The Ulysse Nardin El Toro/Black Toro GMT Perpetual ref. 326-03-3 is fitted with a very robust solid 18K rose gold case measuring 43mm in diameter and topped off with a fixed black ceramic 24-hour bezel and a black rubber strap with deployant buckle. El Toro, is perhaps the most robust and most user friendly Perpetual Calendar out there that also happens to also come with a sophisticated dual time zone complication. This watch is fitted with a stunning black dial with Côtes de Genève that could be perceived as slightly busy but somehow its striking design and beauty makes all elements flow nice and evenly. The dial features the traditional oversized skeletonized hands with luminescent material on the tips, day and month apertures next to the center pinion, seconds register at 9, year aperture at 6 and big date aperture at 1 o'clock. The black dial is nicely accentuated and balanced by the blued screws and the gold accents.
The fixed 24-hour black ceramic bezel is nicely finished with golden engraved numbers, a sun icon indicates noon time and a moon icon indicates midnight. The fixed bezel along with the dual time zone arrow-shaped hand are just perfect for those watchlifestylers wanting to keep track of two time zones at the same time. The independent dual time zone hand can be advanced or regressed by pressing the black ceramic pushers located on the case band. Each of these pushers features either a plus or minus sign to facilitate the use of the independent dual time zone hand. The minus pusher is located right below the winding crown at 4 o'clock and the plus pusher is located at 8 o'clock right below the plaque where the serial number is engraved.
The beating heart inside the Ulysse Nardin El Toro GMT Perpetual is the patented perpetual automatic calibre UN-032 with quickset for all perpetual calendar functions, a hometime/dualtime mechanism, 34 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 45 hours when fully wound. The beautifully decorated calibre is fully visible via the display case back. The watch is waterproof rated to a depth of 100 meters.
The El Toro is fitted with an ultra sporty rubber strap with blackened deployant buckle. The rubber on the strap is very soft and malleable. Perhaps the biggest downside of the strap, is that it needs to be cut in order to adjust its length to the wearer's wrist size leaving no room for future adjustments or modifications. Just the exact same way that the strap on the Patek Philippe Aquanaut needs to be adjusted. The rubber strap rounds up the sporty look of this marine chronometer way better than the optional crocodile one.
On the wrist, the watch seems to wear very comfortably, somewhat top heavy and true to its size. Unfortunately since we were only reviewing the watch we couldn't size the strap for a perfect fit. We are confident that once the strap is sized, the watch wears on the wrist just like a Sermoneta glove. Nice and perfect. If you are looking to get an ultra sporty perpetual calendar with a dual time complication, there's no other watch in the market that can compete against El Toro. Robust like a bull from Miura and sporty like a Lamborghini. The perfect fit for those seeking unparalleled wrist presence.
Sticker Price $55,500 USD. For more info on Ulysse Nardin click here.