Back in 2010, MB&F partnered with Parisian jewelry house Boucheron to create the JwlryMachine. This time, they’ve joined forces with Bulgari out of Rome. The new MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra X Bulgari was initially motivated by mutual professional respect and subsequently evolved into a strong friendship between Bulgari’s Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani; and MB&F’s Founder and Creative Director, Maximilian Büsser. The FlyingT Allegra, a joint and unexpected feminine creation merging various skills, but above all two mindsets.
This story is also that of an unlikely connection, of two paradoxes combining to form a single, homogeneous and sophisticated whole. It is also the story of an encounter between two unusual and unconventional creative approaches. When MB&F and Bulgari decide to join forces, the result can only be extraordinary, in the truest sense of the word.
Max Büsser and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani
Both Bulgari and MB&F display strong character in their respective fields yet are also very different. The Rome-based Maison is known for its love of cabochon-cut colored gems in jewelry watch creations. MB&F works on volumes and complexity. The choice to revisit MB&F's Legacy Machine FlyingT was thus both natural and logical since FlyingT Allegra incorporates both sensibilities. Radical in terms of its architecture and construction, while exquisitely precious in terms of its opulent ornamentation, this creation was intended as a tribute to femininity. In its name FlyingT, the T stands for the initial of Max Büsser's wife, Tiffany, as well as for flying Tourbillon. In an ultimate refined touch embodying this sophisticated approach, the movement is designed in such a way that only its owner can read the time.
This unusual construction with its feminine-themed design could not have been more appropriate for Bulgari. The volumes of the watch —featuring a case entirely redesigned by Bulgari to give it a futuristic and opulent profile— are matched by those of the colored stones. These gems serve to counterbalance the cold precision and micro-mechanical complexity of this model by instilling the Roman jeweler’s warm and exuberant signature touch. For each of the 20 timepieces composing the two 18K red gold or 18K white gold limited editions, jewelers have carefully selected tourmaline, tsavorite, diamonds, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite, and topaz, in an exceptional composition forming a full circle around the movement. The dial entirely paved with snow-set diamonds provides a dazzling backdrop.
In contrast to conventional high jewelry codes, Bulgari has always favored the use of colored stones rather than diamonds alone. Colored gems enable the Rome-based Maison to create authentic compositions through a gradual process aimed at achieving harmony and chromatic power adapted to the design of the model. The cut is very important, and Bulgari favors the cabochon which ensures extreme clarity of the stone while emphasizing the opulence of the creation. The cabochon cut perfectly matches the FlyingT Allegra’s round and voluminous case.
This exceptional partnership goes far beyond the realm of the complicated feminine jewelry watch. It highlights two visions of the world, two interpretations of creativity that are radically different in form, yet which merge in substance within an integrated and harmonious co-creation vividly demonstrating the power of two. Even a special presentation box was designed for this project between MB&F and Bulgari.
The MB&F LM FlyingT Allegra X Bulgari features a case measuring 39 mm x 20 mm —in either 18K pink or white gold— and a dial paved with diamonds. For the 18K white gold version, the dial and crown are set with brilliant-cut diamonds —0.24ct—, brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and buckle — 2.80ct—, three tsavorites in a square, pear and round cut shapes —1.33ct—, one oval topaz —0.71ct—, one oval amethyst —0.4ct—, one round tanzanite —0.43ct— and one round tourmaline —0.06ct.
For the 18K red gold version, the dial and crown are set with brilliant-cut diamonds —0.24ct—, brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and buckle — 2.80ct—, two tsavorites in a square and round cut shapes —0.38ct—, two tourmalines in an oval and round cut shapes —0.64ct—, one oval tanzanite —0.47ct—, one pear amethyst —0.70ct—, and one round rubellite —0.39ct.
The MB&F FlyingT movement features three-dimensional vertical architecture, automatic winding, a central flying 60-second tourbillon, and a three-dimensional sun winding rotor in 18k 5N+ red gold, titanium, and platinum. The movement provides a power reserve of 100 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 18,000 vph.
The new MB&F LM FlyingT Allegra X Bulgari is delivered on an alligator leather strap with an 18K white or red gold pin buckle matching the case. The watches are available in a limited edition of 20 pieces for each metal.
Sticker Price $185,000 USD. For more info on MB&F click here.
