Insider: Frédérique Constant Moontimer. An Inexpensive Swiss Made Mechanical Timepiece with In-House Movement.

If you are an avid reader of our watch blog, you know by now that we only feature watches that we deem worthy talking about. You then also know, that we will feature watches regardless of their price point as long as we like them and as long as we think that they meet certain criteria in terms of craftsmanship and design. One thing we can promise, is that we will never feature fashion watches from Gucci, Ralph Lauren or Burberry in this website. Because of this commitment, we have decided to feature this beautiful Frédérique Constant timepiece, a watch that comes from a 25 year old Swiss manufacture that offers great affordable timepieces fitted with in-house calibres, yes, it is not a typo we are talking about 'in-house calibres'.

Frédérique Constant was established in its current form in 1988. Aletta Bax and Peter Stas launched their first collection in 1992, comprising six models fitted with Swiss movements and assembled by a watchmaker in Geneva. Today, each Frédérique Constant watch is hand-assembled at their manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva with an estimated production of 125,000 pieces a year. The name 'Frédérique Constant' comes from two names: Frédérique Schreiner—1881-1969— and Constant Stas—1880-1967. Peter Stas current Managing Director of Frédérique Constant S.A., is a 4th generation descendant of Mr. Constant Stas, who founded his company in 1904, making printed clock dials for the watch industry.

The Frédérique Constant Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 is a watch that we've always liked and one that offers a moon phase and date complication in a well balanced, well crafted timepiece. While many like to describe Frédérique Constant timepieces as mere copycats of Pateks or Jaeger-LeCoultres, we like to think of this manufacture as one that is a perfect point of entry into the Swiss made mechanical watches category with a product that follows horological design principles established centuries ago by the fathers of horology, rather than a company that offers watches that pretend to be a look-alike or wannabe of timepieces designed by the leading 'haute horlogerie' manufactures. After reviewing this timepiece, we can say with confidence that you are getting your money's worth, not more not less.

The Frédérique Constant Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 is fitted with a nice highly polished stainless steel case measuring 43mm in diameter and 11.4mm in thickness, a black 'calfcroc' strap with deployant buckle and a beautiful black dial with raised white Arabic numerals with luminescent material, central minute chapter ring, red date pointer indicator, moon phase aperture at 6 o'clock and a set of perfectly contrasting leaf-shaped white hands. The dial is nicely finished and the luminescent material on the numbers and hands is quite bright and long lasting. As you know, most watches with this type of design and classical look typically lack of luminescent material at all. The dial is very easy to read and the convex sapphire crystal provides good readability even in poor light conditions. 

The Frédérique Constant  Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 is powered by the in-house automatic calibre FC-330 with 26 jewels which provides a power reserve of 38 hours while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. The calibre is very nicely finished considering the inexpensive price point of this watch and even better finished than some calibres we've seen in more well established brands. Kudos to Frédérique Constant for this level of craftsmanship. To make this calibre even better, Frédérique Constant The watch is fitted with a display case back that allows for full view of the calibre and the watch is waterproof to a depth of a 100 meters. Opposed to what you see in some of the more inexpensive watch brands, this watch is individually numbered as it should be.

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One great advantage of this watch over other moon phase watches, is that both the date and moon phase are set via the winding crown without the need for any push pieces around the case band. The crown is a screw-down that is easy to grip but somewhat stiff when pulled out to the winding position. Regardless of the stiffness, one positive thing on this movement, besides the fact that it is a hacking one, is that there's no play at all on the hands when setting the time and pushing the crown back in.

The FC Moontimer is fitted with a very nice handmade matte black calf strap that Frédérique Constant refers to as 'calfcroc' because of its apparent crocodile look with large scales. The strap is properly fitted with a very comfortable and well crafted deployant buckle. The buckle is beautifully engraved with the Frédérique Constant logo and features alternating bead-blasted and highly polished areas. The strap wraps very well around the wrist and is perfectly flushed against the edges of the case with a double spring bar system.

On the wrist the watch wears smaller than its actual size and more like a 40mm watch in a very comfortable and solid way. The watch has a nice weight and it's wrist presence is spectacular for the price. If you are ready to break the paradigm that only an expensive watch is worthy of your wrist, we suggest you give this brand a try and see for yourself. At the very least, you'll find this watch to be a nice 'play watch' for those days when the Patek, Vacheron or Jaeger-LeCoultre needs to stay at home or in the safe.

Sticker Price $2,225 USD. For more info on Frederique Constant click here.

Experience: Deakin & Francis Silver Bull and Bear Cufflinks. Perfectly Made to Match the Girard-Perregaux WW.TC Financial Worldtimer Chronograph in Titanium.

Deakin & Francis was founded in Birmingham, England in 1786 as the manufacturer of some of the world’s finest cufflinks and without a doubt one of the top brands for demanding watchlifestylers. Their workshop in Birmingham produces fine quality handmade jewellery in precious metals, incorporating vitreous enamel and fine gemstones. Seven generations after Charles Washington Shirley Deakin developed the product range, the business is today owned and managed by James and Henry Deakin. Over the last 200+ years, the team at Deakin & Francis has created over 1,000 cufflink designs for business people, celebrities and members of royalty worldwide. Some of their creations range from funky and fun to classic and extremely elegant in precious metals and stones.

The Bull and Bear cufflinks we are presenting you here are the perfect companion for those of you living the 'Wolf of Wall Street' lifestyle. The Bull and Bear Deakin & Francis cufflinks are handmade of sterling silver and encrusted with bright ruby eyes. The oxidized silver along with the ruby eyes are the perfect combination for those seeking a dressy but fun look.

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Deakin & Francis offers a large selection of silver and gold cufflinks, leather cufflink boxes, money clips, wallets, bracelets, bangles and key rings. When it comes to their particularly fancy gold cufflinks, these come set with precious stones or in funky designs to make that first impressions unforgettable. Their gold cufflinks come in either 9K or 18K gold with vitreous enamel, gem set and hand painted crystal cufflinks. The designs are not only very well executed but also quite original including all sort of wild animals and bugs, a vast array of transportation vehicles, foods, drinks, skulls, quirky characters and even some amazing blue enamel and gold knot cufflinks.

Next time you are wearing that fabulous Girard-Perregaux WW.TC Financial Worldtimer Chronograph at the floor, make sure its paired with this oxidized silver cufflinks that match the beautiful dark gray color of its titanium case. Now, if you are one of those that prefers gold watches, these cufflinks are also available in 18K gold with ruby eyes for only $7,970 USD.

Sticker Price $570 USD. For more info on Deakin & Francis click here.

News: Arnold & Son Unveils the Time Pyramid in Stainless Steel. A Fascinating Timepiece and a Real Treat for the Eyes.

Arnold & Son unveils a new reference of its iconic Time Pyramid featuring the hand finished A&S1615 calibre treated in NAC grey, housed in a stainless steel case. The A&S1615 movement with unique skeletonized pyramid-shaped architecture, was conceived, designed and developed in-house. The movement A&S1615 seemingly floats between two sapphire crystals, the Time Pyramid is a masterful rendition of technical prowess and unparalleled elegance. This superbly engineered wristwatch is part of the brand’s Instrument Collection that combines instrument precision with classical styling.

 Inspired by the regulators created by John and Roger Arnold over two hundred years ago, and by antique British skeleton clocks, the new Arnold & Son Time Pyramid offers a highly cohesive and seductive blend of watchmaking feats that includes regulator, skeleton, vertical linear movement, pyramid-placement of components and multi-dimensional depth.

The skeletonized caliber A&S 1615 follows the original regulators from the brand with its component positioning and detailed 3D visual appeal. Movement parts and watch indications are built on three levels, with the subsidiary seconds dial on the bottom, the hour indications on a sapphire crystal dial in the middle level, and a silver top ring for the minutes indication. While the movement is extremely thin-at just 4.4 mm —the multiple levels bring amazing depth and detail to the watch. To further enhance the balance and symmetry of the Time Pyramid, the crown —with Arnold & Son’s engraved logo— is artfully positioned at six o’clock. The gear train runs vertically in a linear format connecting the two barrels at six o’clock to the balance wheel at twelve o’clock, and endowing the movement with its pyramid structure.The bridges are designed so that all of the wheels, the two main spring barrels, the escapement and balance wheel are all magnificently visible from the dial side.

Additionally, the movement is fitted with two power reserve indicators –one each on either side of the linear gear train –to display the energy level for each barrel separately. The power reserve hands indicate the reserve level via graduated dots —that are printed under the top sapphire crystal— in an arc format, and demonstrate how one barrel transfers energy to the second one when needed. Essentially, as the first barrel winds the second one, the power reserve indicator of the first barrel goes down, while the second one goes up –making for an accurate and intriguing readout. The two mainspring barrels supply the hand-wound caliber with an amazing 90 hours of power reserve, and provide a more constant force to the wheel train. As with every esteemed Arnold & Son watch, the movement of the Time Pyramid is magnificently hand decorated with manually chamfered brides and high-polished edges, Côtes de Genève, circular satin- finished wheels and blued screws, all yielding a striking masterpiece of decorative craftsmanship and brilliant execution.

Each Time Pyramid wristwatch measures 44.6 mm in diameter in its classically elegant stainless steel case. Viewed from the side, the housing is stepped and tapers from top to bottom, the widest section accommodating the extra-large glass with the lower part narrowing to fit snugly on the wrist. Each is finished with an exquisite hand-stitched alligator strap.

For more info on Arnold & Son click here.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE ARNOLD & SON TIME PYRAMID REF. 1TPAS.S01A.C124S

Calibre: A&S 1615 with 27 jewels, manual wound, diameter 37 mm, thickness 4.40mm, power reserve over 90 hours, 21,600 vph.

Dial: sapphire, circular satin-finished dial frame with chamfered and polished edge.

Hands: blued hands with white Super LumiNova.

Case: stainless steel, diameter 44.6mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back see-through sapphire, water-resistant to 30 m.

Strap: hand-stitched black alligator leather.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Girard-Perregaux Presents the New Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet. A Well Needed Addition to the Hawk Collection.

A steel bracelet for the Chrono Hawk collection. The Chrono Hawk line is now available with a stainless steel bracelet in a design and perfect finish that once again demonstrates Girard-Perregaux’s excellence.
The new bracelet of Girard-Perregaux’s Chrono Hawk line instills power and elegance into this resolutely masculine range. Its links form a pattern of remarkable purity and their lines epitomize contemporary watch design. This aesthetic is matched by equally advanced technical qualities, honing the multiple connections between these steel parts for optimum comfort when wearing. This new bracelet has a distinctive functional geometric style combining two types of links ; the first type generates a powerful line running along the middle, while the second surrounds the first. Subtly interwoven, they also exhibit alternating polished and satin finishes on the two outer bevels of the central links.

The fusion between these two types of links forms a finely balanced and well-proportioned ribbon, making a perfect fit with the strong lines of the Hawk Collection’s watch cases. The bracelet closes easily with a secure folding clasp and features a micro-adjustment system to ensure wearing comfort. Finally, it is interchangeable with the rubber version and can be ordered separately. The Hawk collection honors more than 130 years of technical watchmaking tradition, tracing back to 1880, when the Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds provided specially designed watches for the German Navy. Directly descended from the Sea Hawk line, launched in 1940 and adapted for diving in 1970, and the Laureato, a sport model introduced in 1975, the Chrono Hawk has both sleek and sporty lines. Its asymmetric case formed of successive planes is the mark of its modern character, unparalleled in high-end watchmaking. It is topped by a bezel divided into two parts, one circular and the other octagonal, creating a unique visual effect. The technical dial, perfectly
legible and built on several levels, is decorated with a pattern using the shape of the famous Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Bridge.

In this all-steel version, it is available in two colors: silver as ref. 49970-11-133-11A and metallic blue as ref. 49970-11-431-11A. Inside, the exclusive mechanical self-winding caliber GP03300 displays hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph function.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE CHRONO HAWK STEEL BRACELET
Case in steel
Diameter: 44.00 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal, secured by 6 screws
Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
Girard-Perregaux movement
GP3300-0074 (metallic blue dial)
GP3300-0075 (silver dial)
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 30.00 mm (13 ’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 61
Functions: hour, minute, date, small second, chronograph
Steel bracelet with steel folding buckle micro-adjustable

For more info on Girard-Perregaux click here.

News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents the Duomètre Unique Travel Time. A Fascinating World Timer Complication.

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The Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux undeniably owes its incredible destiny to the inventive spirit of its founder, Antoine LeCoultre. Since 1833, every watch bearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature is crafted with the same passion, guided by a constant quest for technical enhancement. Each masterpiece, heir to over 180 years of expertise, benefits from state-of-the-art research. A fresh interpretation of the revolutionary Dual-Wing movement, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time watch in pink gold reflects the technical breakthroughs achieved by the Manufacture in the field of world-time watches and offers original solutions for travelers with a love of Fine Watchmaking.

The Duomètre Unique Travel Time is the first world-time watch enabling to-the-minute adjustment of the second time zone. This enables travelers to accurately set the second time zone on all continents and countries regardless of the time difference. In keeping with the technical and aesthetic spirit of the creations by the Duomètre line signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time watch reveals the various facets of horological excellence by the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. Past, present and future converge in perfect harmony in this exceptional creation.

For this movement, the Dual-Wing system is divided into two distinct mechanisms: the first is devoted to displaying the local time, and the second to showing that in a second time zone. The two mechanisms share the same regulating organ but each has its own independent source of energy, thereby avoiding the losses due to interaction between the mechanisms. The operation of the dual time-zone display does not in any way influence the running of the watch, a fact that considerably enhances the precision of the watch. Each mechanism has a 50-hour power reserve and, governed by a wish to achieve ideal user-friendliness, the same crown serves to wound both barrels. The timekeeping barrel is wound by a counter-clockwise rotation, and the travel-time barrel by a clockwise rotation.

Given the complexity of the functions, the finely grained dial provides impeccable clarity. Two magnificent symmetrically arranged sub-dials lend a perfectly balanced touch to this horological creation: the first sub-dial at 2 o’clock sets the stage for the hour and minute hand; while the second at 10 o’clock hosts the jumping hour and minutes of the travel time. The globe at 6 o’clock displays a world map surrounded by the time-zone indications and the day/night ring. The globe is synchronized with the travel time. The single crown is used to adjust the local time in position two and the travel time in position one, and, as well as to wind the mainsprings when in position zero. Once both time zones are synchronized, the traveler can simply use the push-pieces at 8 and 10 o’clock to adjust the jumping hours in the left sub-dial according to the destination, and in case of a non-standard time zone, the minutes can be adjusted separately using the crown in position one.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383, a remarkably beautiful and exquisitely finished movement is revealed through the sapphire crystal caseback. Its bridges and gear trains are hand-chamfered and feature polished sinks. The moving parts, also hand-chamfered or adorned with polished sinks, are graced with a snailed or smoothed finish. These decorative touches are clearly inspired by the grand tradition of the brand’s pocket-watches and lay new milestones through their exceptionally refined finishing. The engraved names of the cities corresponding to the world’s 24 time zones are also visible through the back.

A worthy heir to the Duomètre line, the pink gold Duomètre Unique Travel Time is a celebration of technical and precious Fine Watchmaking, vividly illustrating over 180 years of history while prefiguring the watchmaking of tomorrow.

Technical Specifications of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time:

Movement: New mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 50-hour power reserve for each of the two barrels, 498 parts, 54 jewels, 7.25 mm thick, 34.30 mm in diameter, 28'800 vibrations per hour.

Dial: Grained, silver-toned

Hands: Leaf-type

Functions: Hours, minutes —Home time—, Hour —jumping; 2nd time-zone display—, minutes and world map indication of the two power reserves

Case: Pink gold, 13.65 mm thick, 42 mm in diameter, Polished lugs and satin-brushed caseband.

Water resistance: 5o meters.

Strap: Alligator leather, pink gold pin buckle.

Reference: Q6062520

For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.

News: Corum Opens New Boutique in Paris. Located in the Heart of the Golden Triangle.

Corum opens new boutique in Paris' 8th arrondissement on Rue Pierre Charron. The new flagship store is located in the heart of the Golden Triangle, a high luxury area on the right bank of Paris and offering the finest showcase to celebrate the end of the year.
 
Corum continues to strengthen its direct distribution by launching an exclusive new boutique in the heart of the French capital. It is in collaboration with Kronometry 1999 that the brand with a key “unlocked” this prestigious space entirely dedicated to the universe of the La Chaux-de-Fonds Maison.
 
Nestled in a historical building, embellished by the charm of ashlar stones, the store is dressed in accordance with the codes of the brand: the purity of the white intersecting with the character of the ebony softwood. Adorned with premium materials, the boutique will receive the iconic collections of the brand, Admiral's Cup and Corum Bridges, plus a few timepieces of its legendary Heritage collection.
 
This Haute Horlogerie store will offer not only a collection of exclusive timepieces, but also serve as a showcase for the history, know-how and brand philosophy.

For more info on Corum click here.

Posted on January 9, 2014 and filed under News, Watch Shopping.

News: Presenting the New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Doha Boutique Limited Edition. An Offshore with Satin-Brushed Slate Dial.

In celebration of the new Audemars Piguet Doha Boutique opening in Qatar, Audemars Piguet is delighted to unveil a very special version of its Royal Oak Offshore sports watch in the form of a limited edition model specifically designed to honor Qatar and only available at Audemars Piguet Doha Boutique. This new watch features a titanium case measuring the traditional 42 mm in diameter of the Royal Oak Offshore and is fitted with black ceramic bezel. Beyond that, this particular version of the Royal Oak Offshore becomes even more special than most because each of the 100 examples of this limited edition features a satin-brushed, slate grey dial with contrasting anthracite counters for recording elapsed times of 60 seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours. The luminescent Arabic numerals and main hour and minute hands are satin-brushed, and two of the chronograph indicators and the central seconds hand are lacquered in a vibrant red.

Another small, red detail found at the five o'clock position on the tachymeter scale further identifies this particular version of the Royal Oak Offshore. Turning the watch over, meanwhile, reveals Audemars Piguet's characteristic winding rotor through a sapphire crystal display back surrounded by a titanium border.

Each watch will be delivered on a grey alligator strap designed to complement its unique dial design and will be supplied in a special presentation box.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Technical Specifications of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Doha Boutique Limited Edition ref. 26219IO.OO.D005CR.01

Calibre:

Selfwinding Manufacture calibre 3126/3840

Function:

Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, date

Case:

Titanium case, black ceramic bezel, titanium caseback, numbered XXX/100, black rubber pushpieces and screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 100 m, diameter 42 mm.

Dial:

Satin-brushed slate-grey dial, anthracite counters, satin-brushed  Arabic numerals, hands with luminescent coating, center seconds hand and hands of the counters at 9 o’clock and 6 o’clock painted in red. “Audemars Piguet” printed in white at 3 o’clock. “SWISS MADE” printed in white at 6 o’clock. Anthracite inner bezel with “135” printed in red.

Strap:

Hand-stitched “large square scale” grey alligator strap with titanium AP folding clasp.

Quantity:

Limited Edition of 100 pieces

Réf : 26219IO.OO.D005CR.01

Rare Bird: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2012 Limited Edition. Only 150 Pieces Ever Made and One of Our Favorite Offshores.

Last year while visiting New York City, we stopped by the Audemars Piguet boutique to shop around and work on one of our boutique reviews published here. After looking around for a while we spotted one of our favorite Royal Oak Offshores on display, we are talking about the ultra rare and hard to find Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2012 Limited Edition ref. 26208ST.00.D305CR.01. This watch launched by Audemars Piguet in 2012 to celebrate the 21st edition of the Tour Auto Optic 2000 rally was launched in a limited series of only a 150 pieces with a very special presentation box that contains a watch display case shaped like a vintage automotive air filter.

Now, the main difference between this watch and the previously released Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2008 —Limited Edition of only 100 pieces ref. 26184ST.00.D003CU.01— is that the dial on this newer reference is white opposed to black on its predecessor. Image below courtesy of: TempoInverso.com

The Tour Optic Auto 2000 2012 race was held from April 16th thru the 21st and is Organized by Peter Auto for the Fédération Française du Sport Automobile —FFSA— with licenses from ASA Tour Auto. For an entry fee of €8,300 entrants get five days of competition driving all the way from Paris to a southern destination in France that is typically Nice or Biarritz. The rally race is open to 200 cars which —or the model of which— have participated between 1951 and 1973 in the Tour Optic Auto race. In 2013, the race —22nd Tour Auto Optic 2ooo— took place from April 22nd thru the 27th and for the first time, the finish line was in the southwestern French city of La Rochelle. Audemars Piguet has been the official timekeeper of the competition since 2006, reason why they decided to launch this special watch.

Fitted with the traditional Royal Oak Offshore 42 mm case, this watch in stainless steel features a beautiful white Méga Tapisserie dial with contrasting colors inspired by the French flag with blue chrono counters at 6 and 9 o'clock, white running seconds register at 12 o'clock, blue Arabic numerals, white gold hands with red luminescent coating and a white tachymeter flange with red scale. If you like blue and red, this is perhaps the most appealing and beautiful dials on any Royal Oak Offshore launched to date.

To round out the spectacular look of the watch, Audemars Piguet decided to carefully engrave the case back with the Tour Auto logo and pair the watch with a hornback alligator strap in blue with red contrasting stitching. This watch just like most other Offshores is fitted with a deployant buckle.

The Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2012 is as rare as it gets and one Offshore that is extremely hard to find. On our way out we just couldn't get it out of our head. If you are ready to get a very special limited edition Royal Oak Offshore chronograph that is not the Rubens Barrichelo II reviewed here and that everyone wants, then this is the one. Now, if you can find a Royal Oak Offshore Gentleman Driver Limited Edition that would be a very close contender to this one, if not even superior.

Sticker Price $34,200 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Cartier Unveils Two Amazing Rotonde Timepieces. Presenting the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon and the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire.

Celebrating Cartier style in Fine Watchmaking is the Maison's creative approach for 2014. Style is a question of elegance and balance. It is the fountain-head of constant research, supported by technical expertise with a drive that redefines and questions watchmaking conventions by reinventing traditional complications such as the perpetual calendar or by transforming the timeless Tank model. Cartier's achievements in Fine Watchmaking are the fruit of a constantly innovative approach at the service of highly distinctive aesthetics. Its past as an inventor and designer has given rise to a style that favors volume and shapes. The same drive can be seen in the Maison's technical concepts: their freedom and importance have enabled Cartier to revolutionize the representation of time with Fine Watchmaking pieces that adhere to the Manufacture's highest standards. For this 2014 edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, Cartier expresses the excellence of its craftsmanship with the launch of innovative timepieces bearing the Maison's creative seal.

The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is the fruit of a technical and creative ambition that for Cartier consists of bringing together two complications in a daring display. Removed from its strictly horological role, in which it serves as a guarantee of precision and prestige, a tourbillon has been incorporated into a moon phase complication, with each one dependent on the other. The watch owes its name to the stylized portrayal of the globe and the moon represented by a tourbillon. Together, they form a creative and animated world with skeletonized Roman numerals surrounding this dynamic feat of watchmaking. The moon-phase mechanism of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is founded on a creative and complex design that combines a tourbillon, moon phase on demand and a second time zone. The Tourbillon mechanism is a complex complication that falls within the expertise of a limited number of watchmakers. Its main function is to fight against the effects of gravity when the watch is in a vertical position. Because it appears in its original form and exists only when its user wishes it to, the moon phase on the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch reveals a technical creativity that is doubly innovative. By pressing the push-button situated at four o'clock on the side of the case, a panels descends and partially obscures the Tourbillon carriage. The crescent thus formed reproduces exactly the moon's shape in the sky.

The second time zone of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is indicated by a 24-hour disc that was entirely redeveloped by for the calibre 9440 MC due to the sophistication of its disc display. The result of painstaking work, polished lapis lazuli is used for the dial and the moon panel on the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch. The hours and the second time zone are surrounded by a meticulously polished grid in 18-carat white gold. A three-dimensional dial is one of the signature features of the Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection, alongside Roman numerals that are openworked and chamfered by the hand of a master decorator in a manner akin to a skeleton movement. The exceptional finishes of the 9440 MC are all the more remarkable because the semi-skeletonized bridges on the back of the movement are structured in a star shape, echoing this precious timepiece's lunar and terrestrial character on the case back. With the the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch, the Maison Cartier has created a timepiece that displays an exceptional level of creativity and craftsmanship.

Technical Specifications of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon

Case: platinum
Diameter: 47 mm
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Crown: beaded in platinum set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Dial: Lapis lazuli with an 18-carat white gold grid in the form of Roman numerals
Bezel: platinum
Hands: sword-shaped blued-steel
Casing-up diameter: 47 mm
Case thickness: 16.65 mm
Strap: black alligator-skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 bar / 100 feet
Movement: Manufacture mechanical with manual winding, calibre 9440 MC, tourbillon, second time zone, moon phase on demand
Casing-up diameter: 17¼ lines, i.e. 38.8 mm
Total diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 5.65 mm
Number of jewels: 40
Number of parts: 362
Balance: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 3 days
Limited series of 50 numbered pieces.


The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch transforms the very essence of the perpetual calendar's functioning and appearance. The Maison's idea involves inventing a creative central display that stems from a revolutionary concept. Designed like an amphitheater, with the intention of clarifying the perpetual calendar's indications, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's display is an incredible watchmaking feat. It overcomes numerous readability issues that are specific to the traditional approach to this complication, which requires the juxtaposition of twelve months, seven days, the date and the type of year in a diameter of just a few centimeters. Arranged three-dimensionally in concentric levels, the display of the perpetual calendar's functions is spread over the different levels: the day is indicated on the first. It is followed by the month on the second, which is itself surmounted by the date. Thin windows move along these tiers. The perpetual calendar's final function is indicated by a hand located on the back of watch and shows what type of year it is: a leap year or a normal year.

Consisting of gear trains, the construction of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement is a watchmaking feat that solves all the functional and ergonomic problems connected with this type of complication. It breaks away from the design of traditional perpetual calendars and introduces an alternative that enables any risk of breakage to be anticipated, adjustment errors to be resolved and chronometry to be improved. Partially patented, the gear train system of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's 9459 MC movement replaces the traditional lever and spring mechanisms with a gear train mechanism that substantially limits the risk of breakage when the watch is over-wound at inadvisable times. The traditional design of a perpetual calendar prohibits any manual correction several hours before and after midnight at the risk of breaking the mechanism. The adjustments made using four minuscule push-pieces on the side of the case are impractical and never clearly identified. This operating problem no longer exists with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement thanks to a setting system that uses the crown.
In addition to the traditional setting of the hour and minute, the crown also controls the date and month indicators. This ease of use is further increased by the possibility of correcting the functions both forwards and backwards. Wearers of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch need no longer fear going beyond the current date as this error is easily corrected.

The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch houses at its heart a flying tourbillon: a complication that is emblematic of the Fine Watchmaking collection. The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch is certified "Poinçon de Genève", in accordance with the new regulations' requirements. The self-winding calibre 9459 MC is assembled and adjusted in the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking workshops located in the heart of Geneva, upstairs from the Cartier boutique on the rue de Rhône. Its finishes were carried out according to the standards of the most prestigious watchmaking certification. Combining watchmaking innovation and technical creativity, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch follows in the footsteps of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur and Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon watches, thus taking its place as a major complication in Cartier's repertoire of watchmaking craftsmanship.

Technical Specifications of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire

Case: platinum
Diameter: 45 mm
Crown: beaded in platinum, set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Dial: silver-colored Bezel: platinum
Hands: sword-shaped blued-steel
Casing-up diameter: 45 mm
Case thickness: 15.1 mm
Strap: black alligator-skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 bar / 100 feet
Movement: Manufacture mechanical with automatic winding, calibre 9459 MC, tourbillon and perpetual calendar with circular display, "Poinçon de Genève" certified timepiece
Casing-up diameter: 14 lines, i.e. 31.38 mm
Total diameter: 32 mm
Thickness: 8.1 mm
Number of jewels: 51
Number of parts: 382
Balance: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 50 hours
Limited series of 100 numbered pieces.

For more info on Cartier click here.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Zenith Presents the Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903. A Limited Edition of 1,903 Pieces.

In their bicycle shop in Dayton Ohio, Wilbur and Orville Wright dreamed of wideopen spaces and freedom. These natural-born inventors conceived a first glider that they launched on the Kitty Hawk dunes in North Carolina. At the same time, they built a wind tunnel to study various technical aspects such as the profile of the wings. Constantly perfecting their prototypes, they installed a stabiliser at the front of a second glider, and then a steering rudder at the back of a third that could thus be controlled: a world first in the field of aeronautics! After hundreds of trials, the two brothers decided to move a step forwards by equipping their glider with an engine. Lying face down on the lower wing of the twin-propeller aircraft named “Flyer”, Orville Wright achieved the first powered, heavier-than-air controlled flight in history, on Kitty Hawk beach. The young man covered a distance of 40 metres at a height of 60 centimeters off the ground. The date was December 17th 1903. Representing a major milestone in aviation history the year 1903 now gives its name to a timepiece created by Zenith as a tribute to the Wright brothers: Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903.

Zenith was one of the first watch manufacturers to create flight instruments to equip various aircraft and spaceships manned by the aviation pioneers. Known for their precision and exceptional ability to withstand vibrations, magnetic fields and variations in temperature, the Zenith altimeters, watches, onboard and wristworn chronographs became extremely popular with pilots, who were thus accompanied in their feats by the brand with the guiding star. In just over a century, Louis Blériot, Léon Morane, or more recently Felix Baumgartner, accomplished their destiny and put their name in the history books with a Zenith instrument on their wrist or on their cockpit controls.

Drawing upon these historical roots, the piece features a case made of black DLC-coated titanium that is therefore ultra-light despite its 48mm diameter. The ratcheted crown typical of historical aviator watches ensures a perfect grip even with pilot’s gloves. The five-time sandblasted black dial reproduces the generous original Arabic numerals ensuring perfect readability day or night. The luminous glow of these delightfully vintage figures stems from a first “old radium” treatment covered with a more classic superluminova treatment. The effect is fascinating and the resulting appearance truly unique, since this ingenious combination creates a creamy shade enlivened by tiny retro accents that cannot be identically reproduced from one watch to the next. Each dial thus becomes unique and further heightens the exclusive character of the 1903-piece limited edition, of which the individual number appears on a special plate screwed to the case band, like an aircraft rivet.

The piece serves as an invitation to travel thanks to a second time-zone indicator powered by the Elite Calibre 693 movement. Finelyadorned with a Côtes de Genève motif even though it remains hidden from sight, it ticks off time at the rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 50-hour power reserve. Beneath this elegant mechanical heart, the case-back, is adorned with a stamped insignia depicting Orville Wright about the “Flyer”, with his brother Wilbur running along Kitty Hawk beach to follow the feat being accomplished on December 17th 1903.

A sturdy wristband crafted in beige suede leather sets the finishing touch to this model. Its lining features a heat-embossed motif in which connoisseurs will note the inscription “Zenith Flying Instruments” as well as the brand’s historical logo, thus underlining the spirit of an era in which the skies were still waiting to be conquered.

Sticker Price TBC For more info on Zenith click here.

Technical Specifications of the Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740

MOVEMENT
Elite 693, automatic
Calibre: 11 ½ ‘‘‘ (Diameter: 25.6 mm)
Thickness: 3.94 mm
Components: 186
Jewels: 26
Frequency: 28,800 VpH – (4 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern

FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the center
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
24-hour second time-zone indicator

CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: Titanium case with DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating
Diameter: 48 mm
Diameter opening: 40 mm
Thickness: 15.80 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Zenith Flying Instruments logo
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Matte black
Hour-markers: SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium
Hands: Black ruthenium, satin-finished with
SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium

REFERENCE
96.2431.693/ 21.C740
Vintage-effect nubuck heat-embossed with “Zenith Flying Instruments” logo
Steel pin buckle with black DLC coating

Time Machine: Visiting a Very Impressive Collection of Vintage Timepieces in Chicago. Part One.

Today, we are starting a new series of posts called the 'Time Machine'. On the 'Time Machine' you will be able to experience with us some of the most fascinating collections of vintage and rare watches from private collectors around the world. This time, is the turn for a private collector in Chicago that has chosen to remain anonymous. Our friendship with this collector started after spotting a beautiful Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX5 World Chronograph on his wrist inside an elevator. After a very brief conversation with him, he asked us to follow him to his office to show us the real good stuff. This collector owns close to 500 timepieces and this is just the first of many posts we will be publishing regarding his vintage timepieces, clocks and assorted watch paraphernalia. Now, keep in mind we will be featuring all sorts of watches within these collections regardless of their price, just because we love watches as much as you do and because some of these timepieces have an interesting place in the history of horology.

News: Pre-SIHH 2014 IWC Presents the Revamped Aquatimer Collection. Six New Watches Including One in Bronze.

New Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” Ref. IW379503

The evolution of the diver’s watches from IWC continues. The 2014 Aquatimer collection from IWC Schaffhausen comes with inspired technical features, even more in-house calibres and a patented IWC bracelet quick-change system. For the first time ever, a haute horlogerie complication in the form of a perpetual calendar with a large digital date display appears in this watch family. Bronze likewise makes its debut as a metal for the case of the new Aquatimer Chronograph Edition "Expedition Charles Darwin" ref. IW379503. The Swiss watch manufacturer is also launching four special editions in support of the work of the Charles Darwin Foundation and the Cousteau Society.

The fact that the new Aquatimer watch collection is being launched against the stupendous backdrop of the Galapagos Islands is no coincidence. “Very few regions on Earth are home to such a fascinating diversity of species, both on land and in the ocean, as this unique archipelago,” continues Georges Kern. “Our Aquatimer watches are the perfect companion for demanding expeditions above and below water, and are entirely in their element in this natural paradise. But the massive extent of the threat posed to this World Heritage Site is also clear to us.”

Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” Ref. IW379502

For the first time ever, a model from the IWC diver’s watch line is equipped with a perpetual calendar, a genuinely haute horlogerie complication. The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month ref. IW379401 is a genuinely big watch from two points of view. On the one hand, there is the IWC-manufactured 89801 calibre with perpetual calendar and large digital display for the date and month, a feature very much in the Pallweber tradition of 1884. On the other, the flagship of the new collection —which is limited to just 50 watches, incidentally— comes with an impressive case diameter of 49 mm. This makes the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month the second-largest wristwatch in IWC’s history, after the Big Pilot’s Watch of 1940. Following in the footsteps of the GST Deep One of 1999 and the Aquatimer Deep Two of 2009, the Aquatimer Deep Three in titanium ref. IW355701 is the third generation of IWC’s diver’s watches to feature a mechanical depth gauge. Both the depth gauge and the rotating bezel system have been continuously developed and improved. During a dive, the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, while the red maximum depth indicator remains at the maximum depth attained, down to a maximum of 50 metres. The Aquatimer Deep Three thus provides a complete backup system to a dive computer. Built for extreme depths, the Aquatimer Automatic 2000 ref. IW358002, water-resistant to 200 bar, continues IWC’s tradition of manufacturing timepieces that can withstand extraordinarily high pressures for both amateur and professional divers. Its titanium case and minimalist design are reminiscent of another iconic IWC model: the Ocean 2000, created by Ferdinand A. Porsche in 1982. The Aquatimer Automatic 2000 features the rugged IWC-manufactured 80110 calibre with Pellaton winding system. With the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “50 Years Science for Galapagos” ref. IW379504, limited to 500 watches, IWC honours the 50th anniversary of the Charles Darwin Research Station, a scientific institution set up by the Charles Darwin Foundation. The Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” ref. IW379502, which comes with identical technology, has been an expression of IWC’s commitment to the threatened archipelago. Both watches are powered by an IWC-manufactured 89365 calibre and have an attractive black rubber coating. With the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” ref. IW379503, IWC Schaffhausen traces the journey of the well-known naturalist to the Galapagos Islands. Here, Darwin collected the evidence that formed the basis of his theory on the origin of species. As a tribute to this event, and for the first time ever, IWC Schaffhausen makes use of bronze for a watch case: the metal alloy was one of the materials typically used in shipbuilding at that time. This special edition is also equipped with the IWC manufactured 89365 calibre.

Aquatimer Automatic 2000 Ref. IW358002

“The 2014 Aquatimer collection perfectly epitomizes the concept of evolution: remaining successful is all about continuous development,” says Goris Verburg, Director Marketing & Communication IWC Schaffhausen. “That’s the reason why we gave the watch family its first comprehensive relaunch since 2009, without altering its DNA. We retained the qualities our customers appreciate so highly in the Aquatimer watches – the fact that they’re robust and elegant, as equally well suited to diving or an expedition to the Galapagos as to a business meeting. The combination of sport and adventure, outstanding technology and masculine appeal embodied by the diver’s watches perfectly reflects the central message of IWC ‘Engineered for men’.”

The most conspicuous technical modification in the new Aquatimer generation is the innovative external/internal rotating bezel complete with IWC SafeDive system. The mechanism combines the advantages of an internal rotating bezel, which engages precisely in steps of one minute and protects the mechanism against dirt and seawater, with the ease of use of an external rotating bezel that can be moved simply by a diver wearing gloves or with cold fingers. A sliding clutch system connects the two rings by the rotation of the external bezel being transmitted to the inside of the case and the internal bezel. For safety reasons, the internal bezel only moves anticlockwise. This ensures that, even if a diver were to move the bezel accidentally, zero hour – the time at which he can return safely to the surface without the need for decompression stops – would not be exceeded. The Super-LumiNova®* coating for the dive time scale on the internal bezel guarantees excellent legibility at all times, no matter how poor the visibility. The two colours, which glow in the dark, are also an aid to orientation on the dial: green for displays relevant to dive time, blue for the hour display.

For more info on IWC Schaffhausen click here.

Experience: Happy New Year 2014. May All Your Dreams Come True.

Today on the first day of the New Year 2014, we want to wish everyone health, love, happiness and wealth for the new year that just started. We would also like to thank you for your undivided support last year and may all your dreams come true this year.

Meanwhile —as we get ready to go back to our usual schedule and publishing frequency tomorrow—, enjoy this image of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee ref. 5036420.

Happy New Year 2014!!!!

Experience: 2013 The Year in Review. 12 Amazing Watches in 24 Pictures.

As we wrap up the year and we say goodbye to the old to welcome the new, here are twelve amazing timepieces we reviewed this year to celebrate each month of the year. These 24 images tell a story and capture the best of these fascinating watches. If you want to check the full review for each timepiece, just click on the watch's name.

While there are many more amazing timepieces that we reviewed or that were presented in 2013, we feel that these timepieces are some of our favorites and all of them are great examples of fine horology.

May the new year bring you and your families lots of health, love, happiness and wealth to buy more watches!!! Happy New Year 2014 from Watch Collecting Lifestyle!!!.

Now, enjoy.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

Experience: Doucal's Five Eyelet Wing Tip Shoes. A Shoemaker Founded the Year After the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was Born.

Nestled in the enchanting Marche Region of Italy is the town of Montegranaro —located a 110 miles East of Perugia— home to Italy's heart for handcrafted glamorous footwear and the place where Mario Giannini founded Doucal's in 1973, the year after the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was born.

The brand, known initially as Duca —meaning "Duke”— to identify a product which was developed for an elite clientèle. Mario's dream and his passion for English shoes took him to England where he took an internship in the British Shoe Manufacturer District and learned all the secrets of the various construction methods and the rules of English style. After several months of training, his desire was to create shoes that endured through time, but that were also comfortable to wear in comparison to the rigidity of English shoes. Following his passion and everything he learned in England, Mario decided to anglicize the name of his company from Duca into Doucal's.

Doucal's shoes are now conceived to look like English shoes while incorporating the comfort of an Italian shoe that is guaranteed by a liner in the insole with an activated carbon coating which guarantees the foot great comfort and freshness, combined with anti-bacterial action. This peculiarity has given Doucal's shoes an advantage that has been much appreciated by new emerging markets, more interested in comfort than rigidity. Always evolving, Giannini's second generation guards well the traditions of the “Made in Italy” elegant Italian craftsmanship while embracing the modern perspective of fashion and style.

If you are ready to wear an exclusive brand that comes with history, handmade craftsmanship, amazing details and design straight from Italy, Doucal's is the brand. These shoes are as well crafted and durable as Bally, Church's or Allen Edmonds. The first three words that come to mind when wearing a pair of Doucal's are elegance, comfort and Italy.

Sticker Price $350 USD. For more info on Doucal's click here.

Experience: Rob Montana The Strap Smith. Enhancing the Vintage Look of Watches.

Rob Montana the man behind The Strap Smith comes from a lineage of leather makers and son to a 4-H leather instructor. Rob is one of six children that grew up surrounded by the world of leather in a small town in northwest Montana and a man that enjoys the outdoors, racing motorcycles, sailing, traveling, backpacking, rock climbing and skiing and someone that became a full time strap maker in 2007 after quitting his day job.

Since he was a little kid he had been fascinated with watches but never thought he would be able to afford a really nice watch. Through his appreciation for high quality hand made items with great attention to detail he runs one of the most successful vintage strap businesses in the watch world and a name that is synonym for some of the best vintage aftermarket straps for Panerai, Bell & Ross, Rolex, IWC, U-BOAT, Breitling, Tudor and many others. Rob had even outfitted Jay Leno's watches with his straps.  

Few leather straps come with so much passion as those from The Strap Smith handmade by Rob in Whitefish, Montana. Whitefish is a small town with a population of 6,357 and home to a ski resort on Big Mountain called Whitefish Mountain Resort right next to Glacier National Park. Rob Montana's name is not only very well known in the Paneristi community but also at the headquarters of Detroit based Shinola, whom he's been working with on everything leather related. Rob is an adventure seeker and watch collector that started his collection with a Fortis Chronograph and quickly grew into Panerai with a PAM 88. Today, the Panerai PAM 243 is his favorite and daily wearer.

Rob's vintage straps are made out of World War I vintage ammo pouches from Sweden. Even though, Rob offers a wide selection of custom straps through his website, nothing compares to the rugged and vintage nature of these straps with their particular musty smell that you can even notice when your watch is sitting next to your bed on your night stand.

All Rob Montana straps are hand cut, hand stitched and marked by Rob out of his workshop in Montana. What makes these straps even more unique —other than the interesting provenance of the leather— is that Rob is one of the few true full-time custom strap makers in the U.S.; therefore, every order is personal, from the first email a customer receives to the postage label that was placed with Rob's hands. All straps are custom made to order and you can choose everything from the the type of leather to be used for your strap to the length, the width, type of buckle, strap perforations and even the stitching. You could also just choose no buckle and use your own OEM buckle. In this case we wanted to add a little bit more character to the strap and decided to go with the PIG/SLC in negative relief.

If you are looking to enhance even more the vintage look of your your PAM 372 Luminor 1950 3 Days or any other Panerai from the historical collection, make sure you get one of these vintage straps fitted with a PIG buckle. As you can see, the color on the strap we fitted to the 372 is a perfect match to the luminova on the dial and with this change the watch became even more appealing and way more vintage looking.

On the wrist, the strap feels very solid, comfortable and the desired vintage look is just unparalleled. The strap is very thick but very supple at the same time and the contrast stitching is the cherry on top of the cake.

Sticker Price Starting at $200 USD. For more info on The Strap Smith click here.

Insider: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss. A Truly Anti-Magnetic Watch with a Display Case Back.

Before we go into our in-depth review of the new Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss ref. 231.10.42.21.01.002, let's start by providing you with some historical context and explaining what is truly considered an anti-magnetic watch. An anti-magnetic watch is one that is able to run with minimal deviation when exposed to a certain level of magnetic field. The ISO —International Organization for Standardization— issued a standard for magnetic resistant watches, which many countries have adopted and which is referred as the ISO 764 Horology—Magnetic Resistant Watches. According to ISO 764, a watch must resist exposition to a direct current magnetic field of 4,800 Amperes by meter and keep its accuracy to ± 30 seconds/day as measured before the test in order to be acknowledged as a magnetic resistant watch. To give you some context of electromagnetic fields in gauss, a small neodymium-iron-boron NIB magnet creates a field of 2,000 gauss and an MRI machine anywhere between 600-70,000 gauss.

The first recorded experiments in anti-magnetic watchmaking date back to 1846 when the watchmakers from Vacheron Constantin were among the first to experiment with anti-magnetic features assembling the first anti-magnetic watch only several decades later in 1915. Their watch was able to withstand magnetic fields because some of its parts were made of non-magnetic metals with a palladium balance wheel, balance spring and lever shaft. Later, in 1929, Tissot assembled the first ever non-magnetic wristwatch.

Image from Christie's.

Since their appearance, anti-magnetic watches have been favored by people who deal with high magnetic fields. They are widespread among electronic engineers and in other professions where strong magnetic fields are present. Today, even divers' watches according to ISO 6425 must be anti-magnetic. There are two ways of creating an anti-magnetic watch, the first is by using different non-ferrous alloys —like the Glucydur balance and Nivarox hairsprings— in the movement components and the second one is to house the movement in a casing made of soft iron like on the Rolex Milgauss or the IWC Ingenieur.

This year, Omega created the first anti-magnetic watch in their line-up by launching the Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss ref. 231.10.42.21.01.002, a very special stainless steel watch fitted with the Omega Co-Axial caliber 8508, one of the most dramatic technological innovations resistant to magnetic fields greater than 1.5 tesla —15,000 gauss—, exceeding the levels of magnetic resistance achieved by any other watch ever made. As a reference, the new Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss can withstand 15 times more magnetism than the Rolex Milgauss —1000 gauss.

The Seamaster Aqua Terra > 15,000 Gauss is fitted with a 41.50 mm stainless steel case with brushed and polished areas and with a matching bracelet or on a brown leather strap —ref. 231.12.42.21.01.001. The watch is fitted with a very distinctive sunburst black lacquered dial with the traditional vertical lines of the dials on the Aqua Terra watches, applied markers with luminescent material, a yellow minute track, a date aperture at 3 o'clock, a yellow transferred legend that reads '> 15’000 GAUSS' and a very nice seconds hand in the traditional black and yellow colors of the magnetic field warning symbols.

The bracelet is nicely done with a double folding clasp and polished center links. The bracelet is extremely light but quite comfortable on the wrist.

The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic Omega in-house calibre 8508 fully made of non-ferrous components to guarantee its anti-magnetic properties. The movement provides a power reserve of 60 hours when fully wound. The technology developed by a team of ETA, Asulab, Nivarox FAR and Omega engineers led to the first prototype of the movement. Unlike other efforts to combat the effects of magnetism, this Omega movement does not rely on a protective case inside the watch case but on the use of selected non-ferromagnetic materials in the movement itself. Several patents are pending for the new movement which, even after exposure to a magnetic field greater than 15,000 gauss, still performs at a chronometric level as defined by COSC. The greatest advantage besides its anti-magnetic properties, is that the movement can be fully appreciated via the display case back, unlike the Rolex Milgauss or the IWC Ingenieur. The watch is also waterproof rated to a depth of 150 meters/500 feet.

On the wrist the watch wears nothing but comfortable. The case is quite thin making it quite easy to be tucked under the cuff of a shirt. This is a watch that is definitely one than can be a great conversation piece and a reliable timepiece with a movement that is a real workhorse.

We would like to provide special thanks to our friends at the Tourbillon Boutique in Chicago for letting us come in and review this timepiece now that the press loaners are quite scarce these days. 

Sticker Price $6,600 USD. For more info on Omega click here.

Insider: Richard Mille RM011 Le Mans Classic. Enough Blue and Yellow Accents to Make it Stand Out.

How often do you run into a Richard Mille watch in the wild? The most probable answer is, never. Now, the chances of running into a RM011 Le Mans Classic Limited Edition in the wild, are even more slim. The new Richard Mille RM011 Le Mans Classic Limited Edition is truly an amazing timepiece now fitted with a 24-hour chronograph instead of the traditional 12-hour chronograph on other Felipe Massa RM011s. As it is the norm with Richard Mille watches, the dial is skeletonized featuring white Arabic numerals, a 60-minute chrono-register at 9, a 24-hour chrono-register at 6, running seconds at 3 o'clock and month aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock as this watch is an annual calendar as well. The iconic big date display on Richard Mille watches at 12 o'clock provides a very unique touch to the skeleton dial and the blue and yellow accents on the registers provide a perfectly balanced dial with enough contrast to make the watch stand out. The 24-hour chrono register features a special yellow marker at the 16th hour to immortalize the time at which — traditionally until 2008— the race used to start on Saturdays at 16:00 hours. Only 150 pieces are available of this limited edition watch.

The Richard Mille Le Mans Classic Limited Edition is a very advanced time measuring device. Fitted with a tripartite titanium case measuring 50x40mm and a thickness of 16.15mm, the RM011 Le Mans Classic Limited Edition provides an amazing wrist presence with lightness and comfort that is just unbeatable. Richard Mille created this special chronograph to commemorate their involvement with the 2012 Le Mans Classic event as sponsor and official timekeeper. With its white carbon fiber flange around the edge of the dial, the white and green checkered Le Mans Classic logo located at 12 o'clock, the blue rubberized crown ring and the light blue and yellow accents, this watch is just exceptional.

This watch is fitted with the Richard Mille calibre RM011-S—an automatic movement with a rotor with variable geometry and power reserve of 55 hours— that is fully visible via the double-coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal on the case back. The details on the case are just exceptional and a real treat for the eyes. With a case assembled with 16 spline screws—in grade 5 titanium— and abrasion resistant washers—in copper-nickel-zinc alloy—, this piece is literally every watchlifestyler's dream.

 As you can see, every single detail on this watch has been meticulously taken care of and you definitely can't go wrong buying one. On the wrist, the watch wears extremely comfortably and with a wrist presence that is unparalleled. After reviewing several Richard Mille Felipe Massa watches, we think this is the nicest of all Felipe Massa RM011s ever made.

Sticker Price $125,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.  

Experience: Our First Nine Months in Pictures. This is Why Watch Collecting is Our Passion.

During the short but exciting existence of our blog —only nine months live— we've come to realize how fulfilling it is to have such a large following in such a short period of time. Our watch blog was launched on April 1st, 2013 and so far it has been a very exciting adventure.

We would like to thank our contributors, the manufactures that have allowed us review their collections, but foremost, we thank each and everyone of you that come read our content on a daily basis or a few times a week. To all those of you that have stumbled upon our blog while searching for that next grail or that special watch that you just have to have, we thank you deeply for bookmarking our site and becoming regulars.

As we approach the end of the year, looking forward to our new watch adventures that will kick-off at the SIHH 2014 in Geneva, we would like to do a quick recap of our first nine months with a photo essay that will show you why watch collecting is our passion and why we love what we do for you.

Now, click on the gallery below and enjoy the ride as much as we had so far.

Insider: Glashütte Original Sixties Square Chronograph. Reminescent of the Mad Men Era.

This time we decided to skip the long detailed review and focus on sharing some nice live pictures of this flawless vintage inspired timepiece. The Glashütte Original Sixties Square Chronograph ref. 1-39-34-02-32-04 is a timepiece that truly transports us back to the 1960s and the Mad Men era. With its perfectly square cushioned shaped case in stainless steel measuring 41.35mm by 41.35mm and its black domed galvanized dial, this 30-minute chronograph clearly evokes the early days of GUB and its transformation into Glashütte Original with the first Spezimatics and Spezichrons.

This exceptional example of Saxonian watchmaking is powered by the Glashütte Original automatic calibre 39-34 composed of 51 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 40 hours while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. Fitted with a gorgeous black alligator strap with pin buckle this watch is nothing but comfortable and elegant. The domed sapphire crystal on the front along with the domed sapphire crystal display case back complete the vintage essence of this timepiece.

Next time you get all envious while looking at Don Draper's wrist during one of those old classic Mad Men episodes, just relax and look at your wrist sporting this beautiful Sixties Square Chronograph. Then, tell yourself "What is there to be envious about?", at the end of the day you are wearing this flawless execution of a vintage inspired timepiece that looks and feels extremely vintage but without the potential headaches of a true vintage watch. Now, in case you don't fancy the black dial, this watch is also available with silver dial with rose gold markers, numerals and hands.

Sticker Price $9,300 USD. For more info on Glashütte Original click here.