There's something deliciously rebellious about covering a sports watch in diamonds. It breaks all the old rules about when and where precious stones belong, and Vacheron Constantin has just made the most compelling case yet for this modern aesthetic with their first fully gem-set Overseas 35 mm self-winding models.
The oldest watch manufacture in the world unveils two spectacular versions: one in 18K white gold ref. 4617V/215G-H039 and another in 18K 5N pink gold ref. 4617V/215R-H040, each absolutely ablaze with 1,430 diamonds totaling approximately 12.58 carats. This isn't simply a watch with stones on the bezel; it is a masterclass in high-jewelry watchmaking that transforms the entire timepiece into a luminous sculpture.
The artistry begins with the signature Maltese cross bezel, highlighted by 60 invisibly set baguette-cut diamonds—approx. 2.28 carats. This setting technique is particularly challenging as gem-setters create ultra-thin gold rails just 0.2 mm to 0.4 mm thick and cut tiny V-shaped grooves into each diamond with a tolerance of only 0.02 millimeters. The stones appear to float seamlessly with no visible metal, a process so meticulous that it can take several hours for a single stone.
Against this framework, the dial presents 314 brilliant-cut diamonds—approx. 1.65 carats—in snow setting—an intricate technique in which stones of varying diameters are placed in what appears random but is actually precisely calculated to minimize metal visibility and maximize light refraction. Twelve baguette-cut diamond hour markers complete the dial, while the case lugs and integrated bracelet add 884 brilliant-cut diamonds—approx 6.95 carats—, with each bracelet link individually set before assembly.
The 35 mm case, measuring 8.43 mm thick, houses the Manufacture calibre 1088/1. This 144-component automatic movement operates at 28,800 vph with a 40-hour power reserve and displays hours, minutes, central seconds, and a date aperture. The movement's Côtes de Genève decoration and beveled bridges are visible through the sapphire case back, along with the collection's emblematic 22K gold compass-rose oscillating weight.
True to the Overseas DNA, versatility remains paramount. Each watch includes two additional interchangeable straps. The white gold version with a brilliant blue alligator leather, the pink gold with fuchsia, plus white rubber straps. The diamond-set pin buckle with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds—approx 0.33 carats fits any strap in the owner's collection via the tool-free quick-change system. The bracelet features the easy-fit micro-adjustment for perfect comfort.
Sticker Price Upon Request. For more information on Vacheron Constantin, click here.
