials could be caught up in a scandal like this.

But what does this mean for the vintage watch world and vintage watch lovers? Well, the moral of the story is that you really can't trust anybody and 'buying the seller' is no longer the safe route to go anymore.

When someone like John Mayer —a so called 'watch expert'— gets allegedly ripped off by another watch expert like Bob Maron and not even John Mayer's friends could tell that these watches were indeed 'counterfeit', it means that the vintage watch industry could be facing huge issues moving forward. If you are not any of the four expert gentlemen mentioned earlier, you should probably be more than careful when buying vintage. Not only have we seen a large number of 'counterfeit' cases, bezel inserts, dials and bracelets but also even punched papers.

While collecting vintage Rolex watches is very appealing and wearing a 'Freccione', a 'Paul Newman' or a 'Double Red Sea-Dweller' gives you a ton of street credit among other connoisseurs and heavy hitters, you are taking big risks. While there are many watch dealers that will never misrepresent watches and only sell you fully legit watches, there are others that are well known to offer what we call 'put-together' vintage watches trying to make them pass for 'original untouched safe queens' —you guys know who you are. In reality, these watches are just the sum of pristine different parts of many watches.

Oh, and don't forget those selling 'artificially aged' bezel inserts. There are a ton out there selling for thousands of dollars. Also, if you look deep enough, you'll find an Asian company selling 'counterfeit' Rolex and Tudor vintage watch parts online that we were told about by a watch dealer—we still wonder why this company has not been busted yet after so many years in the market. If, after checking that website you are still brave enough to buy another vintage Rolex, that means that you could be one of the four vintage experts mentioned earlier.

To us, the only way to buy with peace of mind, is to buy from the original owner. Here's one that we know for sure comes from the original owner.

You can find the full complaint documents here.

Posted on March 21, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News and tagged John Mayer Robert Maron Marcello Pisani Pucci Papaleo Philipp Stahl Stefano Mazzariol.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167. Perfectly Suited for the Springtime.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A-001 is the perfect sporty yet elegant watch for the Spring and Summer months. Since today is March 21st, and it's officially the Spring equinox in the northern hemisphere, we thought it would be appropriate to welcome the warmer weather with a watch that is perfectly suited for water activities and hot humid swelling wrists thanks to its rubber 'tropical' strap. Furthermore, this year Patek Philippe will be celebrating its 175th anniversary and we only wonder what Baselworld 2014 will have in store for us.

This wonderful and iconic Patek Philippe sometimes referred to as the 'perfect first Patek' or even negatively called by tasteless collectors as the 'poor man's Patek' or the 'Daewoo of Pateks' is nothing but exceptional. Frankly, every time we hear these type of comments when it comes to timepieces, we feel sorry for those making them.

The iconic Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo was originally launched in 1997 under ref. 5065A —measuring 38 mm in diameter— or in a slightly smaller size as ref. 5066 'Mid-Size' —measuring 36 mm—, as a casual Patek alternative with lines and design slightly inspired by the iconic Nautilus. The Aquanaut, is the only Patek Philippe watch fitted with a rubber strap and ready to take on all types of activities inside or outside the water.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5066. Photo by noonan from PuristSPro Collectors Market.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A-001 is fitted with a stainless steel case measuring 40 mm in diameter —2 mm larger than its predecessor— with highly polished and satin-brushed finished areas and a slightly rounded octagonal shape, the Aquanaut is a watch that comes with great proportions and a timeless design. The embossed black dial —ruthenium looking with a brownish hue— features white gold applied Arabic numerals and a white minute track.

Since its launch, the dial on the Aquanaut was meant to replicate the attractive texture of the strap; however, we feel that the current dial looks less like the strap and more like the earth globe with wedges from where it takes some of its inspiration. Frankly, we personally prefer the original dial with raised 'guilloché' square pattern and the perfectly balanced look with the '3' Arabic number next to the date aperture. Regardless, this watch is ready for those watchlifestylers seeking a more inconspicuous wrist presence without compromising quality, elegance or price value. Furthermore, the fact that we watch is fitted with a screw-down crown and waterproof to a 120 meters, makes it a perfectly suited timepiece to be worn on the beach or by the pool while sporting your Vilebrequin trunks.

The 'tropical' rubber strap takes its inspiration from the vintage 'tropic' straps from the 60s and 70s and is equipped with a very elegant double-folding clasp than when fastened showcases the iconic 'Calatrava' cross used by Patek Philippe in bass-relief. One great thing about the ref. 5167 versus its predecessor ref. 5065/5066, is that the strap is perfectly flushed against the case providing a more elegant and seamless look.

For those of you interested in world history, the 'Calatrava' cross was the emblem used by the first military order founded in Castile, Spain and confirmed as a Militia by Pope Alexander III on September 26, 1164. 'Calatrava' means "Fortress of Rabah" and is also the name of a castle in Spain recovered from the Moors in 1147. The 'Calatrava' cross was originally worn by the Order Calatrava —composed by monks that later became knights— as a red Greek cross with fleur-de-lis ends.

The strap also features the 'Calatrava' cross on its interior and its rubber composite is very supple and quite malleable. Perhaps the biggest downside to this strap, is the fact that it needs to be cut to the size of your wrist with no room for error and making it quite difficult to get the exact perfect fit. Now, if you are one of those watchlifestylers that likes to flip watches constantly and your wrist is on the smaller side, be prepared to add an additional brand new strap when selling your watch as most buyers with larger wrists won't be interested in buying from you.

The beating heart inside this Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167 is the automatic calibre 324 S C composed of 213 parts, 29 jewels, six bridges and which provides a power reserve of 45 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. One downside of this calibre is the lack of hacking seconds that prevents the wearer from an accurate time setting operation. The calibre is fully visible via the display case back and as with any other Patek a real treat for the eyes.

On the wrist, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut is quite comfortable but a watch that wears slightly smaller than its actual size. If you are a watchlifestyler that has to wear a Patek everywhere you go, then the Aquanaut is a must have in your collection. Paired with the right Vilebrequin trunks during a nice relaxing week in Saint-Tropez will show others that you know about watches and the good life.

The Aquanaut is also available as ref. 5165 measuring 38 mm in diameter, in 18K rose gold ref. 5167R, in stainless steel with matching bracelet ref. 5167/1 and in three different colors for the ladies model under ref. 5067.

Sticker Price $20,300 USD. For more info on Patek Philippe click here.

Posted on March 20, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Patek Philippe and tagged Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167 Patek Philippe Aquanaut Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5066 Calatrava Cross Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A-001 Patek Philippe Calibre 324SC 2014.