While Sotheby's Important Watches Sale in Geneva taking place tomorrow May 14, 2014 won't be as big as the Christie's sale, it for sure will have some wow factor coming from 23 lots that we will be following very closely. This upcoming sale taking place tomorrow in Geneva, includes 342 lots divided in two sessions:
News: Christie's Important Watches Sale in Geneva Totals $27.2 Million USD. Here are Some of the Highlights.
Yesterday, May 12th, 2014, Christie's Important Watches Sale in Geneva brought in a total of $27,230,528 USD Inclusive of Buyer's Premiums. Once again and surpassing all expectations, this sale surpassed last year's Christie's Rolex Daytona "Lesson One" Auction —a prestigious single-themed evening auction featuring 50 exceptional examples of the world's most celebrated chronograph wristwatch, that totaled $13,248,167 USD while selling 100% by lot and by value.
News: An Extremely Rare Rolex ref. 5029/5028 with Cloissoné Dial Sells for More Than $1.2 Million USD at Christie's Auction in Geneva.
Today May 12, 2014 in Geneva, Christie's is presenting one of its most exceptional sales ever with 440 watches including a wide array of exceptional, rare and sought-after timepieces. Last night we brought you the information about 50 lots to be followed very closely here. The first part of the auction has just ended a few minutes ago and we are happy to inform you that lot 207, an extremely rare and unique 18K gold Rolex automatic wristwatch ref. 5029/5028 from 1949 featuring star numerals and cloisonné enamel dial sold for $1,249,915 USD, slightly above its estimate between $569,697 - $1,139,394 USD.
News: Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7924 and Tudor Oysterdate Monte Carlo ref. 7149/0 Sell for $35,606 and $22,788 USD Respectively at Christie's Auction in Geneva.
A few minutes ago in Geneva, during Christie's Important Watches Auction, two highly collectible stainless steel Tudor references —Lot 247 and 248— sold way above their estimates. The first one, a Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, ref. 7924, circa 1958 fitted with the automatic calibre 390 and red pointer bezel insert sold for $35,606 USD.
News: Today is Christie's Important Watches Auction in Geneva. 440 Lots Including Some of the Most Sought-after Watches from Patek, Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Panerai Amongst Others.
Today May 12, 2014 in Geneva, Christie's will be presenting one of its most exceptional sales ever with 440 watches including a wide array of exceptional, rare and sought-after timepieces, certain to attract a large international audience. Collector’s pieces signed by the world’s most famous watchmakers, including some with Royal provenance such as His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said of Oman
Experience: WatchCollectingLifestyle Hosts Luncheon for Chicago Members of The Rolex Forums.
If watch forums like The Rolex Forums, Timezone, ThePurists or Watchuseek had never existed, it is very likely that the boom of digital watch publications —like ours— would've never taken place and we probably would've not been around at all. Little to no credit is given to some of these most visited watch forums in the world regarding the significant amount of consumer generated content that is hosted by them nor the amazing knowledge and expertise that some of their members possess.
News: IWC Presents Two New Ingenieur Watches. The Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance Ceramic and The Ingenieur Dual Time in Stainless Steel with Two Dial Variants.
IWC Schaffhausen unveils two magnificent new additions to the Ingenieur watch family. In its role as Official Engineering Partner of the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team, the Swiss watch manufacturer has been inspired to create new works of haute horlogerie. Limited to an edition of just 1,000, the Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance Ceramic, for example, features materials typically found in motor racing.
News: Presenting the New Officine Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT 24H PAM 531. First Panerai In-House Movement with a Complication.
Finally, after several years of seeing Panerai watches labeled as GMTS but fitted with what in reality is a 12H second timezone independent hand, Officine Panerai presents this new watch truly designed for world travelers featuring a real 24H GMT function. This new watch, Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT 24H PAM 531 allows the wearer to simultaneously read the time in a second time zone by means of an independent central hand which makes one revolution of the dial in 24 hours.
Insider: Zenith Captain Power Reserve. Classical Elegance, Rich Heritage and a Very Nice Price Tag.
The new Zenith Captain Power Reserve ref. 03.2122.685/01.C498 in stainless steel is a watch that comes with exceptional understated elegance, rich heritage and a very nice price tag. This elegant timepiece presented at Baselworld 2014, features a classic round highly-polished —with satin-brushed lugs— stainless steel case measuring 40 mm in diameter and 9.25 mm in thickness. The Zenith Captain Power Reserve features a black alligator strap and is available with a silver or black dial. Its shape and finish are as traditional and classic as it gets, making this watch one of our favorite watches under $7K USD.
This classic and elegant new watch, features a simple, yet well balanced dial that Zenith refers to as a silver velvet-finished dial —typically known as a sunburst dial— with rhodium faceted applied markers, a power reserve indicator between 1 and 3 o'clock, subsidiary seconds at 9, a date aperture at 6 o'clock and dauphine hands. To make this watch even more appealing, Zenith added a slightly domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides that allows for excellent readability and unparalleled protection from unwanted glare or reflections that allow the wearer to fully enjoy the beauty of the dial. The seconds hand as well as the power reserve hand are blued to provide optimal contrast against the silver background. Perhaps the biggest downside with this watch as with most elegant and classical timepieces, is the lack of luminescent material on the markers or hands.
The new Zenith Captain Power Reserve is powered by the automatic Zenith calibre Elite 685 with a relatively small diameter —for such as large case size— measuring only 11.5 lignes —25.60 mm. This reliable and accurate calibre is composed of 179 parts, 38 jewels, skeletonized rotor featuring the iconic Zenith star and Côtes de Genève. When fully wound, this solid calibre provides a nice and long lasting power reserve of 50 hours. The calibre is fully visible through the case back and a nice treat for the eyes.
Fitted with a nice but somewhat stiff black alligator strap that for sure will require a long break-in period, the watch wears slightly bigger than its actual size because of the very thin bezel on its case design. The strap is fitted with a pin buckle but Zenith offers an optional triple folding clasp. If you are on a budget and you like elegant watches with strong pedigree and great craftsmanship, the Zenith Captain Power Reserve is a great option and a watch that delivers flawlessly on the price-value equation. For those willing to pay a little bit more, the watch is also available in 18K rose gold or 18K white gold.
Sticker Price $6,500 USD Stainless Steel, Gold References $14,100 USD. For more info on Zenith click here.
News: Presenting the New Richard Mille RM011 Flyback Chronograph 'White Demon'. A 30-Piece Limited Edition.
Richard Mille introduces the RM011 Flyback Chronograph 'White Demon' as a 30-piece limited edition exclusively available at the Richard Mille boutiques in Las Vegas, Beverly Hills and authorized dealers in North and South America. Devilish red details add a fiery glow to a new limited edition white ceramic timepiece from Richard Mille. The RM011 White Demon, a 30-piece limited edition, combines precious metal, high tech materials and an aggressive devilish styling effect.
Fitted with the usual Richard Mille tripartite case measuring 50.00 mm x 40.00 mm x 16.15 mm, the front and back are made of a white ATZ sand-blasted ceramic in the new RM011 White Demon. The white bezels and matching rubber strap contrast with a 5N red gold caseband, crown and chronograph pushers set in NTPT carbon, as well as a dial that features scarlet numerals, hands, date aperture and inner flange.
Some of the RM011’s main features, which include major technical innovations, are its skeletonized automatic winding movement with adjustable rotor geometry; the usual skeletonized dial in black and red features a 60-minute countdown timer at 3, a 12-hour chrono-register at 6, running seconds at 9 o'clock, a month aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock and an oversize date display at 12 o’clock.
This beautiful limited edition of 30 pieces in white ATZ ceramic and red gold is fitted with a white rubber strap with 5N red gold and titanium clasp.
Sticker Price $170,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.
Experience: Eight of the Most Beautiful Movements Presented at SIHH and Baselworld 2014. Haute Horlogerie at its Finest.
So far, it has been a very exciting year with the amazing timepieces that have been unveiled at the SIHH in Geneva and Baselworld 2014. During these first four months of the year 2014, we have seen some exceptional timepieces that took our breath away because of their complexity, unique designs and functions; however, there are eight timepieces that we would like to showcase in this post, as we think that they have some of the most beautiful movements that are perfect examples of haute horlogerie at its finest.
News: Aldo Magada From Breitling Appointed President & CEO of Zenith. Only Time Will Tell What His Impact Will Be.
On May 2, 2014, LVMH announced the appointment of Aldo Magada as President and CEO of Zenith. Aldo will take over his new responsibilities on July 1st, 2014 replacing Jean-Frédéric Dufour who recently left Zenith to become the new CEO of Rolex S.A.
Jean-Claude Biver, President of the Watches Division of LVMH, is firmly convinced that Aldo’s significant experience in the watch-making industry, combined with his proven-track record in product development and strategy as well as his in-depth knowledge of manufactures will be instrumental to develop Zenith.
Aldo Magada is a Swiss citizen born in 1958. He grew up in Switzerland and graduated from the University of Lausanne in 1981 and from the University of La Jolla in San Diego, California in 1982. Aldo Magada started his career in sales at Vifor, a para-pharmaceutical company. In 1984, Aldo joined the watches industry at Swatch and then held positions with increasing responsibilities for Piaget and Omega where he was Product Director and Marketing Director alongside Jean-Claude Biver between 1994 and 1998.
In 2000, he became President of Gucci Time Pieces. Between 2002 and 2009, he led Technomarine, Reuge and Badollet, before founding a consulting firm, earning recognition and trust of numerous key players in the watches industry. Since 2010, he has been International Sales & Business Development Director at Breitling. During his nearly 30 years of experience mainly in the watchmaking industry, Aldo Magada has demonstrated his instrumental role in brand development and repositioning. As Jean-Claude Biver highlights, Aldo will ensure a continuous success for Zenith over the coming years.
Frankly, only time will tell what Aldo Magada's impact will be at Zenith as Jean-Frédéric Dufour leaves the brand at a very different place from when he took over in June of 2009. The Zenith brand image has been effectively repositioned and properly revived.
For more info on Zenith click here.
Experience: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Quantieme Perpetuel Automatique Openworked. Beacuse This Manufacture is Way More than Only the Royal Oak.
Audemars Piguet is the only Swiss manufacture that is still in the hands of the descendants of their original founders. While Audemars Piguet is very well known for the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore timepieces, the true essence of the manufacture comes to life with their exceptional more classic timepieces from the Jules Audemars, the Millenary, the Tradition and the Classique collections. Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet founded the company in 1875 that is still located in Le Brassus, right in the heart of the Vallée de Joux. Among their amazing creations, inventions and horological firsts comes the Jules Audemars Quantieme Perpetuel Automatique, the first automatic ultra-thin perpetual calendar wristwatch with central rotor ever created in 1978.
One thing we love about Audemars Piguet is how they draw upon its unique blend of tradition, experience and knowledge to push the boundaries of fine watchmaking to the maximum level through their Savoir-Faire creations. Openworking is one of those things that Audemars Piguet masters very well and several steps are involved in hand finishing every skeletonized mainplate, including the flanking, beveling, perlage and polishing. The purpose of openworking is to enhance transparency and aesthetic appeal by revealing the beauty of the movement without compromising its accuracy.
This fascinating Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Quantieme Perpetuel Automatique Openworked fitted with a yellow gold case measuring 36 mm in diameter and only 7 mm in thickness, is a living example of how to break the rules you must first master them. This perpetual calendar with moon phases is powered by the legendary Audemars Piguet calibre 2120/1 with 36 jewels, straight-line lever escapement and hand engraved skeletonized rotor in 21K gold. This complication is a real treat for the eyes and a joy to wear.
Now, enjoy the rest of these images we have prepared for you while you relax comfortably in your Eames Lounge chair while sipping your warm Nespresso.
Estimated Sticker Price $17,000-$20,000 depending on condition. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
Insider: Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 40th Anniversary Moon Landing Limited Edition in Platinum. Apollo 11 Overload in 314 Grams and Only 69 Pieces Ever Made.
As you guys know, watch collecting is not only about buying the most recent watch novelties released at the SIHH or Baselworld, but also about hunting down that watch that you've always dreamed of owning —new or vintage— or finding that special watch from a very exclusive limited edition, that is still waiting for you at a boutique or authorized dealer. Well, for those of you in love with the iconic Speedmaster Professional, here we have a very special piece that we ran into at the Omega Boutique in Chicago.
We are talking about the Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 40th Anniversary Moon Landing Limited Edition in Platinum ref. 311.90.42.30.01.001. This coveted limited edition was only released in two models, one in stainless steel with sterling silver medallion —7,969 pieces— and in platinum with 18K gold medallion—69 pieces.
This amazing watch fitted with a solid and ultra heavy 42 mm platinum case weighing an impressive 314 grams —11 ounces or 0.7 of a pound— is part of a very exclusive limited edition of only 69 pieces released by Omega back in 2009 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the moon landing on July 21, 1969. This exclusive timepiece that comes in a shockingly beautiful wooden presentation box with ornamental marquetry with the Apollo 11 Mission insignia —this box could be easily retrofitted by the owner to become a very elegant humidor and not a bad idea at all—, also includes a solid 18K yellow gold coin —measuring approximately 1.65" in diameter— with the Apollo 11 Mission insignia on bas-relief on one side and the inscription of the legend "The Eagle Has Landed" along with the launched, landed and returned dates of the mission on its reverse side.
This exceptional watch that celebrates humanity's biggest milestone after conquering space and setting foot on the surface of the moon is fitted with a gorgeous black matte dial with a solid 18K yellow gold medallion applique with the Apollo 11 Mission insignia at 9 —with the serial number engraved at the bottom and with the running seconds hand in gold—, 12-hour chrono-register at 6, a 30-minute chrono-register at 3 o'clock and platinum hands with the exception of the running seconds hand which is made of 18K yellow gold.
To make the dial even more special, Omega chose to add two red contrasting features to it. The first one, a red tip on the chronograph seconds hand and the second one, a red writing with the exact time —02:56 GMT— at which Neil Armstrong put foot on the surface of the moon and spent about two and a half hours outside the spacecraft while collecting lunar material to be brought back to earth. In his own words: "one small step for a man, one giant leap for mankind." The 40th Anniversary Limited Edition’s dial is protected by Hesalite, the same robust, shatter-proof acrylic crystal found on the original Moon Watch. Hesalite is ideally suited for use in space as there is no chance that it can break apart and send potentially dangerous fragments into the zero gravity environment. A small, distinctive Omega logo has been etched evocatively inside the Hesalite crystal.
The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 40th Anniversary Moon Landing Limited Edition in Platinum is fitted with the traditional Speedmaster bracelet with deployant clasp. Because of the precious metal utilized on this limited edition, the bracelet is extremely heavy but still very comfortable. A nice reminder of the value of the watch and the exclusiveness of this limited edition piece.
This exceptional timepiece is powered by the manual-wound Omega calibre 1861 that shares its lineage with the calibre 321 used in the original Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. The robust chronograph calibre is protected by a solid case back beautifully finished with the Apollo 11 Mission insignia in 18K yellow gold with the words “Apollo 11 40th Anniversary”. Around the platinum outer ring of the case back the following engraving appears: “The first Watch Worn on the Moon”, “PT950” —a reference to the watch’s platinum case and bracelet— and “July 21, 1969”, the date that Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface.
On the wrist, the watch wears true to its size and extremely top heavy due to its platinum construction. Elegant but sporty at the same time, understated and classic and extremely iconic are the words that come to mind when sporting the piece. This watch is a perfect watch for those seeking to post the most unique Speedmasters on '#SpeedyTuesday' on their Instagram accounts. For the money, you definitely get a very exclusive watch that is definitely worth its 314 grams in platinum. From an horological and watch value standpoint, you get to decide whether you think is worth it or not.
Sticker Price $135,000 USD. For more info on Omega click here.
Insider: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms X-Fathoms. The King of All Diving Watches.
Blancpain was founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain setting up his first workshop on the upper floor of his house at Villeret, in the present-day Bernese Jura. At that time, little did he know, that today his brand would become the world's oldest watch brand. In 1926, the Manufacture entered into a partnership with John Harwood and started marketing the first automatic wristwatch. The year 1932 saw the end of the family's management of the firm, which had lasted for over two centuries. On the death of Frédéric-Emile Blancpain, his only daughter, Berthe-Nellie, did not wish to go into watchmaking. The following year, the two members of the staff who had been closest to Frédéric-Emile, Betty Fiechter and André Léal, bought the business. As there was no longer any member of the Blancpain family in control of the firm, the two associates were obliged by law as it stood at the time to change the company name. Henceforth, the firm would be called "Rayville S.A., succ. de Blancpain", "Rayville" being a phonetic anagram of Villeret. Today, the Swatch Group owns the brand and has successfully perpetuated its watchmaking principles and horological innovation. Although Blancpain offers a wide variety of watches across several collections, they are better known for their iconic diving watch, the Fifty Fathoms. Below you will see the first model of the 'Fifty Fathoms' ever created.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is one of the earliest automatic diving watches launched in 1953 and conceived by Jean-Jacques Fiechter —Blancpain's CEO from 1950 thru 1980— along with two heroes of the Free French Forces, Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud. Jean-Jacques Fiechter an avid diver felt the need to launch a watch that would bring two of his biggest passions together, the sea and watchmaking. Approached by the French military, he made his dream come true launching the first automatic diving watch with a generous 42 mm stainless steel case, a case size never heard of during that era. The watch specifically designed for the French 'Ecole des naugers de combat' —Combat Diving School— was named 'Fifty Fathoms' after the British measurement of 50 Fathoms —approximately 91.45 meters—, which was at the time the greatest depth that a diver would be able to descent to by using an oxygen mixture in their diving tanks. Several iterations of the Fifty Fathoms were created between 1953 and 1965 including watches fitted with smaller cases measuring 41 mm or 35 mm, and a wide variety of different dials for the French Military and the U.S. Navy. Other navies that followed the French and the U.S. navy in choosing the 'Fifty Fathoms' as their diving watch were the Israeli, the Spaniard and the German.
Some of the key characteristics of the first Fifty Fathoms watches included an anti-magnetic and highly water resistant case, a screw-on case back, a double "O-ring" system crown, an automatic movement, a unidirectional rotating bezel and one very interesting element added on the dial of the LIP models right above the 6 o'clock marker, a humidity indicator in the form of a small blue circle that would turn pink if humidity had entered the case.
But Blancpain didn't have it easy when it came to selling watches to the U.S. Navy as there was a 'Buy American Act' in place where American producers would be given a 25% price advantage over foreign competitors and the jewels in the watches had to be sourced from a supplier in Missouri. Fortunately for Blancpain, a gentleman named Allen Tornek who became a close friend to Jean-Jacques Fiecther —CEO of Blancpain at the time— helped the company go around the system and sold the watches to the U.S. Navy as "Blancpain Tornek" or "Rayville Tornek". About 1,000 Tornek-Rayville Fifty Fathoms were produced and most were destroyed by the Navy at the end of the commission, so the surviving examples are very collectible today and it is estimated that around twenty to thirty of these watches are still around. Images of the Tornek-Rayvill from Christie's.com.
Another interesting fact just like the one about Tornek, is that the French Navy chose to purchase the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watches not directly from Blancpain but through a specialized diving equipment company named Spirotechnique. At that time, Spirotechnique had a very strong relationship with oceanographer Jacques-Yves Cousteau, for whom they would sell some of his inventions and thanks to this connection, Cousteau learned about the Fifty Fathoms watch and selected to use it in the historic dives part of the film "Silent World". Worn by Jacques-Yves Cousteau, the Fifty Fathoms became the standard reference among diving watches during that time. Since we have already discussed the rest of the history of the Fifty Fathoms in our in-depth review of the 'Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Radiations' Limited Edition here, let's move on and go into our in-depth review of the X-Fathoms that we like to call 'The king of all diving watches'.
The Blancpain X-Fathoms ref. 5018-1230-64A released last year at the largest aquarium in the world located in Dubai during an amazing unveiling event, features a titanium satin-brushed case measuring close to 56 mm —55.65 mm— in diameter, a thickness of 24 mm and is fitted with a black rubber strap with pin buckle. This watch not only looks and feels like a diving watch, but is perhaps one of the most complex mechanical diving watches ever created.
The X-Fathoms features a black matte dial that seems a little busy but where each element on it has a clear purpose and functionality. In order to maintain the Fifty Fathoms look and its iconic design, the watch is fitted with the now traditional unidirectional sapphire crystal rotating bezel with luminescent material and the unmistakeable Fifty Fathoms Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock on its dial. The bezel is very thick and its serrated edges facilitate a good grip even with gloves.
The matte black dial features a mechanical depth indication with two different scales, where the one located on the outer part is blue and goes all the way to 15 meters with an exceptional +/- 30 cm precision and the one on the center of the dial is yellow and goes all the way to 90 meters with a maximum depth memory. The reading of the depth scales is indicated by two hands with arrow tips in blue and yellow respectively. Regardless of having depth scales that go only up to 90 meters, the Blancpain X-Fathoms is waterproof rated to a depth of 300 meters or 1000 ft. Additionally, the dial features a retrograde 5-minute counter for decompression stops at 10 o'clock.
This complex mechanical diving watch features a decompression valve at 10 o'clock for saturation diving as well as other features not present in more conventional mechanical diving watches such as an amorphous metal membrane on the case near the winding crown and a maximum depth memory with secured reset pusher on the case band at 8 o'clock. Research and testing conducted by Blancpain show that the elastic properties and the resistance to permanent deformation of amorphous metal make this material ideal for the depth gauge membrane.
The winding crown featuring the Blancpain logo is very robust and easy to grip even for those divers wearing gloves. The case back is solid and it features a skeletonized 'No Radiations' logo lined with the same amorphous metal membrane that is on the case band by the crown. The beating heart inside the X-Fathoms is the revolutionary Blancpain automatic calibre 9918B —based off of the calibre 1315— with a diameter of 36 mm, composed of 411 parts, 48 jewels, 3 barrels, silicon balance-spring and which provides the traditional 5-day power reserve —just as all other Fifty Fathoms calibres— when fully wound.
The X-Fathoms is also fitted with a very revolutionary rubber strap —with pin buckle— comprised of 14 articulated parts to ensure a perfect fit on the wrist and allow water to seep in under the watch in order to come in contact with the membrane under all circumstances. The rubber on the strap is very supple and the craftsmanship of the strap is just exceptional. The traditional Blancpain engraving typically found on the left side of the case band is present on the 6 o'clock side right in between the lugs.
On the wrist, be prepared to wear a real diving watch and a timepiece that not everyone can wear due to its massive construction and oversized case. Regardless, at the end of the day it is very probable that you will be wearing this watch over your wet suit, were it will look just perfect and in its element. Honestly, this is one of the coolest watches out there and if you are into diving watches, it really doesn't get any better. Just imagine yourself getting ready for that night dive in the Maldives and strapping this amazing timepiece on your wrist.
Sticker Price $40,700 USD. For more info on Blancpain click here.
Insider: Vulcain Aviator Instrument Chronograph Sport Automatic. A Great Pilot's Watch for the Price.
The story of Vulcain began in 1858, in the early days of the Swiss watch industry. This brand from Le Locle has been making its mark for over 150 years and it was in 1947 that it entered the annals of horology thanks to its Cricket calibre, the first ever truly functional mechanical alarm watch movement, from that point on, successive American presidents starting with Harry S. Truman were to adopt it and thereby earn the Cricket watch its enduring nickname as 'The Presidents’ Watch'. A century and a half of watchmaking passion, as well as 150 years of creation, innovation and expertise patiently acquired and now devoted to defending the demanding values of Haute Horlogerie. Founded in 1858, the workshop of the Ditisheim brothers – which was to give rise to the Vulcain brand – immediately earned itself an enviable reputation through its complication watches, which received awards at several World Fairs. But the technical qualities of Vulcain watches also appealed to explorers and adventurers. From the 1950s onwards, the brand in Le Locle was to partner famous mountaineering and maritime expeditions.
The Vulcain Aviator Instrument Chronograph ref. 590163A17.BFC006 presented last month at Baselworld 2014, features a stainless steel case measuring 44.60 mm in diameter and 15.40 mm in thickness. The case is very robust, very well crafted and it features a domed sapphire crystal that gives the watch somewhat of a vintage inspired look. This new watch features a 12-hour chronograph and is available in six dial color variations including the dark grey featured on this review, blue, off-white, silvered, black and chocolate brown. The watch is fitted with a dark grey leather strap with red contrast stitching and with a stainless steel folding clasp. The texture of the strap is almost like that of nubuck, quite thick and not very supple.
The beautiful sunburst dark grey dial on this watch features a very interesting running seconds aperture at 9 o'clock. This horizontal double aperture shows a white disc with red bars that rotates creating an interesting visual effect and letting the wearer know that the watch is indeed running. The dial also features white Arabic numerals, a flange with minutes in 10-minute increments, a 30-minute chrono register at 3 and a 12-hour chrono register with built-in date aperture at 6 o'clock. In order to provide good readability of the chronograph, all of its hands are red, while the hour/minute hands of the watch are silver satin-finished with white luminescent material and shaped just as those in classic vintage pilot watches. Overall the design works well, without being extremely busy and the watch has a great aviator look.
One peculiarity of this new timepiece, is that the chrono pusher at 2 o'clock may come with the top all rhodium plated, blue, black or red, depending on your dial choice. The blue finish is reserved for the off-white dial, while the red one is only available on the model featured here. The pusher at 2 o'clock is very smooth when pressed to activate the chronograph and the reset pusher at 4 o'clock is rectangular shaped and fluted on its end to ensure a good grip.
The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic Vulcain calibre V-59 composed of 247 parts, 27 jewels, a skeletonized rotor and nickel coated. The calibre is fully visible via the display case back and it provides a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. For a brand like Vulcain, we would've expected a nicer looking movement.
On the wrist, the watch wears more like a 46 mm watch with nice aviation like wrist presence. The red contrast stitching on the strap plays very nicely with the other red elements in this watch, making it look extremely sporty. For the price, you get a very unique looking timepiece with a nice and functional 12-hour chronograph and with a great name behind it.
Sticker Price $4,350 USD. For more info on Vulcain click here.
Experience: Hoyo de Monterrey Epicure No. 2. Classic, Elegant and Understated Like an Audemars Piguet.
What better way to relax and enjoy the good life than smoking a good Habano just 90 miles away from Cuba. As we are getting ready to finally welcome the warm weather here in Chicago, we had no other option than to travel to warm weather destinations while it's still cold here in the Windy City. While Key West, Florida is not necessarily the most upscale beach destination in the U.S., it is for sure a very interesting and nostalgic place for Cuban Americans or anyone of Cuban descent. While we were down in Key West, we decided to smoke one of the Cuba's finest and understated cigars, Hoyo de Monterrey Epicure No. 2.
A couple of weeks ago, as we found ourselves walking around the picturesque streets of Key West, and specifically along the popular Duval Street, we stumbled upon one of the most beautiful and most important landmarks in Florida, especially for those of Cuban origin. We are talking about The San Carlos Institute, founded in 1871 by Cuban exiles of Key West as an educational, civic, and patriotic center.
Today, The San Carlos is a multipurpose facility that serves as a museum, library, art gallery, theater, and school. Located in the heart of Key West's historic district, the San Carlos is considered to be the cradle of Cuba's independence movement. It was at the San Carlos that Cuban poet and patriot José Martí united the exile community in 1892 to launch the final phase of his campaign for Cuba's independence from Spain. José Martí loved the San Carlos building so much that he called it "La Casa Cuba". Frankly, there's no better place to light up an Epicure No.2 and then walk around the streets of Key West in search for the perfect spot to enjoy the sunset.
Hoyo de Monterrey is an Habano produced in the town of San Luis y Martinez, in the heart of the Vuelta Abajo tobacco region. The Hoyo de Monterrey plantation can be reached through a gate in the town’s main square with the following inscription: "Hoyo de Monterrey. José Gener. 1860". The Spanish word ''Hoyo' —which means 'hole’— in the name of this cigar, refers to the the low lands where the plantation is located by the banks of the San Juan y Martinez river.
Hoyo de Monterrey Epicure No. 2 is an Epicure type of cigar —a short and thick cigar— measuring 4 7/8" in length with a 50 ring gauge. With hints of coffee, chocolate and leather, this cigar is very smooth and even burning with a nice dark ash that holds nice and long. The only downside to this cigar, is the fact that it is so short that one needs to remove its beautiful ring in order to be able to enjoy the cigar till the end.
As we were getting ready to enjoy one of the most beautiful moments of the day at Mallory Square, we decided to accompany our cigar with one of Cuba's most traditional drinks, a refreshing 'Mojito'. The mint in our 'Mojito' was perfectly mashed and the drink perfectly mixed that we can say that this 'Mojito' was at the level of those served at 'La Bodeguita del Medio' in Cuba. Next time you are enjoying the sunset celebration at Mallory Square, you need to make sure you stop by The Westin Key West Resort & Marina to enjoy a few of these Cuban 'Mojitos'
This cigar is always a very attractive choice for those watchlifestylers seeking a delicate yet aromatic Habano that is not too strong but still has a lot of character, elegance and complexity. The flavor profile doesn't change much throughout the first two thirds of the cigar, but it becomes increasingly stronger on the last third. A very common characteristic of fine Cuban Habanos. It provides around 35 minutes of burning time in a perfectly rolled cigar with the best even burn you'll experience.
The Hoyo de Monterrey is so nicely rolled that even the most inexperienced smokers can keep it well lit and burning strong with every puff. For sure a cigar that is as classic and understated as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Safari on our wrist.
Now, pretend you came along and enjoy the sunset with us as we finish our cigar and sip down our 'Mojito'.
For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
Insider: Armin Strom Racing Manual. A Must Have if You are a Team Marussia Fan.
As you all know, Armin Strom has been heavily involved with Formula One racing for the last three years and this year they announced the continuation of their partnership for the fourth consecutive year as the official timing partner for the Anglo-Russian Formula 1 Team Marussia. The new Armin Strom Racing Manual ref. ST14-MR.90 that we were able to review at Baselworld 2014 last month, is just another perfect example of Armin Strom's superb craftsmanship and design.
The new Armin Strom Racing Manual features a titanium and black PVD stainless steel case measuring 43.4 mm in diameter with a thickness of 13 mm. The watch is definitely very racing looking, especially because of its solid construction and also because the dial ring appliques and movement bridges were founded directly from a monobloc of one of team Marussia's engines. It really doesn't get more racing inspired than this.
As you can appreciate in these pictures, the skeletonized dial is a complete work of art with its multilayer look. The dial features a black chapter ring with white Arabic numerals for the minutes, while the 12, 3 and 6 for the hours are applied numerals. As mentioned earlier the dial features appliques coming straight from team Marussia's engines. The dial also features a subsidiary seconds at 9 o'clock and the beautiful applique that resembles a pedal between 4 and 5 o'clock. Additionally, the colorful rubies on the movement provide a nice contrasting touch to the manly black and gray theme of the timepiece.
Just as with any other Armin Strom timepiece, the bezel features the prominent lip at 6 o'clock. If you are wondering why this unique feature is part of the design, the answer is very simple. Armin Strom watches can be personalized by adding an engraved monogram to that tiny protruding lip.
The Armin Strom Racing Manual is powered by the manual-wound Armin Strom in-house calibre AMW11-MR. This sophisticated calibre is composed of only 112 parts, fitted with 20 jewels, one single barrel, bridges made from metal coming from a Marussia Formula 1 monobloc engine and it provides an outstanding 5-day power reserve when fully wound. The calibre is fully visible via the display case back with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.
To make this watch even sportier, Armin Strom fitted it with a very supple black rubber strap with pin buckle in black PVD stainless steel and with a second interchangeable black alligator leather strap. A double-folding clasp is also available upon request for those watchlifestylers seeking a more elegant look on the strap. The interior side of the black rubber strap —that happens to be very comfortable— features a repetition pattern with the Armin Strom logo. Kudos to Armin Strom for supplying the Racing Manual with a rubber strap that is ideal for the warmer months or for those seeking to enjoy their watch while engaging in water activities —for your peace of mind this watch is waterproof to a depth of 50 meters.
On the wrist, the watch wears slightly bigger than its actual size —more like a 45 mm watch— and quite comfortably just as all other Armin Strom watches we have tried on or reviewed. If you are ready to make an impression next time you are attending the Formula One U.S. Grand Prix in Austin, Texas and you want to have a watch that will look as good on the track as it would on the paddock, look no further. If you are a fan of Team Marussia this watch is a must have. This new Armin Strom Racing Manual is available in a limited edition of only 50 pieces.
Sticker Price $13,800 USD. For more info on Armin Strom click here.
News: URWERK UR-105M Iron Knight and Dark Knight. Two Different Models Each in a 77-Piece Limited Edition.
Today, URWERK released the new UR-105M, a timepiece that in their own words is inspired by the Middle Ages. An era when knights in shining armor would risk their lives for honor and glory, with only their faith and shield for protection. The UR-105M embodies their gallant valor in a titanium and steel arena, the satellite hours conquering time in an eternal jousting tournament. The new UR-105M is available in two different 77-piece limited editions with a case measuring 39.50mm x 53mm x 16.65mm. The UR-105M 'Iron Knight' is fitted with a sand-blasted titanium case with a stainless steel bezel with circular and vertical graining. Meanwhile, the UR-105M 'Dark Knight' comes with a titanium case and a bead-blasted AlTiN-treated steel bezel.
All of URWERK's iconic codes are present in the UR-105M. Satellite hours gliding slowly along the minute scale, darkened over-sized crown at 12 o’clock and a subtle technical feel. The UR-105M features an impressive titanium body reinforced by steel armor. At the heart of its time display four forged-aluminum satellites slowly orbit. Each of these satellites is visible during their 60-minute journey along the minute scale. A circular PEEK —PolyEtherEthercetone— canopy with openings enhances the current hour.
Once the hour has elapsed, the satellite —guided by a Geneva cross— rotates and continues around its orbit for another three hours before returning to the center stage. Completing the indications, running seconds and power reserve are displayed laterally on the case band. A honeycomb seconds disk on the right side —underneath the minute dial— indicates the passing of 10 seconds. This indicator is synchronized to another seconds indication on the right side of the caseband.
At the back of the UR-105M, URWERK’s signature ‘Control Board’ houses additional displays and functions: an ‘Oil Change’ indicator alerting when it is time for a service; 42-hour power reserve indicator; plus the fine-tuning screw allowing adjustment of the rate. The beating heart inside this new timepiece is the manual-wound URWERK calibre 5.01 with 38 jewels. The movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and the watch is waterproof to a depth of 30 meters.
Martin Frei, URWERK’s co-founder and artistic director, explains: “The case of UR-105M was developed as an armor. The visible screws on the bezel not only bring a distinctive esthetic to the watch, but also tack the steel armor onto its titanium body. This shield protects the movement —the heart of the watch— from the outside world’s aggressions. For me, the parallel with the chivalrous imagery is obvious. You have the power of the bezel-armor generating a feeling of invincibility.”
“With UR-105M, we’re not trying to show off, but rather ignite a calmer and mellower dimension,” adds Felix Baumgartner, URWERK’s co-founder and master watchmaker. “We offer an intuitive time display, with playfully ergonomic time setting. Technical challenge is at the heart of all our creations, and the performance here is subtle. First of all, the aluminum and PEEK structure has to rotate with absolute chronometric precision. We needed the lightest materials to achieve a high level of precision and PEEK was ideal: The PEEK polymer is used in surgery because its excellent mechanical properties and chemical resistance. The other challenge accomplished by UR-105M is of another type entirely: A honeycomb seconds disk on the right side of the case underneath the minute dial indicates the passing of each 10 seconds. This indicator is synchronized to another seconds indicator situated on the side of the case.”
The watch is fitted with a black alligator strap with pin buckle and we can only imagine the amazing wrist presence that it comes with. Sticker Price CHF 58,000 for the 'Iron Knight' and CHF 63,000 for the 'Dark Knight'. For more info on URWERK click here.
Insider: Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk Blue and Orange. A True Diver's Watch with Bright Colors That Make it Pop.
The new Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk Blue ref. 49960-19-431-FK4A takes a bold stance with its vivid hues. Cobalt blue and coral orange are the colors chosen for the dial, the hands and the unidirectional bezel of this diver’s instrument offers cutting-edge performance in a sporty style. The Sea Hawk maintains the technical and visual characteristics that have made this line, updated in 2012, so successful. The cobalt blue of the dial and strap give the timepiece its nautical hue, while the minute and second hands and the power reserve indicator are picked out in orange, the same shade that highlights the first 15 minutes of a dive time on the bezel.
The dial features a raised “honeycomb” motif. The tridimensional hour markers are coated on the top side with a luminescent substance guaranteeing readability in darkness. A sloping flange, graduated with the minute scale, forms an aesthetic link between dial and case. The date at 2 o’clock, visible through an aperture with polished sides, plays with the appearance of asymmetry. The rotating unidirectional bezel encircling the sapphire crystal is designed to track a dive time, its notched edge making it easily adjustable.
The power reserve indicator stands out clearly at 6 o’clock —an area in orange showing the point at which the movement must be rewound— and the small second is positioned at 10 o’clock. The hands are covered with a luminescent material and can be read perfectly in darkness. The case, manufactured from stainless steel, boasts state-of-the-art technology and acclaimed watchmaking expertise as a guarantor of superior performance. It comprises several faceted surfaces with a subtle satin finish. A screw-down black rubber crown is set into a protrusion at 4 o’clock, providing reinforced protection against external impact. The watch has a diameter of 44 mm, a thickness of 17.1 mm and incorporates 38 elements. Guaranteed water-resistant up to a depth of 1,000 meters, it meets the requirements set by the international standard ISO 6425 for diving watches.
In addition, a helium valve ensures the air pressure between the watch’s interior, and its exterior environment is rebalanced after deep-water diving expeditions. The strap is made of rubber, expressly colored cobalt blue, and fitted with a folding steel safety buckle. The Sea Hawk is equipped with the in-house GP03300 self-winding mechanical movement. It has
hour, minute, second, and date functions, together with a certified 46-hour power reserve indicator with a frequency reaching 28,800 vibrations per hour or 4 Hz.
On the wrist, this watch wears true to its size and quite comfortably considering its top heavy weight of approximately 188 grams —almost 20 grams heavier than the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver on rubber strap. The wrist presence is unparalleled and anyone wearing this watch will immediately be recognized as a diver even if he's not. The Girard-Perregaux is also available with a stainless steel bracelet under ref. 49960-19-431-11A.
Sticker Price $10,100 USD on Blue Rubber Strap and $11,850 on Stainless Steel Bracelet. For more info on Girard-Perregaux click here.
