News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Ulysse Nardin Presents the Dual Time Manufacture. A Fascinating Dual Time Complication.

The Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture has being released as a pre-Baselworld first look. This timepiece enables the second time zone and date to be adjusted both forward and backward. Like the Marine collection, it is now equipped with a movement that has been developed and manufactured entirely in-house. Never before had a watchmaker so perfectly fulfilled the desire for comfort of frequent travelers and explorers. Part of an iconic Ulysse Nardin collection, the launch of the Dual Time Manufacture was a significant milestone in the history of contemporary watchmaking. For the first time, it was possible to adjust the second time zone forward as well as backward. Now, this incredible timepiece returns equipped with an automatic movement that has been developed, designed and manufactured entirely in-house: caliber UN-334. Endowed with a Big Date double window display, also adjustable in both directions, it boasts a silicon escapement, the height of watchmaking technology that very few brands are able to master. Complex to work with, its manufacturing techniques remain the prerogative of just a handful of watchmakers. The self-winding movement, a technological gem, is showcased through a sapphire case-back.

Independence through innovation: the Ulysse Nardin Manufacture constantly pursues the steep but extraordinarily worthwhile path it chose to take a few years ago. Offering hours, minutes, oversized small seconds at 6 o’clock, a big date double window display and second time zone functions, the Dual Time Manufacture is without doubt one of the easiest watches to read and adjust on the market. While the “home time” indicator advances steadily over 24 hours in an aperture at 9 o’clock, the small hand can easily be aligned with local time, either forward or backward. This is achieved simply by pressing the (+) or (-) pushers positioned at 10 o'clock and 8 o’clock, without having to remove the watch from the wrist or interrupting its timekeeping. The ultimate in mechanical refinement, the calendar function automatically synchronizes with adjustments made in either direction.

Behind this simplicity of use —a true lesson in functionality— the Manufacture caliber UN-334 deploys the results of many years of research. Featuring a 48-hour power reserve, it is equipped with a silicon anchor, escape wheel and roller. The 4 Hz oscillator also has a patented 1.1.1. silicon balance spring, guaranteeing impressive accuracy. Having made its watchmaking début a little over 10 years ago thanks to the pioneering efforts of Ulysse Nardin, this highly contemporary material requires hardly any lubrication and resists wear more than any other.

The bold modernity of this outstanding timepiece is complemented by a few classic touches, for an air of casual elegance. This chameleon-like piece is equally suited to a day in town or an important occasion. Water resistant to 30 m, its completely redesigned 42 mm-diameter case is available in steel or 18 ct rose gold, mounted on a leather strap or a steel or rose gold bracelet with deployment buckle. While ensuring perfect readability, the openwork hour and minute hands that sweep around the black or silver-finish dial add a delicate, light touch that characterizes truly timeless watches. This chameleon-like piece is equally suited to a day in town or an important occasion.

For more info on Ulysse Nardin click here.

Posted on February 5, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Baselworld, News, Ulysse Nardin and tagged Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture Ulysse Nardin Calibre UN-334.

News: Panerai Presents the Luminor Sealand Special Edition PAM 847. Honoring the Year of the Horse with a 100 Piece Limited Edition.

Officine Panerai is pleased to present a special edition timepiece dedicated to the Year of the Horse - the PAM 00847 Luminor Sealand – with a 44 mm diameter case. The classic and iconic Luminor case features a hinged cover protector with a horse symbol hand engraved by Italian master craftsmen. The technique of engraving is particularly painstaking – the grooves are made in the steel by a special tool called a 'sparsello' before being inlaid with threads of gold. The gold is inserted in repeated parallel layers and hammered until it completely fills the engraved outlines, thus defining and filling out the form of the horse. The process of inlaying the gold is carried out only after the cover has been engraved and polished, when even the smallest error could damage the work carried out earlier, so the work demands remarkable skill on the part of the craftsmen.

Few places in the world can pride themselves on a history and richness comparable to Florence. Emblematic of the Italian Renaissance and birthplace of some of the greatest geniuses of all time, Tuscany’s great city has inspired generations of thinkers and artists who have given the world many works of extraordinary beauty throughout the centuries. The excellence of Florence, like that of Italy in general, is always at its best in the combination of genius, craftsmanship, creativity and technical expertise in all forms of artistic expression. The Panerai Bottega in Florence, the first watch shop in the city, is still nourished by this culture, constantly striving towards its mission of balancing tradition and innovation.

This excellence of craftsmanship and Italian know-how is linked with Chinese culture in the Luminor Sealand. Dedicated to the Year of the Horse, the new Special Edition timepiece is limited to just 100 units and is part of the series created by Officine Panerai in honor of the signs of the Chinese Zodiac. The watch is the sixth in the exclusive series, which began in 2009 with the Special Edition created for the year of the Ox, followed by watches commemorating the year of the Tiger, the Rabbit, the Dragon and the Snake.

The protective conceals the minimalist grey dial which, in the classic Panerai style, features only a small seconds dial and date. This is fitted in a Luminor 44 mm case which, along with the device protecting the winding crown, is made entirely of brushed AISI 316L stainless steel. The movement is the OP III calibre, hand-wound with a power reserve of 42 hours and C.O.S.C. certified. Available exclusively in Panerai boutiques throughout the world, the Luminor Sealand —PAM00847— is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters and it is supplied with a strap of soft brown leather, a second spare strap and a screwdriver.

For more info on Panerai click here.

Posted on February 4, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Panerai, News and tagged Panerai Luminor Sealand PAM 847 2014 Chinese New Year.

Rare Bird: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatique Tourbillon 25th Anniversary. Only Five Pieces Ever Made in 18K Rose Gold.

During our week in Geneva attending the SIHH 2014, we ran into some very interesting timepieces, some highly collectible grails and one watch in particular, that took our breath away. While meeting with one of our special friends from Audemars Piguet, we had the opportunity to peruse, perhaps one of the most unique and rare Royal Oaks ever made, the Royal Oak Automatique Tourbillon 25th Anniversary ref. 25831 of which only 5 pieces were ever made in 18K rose gold to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the creation of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. This exceptional limited edition watch was produced in very limited quantities in stainless steel —only 25 pieces—, 18K yellow gold —5 pieces—, 950 platinum —5 with blue dial and 5 with salmon dial— and it is the only Royal Oak Tourbillon fitted with an automatic calibre. It is also known, that there's one unique piece in a combination of 18K rose gold and 18K white gold created specifically for the Sultan of Brunei.

This particular watch bearing serial number 1 comes with an 18K rose gold case measuring 40 mm in diameter, an ivory off-white 'petite tapisserie' dial with off-centered hours and minutes, date indicator at 3, power reserve indicator at 9 and a tourbillon at 6 o'clock that is framed by a miniature squeezed octagonal Royal Oak bezel. The hands on the date and power reserve indicators are blued and the markers and hands on the off-centered hour/minute dial are fitted with luminescent material.

In case you have not noticed yet, the peculiarity of this timepiece, is that it lacks of a winding crown on the case band at 3 o'clock. In order to wind and set the time, the watch is fitted with a special crown on the case back right above the Royal Oak engraving. This timepiece is powered by the Audemars Piguet automatic calibre 2875 and it is known to be the only automatic Royal Oak Tourbillon ever made.

On the wrist, this watch is nothing but perfect. We were even lucky enough to make it fit on our wrist for the mandatory wrist shot. As some of you like to say on the watch forums: "wrist shot or it didn't happen". Well, here's a wrist shot for those of you wondering if this really happened or not, for those of you still wondering whether this is a day dream, just pinch yourselves twice to make sure you it is not and you are indeed reading this post.

Sticker Price 'Priceless'. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Posted on February 4, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet and tagged Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon 25th Anniversary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon ref. 25831 Audemars Piguet Calibre 2875 2014.

SIHH 2104: A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase. Live Pictures and Pricing.

During the SIHH 2014 in Geneva, A. Lange & Söhne officially unveiled the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase that gives the exactly calculated to 122.6 years moon phase display a shiny appearance on the dial. A patented method of coating the moon's disk gives this astronomical complication a highly detailed appearance. The moon is a fascinating celestial body. It determines not only the tides, but also affects the rhythm of life of many creatures and plants. A moon phase display is therefore highly appreciated by many watch lovers. This new watch is available in three different metals: platinum, 18K pink gold and 18K yellow gold.

Since its relaunch, the Saxon manufacture has presented twelve models with such a complication. However, never before the moon phase display has been so prominent as it is in the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase. The popular astronomical display received a large stage on the dial. You can now clearly see how the moon phase display follows the actual phases of the moon in a remarkably realistic manner because it is linked to the continuum of the hour. Thus, it is — just like the moon itself— always on the move and in such small steps that you cannot detect this movement with the naked eye.

In addition, the moon phase indicator represents the time from new moon to new moon with an accuracy of 99.9978 percent. 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds , the average synod lunar months. For simplicity, the cycle is therefore rounded in most classical moon phase displays to 29.5 days. This leads per cycle to a deviation of 44 minutes and 3 seconds, which adds up after two and a half years to one day. The much more accurately calculated seven-gear on the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase reduces the deviation per lunar cycle to less than a minute. Once set up properly, you would have to correct the display by one day after 122.6 years. With a corrector push piece between 7 and 8 o'clock on the case band, the display can be adjusted.

The solid gold moon disc testifies the perfection claim of the Lange product developers. The result of extensive research and development work is a patented coating process that through an unparalleled color brilliance and sharpness of all the details meets the highest aesthetic standards. Due to interference effects —the superposition of reflections— all non-blue color components of the incoming daylight are absorbed. So is in the eye of the beholder an intensely blue color impression. The more than 300 stars of different size are cut so sharply drawn with a laser that they act like a miniaturized representation of the Milky Way.

With the combination of decentralized dial design, large date and technically advanced caliber, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase bears all the marks of the most famous family of watches from A. Lange & Söhne. The calibre with an impressive power reserve of 72 hours is only 4.7 mm thick thanks to the use of only one barrel. The case, available in yellow gold, rose gold or platinum has a diameter of 41.0 mm. With a balance spring developed and manufactured in-house, a three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver and intricately hand decorated parts, the Lange calibre L095.3 features all the classic elements of the timepieces from this manufacture.

Sticker Price 38,900 Euro for 18K Pink gold or 18K Yellow gold. 50,900 Euro for Platinum. For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.

Posted on February 3, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under A Lange Sohne, SIHH and tagged A. Lange & Sohne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase A. Lange & Sohne Calibre L095.3.

SIHH 2014: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Jewellery with Mother-of-Pearl Dial. Live Pictures.

In their 60 diamond-set —approximately one total carat— 18K white gold cases measuring 35 mm in diameter and 7.9 mm in thickness, the two new Saxonia Jewellery models constitute a fascinating combination of horological precision, superb artisanship and feminine elegance. The visible facets of all the members of the Saxonia watch family reflect the rich inner life of these timepieces. They represent a perfect embodiment of mechanical precision, sublime craftsmanship and well-balanced design. This also applies to the two new Saxonia models in white ref. 878.029 and brown ref. 878.038 dials. Both of these mesmerizing A. Lange & Söhne ladies’ watches are focusing on the very essence. With svelte hands and baton hour markers in rhodiumed gold, the scintillating white or brown inlaid mother-of-pearl dial indicates the hours and minutes, as well as the seconds on a subsidiary dial. Located at 6 o’clock, the subdial stands in equilibrium with the A. Lange & Söhne signature beneath 12 o’clock.

The cool gloss of 18K white gold emphasizes the graceful silhouette of the two-part case that sparkles with the exceptional fire of 60 brilliant-cut diamonds. Straps in white or brown crocodile leather match the color of the dial and amplify the glamorous charisma of these watches.

The manually wound manufacture calibre L941.2 inside the Saxonia Jewellery assures high timekeeping accuracy. When fully wound, it delivers a power reserve of 45 hours. The movement reflects the ambitious quest for aesthetic elegance down to the smallest detail. Surfaces lavishly decorated by hand as well as the Glashütte ribbing that adorns the three-quarter plate made of German silver manifest the pursuit of perfection as aptly as the screwed gold chatons and the hand-engraved balance cock. The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the movement as a showpiece of mechanical ingenuity, commensurate with the dazzling appearance of the watch.

For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.

Posted on February 3, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under A Lange Sohne, SIHH and tagged A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Jewellery Mother-of-pearl A. Lange & Sohne Calibre L941.2.

SIHH 2014: IWC Aquatimer Chronograph '50 Years Science for Galapagos' Limited Edition of 500 Pieces and IWC Aquatimer Chronograph 'Galapagos Islands'. Live Pictures and Pricing.

For the first time ever, IWC presents two new Galapagos models simultaneously that are dedicated to the research and protection of the archipelago. This newly presented IWC Aquatimer Chronograph '50 Years Science for Galapagos' ref. IW379504 is a jubilee edition limited to 500 watches that commemorates the Charles Darwin Research Station's 50 years of scientific work on the Galapagos Islands. Equipped with the reliable IWC in-house 89365 calibre, SafeDive system and flyback function, the chronograph is water-resistant to 300 meters and has a wealth of features designed to appeal to divers. Fitted with a rubber-coated stainless steel case measuring 44 mm in diameter and a black dial with midnight blue accents, this limited edition watch is just amazing. The blue accents provide the perfect amount of contrast and color to the blackness of the watch.

The matte black rubber coating on the stainless-steel case is a special feature for both of the Galapagos edition models. It is applied in a complex vulcanization process and gives the watches an attractive look and feel of their own. Meanwhile, the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition 'Galapagos Islands' ref. IW379502 is a special edition —not limited— and an annual tribute to the partnership, established in 2009, with the Charles Darwin Foundation.

Over 50 years, hundreds of scientists, students, teachers and volunteers from all over the world have been working on behalf of the Foundation at the Charles Darwin Research Station. The goal for the Galapagos scientific center is to research the indigenous fauna and flora and to save the Galapagos, a World Heritage site, from destruction. The Station trains national park guides, organizes seminars, publishes the findings of its research and collects donations. Traditionally, part of the proceeds from sales of the Galapagos editions has always gone to the Charles Darwin Foundation and this time is not different. Both the 'Galapagos Islands' and the '50 Years Science for Galapagos' are fitted with specially engraved solid case backs. While the 'Galapagos Islands' model features the engraving of the iconic black iguana from the Galapagos, the '50 Years Science for Galapagos' features a 50-logo of the Charles Darwin Foundation.

Sticker Price $11,200 USD '50 Years Science for Galapagos'. $11,100 USD 'Galapagos Islands'.

For more info on IWC click here.

Posted on February 3, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under IWC, SIHH and tagged IWC Aquatimer Chronograph 50 Years Science for Galapagos IWC Aquatimer ref. IW379504 IWC SafeDive System IWC Calibre 89365 IWC Aquatimer ref. IW379502 2014.

SIHH 2014: IWC Aquatimer Chronograph ref. 3768. Live Pictures and Pricing.

The new IWC Aquatimer Chronograph presented at the SIHH 2014 two weeks ago is available in four different options with silver or black dial and on stainless steel bracelet or black rubber strap. The new IWC Aquatimer Chronograph ref. 3768 is fitted with a robust stainless steel case measuring 44 mm in diameter and a thickness of 17 mm. Powered by the calibre 79320, this chronograph features running seconds at 9, minute-chrono counter at 12, hour-chrono counter at 6 and day and date at 3 o'clock.

This watch just like all other new Aquatimers is fitted with an internal bezel with SafeDive system, screw-in crown and a solid case back.

The IWC Aquatimer Chronographs featured here are ref. IW376801 —silver dial— and ref. IW376803 —black dial. Both watches are fitted with a black rubber strap that is very comfortable and definitely a huge upgrade from the previous generation of IWC Aquatimer rubber straps. The strap features a texture similar to that on vintage tropic straps and is equipped with a pin buckle.

Sticker Price $7,000 USD Rubber strap. $8,000 USD Stainless steel bracelet. For more info on IWC click here.

Posted on February 2, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under IWC, SIHH and tagged IWC Aquatimer Chronograph ref. 3768 IWC Aquatimer Chronograph ref. IW376801 IWC Aquatimer Chronograph ref. IW376803 2014.

SIHH 2014: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore New Safari and New Navy. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Last week at the SIHH 2014, Audemars Piguet unveiled six new models of the Royal Oak Offshore in 42 mm. With this new line-up, there are several models that will no longer be produced and that have disappeared from the Royal Oak Offshore line as we knew them. Within these new six references, there are two particular models that we need to talk about in depth, the new Royal Oak Offshore 'Safari' and the new Royal Oak Offshore 'Navy'.

The original Royal Oak Offshore 'Safari' and Royal Oak Offshore 'Navy' were released in 2007 both as models specifically designed to be worn on a hornback strap and with color combinations that were somewhat different to the more conventional designs available as part of the 'Themes' line at the time. This year, both models have not only undergone an important facelift with new ceramic pushers and crown, new designed crown guards, new display case backs, new pin buckle straps, new hour/minute hands, but also a completely new look on their dials with new colors and also more streamlined Arabic numerals that appear thinner than on the previous generation of Royal Oak Offshores.

Today, the Royal Oak Offshore that we have been referring to as the 'Navy' for the last seven years, will no longer be fitted with a white dial and blue counters, but with a navy blue dial with off-white counters, blue flange with orange tachymeter scale, orange chronograph hands and a gorgeous cobalt blue rubber strap. We really think that the new 'Navy' is more bold and way better looking than the original one. In only two weeks, we have already seen the positive reactions from Audemars Piguet collectors and we can already sense that this will become a hot commodity as soon as it hits the authorized dealers network. The reference number for this new model is 26470ST.OO.A027CA.01.

Now, let's talk about the redesigned Royal Oak Offshore 'Safari' ref. 26470ST.OO.A801CR.01. The 'Safari' will now have a more ivory-cream colored dial than its predecessor with brown Arabic numerals, milk chocolate brown chrono counters and a brown flange with white tachymeter scale. While the original 'Safari' has always been an iconic model in the Royal Oak Offshore collection, we think that the new dial is more appealing and less boring. The new 42 mm Offshores will no longer be fitted with folding clasps but with pin buckles and the new buckle on the brown hornback alligator strap on the redesigned 'Safari' looks and feels great.

While we consider ourselves purists when it comes to certain iconic watches, we really feel that the redesigned 'Safari' and 'Navy' are perfect examples of what reinvention and redesign in the watch industry should look like. With the new Royal Oak Offshore line, Audemars Piguet continues to prove why to "break the rules you first must master them."

Sticker Price Royal Oak Offshore 'Safari' $26,000 USD. Sticker Price Royal Oak Offshore 'Navy' $25,600 USD.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Posted on February 1, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet, SIHH and tagged Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Safari Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Navy Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ref. 26470ST.OO.A027CA.01 Royal Oak Offshore 'Safari' ref. 26470ST.OO.A801CR.01.

SIHH 2014: IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 ref. 3580. Live Pictures and Pricing.

The new IWC Aquatimer 2000 ref. 358002 is one of our favorite watches from the new Aquatimer collection. Fitted with a very robust and thick titanium case measuring now 46 mm in diameter —instead of 44 mm as its predecessor— and 20.5 mm in thickness, this new watch is definitely an upgrade from the previous Aquatimer 2000. Rated to a depth of a 2000 meters, this beautiful watch is fitted with a black dial, a rugged rubber strap and now with an in-house automatic movement calibre 80110 with 28 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 44 hours when fully wound.

This watch just like all the other new Aquatimers, is fitted with a chunky external rotating bezel that can be adjusted easily even when wearing gloves and, as the name SafeDive system suggests, offers the diver a very high level of security. Something that we have not explained on earlier posts regarding the new Aquatimers, is that what appears to be a second crown or valve on the left side of the case, is actually the drive wheel and drive pinion for the new SafeDive bezel system. In order to guarantee uncompromised water resistance, the watch is fitted with a solid case back with the only one motif that was thought appropriate for engraving: the classic diving helmet worn by deep-sea divers.

The 2014 Aquatimer collection from IWC Schaffhausen comes with inspired technical features, even more in-house calibres and a patented IWC bracelet quick-change system. The prototype was built in 1982 as a watch for mine clearance divers and designed by the legendary Ferdinand A. Porsche. The version for non-military use, the Ocean 2000, was the first watch with a pressure-resistance of 200 bar and was much coveted by collectors. Subsequent models, namely the GST Aquatimer and the Aquatimer Automatic 2000, were one thing above all: first-class diving instruments for professionals and ambitious amateurs. The new Aquatimer Automatic 2000 is a reliable backup system, even for the most exacting underwater missions.

Sticker Price $10,100 USD. For more info on IWC click here.

Posted on January 31, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under IWC, SIHH and tagged IWC Aquatimer 2000 ref. 358002 IWC Calibre 80110 2014.

Our Best Wishes: Happy Chinese New Year. Seven Fascinating Watches Celebrating the Year of the Horse.

Today, with the first new moon of the calendar year, the Lunar Chinese New Year will begin its 15-day celebration. A 12-year-cycle of animals make up the Chinese zodiac and these interact with the five elements: wood, metal, fire, water, earth. 2014 is the year of the wood horse, taking over from the year of the water snake. In order to commemorate and celebrate the Year of the Horse, several manufactures have released limited edition timepieces. For this occasion, we have picked seven fascinating watches that take the center stage today as the Year of the Horse gets kicked-off.

Let's start with the Vacheron Constantin The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2014 Year of the Horse crafted in 18K pink gold or platinum and limited to 12 pieces each, that will only be sold at the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques. Fitted with a case measuring 40 mm in diameter and an automatic movement, the dial on this watch features a leaf motif, stemming from classic Chinese iconography, and directly engraved in the gold dial. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuated reliefs creating a depth effect. The raised bamboo stalks appear to be floating over the dial. With the horse engraving, on which the details of the mane and coat measure a mere fraction of a millimeter, the artisan provides a tangible expression of the artistic vision behind this creation. Then comes the stage of 'Grand Feu' enameling, a technique invented in Geneva and which remains the exclusive preserve of a rare breed of artisans. By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist further enhances the visual intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial. A final layer of enamel is then applied before a final firing operation that vitrifies the dial and lends a shiny glazed effect that gives added definition to the floral motif. The horse is delicately applied to the center of the dial, poised as if ready to gallop through the sapphire crystal and thus creating a truly striking effect. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

Three exclusive Jaquet Droz timepieces have been created using the exclusive know-how of Jaquet Droz's master craftsmen, specialized in highly complex techniques: engraving, painting and Grand Feu enamel. Two Arab thoroughbreds – considered the most beautiful horses in the world – have been delicately painted on the ivory enamel dial of the Petite Heure Minute 39 mm. Captured in full gallop, they seem to want to catch up with the sculptural mustang that appears on the dial of the Petite Heure Minute 43 mm. Extremely wild and difficult to tame, this horse from the American Northwest —depicted in red gold and engraved in bas-relief— seems to jump out from the black enamel. The champlevé technique, used here for the first time by Jaquet Droz, highlights the movement of the mane and the tail, both filled in with black Grand Feu enamel. The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute 41 mm has been chosen as the showcase to depict a horse rearing up on its hind legs against a backdrop of the Great Wall of China, engraved and patinated by hand on a mother-of-pearl dial. Bold, powerful and elegant, this fearless horse in 18-carat red gold appears to protect the Great Wall, which is also hand engraved on the 22-carat red gold oscillating weight next to the Jaquet Droz signature of two stars. For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.

Lastly, Arnold & Son unveiled the HM Horses Set in honor of the Chinese New Year. The Arnold & Son HM Horses Set is a special limited edition of 28 pairs of watches inspired by the horses depicted in traditional Chinese ink-wash paintings. Adorning each of the two lacquer dials is a hand-finished miniature painting of two horses, one pair black and grey on white, the other white and grey against a black background. Nuances of tone and shading, from jet black to silvery grey, are achieved by the tiny brushstrokes and texturing gradually to build-up the entire image with an astonishing richness of details. The two watches in each pair of this limited edition from Arnold & Son are powered by the hand wound A&S1001 calibre, developed, designed and manufactured entirely at Arnold & Son's workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The classical design is underscored by the slim 40 mm 18-carat rose gold case, which is also available with an optional diamond-set bezel. The simplicity of the black and white lacquered dials, which have just two hands and a minimalist chapter ring consisting of tiny dots, leaves the stage free for the dynamic miniature depiction of two charging horses. The timepieces are each presented with a high-quality black alligator leather strap. For more info on Arnold & Son click here.

Posted on January 31, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Other Brands and tagged Vacheron Constantin The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2014 Year of the Horse Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute 39mm Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute 43mm Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute 41mm.

SIHH 2014: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 44mm White Ceramic ref. 26402CB. Live Pictures and Pricing.

In 2011 Audemars Piguet introduced the 44 mm Royal Oak Offshore collection with a 44 mm diameter case and a whole new design under ref. 26400. Three years later, the manufacture continues to beef up its 44 mm Royal Oak Offshore collection with a completely new timepiece featuring a white ceramic case, white ceramic crown and pushers and titanium guards and plots, all rounded out by a white rubber strap with a titanium pin buckle.

This new 44 mm Royal Oak Offshore features a silver dial with dark blue chrono counters and a dark blue flange. Depending on the lighting conditions, the counters and flange can go from a midnight blue to almost black looking. The reference number for this new timepiece in the 44mm Offshore lineup is 26402CB.OO.A010CA.01.

As all other 44mm Royal Oak Offshores, this watch is fitted with a display case back that allows for full view of the Audemars Piguet calibre 3126/3840 composed of 365 parts, 59 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 55 hours when fully wound. The case back is also made of titanium and fitted with a anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal.

On the wrist, the watch wears exactly like all other 44 mm Royal Oak Offshores but slightly lighter due to the full ceramic case with titanium guards. We are confident, that this new Royal Oak Offshore 44 mm will be as popular among men as it will be among women, regardless of its 44 mm size. We've seen a trend in the past five years where ladies have gone all the way from 32 mm watches up to 41 mm. Therefore, going up another 3 mm in size is really not much of a big deal. This watch is also available in black ceramic with titanium guards and black dial for the exact same price.

Sticker Price $41,700 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Posted on January 30, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet, SIHH and tagged Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 44mm 26402CB.OO.A010CA.01 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore White Ceramic 2014.

SIHH 2014: Experience the Cartier Pavilion. Elegance, Creativity and the Largest Number of Novelties Unveiled by Any Brand.

This year at the SIHH 2014 Cartier presented the largest number of novelties of any brand present at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie and also had the largest pavilion of all, taking over a whole corner of the salon at the Palexpo in Geneva. Cartier presented a total of 103 new watches, 12 unique pieces and 5 new calibres. Their pavilion was elegantly decorated with light colored walls with red accents, beige wood, glass displays and very opulent but tasteful looking in general.

Some of the most fascinating pieces that were presented this year and that took the center stage included the following: the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon in 39 mm available in 18K rose gold and 18k white gold, the Pasha Tourbillon Chrono 46 mm in 18K rose gold, the Rotonde de Cartier Day & Night with Retrograde Moon Phase, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire, the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon, the Tank Louis Cartier Sapphire Skeleton, the Tank Must de Cartier Two Tone Skeleton, the Rotonde de Cartier Tourbillon Chronograph 8-day power reserve, the L'Heure Envoutee de Cartier, the Calibre de Cartier Diver and the Tortue amongst others.

We have put together all these live pictures for your viewing pleasure so you can pretend you came along. Our live pictures of some of the novelties are very close and personal so just enjoy them.

For more info on Cartier click here.

Posted on January 30, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under SIHH, Cartier and tagged Cartier Novelties SIHH 2014 Rotonde de Cartier Day & Night with Retrograde Moon Phase Pasha Tourbillon Chrono Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire Calibre de Cartier Diver SIHH 2014 Palexpo 2014.

SIHH 2014: Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Destro PAM 557. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Following the big success of the Luminor 1950 3 Days ref. PAM 372 reviewed here launched two years ago and following its simple vintage inspired lines, Officine Panerai presented the Destro —left-handed— version of this watch during the SIHH 2014 last week in Geneva.

The new Luminor 1950 3 Days Destro ref. PAM 557 comes with the exact same specifications as its predecessor but with the crown and crown protector on the left side of the case. The reason for this choice lies in the history of Panerai, which more than 70 years ago produced examples designed for commandos who preferred to wear the watch on the right wrist, with the compass and depth gauge on the other wrist. The biggest difference between these two watches —besides the obvious crown positioning— is the vintage looking untreated natural calf strap fitted on the new Destro. Since we had our PAM 372 with us during our meeting with Panerai last week, we decided to take some side-by-side shots of the two siblings for your viewing pleasure.

Just like on the PAM 372 the watch is supplied with a second interchangeable strap —we ignore the look or color of it at this point—, a second plexiglas and a steel screwdriver.

Sticker Price $10,600 USD. For more info on Panerai click here.

Posted on January 29, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Panerai, SIHH and tagged Luminor 1950 3 Days ref. PAM 372 Luminor 1950 3 Days ref. PAM 557 Luminor 1950 3 Days Destro ref. PAM 557 2014.

SIHH 2014: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 in 38.5 mm. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Last week A. Lange & Söhne presented the new 1815 with a 38.5 mm case. The 1815 is a watch with all the unmistakable hallmarks of the A. Lange & Söhne style, the 1815 embodies the paradigmatic ideals of a sleek mechanical timekeeping instrument. Thus, it follows the horological standards upheld by Ferdinand A. Lange, whose birth year is reflected in its name. “Medèn ágan – nothing in excess” is one of the wisdoms of antiquity that advocates moderation and modesty at the entrance to the Temple of Delphi. Ferdinand A. Lange, the founder of the German precision watchmaking industry, may well have adopted it as the motto of his life. As a congenial expression of principles, it also characterises the style of his legendary pocket watches. They comply with his tenet that “each piece be as simple as possible and serve its purpose steadfastly and reliably”. This product philosophy also applies to the 1815. Each detail of its timeless design and each of the 188 parts of its manufacture movement derives its aesthetic appeal from the combination of functional integrity and immaculate craftsmanship.

Noble understatement permeates the finesse of the watch, which is available in 18K yellow, pink and white gold. Its 38.5-millimetre case diameter addresses the preference of many watch connoisseurs. The larger version with a diameter of 40 mm will continue to be available. With its two-tier design and the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, the solid-silver dial is reminiscent of Lange’s historic pocket watches. This look is emphasized by a gently contoured bezel and the slender lugs. A railway-track minute scale, black Arabic numerals and blued-steel hands accentuate the classic appearance of the watch and enhance the legibility of its silver face.

The lavishly hand-decorated hand wound calibre L051.1 epitomizes Lange’s acclaimed watchmaking artistry with its full unobstructed view via the display case back. The new 1815 showcases classic design and intrinsic values. Many traditional Lange hallmarks are visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback: the three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, a hand-engraved balance cock, a screw balance, a whiplash spring, screwed gold chatons, and thermally blued screws are manifestations of haute horlogerie at its very finest. This fine calibre composed of 188 parts and 23 jewels —five of which are in screwed gold chatons— provides a power reserve of 55 hours.

The new A. Lange & Söhne 1815 is pure class and one of the best examples from this manufacture from Saxony. The new 1815 will be available in 18K yellow gold, 18K pink gold and 18K white gold.

Sticker Price $27,100 USD for 18K Yellow and 18K Pink Gold. $28,400 USD for 18K white gold. For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.

Posted on January 29, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under A Lange Sohne, SIHH and tagged A. Lange & Söhne 1815 38.5mm A. Lange & Sohne Calibre L051.1.

SIHH 2014: Panerai Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Destro 8 Days Titanio PAM 579. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Every detail of the Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Destro —Left-Handed— 8 Days Titanio ref. PAM 579 tells a piece of the history of Panerai watches. The new Special Edition, a unique edition limited to 300 units, reunites many of the characteristics designed and developed in the course of the thirties and forties for the Panerai watches made for the commandos of the Royal Italian Navy, integrating them perfectly with the technical solutions and materials of high quality modern sports watchmaking. The Luminor 1950 47 mm case of the new chronograph has a detail which has a striking effect on the design of the watch, derived from some of the historic models: the winding crown and the device for protecting it are fitted on the left side. The reason for this choice lies in the history of Panerai, which more than 70 years ago produced examples designed for commandos who preferred to wear the watch on the right wrist, with the compass and depth gauge on the other wrist. To keep the shape of the device protecting the crown aesthetically pure, the push-piece which controls all the chronograph functions is positioned on the right side of the watch, at two o’clock.

In spite of the case diameter of 47 mm, a classic size of the period models which were worn over the diving suit, its weight has been substantially reduced through the choice of titanium, a material which among other things is strongly resistant to corrosion and is also hypo-allergenic. Other elements which have their roots in the history of Panerai are the domed sapphire crystal protecting the dial and the matte tobacco brown sandwich dial formed of two superimposed plates enclosing the ecru luminous substance, visible through the holes cut in the upper part corresponding to the indexes. This structure, combined with the legendary cleanness of the dial design, ensures the greatest clarity and legibility even under the poorest lighting conditions.

Through the transparent back the hand-wound P.2004/9 movement can be seen, revealing details of its original construction with large brushed finish bridges, chamfered and polished angles and screws with a mirror-polished finish. With its three spring barrels, the movement is supplied with a constant force for eight consecutive days and the power reserve indicator is on the back of the movement, so as to keep the design of the dial as minimalist as possible.

The Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Destro —Left-Handed— 8 Days Titanio ref. PAM 579 is the chronograph, which has a single push-piece to operate the starting, stopping and zeroing of the time interval being measured. Fitted with a column wheel, a component used in the most sophisticated movements because it provides the greatest accuracy, the chronograph also has a friction clutch, which avoids any uncertainty in the movement of the chronograph hand. The 30-minute chrono counter at nine o’clock stands out immediately because the hand does not move continuously but in jumps as it clicks forward one position for every minute that is recorded. The P.2004/9 calibre is also fitted with the device for zeroing the seconds hand at 3 o'clock whenever the crown is pulled out to guarantee the most accurate time setting. The Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio ref. PAM 579 is supplied with a strap of natural leather and a second strap made of rubber, as well as the screwdriver for replacing the buckle and the special tool for changing the strap. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters.

Sticker Price $22,500 USD. For more info on Panerai click here.

Posted on January 29, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Panerai, SIHH and tagged Panerai PAM 579 Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio Panerai Calibre P.2004/9 2014.

SIHH 2014: Experience the A. Lange & Söhne Pavilion. A Gigantic Perpetual Calendar "Terraluna" as the Centerpiece.

With an oversized representation of the new Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar "Terraluna" in white gold, the German manufacture from Saxony welcomed all the visitors to their pavilion. Meticulously executed and in full functioning order, the gigantic "Terraluna" was a display that you just couldn't miss. Inside the pavilion, a celestial vaulted ceiling adorned the room where amazing timepieces were on display. Champagne, German beer and the traditional pretzels where served all day long. This year at the SIHH 2014, A. Lange & Söhne wowed everyone with 14 watches across their different collections and in a variety of metals including:

Grande Lange 1 Moon Phase in platinum, 18K pink gold and 18K yellow gold. Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 18K pink gold. 1815 Tourbillon in 18K pink gold and in platinum. 1815 in 38.5 mm in 18K pink gold, 18K yellow gold and 18K white gold. Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time in 18K pink gold. Saxonia Jewellery in 18K white gold with diamonds and mother-of-pearl dials. Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar "Terraluna" in 18K white gold and 18K pink gold.

Now enjoy the pictures and pretend you came along. For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.

Posted on January 29, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under A Lange Sohne, SIHH and tagged Grande Lange 1 Moon Phase Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 1815 Tourbillon A. Lange & Sohne 1815 in 38.5 mm Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time Saxonia Jewellery Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar "Terraluna" A. Lange & Sohne Pavilion SIHH 2014.

SIHH 2014: A. Lange & Söhne Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time in Pink Gold. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Up until now only available in platinum or 18K white gold, this year at the SIHH 2014, A. Lange & Söhne presented the Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time in 18K pink gold ref. 140.032. Three high-pitched chimes and one lower-pitched tone are the sounds with which this fascinating watch announces each passing quarter and full hour. The first A. Lange & Söhne wristwatch with a chiming mechanism is now also available in pink gold. A. Lange & Söhne amazed the watch collecting world when it presented the Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time three years ago. Now, the resonant masterpiece with precisely jumping numerals is also available in pink gold with a silver dial and pink gold hands. With a case measuring 44.2 mm in diameter this watch has perfect proportions and a striking design.

In the Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time, key chiming mechanism components are visibly integrated into the dial design. The black-polished steel hammers can be seen on either side of the subsidiary seconds dial: one on the right for the quarter hours and one on the left for the full hours. The two gongs, embedded in a recess between the dial and bezel, are also readily recognizable. Every 15 minutes, the mechanism triggers the striking of one of the two gongs. The chiming mechanism can be deactivated to prevent any disturbance during the night or at a meeting with a push piece at 4 o’clock that raises the hammers and silences the watch.

The heart of the Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time, the L043.2 manufacture calibre, fulfills all those expectations that watch connoisseurs legitimately associate with the name A. Lange & Söhne: its assets include the lavish decoration of all movement parts by hand as well as the balance wheel with eccentric poising weights and a proprietary Lange balance spring. This amazing calibre is composed of 528 parts, 78 jewels, two screwed gold chatons and provides a power reserve of 36 hours when fully wound.

With its precisely jumping numerals display, the new member of the Lange Zeitwerk family also represents lucid design and crisp legibility. The large numerals of the adjacent hour and minute indications enable the current time to be read clearly. In fractions of a second, the patented constant-force escapement advances the numerals minute by minute until the full hour when all three numeral discs jump forward simultaneously by exactly one increment. The Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time enriches the exciting interplay of numbers with a unique tone in a quarter-hour cadence for the wearer’s listening pleasure. In all a fantastic complication with exceptional wrist presence.

Sticker Price 48,500 Euro. For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.

Posted on January 28, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under A Lange Sohne, SIHH and tagged ALS Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time A. Lange & Sohne Lange Zeitwerk Striking Time A. Lange & Sohne ref. 140.032.

SIHH 2014: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph in Platinum. Live Pictures and Pricing.

This time we are talking about our newest favorite tourbillon in the market, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph ref. 26388PO.OO.D027CA.01 in 950 Platinum presented at the SIHH 2014. This is a grail for many watchlifestylers and one hell of a watch. This Offshore is not only one amazing horological complication, but perhaps one of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs with the most mesmerizing wrist presence.

This robust timepiece featuring a tourbillon, also features an integrated column wheel 30-minute chronograph —quite a complication. After a successful launch in 2011 featuring a case in 18K pink gold and a forged carbon bezel under ref. 26288OF.OO.D002CR.01 reviewed here, this year Audemars Piguet presents the platinum version of this watch fitted with a ceramic bezel instead of forged carbon. This fascinating complication measuring 44mm in diameter and 16.60mm in thickness no longer features the four carved out corners on the top of the case —near the lug areas— as its predecessor; however, it still maintains the carved out plots and a perfectly brushed finished case with exuberating 'chamfers' very typical of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore timepieces. Fitted now with a black ceramic bezel that matches the pushers and the crown, this watch is as perfect as it gets. The watch features an anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal, an anti-reflective coated display case back and a tourbillon with an integrated column wheel chronograph.

The openworked dial on this watch is now blue instead of black, following the traditional Audemars Piguet strategy of fitting blue dials on platinum Royal Oak Offshore Limited Edition pieces. The dial features a 30-minute chrono-register in light and dark blue at 3, a tourbillon at 9 o'clock and two openings at 12 and 6 o'clock. The blue dial features contrasting white Arabic numerals, white gold hands with luminescent coating, a blue flange with tachymetric scale and white chrono hands to round up its perfectly balanced configuration.

The beating heart inside of this new model is the hand-wound Audemars Piguet calibre 2912 composed of 328 parts, 30 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 237 hours —almost ten full days— when fully wound. Although this watch comes with the same movement as its predecessor —you can see it here—, it appears like Audemars Piguet has added two more bridges to the movement slightly reducing the visibility of the calibre.

Another difference between the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph in Platinum and its predecessor, is that while the rose gold model features a black large square scale hand-stitched alligator strap, this new platinum version features a sporty blue rubber strap with folding clasp that looks just amazing. On the wrist the watch is as comfortable as its predecessor and slightly heavier due to the density of the 950 platinum case.

Sticker Price $313,900 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Posted on January 28, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet, SIHH and tagged Audemars Piguet ref. 26388PO.OO.D027CA.01 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph Platinum AP Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chrono ref. 26388PO.OO.D027CA.01 2014.

SIHH 2014: IWC Aquatimer Automatic ref. 3290. Live Pictures and Pricing.

More robust and closer in look to the original IWC Aquatimers, the new IWC Aquatimer Automatic ref. 3290 presented at the SIHH 2014 captures the essence of the sea and excels at the functionality of a diving watch. With a gorgeous design and an inner rotating bezel that can be easily rotated from the exterior and that is fitted with IWC's new SafeDive system that prevents rotating the bezel in clockwise direction. Frankly, the new Aquatimer line is nothing but just amazing. The new Aquatimer Automatic ref. 3290 is fitted with a stainless steel case measuring 42 mm in diameter and is the smallest model in the IWC diver's watch family. This watch not only experienced s whole new cosmetic facelift but also major improvements in its functionality and depth resistance moving from 120 meters to 300 meters providing a bigger safety margin when diving to great depths.

This new Aquatimer is available in black or silver-plated dial, complete with a matching black rubber strap or stainless-steel bracelet. In the version with the black dial, the dive-related displays are coated with luminescent green superluminova —somewhat hard to appreciate in the pictures due to the artificial fluorescent lighting but with a nice mint green color— and the model with the silver-plated dial looks particularly elegant and more discreet with a subtle yellow accent on the tip of the seconds hand. The watch still features the quick change mechanism to go from strap to bracelet quite easily. Additionally, the new strap is nicer with a pattern that resembles the vintage tropic straps on diving watches.

Sticker Price $5,750 USD on Rubber Strap and $6,750 on Stainless Steel Bracelet. For more info on IWC click here.

Posted on January 28, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under IWC, SIHH and tagged IWC Aquatimer Automatic ref. 3290 IWC New SIHH 2014 Aquatimer Collection IWC ref. 329001 IWC ref. 329002 IWC ref. 329003 IWC ref. 329004 2014.

SIHH 2014: Experience the Audemars Piguet Pavilion. A Perfectly Executed Journey to the Vallée de Joux.

The Audemars Piguet pavilion at the SIHH 2014 was a perfect example of the new look and feel of their boutiques. Following their new brand identity strategy Audemars Piguet presented a pavilion following the modern, sleek and minimalist design now present in some of their newly opened boutiques like the one in Bal Harbour reviewed here.

The pavilion included the traditional sleek wooden flooring around some of the showcases, modern wooden walls, polygonal blocks —serving as the base for the wooden counter tops and the showcases—, rocks, several very senior watchmakers on duty, amazing displays for the novelties, a gorgeous Royal Oak Tourbillon Desk Clock on the watchmakers bench, fellow Chicagoan Octavio Garcia —Chief Artistic Officer for Audemars Piguet— was present for a few days and also the one and only original Offshore —an unmarked example— was on display. Exactly like the one that was on our wrist, we really didn't come prepared.

The modern and sleek design was accentuated by several Hans J. Wegner chairs, beautiful screens with images from the Vallée de Joux and of course some amazing chocolate truffles and the best champagne. Once again, Audemars Piguet knocks it out of the park with a pavilion filled with their brand essence, history and flawlessly portraying the values of the manufacture. Now enjoy the pictures and pretend you came along.

For more info on Audemars Piguet SIHH 2014 Novelties click here.

Posted on January 28, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet, SIHH and tagged Audemars Piguet SIHH 2014 Pavilion Audemars Piguet Original Royal Oak Offshore Audemars Piguet SIHH 2014 Novelties Octavio Garcia Chief Artistic Officer AP 2014.