Fifty years is a significant milestone in watchmaking, particularly when the watch in question helped define a pivotal era in the watch industry. In 1975, Girard-Perregaux introduced the Laureato, a watch that carved its own distinctive path through the landscape of luxury sports watches. Now, to commemorate this golden anniversary, the manufacture unveils the Laureato FIFTY—a limited edition of 200 pieces that honors its heritage while embracing contemporary horological excellence.
The original Laureato emerged during a transformative period in watchmaking, when integrated bracelet sports watches were redefining the concept of elegance. Unlike its angular contemporaries—the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the IWC Ingenieur SL, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus—the Laureato distinguished itself through refined subtlety: an octagonal bezel set upon a circular base, and fluid proportions that favored precision over provocation. It was luxury without ostentation, a philosophy that remains central to its identity today.
A Contemporary Execution of a Classic from 1975
The new Laureato FIFTY captures this essence while incorporating modern refinements. Housed in a 39 mm case measuring just 9.80 mm in height, the watch combines stainless steel with 3N yellow gold—a bi-color pairing that recalls the original 1975 model yet feels thoroughly contemporary.
The case architecture has been meticulously reworked with sharper angles and more pronounced bevels. At the same time, the iconic octagonal bezel alternates between satin and polished finishes, creating a sophisticated interplay with light. Flat sapphire crystals adorn both the dial and the display case back, contributing to the watch's visual finesse. Remarkably, for a timepiece of this refinement, it achieves 150 meters of water resistance.
The sunray grey dial showcases the signature ‘Clous de Paris’ guilloché pattern, enhanced by 3N gold-plated indexes and baton-style hands filled with luminescent material. The central seconds hand features a counterweight shaped like one of the ends of the Girard-Perregaux double-arrow emblem, while a date aperture at 3 o'clock displays on a disc color-matched to the dial—details that demonstrate absolute respect for the highest standards of haute horlogerie finishing.
The integrated bracelet exemplifies the marriage of aesthetics and ergonomics. Its tapered design features steel 'H' links that progressively narrow toward the clasp, with slightly shorter links on this new model allowing the bracelet to follow the wrist's natural curve more closely. Central links in yellow gold are subtly more domed than their steel counterparts, creating dimensional depth. The triple-folding clasp, engraved with the GP logo and featuring octagonal push-pieces that echo the bezel, incorporates an innovative fine adjustment system, enabling precise 4 mm micro-adjustments—particularly welcome during warmer weather.
The Beating Heart: A New Calibre
At the heart of the Laureato FIFTY beats the new Calibre GP4800, a significant achievement for the manufacture. This automatic movement composed of 163 parts and 19 jewels, measuring 25.60 mm in diameter and just 4.28 mm in height, beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and delivers a minimum 55-hour power reserve. The movement features a silicon escapement and a variable-inertia balance for enhanced performance and reliability. Meanwhile, no fewer than ten different finishing techniques reveal its beauty through the sapphire case back.
Significantly, the GP4800 represents a historic milestone for GP: it's the first "simple" hours-minutes-seconds-date movement whose construction draws inspiration from Girard-Perregaux's legendary Three Bridges architecture—extending this finest expression of mechanical watchmaking artistry beyond the tourbillon.
Summary & Price
The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY transcends the realm of commemorative watchmaking. It stands as a manifesto from a manufacture that has remained faithful to integrated production since 1791, proving that true luxury lies not in following trends, but in defining them with precision, balance, and enduring elegance.
Sticker Price USD 28,320. More info on Girard-Perregaux here.