Posts filed under Other Brands

Insider: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Breva Genève Génie 02 Terre. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Following the success and ground breaking technology behind the Génie 01 with barometer, Breva Genève presented the Breva Génie 02 Terre a few weeks ago during the week of the SIHH in the city of Geneva. This new watch combines the stunning sophistication of a beautifully crafted mechanical timepiece with the practicality of a fully functional, high-performance mechanical altimeter. The Génie 02 Terre is a limited edition of 55 pieces in titanium G5 and is available with either meter or feet calibrations on the altimeter.

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The superbly finished proprietary movement —with a power reserve of 65 hours—, much of which can be fully appreciated through the open dial and display case back, was developed exclusively for Breva by award-winning movement constructor Jean-François Mojon from Chronode. Génie 02 Terre is 100% Swiss-made, from inception to realization. The dial side is dominated by a sub-dial at 8 o'clock displaying hours and minutes, and the precision altimeter sub-dial at 2 o'clock displaying meters or feet. Arching around the top of the dial is the large-scale altitude indicator, which displays up to 5,000 meters —16,400 feet—, with small seconds below. At 4 o'clock, an indicator shows when the air valve is open or closed —it must be open to indicate the altitude—, below which is the 65-hour power reserve indicator. In pride of place at the bottom of the dial, the top of one of the two aneroid capsules measuring air pressure —from which the altitude is derived— is visible, with a high-precision arm multiplying by 200 times the expansion and contraction of the capsules and relaying the air pressure to the two altitude indications.

Three chevron-engraved crowns wind, set, adjust and operate the functions of Génie 02:

a. 9 o'clock: Two-position crown both winds the movement and sets the time.

b. 2 o'clock: A screw down crown rotates both the altitude's precision-scale and large-scale to adjust for variations in air pressure, which affect altitude readings.

c. 4 o'clock: Screw down crown either seals air out of the movement or allows it in —for altitude function. Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture and humidity from any air before it enters the movement. Just above the crown, a white indicator marked 'SEALED' warns when valve is locked.

Turning the Génie 02 Terre over, the complexity of the beautifully finished 415-component movement can be more fully appreciated. The movement is framed by the names of prestigious ski resorts − Aspen, Vail, Las Lenas, Gstaad, St Moritz, Zermatt, Courchevel, Cortina, Kitzbuhel, and Lech − along with their altitudes, engraved around the perimeter of the case back. When winding the movement you can see the rotation of the cap of the mainspring barrel.

On the wrist the new Breva Genève Génie 02 Terre is extremely comfortable as it is fitted with a very nice black rubber strap with pin buckle. The watch wears true to its size and very light on the wrist thanks to the lightness of the titanium used for its 44.7 mm case.

Sticker Price $132,000 USD. For more info on Breva Genève click here.

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, Other Brands, Breva and tagged Breva Genève Génie 02 Terre.

Insider: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Romain Jerome Presents the New 1969 Silicium Collection. Live Pictures of Four Fascinating New Watches with a New Case Design.

In preparation for Baselworld, Romain Jerome presents an explosive cosmic collision bringing together the intrinsic DNA of its brand with a new case design and makes two worlds collide with its new 1969 collection. Continuing its conquest of the solar system and flirting once again with the infinity of space, Romain Jerome offers a new perspective of its Moon-DNA collection by presenting four new 1969 timepieces. Introducing a retro, vintage design and a lighter 43 mm case, the new 1969 timepieces reflect a nostalgic and bygone era of thin, geometrical clean lines combined with colorful, animated dials that will transport their owners into the mystical world of outer space.

On the first version, the avant-garde Maison shines light on the dial crafted with a new component, brought to us directly from outer-space and formed within the solar nebula disk billions of years ago: the Meteorite. Often referred to as “The crust of other worlds”, the meteorite is the most solid layer of any extraterrestrial rock found on earth. Romain Jerome has chosen a type of meteorite much rarer than platinum or gold: Chondrites —this type of meteorite can be differentiated from iron meteorites due to its low iron and nickel content. This 1969 Meteorite satin-finished steel timepiece is tinted with man’s dreams of the great unknown as most Meteorites, which have impacted the earth, are thought to have originated from the Asteroid belt between Jupiter and Mars.

Always using innovative materials, Romain Jerome has also found inspiration in Mother Earth’s treasures for the dials of three other 1969 timepieces. Commonly referred to as “Si” in the periodic table, the brand has used silicon on the dials of the 1969 models. Silicon, a.k.a Silicium represents 90% of the Earth’s crust and is commonly used, once highly purified, as a semiconductor in most electronics today as well as in manufactured movements. The 1969 Silicium line, presented in blue, grey and brown, this natural translucent and very fragile element is colored using a special PVD process giving the colors a textured finish highlighting each bold detail of this natural element. Echoing the 1969 Heavy Metal Meteorite, the blue and grey Silicon dials are also perfectly fitted in a satin-finished steel cases —1969 Heavy Metal Blue Silicium and 1969 Heavy Metal Grey Silicium— whereas the infinity of space is featured with a brown dial integrated into a black PVD-coated steel case and bezel on the 1969 Black Metal Brown Silicium.

The small seconds counter applied at 9 o’clock onto every 1969 dial replicates, the visor used by the astronauts to guide the LEM safely onto the surface of the moon. The crown holds, on its extremity, prints left on the moon by the landing pads of the lunar module. Furthermore the markers and the skeletonized hour, minute and second hand’s tips have been enhanced with superluminova, emitting an electric blue luminescence in the dark.

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Other interesting details are the paws that secure the bezel and represent the emblematic X shape featured on all Romain Jerome timepieces. The case backs are textured with a grainy stellar pattern and decorated with a medallion made from RJ’s Moon SilverRJ —a silver alloy developed by Romain Jerome with an extremely low oxidation rate incorporating moon dust interacting on an infra-molecular level with the wearer of the watch creating a cosmic patina with time reproducing the lunar surface. The beating heart inside these new timepieces is the Romain Jerome automatic calibre RJ003-A fitted with 30 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 40 hours while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. Lastly, all four watches are waterproof to a depth of 30 meters.

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By using cutting edge materials Romain Jerome highlights its recognizable design codes. The new case size and use of cosmic elements reflect the brands commitment to the conquest of space and to its continuous homage to contemporary legends. The new 1969 is a cosmic collision between man’s dream of other worlds and true watchmaking precision. All four watches are fitted with black alligator straps with pin buckle. While the three stainless steel models are available in a limited edition of 99 pieces each, the Black PVD model is available in a limited edition of only 25 pieces.

Sticker Price $10,500 USD for Silicium Colored dial models. $11,500 USD for Meteorite dial model. For more info on Romain Jerome click here.

Reference Information

1969 Black Metal Brown Silicium ref. RJ.M.AU.020.06, Silicium with brown PVD finish dial and PVD case.

1969 Heavy Metal Blue Silicium ref. RJ.M.AU.020.02, Silicium with blue PVD finish dial.

1969 Heavy Metal Grey Silicium ref. RJ.M.AU.020.05, Silicium with grey PVD finish dial.

1969 Heavy Metal Meteorite ref. RJ.M.AU.020.03, Meteorite dial.

Posted on February 6, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Romain Jerome and tagged Romain Jerome 1969 Romain Jerome ref. RJ.M.AU.020.02 Romain Jerome ref. RJ.M.AU.020.05 Romain Jerome ref. RJ.M.AU.020.03 Romain Jerome ref. RJ.M.AU.020.06 Romain Jerome 1969 Heavy Metal Blue Silicium Romain Jerome 1969 Heavy Metal Grey Silicium Romain Jerome 1969 Heavy Metal Meteorite Romain Jerome 1969 Black Metal Brown Silicium.

SIHH 2014: Van Cleef & Arpels Presents the Pierre Arpels Heure d'ici & Heure d'ailleurs. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Created in 1949, the Pierre Arpels watch has epitomized Van Cleef & Arpels’ vision of masculinity. A perfect blend of sophistication and understatement, it is notable for an exceptionally thin case held by two unobtrusive central strap attachments. In 2012, the Maison reinterpreted this icon of watchmaking and has since enriched the collection with new models that reflect Pierre Arpels’ way of life. An aesthete, designer and businessman, Estelle Arpels’ nephew was also a socialite and a traveler: two facets to which Van Cleef & Arpels pays homage at the SIHH 2014 with this new timepiece the Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs in an 18K white gold case measuring 42 mm in diameter. With this new Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs timepiece, the Maison presents an understated and poetic interpretation of travel —the way that Pierre Arpels appreciated it.

For the first time, the Pierre Arpels collection welcomes a dual time complicated watch, reflecting Van Cleef & Arpels Poetry of Time. Developed in partnership with Agenhor —Atelier Genevois d’Horlogerie—, this exclusive automatic movement is distinguished by its double jumping hour and minute retrograde display on a beautiful white lacquer dial with 'piqué' motif on the center. The hour that acts as the reference —displayed in the aperture at the top of the dial— and the hour of the second time zone that appears in the lower aperture both jump at the same time, thanks to a single sector that synchronizes the two hour discs and the retrograde minute hand. When the latter reaches 60 minutes on the graduated scale, it returns to its starting position at the same instant that the hour display changes.

In order to maintain the thinness of the case —a distinguishing feature of the Pierre Arpels collection— the automatic movement is equipped with a platinum micro-rotor that takes up remarkably little space. By oscillating in two directions, it can supply energy continuously. The movement, which is visible through the display case back, is adorned with a snailed pattern on the bridges, the Van Cleef & Arpels hallmark and a blue lacquered design on the micro-rotor that echoes the 'piqué' motif on the dial.

The watch is fitted with a super glossy black alligator strap with pin buckle. The strap is very comfortable and nicely finished to match the exceptional look of this new timepiece.

On the wrist, the watch wears true to its size and with a very thin profile. The understated elegance of this timepiece is remarkable and the wrist presence incomparable. The Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs is definitely a timepiece that embraces the principles of this Maison and a perfect example of 'haute horlogerie'.

Sticker Price $41,000 USD. For more info on Van Cleef & Arpels click here.

Posted on February 5, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under SIHH, Van Cleef & Arpels, Other Brands and tagged Pierre Arpels VC&A Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs. Atelier Genevois d’Horlogerie 2014.

Our Best Wishes: Happy Chinese New Year. Seven Fascinating Watches Celebrating the Year of the Horse.

Today, with the first new moon of the calendar year, the Lunar Chinese New Year will begin its 15-day celebration. A 12-year-cycle of animals make up the Chinese zodiac and these interact with the five elements: wood, metal, fire, water, earth. 2014 is the year of the wood horse, taking over from the year of the water snake. In order to commemorate and celebrate the Year of the Horse, several manufactures have released limited edition timepieces. For this occasion, we have picked seven fascinating watches that take the center stage today as the Year of the Horse gets kicked-off.

Let's start with the Vacheron Constantin The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2014 Year of the Horse crafted in 18K pink gold or platinum and limited to 12 pieces each, that will only be sold at the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques. Fitted with a case measuring 40 mm in diameter and an automatic movement, the dial on this watch features a leaf motif, stemming from classic Chinese iconography, and directly engraved in the gold dial. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuated reliefs creating a depth effect. The raised bamboo stalks appear to be floating over the dial. With the horse engraving, on which the details of the mane and coat measure a mere fraction of a millimeter, the artisan provides a tangible expression of the artistic vision behind this creation. Then comes the stage of 'Grand Feu' enameling, a technique invented in Geneva and which remains the exclusive preserve of a rare breed of artisans. By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist further enhances the visual intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial. A final layer of enamel is then applied before a final firing operation that vitrifies the dial and lends a shiny glazed effect that gives added definition to the floral motif. The horse is delicately applied to the center of the dial, poised as if ready to gallop through the sapphire crystal and thus creating a truly striking effect. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

Three exclusive Jaquet Droz timepieces have been created using the exclusive know-how of Jaquet Droz's master craftsmen, specialized in highly complex techniques: engraving, painting and Grand Feu enamel. Two Arab thoroughbreds – considered the most beautiful horses in the world – have been delicately painted on the ivory enamel dial of the Petite Heure Minute 39 mm. Captured in full gallop, they seem to want to catch up with the sculptural mustang that appears on the dial of the Petite Heure Minute 43 mm. Extremely wild and difficult to tame, this horse from the American Northwest —depicted in red gold and engraved in bas-relief— seems to jump out from the black enamel. The champlevé technique, used here for the first time by Jaquet Droz, highlights the movement of the mane and the tail, both filled in with black Grand Feu enamel. The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute 41 mm has been chosen as the showcase to depict a horse rearing up on its hind legs against a backdrop of the Great Wall of China, engraved and patinated by hand on a mother-of-pearl dial. Bold, powerful and elegant, this fearless horse in 18-carat red gold appears to protect the Great Wall, which is also hand engraved on the 22-carat red gold oscillating weight next to the Jaquet Droz signature of two stars. For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.

Lastly, Arnold & Son unveiled the HM Horses Set in honor of the Chinese New Year. The Arnold & Son HM Horses Set is a special limited edition of 28 pairs of watches inspired by the horses depicted in traditional Chinese ink-wash paintings. Adorning each of the two lacquer dials is a hand-finished miniature painting of two horses, one pair black and grey on white, the other white and grey against a black background. Nuances of tone and shading, from jet black to silvery grey, are achieved by the tiny brushstrokes and texturing gradually to build-up the entire image with an astonishing richness of details. The two watches in each pair of this limited edition from Arnold & Son are powered by the hand wound A&S1001 calibre, developed, designed and manufactured entirely at Arnold & Son's workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The classical design is underscored by the slim 40 mm 18-carat rose gold case, which is also available with an optional diamond-set bezel. The simplicity of the black and white lacquered dials, which have just two hands and a minimalist chapter ring consisting of tiny dots, leaves the stage free for the dynamic miniature depiction of two charging horses. The timepieces are each presented with a high-quality black alligator leather strap. For more info on Arnold & Son click here.

Posted on January 31, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Other Brands and tagged Vacheron Constantin The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2014 Year of the Horse Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute 39mm Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute 43mm Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute 41mm.

SIHH 2014: Van Cleef & Arpels Presents the Midnight Planétarium Poetic Complication. Live Pictures and Pricing.

For the SIHH 2014, Van Cleef & Arpels turns its gaze to the heavens and gives pride of place to a captivating chapter in its watchmaking history: Poetic Astronomy. In keeping with one of the Maison’s cherished sources of inspiration, planets and constellations appear in enchanting guise to evoke voyages and dreams. The mechanics of time and the spheres are united in the Midnight Planétarium Poetic Complication timepiece, while unprecedented starry compositions are unveiled in the Extraordinary Dials collection. Chosen according to the inspiration of each piece, traditional craft skills form dazzling combinations, bearing witness to the innovation, creativity and excellence of Van Cleef & Arpels.

This new Poetic Complication timepiece 'Midnight Planétarium' in a robust rose gold case measuring 44mm in diameter provides a miniature representation of the movement of six planets around the sun and their position at any given time. Earth and Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn —all visible from Earth with the naked eye— are set in motion thanks to a self-winding mechanical movement of great complexity: equipped with an exclusive module developed in partnership with the Maison Christiaan van der Klaauw, it contains 396 separate parts. The movement of each planet is true to its genuine length of orbit: it will take Saturn over 29 years to make a complete circuit of the dial, while Jupiter will take almost 12 years, Mars 687 days, Earth 365 days, Venus 224 days and Mercury 88 days. The domed crystal allows for perfect view of the tridimensional planets that appear on the dial, something that is only possible thanks to the overlapping of seven sapphire crystal discs that compose the dial.

The Maison has applied its jewelry-making expertise to depicting the planets with a selection of hard stones: turquoise for the Earth, serpentine for Mercury, chloromelanite for Venus, red jasper for Mars, blue agate for Jupiter and sugilite for Saturn. Intricately sculpted by hand into spheres of different dimensions and colors, they are positioned round a sun in pink gold. Each of these elements, along with the shooting star in pink gold, is fixed on its own aventurine disc. With their scintillating deep blue hue, the latter are arranged around the center in perfectly concentric alignment. Painstaking attention has been given to selecting the stones, then sculpting the discs and spheres in order to give form to this animated tableau, with its combination of jewelry and watchmaking savoir-faire.

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Telling the time is a simple question of observing the shooting star, a cherished lucky motif for the Maison. Located at the outer edge of the dial, it completes its circuit in 24 hours. The story continues on the back of the watch, where the oscillating weight is engraved with a starry composition. The day, month and year can be set using two push buttons and viewed through two apertures on the dial. These various functions are accompanied by a poetic invitation to celebrate one’s own lucky day. Using a rotating bezel, the watch’s owner can select the day of his choice by positioning a red triangle against a graduated calendar. On that date, the Earth will move to a position directly below the star engraved on the sapphire crystal, as a sign of good luck.

Don't forget to check the video at the bottom of this post to see how the watch works. Sticker Price $245,000 USD. For more info on Van Cleef & Arpels click here.

Technical Specifications of the VC&A Midnight Planétarium Poetic Complication:
Case: 18K Pink gold, 44mm diameter.
Dial: pink gold, aventurine, serpentine, chloromelanite, turquoise, red jasper, blue agate and sugilite.
Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement with a Christiaan van der Klaauw module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels.
Strap: Black alligator with pink gold folding buckle.
Also available with bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds and folding buckle set with round diamonds.

Posted on January 27, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under SIHH, Van Cleef & Arpels, Other Brands and tagged VC&A Midnight Planetarium Poetic Complication Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planetarium 2014.

Insider: Frédérique Constant Moontimer. An Inexpensive Swiss Made Mechanical Timepiece with In-House Movement.

If you are an avid reader of our watch blog, you know by now that we only feature watches that we deem worthy talking about. You then also know, that we will feature watches regardless of their price point as long as we like them and as long as we think that they meet certain criteria in terms of craftsmanship and design. One thing we can promise, is that we will never feature fashion watches from Gucci, Ralph Lauren or Burberry in this website. Because of this commitment, we have decided to feature this beautiful Frédérique Constant timepiece, a watch that comes from a 25 year old Swiss manufacture that offers great affordable timepieces fitted with in-house calibres, yes, it is not a typo we are talking about 'in-house calibres'.

Frédérique Constant was established in its current form in 1988. Aletta Bax and Peter Stas launched their first collection in 1992, comprising six models fitted with Swiss movements and assembled by a watchmaker in Geneva. Today, each Frédérique Constant watch is hand-assembled at their manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva with an estimated production of 125,000 pieces a year. The name 'Frédérique Constant' comes from two names: Frédérique Schreiner—1881-1969— and Constant Stas—1880-1967. Peter Stas current Managing Director of Frédérique Constant S.A., is a 4th generation descendant of Mr. Constant Stas, who founded his company in 1904, making printed clock dials for the watch industry.

The Frédérique Constant Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 is a watch that we've always liked and one that offers a moon phase and date complication in a well balanced, well crafted timepiece. While many like to describe Frédérique Constant timepieces as mere copycats of Pateks or Jaeger-LeCoultres, we like to think of this manufacture as one that is a perfect point of entry into the Swiss made mechanical watches category with a product that follows horological design principles established centuries ago by the fathers of horology, rather than a company that offers watches that pretend to be a look-alike or wannabe of timepieces designed by the leading 'haute horlogerie' manufactures. After reviewing this timepiece, we can say with confidence that you are getting your money's worth, not more not less.

The Frédérique Constant Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 is fitted with a nice highly polished stainless steel case measuring 43mm in diameter and 11.4mm in thickness, a black 'calfcroc' strap with deployant buckle and a beautiful black dial with raised white Arabic numerals with luminescent material, central minute chapter ring, red date pointer indicator, moon phase aperture at 6 o'clock and a set of perfectly contrasting leaf-shaped white hands. The dial is nicely finished and the luminescent material on the numbers and hands is quite bright and long lasting. As you know, most watches with this type of design and classical look typically lack of luminescent material at all. The dial is very easy to read and the convex sapphire crystal provides good readability even in poor light conditions. 

The Frédérique Constant  Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 is powered by the in-house automatic calibre FC-330 with 26 jewels which provides a power reserve of 38 hours while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. The calibre is very nicely finished considering the inexpensive price point of this watch and even better finished than some calibres we've seen in more well established brands. Kudos to Frédérique Constant for this level of craftsmanship. To make this calibre even better, Frédérique Constant The watch is fitted with a display case back that allows for full view of the calibre and the watch is waterproof to a depth of a 100 meters. Opposed to what you see in some of the more inexpensive watch brands, this watch is individually numbered as it should be.

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One great advantage of this watch over other moon phase watches, is that both the date and moon phase are set via the winding crown without the need for any push pieces around the case band. The crown is a screw-down that is easy to grip but somewhat stiff when pulled out to the winding position. Regardless of the stiffness, one positive thing on this movement, besides the fact that it is a hacking one, is that there's no play at all on the hands when setting the time and pushing the crown back in.

The FC Moontimer is fitted with a very nice handmade matte black calf strap that Frédérique Constant refers to as 'calfcroc' because of its apparent crocodile look with large scales. The strap is properly fitted with a very comfortable and well crafted deployant buckle. The buckle is beautifully engraved with the Frédérique Constant logo and features alternating bead-blasted and highly polished areas. The strap wraps very well around the wrist and is perfectly flushed against the edges of the case with a double spring bar system.

On the wrist the watch wears smaller than its actual size and more like a 40mm watch in a very comfortable and solid way. The watch has a nice weight and it's wrist presence is spectacular for the price. If you are ready to break the paradigm that only an expensive watch is worthy of your wrist, we suggest you give this brand a try and see for yourself. At the very least, you'll find this watch to be a nice 'play watch' for those days when the Patek, Vacheron or Jaeger-LeCoultre needs to stay at home or in the safe.

Sticker Price $2,225 USD. For more info on Frederique Constant click here.

Posted on January 13, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Frederique Constant and tagged Frédérique Constant Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 Peter Stas Aletta Bax.

Watch Shopping: 10 Watches You Can Gift This Season Priced Under $11K USD. A Little Bit of Everything for Almost Everyone.

Whether you want to pamper yourself with a new timepiece or you are just looking to find the perfect watch for that special someone —a true watchlifestyler or not—, these are ten formidable watches you can gift this season. We have included in this list a little bit of everything for almost everyone including a couple of chronographs, a GMT complication, a complete calendar, a watch fitted with a power reserve indicator, a very unconventional looking watch that takes its inspiration from a manometer, a robust diver's watch, the winner of the Revival Prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, an upgraded Italian classic and even one of the best examples of watchmaking from Saxony.

The best part is that we have already reviewed them here and all are priced under $11K USD. If you want to check the full reviews by watch, just click on the name of the respective watch and you will be redirected to our review with live pictures.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay ref. 79220R, 41mm stainless steel case, automatic movement, depth rating to 200m, unidirectional rotating bezel, stainless steel bracelet and additional black nylon strap, gilt matte finished dial, Winner of the Revival Prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Sticker Price $3,425 USD. For more info on Tudor click here.

Bell & Ross Sport Heritage BR 126 Chronograph, 41 mm stainless steel case, display case back, automatic movement, 30-minute chronograph, date indicator, rubber strap with pin buckle, vintage looking luminova on dial. Sticker Price $4,500 USD. For more info on Bell & Ross click here.

Baume & Mercier Clifton ref. 10055 Complete Calendar, 43 mm stainless steel case, display case back, automatic movement, includes day, date, month and moon phase indicators, black alligator strap with deployant buckle. Sticker Price $4,950 USD. For more info on Baume & Mercier click here.

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro, 45.2 mm stainless steel case, automatic movement, raw natural color leather strap and design inspired by a tire pressure gauge. $3,500 USD. For more info on Giuliano Mazzuoli click here.

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date ref. 23947030204, 42 mm stainless steel case, display case back, automatic movement, big panorama date indicator at 6 o'clock, black dial and dark brown alligator strap with pin buckle. Sticker Price $9,200 USD. For more info on Glashütte Original click here.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche ref. 1378420, 39 mm stainless steel case, display case back, automatic movement, power reserve and date indicators, matte black alligator strap with deployant buckle and only 9.9 mm thick. Sticker Price $9,300 USD. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.

JEANRICHARD Aquascope ref. 60400-11B401-11A, 44 mm stainless steel case, automatic movement, unidirectional rotating bezel, vertical satin-brushed finished blue dial with date indicator, depth rating to 300m and stainless steel bracelet. Sticker Price $3,500 USD. For more info on JEANRICHARD click here.

Zenith El Primero Limited Edition Chronograph ref. 03.2092.410/91.C496, limited edition of 500 pieces, 42 mm stainless steel case, display case back, automatic movement, 12-hour chronograph, day, date, month and moon phase indicators, black alligator strap with triple folding clasp. Sticker Price $10,600 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.

Panerai Radiomir Black Seal 3-Day Automatic ref. PAM 00388, 45 mm stainless steel case, display case back, 3-day power reserve automatic movement, black matte sandwich dial with super luminova, date indicator and black alligator strap with pin buckle. Sticker Price $7,700 USD. For more info on Panerai click here.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT GoodPlanet ref. 232.30.44.22.03.001 43.5 mm stainless steel case, display case back, automatic movement, GMT function with orange independent hand, rotating ceramic bezel, date indicator and stainless steel bracelet. Sticker Price $8,100 USD. For more info on Omega click here.

Posted on December 11, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Watch Shopping, Other Brands and tagged Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date ref. 23947030204 Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Baume & Mercier Clifton ref. 10055 Complete Calendar Bell & Ross Sport Heritage BR 126 Chronograph Tudor Heritage Black Bay ref. 79220R Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche ref. 1378420 Zenith El Primero Limited Edition Chronograph ref. 03.2092.410/91.C496 JEANRICHARD Aquascope ref. 60400-11B401-11A Panerai Radiomir Black Seal 3-Day Automatic ref. PAM 00388 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT GoodPlanet ref. 232.30.44.22.03.001.

Insider: Badollet Crystalball Tiger. Because Green is the Color of Money.

As we told you a few months ago, Badollet is an independent brand with a strong pedigree that because of its exclusivity and high price range, is only accessible for the ultra elite watchlifestylers. Since they say that "green is the color of money" why not publish a review of one of our favorite Badollet timepieces that comes with plenty of green in it and also with a very green price tag.

The Crystalball Tiger is a timepiece featuring a tourbillon and fitted with a tripartite case in 18K rose gold and malachite measuring 44m in diameter. The dial is also made of malachite. Malachite is present in several historical landmarks around the world such as the 'Malachite Room' in Mexico City's Castle of Chapultepec, 'The Tazza' vase —gifted by the Tzar Nicholas II— at the Linda Hall Library in Kansas City and the over-sized  neoclassical vase at the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, just to name a few.

The malachite dial features a hand engraved 18K rose gold tiger surrounded by bamboo sticks on relief that almost seems to be floating on top of the surface of the dial which happens to be part of the middle case. The tourbillon cage is located at 7 o'clock and the blued hands provide perfect balance to this work of art. The level of detail on the tiger and the bamboo is almost unfathomable and a real treat for the eyes.

The crown is very nicely crafted and properly signed with the Badollet griffin. The hollow angular horns on the case are extremely unique and as beautiful as it gets. All the rose gold elements used in the construction of this watch, provide the perfect amount of contrast to the beautiful dark malachite middle case and dial.

Now, let's talk about our favorite part. The display case back allows for full view of the amazing Badollet manual-wound calibre BAD5600 with aluminum and lithium bridges entirely hand-engraved to resemble bamboo scaffolding. The plate and gears are made from blackened gold and the movement provides a power-reserve of five days when fully wound. The intricate work on each of the bridges shows the love for horology and the level of detail obtained by the watchmaker when engraving the bridges is just out of this world. As a side note, Badollet offers ad-hoc personalization where the bridges or other components of the movement can be engraved.

The Badollet Crystalball Tiger watch is fitted with an elegant black safari crocodile leather strap that is handmade, leather-lined, hand-creased, saddle-stitched and available in matte or glossy finish. The strap features an 18K rose gold double-deployant folding clasp. The strap wears very comfortable and requires no break-in period.

On the wrist, the watch feels like a dream. Even though the watch has a very particular look and its dial could be perceived by a few as kitsch, all we can say is that it is not the case. While we consider ourselves big fans of simplicity and discreet timepieces, all it takes to fall in love with this timepiece is to see one in person and strap it on to the wrist, after you've done that, is just game over.

This time we skipped the wrist shot as we wanted for you to use your imagination and visualize how this fascinating watch would look on your on wrist.

Sticker Price $385,000 USD. For more info on Badollet click here.

Posted on December 5, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Badollet and tagged Badollet Crystalball Tiger Malachite and Rose Gold Badollet Calibre BAD5600 Posts 2013.

Insider: JEANRICHARD Aeroscope Black Chronograph. A Spectacular Black Timepiece for Black Friday.

Considering that today is 'Black Friday' here in the U.S., why not feature one of the nicest black watches in the market. This beautiful JEANRICHARD Aeroscope Black Chronograph ref. 60650-21J613-FK6A comes in a traditional cushion-shaped case with vertically satin-brushed finished DLC-coated black titanium case and bezel with pushers protected by carbon fiber composite surface. The case measures 44m in diameter and as we said it before when reviewing the JEANRICHARD Aquascope here, its satin-brushed finish is only comparable to the grain on the finish of Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks or Royal Oak Offshores. The case and bezel feature satin-brushed and highly polished areas and depending on the light, the watch tends to look more graphite grey than black. The look and feel of this watch is more of a black ceramic watch rather than that of a DLC titanium timepiece.

This watch features a beautiful black dial also finished with a satin-brushed vertical finish, circular satin-finished chrono registers, orange luminescent Arabic numerals —not very bright at low light—, a 12-hour chrono register at 6, a 30-minute chrono register at 9, a running seconds register at 3 o'clock and a date aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock. The dial is extremely nicely but somewhat busy, The arrow-shaped hands in orange also with luminescent material provide a nice contrasting touch and good readability.

The fixed bezel is also spectacularly finished and it features an orange minute scale with 5-minute increments with no luminescent material. The bezel along with the dial, makes this watch look ultra sporty and quite rugged. This watch features rectangular chrono pushers with carbon fiber composite and the start/stop pusher requires a strong push to activate the chronograph.

The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic calibre JR66 with 43 jewels, which provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. During our review the watch seemed to be keeping perfect time with a variation of +1 seconds over a four day period. The calibre is perfectly protected by a solid case back carefully engraved with the JEANRICHARD logo.

To round out its sporty look, this watch is fitted with a very comfortable rubber strap with JR markings near the lugs and a easy to operate deployant buckle. The strap is somewhat short but nicely finished. 

On the wrist the watch wears extremely comfortable and way smaller than its actual size. This is something really positive for those with wrists smaller than 7" that want to wear a 44mm size watch. Overall, this is a very nice looking watch with an ultra sporty character that comes with a very nice price tag. If you are looking for an understated chronograph that is exclusive and extremely well finished, look no further.

Sticker Price $5,270 USD. For more info on JEANRICHARD click here.

Posted on November 29, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, JEANRICHARD and tagged JEANRICHARD Aeroscope Black Chronograph ref. 60650-21J613-FK6A Halloween.

Insider: Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter. Nothing About this Timepiece is Conventional.

Since the moment Romain Jerome unveiled this surprising timepiece earlier this year, we wanted to do a hands-on review with live pictures of it. There's nothing like appreciating timepieces under natural light and writing about them after holding them and wearing them. Stock images are wonderful, but they will never convey the true essence of a timepiece like live photography under natural light.

The Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter R.J.M.TO.MO.001.01 is everything but conventional. This watch is a fresh tribute to the conquest of space, equipped with a flying tourbillon featuring a unique three-dimensional architecture. Fitted with an over-sized stainless steel case measuring 48.5 mm wide, 44.5 mm long and 20 mm thick, this Romain Jerome features DNA steel elements from the Apollo 11 space shuttle.

The massive case on this watch features very intricate details such as the screws that attach the lugs to the case, the cylinder system applied to these lugs for optimal wrist comfort and the alternating perfect satin-brushed and highly polished areas. This cylinder system looks as if Romain Jerome had installed mini shock-absorbers to the area where the lugs meet the case. To round out the very interesting look of this timepiece, the watch features a rubberized crown with perforations that is very unique and visually appealing.

This very unconventional watch with a rectangular shape, features an amazing texturized black dial containing 'moon dust', integrated x-shaped traverses, circular satin-brushed counters around the flying tourbillon located at 9 and around the hour/minute sub-dial with cut out Arabic numerals located at 3 o'clock. Its oxidized black and satin-brushed hands provide perfect contrast with their red lacquered accents against the dark grey texture on the dial that resembles small moon craters.

In addition to the already mesmerizing dial, the watch is equipped with a small window outside the area of the dial at 6 o'clock, where the power reserve indicator is located. The power reserve indicator features engraved 'plus and minus' signs as well as a lacquered red hand for optimum readability.

The amazing flying tourbillon can be appreciated in its full splendor via the front, the display case back but also from the side via a strategically placed sapphire crystal on the case band. As a reference, there are five sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment on this watch. One on the case band at 9, one at 12, one at 6 o'clock, one on the front and one on the display case back. The amazingly beautiful automatic Romain Jerome calibre RJ3000-A can be fully appreciated via the display case back. This calibre composed of 32 jewels beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph providing a power reserve of 42 hours. The calibre is a real treat for the eyes.

This impressive watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap with pin buckle that is very comfortable and nicely finished. We would've expected a deployant buckle on a watch like this, but still it is not a deal breaker.

This Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter is available in a limited edition of 25 pieces and as expected, even though the watch wears quite comfortably thanks to the cylinder system on the lugs, the watch wears really large and protrudes to the point where it is impossible to tuck it under the cuff of a shirt. But well, when you are wearing something as unique and impressive as this watch, why would you even consider hiding it under your cuff. Don't you think? If you have a wrist smaller than 7" we really think you might as well look elsewhere, as this watch is made for those that can handle it.

Sticker Price $115,000 USD. For more info on Romain Jerome click here.  

Posted on November 27, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Romain Jerome and tagged Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter Romain Jerome Moon Orbiter R.J.M.TO.MO.001.01 Apollo 11.

Insider: JEANRICHARD Aquascope. A Great Diver's Watch Priced Under $4K.

Photo of whale on the background by Doug Allan & Sue Flood.

If you are looking for a diver's watch that is elegant but understated at the same time, rich in history and with great craftsmanship but you can't spend more than $3,500 USD, then look no further, this JEANRICHARD Aquascope ref. 60400-11B401-11A in stainless steel is the best value for your money.

JEANRICHARD—sister company to Girard-Perregaux— takes its name from a legendary name in watchmaking, Daniel Jeanrichard. This genius pioneered the development of the watchmaking industry in the Neuchâtel mountains in the late 17th century. Daniel Jeanrichard was born in the hamlet of Les Bressels, midway between La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle. In 1681, he created his first watch, then set up his watchmaking workshop. Daniel Jeanrichard was also a major driving force behind the watchmaking industry. He was ahead of his time, demonstrating a talent for innovation. In addition to the production of watches, the region’s watchmakers are indebted to him for the invention of machines and tools, and for establishing the basis for learning the art of watchmaking itself.

This massive cushion-shaped diver's watch weighing —approximately 260 grams— more than an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver on bracelet or a robust Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean XL is fitted with a very solid vertically satin-brushed finished stainless steel case with blue PVD coating around the corners —these PVD coating makes the case appear like there's a case within another case. The case measures 44m in diameter and its satin-brushed finish is only comparable to the grain on the finish of Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks or Royal Oak Offshores. We promise we are not exaggerating.

The blue dial on this watch is also perfectly finished with a vertical satin-brushed finish to match the superb craftsmanship of the case. The dial is reminiscent of timepieces from the 70s with that same hue that varies depending on lighting conditions and the angle at which you look at it. The dial features applied rhodium-coated indexes and rhodium-coated hands both with luminescent material that glows strong and long lasting. The seconds hand features a red arrowhead tip, the minute hand is sword shaped and the hour hand is arrow shaped. The dial features a date aperture between the 4 and 5 o'clock markers with a black calendar disc. The anti-reflective coating on the crystal allows the wearer to appreciate the dial without unnecessary glares or reflections.

The bezel made of stainless steel is properly graduated with markers and minutes in dark blue that depending on the light can look slightly lighter in color. The unidirectional bezel rotates very smoothly and it is fitted with teeth that are easy to grip even when using gloves. The construction of the bezel is very solid and its design is very well balanced with a 12 o'clock marker with luminescent material. The screw-down crown was designed to perfectly match the teeth on the bezel and just like the solid case back, it is nicely engraved with JEANRICHARD's logo. This watch is waterproof rated to a depth of 300 meters or 30 Atmospheres.

The beating heart inside this watch is the JEANRICHARD automatic calibre JR60 with 26 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 38 hours when fully wound, while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. This diver's watch is fitted with a sturdy and very well crafted elegant bracelet with double-folding clasp. Unfortunately the only two downsides of this watch come from the bracelet as it does not include a diver's extension —almost unthinkable; however but we've also seen that on the Tudor Heritage Black Bay— and it is not fitted with screws for easy removal of links —surprising considering that the watch is extremely well crafted.

Regardless of the bracelet downsides, we really feel that this watch gives you great value for your money and unparalleled wrist presence. This watch wears considerably larger than 44mm —perhaps more like a 46mm watch— and the bracelet makes this watch wear very comfortably. This timepiece looks great with a casual attire or while wearing a suite. This is definitely one of the nicest diving watches in the market and so well crafted that you can almost forget you are wearing a sports watch. The Aquascope is also available on rubber strap and with grey, white or black dial.

Sticker Price $3,500 USD. For more info on JEANRICHARD click here.

Posted on November 18, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, JEANRICHARD and tagged JEANRICHARD Aquascope JEANRICHARD Aquascope ref. 60400-11B401-11A Daniel Jeanrichard Posts 2013.

Insider: Romain Jerome Spacecraft. Like Wearing a Mini Spacecraft on The Wrist.

With a shape somewhat reminiscent of the shape of the Bulova Driver with red LED from the 70s —first watch that comes to mind, no pun intended—, the Romain Jerome Spacecraft ref. RJ.SC.AU.001.01 is a watch that needs to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. Below you will find two images of the Bulova Driver to see the similarity in the shape and of its retro-futuristic design. While the Romain Jerome stands apart from the Bulova at a very different level due to its design, craftsmanship, materials, horological complexity and price point, we feel the similarity is there.

This fascinating unconventional watch is product of the work between Manuel Emch —CEO of Romain Jerome— and two of the top names in the watch industry: Eric Giroud and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. The three men pooled their ideas and their creativity to give rise to a unique timepiece they named Spacecraft. Right from the first sketches, Manuel Emch and Eric Giroud imagined a very different type of product, combining retro-futuristic aesthetics and horological complexity. “The design evolved in step with our discussions and our numerous exchanges. That is what makes it such a singular object”, explains Eric Giroud.

The Romain Jerome Spacecraft is an unusual trapeze-shaped watch featuring a black PVD-coated titanium case measuring 50mm x 44.5mm x 18.5mm, that surprises and intrigues. To add to the complexity of this watch, the case is fitted with black PVD-coated titanium elements, beadblasted titanium plates and anti-reflective metallised sapphire crystals. With its rectilinear profile and its faceted surfaces it clearly echoes the aesthetics of a spacecraft. The black rotating disc with white numbers and a red indicator transferred on the sapphire crystal indicates the minutes on the top of the case, while the linear red lacquered retrograde jumping hour display is read off laterally, giving time telling a whole new dimension.

As expected from this manufacture, the level of design, the finish of the case and the intricate components of this watch are not only mesmerizing but worthy of admiration. The watch is fitted with a black polyamide mesh strap with titanium pin buckle that wears quite comfortably while maintaining the sidereal look and feel of this timepiece. The black PVD-coated titanium crown almost appears as if it were made of ceramic and it accentuates the facets on the top of the case superbly. The faceted design of the watch also prevails on the case back that protects the automatic calibre RJ2000-A fitted with 54 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 38 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. Additionally, the watch is waterproof to a depth of 30 meters.  

Because of its design the watch wears big and high on the wrist but very comfortably. In all honesty, the only way you can fully appreciate the craftsmanship behind this watch is by seeing it in person. We really consider ourselves very lucky to have been able to peruse one in person and work on this review with no stock images. If you used to watch the original Star Trek series while growing up, we are confident that this watch will fascinate you as much as it fascinated us. This watch is available in a limited edition of only 99 pieces.

Sticker Price $24,900 USD. For more info on Romain Jerome click here.  

Posted on November 8, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Romain Jerome and tagged Romain Jerome Spacecraft ref. RJ.SC.AU.001.01 Bulova Driver Manuel Emch Jean-Marc Wiederrecht Eric Giroud Posts 2013.

Insider: Romain Jerome 'Día de los Muertos' Limited Edition. Celebrating One of Mexico's Most Important Holidays.

Considering the importance of Mexican consumers from a watch collecting standpoint, Romain Jerome celebrates and commemorates this holiday with a limited edition timepiece decorated with a traditional colorful skull emulating the look of the traditional sugar skulls —'calaveritas'— of this Mexican holiday.

'Dia de los Muertos' —Day of the Dead— is a Mexican holiday celebrated on November 2nd throughout all of Mexico and it has been classified by the UNESCO as 'Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity'. The holiday focuses on remembering friends and family members who have passed while setting up private altars at home —called 'ofrendas'— to honor the deceased. The altars include pictures of the deceased, votive candles, Mexican marigolds —cempasúchil flowers—, sugar skulls —calaveritas— and the favorite foods and beverages of the departed. Scholars trace the origins of the modern Mexican holiday to indigenous observances dating back hundreds of years and to an Aztec festival dedicated to the goddess Mictecacihuatl.

The Romain Jerome 'Día de los Muertos' ref. RJ.T.AU.FM.001.01 is available in a limited edition of 25 pieces in two different versions with or without spiral micro pave black diamonds on the bezel. This watch is fitted with a black PVD coated steel case —with encrusted black diamonds around the bezel— measuring 46mm in diameter, a black ceramic bezel, a black mirror-polished dial with skull shaped applique adorned with a 'champlevé' cold enameled decoration, a polished RJ logo at 4 o'clock and black satin brushed arrow-shaped hands with superluminova on the tips. The seven colors on the skull are representative of the seven stages through which the soul of the dead must pass —according to the Aztec beliefs— before being able to rest in peace. The texture and finish on the skull applique is just flawlessly executed and a real treat to the eyes. Opposed to what most stock images depict, the flowers on the skull are pink and not red providing the perfect contrast against the cream background of the skull and the blackness of the timepiece.

Just as with any other Romain Jerome timepieces, the case is very solid and massive but quite comfortable. The case features the traditional claws and hex screws on the case band and this particular watch is fitted with a very unique and nicely decorated solid case back. The beating heart inside this fascinating limited edition timepiece is the automatic calibre RJ001-A fitted with 23 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.

The Romain Jerome 'Día de los Muertos' is fitted with a beautiful black hornback alligator strap with deployant buckle that rounds up the interesting and fascinating design of the watch.  

On the wrist, the 'Día de los Muertos' Limited Edition wears true to its size and quite comfortably. The wrist presence of this watch is spectacular and if you want to highlight the pink flowers on the skull even more, make sure you pair it with a pink shirt or any shirt with pink accents. If you are Mexican or just someone that worships 'la calaca tilica y flaca' this watch is a must have.  

Sticker Price $21,450 USD. For more info on Romaine Jerome click here.  

Posted on November 2, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Romain Jerome and tagged Romain Jerome Día de los Muertos Limited Edition 25 pieces Romain Jerome ref. RJ.T.AU.FM.001.01 Romain Jerome ref. RJ.T.AU.FM.001.02 Posts 2013 Halloween.

Insider: Maîtres du Temps Chapter Two. A Creation by Peter Speake-Marin and Daniel Roth.

Maîtres du Temps is not so much a new watch company but an entirely new horological concept launched in 2008. Founded by Steven M. Holtzman, it brings groups of master watchmakers together to develop exclusive timepieces. Steven began his career in horology in 1982, when he joined the family owned business —Gruen Watch Company—one of the oldest American watch companies founded in 1894. In 1997, he created Helvetia Time Corporation —HTC— to distribute high-quality Swiss watch brands —including Roger Dubuis— throughout the Americas. With Maîtres du Temps, Holtzman acts as a catalyst for today's greatest master watchmakers to collaborate on the most innovative projects imaginable. This time in order to develop the Chapter Two, Steven brought together two masters of horology, Peter Speake-Marin and Daniel Roth. 

The Chapter Two ref. C2T.05.21.142 in 18K white gold is a fascinating timepiece featuring a triple calendar with a groundbreaking movement that includes two independent rollers to display the month and day of the week. This watch features a polished 'tonneau' shaped case measuring 58mm x 42mm x 16mm that is massive but very elegant at the same time. Every detail on the finish and design of this case exudes elegance and perfection.

The chocolate color engine-turned sun-ray 'guilloché' dial with circular grain satin surfaces features printed roman numerals in white over a black background, running seconds at 6 and big date display at 12 o'clock. The month and day of the week are fully spelled on two black anodized aluminum rollers outside the dial at 12 and 6 o'clock respectively. The hands on the dial are made of 18K white gold and sword-shaped with diamond-cut facets. 

This fascinating timepiece is powered by the automatic Maîtres du Temps calibre SHC01 with a symbolic goblet-shaped rotor in 22K gold, 'panier guilloché' and relief text that reads: "Masters and Their Craft A Life Long Pursuit of Excellence". The movement is comprised of 382 parts and 32 jewels and provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound. The delicate finishing of the bridges features sun-ray 'Côtes de Genève', perlage, beveling, 'colimaçonnage' and polished screw heads. The movement and the rollers are fully visible through the octagonal display case back. Interestingly enough, this timepiece is fitted with a total of six sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating and the day and month correctors are on the back of the case to ease the setting of these complications.

 

The Chapter Two is fitted with a very elegant hand-sewn black alligator strap that is very comfortable and supple. The strap features a double-deployant buckle that is delicately finished and properly engraved. Even the finish of the strap lining is just perfection —notice the Maîtres du Temps stamping on it.

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This timepiece wears very comfortably on the wrist but sits quite high. Now, one thing that you will see when perusing or owning this timepiece, is that the craftsmanship behind it is just out of this world. This is 'haute horlogerie' in its purest form of expression. The watch is also available in 18K red gold and the dial colors available are chocolate brown, black, silver, rose or blue.

Sticker Price $86,000 USD. For more info on Maîtres du Temps click here.  

 

Posted on October 23, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Maitre du Temps and tagged Maitres du Temps Chapter Two Maitres du Temps Calibre SHC01 Masters and Their Craft Steven M. Holtzman Gruen Watch Company Helvetia Time Corporation Peter Speake-Marin Daniel Roth Maitres du Temps Chapter Two ref. C2T.05.21.142 Posts 2013.

Insider: Breva Genève Génie 01. A Mechanical Timepiece with a Built-in Barometer and Altimeter.

Breva Genève is a company that was founded by Vincent Dupontreué on his 33rd birthday in 2010. Fueled by his desire for a nice complicated watch and inspired by a beautiful weekend in Italy's Lake Como, the Breva name came to mind —as ‘La Breva’ is a warm southern wind contributing to the agreeably mild micro-climate around Lake Como— and the marvelous idea of creating a mechanical timepiece that would also forecast the weather. In 2013, after three years of research and development, led by Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Dupontreué launched the Breva Génie 01.

The Breva Génie 01 is available in a limited edition of 55 pieces —of each metal— with a beautiful and very solid case measuring 44.7mm in diameter in either white gold or rose gold. The watch is fitted with three dual-purpose crowns on the caseband. The winding crown is located at 9 o'clock —engraved with Breva's logo—, a second crown located at 2 o'clock is used to make adjustments to the barometric pressure disc and to adjust the position of the altimeter when resetting it via a pusher —this crown is engraved with a wind rose— and a third crown at 4 o’clock is used to lock and unlock the air valve that gauges the atmospheric pressure —engraved with the word AIR. When this third crown is unlocked, the valve opens and allows a small amount of air to equalize air pressure inside the case with the exterior air pressure. Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture from any air before it enters the movement. 

The multi-layer skeletonized dial features several easy-to-read indicators to keep the wearer fully informed about the time, altitude, power reserve and the weather forecast. The watch features two sub-dials in smoked sapphire crystal with the hours/minutes dial at 8 and the barometer at 2 o'clock with icons providing scientifically based forecasts of likely weather conditions to come. The altitude indicator is located on the top part of the dial as a small flange. Additionally, there is a small indicator at 12 for the running seconds and a 65-hour power reserve indicator at 4 o'clock that is beautifully decorated with a wind rose. Right above the power reserve indicator there is an indicator marked ‘SEALED' that warns when the air valve is in the unlocked position.

By now, most of you might be wondering how this mechanical masterpiece works. Well, at 6 o’clock, there are two aneroid capsules stacked one above the other to measure the slightest change in air pressure as air goes into the watch via the AIR crown. As air goes in, the aneroid capsule expands or contracts with changing air pressure to provide an accurate forecast of the weather conditions. The aneroid capsules in the Breva Génie 01 were especially developed to Breva's specifications to optimise their precision and use in a wristwatch. The capsules are made from a special non-magnetic memory-metal —Breva patented invention— lighter and stronger than aluminum and twice as ductile as steel. A clearly visible lever rests on top of the aneroid capsules and transmits the combined height of the capsules through a complex system of gears and racks to the altimeter indication and the barometer. The altitude display reads from -300 to +5,300 meters, while the barometric display ranges between 973 and 1053 hectopascals —hPa. In a nod to the original method of measuring air pressure in inches of Mercury, an inner scale of the barometer is marked mmHg: Hg being the atomic name for Mercury —Hg from the Greek hydrargyrum meaning ‘silver water’. However, it is important to mention that the watch does not contain any Mercury in it.

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This fascinating horological complication is powered by a proprietary manual-wound movement developed exclusively for Breva by Jean-François Mojon from Chronode. The calibre is composed of 405 parts, 46 jewels and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph. When fully wound, the calibre provides a power reserve of 65 hours. This gorgeous calibre can be fully appreciated via the display case back. The case back features an engraved hectopascal and altimeter scale.   

This watch is fitted with an elegant black hand-stitched alligator strap with folding clasp. The strap is very comfortable and extremely supple. Even though the watch is waterproof rated to a depth of 30 meters, we wouldn't dare to get this gorgeous strap nor the watch wet. 

On the wrist the Breva Génie 01 wears true to its dimensions and perhaps a little bit too high on the wrist. This fascinating complication is one that will for sure become a conversation starter with other watchlifestylers. We have included an image of the white gold version at the bottom of this review for those of you that like the understated look of the precious metal in its white finish variation. 

Sticker Price $150,000 USD. Only $5,000 USD more for the white gold version. For more info on Breva Genève click here.  

Posted on October 22, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Breva and tagged Breva Geneve Genie 01 Breva Watch With Barometer and Altimeter Breva Genie 01 Barometer Watch Posts 2013.

Insider: Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro. A Watch Inspired by a Tire Pressure Gauge.

The Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro is a watch that gets its inspiration from a manometer —tire pressure gauge. Giuliano Mazzuoli is an Italian watchmaker and inventor from Florence that comes from a legacy of bicycle makers, clockmakers and watchmakers. Giuliano's family was a prominent tower clock and long case clock maker in the 1700s. In the inventor's words, "There is nothing more difficult to design than simplicity, but one does not design simplicity. It is encountered like the way I encountered the manometro." His watches are designed in Italy but made in Switzerland to guarantee that the highest standards of watchmaking are met.

This fascinating timepiece inspired by simplicity is a watch that one buys not to be recognized but for the mere pleasure of owning it. The Manometro is fitted with a simple rounded highly polished stainless steel case measuring 45.2 mm in diameter and 14.8 mm in thickness. A nice and thick crown is positioned at 2 o'clock making you feel like you are wearing a real manometer on a strap. The simplicity and uniqueness of this watch is unlike any other watch we have reviewed recently. The Italian design of this timepiece is clearly perceived in every single component of the watch from the dial to the strap and everything in between.

This unique timepiece is fitted with a gorgeous ivory dial with black Arabic numerals, a chapter ring, black minute and hour hands, a red seconds hand and a 12 marker in red in order to provide additional contrast. The dial is simple, clean and very well balanced.

Fitted with an automatic ETA movement, the watch is solid, robust and reliable. The movement is protected with a screwed-in solid case back that is beautifully engraved with the timepiece's information. Nothing fancy, just simple and functional.  

The watch is fitted with a handmade —in Tuscany— natural color calfskin strap that is very nice, thick and quite comfortable. Due to the raw leather used on the strap, it will develop a nice patina over time showing more character as its color darkens. The strap is fitted with a pin buckle that is also very comfortable. As you can appreciate in the pictures, the strap is secured into the case by two screws. Additionally, there's a small stainless steel piece attached to the reverse side of the strap to guarantee that it molds correctly on the wrist.

The watch wears extremely comfortably regardless of its thickness and somewhat bulky case. This timepiece is available in a variety of case materials including brushed stainless steel, titanium, carbon fiber, PVD gunmetal gray titanium and a combination of rose gold and titanium. The dial is available in ivory or black.

If you want to wear a watch that very few own and become a trendsetter, this is a watch that will for sure become more popular over time. Glad we are the first ones to bring you this detailed review with live pictures.  

Sticker Price $3,500 USD. For more info on Giuliano Mazzuoli click here.  

Posted on October 18, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Giuliano Mazzuoli and tagged Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Posts 2013.

Insider: Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic DNA. A Watch Made Out of History.

Founded in 2004 in Geneva, Romain Jerome has quickly become renowned for its unique concept, “DNA of famous legends”. Romain Jerome allows its customers to own a part of history by creating highly emotional timepieces and accessories inspired by and incorporating the DNA of a contemporary legend. To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Titanic, Romain Jerome released a limited edition of 2,012 pieces of the Steampunk Black Chrono and a 100 pieces of the Steampunk Black Chrono 100th Anniversary. The main difference between the two is the rusted propeller at 6 o'clock on the 100th anniversary model.

The Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic-DNA ref. RJ.T.CH.SP.002.01 is another creation made out of the remains of the Titanic. The black PVD case measuring 50mm in diameter is massive and is fitted with an oxidized and stabilized steel bezel stemming from the extraordinary fusion between the metal of the legendary Titanic wreck lying 3,840 meters below the sea and the metal provided by the Harland & Wolff shipyard in Belfast where the ship was built a century ago. This bezel is held firmly in place by four steel black PVD-coated 'claws' and hex screws. 

The skeletonized dial features the iconic 'XII' Roman numeral of the Titanic-DNA collection in ruthenium with a raw finish. The dial features a 30-minute chrono register at 3 and running seconds at 9 o'clock. A propeller recalling the majestic propellers of the Titanic is located at 6 o'clock. The propeller rotates as the rotor on the back winds the movement. This is a very clever touch that makes this timepiece even more unique. Additionally, four pistons are located at 10, 8, 4 and 2 o'clock symbolizing the brand's 'X' motif. To round out the intricate look of the dial, the satin-brushed hour and minute hands were designed resembling the Titanic's anchor. Overall, the dial seems slightly busy but extremely interesting.

The crown and pushers are very nicely designed and both are very easy to use. The winding crown is fitted with a rubber ring to ease its use and features a hex shaped end perfectly matching the hex screws on the dial and on the 'claws' around the bezel.

The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic calibre RJ001-CS composed of 300 parts, 39 jewels and that provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. The calibre is perfectly protected up to a depth of 30 meters with a solid screw-fastened case back featuring a beautiful propeller. 

The Steampunk Black Chrono is fitted with a very comfortable black rubber strap with deployant buckle. A hornback crocodile strap is also available if you prefer a more elegant look; however, we really think that this watch looks perfect on a rubber strap as it has a very rugged and sporty character. The strap features the RJ logo and it is fastened to the lugs by hex screws. The deployant buckle is fitted with a small push button on the clasp for quick-release.   

The watch wears almost true to its size and perhaps a little bit smaller. The watch does sit high on the wrist and its quite hard to fit it under a shirt cuff. Regardless, this is a very comfortable watch with fascinating wrist presence. If you like to wear timepieces that include remains of historical legends, this watch fits the bill. 

Sticker Price $18,000 USD. For more info on Romain Jerome click here. 

Posted on October 16, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Romain Jerome and tagged Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic DNA Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic-DNA ref. RJ.T.CH.SP.002.01 Posts 2013.

Insider: Badollet Ivresse. One of the Most Beautiful Blue Dial Watches.

Here we are presenting another one of the watches we reviewed during our meeting with Philippe Dubois, CEO of Badollet a few weeks ago. The Badollet Ivresse was presented at Baselworld 2012 and is a timepiece with one of the most beautiful midnight blue dials we have ever seen in our watch collecting life.

This is a watch that is simple, clean and perfectly balanced. The dial features an applied satin-brushed chapter ring on top of its midnight blue vertical satin-brushed dial and a highly polished Badollet griffin at 12 o'clock that almost appears as if it was floating in the middle of the darkness.

If minimalist German architect Ludwig Mies Van der Rohe were still alive, he would've described this timepiece using his famous quote "less is more". This beautiful timepiece features a 'tonneau' platinum case that wraps around the wrist like a glove. The case measures 53.80mm in length, 30mm in width and 12.30 in thickness and is fitted with an elegant dark blue alligator strap with large scales, safari finished with rolled edges, tone-on-tone stitching and a pin buckle also in platinum.  

Even though the rectangular 'tonneau'  shape is frequently used in ladies watches, this is a unisex watch that is extremely masculine and top heavy. The beating heart inside this gorgeous timepiece is the Badollet manual-wound calibre 2012. This calibre is a domed movement with cone-shaped going train, flying tourbillon and hanging barrel. The movement provides a power reserve of 5 days when fully wound and is fully visible through the figure eight —infinity shaped— display opening on the solid case back. This calibre, just like all other Badollet calibres is a work of art and a treat to the eyes.

The crown is perfectly flushed against the side of the case in a way where it's almost hidden underneath the watch bezel. This is a clever touch in the design that makes this watch even more elegant and visually appealing.

The wrist presence of this watch is superb and the watch wears very comfortably.  Opposed to what one would think, the watch doesn't wear high on the wrist because of its 'tonneau' shape that adapts to the curvature of the wrist. If you want to wear one of the most exclusive watches with a blue dial —since blue dials are so popular this year—, this is a watch that won't disappoint you, granted that you have enough money to buy one.

Sticker Price $220,000 USD. For more info on Badollet click here.  

Posted on September 25, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Badollet and tagged Badollet Ivresse Philippe Dubois Badollet Badollet Griffin Badollet Calibre 2012 Posts 2013.

Insider: Badollet Crystalball Bamboo. An Exceptional and Very Exclusive Manufacture that Excels in Watchmaking.

Last week we had the opportunity to have breakfast with Philippe Dubois the CEO of Badollet. Not only did we have an amazing conversation with him about his brand but we also talked about the watch industry and where things are heading. Philippe, thank you for sharing such a fascinating morning and afternoon with us.

Badollet is an independent brand with a strong pedigree that, because of its exclusivity and high price range, is only accessible for the ultra elite watchlifestylers. While we were already familiar with the brand before meeting with Philippe, we have never perused a Badollet timepiece before. To be quite frank, it is one thing to see stock images of these watches and something very different to see one in person, peruse it and photograph it. This will be the beginning of a series of reviews of Badollet timepieces that we will be publishing here in the upcoming weeks.  

The Badollet name is part of a dynasty of watchmakers initiated by Jean Badollet (1635-1718) a watchmaker that published in 1689 a work entitled "“The Excellence of Watchmaking” or Small Treatise Describing its Antiquity, its Fundamentals, its Necessity and its Curiosities". Jean Badollet passed on his passion for watchmaking to his six sons. Jean-Jacques Badollet (1756-1843) worked for Abraham-Louis Breguet by supplying him with movement-blanks, gear-trains and “trade watches”. Jean-Moïse Badollet (1811-1862), the son of Jean-Jacques, established the firm “J.M. Badollet & Cie” which quickly became renowned for the excellent quality of its chronometers winning the first prize at the Observatory Timing Contest of 1872, second prize in 1873, third prize in 1875 and the first class medal at the Centennial International Exhibition of 1876 a.k.a. the Philadelphia World's Fair. After several descendants of Badollet managed the company for almost a century, in 1924 the company was sold to a third party and the long dynasty of Badollet master watchmakers came to an end. Despite this, the brand lived on and in 2006 Badollet was revived by Badollet International S.A.

Badollet timepieces —often called instruments of time” by the company— are designed and developed with the buyer in mind and their production is limited to 50 timepieces a year. Their collection is composed of five lines: Crystalball Stellaire, Crystalball Bamboo, Crystalball Chronograph, Observatorie 1872 and Ivresse.

The Crystalball Bamboo is a rectangular watch fitted with a tripartite 18K white gold palladium-coated case measuring 40mm in width, 43mm in length and 14mm in thickness. The case is extremely well finished with alternating brushed and polished areas on the side of the case and even when the measurements really don't portray a large watch, this watch wears considerably larger than its actual size and sits high on the wrist with an amazing wrist presence. The attention to details is immaculate and the overall design of the watch is very masculine and quite timeless. The crown is delicately marked with Badollet's griffin. The lugs are hollow and welded into the case providing another interesting design component to this timepiece.

This timepiece features a skeletonized dial in 18K white gold with a blackened gold-coated brass base, leaf-shaped blued anodized steel hands and a mesmerizing tourbillon cage. The Crystalball Bamboo is powered by Badollet's manual-wound calibre BAD5600 with aluminum and lithium bridges entirely hand-engraved to resemble bamboo scaffolding. The plate and gears are made from blackened gold and the movement provides a power-reserve of five days when fully wound.

This movement is perhaps the most beautiful movement our eyes have ever seen. The intricate work on each of the bridges shows the love for horology and the level of detail obtained by the watchmaker when engraving the bridges is just out of this world. As a side note, Badollet offers ad-hoc personalization where the bridges or other components of the movement can be changed, engraved, replaced with ceramic, sapphire or even encrusted with jewels. All Badollet timepieces can be fully customized and even designed from scratch upon request. What a brilliant product offering for the few that can afford it.  …   

The Crystalball Bamboo, just like all other Badollet timepieces, is fitted with a very elegant safari crocodile leather strap that is handmade, leather-lined, hand-creased, saddle-stitched and available in matte or glossy finish. The strap features an 18K white gold palladium-coated double-deployant folding clasp with a round buckle with the Badollet griffin engraved on it.

If you are ready to take that next step into collecting ultra premium 'haute horlogerie' timepieces then it's time to consider Badollet as one of your next purchases. Tradition, craftsmanship, innovation and exclusivity are some of the values that embody the essence of this manufacture from L'Orient in the Vallée de Joux.

Sticker Price $250,000 USD. For more info on Badollet click here.  

Posted on September 16, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Badollet and tagged Badollet Jean-Jacques Badollet Philippe Dubois Badollet International S.A. Badollet Crystalball Bamboo L'Orient Vallée de Joux Jean-Moise Badollet Crystalball Stellaire Crystalball Chronograph Badollet Obervatorie 1872 Badollet Ivresse.

Experience: Davidoff Mille Series 2000. A Perfect Mild Cigar for a Lunch Break.

Nothing beats having a good cigar during your lunch break. This time, we decided to enjoy a mild cigar that is ranked as one of the best cigars for beginners and a cigar that can be enjoyed any time of the day. We are talking about the Davidoff 2000, a cigar within the Davidoff Mille Series that is made in the Dominican Republic.

The Davidoff 2000 is a very mild 'Corona' measuring 5" in length with a 43 ring gauge. This cigar is perfectly suited for a quick smoke or a smoke with no liquor pairings. To join us in this experience a Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Titanium Red that we have reviewed here before. 

This Davidoff 2000 starts as a slightly peppery cigar for the first five minutes, and then evolves into one of the creamiest and mildest Dominican cigars you could ever smoke. Perfectly rolled and reminiscent of the best 'Habanos', this is a Dominican cigar that will get you as close as possible to a Cuban cigar —in terms of its color, smell and smoking experience. You know we are not kidding as this is something we would rarely mention about cigars made in the Dominican Republic.

Once you light up this wonderful cigar, expect to be taken on a wonderful journey with a wide variety of notes that are typically reserved for more complex and bold cigars like 'Flor de las Antillas', 'Cohiba' or 'Montecristo'. As soon as you take those very first puffs as you are lighting it up, you will be greeted by a touch of pepper followed by some leather and coffee notes.

After the first third of the cigar, this Davidoff 2000 evolves every 3-5 minutes during its first half. After the first half, you will notice that the flavor profile remains quite even with seldom changes towards the last third of the cigar. After experiencing notes of pepper, leather and coffee, the cigar also presents caramel and some floral notes towards the end. Without a doubt, this is a cigar that can be enjoyed all the way to the end —even pass where its ring is located. The Davidoff 2000 is one of the few cigars that is comparable to some of our favorite 'Habanos' like the 'Romeo y Julieta' or the 'Quai D Orsay'.

The burning time on this cigar is approximately 35-45 minutes without a single burnout. The ash holds up very nicely for almost the first half —with a long white ash— in a cigar that has the perfect draw and that reviews should be ranking even higher.

Once you get close to its ring, savor the last puffs of this creamy, mild cigar while you check the time on that perfectly matching Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Titanium Red.

For more info on Davidoff click here.  

Posted on August 31, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Food Wine & Cigars, Other Brands, Linde Werdelin, Sybarite Guide and tagged Davidoff 2000 Davidoff Mille Series 2000 Davidoff Mille Series Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Titanium Red Porsche Keyring Quai D Orsay Romeo y Julieta Cohiba Montecristo La Flor de las Antillas Top Food 2013.