Insider: Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter. Nothing About this Timepiece is Conventional.

Since the moment Romain Jerome unveiled this surprising timepiece earlier this year, we wanted to do a hands-on review with live pictures of it. There's nothing like appreciating timepieces under natural light and writing about them after holding them and wearing them. Stock images are wonderful, but they will never convey the true essence of a timepiece like live photography under natural light.

The Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter R.J.M.TO.MO.001.01 is everything but conventional. This watch is a fresh tribute to the conquest of space, equipped with a flying tourbillon featuring a unique three-dimensional architecture. Fitted with an over-sized stainless steel case measuring 48.5 mm wide, 44.5 mm long and 20 mm thick, this Romain Jerome features DNA steel elements from the Apollo 11 space shuttle.

The massive case on this watch features very intricate details such as the screws that attach the lugs to the case, the cylinder system applied to these lugs for optimal wrist comfort and the alternating perfect satin-brushed and highly polished areas. This cylinder system looks as if Romain Jerome had installed mini shock-absorbers to the area where the lugs meet the case. To round out the very interesting look of this timepiece, the watch features a rubberized crown with perforations that is very unique and visually appealing.

This very unconventional watch with a rectangular shape, features an amazing texturized black dial containing 'moon dust', integrated x-shaped traverses, circular satin-brushed counters around the flying tourbillon located at 9 and around the hour/minute sub-dial with cut out Arabic numerals located at 3 o'clock. Its oxidized black and satin-brushed hands provide perfect contrast with their red lacquered accents against the dark grey texture on the dial that resembles small moon craters.

In addition to the already mesmerizing dial, the watch is equipped with a small window outside the area of the dial at 6 o'clock, where the power reserve indicator is located. The power reserve indicator features engraved 'plus and minus' signs as well as a lacquered red hand for optimum readability.

The amazing flying tourbillon can be appreciated in its full splendor via the front, the display case back but also from the side via a strategically placed sapphire crystal on the case band. As a reference, there are five sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment on this watch. One on the case band at 9, one at 12, one at 6 o'clock, one on the front and one on the display case back. The amazingly beautiful automatic Romain Jerome calibre RJ3000-A can be fully appreciated via the display case back. This calibre composed of 32 jewels beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph providing a power reserve of 42 hours. The calibre is a real treat for the eyes.

This impressive watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap with pin buckle that is very comfortable and nicely finished. We would've expected a deployant buckle on a watch like this, but still it is not a deal breaker.

This Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter is available in a limited edition of 25 pieces and as expected, even though the watch wears quite comfortably thanks to the cylinder system on the lugs, the watch wears really large and protrudes to the point where it is impossible to tuck it under the cuff of a shirt. But well, when you are wearing something as unique and impressive as this watch, why would you even consider hiding it under your cuff. Don't you think? If you have a wrist smaller than 7" we really think you might as well look elsewhere, as this watch is made for those that can handle it.

Sticker Price $115,000 USD. For more info on Romain Jerome click here.  

Posted on November 27, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Romain Jerome and tagged Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter R.J.M.TO.MO.001.01 Apollo 11.

Insider: Richard Mille RM030 Americas Limited Edition. Another Superb Creation by This Manufacture in a 30-Piece Limited Edition with Declutchable Rotor.

On August 2, 2013, we published the news about the launch of the Richard Mille RM030 Americas Limited Edition. Today, we bring you a hands-on review with live pictures of this amazing watch fitted with a declutchable rotor.

Following the success of the RM011, RM016, and RM028 limited editions created exclusively for sale in the Americas, Richard Mille created the RM030 Americas Limited Edition. The RM030 Americas Limited Edition is very different from all the other models due to its bright orange flange and its case measuring 50 mm x 42.70 mm x 13.95 mm made of carbon nanotubes —like those used on the RM27-01 or the RM052-01.

The watch features a beautiful sapphire dial with white Arabic numerals, a power reserve indicator at 9, a vertical date aperture at 7, and an On/Off Rewinding indicator at 12 o'clock right above the central pinion. As you can appreciate in these pictures —taken under natural light—, the orange accents are brighter than what the stock images depict and way more appealing.

The beating heart inside the RM030 Americas Limited Edition is the new calibre RMAR1, which features a rotor that declutches automatically and that provides a power reserve of 55 hours while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. When the power reserve reaches 50 hours, the rotor is declutched automatically thanks to a specially developed gear system. As a result, the rotor is disengaged from winding the barrel. Conversely, when the power reserve decreases to 40 hours, the rotor is automatically clutched and the watch starts the winding phase until the indicator reaches 50 hours. It is possible to check these phases thanks to the rewinding indicator located at 12 o’clock that points to the 'On' position when the rotor is operating in winding phase and 'Off' when it is disengaged.

The calibre fully visible via the display case back, features an orange insert on its rotor that along with the flange and crown also in orange, creates an exceptional palette of colors and the ideal contrasting touches.

The RM030 Americas is a limited edition of 30 pieces, available exclusively at Richard Mille boutiques and authorized Richard Mille retailers throughout North and South America. The watch is fitted with a very comfortable perforated rubber strap with double folding deployant clasp.

We don't want to sound like a broken record, but just like all the other Richard Mille watches we have reviewed, the RM030 Americas Limited Edition also feels great on the wrist. This is another exceptional creation from this manufacture that one needs to experience in person in order to fully understand the amount of work that goes into designing and crafting these watches. Well worth every single penny of its price.

Sticker Price $135,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.

Posted on November 26, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Richard Mille and tagged Richard Mille RM030 Americas Limited Edition Richard Mille Calibre RMAR1 2013.

Insider: Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk 'Mission of Mermaids' Special Edition. A Rugged and Robust Timepiece for True Divers.

This special edition Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk 'Mission of Mermaids' —MOM— ref. 49960-19-1305SFK6A was presented last September during a special event with the Rockefeller's at Cipriani in New York City. Designed in collaboration with Susan Rockefeller and named 'Mission of Mermaids' after Mrs. Rockefeller's most recent documentary —presented at Baselworld 2013—, the Sea Hawk ‘MOM’ is not a limited edition watch but a special edition one.

This rugged and robust diver's timepiece features green accents and a beautifully engraved case back. The 'Mission of Mermaids' just like the other stainless steel Sea Hawk watches, is fitted with a very robust case measuring 44mm in diameter and featuring an off-centered crown at 4 o'clock and date aperture between 1 and 2 o'clock.

The 'MOM' features a beautiful semi-gloss black honeycomb texturized dial with a recessed small seconds register with a small white mermaid at 10, applied power reserve indicator at 6 and sunken date aperture between 1 and 2 o'clock. The dial features raised round applied markers with luminous material, lime green minute track flange and slightly darker green hands for the minutes, seconds and power reserve. All hands with the exception of the seconds hand are treated with luminous material that is very bright in the dark. While most stock images depict this watch as having dark green accents, it is important to clarify that our pictures ware taken under natural light and accurately depict the real hue of green on the watch. While the dial offers unparalleled readability, we feel that the date is somewhat hard to to see.

This rugged and robust diver's watch is fitted with an uni-directional rotating bezel in stainless with rubber inlay and luminous dot at 12 o'clock. The bezel is easy to grip and rotate with or without gloves. The bezel setup sits on top of a black rubber octagonal base where it meets the case. This watch looks and feels exactly like a 'real' diver's watch should. It is so rugged, that once you put it on your wrist, you just feel eager to take it on a dive at the Great Barrier Reef. Gentleman, this is one amazing diving watch designed for its real purpose, with a depth rating of 1000m/3300ft and a helium-release valve at 9 o'clock on the case band.

The Sea Hawk Mission of Mermaids just like the other Sea Hawk watches, is fitted with a very comfortable rubber strap with deployant buckle. The strap is marked with Girard-Perregaux on the sides and the inside features an over-sized honeycomb texture. The strap length is very easy to adjust as necessary.

The 'Mission of Mermaids' is fitted with a solid case back carefully engraved with a green lacquered mermaid and the MOM motto: "Protect What is Precious". The MOM 15-minute documentary is a poetic ode to the sea, as well as a plea for its protection. In 2013, Susan and David Rockefeller established the 'Protect What is Precious' initiative to make the world a more loving, peaceful and healthy place by protecting family, art and nature. The 'Mission of Mermaids' will inspire people to reflect on the importance of preserving our environment and part of the proceeds from the sales of this watch will go to the Rockefeller's initiative. Protected by the case back the beating heart inside this watch is the automatic calibre GP03300-0074 with 27 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 46 hours while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.

To round out the look of this watch, Girard-Perregaux fitted the Sea Hawk line with an extremely thick domed sapphire crystal —unfortunately not treated with anti-reflective coating— and a very robust easy to use rubberized crown at 4 o'clock that is well protected by very thick angled crown guards.

On the wrist, this watch wears true to its size and quite comfortably considering its top heavy weight of approximately 188 grams —almost 20 grams heavier than the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver on rubber strap. The wrist presence is unparalleled and anyone wearing this watch will immediately be recognized as a diver even if he's not. At the bottom of this post you will find the trailer for the 'Mission of Mermaids' documentary.

Sticker Price $13,800 USD. For more info on Girard-Perregaux click here and for the 'Mission of Mermaids' initiative here.

Posted on November 25, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Girard-Perregaux and tagged Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk Mission of Mermaids Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk MOM Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk 'Mission of Mermaids' ref. 49960-19-1305SFK6A 2013.

News: Jaeger-LeCoultre's Two Unique Pieces Raised $790K USD at RED Auction.

Press Release

Two of the world’s foremost design pioneers, Sir Jonathan Ive, KBE, and Marc Newson, CBE, have collaborated with musician and philanthropist Bono to organize a (RED) Auction celebrating the very best of design and innovation. Proceeds from the November 23, 2013 sale at Sotheby’s New York will benefit The Global Fund to fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria. The auction featured icons of design selected by Sir Jonathan Ive and Marc Newson and works that were personally customized by the pair:

The custom Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos 561 clock with unique red accents created for the (RED) Auction and estimated at $20,000-30,000 USD resulted in $425,000 USD. 

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea watch which has been customized with a unique red dial and the (RED) logo engraved on the back of the watch, estimated at $10,000-15,000 USD, sold for $365,000 USD.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s two unique pieces raised $790,000 USD at (RED) Auction, while the auction raised $12,883,000 USD to fight against AIDS in Africa.

For more info on RED click here and on Jaeger-LeCoultre here.

Posted on November 25, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Jaeger-LeCoultre, News and tagged Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos 561 Clock Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea Red RED Foundation RED Auction Bono Sir Jonathan Ive Marc Newson 2013.

Experience: Chivas Regal 18 Pininfarina. A Partnership Between Two Perfectionists and a Great Limited Edition.

Chivas Regal 18 Pininfarina was launched earlier this year throughout the world but it is still scarcely available throughout the U.S. market. This limited edition, product of a collaboration between two perfectionists, will satisfy your luxurious palate to the fullest.

Pininfarina, the acclaimed auto designer that has worked for Ferrari, Maserati, Alfa Romeo, Lancia, Peugeot and Rolls Royce amongst other car brands and that has also dabbled into the waters of watchmaking in a special partnership with Bovet, has now decided to join forces with one of the top whiskeys in the world in order to create this special edition that gets the best from both brands and blends into a unique experience for watchlifestylers that like the finer things in life. The video below will tell you more about the essence of Pininfarina.

Click on the video only if you are of legal drinking age in your country.

In this special partnership, Paolo Trevisan —Design Manager of Pininfarina Extra— wanted to create something that represented the essence of both brands and we think he did pretty well. A perfect symbol of collaboration. Liquid shaped by air. Pininfarina’s mastery of aerodynamics, combined with the peerless whisky of Chivas Regal 18. Uniting and embodying the passions of both icons, it is the inspiration behind three limited edition expressions of their partnership. Trevisan paid a visit to Chivas' home Strathisla to meet Master Blender Colin Scott, where the two shared their vision for the exclusive Chivas 18 by Pininfarina. Here's a video that explains the design process behind this limited edition. Just fascinating and inspiring.

Click on the video only if you are of legal drinking age in your country.

This partnership is perfectly executed in three different amazing products. The first one —named Limited Edition One— is a gorgeous drop-shaped blue container lined with wood, the second one —Limited Edition Two— is a larger individually numbered drop-shaped container that contains a bottle of whisky, two drop-shaped glasses and where the top part of the container can be used as an ice bucket and lastly the third one called the 'Mascherone', which is a special order free standing wooden and aluminum sculpture display. To round out the special edition, Pininfarina also created a specially designed bottle of Chivas 18 with Pininfarina’s design notes visible on the metalized crest and the Italian company’s logo, proudly emblazoned on the capsule and neck wrap to reflect the streamlined metallic finish of a classic car.

The 'Mascherone' standing display was inspired by the original wooden frame that was used to design cars in the old days and is a sculpture where the product is properly displayed around wood and blue aluminum. The Chivas Regal 18 Mascherone by Pininfarina marks the pinnacle of their partnership. Hand assembled in Cambiano by Pininfarina, it features an oak internal structure and clad in aluminium. Mirroring the elegant precision of Pininfarina's celebrated automotive innovations, only five of this collector's pieces will be on display globally and individual pieces will be made to order on request. A light, found at the base, brings this artistic piece to life. Here's a video that talks about the beauty and story behind the 'Mascherone'.

If you are a whisky drinker and someone that enjoys life to the fullest always searching for the ultimate luxury, this limited edition won't disappoint you. Now, if you really want to go for the whole nine yards, you can place a special order for one of the 'Mascherones' and continue to live life to the fullest. One thing we know, is that the 'Mascherone' will look great inside your beautiful home at the New York by Gehry on 8 Spruce Street.

Sticker Price for Limited Edition 2 $500 USD. For more info on Chivas Regal 18 click here and for Pininfarina here.

Posted on November 24, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Food Wine & Cigars, Sybarite Guide, Audemars Piguet and tagged Chivas 18 Pininfarina Chivas Regal 18 Pininfarina Limited Edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Mascherone by Pininfarina Cambiano Cambiano Italy Paolo Trevisan Colin Scott Strathisla Scotland Paolo Pininfarina 2013.

Experience: Porsche 911 50th Anniversary Edition. Reminiscent of the Past Just Like the Tudor Heritage Black Bay On Our Wrist.

Sometimes it's all about being at the right place at the right time, just like it happened to us yesterday. As we were waiting to get our Porsche ready for the winter with its mandatory winter tires, one of the first Porsche 911 50th Anniversary Edition automobiles to arrive in the U.S. made its way into the Porsche workshop in order to get unwrapped and prepped for the showroom. Lucky enough, we were able to take plenty of pictures of this fascinating machine just for you. If you are a Porsche enthusiast just like us, then, this will be a real treat for the eyes. Interestingly enough, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay was on our wrist, which is a watch that captures the essence of the first Tudor Submariner from 1954 and was revived almost 50 years later. Just like the Tudor, this limited edition Porsche captures the essence —in so many ways— of the first 911 launched in 1963 and here it is 50 years later. Two classics, properly honored. 

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For five decades, the Porsche 911 has been the heart of the Porsche brand. Few other automobiles in the world can look back on such a long tradition and such continuity as the Porsche 911. It has been inspiring car enthusiasts the world over since its debut as the model 901 at the IAA International Automotive Show in September 1963.

Photo from Porsche.com

Today, the Porsche 911 is considered the most legendary of all sports cars and the central point of reference for all other Porsche series. Over 820,000 Porsche 911s have been built, making it the most successful sports car in the world. This year Porsche celebrates the launch of this amazing automobile with a special anniversary model based on the 911 Carrera S: like the original 911, the 911 50th Anniversary Edition is a coupé with a flat-six rear engine and rear wheel drive. One great thing about this anniversary car is that it doesn't come with 130 hp like the first 911 from 1963 but with 430 hp, capable of going from 0 to 60 mph in mere 3.8 seconds —for the PDK equipped ones. Additionally, the anniversary 911 features a wide body typically reserved for the all-wheel drive Carrera 4 models. This special edition will be limited to 1963 cars, a number that represents the year of the 911 world premiere.

In order to further excel at commemorating the first 911, this 50th Anniversary Edition features several vintage inspired details perfectly executed under their very strict modern standards. The interior features a combination of gray or black leather with fabric —Pepita Houndstooth pattern— inserts for the seats, embroidered headrests with two-tone “911 50” lettering and an instrument panel with green numerals on the gauges and white hands in a nod like on the original 911. The exterior was as carefully designed as the interior and it features the quintessential two-tone 20-inch fuchs-style wheels and a very subtle chrome trim added to the front intakes, window surrounds and even to the rear deck louvers. This beautiful car is only available in three colors: Graphite Gray —pictured here—, Black Monochrome and Geyser Gray, which is really an eggshell creamy ivory color. 

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One design feature that we love about this car, is the perfectly executed red-silver logo that has been intelligently placed in different areas of the car such as on the back in between the tail lights, on the door-sill guards, embroidered on the headrests and on the dashboard right above the glove compartment where there is an individually numbered plate for each car. As usual, Porsche continues to impress with these impeccable design touches inside and outside the car.

Lastly, unlike all other newer Porsche keys that are all black, this one features painted sides in the exact same color as the body of the car. Another amazing classy and exclusive touch for those 1,963 prospective owners of this beauty. After enjoying the unwrapping of this car, we saw it drift away just like a yacht disappears over the horizon at sea. This exclusive Porsche starts at $124,100 USD; however, the one pictured here comes with a higher Sticker Price. Now, wouldn't you want to be one of the few lucky owners of this beauty?

Sticker Price $151,895 USD. For more info on Porsche click here.  

Posted on November 22, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Automobiles, Tudor and tagged Porsche 911 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Tudor Heritage Black Bay F.A. Porsche 2013.

News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Audemars Piguet Presents the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon.

Bright, white, sleek and powerful, the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon to be presented for the first time at the SIHH —Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie— 2014 in Geneva is a watch for avant-garde collectors and connoisseurs that brooks no compromise in either technical or aesthetic terms.

Its sculpted titanium case middle  and integrated rubber strap combine with a white ceramic bezel to frame the highly architectural array of tourbillon carriage and second ‘GMT’ time-zone display inside —case and movement in perfect harmony. New for 2014, however, is the flash of pure white center-stage: an intricately machined upper bridge made of white ceramic —only possible now, thanks to Audemars Piguet’s ongoing advances in materials science.

The Concept evolution

The Royal Oak Concept was first unveiled in 2002 as an avant-garde, 30th-anniversary tribute to Audemars Piguet’s legendary octagonal Royal Oak – designed by Gérald Genta as the world’s first luxury watch in stainless steel.

The Concept’s ultra-hard Alacrite 602 case was more rounded to highlight Genta’s signature octagonal bezel and its eight hexagonal screws. The dial was left off, exposing the advanced micro-mechanics ticking within. All these revolutionary design codes have persisted throughout the Concept series, from 2008’s Royal Oak Carbon Concept Tourbillon and Chronograph – an ultra-light timepiece that was the first to combine a forged-carbon case and movement mainplate – to the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon of 2011, with ultra-light, ultra-resistant titanium case and black-ceramic octagonal bezel, push pieces and crown.

This year’s Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon features a white ceramic bezel, crown and push pieces instead of black, all heightening the contrast with the titanium case middle. However, in typical, trailblazing style, the Manufacture has now gone one step further and incorporated ceramic into the movement itself, replacing the blackened upper bridge of Calibre 2913 with white ceramic. As a result, the new Calibre 2930 is visually transformed, its dazzling, hourglass-shaped bridge further enlivened by the double symmetry of the tourbillon bridges and GMT display.

Materials know-how

White ceramic is about nine times harder than steel, meaning the manufacture of the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s bezel, push pieces, crown and especially its intricately shaped upper bridge was a complex and lengthy process.

Ceramic is an almost totally scratch-proof composite material that can be scratched only by diamonds, calling for the use of special milling-cutter machines equipped with diamond-tipped tools. Treating the roughed-out surfaces and edges to a polished or satin-brushed finish represents a daunting technical challenge, due to ceramic’s inherent resistance to abrasion. It takes around 8 hours to make the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s bezel, compared with 45 minutes if it were steel, calling upon all the savoir-faire of the watchmakers and engineers. As well as giving an exceptionally smooth final appearance, ceramic has a practical purpose, displaying extreme resistance to wear.

Similarly, the titanium used for the case middle and sapphire surround is ultra strong, comfortable to wear twice and as light as steel – advantageous for a watch of such generous 44mm proportions. Further demonstrating Audemars Piguet’s deeply entrenched knowledge of high-tech metals and materials, the inner flange circling the dial is made of lightweight aluminum, hardened by anodization.

This daring cocktail of ceramics and metals is just the latest chapter in Audemars Piguet’s ongoing quest to push the envelope when it comes to materials science —a quest that started over 40 years ago with the Manufacture’s most daring move of all, using steel in a luxury watch for the very first time.

Technical tour de force

The defining characteristic of Audemars Piguet’s Concept watches has always been the coherence of case and movement. The ultra-modern ‘engine’ is seamlessly integrated within its ultra-modern ‘chassis’, whose techy aesthetic perfectly complements and showcases the exposed micro-mechanics.

An impressive feat in its own right, the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s hand-wound Calibre 2930 features a twin barrel ensuring 10-day power reserve, tourbillon and second time-zone ‘GMT’ display.

Its timekeeping is regulated by a 3Hz (21,600vph) escapement, rotating inside a tourbillon carriage every 60 seconds, compensating for the effects of the Earth's gravity when the watch is oriented vertically for any length of time.

The tourbillon cage comprises 85 components, yet only 0.45g in weight. An experienced watchmaker spends almost three days assembling its 85 components, including two full days to install the cage, while the full workings will require over two weeks of work. Audemars Piguet is still one of the few manufactures to have mastered all the intricacies of this complication, with over 25 different movements featuring a tourbillon. Each component is beveled, polished, assembled and balanced by hand.

The GMT display provides an instant reading of the time in a second time-zone. It is adjusted using the push piece at 4 o’clock (one press adjusts the time by one hour). The indication of the second time-zone, based on 12 hours, comprises two superimposed discs, making it easy to tell the time. The first, on which the figures are inscribed, completes one turn in 12 hours. The second, just below, completes a turn in 24 hours and has 2 colored areas: a white half for daytime and a black half for night-time. This makes it easier to read the figures.

Audemars Piguet’s proprietary parallel double barrel system ensures the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon runs for as many as 10 days before it needs to be manually wound again, generating a constant force during some 237 hours of autonomy, enhancing timekeeping precision.

The energy from Calibre 2930’s two 10-day barrels is fed into the geartrain at the same time via a single pinion bridging the two. This is a far gentler means of transmitting energy than the usual system of two series-linked 5-day barrels. It also reduces pressure in the gearing, the friction in the barrels is used to offset torque variations, and it gives increased running precision, greater power reserve and enhanced reliability.

The Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon also features a selection indicator mechanism. According to the position of the winding stem, the hand positioned on the dial at 6 o’clock indicates the function selected. The H, N and R indications correspond to the three positions of the winding stem, meaning time-setting, neutral and winding respectively.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Technical Data

Movement

Calibre 2930, hand-wound manufacture
Total diameter: 35.60mm (15 ¾ lines)
Thickness: 9.90mm
Number of jewels: 29
Number of parts: 291
Power reserve: 237h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3Hz (21,600vph)
White ceramic upper bridge
Finishing: hand-finished bridges and mainplate, hand finished cut-out parts, polished angles, hand-drawn file strokes on upper surface and matt finish beneath.

Case

Titanium case
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
White ceramic bezel
Screw-locked crown and white ceramic push piece
Water-resistant to 100m

Display

Openworked
Second time-zone indicator at 3 o’clock
Crown position indicator at 6 o’clock
Tourbillon at 9 o’clock with black anodized aluminum bridge
White gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Black anodized aluminum inner bezel

Bracelet

White rubber strap with titanium AP folding clasp

Function

24-hour GMT display
Day and night indicator
Functions selection
Hours and minutes

Reference

RO 26580IO.OO.D010CA.SDT

 

Posted on November 22, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet, News, SIHH and tagged Audemars Piguet ref. 26580IO.OO.D010CA.SDT.

Insider: Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Technique in Platinum. Another Fascinating Invention Full of Intricate Details.

The exceptional Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Technique in platinum —also available in red gold or white gold— is another one of the inventions from this manufacture. This timepiece measuring 47.50mm in diameter full of intricate details and a perfect example of ultra 'haute horlogerie' is not only worthy of a detailed review, but also worthy of admiration. This is a watch where the eye is drawn from one gear to the next, enabling careful observation of each separate element.

Read more …
Posted on November 21, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Greubel Forsey and tagged Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon Technique in Platinum Greubel Forsey Calibre GF02s Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30-Degree Angle Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Technique Posts 2013 Tourbillons 2013.

News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Vacheron Constantin Presents the Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine. A 50-Piece Limited Edition.

Pure, rare, and eternal, platinum is the ultimate material in the field of Fine Watchmaking. To honor this intrinsic alliance between pure mechanical refinement and inestimably precious material, Vacheron Constantin created the Collection Excellence Platine in 2006, composed of creations issued in limited series and designed for collectors of outstanding timepieces. This year the Malte Tourbillon —introduced in pink gold in 2012— joins this exceptional collection. It is in this spirit that Vacheron Constantin offers a new interpretation of this stunning complication with the new Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine.

On a pure, uncluttered 950 platinum dial with a sandblasted finish, discreetly adorned with the inscription “Pt 950” appearing between 4 and 5 o’clock, along with white gold Roman numerals and hour-markers, the tourbillon bearing the seconds hand finds its natural place, perfectly integrated within the new refined lines of the Malte collection. Its 6 o’clock position implied subtly offsetting the axis of the hour and minute hands that thereby stand out majestically above their beating heart.

The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine comes with a curving 38 x 48.24 case in 950 platinum. Secured by a 950 platinum folding clasp, the dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap is graced with a saddle-stitched finish, hand-sewn with silk and 950 platinum threads lending an ultimate touch of perfection. This model is released in a 50-piece individually numbered edition.

Such an exceptional watch naturally deserved an equally exceptional movement. The 169-part mechanical hand-wound Calibre 2795 endows this model with an almost two-day power reserve. This tonneau-shaped movement perfectly tailored to the case is entirely developed and crafted within the Manufacture.

The tourbillon carriage, inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese cross emblem, provides a splendid showcase for the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of naturally hand-bevelled interior angles. Rounding off the tourbillon bar alone called for 12 hours of hand craftsmanship in order to meet the finishing criteria established by Vacheron Constantin. This technique, referred to in French as berçage, consists of filing the tips of the arms with perfect regularity so as to give them a conical and semi-cylindrical shape, while respecting the limits of the center and the heels. To finalize the operation, the artisans smooth it down using stones, buffs, wooden pegs and special pastes in order to achieve a perfectly polished effect.

The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine also meets the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève or Hallmark of Geneva. Instated by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva in 1886, the Hallmark is a guarantee of origin, craftsmanship, durability and expertise. This guarantee of quality no longer applies to the movement alone, but instead to the entire timepiece, thereby representing a major evolution for this independent certification that has enjoyed the longstanding support of Vacheron Constantin and has now opted to respond more fully than ever to the demands of an ever more well-informed clientele.

TECHNICAL DATA
Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine
Référence 30130/000P-9876
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Calibre 2795
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.37 x 29.30 mm (12 ’’’ ¼ x 12 ’’’ ¾)
6.10 mm thick
Approximately 45 hours power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
169 components
27 jewels
Indications Hours
Minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Case Platinum 950
38 mm x 48.24, 12.73 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial Platinum 950, sand-blasted
« Pt 950 » hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
Black painted indications
18K gold applied hour-markers
Strap Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp Folding triple-blade clasp in platinum

For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

Posted on November 20, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Vacheron Constantin, News, SIHH and tagged Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine Vacheron Constantin ref. 30130/000P-9876 Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2795 2013.

Insider: Four of Our Favorite Glashütte Original Timepieces. Four Great Examples of Saxonian Watchmaking.

This time we decided to feature four of our favorite Glashütte Original watches. These watches not only feature some of the most fascinating complications, but will also provide you with the best value for your money. Here are four exceptional examples of Saxonian watchmaking for your viewing and reading pleasure.

 

Glashütte Senator Chronometer Regulator in 18K White Gold

A 'régulateur' a.k.a. regulator, is a watch with non-coaxial hour and minute hands, which means, that the hour and minute hands do not share the central pinion position on the dial but are independently placed. On regulators, the minute hand is traditionally the most important hand and it is typically placed on the central pinion at the center of the dial. The new Senator Chronometer Regulator presented at Baselworld 2013 features a very well balanced silver-grainé dial that is not only beautiful but very easy to read. The dial features a Panorama Date aperture at 3, running seconds small dial at 6, hours small dial with Roman numerals and day/night indicator at 12 and power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock.

This exceptional timepiece in 18K white gold  —also available in 18K red gold— measuring 42mm in diameter is fitted with a gorgeous semi-matte black alligator strap with folding clasp. The beating heart inside this watch is the manual-wound Glashütte Original calibre 58-04 with 58 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 44 hours and 40 minutes when fully wound. One great thing about this calibre, is that it is fitted with three very interesting features. The first one is a day/night indicator —from 6 in the morning until 6 in the evening, the small circle in the region of the hour display is white; from 6 pm until 6 am it is black— to ease the time setting. The second feature is the now traditional second-zero-stop-mechanism that when the crown is pulled out to adjust the time, the second hand jumps to zero and remains there. Lastly, the third feature of this calibre is a minute-to-minute adjustment where once the crown is pulled out to adjust the time, the minute hand is moved from one minute marker to another for exact adjustment of the time.

Ref. 1-58-04-04-04-04 Sticker Price $33,300 USD.

 

Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL in Stainless Steel

The PanoInverse XL from Glashütte Original was the first watch from this manufacture to reveal its inner beauty by bringing an extraordinary element from the interior to the visible surface of the watch by showcasing the double swan-neck fine adjustment in full splendor against the anthracite colored plates and bridges. The individual components are treated in a galvanic bath to give them a black rhodium-plated surface, which serves to highlight clearly and effectively such characteristic features as the screw-mounted gold chatons and the double swan-neck fine adjustment with hand-engraved balance cock.

The anthracite colored plates along with the off-centered hour and minute dial, the small seconds sub-dial, the power reserve indicator and the double swan-neck fine adjustment, create a mosaic of elegance that is just extraordinaire. This exceptional timepiece is available in stainless steel or 18K red gold in a case measuring 42mm in diameter that comes fitted with a gorgeous dark grey alligator nubuck strap in the case of the stainless steel model and brown alligator nubuck for the 18K red gold version. The beating heart inside this stainless steel watch is the manual-wound Glashütte Original calibre 66-06 with 31 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 41 hours when fully wound.

Ref. 1-66-06-04-22-05 Sticker Price $12,600 USD.

 

Glashütte Original Senator Perpetual Calendar in Stainless Steel

The Glashütte Original Senator Perpetual Calendar is another one of those perpetual calendar watches that comes with a very reasonable price tag and great value for your money in a timepiece with superb craftsmanship and great pedigree. For your peace of mind, this watch will not need adjustment Until March 1, 2100, when the next secular year of the Gregorian calendar is taking place. This watch is fitted with a very elegant silver-grainé dial with Roman numerals chapter railroad ring, a day aperture at 10, a month aperture at 2, a Panorama Date at 4, a moon-phase indicator at 8 o'clock and a discreet leap year indicator that shows a red dot to indicate a leap year, followed by yellow, black and white dots for successive years. On the black dial versions, the phases of the moon are revealed by a black disk adorned with silver stars and a radiant silver moon, while the silver dial models like the one we are featuring here, comes with a silver moon on a blue disk.

This great looking watch in a stainless steel case measuring 42mm in diameter is fitted with a gorgeous black alligator strap that rounds out the elegant look of it. The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic Glashütte Original calibre 100-02 with 59 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 55 hours when fully wound. This watch is also available on stainless steel bracelet for an extra $1,100 USD.

Ref. 100-02-22-12-05 Sticker Price $22,000 USD.

 

Glashütte Original Senator Flying Tourbillon in 18K White Gold

Also presented earlier this year as one of the manufacture's novelties for Baselworld 2013, this fascinating timepiece comes equipped with a Flying Tourbillon at 6 and the distinctive panorama date at 12 o'clock. While the traditional tourbillon mechanism is designed to counter the effect of gravity on rate precision and is anchored at both the top and the bottom, the flying tourbillon —created by Alfred Helwig— features a cantilevered mechanism anchored on one side only, which led to it becoming known as a ‘flying’ tourbillon. The balance, pallet lever, and escape wheel are housed in a cantilevered carriage that turns 360 ° once a minute, thus neutralizing rate deviations of the balance due to gravity.

The matte dark grey-grainé dial along with the tourbillon, the date aperture —with white font—, the Roman numerals in a milled railroad chapter ring and the white gold 'poire' hands creates the perfect symphony in a superb timepiece that is not only elegant but a fascinating example of Saxonian watchmaking. This exceptional timepiece in 18K white gold comes with a case measuring 42mm in diameter and equipped with a gorgeous dark grey alligator nubuck strap with folding clasp. The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic Glashütte Original calibre 94-03 with 50 jewels and 2 diamond end stones. The movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound.

Ref. 1-94-03-04-04-04 Sticker Price $118,600 USD.

For more info on Glashütte Original click here.

Posted on November 19, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Glashütte Original and tagged Glashütte Original Senator Flying Tourbillon ref. 1-94-03-04-04-04 Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL ref. Ref. 1-66-06-04-22-0 Glashütte Senator Chronometer Regulator Glashütte Original Calibre 58-04 Glashütte Original ref. Ref. 1-58-04-04-04-04 Glashütte Original Calibre 66-06 Glashütte Original Senator Perpetual Calendar Glashütte Original ref. 100-02-22-12-05.

Insider: JEANRICHARD Aquascope. A Great Diver's Watch Priced Under $4K.

Photo of whale on the background by Doug Allan & Sue Flood.

If you are looking for a diver's watch that is elegant but understated at the same time, rich in history and with great craftsmanship but you can't spend more than $3,500 USD, then look no further, this JEANRICHARD Aquascope ref. 60400-11B401-11A in stainless steel is the best value for your money.

JEANRICHARD—sister company to Girard-Perregaux— takes its name from a legendary name in watchmaking, Daniel Jeanrichard. This genius pioneered the development of the watchmaking industry in the Neuchâtel mountains in the late 17th century. Daniel Jeanrichard was born in the hamlet of Les Bressels, midway between La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle. In 1681, he created his first watch, then set up his watchmaking workshop. Daniel Jeanrichard was also a major driving force behind the watchmaking industry. He was ahead of his time, demonstrating a talent for innovation. In addition to the production of watches, the region’s watchmakers are indebted to him for the invention of machines and tools, and for establishing the basis for learning the art of watchmaking itself.

This massive cushion-shaped diver's watch weighing —approximately 260 grams— more than an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver on bracelet or a robust Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean XL is fitted with a very solid vertically satin-brushed finished stainless steel case with blue PVD coating around the corners —these PVD coating makes the case appear like there's a case within another case. The case measures 44m in diameter and its satin-brushed finish is only comparable to the grain on the finish of Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks or Royal Oak Offshores. We promise we are not exaggerating.

The blue dial on this watch is also perfectly finished with a vertical satin-brushed finish to match the superb craftsmanship of the case. The dial is reminiscent of timepieces from the 70s with that same hue that varies depending on lighting conditions and the angle at which you look at it. The dial features applied rhodium-coated indexes and rhodium-coated hands both with luminescent material that glows strong and long lasting. The seconds hand features a red arrowhead tip, the minute hand is sword shaped and the hour hand is arrow shaped. The dial features a date aperture between the 4 and 5 o'clock markers with a black calendar disc. The anti-reflective coating on the crystal allows the wearer to appreciate the dial without unnecessary glares or reflections.

The bezel made of stainless steel is properly graduated with markers and minutes in dark blue that depending on the light can look slightly lighter in color. The unidirectional bezel rotates very smoothly and it is fitted with teeth that are easy to grip even when using gloves. The construction of the bezel is very solid and its design is very well balanced with a 12 o'clock marker with luminescent material. The screw-down crown was designed to perfectly match the teeth on the bezel and just like the solid case back, it is nicely engraved with JEANRICHARD's logo. This watch is waterproof rated to a depth of 300 meters or 30 Atmospheres.

The beating heart inside this watch is the JEANRICHARD automatic calibre JR60 with 26 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 38 hours when fully wound, while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. This diver's watch is fitted with a sturdy and very well crafted elegant bracelet with double-folding clasp. Unfortunately the only two downsides of this watch come from the bracelet as it does not include a diver's extension —almost unthinkable; however but we've also seen that on the Tudor Heritage Black Bay— and it is not fitted with screws for easy removal of links —surprising considering that the watch is extremely well crafted.

Regardless of the bracelet downsides, we really feel that this watch gives you great value for your money and unparalleled wrist presence. This watch wears considerably larger than 44mm —perhaps more like a 46mm watch— and the bracelet makes this watch wear very comfortably. This timepiece looks great with a casual attire or while wearing a suite. This is definitely one of the nicest diving watches in the market and so well crafted that you can almost forget you are wearing a sports watch. The Aquascope is also available on rubber strap and with grey, white or black dial.

Sticker Price $3,500 USD. For more info on JEANRICHARD click here.

Posted on November 18, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, JEANRICHARD and tagged JEANRICHARD Aquascope JEANRICHARD Aquascope ref. 60400-11B401-11A Daniel Jeanrichard Posts 2013.

News: Vacheron Constantin Presents The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2014 Year of the Horse. Only 12 Pieces Available of Each Model.

Press Release

Introducing a fresh tribute in the ongoing saga of the Métiers d’Art collection, Vacheron Constantin presents The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac —a series of captivating timepieces based on the 12-year cycle. A symbol of a lively and independent spirit, the sign of the horse will take over from the snake on February 1st 2014. To mark this occasion, the Manufacture presents two new watch creations magnificently enhanced by enameling and engraving.

Since its founding in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has excelled in the field of precious ornamental techniques and cultivates passionate ties with the artistic crafts that it has consistently promoted by nurturing the transmission of expertise from one generation to the next. This know-how provides the Geneva-based watchmaking Maison with the opportunity to highlight its fundamental values —including of course its constant quest for excellence, as well as sharing passion, passing on knowledge and openness to the world expressed through unconditional support for both native and foreign forms of artistic expression. Paper-cutting, at the crossroads of Western and Eastern cultures
China, a land with which Vacheron Constantin first began establishing a trust-based relationship from 1845 onwards, is famous for numerous discoveries including the invention of paper and also known as the initiator of the art of paper-cutting or Jianzhi. This technique appears on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list and is echoed in Scherenschnitt, the popular art of paper-cutting born in the Pays d’Enhaut region of Switzerland. Sculpted in paper according to the principles of Jianzhi, the animals of the Chinese zodiac provide a remarkable demonstration of the art of using full and empty spaces. A challenge that Vacheron Constantin has taken up and translated into the field of watchmaking thanks to the skill of its experienced artisans. Engravers and enamelers have worked alternatively on this Year of the Horse model, crafted in pink gold or platinum and limited to 12 pieces each, reserved for Vacheron Constantin Boutiques exclusively.

The leaf motif, stemming from classic Chinese iconography, is directly engraved in the gold dial. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuated reliefs creating a depth effect. The raised bamboo stalks appear to be floating over the dial. With the horse engraving, on which the details of the mane and coat measure a mere fraction of a millimeter, the artisan provides a tangible expression of the artistic vision behind this creation.

Then comes the stage of 'Grand Feu' enameling, a technique invented in Geneva and which remains the exclusive preserve of a rare breed of artisans. By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist further enhances the visual intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial. The necessity of maintaining tight control of the color and the reactions to the firing process that takes place in a kiln at around 800 to 900°C, calls for a specific way of reasoning that takes years to acquire. A final layer of enamel is then applied before a final firing operation that vitrifies the dial and lends a shiny glazed effect that gives added definition to the floral motif. The horse is delicately applied to the center of the dial, poised as if ready to gallop through the sapphire crystal and thus creating a truly striking effect.

Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection owes its superb scope for expressing the decorative arts notably to Calibre 2460 G4. In keeping with its longstanding tradition of offering a broad variety of original displays, Vacheron Constantin perpetuates the art of watchmaking by providing a hands-free display of time. It does so through four windows respectively revealing the hour, the minutes, the day and the date. The first two indications are of the dragging kind and the last two of the jumping type, and each appears through one of the four apertures arranged around the central dial motif. Beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the mechanical self-winding movement is equipped with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight adorned with a dynamic geometrical motif inspired by the shape of the Maltese Cross, the historical House emblem. All its parts are treated to exceptionally sophisticated finishing that meets the criteria laid down by the Hallmark of Geneva – one of the highest tokens of horological craftsmanship created in 1886 and recognized around the world. This requirement now applies to the entire timepiece, which is duly certified by the Hallmark of Geneva. The 2014, year of the horse model, part of the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection, is endowed with that unique touch of soul possessed by watches bearing the Hallmark of Geneva. With this exceptional collection, Vacheron Constantin intends to pursue its special ongoing dialogue with collectors and devotees of Fine Watchmaking.

For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

TECHNICAL DATA
References 86073/000P-9752 - Platinum and 86073/000R-9751 - Pink gold
Automatic In-House Vacheron Constantin Caliber 2460 G4
Movement diameter 31.00 mm (11’’’ ¼ )
Movement thickness 6.05 mm
Number of jewels 27
Frequency 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Number of components 237
Indications Hours, minutes, day of the week and date
Power reserve Approximately 40 hours
Case Platinum 950 / 18K 5N pink gold case
40 mm diameter and 12.74 mm thick
Dial 18K gold hand-engraved, coated with “Grand Feu” blue / bronze enamelling
Hand-engraved platinum 950 / 18K 5N gold Horse
Strap Dark blue / Brown Mississippiensis alligator, large square scales, hand stiched, saddle-finish
Clasp Platinum 950 / 18k 5N pink gold folding clasp
Half Maltese cross
Limited edition of 12 pieces for each model
“2014” engraved at the back of each timepiece
Note: Only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques

Posted on November 18, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Vacheron Constantin, News and tagged Vacheron Constantin ref. 86073/000P-9752 Platinum Vacheron Constantin ref. 86073/000R-9751 Pink Gold Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2013.

News: Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement L.M. Selected 2013 Grand Prix "Aiguille d'Or" at The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.

November 15, 2013 — The 13th edition of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève —Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix— was held this evening at the Grand Théatre de Genève. Fourteen prizes were awarded to timepieces across different categories and a Special Jury Prize was given to Philippe Dufour. As most people in the industry were expecting, the Grand Prix "Aiguille d'Or" Watch of the Year Prize was given to the fascinating Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement L.M. The prize was received by the CEO of the Sowind Group —Girard-Perregaux and JEANRICHARD— Mr. Michele Sofisti. Congratulations!!!!

Here's a video produced by Girard-Perregaux, showing how this fascinating timepiece works so you can further understand why this watch won the Grand Prix.

The rest of the winners of this edition of the Grand Prix are the following:

Grande Complication Prize and Public Prize - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

Men's Complications Watch Prize - Romain Gauthier Logical One

Men's Watch Prize - Voutilainen V-8R

Innovation Prize - Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon

Sports Watch Prize - Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th

Horological Revelation Prize - Ressence Type 3

Revival Prize - Tudor Heritage Black Bay

"Petite Aiguille" Prize - Habring2 Jumping Second Pilot

Jewelry Watch Prize - Chopard L'Heure du Diamant

Ladies' Complications Watch Prize - Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize - Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Brodé

Ladies' Watch Prize - DeLaneau Rondo Translucent Champagne

For more info the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève click here.

Posted on November 15, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Girard-Perregaux, GPHG and tagged Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneva GPHG 2013 A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar DeLaneau Rondo Translucent Champagne Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée Voutilainen V-8R Romain Gauthier Logical One Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon Chopard L'Heure du Diamant Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Brodé Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th Habring2 Jumping Second Pilot Ressence Type 3 Tudor Heritage Black Bay Philippe Dufour Michele Sofisti Sowind Group 2013.

Experience: Chicago's Father Time Clock at The Jewelers' Building. A Chicago Icon and a Gift by Elgin Watch Company in 1926.

Dating circa 1926, the Father Time clock situated at the Northeast corner of the iconic Jewelers' Building in Chicago —35 East Wacker Drive— is without a doubt, the most beautiful clock in the Windy City.

The Jewelers' Building is a 40-story historic landmark facing the Chicago river. The building was completed in 1926 and it was once considered the tallest building in the world located outside of New York City. The building was originally conceived for the city’s diamond merchants and fitted with a central car elevator that could lift cars as high as the 22nd floor in order to reduce the chances that its tenants would be mugged walking between their cars and their offices.

According to the Smithsonian American Art Museum's Inventories of American Painting and Sculpture database, the bronze base of the Father Time clock weighs eight tons and it was a gift presented by the Illinois based Elgin Watch Company to the Chicago Jeweler's Association.

 

The octagonal domed top of this iconic clock is topped with a five feet tall sculpture of Father Time. This character was the symbol for the Elgin Watch Company which, at the time of the building's completion in 1926, had general offices in the building. While the Father Time sculpture on the clock is somewhat different to the actual logo used by the Elgin Watch Company, it's been confirmed by historians, that the logo was indeed the inspiration for the sculpture on top of this magnificent clock.

Father Time is usually depicted as an elderly bearded man, dressed in a robe and carrying a scythe and an hourglass —which represents time's constant one-way movement. This character derives from the Grim Reaper and Chronos the Greek God of Time. It is also known that a number of copies of this winged sculpture were produced by the same unknown artist; however, nobody really knows where these could be located.

This magnificent clock is composed of four white dials —each of them approximately five feet in diameter— with black Arabic numerals, black adorned hands and black minute markers. Each dial is fitted with a bezel with fifty-six red lights and four amber lights that light up after dusk. The top of the structure where the sculpture of Father Time stands, is intricately adorned with three bald eagles —each eagle is located between the top of two dials— and at the base of the clock structure, right underneath each dial, we find the word 'Time'. The word 'Time' just like the lights on the bezel, lights up after dusk.

Next time you are walking around the streets of Chicago make sure you pay a visit to the iconic Father Time clock and make a wish. Remember "the clock of life is only wound once and nobody knows when it will stop". The estimated value of this clock remains unknown; however, to us, it is just 'priceless'.  

Lastly, enjoy a picture of the famous Jewelers' Building in its full splendor. 

 

Posted on November 15, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Travel and tagged Jewelers' Building Chicago Father Time Clock on 35 East Wacker Father Time Clock Chicago.

News: Linde Werdelin Presents the Oktopus Moon Tattoo. A 59-Piece Limited Edition in 18K Rose Gold.

Press Release

Oktopus Moon Tattoo, limited to 59 pieces worldwide is a unique state-of-the-art timepiece. “Testifying to Linde Werdelin’s commitment and skill, the latest addition to our dive series represents the most prestigious and lavish piece of our collection yet”, says visionary co-founder Jorn Werdelin.

An 18K solid rose gold case, intricately engraved with a hand drawn octopus, this masterpiece reflects the mystery and intrigue surrounding this powerful creature.
Featuring their in-house moon-phase complication, elements of the first generation Oktopus have been enriched, proving that Linde Werdelin is a company alert to the most contemporary creative offerings; continually looking to progress in terms of materials, movements and design.

Linde Werdelin’s creative mind, Morten Linde explains, ‘the marriage between modern thinking and traditional craftsmanship resonates throughout an LW timepiece. The Oktopus Moon Tattoo is the perfect balance of contemporary art, technology and innovation; transporting poetry and imagination into the world of time keeping”.
Due to the complexity of building the case, movement and dial, Linde Werdelin has challenged the ability of some of Switzerland’s finest craftsmen and succeeded in pushing the limit of what is possible, achieving such ornamental and revolutionary masterwork. Oktopus Moon Tattoo is an exclusive series of 59 pieces. The limited number signifies two moon cycles of 29.5 days each, before the moon returns to the same point on the celestial sphere. Moon phase complication is an ideal function to plan your night dives.

The engraving on the solid 18K rose gold case has been executed at different depths to create a three dimensional effect; an extremely challenging job resulting in a unique masterpiece. Linde Werdelin introduced the Oktopus series at Basel 2012 with a five-part case construction, which seals the titanium inner cylinder protecting the movement and the dial from water. Selective materials such as rose gold, ceramic and titanium have been implemented to guarantee superb anti-corrosiveness. The entire surface is subsequently treated with microbillé, followed by a gentle hand satin finish. A firm black ceramic bezel seals protects the entire case. The movement is sealed in the chamber by a titanium DLC screw in back-case featuring the iconic hand-drawn octopus. “This is the most substantial LW product launch to date”, says Morten Linde.

Oktopus Moon Tattoo takes Linde Werdelin on a further challenge since the launch of Oktopus Moon in January 2013, uniting both the in-house complication and a newly designed dial. Oktopus Moon Tattoo complication displays luminous, imaginary and hand-drawn moons-phases on its dial. Each moon is drawn and printed several times and delicately inlaid inside the pierced disk one by one. As the moon moves clockwise through its monthly cycle, more of its surface is illumined. The dial consists of multiple skeletonized layers, conveying an immediate depth to the watch. On the lower part lays the moon disk; a metallic cut out surface carrying each luminous moon.
The upper dial is skeletonized. Featuring three diamond-cut hands, it bears a beautifully engraved hand-drawn octopus in the center. All indices are deliberately luminous to enhance readability. The full moon is always indicated with a red mark visible through the lower dial. Numerals 11, 10, 9, displayed between 1 and 2 o’clock allow a more precise track of the lunar cycle.

Sticker Price CHF 42,500 ex VAT. For more info on Linde Werdelin click here.

Technical Specifications
Case:
Entirely crafted in 18K rose gold, / Hand satin finish and microbillé / Constructed with 19 components / 2.2 mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal / Screw in back case with engraved octopus drawing / screw in crown with engraved octopus symbol
Dimensions:
44mm (w) by 46mm (l) by 15mm (h)
Dial:
Multiple-layered skeletonized dial / Hands: diamond-cut hands
Movement:
In-house developed moon phase complication / Power reserve: 42 hours / Balance frequency: 28800vph, 4Hz
Water Resistance:
300m

Posted on November 15, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Linde Werdelin and tagged Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Tattoo Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Tattoo Limited 59-Pieces Morten Linde Jorn Werdelin.

News: Breguet Acquires Three Antique Watches at Christie's Auction in Geneva. Over 1.5 Million Swiss Francs Paid.

Press Release

November 13, 2013. Geneva, Switzerland—The Breguet Museum and its President, Marc A. Hayek, have acquired three exceptional Breguet watches that made their mark on Fine Watchmaking history, for a price of nearly 1.5 million Swiss Francs. Among the purchased lots, an extremely rare, highly complicated pocket watch, the Breguet No. 4691. Bought at Christie’s and Sotheby’s auctions in Geneva on Monday November 11th and Tuesday 12th respectively, these masterpieces complete the already important collection of the House.
 
Sold on July 3, 1833 to the Marquis d’Abercorn, the first watch, No. 5015 went for the price of 38,000 Swiss Francs. This pocket watch is one of the very first watches ever made by any watchmaker featuring a keyless stem winding and hour setting system. Created in 1830, this invention is the ancestor of all modern winding mechanisms, consisting of a knurled winding button to be turned from left to right until a stop was reached. Spanning three Breguet generations, from founder Abraham-Louis and his contribution to the development of the keyless winding and hour setting mechanism, to his son Antoine-Louis who perfected and commercialized it, then the latter’s son Louis-Clément who sold it only 6 weeks after taking reigns of the firm, the No. 5015 is an important witness of the work and legacy of the House of Breguet.

The second antique piece, well-known as the No. 4420 is a historically important 18K gold and silver hunter case cylinder watch. With eccentric hour and minute dials, gold Breguet hands and surmounted by the advance/retard slide, it was purchased for more than 240,000 Swiss Francs. This pocket watch was bought on October 3, 1825 by King George IV of Great Britain. Like his father, King George IV was an aficionado of fine watches and clocks and one of A.L. Breguet’s earliest clients, admirers and most loyal customers. With this acquisition the House took the exceptionally scarce opportunity to acquire one of the Breguet’s “Royal” watches.

Last but not least, the third watch is an extremely rare extra-flat half-quarter repeating pocket watch. Sold on October 13, 1831 to Lord Henry Seymour Conway, the No. 4691 is one of the most complicated watches to have been made by Breguet in such a slim case. With a thickness of 7.7 mm, this Repeater watch displays equation of time, power reserve indication, calendar and moon phase based on chronometer principles. Reflecting the constant search for innovation that has characterized Breguet’s production since the 18th century, boasting an exceptionally large number of complications for a watch of this time, this prestigious timepiece was purchased for more than one million Swiss Francs.

Montres Breguet is proud to announce the arrival of these treasures at its museums. This unique event confirms Breguet President and CEO Marc A. Hayek’s commitment to preserving the Manufacture’s historic and cultural legacy.

For more info on Breguet click here.

Posted on November 15, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Breguet, News, Christie's, Watch Auctions and tagged Marc A. Hayek Montres Breguet Breguet No. 4420 Heures et Minutes Breguet No. 4691 Breguet No. 5015 Christie's Auction Geneva 2013.

Macros: Tudor Heritage Black Bay ref. 79220R. Enough Reasons to Get One.

While the Tudor Heritage Black Bay ref. 79220R was launched last year at Baselworld 2012, it wasn't until September 12 of this year that the brand relaunched in the U.S. and the watch became readily available at very few select authorized dealers that Tudor cherry picked. While this watch has enjoyed plenty of media coverage and thorough reviews since last year, most U.S. collectors were eager to see the watch in person before buying it. For many watchlifestylers, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay was some sort of fad during 2012 and the watch has been up and down in popularity since then. This is one of those timepieces that you either hate or love and all we can say is that we've loved it since day one. Kudos to Tudor for launching this homage watch honoring the first Tudor Sub from 1954 in a perfectly sized 41mm case with a great vintage feel to it and those mesmerizing snowflake hands.

While we've seen the advertising campaign with the Tudor Heritage Black Bay almost everywhere —bus shelters, print, online— we feel that the stock images don't do fair justice to this amazing timepiece. While stock images depict the bezel insert as being bright red, is not until you see the watch in person that you realize that the bezel is really burgundy —as Tudor refers to it— or even a dark cherry in color. Here at WatchCollectingLifestyle, we like to call the color of the bezel a perfect 'Rioja' wine color.

Now, please enjoy these macro photos—under natural light— we prepared for you and get ready to go get one as soon as you're done. We really know you will once you get hypnotized by those amazing chamfers, that matte dial with pink gold imprinting, the snowflake hands and the bright glowing and long lasting luminova on its markers and hands. Available on Stainless Steel bracelet with additional black fabric strap or aged leather with additional black fabric strap.

Sticker Price $3,425 USD. For more info on Tudor Watch click here.

Posted on November 14, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Tudor and tagged Tudor Heritage Black Bay Tudor ref. 79220R 2013.

News: Zenith Unveils the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage. Entirely Hand-Finished in a 10-Piece Limited Edition.

This year, the Manufacture is pursuing its tribute to the famous navigator Christopher Columbus by introducing this heir to marine chronometers in a splendid interpretation calling upon the finest artistic crafts such as enameling, engraving and micro-painting. It thereby expresses perfect mastery of these historical skills that have been adorning Zenith creations for almost 150 years. This exceptional entirely hand-finished model issued in a 10-piece limited edition is accompanied by three major horological discoveries: a patented gravity control system; a fusée and chain transmission mechanism; and an exceptional frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour.  

A pioneering spirit, a love of challenges and a thirst for exploration: the very same passion and the same quest for uncharted horizons guided Christopher Columbus and Georges Favre-Jacot —the former when he set sail across the vast expanse of ocean to open up a westward route towards the Indies; and the latter when he founded Zenith in 1865 by inventing the very first industrial watch manufacturing company or “Manufacture”. Almost a century and a half later, the brand with the guiding star is still faithful to this pursuit of precision and innovation, as is notably illustrated by over 300 patents. The Manufacture proved this determination in 1969 by creating the legendary El Primero automatic movement, which is still the world’s most accurate series-made chronograph. Moreover, fine watchmaking is not confined to the realm of mechanisms. Confirming its tradition of refined watch exteriors, notably embodied in a number of enameled pocket watches, Zenith once again delights collectors and connoisseurs of rare models by presenting the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage —a limited edition that stands out from the rest of the line by its magnificent décor. It represented a challenge not only for the artisans, but also for the watchmakers and engineers who had to rework the movement. They occasionally pushed the boundaries of feasibility in seeking to accommodate these ornamental elements within the same 45mm diameter case in rose gold and beneath the same domed sapphire crystal —while making no compromises on precision and reliability. The result is a vivid illustration of Zenith’s creative daring and of its ability to combine a dream mechanism with exceptional decorative touches stemming from the most prestigious artistic crafts.

Technical sophistication reigns supreme on the front. On the dial side, Zenith opted to give pride of place to the horological feats incorporated in the watch, while maintaining an open architecture providing a chance to admire its three original mechanisms in action: the barrel with its fusée and chain transmission —at 10.30 and 1.30—, gyroscopic gravity control system and the high-frequency regulating organ at 6 o’clock. Yet this technical, three-dimensional appearance does not preclude considerable aesthetic sophistication, as well as the use of the finest artistic crafts that Zenith is devoted to perpetuating. The three gold subdials (hours/minutes at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, power reserve at 4 o’clock) are finely guilloché, enamelled in white and fitted with blued steel hands and screws echoing the grand watchmaking traditions. The plate has been entirely hollowed out by hand so as to leave only the Zenith logo and a flurry of stars standing out in relief; and the troughs thus created have been filled with midnight blue lacquer.

The counterweight of the gravity control system has also been enhanced with a sophisticated and poetic touch by a hand-crafted micro-painted depiction of the Southern hemisphere.

The back is an open travel invitation. The back of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage springs a big surprise with a vividly colored and lively evocation of the famous navigator’s many adventures. This authentic miniature painting was created by the finest specialists in various artistic crafts using a sophisticated system of gold appliques fixed directly on the movement. In the foreground, on either side of the mechanism reminiscent of the gimbal suspension typical of marine chronometers, one may admire the finely engraved portrait of Christopher Columbus along with a sextant, the astronomical instrument serving to calculate longitude. The background bears a reproduction of the Santa Maria, the flagship with which Columbus sailed on his first voyage in 1492. The tiny manually cut-out and micro-engraved décor depicts the vessel in abundantly rich detail, particularly in terms of the ropes and rigging.

The various sails, crafted in enamel on a cloisonné base using an engraved champlevé technique, are adorned with the famous red cross – replaced on one of them by Zenith’s famous guiding star in a nod to connoisseurs. Behind the sailboat, the going-train bridge has been chosen to represent the ocean with a background engraved with tiny waves and then coated with a layer of translucent lacquer.

In the background, the barrel bridge opens up the horizon with a micro-painted décor depicting a sky divided into day and night. In a subtle detail, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have arranged the movement structure in such a way as to reveal a small gilded gear train evoking sunrise or sunset. Integrating this décor called for a wealth of ingenuity, including finding points to which the applique elements could be fixed, while reducing the movement thickness and the spaces between the calibre and the ornamentation to an absolute minimum —less than a tenth of a millimeter beneath the sails. Entirely hand-finished by artisans gifted with great dexterity, the fabulous adornment of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage makes each watch a unique work of art and a true collector’s watch.

The quest for precision at the very heart of the movement. While Christopher Columbus pushed back the frontiers of the known world, this model named after him pushes the boundaries of time measurement by combining three mechanisms guaranteeing enhanced precision: a regulating organ with a high oscillating frequency —36,000 vibrations per hour— for dividing time into tenths of a second; a fusée and chain transmission system compensating for the inevitable variations in the force of a barrel while it is unwinding; and a patented gravity control module serving to neutralize the effects of gravity on the rate of a watch. In other words, it successfully solves the problems relating to actually wearing the watch —gravity— and to the length of time it can run independently —a drop in torque—, while simultaneously ensuring remarkable precision in time measurement —linked to the oscillation speed of the balance. These feats are achieved by an exceptional movement comprising 939 parts, including 354 for the calibre itself that in turn houses the 173 elements of the gravity control module; while the fusée and chain system comprises 585 parts. Fusée and chain transmission ensuring constant force. As a mechanical watch gradually winds down, the movement loses amplitude —corresponding to the balance-wheel’s angle of oscillation— and thus becomes less accurate. The fusée and chain transmission system serves on the contrary to keep the driving force perfectly stable throughout the full power reserve – with the helicoidal shape of the fusée compensating for the progress reduction in the force of the barrel. The majority of 16th, 17th and 18th century pocket watches were equipped with a fusée, but today very few watch manufacturers are capable of transposing and fitting this mechanism within the confines of a wristwatch. With the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage, stemming from two full years of development, Zenith has now entered this highly exclusive club. Transmission between the barrel and fusée is handled by an 18cm long chain comprising 585 parts. This highly complex construction features alternating double and intermediate links. Once assembled, it is capable of withstanding a traction force of more than 3 kilos. 

Throughout the power reserve, the mainspring transmits its energy to the fusée via a chain that wraps itself around the barrel. By adjusting the variations in tension, the fusée regulates the force that is passed on to the going train – and thence to the silicon escape-wheel fitted inside the gyroscopic carriage. While it takes more than 50 hours —the power-reserve duration— for the chain to wrap itself around the barrel, winding via the stem provides a fascinating sight. These few seconds enable the fusée and the barrel to turn in opposite directions so that the chain wraps itself back around the fusée. The shape of the fusée was dictated by the optimal force that the Zenith master-watchmakers wished to give the barrel. Its grooved conical contours as well as its dimensions are the result of lengthy and particularly complex complications performed for each of the seven construction stages. This fusée could doubtless never have been created without the full integration of all professions —notably including movement prototype making— cultivated in the Manufacture Zenith, nor without the use of sophisticated equipment. Such is indeed one of the core strengths of an integrated Manufacture. While fusée and chain transmission eliminates variations in isochronism —the equal duration of the oscillations—, the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage also cancels out another effect that is detrimental to the rate of a mechanical watch: the influence of gravity. Working on the principle that keeping the regulating organ in a horizontal position engenders the best possible balance-wheel amplitude and thus results in optimal timekeeping precision, Zenith devised and patented a revolutionary module enabling the “heart” of the movement and the escapement to remain constantly in this position. An avant-garde system brilliantly illustrating the creative daring of the Manufacture, the gravity control system is also a tribute to history, since it is inspired by the marine chronometers that Zenith used to produce, borrowing from these legendary instruments the principle of gimbal suspension introduced in the 16th century on marine compasses so that they would stay horizontal despite the pitching and rolling of the boat.

The gravity control system with its self-regulating gyroscopic mechanism serves to maintain the regulating organ in a permanently horizontal position whatever the angle of the wrist and thereby represents the ultimate evolution of the marine chronometer. The brand with the guiding star is the only watch manufacturer to master this system —duly rewarded in the “Best Complicated Watch” category at the 2011 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix— that it invented after five years of intense development.

Such an exceptional model deserved to be presented to its best advantage. The Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage comes in a precious mahogany box featuring ox bone inlays and that can also serve as a humidor with a capacity of 80 cigars. In homage to Christopher Columbus, this box is adorned with a screen-printed motif on parchment-style papyrus reproducing Waldseemüller’s planisphere (1507), the first world map to mention the name “America”.

A magnificent ocean voyage and a splendid voyage to the heart of the infinitely small: with this limited edition combining fine watchmaking and artistic crafts, Zenith is setting out to conquer fascinating new horizons, inspired as ever by a blend of daring, authenticity and pleasure.

For more info on Zenith click here. 

Technical Data

El Primero 8805, hand-wound. A unique gyroscopic mechanism that maintains the regulating organ in a perfectly horizontal position.

Calibre: 16 ½’’’ (diameter: 37 mm)

Thickness: 5.85 mm

Parts: 354

Gyroscopic carriage composed of 173 parts

Chain made of 585 parts

Jewels: 53

Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)

Over 50-hour power reserve

 

FUNCTIONS

Off-centered hours and minutes at 12 o’clock

“Gravity Control” self-regulating module at 6 o’clock

Small seconds at 9 o’clock

Power-reserve indication at 3 o’clock

Fusée and chain transmission beneath the hours/minutes dial

Case, dial and hands

18-carat rose gold

Diameter: 45 mm

Thickness: 14.80 mm/21.80 mm
(with domed sapphire crystal)

Cambered sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides, domes protecting the Christophe Colomb module

Water resistance 3 ATM

Dial: 3 enameled gold dials

Hour-markers: black lacquered

Hands: blued steel

Reference 18.2211.8805/36.C713 —Brown alligator leather strap with rose gold triple folding clasp.

Posted on November 13, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Zenith, News and tagged Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage Zenith ref. 18.2211.8805/36.C713 2013.

Experience: Twenty Exceptional Timepieces Sold at Christie's Auction in Geneva. Here's Our In-Depth Review on Them.

With over $30 Million USD —inclusive of buyer's premium— sold in watches, the Important Watches Auction held by Christie's in Geneva on November 11, 2013 was a record breaking and extremely successful auction where most timepieces were sold exceeding their estimates —even Longines watches fetched extremely high amounts. The Important Watches Auction featured 406 lots —not all sold— with 122 Patek Philippe timepieces, 107 Rolex discontinued and modern references, several modern and vintage Panerais, a unique A. Lange & Söhne in stainless steel, Audemars Piguet assorted timepieces, Breguet museum quality watches and a Dürrstein & Co. Glashütte Uhrenfabrik Union Pocket Watch amongst others.

Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, mentioned: “On November 10th and 11th, Christie's dispersed over 370 fine watches in an historical ten-hour auction marathon, which set a new record total for any series of watch sales. In the past months, we exhibited highlights in Taiwan, Japan, Hong Kong, New York, Paris, Dubai and in all locations we noticed an ever-growing appetite for high quality collector’s watches. This trend was demonstrated by a fiercer-than-ever competition generated by both experienced and new international bidders, in the room, on the telephone and online."

Now, for your viewing and reading pleasure, here are twenty amazing timepieces —not Patek Philippe— that are just exceptional and worth talking in-depth about. All hammer prices are in USD and are inclusive of the buyer's premium. All images from Christie's.com

1. Rolex "Padellone"  18K Gold Triple Calendar with Moon Phase ref. 8171 from 1962. This watch was produced in a very limited number between 1949 and 1952. With an incredibly sharp case and sharp engravings, this watch is a "safe queen" with only two owners —Father and Son— before the auction. Hammer Price $684,626.

2. Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 "Explorer" dial from 1954. The ref. 6200 is considered by most the real first Submariner. This watch not only features an amazing "Explorer" dial that includes the "Officially Certified Chronometer" writing —perhaps the only known example of this configuration— but it also features the original hands. Hammer Price $527,891. 

3.  Rolex 18K Gold Triple Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 6062 from 1952. This reference features a full calendar on top of the chronograph automatic movement. This watch was produced just for a few years in the 50s and is considered by most collectors as the most important Oyster model ever made by Rolex. Not only this watch comes with a perfectly preserved dial but the watch was also featured in John Goldberger's 100 Superlative Rolex Watches book. Hammer Price $501,769.

4.  A. Lange & Söhne Stainless Steel Double Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph with Power Reserve ref. 404.035X from 2006. This is known to be the only piece ever made of this model in Stainless Steel and included box and papers. It seems like in 2007 A. Lange & Söhne created this one single prototype featuring a stainless steel case. Hammer Price $501,769.

5. Dürrstein & Co. Glashütte Uhrenfabrik Union 18K Pink Gold Ultra Complicated Pocket Watch. This watch is fitted with an Audemars Piguet movement, openface, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split seconds chronograph, moon phases, instantaneous minute recorder, flying fifths of a second and grande and petite sonerie. Audemars Piguet was known to supply complicated ébauches to other companies during the period the watch was made.  This watch took two years to make from 1891 to 1893 and finished right on time for its presentation at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition here in Chicago —the watch comes with the entrance ticket to the fair— where it sold for 5,000 Marks, price of a Villa in Dresden at the time. Hammer Price $475,646. 

6. Rolex Stainless Steel Triple Calendar Chronograph ref. 6236 from 1958. This watch also known as the "Dato-Compax" or "Killy" included the original guarantee papers and is fitted with a two-tone silvered dial. The watch was nicknamed "Killy" as French Olympic skiing legend Jean-Claude Killy sported one of this watches. The three other "Dato-Compax" watches in the series are references 4767, 5036 and 6036.  Produced between 1958 and 1962, this is a rare example with a dial in very good condition with open 6s and 9s. Hammer Price $397,279. 

7. Rolex Stainless Steel Triple Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 6062 from 1953. This is a very rare example as stainless steel models of this reference are quite scarce and this one is in remarkable condition with sharp and crisp serial number and reference engravings between the lugs and a very well preserved original dial. Hammer Price $371,156.

8. Panerai Stainless Steel ref. 3646 "California" dial from 1940. This particular watch is one of the few examples left from the collaboration between Rolex and Panerai. Panerai Radiomir watches like this ref. 3646 were made by Rolex for Panerai and the so-called black lacquered "California" —half Arabic and half Roman numerals— dials were fitted on them. Some of these earlier Radiomir watches do not bear any Rolex markings or hallmarks. It is known, that approximately thirty of these watches ref. 3646 were intended to be presented to high ranking Navy officials during a ceremony. However, the delivery never took place and the watches were forgotten in a warehouse. Rediscovered decades later, these watches that had remained in unused condition are living testament of that era. Hammer Price $358,095.

9. Rolex Milgauss ref. 6541 with "Honeycomb" dial from 1958.  This watch with 'open' papers features the sought-after honeycomb dial, consisting of two cross aluminum layers to protect it even further against magnetic fields. This example in excellent condition, still shows the traditional Rolex chamfers on the lugs. Hammer Price $345,034.

10. Breguet No. 4420 'Montre Simple Plate à Deux Cadrans Excentriques d'Heures et Minutes' 18K Gold and Silver Hunter Case Pocket Watch. This watch was originally sold to His Majesty King George IV of Great Britain on October 3, 1825 for 2,900 Francs. The watch comes with its original red Morocco box no. 4420. According to Christie's "it is unknown when King George IV parted with his watch but it can safely be assumed that he presented it to a member of the Scottish noble family Douglas-Hamilton, most likely to his close acquaintance Alexander Douglas-Hamilton, 10th Duke of Hamilton (1767-1852), a Scottish politician, art collector and well-known dandy. According to entries in Breguet's books, watch no. 4420 was returned for a complete overhaul in 1850 by the Marquis de Douglas, furthermore mentioning "sold in 1825, never returned". In 1851, the crystal was replaced, also by order of the Marquis de Douglas. The watch was then returned to Breguet for a complete overhaul in 1860 by the Dutch de Hamilton and for a servicing in 1863 by the Duchess de Hamilton. After its servicing at Breguet in 1863, the tracks of watch no. 4420 vanish until around 1920-1921 when it reappears in the family of the celebrated inventor, scientist and watch collector Sir David Lionel Salomons (1851-1925)". Hammer Price $318,912.

11.  Panerai Marina Militare ref. 6152/1 made by Rolex in 1955. This watch ref. 6152/1 was exclusively supplied to the Italian navy with or without crown guard with locking lever and with a rounded case band opposed to the case band on the ref. 6152 that features a sharp angle on the center of it. This watch features a simple Rolex crown without crown guard, Rolex movement, 'sandwich' dial and Rolex markings on the case. Following the production of ref. 3646, Panerai requested an improved model without wire lugs and increased water-resistance, the result was ref. 6152 and ref. 6152/1 widely known as the "Luminor" —tritium luminescent material that replaced the Radiomir mix used. Early examples of ref. 6152 still feature the "Radiomir Panerai" signed dials but the majority of these watches feature cases and movements made by Rolex. Most watches supplied to the Italian Naval Forces were requested to bear the designation "Marina Militare" on the dial. Hammer Price $266,667

12. Rolex 18K Gold GMT Master ref. 6542 with Bakelite bezel, Dauphine hands and Champagne dial from 1959.  This fascinating watch all original, barely polished and with box and unsigned papers is as good as any vintage full-set gets. The untouched and unmolested champagne dial features the 'ghost' gold imprinting that is so subtle that it is only visible when holding the watch at certain angle or upon close inspection. The bakelite bezel in excellent condition and the hands with very little corrosion. Hammer Price $266,667. 

13. Bovet 18K Gold, Enamel and Pearl-set Openface Duplex Pocket Watch from 1820. This watch especially made for the Chinese market, combines Bovet's Chinese calibre movement and a finely painted enamel miniature case by enamelist Jean-François-Victor Dupont. During the turmoil of the late Manchu China, Bovet watches became increasingly popular there. Fleurier —Edouard Bovet's hometown— is the European centre for the manufacture of Chinese watches, with several brands dedicated only to that market. This watch features cloisonné, champlevé enamel  and pearl-set borders. Hammer Price $266,667.

14. Rolex 'Patent Pending' Double Red Sea-Dweller ref. 1665 with Prototype Bracelet and Mark I Dial from 1969. The ref. 1665 is a very sought-after watch and it's known that maybe about 150 of this watches were ever made. Since its helium valve had been developed and the patent had been applied, but Rolex had not received final approval the case back features the engraving in parenthesis “Patent Pending". This fantastic reference was only produced between 1969 and 1977. While most Mark I dials on this reference show that the Double Red writing has faded to a light pink or even white color, the dial on this watch is still as red as when it left Rolex. Additionally, this perfect example contains the last three digits of the serial number inside the case back along with the reference number as it should be. Lastly, this rare piece features a prototype bracelet with the Rolex crown located sideways on the clasp. Hammer Price $247,075.

15. Rolex 18K Gold GMT Master ref. 6542 with Bakelite bezel and burgundy brown nipple "Exclamation" Dial with Dauphine hands from 1958. This amazing example with very little polishing features the very desirable and ultra-rare burgundy brown so-called "exclamation" dial with gold printing. For those of you that don't know, the name comes from the luminous dot positioned right underneath the 6 o'clock hour marker making it look like an 'exclamation' symbol. After the US Atomic Energy commission asked Rolex to recall the first batch of the 6542s due to their supposed radiation risk, the dials were marked with a small dot below the six o'clock marker to note that the issue had been corrected. From the second batch on, the watches were either fitted with a dash or with the now well-known 'Swiss T<25' writing that indicated that tritium had been used but that the small amount of it presented no risk to the wearer. Hammer Price $214,422. 

16. Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 "Square Crown Guards" Retailed and Marked by Serpico & Laino from 1959.  This reference was introduced in 1959 featuring crown guards with square ends. It is known that very few of these watches were ever made with this type of crown guards and the serial numbers are in the low 478,000s. This watch fitted with a very well preserved gilt dial comes with the depth rating in silver and the retailer signature 'Serpico y Laino' —from Caracas, Venezuela— above said rating. The case back features a Serpico y Laino engraving as 'S&L ACERO'. The bezel insert features the red triangle at 12 o'clock common only in the Big Crown Submariners ref. 6538. It is very possible that this is the only example of a watch featuring these characteristics. Hammer Price $207,891.

17.  Rolex GMT Master ref. 6542 with Tropical dial, Bakelite bezel, Red Font Calendar disc and no bracelet from 1958. This amazing example comes with a bakelite bezel in very good condition, a highly "tropical" dial with matching hands, a fascinating red font calendar disc but unfortunately no bracelet —the strap does match perfectly the color of the dial. Hammer Price $188,299.

18. Panerai ref. 3646 made by Rolex in 1943. This watch is another one of those Panerai timepieces commissioned to Rolex for its manufacturing. This is one of the so-called "no name" series with blank dial, generally reserved for the German Navy's Special Forces. The watch features a sandwich dial and a smaller than usual crown. Hammer Price $108,844.                                                                  

19. Rolex Submariner ref. 6204 from 1963 . This watch features pencil hands and seconds lollipop hand, there is no depth rating on the dial and it features the bezel with no graduation on the first 15 minutes. Hammer Price $72,109. 

20. Longines Stainless Steel Monopusher Flyback Chronograph ref. 5681 from 1950. According to the Archives of Longines this watch has originally sold in Amsterdam, Holland on September 8, 1950. A watch originally designed for military purpose with a chronograph that can be start/stop/reset with just one button. It was surprising to see a Longines fetch such a high amount on money at the auction. Hammer Price $50,340.

In addition to all the fascinating timepieces we featured on this post, there were many more that commanded high amounts and that are true collector's examples of some fascinating references across an array of brands.

As you can imagine, we are already looking forward to the upcoming Christie's auctions in Hong Kong —Important Watches Auction on November 27—, London —Jewelry and Watches Auction on December 11— and New York —Important Watches Auction to be held on December 17, 2013.

For more info on Christie's click here.

Posted on November 12, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News and tagged Rolex Triple Calendar ref. 6236 Rolex Dato-Compax Killy Jean-Claude Killy Rolex ref. 4767 Rolex ref. 5036 Rolex ref. 6036 Rolex Padellone ref. 8171 Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 Explorer Dial Rolex ref. 6062 Triple Calendar with Moon Phase A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Seconds in Stainless Steel Dürrstein & Co. Glashütte Uhrenfabrik Union 18K Pink Gold Rolex ref. 6236 Rolex ref. 6062 Panerai ref. 3646 California Dial Rolex Milgauss ref. 6541 Honeycomb Dial Breguet No. 4420 Heures et Minutes King George IV of Great Britain Watch Sir David Lionel Salomons Panerai Marina Militare ref. 6152/1 Rolex Milgauss ref. 6541 Honeycomb Panerai Marina Militare ref. 6152 Rolex GMT Master ref. 6542 Gold Ghost Dial Bovet Openface Watch Rolex ref. 1665 Patent Pending Double Red Sea-Dweller Rolex ref. 6542 Exclamation Dial Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 Square Crown Guards Rolex Submariner 5512 Serpico y Laino Rolex GMT Master ref. 6542 Tropical Dial Bakelite Bezel Longines Monopusher Chrono ref. 5681 Rolex Submariner ref. 6204 Panerai ref. 3646 German Navy No Name.

Experience: Twenty Amazingly Rare Patek Philippe Timepieces Sold for More Than $12 Million Dollars at Christie's Auction in Geneva.

The Christie's Important Watches Auction held in Geneva today Monday November 11, 2013 included a total of 122 amazing Patek Philippe timepieces of which only ten didn't sell. The total dollar amount fetched by all watches sold at the auction exceeded $30 million, of which Patek Philippe made more than half of it.

For this in-depth review of what happened at the auction around the Patek Philippe timepieces, we have picked the twenty Patek Philippe watches that fetched the highest amounts —all of them above a quarter of a million dollars each— and which all combined, sum up a total amount of $12,020,680 USD. All hammer prices are in USD and are inclusive of the buyer's premium. All images from Christie's.com

1. The star of the auction and the watch that fetched the highest amount was the Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 2499 manufactured in 1951 and encased in 1957. According to the Patek Philippe archives, the watch was originally sold on December 15, 1960. This reference is one of the most legendary Patek references and features raised hard enamel printings of all elements on the dial. Hammer Price $2,160,544.  

2. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1563 with Luminous Breguet numerals, rounded pushers and screw case back from 1947 that was originally sold on June 30, 1950. Few complicated Patek Philippe references are as rare as this reference of which only three examples are known to exist. Hammer Price $1,572,789.

3. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 2499 with Cartier on the dial —probably a unique piece— from 1966 originally sold on April 29, 1968. The watch was sold with Cartier's certificate of authenticity stating that the watch was delivered to Cartier New York in 1968. Hammer Price $1,024,218.

4. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 1518 with an ultra rare two-tone dial —possibly a unique piece dial— from 1950 and originally sold on December 16, 1952. What makes this watch even more desirable is the two-tone silvered dial fitted on this watch, that has never been seen before on any other ref. 1518. The two-tone dial provides a unique visual effect depending on the lighting conditions and the angle at which the light hits the dial. Hammer Price $1,024,218.

5. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 3448 Blue dial —probably a unique piece— with raised gold markers from 1978. The watch originally  sold on November 10, 1978. The uniqueness of this watch —besides the beautiful color of its dial— comes from the fact that it is known that only four watches ref. 3448 were fitted with color dials —other than the traditional silvered— and while three feature champagne dials, it appears like this is the only one with a blue dial. Hammer Price $684,626. 

6.  Patek Philippe 18K Rose Gold Chronograph ref. 530 sold by Astrua Torino in 1941. The ref. 530 was launched in 1937 and it is one of the rarest Patek chronographs, furthermore, the Astrua ref. 530 is one of the most impressive oversized chronographs by this manufacture and it is known that this is the only ref. 530 featuring the Astrua marking on the dial. Additionally, this is the first time that it's been offered at auction and the case and dial are as sharp and original as it gets. Even the lugs still display the original satin finish pointing towards the strap. Hammer Price $658,503. 

7. Patek Philippe Calatrava 18K Pink Gold Dual Time Zone ref. 2597 with independent adjustable second time zone hand manufactured in 1963 but originally sold until January 8, 1981. This particular reference is one of the rarest Pateks ever and it was such unpopular that it was discontinued quite quickly. Interestingly enough, this watch —among other four of this same reference in pink gold— is living testament of that unpopularity as it sat unsold for 18 years after its production. This watch is also the only example to feature luminescent material on its hands. This watch was auctioned in mint unworn and unpolished condition. Hammer Price $501,769.  

8.  Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Chronograph ref. 1463 with Breguet numerals and rounded pushers manufactured in 1945 and originally sold on July 29, 1946. The Breguet numerals on this watch are ultra rare —less than twenty examples in stainless steel known to exist up to date. Described by Italian collectors as the "tasti tondi" for its rounded pushers, this watch was also featured in the book Patek Philippe Steel Watches by John Goldberger, pp. 286 - 287. Hammer Price $501,769.  

9. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 with pink dial from 1940 and originally sold on April 13, 1942. This pink gold reference is one of the rarest Pateks sold at auction and less than ten examples have sold at auction in the last 30 years —only four were fitted with pink dials. Additionally, the watch is a only two-owner watch. Hammer Price $423,401.

10. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Minute Repeater ref. 2524/1 manufactured in 1954 and sold on August 11, 1960. This watch is one of four examples that does not have a seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock and its repeater lever mechanism is activated by pushing it downwards. Hammer Price $397,279.

11. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 2497 with box and papers manufactured in 1953 and originally sold on September 8, 1956. This rare example features a sweep center seconds hand which is very uncommon for this Patek reference. Hammer Price $384,218. 

12. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 1526 with pink dial manufactured in 1948 and originally sold on October 18, 1949. It is known that of this very rare reference in 18K pink gold only a little bit over 200 watches were ever made by Patek and even fewer feature a pink dial like this one. Furthermore, this watch remains in unpolished condition. Hammer Price $345,034.  

13. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 with two-tone silvered sector dial manufactured in 1950 and subsequently originally sold on November 1, 1952. The Split Seconds Chronograph is a very rare Patek and this particular watch features a sector/aviator dial that was added after its original purchase to enhance its look even more —completely stunning in our opinion. Hammer Price $331,973.

14. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 2438/1 with box and service papers from 1954 and originally sold on June 23, 1958. This watch just like the ref. 1436 that sold for $428,406 is also a only two-owner watch. This reference is fitted with a screw case back to make it water-resistant. Hammer Price $305,850.

15. Patek Philippe Stainless Steel and 18K Pink Gold Chronograph ref. 130 with two-tone pink dial from 1947. The watch was originally sold on June 25, 1948 and its reference marks the first chronograph to be fitted with calibre 13 and in production from 1936 until 1964. This two-tone model is known to be quite rare and up to date there are only other seven pieces to be known to exist. Hammer Price $305,850. 

16. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 manufactured and sold in 1946. This watch was auctioned with an additional silvered dial that the previous owner had purchased to give the watch a more current look. Hammer Price $292,789.

17. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Minute Repeater ref. 3979 with white porcelain white dial with box and papers. The watch was originally sold on March 30, 1992. This reference was launched in 1989 to commemorate Patek Philippe's 150th anniversary, discontinued only nine years later and replaced by ref. 5078. Hammer Price $292,789. 

18. Patek Philippe Platinum Flared Sides ref. 2442 with diamond-set dial manufactured in 1949 and originally sold on February 11, 1950. This watch is powered by a rare rectangular movement with only 150 watches ever made of which only three examples of the platinum model are known to exist. Hammer Price $292,789. 

19. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Openface Keyless Lever Tourbillon Pocket Watch with Breguet numerals and Bulletin d'Observatoire manufactured in 1930, encased in 1951 and originally sold on December 21, 1951. This watch comes with a certificate from the Geneva Observatory attesting that the pocket watch participated in a timing contest in 1946 obtaining the third prize. for Hammer Price $266,667.

20. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Openface Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 658 Keyless Lever Pocket Watch with Moon Phases and box manufactured in 1931, encased in 1955 and originally sold on July 18, 1955. This watch is known to be one of only five examples of this reference. Hammer Price $253,605.

 

As expected from such an array of exceptional timepieces, the prices went up through the roof. Congratulations to all the collectors that added this amazing creations to their vaults.

For more info on Christie's click here and for Patek Philippe here.  

Posted on November 11, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Patek Philippe, News and tagged Christie's Important Watches Auction Geneva Patek Philippe ref. 2499 Patek Philippe ref. 1563 Patek Philippe ref. 1518 Patek Philippe ref. 3448 Blue Dial Patek Philippe ref. 530 Astrua Torino Patek Philippe ref. 2597 Adjustable Second Hand Dual Time Patek Philippe ref. 1463 with Breguet Numerals Patek Philippe ref. 1436 Patek Philippe ref. 2524/1 Minute Repeater Patek Philippe ref. 2497 Patek Philippe ref. 1526 Perpetual Calendar Patek Philippe ref. 2438/1 Patek Philippe ref. 130 Two-Tone Watch Patek Philippe Split Seconds Chrono ref. 1436 Patek Philippe Minute Repeater ref. 3979 Patek Philippe ref. 2442 Flared Sides Platinum Patek Philippe Calibre 13 Patek Philippe 18K Gold Openface Keyless Lever Tourbillon Pocket Watch Patek Philippe ref. 658 Pocket Watch.