This year, Vacheron Constantin is celebrating its 260th anniversary and has just released nine fascinating timepieces —seven of which are part of what is now called the Harmony collection and all fitted with cushion shaped cases— that include three monopusher chronographs that are out of this world.
Inspired by the Vacheron Constantin Chronograph ref. 3306 from 1928, these new creations are fitted with elegant cushion shaped cases and powered by the very sophisticated calibres 3300, 3200 and 3500 with Maltese cross on the column wheel. These creations vividly reflect the excellence of the Manufacture in terms of both horological expertise, with new watches bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, and of artistic crafts embodying the unique skills cultivated by the Maison. All three chronographs additionally feature a convenient power reserve indicator at 6 o'clock.
Commemorating its 10th anniversary this year, Greubel Forsey presented just a few novelties at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie SIHH 2015 in Geneva. One of those novelties that received a lot of attention —in addition to his project in collaboration with Philippe Dufour called 'Naissance d'une Montre'— at the SIHH 2015 was the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision. The rationale behind the creation of this new watch was to present their third invention in a case that is as slender as possible and yet able to accommodate the inclined tourbillon cage. It was the lateral projections of their asymmetrical models that gave them the idea for an original solution. By incorporating a dome —with flat top for ergonomics and wearing comfort— into the sapphire crystal on the back of the timepiece, they created enough extra volume to allow the tourbillon cage to overlap the reference surface of the rear bridges. The dome is a new and intriguing element that directs attention to the lower bridge of the tourbillon.
Here we are now presenting you the second and last novelty presented by Richard Mille this year at the SIHH 2015 in Geneva. The new Richard Mille RM 51-02 Tourbillon Diamond Twister is a high jewelry tourbillon that takes all of its cues from the swirling form of a spiral comprised of diamonds emanating outwards the tourbillon in 14 rays as a spiral vortex like that of the milky way, paying homage to the meaning of the word 'tourbillon' in English that stands for 'whirlwind'. Each spiral ray of the new Richard Mille RM 51-02 Tourbillon Diamond Twister is perfectly set with flawless diamonds and black sapphires around the case. Fitted with the classic tripartite tonneau-shaped Richard Mille case in 18K white gold measuring 47.95 mm L x 39.70 mm W x 12.60 mm T, the bezel side and the case back had to be perfectly assembled around the middle case to prevent any damage to the black sapphires. The dial made of 18K white gold, features 270 diamonds in its twister and hour/minutes hands with luminescent tips.
For watch lovers, one of the most fascinating aspects of the new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde just unveiled at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie SIHH 2015 is the unusual presentation of the flying tourbillon, consisting of 82 parts, as a “12” indicator that appears to come to life. Fitted with a robust 44.2 mm case in platinum, after the 31st day of the month, the retrograde date display automatically jumps back to the 1st; in shorter months, the hand can be directly advanced using a rapid-advance system until it reverts to the 1st. The 7-day power reserve display indicates how much energy remains in the IWC 51900 calibre. To mark the 75th anniversary of the Portugieser watch family, IWC has given a timepiece swathed in mystery an additional touch of luxury.
The digital perpetual calendar is one of IWC’s most outstanding technological advances. With the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month “75th Anniversary” edition ref. IW397201 just released at the SIHH 2015, the Portugieser watch family now includes a model featuring a digital display for the date and month. This exclusive timepiece packs a wealth of IWC watchmaking expertise into its 45 mm case. Equipped with a perpetual calendar, digital large date display, leap year display, chronograph with flyback function and the IWC in-house calibre 89801 calibre with its efficient double-pawl winding mechanism and quick-action switch. This calibre provides a power reserve of 68 hours when fully wound and is fitted with 51 jewels and solid gold oscillating weight.
One of the most sophisticated watches in the world was presented by IWC at the SIHH 2015 in Geneva. The new Portugieser Grande Complication ref. 3776 brings together many of watchmaking’s most significant achievements in a massive yet elegant 45 mm case either in 18K red gold ref. IW377602 or platinum ref. IW377601 of which 250 pieces are available respectively. This new complication brings with it the perpetual calendar, which is mechanically programmed until 2499 and requires just three adjustments in what would normally be leap years —2100, 2200 and 2300— but are not. Further complications include the perpetual moon phase display, chronograph and minute repeater. When activated by the repeating slide, the latter chimes out the precise time in harmonious tones. A total of 20 functions are made possible by the interplay of 659 individual mechanical parts. Despite its complex construction and numerous controls, the case is water-resistant to 3 bar. Several design modifications further enhance the value of the model in the new collection.
Among the seven new timepieces that were unveiled by Cartier at the SIHH 2015, one that we really liked is the new Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar ref. WHRO0002. There's something so special about annual calendars that we really fancy this new watch. The new Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar features a solid and nicely sized 40 mm 18K pink gold case with an in-house calibre. Fitted with a beaded 18K pink gold crown set with a blue sapphire cabochon, white galvanized guilloché dial, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, hammer-shaped hand with a red tip and brown alligator leather strap with double adjustable folding 18K pink gold buckle, the new Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar ranks high when it comes to our favorite watches at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie this year in Geneva. This beautiful complication with days indicated by a hammer-shaped hand and months by a disc with large date at 12 o'clock is one of the most refined and elegant watches we saw at the salon. Its dial with 'guilloché' center and Roman numerals stays true to the values and DNA of Cartier.
Last week at the SIHH 2015 along with the amazing presentation of the new A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in platinum we presented you here, our friends from Saxony unveiled new design accents for three Saxonia family classics. As part of the revamping of the Saxonia watch family, the watches have been fitted with a new dial design that further enhances their intrinsic gracefulness. The three revamped models are the Saxonia, Saxonia Automatic and the Saxonia Dual Time. “Never stand still” is not only Walter Lange’s personal motto but it also motivates the product developers at A. Lange & Söhne to continue improving their perfect creations. Their tireless pursuit of the perfect watch has inspired the discreet dial design refinements of these three Saxonia models. Particularly in a watch family innately characterised by such elegance and purity, each element, be it ever so small, has a visual impact on the overall appearance of the respective model.
This year IWC celebrates the 75th anniversary and with it, a whole new range of calibres and timepieces from the Portugieser collection were unveiled at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie SIHH 2015 in Geneva. In addition to the unveiling of 14 new timepieces, the Portugieser line went through a thorough facelift that IWC Schaffhausen refers to as the 'Evolutionary Aesthetic Enhancements'. These enhancements included adding new integrated strap horns to improve ergonomics, an arched-edge sapphire crystal and new handmade alligator leather straps done by Italian renowned shoemaker Santoni —straps come with an orange lining just like the shoes from this brand.
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar ref. 503401 features now, for the first time ever, a new dial design with railway-track-style chapter ring and aesthetically enhanced subdial arrangement to improve readability.
Last week at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie SIHH 2015 in Geneva, Panerai unveiled seven new timepieces that we have been showing here on our website. This time is the turn to present you our live pictures of the other two new Officine Panerai Luminor Submersible watches after we presented you the Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech here last week. The Officine Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanium PAM 614 and PAM 615 are two of our favorite releases from Panerai this year.
The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanium fitted with a very robust titanium Luminor 1950 case measuring 47mm in diameter incorporates features which have in common the military context of their origins and it appears as a contemporary watch with a strongly sporting character, with great personality and the purest Panerai identity.
Continuing with our extensive coverage of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie SIHH 2015, we bring you another novelty —with its live pictures— presented by IWC Schaffhausen this year. The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club is now also available in 18K red gold under ref. IW390501 and its case has been downsized from 45.4 mm to 43.5 mm. While this change in size seems barely noticeable in the numbers, it does make a big difference in the way the watch wears now. Powered by the in-house automatic calibre 89361, the new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club the chronograph demonstrates its sporting qualities with a flyback function and an additional flange with quarter-second calibration for short stop times. Stop times longer than a minute are shown like the time of day on a separate analogue subdial.
This year at the SIHH 2015 just like last year, some of the most expected novelties were those from A. Lange & Söhne. This year, the experts from Saxony surprised us with an amazing timepiece that unfortunately feel somewhat short when compared with the Terraluna launched last year and reviewed here. The new Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in platinum is an impressive minute repeater that taps into the best from A. Lange & Söhne in terms of research, development, technology and craftsmanship.
This is not your average minute repeater, this is a water resistant decimal minute repeater —hammers the minutes in fractions of 10 minutes instead of quarter hours as with traditional repeaters— with constant-force escapement and it is fitted with a push piece to activate the minute repeater mechanism opposed to having a lever. However, when it comes to acoustics and sound level, we think the timepiece falls short.
The pioneering spirit of the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret honors the legacy of one of history’s greatest explorers. For 157 years Villeret’s master watchmakers have traditional Swiss watchmaking with the same combination of innovation, precision and determination that guided Vasco da Gama on his historic expedition. Their voyage into the uncharted territories of the watchmaking world continues with the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama.
This new timepiece just released at the SIHH 2015 unites —for the first time ever— a cylindrical tourbillon and unique, functional worldtime indication. Strictly limited to 18 pieces, the Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama is a revolutionary timepiece that pushes the boundaries of fine watchmaking with utmost performance and spectacular artisanal beauty. The precisely beating heart of the Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M68.40 is a 1-minute tourbillon.
Among the 28 novelties that were presented by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the new Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique Set ref. 5083401 takes one of the center stages. This new watch features an elegant blend of jewellery and fine watchmaking with its diamond-set dial revealing a fascinating tourbillon. Its dial is in fact set with both diamonds and sapphires. Its movement is embellished with finely crafted decoration and a solid gold monobloc oscillating weight. The Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique Set is perhaps in the finest diamond set watches we have seen in the last decade. Tastefully done the watch features an 18K white gold case measuring 42 mm in diameter by 13.2 mm in thickness. Featuring a cylindrical tourbillon, the gem set dial on this watch is mesmerizing and captivating at the same time.
Pure lines and an aesthetically refined dial. A graceful ballet brings the dial to life with the moon-phase display. Sapphire crystal case back reveals the movement. Only 4.9 mm thick, this ultra-thin movement is proof that technique and sophistication, however extreme, can happily coexist inside a narrow space. Fitted with a beautiful slate chocolate sunburst dial that is a true chameleon depending on the lighting conditions around the watch, this new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon 39 Boutique Special Edition ref. 136255J just presented at the SIHH 2015 in Geneva, is a watch that delivers on the rich history of the brand and a perfect example of its classic DNA.
Simplicity, elegance and functionality are the attributes that characterize the new Master Ultra Thin Moon 29 Boutique Special Edition ref. 136255J.
On the lower left of the dial, the Richard Mille RM19-02 Tourbillon 'Fleur' incorporates a magnolia wrapped around a flying tourbillon with its five delicate petals. Equipped with a true automaton, the magnolia opens its petals every five minutes —or on demand thanks to a pusher located at 9 o'clock— in a delicate kinetic ballet.
This year at the SIHH 2015 in Geneva, for Richard Mille it was all about the ladies. Richard Mille presented two novelties geared towards ladies and one of them is the Richard Mille RM19-02 Tourbillon 'Fleur' —flower. It was amazing to be able to work on this hands-on review of such an important timepiece. The Tourbillon 'Fleur' is fitted with a robust case in 18K white gold measuring 45.4 L x 38.3 W x 12.55 T, and because of its dimensions this is a watch that could also be worn by a man. The Tourbillon 'Fleur' is available in two different cases. One with a case fully set with micropavé diamonds —as featured on this post— and the other in a red gold case with no diamonds at all.
Now, this new Richard Mille RM19-02 is not your average Richard Mille watch. Its dial, holds a precious surprise in lacquer. For the creation of this timepiece a special flower was chosen, the Magnolia. It was chosen as its existence marks millions of years on earth even before bees were around.
Enjoy the mesmerizing sound of perfection. Being in the presence of what we can now refer to as the "glassiest and louder minute repeater we've listened to" since pocket watches, was a once in a lifetime opportunity. Officially presented this week at the SIHH 2015, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Acoustic Research Episode 1 —Etude Acoustique No.1— is product of exceptional engineering but also years of research to create the most unique and superb minute repeater to date.
Being in the presence of what we can now refer to as the "glassier and louder minute repeater we've listened to" since pocket watches, was a once in a lifetime opportunity. Officially presented this week at the SIHH 2015, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Acoustic Research Episode 1 —Etude Acoustique— is product of exceptional engineering but also years of research to create the most unique and superb minute repeater to date. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Acoustic Research Episode 1 —Etude Acoustique— is without doubt, one of the most innovative concept watches created by a Swiss haute horlogerie watchmaking house. The result of an in-depth eight year sound research program with three patents pending, this new Royal Oak Concept watch, a unique prototype, is not for sale at the moment. However, we envision Audemars Piguet releasing 'for sale' pieces moving forward.
Originally launched in 2012, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver in stainless steel quickly became one of the 'hottest' watches of 2012 and for sure the point of entry into Audemars Piguet for many. This week at the SIHH 2015, Audemars Piguet refreshed this model by adding a beautiful silver-tone dial —looks quite white depending on the light— to it as well as a display case back under ref. 15710ST.OO.A002CA.02.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver was originally launched as ref. 15703, but because is now fitted with a display case back —as it is the case for other iterations of the watch including the Black Ceramic model, White ceramic, Forged Carbon, QE Limited Edition— the new reference number for this watch is 15710. Also, please be aware of the fact that the ref. 15703 in stainless steel with solid case back has been discontinued and replaced by the ref. 15710ST.OO.A002CA.01 with black dial and display case back.
