There's something quietly revolutionary about making a perpetual calendar smaller. Not in the brash, record-chasing way, but in the considered, "this just feels right" way that only comes from 270 years of making watches. Vacheron Constantin's new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin collection shrinks things down to 36.5 mm, a size that whispers elegance rather than shouts it.
Vacheron Constantin is launching three models: 18K 5N pink gold, 18K white gold, and a diamond-set white gold model. These are the first non-gem-set Traditionnelle watches offered in this case size, paying homage to the legendary Reference 43031 from 1983, the watch that arguably saved haute horlogerie during the quartz crisis.
Things to Know About the Watch
The dial layout is a study in balanced complexity. Three symmetrically placed subdials at 9, 12, and 3 o'clock display day, month, and date respectively, while a combined moon phase and age indication sits at 6 o'clock against a deep blue backdrop. The silver-toned opaline dial provides the perfect canvas, punctuated by applied baton-style hour markers and faceted Dauphine hands—all in 18K 5N pink gold for the pink and white gold models.
The pink gold version ref. 4300T/000R-H107 achieves tonal harmony with matching hands and markers against a dark blue alligator strap. The white gold model ref. 4300T/000G-H106 plays with contrast, featuring pink gold accents and a fresh light-brown alligator strap. The diamond-set variant ref. 4305T/000G-H135 adds 76 brilliant-cut diamonds to the bezel and lugs—approx 0.96 carats—, plus a diamond-set crown and buckle, totaling approximately 1.19 carats.
The Movement
At just 8.43 mm thick, these watches slide under a cuff with aristocratic ease. Inside beats the Manufacture Calibre 1120 QP, a self-winding movement that's a masterclass in miniaturization at only 4.05 mm thick. With 276 components orchestrating the perpetual calendar complications, it tracks day, date, month, leap year, and the moon's phase and age—all requiring no adjustment until 2100.
Through the sapphire case back, you'll find Côtes de Genève, hand bevelling, and circular graining—finishes that earn the Hallmark of Geneva certification.
The 22K gold oscillating weight is open-worked in the shape of Vacheron Constantin's iconic Maltese cross, a detail that never gets old.
On the Wrist & Price
These watches represent something increasingly rare: technical prowess in service of wearability. At 36.5 mm, they work on virtually any wrist, masculine or feminine, offering approximately 40 hours of power reserve and 30 meters of water resistance. All pieces produced in 2025 will feature the 270th Anniversary emblem.
Sticker Price USD 100,000 non-diamond and USD 102,000 Diamond-set. More info on Vacheron Constantin, click here.
