There's a quiet confidence in a watch that doesn't need to shout. When Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Master Ultra Thin collection in 1993, drawing inspiration from their legendary 1.38 mm-thick Calibre 145 pocket watch movement of 1907—nicknamed "the knife" for its impossibly svelte profile—the Grande Maison established what a modern dress watch should be. Now, La Grande Maison breathes fresh contemporary allure into two of the Master Ultra-Thin collection's most beloved references with an exclusive grained copper dial that shifts from powdery softness to saturated warmth as light plays across its textured surface.
Things to Know About the Watches
The JLC Master Ultra Thin Date reference Q1238460, and JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon reference Q1368460 represent the quintessential marriage of technical sophistication and understated elegance. Both housed in polished stainless steel cases measuring 39 mm in diameter, these limited editions of 800 pieces each showcase Jaeger-LeCoultre's nearly two centuries of mechanical mastery from their fully integrated Manufacture in Switzerland's Vallée de Joux.
The dial execution demonstrates Jaeger-LeCoultre's obsession with balance and symmetry. Elongated trapezoid hour markers echo the geometry of the faceted Dauphine hands, where one face receives satin-brushing while the other is polished, creating visual intrigue from every angle. The Master Ultra Thin Date presents its complication through a crisp white date disc within a vertical rectangular window at 6 o'clock, while the Master Ultra Thin Moon features a recessed sub-dial combining moon phase and date: a silver moon against a deep blue starry background with black date numerals encircling the aperture.
The Movements
At just 7.9 mm thick, the Master Ultra Thin Date achieves remarkable proportions through the self-winding Calibre 899, while the Master Ultra Thin Moon measures a still-svelte 9.3 mm thanks to the moon phase-equipped Calibre 925. Both in-house movements have been refined over many years, with these latest iterations providing a generous 70-hour power reserve—a significant upgrade that speaks to continuous technical evolution.
Through the sapphire exhibition case backs, collectors can admire the meticulous finishing: Côtes de Genève, bevelled bridges, blue screws, and an open-worked 22K pink gold rotor that catches the eye with every movement. Both calibres provide a generous power reserve of 70 hours.
Every piece undergoes Jaeger-LeCoultre's rigorous 1,000 Hour Control—a testing protocol more stringent than official chronometry certification, examining both movement and fully cased-up watch.
On the Wrist & Price
Both watches arrive on brown alligator straps with stainless-steel quick-change folding clasps, offering versatility for any occasion. The warm copper dial creates a striking contrast against the cool polished steel case, elevating these timepieces beyond typical dress watch territory into contemporary collector territory.
Sticker Price USD 10,400 for the Date model and USD 12,600 for the Moon model. More info on Jaeger-LeCoultre here.
