Posts filed under News

News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Audemars Piguet Presents the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon.

Bright, white, sleek and powerful, the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon to be presented for the first time at the SIHH —Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie— 2014 in Geneva is a watch for avant-garde collectors and connoisseurs that brooks no compromise in either technical or aesthetic terms.

Its sculpted titanium case middle  and integrated rubber strap combine with a white ceramic bezel to frame the highly architectural array of tourbillon carriage and second ‘GMT’ time-zone display inside —case and movement in perfect harmony. New for 2014, however, is the flash of pure white center-stage: an intricately machined upper bridge made of white ceramic —only possible now, thanks to Audemars Piguet’s ongoing advances in materials science.

The Concept evolution

The Royal Oak Concept was first unveiled in 2002 as an avant-garde, 30th-anniversary tribute to Audemars Piguet’s legendary octagonal Royal Oak – designed by Gérald Genta as the world’s first luxury watch in stainless steel.

The Concept’s ultra-hard Alacrite 602 case was more rounded to highlight Genta’s signature octagonal bezel and its eight hexagonal screws. The dial was left off, exposing the advanced micro-mechanics ticking within. All these revolutionary design codes have persisted throughout the Concept series, from 2008’s Royal Oak Carbon Concept Tourbillon and Chronograph – an ultra-light timepiece that was the first to combine a forged-carbon case and movement mainplate – to the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon of 2011, with ultra-light, ultra-resistant titanium case and black-ceramic octagonal bezel, push pieces and crown.

This year’s Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon features a white ceramic bezel, crown and push pieces instead of black, all heightening the contrast with the titanium case middle. However, in typical, trailblazing style, the Manufacture has now gone one step further and incorporated ceramic into the movement itself, replacing the blackened upper bridge of Calibre 2913 with white ceramic. As a result, the new Calibre 2930 is visually transformed, its dazzling, hourglass-shaped bridge further enlivened by the double symmetry of the tourbillon bridges and GMT display.

Materials know-how

White ceramic is about nine times harder than steel, meaning the manufacture of the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s bezel, push pieces, crown and especially its intricately shaped upper bridge was a complex and lengthy process.

Ceramic is an almost totally scratch-proof composite material that can be scratched only by diamonds, calling for the use of special milling-cutter machines equipped with diamond-tipped tools. Treating the roughed-out surfaces and edges to a polished or satin-brushed finish represents a daunting technical challenge, due to ceramic’s inherent resistance to abrasion. It takes around 8 hours to make the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s bezel, compared with 45 minutes if it were steel, calling upon all the savoir-faire of the watchmakers and engineers. As well as giving an exceptionally smooth final appearance, ceramic has a practical purpose, displaying extreme resistance to wear.

Similarly, the titanium used for the case middle and sapphire surround is ultra strong, comfortable to wear twice and as light as steel – advantageous for a watch of such generous 44mm proportions. Further demonstrating Audemars Piguet’s deeply entrenched knowledge of high-tech metals and materials, the inner flange circling the dial is made of lightweight aluminum, hardened by anodization.

This daring cocktail of ceramics and metals is just the latest chapter in Audemars Piguet’s ongoing quest to push the envelope when it comes to materials science —a quest that started over 40 years ago with the Manufacture’s most daring move of all, using steel in a luxury watch for the very first time.

Technical tour de force

The defining characteristic of Audemars Piguet’s Concept watches has always been the coherence of case and movement. The ultra-modern ‘engine’ is seamlessly integrated within its ultra-modern ‘chassis’, whose techy aesthetic perfectly complements and showcases the exposed micro-mechanics.

An impressive feat in its own right, the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s hand-wound Calibre 2930 features a twin barrel ensuring 10-day power reserve, tourbillon and second time-zone ‘GMT’ display.

Its timekeeping is regulated by a 3Hz (21,600vph) escapement, rotating inside a tourbillon carriage every 60 seconds, compensating for the effects of the Earth's gravity when the watch is oriented vertically for any length of time.

The tourbillon cage comprises 85 components, yet only 0.45g in weight. An experienced watchmaker spends almost three days assembling its 85 components, including two full days to install the cage, while the full workings will require over two weeks of work. Audemars Piguet is still one of the few manufactures to have mastered all the intricacies of this complication, with over 25 different movements featuring a tourbillon. Each component is beveled, polished, assembled and balanced by hand.

The GMT display provides an instant reading of the time in a second time-zone. It is adjusted using the push piece at 4 o’clock (one press adjusts the time by one hour). The indication of the second time-zone, based on 12 hours, comprises two superimposed discs, making it easy to tell the time. The first, on which the figures are inscribed, completes one turn in 12 hours. The second, just below, completes a turn in 24 hours and has 2 colored areas: a white half for daytime and a black half for night-time. This makes it easier to read the figures.

Audemars Piguet’s proprietary parallel double barrel system ensures the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon runs for as many as 10 days before it needs to be manually wound again, generating a constant force during some 237 hours of autonomy, enhancing timekeeping precision.

The energy from Calibre 2930’s two 10-day barrels is fed into the geartrain at the same time via a single pinion bridging the two. This is a far gentler means of transmitting energy than the usual system of two series-linked 5-day barrels. It also reduces pressure in the gearing, the friction in the barrels is used to offset torque variations, and it gives increased running precision, greater power reserve and enhanced reliability.

The Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon also features a selection indicator mechanism. According to the position of the winding stem, the hand positioned on the dial at 6 o’clock indicates the function selected. The H, N and R indications correspond to the three positions of the winding stem, meaning time-setting, neutral and winding respectively.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Technical Data

Movement

Calibre 2930, hand-wound manufacture
Total diameter: 35.60mm (15 ¾ lines)
Thickness: 9.90mm
Number of jewels: 29
Number of parts: 291
Power reserve: 237h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3Hz (21,600vph)
White ceramic upper bridge
Finishing: hand-finished bridges and mainplate, hand finished cut-out parts, polished angles, hand-drawn file strokes on upper surface and matt finish beneath.

Case

Titanium case
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
White ceramic bezel
Screw-locked crown and white ceramic push piece
Water-resistant to 100m

Display

Openworked
Second time-zone indicator at 3 o’clock
Crown position indicator at 6 o’clock
Tourbillon at 9 o’clock with black anodized aluminum bridge
White gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Black anodized aluminum inner bezel

Bracelet

White rubber strap with titanium AP folding clasp

Function

24-hour GMT display
Day and night indicator
Functions selection
Hours and minutes

Reference

RO 26580IO.OO.D010CA.SDT

 

Posted on November 22, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet, News, SIHH and tagged Audemars Piguet ref. 26580IO.OO.D010CA.SDT.

News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Vacheron Constantin Presents the Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine. A 50-Piece Limited Edition.

Pure, rare, and eternal, platinum is the ultimate material in the field of Fine Watchmaking. To honor this intrinsic alliance between pure mechanical refinement and inestimably precious material, Vacheron Constantin created the Collection Excellence Platine in 2006, composed of creations issued in limited series and designed for collectors of outstanding timepieces. This year the Malte Tourbillon —introduced in pink gold in 2012— joins this exceptional collection. It is in this spirit that Vacheron Constantin offers a new interpretation of this stunning complication with the new Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine.

On a pure, uncluttered 950 platinum dial with a sandblasted finish, discreetly adorned with the inscription “Pt 950” appearing between 4 and 5 o’clock, along with white gold Roman numerals and hour-markers, the tourbillon bearing the seconds hand finds its natural place, perfectly integrated within the new refined lines of the Malte collection. Its 6 o’clock position implied subtly offsetting the axis of the hour and minute hands that thereby stand out majestically above their beating heart.

The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine comes with a curving 38 x 48.24 case in 950 platinum. Secured by a 950 platinum folding clasp, the dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap is graced with a saddle-stitched finish, hand-sewn with silk and 950 platinum threads lending an ultimate touch of perfection. This model is released in a 50-piece individually numbered edition.

Such an exceptional watch naturally deserved an equally exceptional movement. The 169-part mechanical hand-wound Calibre 2795 endows this model with an almost two-day power reserve. This tonneau-shaped movement perfectly tailored to the case is entirely developed and crafted within the Manufacture.

The tourbillon carriage, inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese cross emblem, provides a splendid showcase for the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of naturally hand-bevelled interior angles. Rounding off the tourbillon bar alone called for 12 hours of hand craftsmanship in order to meet the finishing criteria established by Vacheron Constantin. This technique, referred to in French as berçage, consists of filing the tips of the arms with perfect regularity so as to give them a conical and semi-cylindrical shape, while respecting the limits of the center and the heels. To finalize the operation, the artisans smooth it down using stones, buffs, wooden pegs and special pastes in order to achieve a perfectly polished effect.

The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine also meets the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève or Hallmark of Geneva. Instated by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva in 1886, the Hallmark is a guarantee of origin, craftsmanship, durability and expertise. This guarantee of quality no longer applies to the movement alone, but instead to the entire timepiece, thereby representing a major evolution for this independent certification that has enjoyed the longstanding support of Vacheron Constantin and has now opted to respond more fully than ever to the demands of an ever more well-informed clientele.

TECHNICAL DATA
Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine
Référence 30130/000P-9876
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Calibre 2795
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.37 x 29.30 mm (12 ’’’ ¼ x 12 ’’’ ¾)
6.10 mm thick
Approximately 45 hours power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
169 components
27 jewels
Indications Hours
Minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Case Platinum 950
38 mm x 48.24, 12.73 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial Platinum 950, sand-blasted
« Pt 950 » hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
Black painted indications
18K gold applied hour-markers
Strap Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp Folding triple-blade clasp in platinum

For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

Posted on November 20, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Vacheron Constantin, News, SIHH and tagged Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine Vacheron Constantin ref. 30130/000P-9876 Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2795 2013.

News: Vacheron Constantin Presents The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2014 Year of the Horse. Only 12 Pieces Available of Each Model.

Press Release

Introducing a fresh tribute in the ongoing saga of the Métiers d’Art collection, Vacheron Constantin presents The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac —a series of captivating timepieces based on the 12-year cycle. A symbol of a lively and independent spirit, the sign of the horse will take over from the snake on February 1st 2014. To mark this occasion, the Manufacture presents two new watch creations magnificently enhanced by enameling and engraving.

Since its founding in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has excelled in the field of precious ornamental techniques and cultivates passionate ties with the artistic crafts that it has consistently promoted by nurturing the transmission of expertise from one generation to the next. This know-how provides the Geneva-based watchmaking Maison with the opportunity to highlight its fundamental values —including of course its constant quest for excellence, as well as sharing passion, passing on knowledge and openness to the world expressed through unconditional support for both native and foreign forms of artistic expression. Paper-cutting, at the crossroads of Western and Eastern cultures
China, a land with which Vacheron Constantin first began establishing a trust-based relationship from 1845 onwards, is famous for numerous discoveries including the invention of paper and also known as the initiator of the art of paper-cutting or Jianzhi. This technique appears on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list and is echoed in Scherenschnitt, the popular art of paper-cutting born in the Pays d’Enhaut region of Switzerland. Sculpted in paper according to the principles of Jianzhi, the animals of the Chinese zodiac provide a remarkable demonstration of the art of using full and empty spaces. A challenge that Vacheron Constantin has taken up and translated into the field of watchmaking thanks to the skill of its experienced artisans. Engravers and enamelers have worked alternatively on this Year of the Horse model, crafted in pink gold or platinum and limited to 12 pieces each, reserved for Vacheron Constantin Boutiques exclusively.

The leaf motif, stemming from classic Chinese iconography, is directly engraved in the gold dial. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuated reliefs creating a depth effect. The raised bamboo stalks appear to be floating over the dial. With the horse engraving, on which the details of the mane and coat measure a mere fraction of a millimeter, the artisan provides a tangible expression of the artistic vision behind this creation.

Then comes the stage of 'Grand Feu' enameling, a technique invented in Geneva and which remains the exclusive preserve of a rare breed of artisans. By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist further enhances the visual intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial. The necessity of maintaining tight control of the color and the reactions to the firing process that takes place in a kiln at around 800 to 900°C, calls for a specific way of reasoning that takes years to acquire. A final layer of enamel is then applied before a final firing operation that vitrifies the dial and lends a shiny glazed effect that gives added definition to the floral motif. The horse is delicately applied to the center of the dial, poised as if ready to gallop through the sapphire crystal and thus creating a truly striking effect.

Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection owes its superb scope for expressing the decorative arts notably to Calibre 2460 G4. In keeping with its longstanding tradition of offering a broad variety of original displays, Vacheron Constantin perpetuates the art of watchmaking by providing a hands-free display of time. It does so through four windows respectively revealing the hour, the minutes, the day and the date. The first two indications are of the dragging kind and the last two of the jumping type, and each appears through one of the four apertures arranged around the central dial motif. Beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the mechanical self-winding movement is equipped with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight adorned with a dynamic geometrical motif inspired by the shape of the Maltese Cross, the historical House emblem. All its parts are treated to exceptionally sophisticated finishing that meets the criteria laid down by the Hallmark of Geneva – one of the highest tokens of horological craftsmanship created in 1886 and recognized around the world. This requirement now applies to the entire timepiece, which is duly certified by the Hallmark of Geneva. The 2014, year of the horse model, part of the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection, is endowed with that unique touch of soul possessed by watches bearing the Hallmark of Geneva. With this exceptional collection, Vacheron Constantin intends to pursue its special ongoing dialogue with collectors and devotees of Fine Watchmaking.

For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

TECHNICAL DATA
References 86073/000P-9752 - Platinum and 86073/000R-9751 - Pink gold
Automatic In-House Vacheron Constantin Caliber 2460 G4
Movement diameter 31.00 mm (11’’’ ¼ )
Movement thickness 6.05 mm
Number of jewels 27
Frequency 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Number of components 237
Indications Hours, minutes, day of the week and date
Power reserve Approximately 40 hours
Case Platinum 950 / 18K 5N pink gold case
40 mm diameter and 12.74 mm thick
Dial 18K gold hand-engraved, coated with “Grand Feu” blue / bronze enamelling
Hand-engraved platinum 950 / 18K 5N gold Horse
Strap Dark blue / Brown Mississippiensis alligator, large square scales, hand stiched, saddle-finish
Clasp Platinum 950 / 18k 5N pink gold folding clasp
Half Maltese cross
Limited edition of 12 pieces for each model
“2014” engraved at the back of each timepiece
Note: Only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques

Posted on November 18, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Vacheron Constantin, News and tagged Vacheron Constantin ref. 86073/000P-9752 Platinum Vacheron Constantin ref. 86073/000R-9751 Pink Gold Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2013.

News: Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement L.M. Selected 2013 Grand Prix "Aiguille d'Or" at The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.

November 15, 2013 — The 13th edition of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève —Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix— was held this evening at the Grand Théatre de Genève. Fourteen prizes were awarded to timepieces across different categories and a Special Jury Prize was given to Philippe Dufour. As most people in the industry were expecting, the Grand Prix "Aiguille d'Or" Watch of the Year Prize was given to the fascinating Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement L.M. The prize was received by the CEO of the Sowind Group —Girard-Perregaux and JEANRICHARD— Mr. Michele Sofisti. Congratulations!!!!

Here's a video produced by Girard-Perregaux, showing how this fascinating timepiece works so you can further understand why this watch won the Grand Prix.

The rest of the winners of this edition of the Grand Prix are the following:

Grande Complication Prize and Public Prize - A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

Men's Complications Watch Prize - Romain Gauthier Logical One

Men's Watch Prize - Voutilainen V-8R

Innovation Prize - Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon

Sports Watch Prize - Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th

Horological Revelation Prize - Ressence Type 3

Revival Prize - Tudor Heritage Black Bay

"Petite Aiguille" Prize - Habring2 Jumping Second Pilot

Jewelry Watch Prize - Chopard L'Heure du Diamant

Ladies' Complications Watch Prize - Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize - Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Brodé

Ladies' Watch Prize - DeLaneau Rondo Translucent Champagne

For more info the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève click here.

Posted on November 15, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Girard-Perregaux, GPHG and tagged Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneva GPHG 2013 A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar DeLaneau Rondo Translucent Champagne Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée Voutilainen V-8R Romain Gauthier Logical One Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon Chopard L'Heure du Diamant Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Brodé Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th Habring2 Jumping Second Pilot Ressence Type 3 Tudor Heritage Black Bay Philippe Dufour Michele Sofisti Sowind Group 2013.

News: Linde Werdelin Presents the Oktopus Moon Tattoo. A 59-Piece Limited Edition in 18K Rose Gold.

Press Release

Oktopus Moon Tattoo, limited to 59 pieces worldwide is a unique state-of-the-art timepiece. “Testifying to Linde Werdelin’s commitment and skill, the latest addition to our dive series represents the most prestigious and lavish piece of our collection yet”, says visionary co-founder Jorn Werdelin.

An 18K solid rose gold case, intricately engraved with a hand drawn octopus, this masterpiece reflects the mystery and intrigue surrounding this powerful creature.
Featuring their in-house moon-phase complication, elements of the first generation Oktopus have been enriched, proving that Linde Werdelin is a company alert to the most contemporary creative offerings; continually looking to progress in terms of materials, movements and design.

Linde Werdelin’s creative mind, Morten Linde explains, ‘the marriage between modern thinking and traditional craftsmanship resonates throughout an LW timepiece. The Oktopus Moon Tattoo is the perfect balance of contemporary art, technology and innovation; transporting poetry and imagination into the world of time keeping”.
Due to the complexity of building the case, movement and dial, Linde Werdelin has challenged the ability of some of Switzerland’s finest craftsmen and succeeded in pushing the limit of what is possible, achieving such ornamental and revolutionary masterwork. Oktopus Moon Tattoo is an exclusive series of 59 pieces. The limited number signifies two moon cycles of 29.5 days each, before the moon returns to the same point on the celestial sphere. Moon phase complication is an ideal function to plan your night dives.

The engraving on the solid 18K rose gold case has been executed at different depths to create a three dimensional effect; an extremely challenging job resulting in a unique masterpiece. Linde Werdelin introduced the Oktopus series at Basel 2012 with a five-part case construction, which seals the titanium inner cylinder protecting the movement and the dial from water. Selective materials such as rose gold, ceramic and titanium have been implemented to guarantee superb anti-corrosiveness. The entire surface is subsequently treated with microbillé, followed by a gentle hand satin finish. A firm black ceramic bezel seals protects the entire case. The movement is sealed in the chamber by a titanium DLC screw in back-case featuring the iconic hand-drawn octopus. “This is the most substantial LW product launch to date”, says Morten Linde.

Oktopus Moon Tattoo takes Linde Werdelin on a further challenge since the launch of Oktopus Moon in January 2013, uniting both the in-house complication and a newly designed dial. Oktopus Moon Tattoo complication displays luminous, imaginary and hand-drawn moons-phases on its dial. Each moon is drawn and printed several times and delicately inlaid inside the pierced disk one by one. As the moon moves clockwise through its monthly cycle, more of its surface is illumined. The dial consists of multiple skeletonized layers, conveying an immediate depth to the watch. On the lower part lays the moon disk; a metallic cut out surface carrying each luminous moon.
The upper dial is skeletonized. Featuring three diamond-cut hands, it bears a beautifully engraved hand-drawn octopus in the center. All indices are deliberately luminous to enhance readability. The full moon is always indicated with a red mark visible through the lower dial. Numerals 11, 10, 9, displayed between 1 and 2 o’clock allow a more precise track of the lunar cycle.

Sticker Price CHF 42,500 ex VAT. For more info on Linde Werdelin click here.

Technical Specifications
Case:
Entirely crafted in 18K rose gold, / Hand satin finish and microbillé / Constructed with 19 components / 2.2 mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal / Screw in back case with engraved octopus drawing / screw in crown with engraved octopus symbol
Dimensions:
44mm (w) by 46mm (l) by 15mm (h)
Dial:
Multiple-layered skeletonized dial / Hands: diamond-cut hands
Movement:
In-house developed moon phase complication / Power reserve: 42 hours / Balance frequency: 28800vph, 4Hz
Water Resistance:
300m

Posted on November 15, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Linde Werdelin and tagged Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Tattoo Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Tattoo Limited 59-Pieces Morten Linde Jorn Werdelin.

News: Breguet Acquires Three Antique Watches at Christie's Auction in Geneva. Over 1.5 Million Swiss Francs Paid.

Press Release

November 13, 2013. Geneva, Switzerland—The Breguet Museum and its President, Marc A. Hayek, have acquired three exceptional Breguet watches that made their mark on Fine Watchmaking history, for a price of nearly 1.5 million Swiss Francs. Among the purchased lots, an extremely rare, highly complicated pocket watch, the Breguet No. 4691. Bought at Christie’s and Sotheby’s auctions in Geneva on Monday November 11th and Tuesday 12th respectively, these masterpieces complete the already important collection of the House.
 
Sold on July 3, 1833 to the Marquis d’Abercorn, the first watch, No. 5015 went for the price of 38,000 Swiss Francs. This pocket watch is one of the very first watches ever made by any watchmaker featuring a keyless stem winding and hour setting system. Created in 1830, this invention is the ancestor of all modern winding mechanisms, consisting of a knurled winding button to be turned from left to right until a stop was reached. Spanning three Breguet generations, from founder Abraham-Louis and his contribution to the development of the keyless winding and hour setting mechanism, to his son Antoine-Louis who perfected and commercialized it, then the latter’s son Louis-Clément who sold it only 6 weeks after taking reigns of the firm, the No. 5015 is an important witness of the work and legacy of the House of Breguet.

The second antique piece, well-known as the No. 4420 is a historically important 18K gold and silver hunter case cylinder watch. With eccentric hour and minute dials, gold Breguet hands and surmounted by the advance/retard slide, it was purchased for more than 240,000 Swiss Francs. This pocket watch was bought on October 3, 1825 by King George IV of Great Britain. Like his father, King George IV was an aficionado of fine watches and clocks and one of A.L. Breguet’s earliest clients, admirers and most loyal customers. With this acquisition the House took the exceptionally scarce opportunity to acquire one of the Breguet’s “Royal” watches.

Last but not least, the third watch is an extremely rare extra-flat half-quarter repeating pocket watch. Sold on October 13, 1831 to Lord Henry Seymour Conway, the No. 4691 is one of the most complicated watches to have been made by Breguet in such a slim case. With a thickness of 7.7 mm, this Repeater watch displays equation of time, power reserve indication, calendar and moon phase based on chronometer principles. Reflecting the constant search for innovation that has characterized Breguet’s production since the 18th century, boasting an exceptionally large number of complications for a watch of this time, this prestigious timepiece was purchased for more than one million Swiss Francs.

Montres Breguet is proud to announce the arrival of these treasures at its museums. This unique event confirms Breguet President and CEO Marc A. Hayek’s commitment to preserving the Manufacture’s historic and cultural legacy.

For more info on Breguet click here.

Posted on November 15, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Breguet, News, Christie's, Watch Auctions and tagged Marc A. Hayek Montres Breguet Breguet No. 4420 Heures et Minutes Breguet No. 4691 Breguet No. 5015 Christie's Auction Geneva 2013.

News: Zenith Unveils the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage. Entirely Hand-Finished in a 10-Piece Limited Edition.

This year, the Manufacture is pursuing its tribute to the famous navigator Christopher Columbus by introducing this heir to marine chronometers in a splendid interpretation calling upon the finest artistic crafts such as enameling, engraving and micro-painting. It thereby expresses perfect mastery of these historical skills that have been adorning Zenith creations for almost 150 years. This exceptional entirely hand-finished model issued in a 10-piece limited edition is accompanied by three major horological discoveries: a patented gravity control system; a fusée and chain transmission mechanism; and an exceptional frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour.  

A pioneering spirit, a love of challenges and a thirst for exploration: the very same passion and the same quest for uncharted horizons guided Christopher Columbus and Georges Favre-Jacot —the former when he set sail across the vast expanse of ocean to open up a westward route towards the Indies; and the latter when he founded Zenith in 1865 by inventing the very first industrial watch manufacturing company or “Manufacture”. Almost a century and a half later, the brand with the guiding star is still faithful to this pursuit of precision and innovation, as is notably illustrated by over 300 patents. The Manufacture proved this determination in 1969 by creating the legendary El Primero automatic movement, which is still the world’s most accurate series-made chronograph. Moreover, fine watchmaking is not confined to the realm of mechanisms. Confirming its tradition of refined watch exteriors, notably embodied in a number of enameled pocket watches, Zenith once again delights collectors and connoisseurs of rare models by presenting the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage —a limited edition that stands out from the rest of the line by its magnificent décor. It represented a challenge not only for the artisans, but also for the watchmakers and engineers who had to rework the movement. They occasionally pushed the boundaries of feasibility in seeking to accommodate these ornamental elements within the same 45mm diameter case in rose gold and beneath the same domed sapphire crystal —while making no compromises on precision and reliability. The result is a vivid illustration of Zenith’s creative daring and of its ability to combine a dream mechanism with exceptional decorative touches stemming from the most prestigious artistic crafts.

Technical sophistication reigns supreme on the front. On the dial side, Zenith opted to give pride of place to the horological feats incorporated in the watch, while maintaining an open architecture providing a chance to admire its three original mechanisms in action: the barrel with its fusée and chain transmission —at 10.30 and 1.30—, gyroscopic gravity control system and the high-frequency regulating organ at 6 o’clock. Yet this technical, three-dimensional appearance does not preclude considerable aesthetic sophistication, as well as the use of the finest artistic crafts that Zenith is devoted to perpetuating. The three gold subdials (hours/minutes at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, power reserve at 4 o’clock) are finely guilloché, enamelled in white and fitted with blued steel hands and screws echoing the grand watchmaking traditions. The plate has been entirely hollowed out by hand so as to leave only the Zenith logo and a flurry of stars standing out in relief; and the troughs thus created have been filled with midnight blue lacquer.

The counterweight of the gravity control system has also been enhanced with a sophisticated and poetic touch by a hand-crafted micro-painted depiction of the Southern hemisphere.

The back is an open travel invitation. The back of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage springs a big surprise with a vividly colored and lively evocation of the famous navigator’s many adventures. This authentic miniature painting was created by the finest specialists in various artistic crafts using a sophisticated system of gold appliques fixed directly on the movement. In the foreground, on either side of the mechanism reminiscent of the gimbal suspension typical of marine chronometers, one may admire the finely engraved portrait of Christopher Columbus along with a sextant, the astronomical instrument serving to calculate longitude. The background bears a reproduction of the Santa Maria, the flagship with which Columbus sailed on his first voyage in 1492. The tiny manually cut-out and micro-engraved décor depicts the vessel in abundantly rich detail, particularly in terms of the ropes and rigging.

The various sails, crafted in enamel on a cloisonné base using an engraved champlevé technique, are adorned with the famous red cross – replaced on one of them by Zenith’s famous guiding star in a nod to connoisseurs. Behind the sailboat, the going-train bridge has been chosen to represent the ocean with a background engraved with tiny waves and then coated with a layer of translucent lacquer.

In the background, the barrel bridge opens up the horizon with a micro-painted décor depicting a sky divided into day and night. In a subtle detail, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have arranged the movement structure in such a way as to reveal a small gilded gear train evoking sunrise or sunset. Integrating this décor called for a wealth of ingenuity, including finding points to which the applique elements could be fixed, while reducing the movement thickness and the spaces between the calibre and the ornamentation to an absolute minimum —less than a tenth of a millimeter beneath the sails. Entirely hand-finished by artisans gifted with great dexterity, the fabulous adornment of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage makes each watch a unique work of art and a true collector’s watch.

The quest for precision at the very heart of the movement. While Christopher Columbus pushed back the frontiers of the known world, this model named after him pushes the boundaries of time measurement by combining three mechanisms guaranteeing enhanced precision: a regulating organ with a high oscillating frequency —36,000 vibrations per hour— for dividing time into tenths of a second; a fusée and chain transmission system compensating for the inevitable variations in the force of a barrel while it is unwinding; and a patented gravity control module serving to neutralize the effects of gravity on the rate of a watch. In other words, it successfully solves the problems relating to actually wearing the watch —gravity— and to the length of time it can run independently —a drop in torque—, while simultaneously ensuring remarkable precision in time measurement —linked to the oscillation speed of the balance. These feats are achieved by an exceptional movement comprising 939 parts, including 354 for the calibre itself that in turn houses the 173 elements of the gravity control module; while the fusée and chain system comprises 585 parts. Fusée and chain transmission ensuring constant force. As a mechanical watch gradually winds down, the movement loses amplitude —corresponding to the balance-wheel’s angle of oscillation— and thus becomes less accurate. The fusée and chain transmission system serves on the contrary to keep the driving force perfectly stable throughout the full power reserve – with the helicoidal shape of the fusée compensating for the progress reduction in the force of the barrel. The majority of 16th, 17th and 18th century pocket watches were equipped with a fusée, but today very few watch manufacturers are capable of transposing and fitting this mechanism within the confines of a wristwatch. With the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage, stemming from two full years of development, Zenith has now entered this highly exclusive club. Transmission between the barrel and fusée is handled by an 18cm long chain comprising 585 parts. This highly complex construction features alternating double and intermediate links. Once assembled, it is capable of withstanding a traction force of more than 3 kilos. 

Throughout the power reserve, the mainspring transmits its energy to the fusée via a chain that wraps itself around the barrel. By adjusting the variations in tension, the fusée regulates the force that is passed on to the going train – and thence to the silicon escape-wheel fitted inside the gyroscopic carriage. While it takes more than 50 hours —the power-reserve duration— for the chain to wrap itself around the barrel, winding via the stem provides a fascinating sight. These few seconds enable the fusée and the barrel to turn in opposite directions so that the chain wraps itself back around the fusée. The shape of the fusée was dictated by the optimal force that the Zenith master-watchmakers wished to give the barrel. Its grooved conical contours as well as its dimensions are the result of lengthy and particularly complex complications performed for each of the seven construction stages. This fusée could doubtless never have been created without the full integration of all professions —notably including movement prototype making— cultivated in the Manufacture Zenith, nor without the use of sophisticated equipment. Such is indeed one of the core strengths of an integrated Manufacture. While fusée and chain transmission eliminates variations in isochronism —the equal duration of the oscillations—, the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage also cancels out another effect that is detrimental to the rate of a mechanical watch: the influence of gravity. Working on the principle that keeping the regulating organ in a horizontal position engenders the best possible balance-wheel amplitude and thus results in optimal timekeeping precision, Zenith devised and patented a revolutionary module enabling the “heart” of the movement and the escapement to remain constantly in this position. An avant-garde system brilliantly illustrating the creative daring of the Manufacture, the gravity control system is also a tribute to history, since it is inspired by the marine chronometers that Zenith used to produce, borrowing from these legendary instruments the principle of gimbal suspension introduced in the 16th century on marine compasses so that they would stay horizontal despite the pitching and rolling of the boat.

The gravity control system with its self-regulating gyroscopic mechanism serves to maintain the regulating organ in a permanently horizontal position whatever the angle of the wrist and thereby represents the ultimate evolution of the marine chronometer. The brand with the guiding star is the only watch manufacturer to master this system —duly rewarded in the “Best Complicated Watch” category at the 2011 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix— that it invented after five years of intense development.

Such an exceptional model deserved to be presented to its best advantage. The Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage comes in a precious mahogany box featuring ox bone inlays and that can also serve as a humidor with a capacity of 80 cigars. In homage to Christopher Columbus, this box is adorned with a screen-printed motif on parchment-style papyrus reproducing Waldseemüller’s planisphere (1507), the first world map to mention the name “America”.

A magnificent ocean voyage and a splendid voyage to the heart of the infinitely small: with this limited edition combining fine watchmaking and artistic crafts, Zenith is setting out to conquer fascinating new horizons, inspired as ever by a blend of daring, authenticity and pleasure.

For more info on Zenith click here. 

Technical Data

El Primero 8805, hand-wound. A unique gyroscopic mechanism that maintains the regulating organ in a perfectly horizontal position.

Calibre: 16 ½’’’ (diameter: 37 mm)

Thickness: 5.85 mm

Parts: 354

Gyroscopic carriage composed of 173 parts

Chain made of 585 parts

Jewels: 53

Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)

Over 50-hour power reserve

 

FUNCTIONS

Off-centered hours and minutes at 12 o’clock

“Gravity Control” self-regulating module at 6 o’clock

Small seconds at 9 o’clock

Power-reserve indication at 3 o’clock

Fusée and chain transmission beneath the hours/minutes dial

Case, dial and hands

18-carat rose gold

Diameter: 45 mm

Thickness: 14.80 mm/21.80 mm
(with domed sapphire crystal)

Cambered sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides, domes protecting the Christophe Colomb module

Water resistance 3 ATM

Dial: 3 enameled gold dials

Hour-markers: black lacquered

Hands: blued steel

Reference 18.2211.8805/36.C713 —Brown alligator leather strap with rose gold triple folding clasp.

Posted on November 13, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Zenith, News and tagged Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage Zenith ref. 18.2211.8805/36.C713 2013.

Experience: Twenty Exceptional Timepieces Sold at Christie's Auction in Geneva. Here's Our In-Depth Review on Them.

With over $30 Million USD —inclusive of buyer's premium— sold in watches, the Important Watches Auction held by Christie's in Geneva on November 11, 2013 was a record breaking and extremely successful auction where most timepieces were sold exceeding their estimates —even Longines watches fetched extremely high amounts. The Important Watches Auction featured 406 lots —not all sold— with 122 Patek Philippe timepieces, 107 Rolex discontinued and modern references, several modern and vintage Panerais, a unique A. Lange & Söhne in stainless steel, Audemars Piguet assorted timepieces, Breguet museum quality watches and a Dürrstein & Co. Glashütte Uhrenfabrik Union Pocket Watch amongst others.

Aurel Bacs, International Head of Christie's Watch Department, mentioned: “On November 10th and 11th, Christie's dispersed over 370 fine watches in an historical ten-hour auction marathon, which set a new record total for any series of watch sales. In the past months, we exhibited highlights in Taiwan, Japan, Hong Kong, New York, Paris, Dubai and in all locations we noticed an ever-growing appetite for high quality collector’s watches. This trend was demonstrated by a fiercer-than-ever competition generated by both experienced and new international bidders, in the room, on the telephone and online."

Now, for your viewing and reading pleasure, here are twenty amazing timepieces —not Patek Philippe— that are just exceptional and worth talking in-depth about. All hammer prices are in USD and are inclusive of the buyer's premium. All images from Christie's.com

1. Rolex "Padellone"  18K Gold Triple Calendar with Moon Phase ref. 8171 from 1962. This watch was produced in a very limited number between 1949 and 1952. With an incredibly sharp case and sharp engravings, this watch is a "safe queen" with only two owners —Father and Son— before the auction. Hammer Price $684,626.

2. Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 "Explorer" dial from 1954. The ref. 6200 is considered by most the real first Submariner. This watch not only features an amazing "Explorer" dial that includes the "Officially Certified Chronometer" writing —perhaps the only known example of this configuration— but it also features the original hands. Hammer Price $527,891. 

3.  Rolex 18K Gold Triple Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 6062 from 1952. This reference features a full calendar on top of the chronograph automatic movement. This watch was produced just for a few years in the 50s and is considered by most collectors as the most important Oyster model ever made by Rolex. Not only this watch comes with a perfectly preserved dial but the watch was also featured in John Goldberger's 100 Superlative Rolex Watches book. Hammer Price $501,769.

4.  A. Lange & Söhne Stainless Steel Double Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph with Power Reserve ref. 404.035X from 2006. This is known to be the only piece ever made of this model in Stainless Steel and included box and papers. It seems like in 2007 A. Lange & Söhne created this one single prototype featuring a stainless steel case. Hammer Price $501,769.

5. Dürrstein & Co. Glashütte Uhrenfabrik Union 18K Pink Gold Ultra Complicated Pocket Watch. This watch is fitted with an Audemars Piguet movement, openface, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split seconds chronograph, moon phases, instantaneous minute recorder, flying fifths of a second and grande and petite sonerie. Audemars Piguet was known to supply complicated ébauches to other companies during the period the watch was made.  This watch took two years to make from 1891 to 1893 and finished right on time for its presentation at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition here in Chicago —the watch comes with the entrance ticket to the fair— where it sold for 5,000 Marks, price of a Villa in Dresden at the time. Hammer Price $475,646. 

6. Rolex Stainless Steel Triple Calendar Chronograph ref. 6236 from 1958. This watch also known as the "Dato-Compax" or "Killy" included the original guarantee papers and is fitted with a two-tone silvered dial. The watch was nicknamed "Killy" as French Olympic skiing legend Jean-Claude Killy sported one of this watches. The three other "Dato-Compax" watches in the series are references 4767, 5036 and 6036.  Produced between 1958 and 1962, this is a rare example with a dial in very good condition with open 6s and 9s. Hammer Price $397,279. 

7. Rolex Stainless Steel Triple Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 6062 from 1953. This is a very rare example as stainless steel models of this reference are quite scarce and this one is in remarkable condition with sharp and crisp serial number and reference engravings between the lugs and a very well preserved original dial. Hammer Price $371,156.

8. Panerai Stainless Steel ref. 3646 "California" dial from 1940. This particular watch is one of the few examples left from the collaboration between Rolex and Panerai. Panerai Radiomir watches like this ref. 3646 were made by Rolex for Panerai and the so-called black lacquered "California" —half Arabic and half Roman numerals— dials were fitted on them. Some of these earlier Radiomir watches do not bear any Rolex markings or hallmarks. It is known, that approximately thirty of these watches ref. 3646 were intended to be presented to high ranking Navy officials during a ceremony. However, the delivery never took place and the watches were forgotten in a warehouse. Rediscovered decades later, these watches that had remained in unused condition are living testament of that era. Hammer Price $358,095.

9. Rolex Milgauss ref. 6541 with "Honeycomb" dial from 1958.  This watch with 'open' papers features the sought-after honeycomb dial, consisting of two cross aluminum layers to protect it even further against magnetic fields. This example in excellent condition, still shows the traditional Rolex chamfers on the lugs. Hammer Price $345,034.

10. Breguet No. 4420 'Montre Simple Plate à Deux Cadrans Excentriques d'Heures et Minutes' 18K Gold and Silver Hunter Case Pocket Watch. This watch was originally sold to His Majesty King George IV of Great Britain on October 3, 1825 for 2,900 Francs. The watch comes with its original red Morocco box no. 4420. According to Christie's "it is unknown when King George IV parted with his watch but it can safely be assumed that he presented it to a member of the Scottish noble family Douglas-Hamilton, most likely to his close acquaintance Alexander Douglas-Hamilton, 10th Duke of Hamilton (1767-1852), a Scottish politician, art collector and well-known dandy. According to entries in Breguet's books, watch no. 4420 was returned for a complete overhaul in 1850 by the Marquis de Douglas, furthermore mentioning "sold in 1825, never returned". In 1851, the crystal was replaced, also by order of the Marquis de Douglas. The watch was then returned to Breguet for a complete overhaul in 1860 by the Dutch de Hamilton and for a servicing in 1863 by the Duchess de Hamilton. After its servicing at Breguet in 1863, the tracks of watch no. 4420 vanish until around 1920-1921 when it reappears in the family of the celebrated inventor, scientist and watch collector Sir David Lionel Salomons (1851-1925)". Hammer Price $318,912.

11.  Panerai Marina Militare ref. 6152/1 made by Rolex in 1955. This watch ref. 6152/1 was exclusively supplied to the Italian navy with or without crown guard with locking lever and with a rounded case band opposed to the case band on the ref. 6152 that features a sharp angle on the center of it. This watch features a simple Rolex crown without crown guard, Rolex movement, 'sandwich' dial and Rolex markings on the case. Following the production of ref. 3646, Panerai requested an improved model without wire lugs and increased water-resistance, the result was ref. 6152 and ref. 6152/1 widely known as the "Luminor" —tritium luminescent material that replaced the Radiomir mix used. Early examples of ref. 6152 still feature the "Radiomir Panerai" signed dials but the majority of these watches feature cases and movements made by Rolex. Most watches supplied to the Italian Naval Forces were requested to bear the designation "Marina Militare" on the dial. Hammer Price $266,667

12. Rolex 18K Gold GMT Master ref. 6542 with Bakelite bezel, Dauphine hands and Champagne dial from 1959.  This fascinating watch all original, barely polished and with box and unsigned papers is as good as any vintage full-set gets. The untouched and unmolested champagne dial features the 'ghost' gold imprinting that is so subtle that it is only visible when holding the watch at certain angle or upon close inspection. The bakelite bezel in excellent condition and the hands with very little corrosion. Hammer Price $266,667. 

13. Bovet 18K Gold, Enamel and Pearl-set Openface Duplex Pocket Watch from 1820. This watch especially made for the Chinese market, combines Bovet's Chinese calibre movement and a finely painted enamel miniature case by enamelist Jean-François-Victor Dupont. During the turmoil of the late Manchu China, Bovet watches became increasingly popular there. Fleurier —Edouard Bovet's hometown— is the European centre for the manufacture of Chinese watches, with several brands dedicated only to that market. This watch features cloisonné, champlevé enamel  and pearl-set borders. Hammer Price $266,667.

14. Rolex 'Patent Pending' Double Red Sea-Dweller ref. 1665 with Prototype Bracelet and Mark I Dial from 1969. The ref. 1665 is a very sought-after watch and it's known that maybe about 150 of this watches were ever made. Since its helium valve had been developed and the patent had been applied, but Rolex had not received final approval the case back features the engraving in parenthesis “Patent Pending". This fantastic reference was only produced between 1969 and 1977. While most Mark I dials on this reference show that the Double Red writing has faded to a light pink or even white color, the dial on this watch is still as red as when it left Rolex. Additionally, this perfect example contains the last three digits of the serial number inside the case back along with the reference number as it should be. Lastly, this rare piece features a prototype bracelet with the Rolex crown located sideways on the clasp. Hammer Price $247,075.

15. Rolex 18K Gold GMT Master ref. 6542 with Bakelite bezel and burgundy brown nipple "Exclamation" Dial with Dauphine hands from 1958. This amazing example with very little polishing features the very desirable and ultra-rare burgundy brown so-called "exclamation" dial with gold printing. For those of you that don't know, the name comes from the luminous dot positioned right underneath the 6 o'clock hour marker making it look like an 'exclamation' symbol. After the US Atomic Energy commission asked Rolex to recall the first batch of the 6542s due to their supposed radiation risk, the dials were marked with a small dot below the six o'clock marker to note that the issue had been corrected. From the second batch on, the watches were either fitted with a dash or with the now well-known 'Swiss T<25' writing that indicated that tritium had been used but that the small amount of it presented no risk to the wearer. Hammer Price $214,422. 

16. Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 "Square Crown Guards" Retailed and Marked by Serpico & Laino from 1959.  This reference was introduced in 1959 featuring crown guards with square ends. It is known that very few of these watches were ever made with this type of crown guards and the serial numbers are in the low 478,000s. This watch fitted with a very well preserved gilt dial comes with the depth rating in silver and the retailer signature 'Serpico y Laino' —from Caracas, Venezuela— above said rating. The case back features a Serpico y Laino engraving as 'S&L ACERO'. The bezel insert features the red triangle at 12 o'clock common only in the Big Crown Submariners ref. 6538. It is very possible that this is the only example of a watch featuring these characteristics. Hammer Price $207,891.

17.  Rolex GMT Master ref. 6542 with Tropical dial, Bakelite bezel, Red Font Calendar disc and no bracelet from 1958. This amazing example comes with a bakelite bezel in very good condition, a highly "tropical" dial with matching hands, a fascinating red font calendar disc but unfortunately no bracelet —the strap does match perfectly the color of the dial. Hammer Price $188,299.

18. Panerai ref. 3646 made by Rolex in 1943. This watch is another one of those Panerai timepieces commissioned to Rolex for its manufacturing. This is one of the so-called "no name" series with blank dial, generally reserved for the German Navy's Special Forces. The watch features a sandwich dial and a smaller than usual crown. Hammer Price $108,844.                                                                  

19. Rolex Submariner ref. 6204 from 1963 . This watch features pencil hands and seconds lollipop hand, there is no depth rating on the dial and it features the bezel with no graduation on the first 15 minutes. Hammer Price $72,109. 

20. Longines Stainless Steel Monopusher Flyback Chronograph ref. 5681 from 1950. According to the Archives of Longines this watch has originally sold in Amsterdam, Holland on September 8, 1950. A watch originally designed for military purpose with a chronograph that can be start/stop/reset with just one button. It was surprising to see a Longines fetch such a high amount on money at the auction. Hammer Price $50,340.

In addition to all the fascinating timepieces we featured on this post, there were many more that commanded high amounts and that are true collector's examples of some fascinating references across an array of brands.

As you can imagine, we are already looking forward to the upcoming Christie's auctions in Hong Kong —Important Watches Auction on November 27—, London —Jewelry and Watches Auction on December 11— and New York —Important Watches Auction to be held on December 17, 2013.

For more info on Christie's click here.

Posted on November 12, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News and tagged Rolex Triple Calendar ref. 6236 Rolex Dato-Compax Killy Jean-Claude Killy Rolex ref. 4767 Rolex ref. 5036 Rolex ref. 6036 Rolex Padellone ref. 8171 Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 Explorer Dial Rolex ref. 6062 Triple Calendar with Moon Phase A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Seconds in Stainless Steel Dürrstein & Co. Glashütte Uhrenfabrik Union 18K Pink Gold Rolex ref. 6236 Rolex ref. 6062 Panerai ref. 3646 California Dial Rolex Milgauss ref. 6541 Honeycomb Dial Breguet No. 4420 Heures et Minutes King George IV of Great Britain Watch Sir David Lionel Salomons Panerai Marina Militare ref. 6152/1 Rolex Milgauss ref. 6541 Honeycomb Panerai Marina Militare ref. 6152 Rolex GMT Master ref. 6542 Gold Ghost Dial Bovet Openface Watch Rolex ref. 1665 Patent Pending Double Red Sea-Dweller Rolex ref. 6542 Exclamation Dial Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 Square Crown Guards Rolex Submariner 5512 Serpico y Laino Rolex GMT Master ref. 6542 Tropical Dial Bakelite Bezel Longines Monopusher Chrono ref. 5681 Rolex Submariner ref. 6204 Panerai ref. 3646 German Navy No Name.

Experience: Twenty Amazingly Rare Patek Philippe Timepieces Sold for More Than $12 Million Dollars at Christie's Auction in Geneva.

The Christie's Important Watches Auction held in Geneva today Monday November 11, 2013 included a total of 122 amazing Patek Philippe timepieces of which only ten didn't sell. The total dollar amount fetched by all watches sold at the auction exceeded $30 million, of which Patek Philippe made more than half of it.

For this in-depth review of what happened at the auction around the Patek Philippe timepieces, we have picked the twenty Patek Philippe watches that fetched the highest amounts —all of them above a quarter of a million dollars each— and which all combined, sum up a total amount of $12,020,680 USD. All hammer prices are in USD and are inclusive of the buyer's premium. All images from Christie's.com

1. The star of the auction and the watch that fetched the highest amount was the Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 2499 manufactured in 1951 and encased in 1957. According to the Patek Philippe archives, the watch was originally sold on December 15, 1960. This reference is one of the most legendary Patek references and features raised hard enamel printings of all elements on the dial. Hammer Price $2,160,544.  

2. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1563 with Luminous Breguet numerals, rounded pushers and screw case back from 1947 that was originally sold on June 30, 1950. Few complicated Patek Philippe references are as rare as this reference of which only three examples are known to exist. Hammer Price $1,572,789.

3. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 2499 with Cartier on the dial —probably a unique piece— from 1966 originally sold on April 29, 1968. The watch was sold with Cartier's certificate of authenticity stating that the watch was delivered to Cartier New York in 1968. Hammer Price $1,024,218.

4. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Moon Phases ref. 1518 with an ultra rare two-tone dial —possibly a unique piece dial— from 1950 and originally sold on December 16, 1952. What makes this watch even more desirable is the two-tone silvered dial fitted on this watch, that has never been seen before on any other ref. 1518. The two-tone dial provides a unique visual effect depending on the lighting conditions and the angle at which the light hits the dial. Hammer Price $1,024,218.

5. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 3448 Blue dial —probably a unique piece— with raised gold markers from 1978. The watch originally  sold on November 10, 1978. The uniqueness of this watch —besides the beautiful color of its dial— comes from the fact that it is known that only four watches ref. 3448 were fitted with color dials —other than the traditional silvered— and while three feature champagne dials, it appears like this is the only one with a blue dial. Hammer Price $684,626. 

6.  Patek Philippe 18K Rose Gold Chronograph ref. 530 sold by Astrua Torino in 1941. The ref. 530 was launched in 1937 and it is one of the rarest Patek chronographs, furthermore, the Astrua ref. 530 is one of the most impressive oversized chronographs by this manufacture and it is known that this is the only ref. 530 featuring the Astrua marking on the dial. Additionally, this is the first time that it's been offered at auction and the case and dial are as sharp and original as it gets. Even the lugs still display the original satin finish pointing towards the strap. Hammer Price $658,503. 

7. Patek Philippe Calatrava 18K Pink Gold Dual Time Zone ref. 2597 with independent adjustable second time zone hand manufactured in 1963 but originally sold until January 8, 1981. This particular reference is one of the rarest Pateks ever and it was such unpopular that it was discontinued quite quickly. Interestingly enough, this watch —among other four of this same reference in pink gold— is living testament of that unpopularity as it sat unsold for 18 years after its production. This watch is also the only example to feature luminescent material on its hands. This watch was auctioned in mint unworn and unpolished condition. Hammer Price $501,769.  

8.  Patek Philippe Stainless Steel Chronograph ref. 1463 with Breguet numerals and rounded pushers manufactured in 1945 and originally sold on July 29, 1946. The Breguet numerals on this watch are ultra rare —less than twenty examples in stainless steel known to exist up to date. Described by Italian collectors as the "tasti tondi" for its rounded pushers, this watch was also featured in the book Patek Philippe Steel Watches by John Goldberger, pp. 286 - 287. Hammer Price $501,769.  

9. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 with pink dial from 1940 and originally sold on April 13, 1942. This pink gold reference is one of the rarest Pateks sold at auction and less than ten examples have sold at auction in the last 30 years —only four were fitted with pink dials. Additionally, the watch is a only two-owner watch. Hammer Price $423,401.

10. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Minute Repeater ref. 2524/1 manufactured in 1954 and sold on August 11, 1960. This watch is one of four examples that does not have a seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock and its repeater lever mechanism is activated by pushing it downwards. Hammer Price $397,279.

11. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 2497 with box and papers manufactured in 1953 and originally sold on September 8, 1956. This rare example features a sweep center seconds hand which is very uncommon for this Patek reference. Hammer Price $384,218. 

12. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 1526 with pink dial manufactured in 1948 and originally sold on October 18, 1949. It is known that of this very rare reference in 18K pink gold only a little bit over 200 watches were ever made by Patek and even fewer feature a pink dial like this one. Furthermore, this watch remains in unpolished condition. Hammer Price $345,034.  

13. Patek Philippe 18K Pink Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 with two-tone silvered sector dial manufactured in 1950 and subsequently originally sold on November 1, 1952. The Split Seconds Chronograph is a very rare Patek and this particular watch features a sector/aviator dial that was added after its original purchase to enhance its look even more —completely stunning in our opinion. Hammer Price $331,973.

14. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 2438/1 with box and service papers from 1954 and originally sold on June 23, 1958. This watch just like the ref. 1436 that sold for $428,406 is also a only two-owner watch. This reference is fitted with a screw case back to make it water-resistant. Hammer Price $305,850.

15. Patek Philippe Stainless Steel and 18K Pink Gold Chronograph ref. 130 with two-tone pink dial from 1947. The watch was originally sold on June 25, 1948 and its reference marks the first chronograph to be fitted with calibre 13 and in production from 1936 until 1964. This two-tone model is known to be quite rare and up to date there are only other seven pieces to be known to exist. Hammer Price $305,850. 

16. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 1436 manufactured and sold in 1946. This watch was auctioned with an additional silvered dial that the previous owner had purchased to give the watch a more current look. Hammer Price $292,789.

17. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Minute Repeater ref. 3979 with white porcelain white dial with box and papers. The watch was originally sold on March 30, 1992. This reference was launched in 1989 to commemorate Patek Philippe's 150th anniversary, discontinued only nine years later and replaced by ref. 5078. Hammer Price $292,789. 

18. Patek Philippe Platinum Flared Sides ref. 2442 with diamond-set dial manufactured in 1949 and originally sold on February 11, 1950. This watch is powered by a rare rectangular movement with only 150 watches ever made of which only three examples of the platinum model are known to exist. Hammer Price $292,789. 

19. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Openface Keyless Lever Tourbillon Pocket Watch with Breguet numerals and Bulletin d'Observatoire manufactured in 1930, encased in 1951 and originally sold on December 21, 1951. This watch comes with a certificate from the Geneva Observatory attesting that the pocket watch participated in a timing contest in 1946 obtaining the third prize. for Hammer Price $266,667.

20. Patek Philippe 18K Gold Openface Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph ref. 658 Keyless Lever Pocket Watch with Moon Phases and box manufactured in 1931, encased in 1955 and originally sold on July 18, 1955. This watch is known to be one of only five examples of this reference. Hammer Price $253,605.

 

As expected from such an array of exceptional timepieces, the prices went up through the roof. Congratulations to all the collectors that added this amazing creations to their vaults.

For more info on Christie's click here and for Patek Philippe here.  

Posted on November 11, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Patek Philippe, News and tagged Christie's Important Watches Auction Geneva Patek Philippe ref. 2499 Patek Philippe ref. 1563 Patek Philippe ref. 1518 Patek Philippe ref. 3448 Blue Dial Patek Philippe ref. 530 Astrua Torino Patek Philippe ref. 2597 Adjustable Second Hand Dual Time Patek Philippe ref. 1463 with Breguet Numerals Patek Philippe ref. 1436 Patek Philippe ref. 2524/1 Minute Repeater Patek Philippe ref. 2497 Patek Philippe ref. 1526 Perpetual Calendar Patek Philippe ref. 2438/1 Patek Philippe ref. 130 Two-Tone Watch Patek Philippe Split Seconds Chrono ref. 1436 Patek Philippe Minute Repeater ref. 3979 Patek Philippe ref. 2442 Flared Sides Platinum Patek Philippe Calibre 13 Patek Philippe 18K Gold Openface Keyless Lever Tourbillon Pocket Watch Patek Philippe ref. 658 Pocket Watch.

Making History: Rolex Daytona Paul Newman ref. 6263/6239 From 1969 Sells for $1,089,186 USD at Christie's Rolex Daytona "Lesson One" Auction in Geneva. Over $13 Million Dollars Sold in 50 Timepieces.

Today, November 10, 2013 Surpassing all expectations, the Rolex Daytona "Lesson One" Auction —a prestigious single-themed evening auction featuring 50 exceptional examples of the world's most celebrated chronograph wristwatch, totaled CHF 12,032,850 —$13,248,167 USD— selling 100% by lot and by value, at Christie's Geneva. 

The watch that fetched the highest amount was an all original Rolex Cosmograph Oyster Paul Newman ref. 6263/6239 Case No. 2,197,870 manufactured in 1969 with box and papers selling for $1,089,186 USD. This amount —inclusive of the buyer's premium— as well as the price for any other Rolex Daytona sold at this auction, breaks all previous records set on any auctions of this reference up to date.

Created by Aurel Bacs to mark the 50th anniversary of Rolex's most iconic model, this unique sale presented only the best and most mythical Daytona wristwatches ever produced. Aurel Bacs, who is the International Head of Christie's Watch Department, commented: “Christie's first ever evening auction dedicated to wristwatches proved an unprecedented success. With four hundred people in the saleroom and plenty more queuing outside, I rarely experienced a similar rock concert atmosphere from the rostrum. Possibly the most rigorously curated watch auction ever staged, each lot was selected by Christie's watch department in partnership with Mr. Pucci Papaleo according to a disciplined approach to originality, condition and provenance. Setting 50 world records for 50 watches as well as achieving an absolute record price for any Rolex Daytona ever sold at auction, Rolex Daytona "Lesson One" will be remembered as an historical event”.

Along with this amazing ref. 6263/6239 Paul Newman from 1969, other fascinating Daytonas fetched serious money above the $150,000 USD range all of them exceeding their estimates. In second place comes an extremely rare Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 from 1974 especially made for Sultan Qaboos Bin Said Al Said with box —sold by Asprey to Oman— selling for $864,521 USD —inclusive of the buyer's premium. 

In third place, an extremely rare Rolex Daytona with pulsations dial from 1967 ref. 6239 sold at $838,090 USD —inclusive of the buyer's premium.

Below you will find six other Daytonas that fetched the highest amounts above the $400,000 USD range. The estimates on all these watches were exceeded, fetching amounts two to three times higher than those estimates.

For more info on Christie's click here.

Posted on November 10, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Rolex & Tudor, News and tagged Christie's Auction Geneva Rolex Paul Newman ref. 6263/6239 Rolex Daytona Lesson One Christie's Auction Geneva Rolex Daytona Pulsations Dial ref. 6239 from 1967 Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 Sultan of Oman from 1974 2013.

News: MB&F Unveils the Horological Machine No.5 RT in Red Gold. A New Limited Edition of Only 66 Pieces.

Press Release

Horological Machine No.5 is back 'On the Road Again', with a new 'RT' limited edition in red gold. After the original HM5 in zirconium presented in 2012, most would wonder why is the manufacture crafting another 66 pieces in red gold? Well, gold is highly resistant to corrosion; it conducts heat or electricity and reflects infrared radiation. Gold is highly malleable: a single gram can be beaten into a sheet of 1 micron. Gold is precious: all the gold ever mined in human history would fit in a cube of just 21 meters on each side. But let's get to the point: the real reason why MB&F is crafting this edition in red gold is because they think it looks damn beautiful!

HM5 RT is full of surprises: Hour and minute displays look straightforward, but they are bi-directional jumping hours with indications inverted, reflected 90° and magnified 20%. HM5 RT has a futuristic case design, but it’s from the 1970s. HM5 RT has a mechanical movement, but inspired by an era when quartz was King. The rear louvers on super cars block light, but on HM5 RT they let light in. Befitting its automotive heritage, HM5 RT has exhaust pipes, but they drain water. The gold endowing the HM5 RT case with such a rich lustrous glow was found on earth, but was actually created billions of years ago in deep space.

While we might still be waiting for flying cars, with the HM5 RT you can put a high-tech golden super car on your wrist! As with any super car, the best often lies under the hood and ‘lifting the hood’ of the HM5 RT case reveals a surprise: an inner case! Like a Russian Matryoshka doll, peeling away one layer reveals a second case in titanium. The reason for housing the Engine in an inner container is for water resistance. Those super car louvers let in water as well as light —the reason for those dual exhaust ports— so to protect the high-performance Engine from moisture as well as shocks, it is housed in its own titanium shell. This inner case is similar to the rigid chassis of a car on which the external coachwork/body is attached. Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Boucard and the team at Chronode developed the HM5 Engine. It may appear simple, but it’s complicated! Jumping hours are bi-directional, enabling the time to be easily set both forwards and backwards. The two mineral glass disks of the hours and minutes are supported by a flat wide bridge. The disks overlap to maximize their diameter and space for large legible numerals. Turning HM5 RT over reveals the Engine, with its 22k gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ winding rotor, fast oscillating balance and stunning hand-finished bridges, through a sapphire crystal display back that is set into the water resistant container.

Horological Machine No. 5 RT retains all the key features of  the HM5: a hand-finished automatic movement with bi-directional jumping hours; a vertical time display reflected and magnified by a sapphire crystal optical prism; 'light convector' flaps which allow to charge the superluminova hour and minute discs and to compensate for the higher weight of the external red gold case, they've modified the inner protective compartment from stainless steel to titanium. While HM5 RT has a generously sized 51.5mm x 49mm case and gold is known for its weight as much as its beauty, thanks to the discrete use of ultra-light titanium, HM5 RT is a very comfortable machine to wear.

Technical Specifications

ENGINE

Three-dimensional horological engine developed by Jean-François Mojon and Vincent Boucard of Chronode. Powered by a Sowind gear train. Battle-axe 22k gold ‘mystery ’ automatic winding rotor.

Power reserve: 42 hours

Balance frequency: 28,800bph/4Hz

Number of components: 224

Number of jewels: 30

Engine housed in a water resistant, titanium inner container

FUNCTIONS / INDICATIONS

Minutes and bi-directional jumping hours displayed by reflective sapphire crystal prism with integrated magnifying lens. Slide to open/close louvers on case top.

CASE

18K Red gold and titanium with internal water resistant titanium engine container. Slide button to open/close louvers. Exhaust ports to drain water.

Dimensions: 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm

Number of components: 80

Water resistance of engine container: 30 meters

SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS

Smoked optical grade sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and 20% magnification. Sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.

STRAP & BUCKLE

Sculptured rubber strap, titanium tang buckle.

 

Sticker Price $82,000 USD. For more info on MB&F click here. 

Posted on November 7, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, MB&F and tagged MB&F Horological Machine No.5 RT MB&F HM5RT Red Gold MB&F HM5 RT Limited Edition 66 Pieces Chronode Jean-Francois Mojon Vincent Boucard Maximilian Büsser & Friends Eric Giroud.

News: Armin Strom Presents the Gravity Fire. A Limited Edition of 100 Pieces with a Micro Rotor.

Armin Strom Gravity is the first watch from the Biel-based Manufacture to feature an automatic winding mechanism with a micro-rotor. With this first series of automatic watches driven by the Manufacture’s new AMR13 calibre, Armin Strom wanted to express the essence of a fundamental law of physics —that of gravity. Thus, the laws of gravity are used in an automatic watch to transform movements into a mode of indicating the time. However, the Armin Strom Gravity does not simply provide a glimpse of how this transformation works, rather, the dial is designed to proudly display the micro-rotor, which captures the power of the movements and transforms them into energy. The visibility of this mechanism is made possible thanks to an innovative concept of transmission for the rotor, which remains smaller in size than the diameter of the going barrel.

The Armin Strom Gravity collection is available in four colors that represent the four elements: Fire, Earth, Water and Air. The Armin Strom Gravity boasts the same exceptional level of finishing that has contributed to the reputation of the brand and of its eponymous founder. This is a timepiece that will appeal to connoisseurs of fine watchmaking wishing to celebrate the movement in all its forms.

Technical Specifications of the Armin Strom ref. RG13-GF.90 Gravity Fire

Manufacture movement
Armin Strom Calibre AMR13: Automatic, 5-day power reserve, small seconds and off-centered time indications
Frequency: 18,000 A/h
Jewels: 32
Number of components: 171

Case
18K Rose gold
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 43.40 mm
Total height: 13.00 mm
Water-resistance: 50 m

Dial ring
Black with founded appliques

Hands
Mirror polished

Straps
Delivered with a genuine brown alligator horn-back strap and 18K rose gold ardillon buckle as well as an additional brown rubber strap. A double-fold clasp in 18K rose gold is available on option.

Edition
Limited to 100 pieces

For more info on Armin Strom click here.  

Posted on November 7, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Armin Strom and tagged Armin Strom Gravity Armin Strom AMR13 Calibre Armin Strom Micro Rotor Armin Strom Fire Earth Water Air Armin Strom RG13-GF.90 Gravity Fire 2013.

News: Jaeger-LeCoultre is The Official Sponsor of the 120th Argentine Polo Open of Palermo.

Press Release 

In 2013, Jaeger-LeCoultre enjoys the honour of becoming the official sponsor and timekeeper of the 120th Argentine Polo Open of Palermo – the oldest polo tournament in the world, which is celebrating its 120th anniversary this year. From November 16th to December 7th 2013, polo aficionados will be able to enjoy this fascinating championship featuring three weeks of competition pitting the world’s eight best teams against each other. The event created in 1893 was initially named the River Plate Polo Championship and acquired its definitive name in 1923 when the River Plate Polo Association became the Argentine Polo Association. Ever since, the Open of Palermo is held each year at the Campo Argentino de Polo in Palermo, a Buenos Aires district popularly known as the 'Cathedral of Polo'. The polo stadium can accommodate up to 16,000 spectators during the tournament around the two grass playing fields providing an oasis of greenery amid the Buenos Aires skyscrapers. 

Organized by the Argentine Polo Association —AAP—, the Argentine Polo Open of Palermo is the world’s most prestigious polo tournament. Together with the Tortugas Open-Argentina and the Hurlingham, the Argentine Polo Open of Palermo form the famous Argentine Triple Crown, one of the most spectacular and eagerly awaited fixtures on the annual polo calendar and reserved exclusively for teams with a 28 to 40-goal handicap.

No watch can claim to be as closely linked to the world of polo as the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre. It was created in 1931 at the request of British colonial army officers in India who were tired of seeing their watches damaged by their polo matches – thereby sparking the invention of the famous swiveling case that protected the glass and dial by exposing only the metal back to potential knocks. Ever since, the ties between the legendary reversible case and polo have remained deeply embedded in the DNA of the Reverso watch, which has constantly evolved and adapted to changing times. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre is more inseparably bound up than ever with polo through its regular involvement in sporting partnerships around the world thanks to its internationally recognized ambassadors such as Argentinean polo player Eduardo Novillo Astrada.

For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here. 

Posted on November 7, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Jaeger-LeCoultre and tagged Eduardo Novillo Astrada Argentine Polo Association Argentine Polo Open of Palermo Tortugas Open Argentina 120th Argentine Polo Open of Palermo Cathedral of Polo Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso 2013.

News: The Poinçon de Genève Launched New Website Today. More Than a Million Timepieces Bear the Poinçon Today.

Press Release

More than 125 years after its promulgation by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Genève, the Poinçon de Genève remains the oldest watchmaking certificate in the world, issued by a neutral and independent organization operating under State control. Since it was updated in 2011, it is also the only official certification that guarantees a watch’s quality of craftsmanship, chronometric precision and principal functions by checking each timepiece individually.

At the end of the 16th century, Geneva acquired a reputation of excellence in international watchmaking. Its name alone had a magical effect, and was soon being exploited by unscrupulous manufacturers. To combat such abuse and counterfeiting, the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Genève officially introduced the Poinçon de Genève on 6 November 1886. Generally stamped on one of the watch components such as the bridge or baseplate, the Poinçon de Genève was exclusively reserved for mechanical watches that had been assembled, adjusted, cased up and checked in the Canton. More than a seal of approval, it embodied the spirit of the 'cabinotiers': the independent watchmakers based in the Saint-Gervais district who formed the dedicated aristocracy of the working class and who elevated watchmaking to an art form. 

The Poinçon de Genève is currently the only watchmaking label to benefit from State guarantee. Today, this responsibility is fulfilled by TIMELAB, the Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Micro-engineering. The inspection criteria are drawn up by a Technical Commission made up of seven experts appointed for their knowledge and expertise in fine watchmaking. Their purpose, according to Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, founder and director of the company Agenhor and member of the Commission, “is not so much to define standards as to ensure the great tradition of Swiss watchmaking is preserved and respected. The Poinçon de Genève offers the assurance that a watch has been designed and manufactured according to the rules.”

In 2011, to mark the Poinçon’s 125th anniversary, the Technical Commission announced it was updating the rules to take into account technical progress and recent developments in the watchmaking industry. To complement the rigorous criteria of craftsmanship set out in 1886, it added tests on the finished watch: functions, water resistance, power reserve and accuracy. The Poinçon de Genève now covers the aesthetic, technical and functional aspects of the watch and is the only watchmaking certificate that guarantees the quality of decoration and the proper functioning of the watch, which is fully tested and checked individually in simulated on-wrist conditions.

The incredibly strict criteria of the Poinçon de Genève mean that certification is the prerogative of fine watches made by "manufactures" and independent watchmakers based in Geneva. The brands that comply with the certification standards undertake to respect its philosophy, right down to the design and development of their timepieces. In return, the Poinçon and accompanying certificate provide their clients with objective, irrefutable and internationally recognised proof of the quality of their craftsmanship and the correct functioning of their timepieces.

Since 1886, every watch stamped with the Poinçon de Genève has been delivered with a certificate of origin. Since September 2013 it has also included a unique authentication key and QR code. These enable the purchaser to check the authenticity of the document and the watch’s certification before buying it by consulting a database available on the website. Produced using an innovative procedure that combines holographic and hot stamping techniques, the certificate is almost impossible to forge.

Commemorating the 127th anniversary of the passing of the law of 1886, the Poinçon de Genève launched its website. The new website features a history section that traces the evolution of the Poinçon from the time of the “Fabrique” —late 16th century. A technical section explains the approval criteria and to ensure full transparency, it details the different stages and working methods of the individual functional tests and the people who carry them out. In addition, there is an international database that covers all watches that have received the Poinçon since September 2013. A major effort is currently underway to create an archive of all watches approved since 1886 —more than a million timepieces.

Some of the brands that currently submit their timepieces for the Poinçon de Genève are Cartier, Chopard, Roger Dubuis and Vacheron Constantin.

To check the Poinçon de Genève new website click here.

Posted on November 6, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News and tagged Canton of Geneve Poinçon de Genève Geneva Seal Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Genève TIMELAB Jean-Marc Wiederrecht Agenhor.

News: Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia Zagato. Two 500-piece Limited Edition Watches.

From the exclusive partnership between Chopard and luxury automotive designer Zagato, comes the 500-piece limited-edition Mille Miglia Zagato. Since its founding in 1919, Zagato has collaborated with the most prestigious automobile manufacturers, creating icons of the road which have taken home the Mille Miglia trophy in the 1930s and as recently as 2012. Inspired by the company's current crop of esteemed automobiles, this exceptional timepiece ref. 168550-6001 in DLC blackened stainless steel and 18-karat rose gold features the Zagato logo on both the case back and grill-inspired dial, curved chronograph counters reminiscent of a Zagato roof and a red pusher, for a distinct nod to the racing world.

Exclusive, robust and technically impressive, the Mille Miglia Zagato watch is the product of the partnership between Chopard and that legend of Italian automobile design, the bodyshop Zagato. While Chopard takes care of the model’s "performance", “engine “and "frame", Zagato helps create its "bodywork", "interior" and "upholstery". Much more than an ad-hoc collaboration, this limited series is defined by both the Grand Turismo style of Zagato and the timekeeping discipline of Chopard.

It was along the route of the legendary Mille Miglia road race that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Co-President of Chopard, met with Andrea Zagato, the third generation in his family to head the Milan-based automobile body design firm. Chopard is the official timekeeper of the Mille Miglia race, in which the family has participated for the last 25 years. It was from here that the idea came of collaborating on a watch to celebrate their shared passion for automobiles and the values embodied by the Mille Miglia.

Sticker Price $9,900 USD for DLC Blackened Stainless Steel with 18K rose gold ref. 168550-6001 and $8,100 USD for DLC Blackened Stainless Steel ref. 168550-300.

For more info on Chopard click here.  

 

Posted on October 30, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Other Brands and tagged Chopard ref. 168550-3004 Chopard ref. 168550-6001.

News: U-BOAT Opens Boutique at the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Another Italian Landmark.

Press Release

U-BOAT opens another Italian landmark in the Ponte Vecchio historical bridge in Florence.

Being present in Florence, capital of the Renaissance, means a lot for all the prestigious brands but even more for Italo Fontana, creative soul behind U-BOAT, and since the beginning standard bearer of the “Made in Tuscany” values.

Italo, born in the near medieval city of Lucca, announces the opening of the U-BOAT third italian flagship store. The boutique, opens its doors in the short and popular pedestrian Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence spanning the River Arno. It is one of the few remaining bridges with houses built upon.

The opening follows the opening of the Italian boutiques in Milan, Corso Como and also overseas with the recent launch of its 18th boutique in the fashionista Nathan Rd. in Hong Kong.

For more info on U-BOAT click here.  

Posted on October 22, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Watch Shopping and tagged U-BOAT Boutique Florence Ponte Vecchio Italo Fontana 2013.

News: Michael P. Sarp President of the Board of Armin Strom Passes. Our Condolences to His Family and Friends.

Press Release

The Armin Strom AG Manufacture is sad to announce the death of Mr. Michael P. Sarp on October 17, 2013 at the age of 65.

Mr. Sarp had been President of the Board of Armin Strom AG since 2010. With his death, the world of watchmaking acknowledges the passing of a leading personality who understood the industry particularly well.

The Armin Strom AG team has lost a mentor and someone who was extra special in all of our eyes. We shall remember his radiant capacity to communicate and dialogue with people, his greatest passion. His presence among the Armin Strom AG team over recent years made a decisive impact on the existence of the company.

We extend our most sincere condolences to his family and friends. Sincerely, the board of administration, the executive board and all employees of Armin Strom AG.

For more info on Armin Strom click here.  

 

Posted on October 22, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Armin Strom and tagged Armin Strom AG Michael P. Sarp Michael P. Sarp President of the Board Armin Strom.

News: Richard Mille Introduces the RM055 Bubba Watson Limited Edition for the Americas. 30-Pieces Available of Each Red Drive and White Drive.

Press Release

Richard Mille expands his line of watches created in collaboration with Bubba Watson, the PGA golfer with the longest drive on the tour, with the introduction of two new limited edition versions of the RM055 available exclusively in North and South America.

All of the previous watches created with Bubba Watson—RM038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson, RM038 Tourbillon Victory Watch, and RM055 Bubba Watson—feature stark white cases, bezels and straps. The new limited editions take a 180-degree turn, and are recognizable for their all-black cases and straps with few, bright details. A red flange forms a colorful frame around the skeletonized manual-wound movement of the RM055 Bubba Watson Red Drive limited edition, while a white flange provides a halo around the RM055 Bubba Watson White Drive limited edition’s movement.

Both timepieces feature a case made from black rubberized grade-5 titanium, and a bezel constructed from black ceramic. A black DLC titanium and rubber crown, black rubber strap and black PVD- and Titalyt-treated movement complete the stealth look of the watches. Inside the case of each RM055 beats the caliber RMUL2, which is capable of withstanding accelerations of over 500 Gs, allowing it to perform on the wrist of a golfer with a massive drive.

The movement is equipped with a variable-inertia balance wheel, which ensures reliability in the event of impacts and during assembly and dismantling, thus improving the long-term accuracy of the timepiece. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable inertia adjustment is possible thanks to four small adjustable weights located directly on the balance wheel. The double barrel mechanism helps to improve and equalize long-term torque stability: This is achieved by dispersing the stored energy within two winding barrels, equalizing torque as well as reducing pressure and friction on the bearings and pivots, resulting in improved long-term performance. The distinct construction of the RM055’s case is designed to meet the demanding requirements of sportsmen. The case middle and back are in grade 5 titanium with a protective black rubber casing. This rubber is injected at high pressure around the titanium components, thus insulating the movement from all vibrations. This special surface treatment also makes the watch very comfortable to wear.
 
Richard Mille will produce 30 examples of the RM055 Bubba Watson Red Drive and 30 examples of the RM055 Bubba Watson White Drive. The limited editions are available at authorized Richard Mille retailers in North and South America, as well as the Richard Mille boutiques in Beverly Hills and Las Vegas.

Sticker Price $115,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.  

Posted on October 16, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Richard Mille, News and tagged Richard Mille RM055 Bubba Watson Limited Edition Richard Mille Bubba Watson Red Driver Richard Mille Bubba Watson White Driver Richard Mille Bubba Watson.

News: Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas Now Open. Aria Resort & Casino at City Center.

Press Release

On September 23rd, 2013 Richard Mille expanded its presence in America by opening the country’s second Richard Mille boutique: The Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas.
 The new boutique is located within Las Vegas’ most exclusive luxury shopping venue —the Shops at Crystals— adjacent to the ARIA Resort & Casino at City Center on the world-famous Las Vegas Strip.

Upon entering the boutique, guests encounter a 7 ft. tall sculpture modeled after a Richard Mille mechanical movement. The decor of the entire space adheres to Richard Mille’s warm and functional design identity, featuring such contemporary materials as Makassar wood, steel, stone and glass. A massive carved glass sculpture in the shape of Richard Mille’s most iconic watch draws the eye to the center of the store, while high-tech anti-reflective glass showcases provide ideal settings throughout the space for each timepiece on display.

The complete collection of Richard Mille watches for men and women is presented at the new boutique, including such limited editions as the RM 27-01 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal, RM 038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson, RM 59-01 Tourbillon Yohan Blake, and RM 036 Tourbillon Jean Todt G-Sensor. Additionally, Richard Mille has created a series of one-of-a-kind RM 52-01 Tourbillon Skull Nano-Ceramic timepieces, for sale exclusively at the Las Vegas location.

The Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas, within The Shops at Crystals, is located at 3720 South Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas, Nevada, and is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to midnight.

For more on Richard Mille click here.

Posted on October 11, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Watch Shopping, Richard Mille, News and tagged Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas Aria Resort & Casino City Center Richard Mille RM27-01 Rafael Nadal Limited Edition Richard Mille RM59-01 Tourbillon Yohan Blake Richard Mille RM52-01 Tourbillon Skull Nano-Ceramic Richard Mille.

News: Richard Mille Unveils New Material in Watchmaking. NTPT Carbon To Be Utilized on the RM011.

Press Release

This fall, Richard Mille announces a brand new material to watchmaking named NTPT® —North Thin Ply Technology— carbon to create the first RM011 NTPT® carbon case. Richard Mille will soon unveil a version of its popular RM011 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in an entirely new case using this material.

Originally developed for the sails of racing yachts, NTPT® carbon has quickly become a must-have material in nautical circles. Sails manufactured from this substance are highly resistant and light, and have thus enabled the giants of the seas to claim the finishing lines of the world’s greatest regattas. NTPT® carbon, which has become a reference in composite materials, has been used for Formula 1 car chassis for the last two seasons, and in aeronautics for the fuselage of the future Solar Impulse 2 aircraft. NTPT® carbon is an exclusive material with a unique appearance. Its remarkable surface displays extremely regular undulations, as NTPT® carbon is composed of multiple layers of parallel filaments obtained by dividing carbon fibers. These layers, with a maximum thickness of 30 microns, are impregnated with resin then woven on a special machine that modifies the direction of the weft by 45° between layers, creating this distinctive visual effect that is reminiscent of precious wood. Heated to 120°C at a pressure of 6 bars, the NTPT® is then ready to be processed on a CNC machine in Richard Mille’s Proart case factory.
 
When compared to composite materials, whose exceptional physical properties are already well known, NTPT® carbon improves the rate of occurrence of breaking stresses by 25% and of micro-cracks by 200%. The NTPT® fully protects the RMAC1 automatic caliber, which is recognizable by its large date at 12 o’clock, its month display at 4 o’clock and its flyback chronograph. The movement, made entirely of titanium, has a 55-hour power reserve provided by its double-barrel system wound by a variable geometry rotor.

The new RM 011 Carbon NTPT® introduces innovative technical solutions that are essential to modern watchmaking. This new material has never been used in watchmaking before.

For more info on Richard Mille click here.  

Posted on October 10, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Richard Mille, News and tagged Richard Mille New NTPT Carbon Case Richard Mille Unveils New Material Richard Mille NTPT Carbon Richard Mille Calibre RMAC1 Richard Mille Proart Case Factory Richard Mille RM011 Flyback Chronograph 2013.