News: The Poinçon de Genève Launched New Website Today. More Than a Million Timepieces Bear the Poinçon Today.

Press Release

More than 125 years after its promulgation by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Genève, the Poinçon de Genève remains the oldest watchmaking certificate in the world, issued by a neutral and independent organization operating under State control. Since it was updated in 2011, it is also the only official certification that guarantees a watch’s quality of craftsmanship, chronometric precision and principal functions by checking each timepiece individually.

At the end of the 16th century, Geneva acquired a reputation of excellence in international watchmaking. Its name alone had a magical effect, and was soon being exploited by unscrupulous manufacturers. To combat such abuse and counterfeiting, the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Genève officially introduced the Poinçon de Genève on 6 November 1886. Generally stamped on one of the watch components such as the bridge or baseplate, the Poinçon de Genève was exclusively reserved for mechanical watches that had been assembled, adjusted, cased up and checked in the Canton. More than a seal of approval, it embodied the spirit of the 'cabinotiers': the independent watchmakers based in the Saint-Gervais district who formed the dedicated aristocracy of the working class and who elevated watchmaking to an art form. 

The Poinçon de Genève is currently the only watchmaking label to benefit from State guarantee. Today, this responsibility is fulfilled by TIMELAB, the Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Micro-engineering. The inspection criteria are drawn up by a Technical Commission made up of seven experts appointed for their knowledge and expertise in fine watchmaking. Their purpose, according to Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, founder and director of the company Agenhor and member of the Commission, “is not so much to define standards as to ensure the great tradition of Swiss watchmaking is preserved and respected. The Poinçon de Genève offers the assurance that a watch has been designed and manufactured according to the rules.”

In 2011, to mark the Poinçon’s 125th anniversary, the Technical Commission announced it was updating the rules to take into account technical progress and recent developments in the watchmaking industry. To complement the rigorous criteria of craftsmanship set out in 1886, it added tests on the finished watch: functions, water resistance, power reserve and accuracy. The Poinçon de Genève now covers the aesthetic, technical and functional aspects of the watch and is the only watchmaking certificate that guarantees the quality of decoration and the proper functioning of the watch, which is fully tested and checked individually in simulated on-wrist conditions.

The incredibly strict criteria of the Poinçon de Genève mean that certification is the prerogative of fine watches made by "manufactures" and independent watchmakers based in Geneva. The brands that comply with the certification standards undertake to respect its philosophy, right down to the design and development of their timepieces. In return, the Poinçon and accompanying certificate provide their clients with objective, irrefutable and internationally recognised proof of the quality of their craftsmanship and the correct functioning of their timepieces.

Since 1886, every watch stamped with the Poinçon de Genève has been delivered with a certificate of origin. Since September 2013 it has also included a unique authentication key and QR code. These enable the purchaser to check the authenticity of the document and the watch’s certification before buying it by consulting a database available on the website. Produced using an innovative procedure that combines holographic and hot stamping techniques, the certificate is almost impossible to forge.

Commemorating the 127th anniversary of the passing of the law of 1886, the Poinçon de Genève launched its website. The new website features a history section that traces the evolution of the Poinçon from the time of the “Fabrique” —late 16th century. A technical section explains the approval criteria and to ensure full transparency, it details the different stages and working methods of the individual functional tests and the people who carry them out. In addition, there is an international database that covers all watches that have received the Poinçon since September 2013. A major effort is currently underway to create an archive of all watches approved since 1886 —more than a million timepieces.

Some of the brands that currently submit their timepieces for the Poinçon de Genève are Cartier, Chopard, Roger Dubuis and Vacheron Constantin.

To check the Poinçon de Genève new website click here.

Experience: La Martina Polo Shirts. As Traditional as Wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 During a Polo Match.

Just as traditional as wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 during a polo match, it is to wear a La Martina polo shirt. As most of you know, and as we discussed it here, the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was created for polo players looking to protect the dial of their watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre came up with a clever solution and created the Reverso, a watch where the side of the dial could be flipped to expose the case back and avoid the watch from getting damaged.    

La Martina followed the steps of Jaeger-LeCoultre and created a brand that today is synonym of Argentina's third biggest passion —after 'fútbol' and tango— the game of polo. La Martina was founded in 1985 by Lando Simonetti an Argentinean born in Rome who started making bags and shirts for friends and relatives upon request. Today, La Martina is sold in the most exclusive cities around the world including Paris, Milan, Madrid, St. Tropez, Mykonos, London, Monaco and Zürich amongst others. If you are a watchlifestyler that travels around Europe frequently, we are 100% sure that you've seen their iconic double polo player logo numerous times and you probably own more than one of their shirts or bags.

Today, La Martina is to polo gear what Hermès is to ties. Purveyors and outfitters to some of the most exclusive polo clubs around the world, La Martina offers a wide selection of shirts, jackets, boots, saddles, travel bags, helmets and polo equipment. Even Prince Harry and Prince William have played wearing these polo shirts at the Eton College.

The easiest way to describe a La Martina polo shirt is by saying that it is not your run-of-the-mill polo shirt. Superior to Thomas Pink and Ralph Lauren, the attention to detail on these shirts is superb, their designs are as unique as it gets and the fit is just perfect. Often you will find patches or areas that appear as if it had been repaired, just to add more character to the garment.  

Next time you are attending a polo match at Palm Beach's Wellington Polo Club, at 'El Metejon' in Buenos Aires or at the Polo Club de Veytay outside of Genève, make sure you are wearing one of these shirts. Even if you don't play or follow polo, wearing one of these shirts will make you look and feel like you are part of one of the fanciest sports in the world. Now, if you feel like going for the whole nine yards, then make sure you pair the shirt with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931.

Sticker Price $250 USD watch not included. For more info on La Martina click here.

Insider: Romain Jerome 'Día de los Muertos' Limited Edition. Celebrating One of Mexico's Most Important Holidays.

Considering the importance of Mexican consumers from a watch collecting standpoint, Romain Jerome celebrates and commemorates this holiday with a limited edition timepiece decorated with a traditional colorful skull emulating the look of the traditional sugar skulls —'calaveritas'— of this Mexican holiday.

'Dia de los Muertos' —Day of the Dead— is a Mexican holiday celebrated on November 2nd throughout all of Mexico and it has been classified by the UNESCO as 'Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity'. The holiday focuses on remembering friends and family members who have passed while setting up private altars at home —called 'ofrendas'— to honor the deceased. The altars include pictures of the deceased, votive candles, Mexican marigolds —cempasúchil flowers—, sugar skulls —calaveritas— and the favorite foods and beverages of the departed. Scholars trace the origins of the modern Mexican holiday to indigenous observances dating back hundreds of years and to an Aztec festival dedicated to the goddess Mictecacihuatl.

The Romain Jerome 'Día de los Muertos' ref. RJ.T.AU.FM.001.01 is available in a limited edition of 25 pieces in two different versions with or without spiral micro pave black diamonds on the bezel. This watch is fitted with a black PVD coated steel case —with encrusted black diamonds around the bezel— measuring 46mm in diameter, a black ceramic bezel, a black mirror-polished dial with skull shaped applique adorned with a 'champlevé' cold enameled decoration, a polished RJ logo at 4 o'clock and black satin brushed arrow-shaped hands with superluminova on the tips. The seven colors on the skull are representative of the seven stages through which the soul of the dead must pass —according to the Aztec beliefs— before being able to rest in peace. The texture and finish on the skull applique is just flawlessly executed and a real treat to the eyes. Opposed to what most stock images depict, the flowers on the skull are pink and not red providing the perfect contrast against the cream background of the skull and the blackness of the timepiece.

Just as with any other Romain Jerome timepieces, the case is very solid and massive but quite comfortable. The case features the traditional claws and hex screws on the case band and this particular watch is fitted with a very unique and nicely decorated solid case back. The beating heart inside this fascinating limited edition timepiece is the automatic calibre RJ001-A fitted with 23 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.

The Romain Jerome 'Día de los Muertos' is fitted with a beautiful black hornback alligator strap with deployant buckle that rounds up the interesting and fascinating design of the watch.  

On the wrist, the 'Día de los Muertos' Limited Edition wears true to its size and quite comfortably. The wrist presence of this watch is spectacular and if you want to highlight the pink flowers on the skull even more, make sure you pair it with a pink shirt or any shirt with pink accents. If you are Mexican or just someone that worships 'la calaca tilica y flaca' this watch is a must have.  

Sticker Price $21,450 USD. For more info on Romaine Jerome click here.  

Insider: Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moon Phases. An Iconic Art Deco Inspired Timepiece.

The Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moon Phases gets its inspiration from the art deco model presented by the manufacture in 1945. Since we are based out of Chicago and our love for watches always relates to time and space, we decided to put some context into what was going on in our city during that very same year the watch was originally launched. That year, the 'Billy Goat Curse' was cast on the Chicago Cubs baseball team.

On October 6th, 1945 the Cubs entered game four of the Baseball World Series leading the Detroit Tigers two games to one. A local Greek man, William 'Billy Goat' Sianis —owner of the Billy Goat Tavern and a Cubs fan— showed up at the game with his pet goat, Murphy, thinking his pet would bring good luck to the team. Unfortunately, the goat was not allowed into the ball park and P.K. Wrigley —owner of the Chicago Cubs— told 'Billy Goat' that the goat couldn't go in because it stunk. According to the legend, 'Billy Goat' threw up his arms and exclaimed, "The Cubs ain't gonna win no more. The Cubs will never win a World Series so long as the goat is not allowed in Wrigley Field." The Cubs were officially cursed, subsequently, losing game four and getting swept at home from the World Series. After the Cubs loss, 'Billy Goat' promptly sent a telegram to P.K. Wrigley, stating, "Who stinks now?"

After a little bit of historical context regarding 1945, let's now get back to business and focus on this elegant and classic looking timepiece fitted with one of the most beautiful dials out there.

The Girard-Perregaux Vintage XXL Large Date Moon Phases ref. 25882-11-121-BB6B comes fitted with a rectangular —almost square— 'tonneau' shaped stainless steel case measuring 36.10mm in length and 35.25mm in width. The case visually appears larger than its actual measurements but its quite comfortable on the wrist and true to its size. This watch is fitted with a perfectly curved convex sapphire crystal that does not protrude at all and the visibility of the dial at any angle is just unparalleled. The beautifully executed case is fitted with a nicely engraved crown and a push piece corrector at 4 o'clock to set the moon phase.

This elegant watch is fitted with a silvered brushed finished dial with applied Arabic numerals, a large date aperture at 12, running seconds and moon phase indicator at 6 o'clock and dauphine hands. The dial plate is quite thick allowing for the date and the moon phase indicators to appear sunken into the dial with superb finishing around the edges. There are also two concentric rectangular ridges towards the center of the dial where the minute rail is located.

The date indicator is composed of two different calendar discs layered on top of each other. The disc closer to the dial is transparent and marks the second digit of the date while the bottom disc is solid white and indicates the first digit of the date. This is a clever solution to avoid seeing the gap between the digits as is common with other brands featuring large date indicators with double calendar discs. Something else worth mentioning about the dial is that the applied numbers are not completely flush against the surface but somewhat suspended with a very small gap. This adds great depth and perfect contrast to the well-balanced layout of the dial.

The beating heart inside the Vintage 1945 XXL is the automatic Girard-Perregaux calibre GP03300-0062 with 32 jewels that provides a power reserve of 46 hours when fully wound. The movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and after several days of wearing this watch, we noticed that it is quite accurate with no time gain or loss over a 48-hour period. The nicely finished movement —with perlage and 'Côtes de Genève'— is fully visible via the display case back.

To complete the classic and elegant look of this watch, the Vintage 1945 XXL is fitted with a nice black alligator strap with a folding clasp that is quite comfortable and easy to use. Additionally, towards the area where the strap meets the case, there is a flexible folding piece built into the strap that allows for the watch to sit flatter on the wrist and for the strap to wrap around the wrist instead of pushing down in a straight line and lifting the bottom of the case.  

While on the wrist, the watch fits nicely and comfortably like a glove. One of the best things about 'tonneau' shaped watches is that they mold perfectly to the shape of the wrist. One thing that caught our attention was the lightness of the watch weighing roughly 100 grams. The watch sits quite high on the wrist with a thickness of almost 12mm but it can still be comfortably tucked under a French cuffed shirt.

If you were thinking of trying to lift the 'Billy Goat Curse' by wearing this watch to Wrigley Field next season, we are sorry to tell you that wearing this watch with casual clothes is not really that much of an option. This is an elegant timepiece that unfortunately looks somewhat out of place when wearing a casual attire.

Overall, this is a watch that is very nicely designed and flawlessly executed and one that can definitely compliment any watch collection big or small.

Sticker Price $12,200 USD. For more info on Girard-Perregaux click here.

Insider: Blancpain 'Tribute to Fifty Fathoms' No Radiations Limited Edition. Only 500 Pieces Ever Made and We Found One.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the first modern diving watch launched in 1953. The original Fifty Fathoms was housed in a steel case with a domed crystal strengthened to withstand the pressure at a depth of at least fifty fathoms —approximately 91 meters. After a few years, the Fifty Fathoms quickly became recognized by divers outside the French Navy and was also adopted by the U.S. Navy Seals and the German and Israeli Navies. In the mid to late 60s, the 'No Radiations' symbol was added to the Fifty Fathoms as a safety measure to differentiate watches made for civilians and those made to meet military standards —in order to meet military standards and achieve the highest luminosity in dark conditions, the watches were typically fitted with a radioactive luminous material.

The Blancpain 'Tribute to Fifty Fathoms' Limited Edition ref. 5015B-1130-52A comes with the same case and movement specifications as the traditional black polished model  ref. 5015-1130-52 reviewed here. The two main differences between this limited edition model —besides the obvious 'No Radiations' symbol on the dial— and the traditional Fifty Fathoms, are the bezel and dial configurations. The 'Tribute to Fifty Fathoms' Limited Edition features a bezel with almost an identical configuration to the original Fifty Fathoms No Radiations from the late 60s —different font on the numbers— and the same type of dial configuration with no Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9. Additionally, the dial features round superluminova markers instead of applied arrow-shaped markers and date aperture at 3 o'clock with white calendar disc.

The beating heart inside this watch is also the Blancpain calibre 1315 with a 5-day power reserve. The 'Tribute to Fifty Fathoms' is fitted with the same sail-canvas strap —leather lined— equipped with pin buckle. Just like on the traditional Fifty Fathoms, the 'Tribute to Fifty Fathoms' is fitted with an anti-magnetic protective casing to protect its complex calibre from any magnetic fields. The case back is engraved 'Tribute to Fifty Fathoms'.

For those of you always looking for the most interesting limited edition watches, this is a watch that comes with rich history and tradition. If you are tired of wearing common run-of-the-mill diving watches, then it's time for you to add the Blancpain 'Tribute to Fifty Fathoms' Limited Edition to the collection. Now, you better hurry up because finding a brand new one is like finding a needle in a hay stack. Now, just in case you are interested, there's a brand new one sitting at the Tourbillon Boutique Chicago.

Sticker Price $16,100 USD. For more info on Blancpain click here.

Insider: Bell & Ross Sport Heritage BR 126 Chronograph and BR 123 Non-Chrono. Two Vintage Looking Watches Perfectly Executed and a Must Have.

The latest addition to the Bell & Ross Vintage Collection are these two beautiful watches under review. The Sport Heritage BR 126 features a 30-minute chronograph while the Sport Heritage BR 123 is a non-chrono with date. These two watches pay special tribute to the 1960s, a period of intense creativity and numerous innovations including the creation of Dassault's famous Mystère-Falcon 20 —the best business jet of its time.

These two fascinating timepieces not only look very vintage but also feel quite vintage as both are fitted with a perfectly executed tropic rubber strap with pin buckle that looks as if it was a new old stock strap from a previous era. For those of you concerned about the fit of the strap, this strap is very soft, malleable and comfortable. For those of you with smaller wrists, Bell & Ross offers three different sizes for a perfect fit.

Both models are fitted with black matte dials with sand-colored luminova to give the appearance of a rich 'cafe con leche' patina on the hands, markers and Arabic numerals. To round up the vintage look of these watches, the dial also features a 100 meter depth rating writing in red. These dials are flawlessly executed and a real treat to the eyes. The Sport Heritage BR 126 Chrono features running seconds at 3, 30-minute chrono-register at 9 o'clock and date aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock. The non-chrono model BR 123 only features a date aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock.

Both models are fitted with polished stainless steel cases measuring 41mm in diameter, fixed black bezels graduated to 60 minutes in increments of 10 minutes, ultra-rounded domed sapphire crystals and display case backs that allow for full view of the self-winding automatic calibres —the movement on the chronograph is slightly nicer than that on the non-chrono model. The crystals are treated with anti-reflective coating for improved visibility and the BR 126 Chrono features the traditional 'old school' pump pushers that are somewhat hard to push to activate the chronograph. Both watches are quite thick but still very comfortable. 

On the wrist, the watches wear extremely comfortably and slightly larger than their actual size —more like 42mm watches. The wrist presence is spectacular and definitely a conversation starter among watchlifestylers that appreciate vintage timepieces. At first glance, one would think these watches are new old stock 'safe queens' from the early 60s with the nicest and most even 'patina'. Upon close inspection the Bell & Ross logo is the tell tale of a modern timepiece with vintage character. Regardless, these two watches are really gorgeous and our two favorite Bell & Ross watches right now. Next time you are wearing your Barbour jacket, make sure you pair it with one of these fascinating watches.

Sticker Price BR 126 $4,500 USD. BR 123 $3,100 USD. For more info on Bell & Ross click here.  

News: Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia Zagato. Two 500-piece Limited Edition Watches.

From the exclusive partnership between Chopard and luxury automotive designer Zagato, comes the 500-piece limited-edition Mille Miglia Zagato. Since its founding in 1919, Zagato has collaborated with the most prestigious automobile manufacturers, creating icons of the road which have taken home the Mille Miglia trophy in the 1930s and as recently as 2012. Inspired by the company's current crop of esteemed automobiles, this exceptional timepiece ref. 168550-6001 in DLC blackened stainless steel and 18-karat rose gold features the Zagato logo on both the case back and grill-inspired dial, curved chronograph counters reminiscent of a Zagato roof and a red pusher, for a distinct nod to the racing world.

Exclusive, robust and technically impressive, the Mille Miglia Zagato watch is the product of the partnership between Chopard and that legend of Italian automobile design, the bodyshop Zagato. While Chopard takes care of the model’s "performance", “engine “and "frame", Zagato helps create its "bodywork", "interior" and "upholstery". Much more than an ad-hoc collaboration, this limited series is defined by both the Grand Turismo style of Zagato and the timekeeping discipline of Chopard.

It was along the route of the legendary Mille Miglia road race that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Co-President of Chopard, met with Andrea Zagato, the third generation in his family to head the Milan-based automobile body design firm. Chopard is the official timekeeper of the Mille Miglia race, in which the family has participated for the last 25 years. It was from here that the idea came of collaborating on a watch to celebrate their shared passion for automobiles and the values embodied by the Mille Miglia.

Sticker Price $9,900 USD for DLC Blackened Stainless Steel with 18K rose gold ref. 168550-6001 and $8,100 USD for DLC Blackened Stainless Steel ref. 168550-300.

For more info on Chopard click here.  

 

Posted on October 30, 2013 and filed under News, Chopard.

Insider: Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Secret. Fitted with Four Tourbillons, it Doesn't Get Any Better Than This.

The Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Secret is a timepiece unlike any other. This timepiece is a perfect example of how traditional horology can be pushed to its limits and innovation becomes the name of the game. The Quadruple Tourbillon Secret a.k.a Quadruple Tourbillon à Différentiel is a blend of art and technical innovation that encapsulates the very soul of its two creators with its fascinating four tourbillons. This watch is fitted with an asymmetrical case in 18K red gold —also available in platinum— measuring 43.50mm in diameter and 16.11mm in thickness. This fascinating timepiece is fitted with a lateral window on the case band at 8 o'clock that allows for full view of one of the double tourbillon cages. The alternating satin brushed and polished areas on the case create the perfect symphony that houses such a magnificent complication and a gorgeous black dial.

The black dial with gold 'appliqués' features a 50-hour power reserve indicator with running seconds at 2 o'clock, a 4-minute tourbillon rotation indicator at 5 o'clock and a 240-seconds register at 8 o'clock. The 240-seconds indicator is delicately engraved with French words that perfectly describe the intrinsic attributes and qualities of this horological masterpiece: 'Savoir-Faire', 'Inventeurs Horlogers', 'Créativité', 'Technicité', 'Univers Original', 'Bienfacture d'Exception', 'Oeuvre Unique', 'Noblesse Esthétique', 'Inventeurs Horlogers', 'Créativité' and 'Technicité'.

Now, let's explain how this amazing timepiece works. The Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon is fitted with two double-tourbillons composed by an inner tourbillon —set at a 30 degree angle and that rotates once every minute— and an outer tourbillon that rotates once every four minutes. The four tourbillons are connected at the heart of two autonomous regulating organs, where each regulating organ is composed of a balance wheel oscillator placed in the cage of the tourbillon that is located at an angle of 30 degrees and that rotates once every minute. This mechanism rotates within the cage of a second tourbillon every four minutes. The two oscillators independently regulated inside the four tourbillons are coupled by a spherical differential which transmits their combined precision to the time display. Two barrels connected in series supply power through the spherical differential to the tourbillons.   

The beating heart of this magnificent piece of 'haute horlogerie' is the Greubel Forsey calibre GF03 composed of 531 parts, 2 double-tourbillon cages with 128 parts each, a spherical differential composed of 28 parts and 63 olived-domed jewels in gold chatons. When fully wound, the calibre provides a power reserve of 50 hours beating at a frequency of 21,600 vph. The calibre is of course fully visible via the display case back.  

This fascinating timepiece is fitted with a black hand-sewn alligator strap with double-folding clasp engraved with the Greubel Forsey logo. The strap is very supple, elegantly finished and quite comfortable. 

The Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Secret is available in a limited number of eight pieces in 18K red gold and 8 pieces in platinum.  If you appreciate 'haute horlogerie' and you have the money to play in the game, this timepiece is one that will for sure be featured in horological history books, as one of the most fascinating complications ever created. 

Sticker Price $805,000 USD. For more info on Greubel Forsey click here.

Insider: Jaquet Droz Éclipse Onyx. Pure Elegance in a Complete Calendar with Moon Phase Relief.

This fascinating timepiece from Jaquet Droz's Majestic Beijing collection, needs very little introduction. The iconic Éclipse with onyx dial is a watch that embodies the essence of the manufacture, regardless of the lack of a figure eight configuration. The Jaquet Droz Éclipse Onyx ref. J012630270 if fitted with a 43mm stainless steel case and an onyx dial that includes a complete calendar with a moon and eight stars on relief. The retrograde moon eclipses with an independent rotating cover as the phases advance and a serpentine hand marks the date around the circumference of the dial.

This watch is fitted with the automatic calibre Jaquet Droz 6553L2 with 28 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 68 hours when fully wound. The movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and is fully visible through the display case back. The complications are set via the push pieces located on the case band and to ease this operation, the watch includes a very nice stylus with plastic tip to avoid scratching the case.

The Jaquet Droz Éclipse is fitted with a very comfortable black alligator strap with a very elegant engraved pin buckle. The watch wears true to its size and its wrist presence is fascinating.

If you are looking for one of the most unique complete calendars with moon phase in the market, then look no further. The moon and stars relief is as mesmerizing as a starry night under the skies of the North Pole.

Sticker Price $17,900 USD. For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.

Experience: The Breguet Exhibition Chicago. The Largest Number of Breguet Tourbillons Displayed in One Location.

This past Thursday October 24th, 2013, the special Breguet Exhibition of Tourbillons opened at the Tourbillon Boutique Chicago. This is a traveling exhibition with the largest number of Breguet tourbillons —from current collections and museum pieces— to ever be displayed in just one place outside of the Breguet Museum in Paris or their atelier in the Vallée de Joux.

Another fascinating night hosted by our friends from the Tourbillon Boutique here in Chicago —their store carries the largest selection of Breguet timepieces in the Chicago area as well as some very fascinating timepieces that are very hard to find like 'La Musicale' and the 'Grande Complication'.

In addition to the more than 30 modern tourbillons on display, three very special Breguet museum pieces were brought to the store for the exhibition. These included the Breguet Tourbillon No. 2567 with a hunter case circa 1812, the Breguet Perpétuelle No. 5 with Quarter Repeater circa 1794 —one out of six— and the Tourbillon Minute Repeater Pièce Unique ref. 1907BA/12.

After a nice welcome and remarks from Michael Nelson —Breguet's Brand Manager—, this fascinating evening kicked-off on the right note. The exhibition will be on display until October 29th and then it will travel to New York City where it will be on display from November 7th thru the 17th. In the picture below, we can also see Liliana Chen —Breguet's Public Relations Manager— in the red dress.

The evening was filled with appetizing 'hors d'oeuvres', champagne, wine and of course, these unbelievable horological creations that are a treat to the eyes and that without Abraham-Louis Breguet —the father of the tourbillon— would've never existed.

We would like to thank our friends at the Tourbillon Boutique Chicago and Breguet for letting us be part of this fascinating evening. Now, enjoy the rest of the eye candy.

For more info on Breguet click here.

Insider: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Aston Martin. A Very Sporty, Yet Extremely Elegant Timepiece Bearing Aston Martin's Logo.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph ref. 153847N is another one of the creations presented by this manufacture as part of their partnership with automaker Aston Martin. While the Master Chronograph bears a small Aston Martin logo on the dial and the case back, this watch still maintains the clean and very classic look of all other Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces.

This chronograph is fitted with a stainless steel case measuring 40mm in diameter with perfectly balanced proportions. The Master Chronograph ref. 153847N is fitted with a convex black matte dial with applied hour-markers, recessed chronograph registers and dauphine hands. The configuration of the dial includes an hour-chrono register at 9, a minute-chrono register at 3, running seconds at 6, a date aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock and a pulsometer scale around the edge of the dial. The red accents adjacent to the minute markers along with the red writing on the word 'Automatique' provide the perfect amount of contrast to a beautifully balanced dial. It is important to mention that under certain type of light the dial almost appears like an anthracite dial ranging from deep black to graphite gray. 

The case features a polished bezel and polished lugs with a brushed satin finish on the caseband. These alternating finishes create the perfect symphony on this very well designed timepiece. This watch is fitted with rectangular chrono pushers that are easy to press and a properly sized crown that is very easy to grip and use when setting the date and time.

The Master Chronograph is fitted with a solid case back that is nicely engraved and finished with very appealing visual elements including a small Aston Martin logo. The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 751A/1 composed of 277 parts, 39 jewels, double-barrel and that provides a power reserve of 65 hours when fully wound. The movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and the watch is waterproof rated to a depth of 50 meters. 

This watch comes fitted with a black alligator strap with double-folding clasp that is very comfortable and somewhat stiff when you first put it on. We are confident that after a few days of wearing this watch the strap will break-in nicely and it will become quite supple and malleable.  

This Master Chronograph wears true to its size and perhaps slightly bigger like a 41mm watch. The wrist presence of this watch is sporty, yet elegant and a must have if you like chronographs —especially considering the appealing price of this timepiece. Also available in 18K rose gold and with different dial options without the Aston Martin logo on it.

Sticker Price $10,400 USD. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.  

Insider: Maîtres du Temps Chapter Two. A Creation by Peter Speake-Marin and Daniel Roth.

Maîtres du Temps is not so much a new watch company but an entirely new horological concept launched in 2008. Founded by Steven M. Holtzman, it brings groups of master watchmakers together to develop exclusive timepieces. Steven began his career in horology in 1982, when he joined the family owned business —Gruen Watch Company—one of the oldest American watch companies founded in 1894. In 1997, he created Helvetia Time Corporation —HTC— to distribute high-quality Swiss watch brands —including Roger Dubuis— throughout the Americas. With Maîtres du Temps, Holtzman acts as a catalyst for today's greatest master watchmakers to collaborate on the most innovative projects imaginable. This time in order to develop the Chapter Two, Steven brought together two masters of horology, Peter Speake-Marin and Daniel Roth. 

The Chapter Two ref. C2T.05.21.142 in 18K white gold is a fascinating timepiece featuring a triple calendar with a groundbreaking movement that includes two independent rollers to display the month and day of the week. This watch features a polished 'tonneau' shaped case measuring 58mm x 42mm x 16mm that is massive but very elegant at the same time. Every detail on the finish and design of this case exudes elegance and perfection.

The chocolate color engine-turned sun-ray 'guilloché' dial with circular grain satin surfaces features printed roman numerals in white over a black background, running seconds at 6 and big date display at 12 o'clock. The month and day of the week are fully spelled on two black anodized aluminum rollers outside the dial at 12 and 6 o'clock respectively. The hands on the dial are made of 18K white gold and sword-shaped with diamond-cut facets. 

This fascinating timepiece is powered by the automatic Maîtres du Temps calibre SHC01 with a symbolic goblet-shaped rotor in 22K gold, 'panier guilloché' and relief text that reads: "Masters and Their Craft A Life Long Pursuit of Excellence". The movement is comprised of 382 parts and 32 jewels and provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound. The delicate finishing of the bridges features sun-ray 'Côtes de Genève', perlage, beveling, 'colimaçonnage' and polished screw heads. The movement and the rollers are fully visible through the octagonal display case back. Interestingly enough, this timepiece is fitted with a total of six sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating and the day and month correctors are on the back of the case to ease the setting of these complications.

 

The Chapter Two is fitted with a very elegant hand-sewn black alligator strap that is very comfortable and supple. The strap features a double-deployant buckle that is delicately finished and properly engraved. Even the finish of the strap lining is just perfection —notice the Maîtres du Temps stamping on it.

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This timepiece wears very comfortably on the wrist but sits quite high. Now, one thing that you will see when perusing or owning this timepiece, is that the craftsmanship behind it is just out of this world. This is 'haute horlogerie' in its purest form of expression. The watch is also available in 18K red gold and the dial colors available are chocolate brown, black, silver, rose or blue.

Sticker Price $86,000 USD. For more info on Maîtres du Temps click here.  

 

Experience: The Jaquet Droz Master Painter Evening. The Art of Hand Painted Dials and an Unforgettable Night.

This past Monday, we had the pleasure of attending a very exclusive event with Jaquet Droz at the Tourbillon Boutique in Chicago —the only retailer in Chicago that carries the brand and a store where you can find some very special Jaquet Droz timepieces. The event featured a Master Painter straight from Jaquet Droz's 'atelier' in Switzerland and a very small and select group of invitees. Once we saw the very talented and friendly Master Painter in action, we knew we were in for a real treat. Her skills were pure perfection in the art of horology.

During this fascinating evening filled with appetizing 'hors d'oeuvres', champagne and a decadent dinner, we were also able to peruse some fantastic timepieces across the different collections of the brand, including some very special watches and novelties like the Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Eclipse, the new Petite Heure Minute relief Seasons, the Grande Heure GMT, the Grande Seconde Quantieme and even an Erotic Automaton Pocket Watch —not appropriate for anyone under 18—, amongst other timepieces.   

Additionally, we were given the opportunity to experience what is like to paint on a Jaquet Droz dial and further understand why their hand painted dials are such magnificent works of art. Each attendee was given a brand new unfinished dial with the outline of the tiger motif in order to finish it by adding the right colors to it with a delicate brush. At the end of the night, we were all given the dial we individually painted  to take it as a keepsake. As you will see in the last picture, our painted dial —as expected— was nowhere near the perfection of the Jaquet Droz enamel painted dials. 

After painting the dials, we all enjoyed a delicious dinner catered by Gibsons Steakhouse —one of Chicago's top restaurants— paired with great wines. For appetizer Roasted Heirloom Beets with Maine Lobster, for entrée a Roast Gibsons Prime New York Steak and for dessert a decadent Chocolate Flourless Cake paired with a nice Lambrusco dessert wine.

An evening filled with great timepieces, nice people, good food and wines is always memorable; however, this particular night is one that will remain engrained in our minds and hearts as the true watchlifestylers we are. Thank you Jaquet Droz and Tourbillon Boutique Chicago!  

For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.

Insider: Breva Genève Génie 01. A Mechanical Timepiece with a Built-in Barometer and Altimeter.

Breva Genève is a company that was founded by Vincent Dupontreué on his 33rd birthday in 2010. Fueled by his desire for a nice complicated watch and inspired by a beautiful weekend in Italy's Lake Como, the Breva name came to mind —as ‘La Breva’ is a warm southern wind contributing to the agreeably mild micro-climate around Lake Como— and the marvelous idea of creating a mechanical timepiece that would also forecast the weather. In 2013, after three years of research and development, led by Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Dupontreué launched the Breva Génie 01.

The Breva Génie 01 is available in a limited edition of 55 pieces —of each metal— with a beautiful and very solid case measuring 44.7mm in diameter in either white gold or rose gold. The watch is fitted with three dual-purpose crowns on the caseband. The winding crown is located at 9 o'clock —engraved with Breva's logo—, a second crown located at 2 o'clock is used to make adjustments to the barometric pressure disc and to adjust the position of the altimeter when resetting it via a pusher —this crown is engraved with a wind rose— and a third crown at 4 o’clock is used to lock and unlock the air valve that gauges the atmospheric pressure —engraved with the word AIR. When this third crown is unlocked, the valve opens and allows a small amount of air to equalize air pressure inside the case with the exterior air pressure. Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture from any air before it enters the movement. 

The multi-layer skeletonized dial features several easy-to-read indicators to keep the wearer fully informed about the time, altitude, power reserve and the weather forecast. The watch features two sub-dials in smoked sapphire crystal with the hours/minutes dial at 8 and the barometer at 2 o'clock with icons providing scientifically based forecasts of likely weather conditions to come. The altitude indicator is located on the top part of the dial as a small flange. Additionally, there is a small indicator at 12 for the running seconds and a 65-hour power reserve indicator at 4 o'clock that is beautifully decorated with a wind rose. Right above the power reserve indicator there is an indicator marked ‘SEALED' that warns when the air valve is in the unlocked position.

By now, most of you might be wondering how this mechanical masterpiece works. Well, at 6 o’clock, there are two aneroid capsules stacked one above the other to measure the slightest change in air pressure as air goes into the watch via the AIR crown. As air goes in, the aneroid capsule expands or contracts with changing air pressure to provide an accurate forecast of the weather conditions. The aneroid capsules in the Breva Génie 01 were especially developed to Breva's specifications to optimise their precision and use in a wristwatch. The capsules are made from a special non-magnetic memory-metal —Breva patented invention— lighter and stronger than aluminum and twice as ductile as steel. A clearly visible lever rests on top of the aneroid capsules and transmits the combined height of the capsules through a complex system of gears and racks to the altimeter indication and the barometer. The altitude display reads from -300 to +5,300 meters, while the barometric display ranges between 973 and 1053 hectopascals —hPa. In a nod to the original method of measuring air pressure in inches of Mercury, an inner scale of the barometer is marked mmHg: Hg being the atomic name for Mercury —Hg from the Greek hydrargyrum meaning ‘silver water’. However, it is important to mention that the watch does not contain any Mercury in it.

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This fascinating horological complication is powered by a proprietary manual-wound movement developed exclusively for Breva by Jean-François Mojon from Chronode. The calibre is composed of 405 parts, 46 jewels and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph. When fully wound, the calibre provides a power reserve of 65 hours. This gorgeous calibre can be fully appreciated via the display case back. The case back features an engraved hectopascal and altimeter scale.   

This watch is fitted with an elegant black hand-stitched alligator strap with folding clasp. The strap is very comfortable and extremely supple. Even though the watch is waterproof rated to a depth of 30 meters, we wouldn't dare to get this gorgeous strap nor the watch wet. 

On the wrist the Breva Génie 01 wears true to its dimensions and perhaps a little bit too high on the wrist. This fascinating complication is one that will for sure become a conversation starter with other watchlifestylers. We have included an image of the white gold version at the bottom of this review for those of you that like the understated look of the precious metal in its white finish variation. 

Sticker Price $150,000 USD. Only $5,000 USD more for the white gold version. For more info on Breva Genève click here.  

News: U-BOAT Opens Boutique at the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Another Italian Landmark.

Press Release

U-BOAT opens another Italian landmark in the Ponte Vecchio historical bridge in Florence.

Being present in Florence, capital of the Renaissance, means a lot for all the prestigious brands but even more for Italo Fontana, creative soul behind U-BOAT, and since the beginning standard bearer of the “Made in Tuscany” values.

Italo, born in the near medieval city of Lucca, announces the opening of the U-BOAT third italian flagship store. The boutique, opens its doors in the short and popular pedestrian Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence spanning the River Arno. It is one of the few remaining bridges with houses built upon.

The opening follows the opening of the Italian boutiques in Milan, Corso Como and also overseas with the recent launch of its 18th boutique in the fashionista Nathan Rd. in Hong Kong.

For more info on U-BOAT click here.  

Posted on October 22, 2013 and filed under News, Watch Shopping.

News: Michael P. Sarp President of the Board of Armin Strom Passes. Our Condolences to His Family and Friends.

Press Release

The Armin Strom AG Manufacture is sad to announce the death of Mr. Michael P. Sarp on October 17, 2013 at the age of 65.

Mr. Sarp had been President of the Board of Armin Strom AG since 2010. With his death, the world of watchmaking acknowledges the passing of a leading personality who understood the industry particularly well.

The Armin Strom AG team has lost a mentor and someone who was extra special in all of our eyes. We shall remember his radiant capacity to communicate and dialogue with people, his greatest passion. His presence among the Armin Strom AG team over recent years made a decisive impact on the existence of the company.

We extend our most sincere condolences to his family and friends. Sincerely, the board of administration, the executive board and all employees of Armin Strom AG.

For more info on Armin Strom click here.  

 

Experience: A Night with Watch Anish and Seven Friday. What Watchlifetstylers Do.

We are often asked what goes on during a night where two leading watch blogs get together during a watch event. Well, look no further. Here's a photo essay that will give you a glimpse of a wonderful night with Seven Friday watches, Watch Anish and WatchCollectingLifestyle. This was a night filled with Audemars Piguet, Arnold & Son, Seven Friday, Rolex, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Hublot, Jaquet Droz and Linde Werdelin watches amongst others.

All about watches and the good life.

Now Enjoy the Photo Essay!!!

Insider: Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro. A Watch Inspired by a Tire Pressure Gauge.

The Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro is a watch that gets its inspiration from a manometer —tire pressure gauge. Giuliano Mazzuoli is an Italian watchmaker and inventor from Florence that comes from a legacy of bicycle makers, clockmakers and watchmakers. Giuliano's family was a prominent tower clock and long case clock maker in the 1700s. In the inventor's words, "There is nothing more difficult to design than simplicity, but one does not design simplicity. It is encountered like the way I encountered the manometro." His watches are designed in Italy but made in Switzerland to guarantee that the highest standards of watchmaking are met.

This fascinating timepiece inspired by simplicity is a watch that one buys not to be recognized but for the mere pleasure of owning it. The Manometro is fitted with a simple rounded highly polished stainless steel case measuring 45.2 mm in diameter and 14.8 mm in thickness. A nice and thick crown is positioned at 2 o'clock making you feel like you are wearing a real manometer on a strap. The simplicity and uniqueness of this watch is unlike any other watch we have reviewed recently. The Italian design of this timepiece is clearly perceived in every single component of the watch from the dial to the strap and everything in between.

This unique timepiece is fitted with a gorgeous ivory dial with black Arabic numerals, a chapter ring, black minute and hour hands, a red seconds hand and a 12 marker in red in order to provide additional contrast. The dial is simple, clean and very well balanced.

Fitted with an automatic ETA movement, the watch is solid, robust and reliable. The movement is protected with a screwed-in solid case back that is beautifully engraved with the timepiece's information. Nothing fancy, just simple and functional.  

The watch is fitted with a handmade —in Tuscany— natural color calfskin strap that is very nice, thick and quite comfortable. Due to the raw leather used on the strap, it will develop a nice patina over time showing more character as its color darkens. The strap is fitted with a pin buckle that is also very comfortable. As you can appreciate in the pictures, the strap is secured into the case by two screws. Additionally, there's a small stainless steel piece attached to the reverse side of the strap to guarantee that it molds correctly on the wrist.

The watch wears extremely comfortably regardless of its thickness and somewhat bulky case. This timepiece is available in a variety of case materials including brushed stainless steel, titanium, carbon fiber, PVD gunmetal gray titanium and a combination of rose gold and titanium. The dial is available in ivory or black.

If you want to wear a watch that very few own and become a trendsetter, this is a watch that will for sure become more popular over time. Glad we are the first ones to bring you this detailed review with live pictures.  

Sticker Price $3,500 USD. For more info on Giuliano Mazzuoli click here.  

Posted on October 18, 2013 and filed under Other Brands, Giuliano Mazzuoli.

Insider: Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic DNA. A Watch Made Out of History.

Founded in 2004 in Geneva, Romain Jerome has quickly become renowned for its unique concept, “DNA of famous legends”. Romain Jerome allows its customers to own a part of history by creating highly emotional timepieces and accessories inspired by and incorporating the DNA of a contemporary legend. To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Titanic, Romain Jerome released a limited edition of 2,012 pieces of the Steampunk Black Chrono and a 100 pieces of the Steampunk Black Chrono 100th Anniversary. The main difference between the two is the rusted propeller at 6 o'clock on the 100th anniversary model.

The Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic-DNA ref. RJ.T.CH.SP.002.01 is another creation made out of the remains of the Titanic. The black PVD case measuring 50mm in diameter is massive and is fitted with an oxidized and stabilized steel bezel stemming from the extraordinary fusion between the metal of the legendary Titanic wreck lying 3,840 meters below the sea and the metal provided by the Harland & Wolff shipyard in Belfast where the ship was built a century ago. This bezel is held firmly in place by four steel black PVD-coated 'claws' and hex screws. 

The skeletonized dial features the iconic 'XII' Roman numeral of the Titanic-DNA collection in ruthenium with a raw finish. The dial features a 30-minute chrono register at 3 and running seconds at 9 o'clock. A propeller recalling the majestic propellers of the Titanic is located at 6 o'clock. The propeller rotates as the rotor on the back winds the movement. This is a very clever touch that makes this timepiece even more unique. Additionally, four pistons are located at 10, 8, 4 and 2 o'clock symbolizing the brand's 'X' motif. To round out the intricate look of the dial, the satin-brushed hour and minute hands were designed resembling the Titanic's anchor. Overall, the dial seems slightly busy but extremely interesting.

The crown and pushers are very nicely designed and both are very easy to use. The winding crown is fitted with a rubber ring to ease its use and features a hex shaped end perfectly matching the hex screws on the dial and on the 'claws' around the bezel.

The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic calibre RJ001-CS composed of 300 parts, 39 jewels and that provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. The calibre is perfectly protected up to a depth of 30 meters with a solid screw-fastened case back featuring a beautiful propeller. 

The Steampunk Black Chrono is fitted with a very comfortable black rubber strap with deployant buckle. A hornback crocodile strap is also available if you prefer a more elegant look; however, we really think that this watch looks perfect on a rubber strap as it has a very rugged and sporty character. The strap features the RJ logo and it is fastened to the lugs by hex screws. The deployant buckle is fitted with a small push button on the clasp for quick-release.   

The watch wears almost true to its size and perhaps a little bit smaller. The watch does sit high on the wrist and its quite hard to fit it under a shirt cuff. Regardless, this is a very comfortable watch with fascinating wrist presence. If you like to wear timepieces that include remains of historical legends, this watch fits the bill. 

Sticker Price $18,000 USD. For more info on Romain Jerome click here. 

News: Richard Mille Introduces the RM055 Bubba Watson Limited Edition for the Americas. 30-Pieces Available of Each Red Drive and White Drive.

Press Release

Richard Mille expands his line of watches created in collaboration with Bubba Watson, the PGA golfer with the longest drive on the tour, with the introduction of two new limited edition versions of the RM055 available exclusively in North and South America.

All of the previous watches created with Bubba Watson—RM038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson, RM038 Tourbillon Victory Watch, and RM055 Bubba Watson—feature stark white cases, bezels and straps. The new limited editions take a 180-degree turn, and are recognizable for their all-black cases and straps with few, bright details. A red flange forms a colorful frame around the skeletonized manual-wound movement of the RM055 Bubba Watson Red Drive limited edition, while a white flange provides a halo around the RM055 Bubba Watson White Drive limited edition’s movement.

Both timepieces feature a case made from black rubberized grade-5 titanium, and a bezel constructed from black ceramic. A black DLC titanium and rubber crown, black rubber strap and black PVD- and Titalyt-treated movement complete the stealth look of the watches. Inside the case of each RM055 beats the caliber RMUL2, which is capable of withstanding accelerations of over 500 Gs, allowing it to perform on the wrist of a golfer with a massive drive.

The movement is equipped with a variable-inertia balance wheel, which ensures reliability in the event of impacts and during assembly and dismantling, thus improving the long-term accuracy of the timepiece. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable inertia adjustment is possible thanks to four small adjustable weights located directly on the balance wheel. The double barrel mechanism helps to improve and equalize long-term torque stability: This is achieved by dispersing the stored energy within two winding barrels, equalizing torque as well as reducing pressure and friction on the bearings and pivots, resulting in improved long-term performance. The distinct construction of the RM055’s case is designed to meet the demanding requirements of sportsmen. The case middle and back are in grade 5 titanium with a protective black rubber casing. This rubber is injected at high pressure around the titanium components, thus insulating the movement from all vibrations. This special surface treatment also makes the watch very comfortable to wear.
 
Richard Mille will produce 30 examples of the RM055 Bubba Watson Red Drive and 30 examples of the RM055 Bubba Watson White Drive. The limited editions are available at authorized Richard Mille retailers in North and South America, as well as the Richard Mille boutiques in Beverly Hills and Las Vegas.

Sticker Price $115,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.