Posts filed under News

News: URWERK UR-105M Iron Knight and Dark Knight. Two Different Models Each in a 77-Piece Limited Edition.

Today, URWERK released the new UR-105M, a timepiece that in their own words is inspired by the Middle Ages. An era when knights in shining armor would risk their lives for honor and glory, with only their faith and shield for protection. The UR-105M embodies their gallant valor in a titanium and steel arena, the satellite hours conquering time in an eternal jousting tournament. The new UR-105M is available in two different 77-piece limited editions with a case measuring 39.50mm x 53mm x 16.65mm. The UR-105M 'Iron Knight' is fitted with a sand-blasted titanium case with a stainless steel bezel with circular and vertical graining. Meanwhile, the UR-105M 'Dark Knight' comes with a titanium case and a bead-blasted AlTiN-treated steel bezel.

All of URWERK's iconic codes are present in the UR-105M. Satellite hours gliding slowly along the minute scale, darkened over-sized crown at 12 o’clock and a subtle technical feel. The UR-105M features an impressive titanium body reinforced by steel armor. At the heart of its time display four forged-aluminum satellites slowly orbit. Each of these satellites is visible during their 60-minute journey along the minute scale. A circular PEEK —PolyEtherEthercetone— canopy with openings enhances the current hour.

Once the hour has elapsed, the satellite —guided by a Geneva cross— rotates and continues around its orbit for another three hours before returning to the center stage. Completing the indications, running seconds and power reserve are displayed laterally on the case band. A honeycomb seconds disk on the right side —underneath the minute dial— indicates the passing of 10 seconds. This indicator is synchronized to another seconds indication on the right side of the caseband.

At the back of the UR-105M, URWERK’s signature ‘Control Board’ houses additional displays and functions: an ‘Oil Change’ indicator alerting when it is time for a service; 42-hour power reserve indicator; plus the fine-tuning screw allowing adjustment of the rate. The beating heart inside this new timepiece is the manual-wound URWERK calibre 5.01 with 38 jewels. The movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and the watch is waterproof to a depth of 30 meters.

Martin Frei, URWERK’s co-founder and artistic director, explains: “The case of UR-105M was developed as an armor. The visible screws on the bezel not only bring a distinctive esthetic to the watch, but also tack the steel armor onto its titanium body. This shield protects the movement —the heart of the watch— from the outside world’s aggressions. For me, the parallel with the chivalrous imagery is obvious. You have the power of the bezel-armor generating a feeling of invincibility.”

“With UR-105M, we’re not trying to show off, but rather ignite a calmer and mellower dimension,” adds Felix Baumgartner, URWERK’s co-founder and master watchmaker. “We offer an intuitive time display, with playfully ergonomic time setting. Technical challenge is at the heart of all our creations, and the performance here is subtle. First of all, the aluminum and PEEK structure has to rotate with absolute chronometric precision. We needed the lightest materials to achieve a high level of precision and PEEK was ideal: The PEEK polymer is used in surgery because its excellent mechanical properties and chemical resistance. The other challenge accomplished by UR-105M is of another type entirely: A honeycomb seconds disk on the right side of the case underneath the minute dial indicates the passing of each 10 seconds. This indicator is synchronized to another seconds indicator situated on the side of the case.”

The watch is fitted with a black alligator strap with pin buckle and we can only imagine the amazing wrist presence that it comes with. Sticker Price CHF 58,000 for the 'Iron Knight' and CHF 63,000 for the 'Dark Knight'. For more info on URWERK click here.

Posted on April 23, 2014 and filed under News, Urwerk.

News: Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución'. Celebrating Three Iconic Latin American Revolutionaries.

Yesterday, we brought you the news regarding Jean-Frederic Dufour departing Zenith to join Rolex as the CEO. Today, we bring you these three new amazing Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' Limited Edition timepieces that were just released by Zenith to celebrate three of the most iconic revolutionaries from Latin America.

These three new watches are only available in an exceptional three-piece limited edition that can be purchased individually or as a box-set with all three references included. Like all the watches in the line, the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' stands out immediately from the rest of the Zenith collection. The open dial architecture gives pride of place to the movement, making it possible to see and admire the three original mechanisms: the barrel with fusée-chain transmission appearing between 10:30 and 1:30 on the dial, the gravity control gyroscopic module that shows an entirely hand-crafted micro-painting depiction of the Southern hemisphere and the high-frequency regulator at 6 o’clock.

The incredible technicality of this timepiece also stems from intensive aesthetic research calling upon the talents of the best craftsmen, whose skills Zenith is committing to maintaining. The three gold subdials —hours/minutes at 12, small seconds at 9 and power reserve at 4 o’clock— have been finely guilloché and then enameled, equipped with blued steel hands reflecting the finest watchmaking traditions and screwed to the plate with blued steel screws. The plate has been hollowed out to fit the shape of the dials and the gyroscopic module. On the remaining super-light structure, five stars including Zenith’s, have been carved in relief and coated in midnight blue varnish. In parallel, the decor of the gravity control system’s counterweight shows an entirely hand-crafted micro-painting depiction of the Southern hemisphere.

On the case-back, the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' has three big surprises in store. As its name indicates, the timepiece is available in three versions paying tribute to three iconic revolutionaries from Latin America: Simón Bolívar, Ernesto “Che” Guevara and Emiliano Zapata. These are veritable miniature paintings produced by the best craftsmen with the help of a sophisticated system of gold appliques fixed directly onto the movement.

On the first model, fitted with a 950 Platinum case, there is a white gold portrait of the Venezuelan general and politician, Simón Bolívar —'Libertador' of the Americas— to the left of the counterweight of the gyroscopic module depicting the Southern hemisphere. Above him also in white gold, is his sword, and to the right of the counterweight are his pistols. In the background he is riding a white horse that one can see is prancing. Finely carved and painted by hand, these details are achieved with the utmost delicacy and under a microscope.

On the back of the second model fitted with an 18K Pink Gold case, there is a white gold portrait of Ernesto Guevara, known as the “Che”, wearing his famous beret with a star. This Argentinian, who was one of the men behind the Cuban revolution, is standing proudly above the counterweight of the gyroscopic module, while, on both sides, his followers are depicted brandishing their guns. The characters are in gold and carved by hand, while the details of the Cuban flag, on the left, and the ocean with the island of Cuba, in the top right hand corner, were painted under a microscope.

The back of the third model fitted with an 18K Yellow Gold case, catches the eye with its reference to the Mexican Revolutionary art movement, with bright colors surrounding a white gold portrait of a 'calavera' horse and his rider astride the gyroscopic module. On the bottom right, a cactus sits opposite the white gold portrait of the iconic Mexican revolutionary Emiliano Zapata on the left side of the gyroscopic module. To round out the design of this particular model, ancient Aztec iconography was added around the top right side corner. Here too, this exceptional work on the tiniest details was done under a microscope. Completely hand-finished by skilled craftsmen, these extraordinarily delicate adornments transform the three Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' into authentic collector’s items.

To make this limited edition even more special, Zenith decided to fit them with a very special presentation box. The three timepieces composing the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' edition are presented in a mahogany box adorned with corner trims and an ox-bone lock. The effigies of the three characters after which the models are named are silk screened onto a piece of papyrus embedded in the cover. Additionally, this exceptionally created box can be transformed into a very exclusive cigar humidor that can accommodate up to 200 cigars.

Sticker Price $419,000 USD for each reference. For more info on Zenith click here.

Technical Specifications Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane 'Revolución' Edition

Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Revolución Tribute to Simón Bolívar ref. 40.2213.8805/36.C714 950 Platinum case on Black alligator leather strap with 18-carat white gold triple-blade folding clasp.

Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Revolución Tribute to 'Che' Guevara ref. 18.2214.8805/36.C713 18K Pink Gold case on Brown alligator leather strap with 18K pink gold triple-blade folding clasp.

Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Revolución Tribute to Emiliano Zapata ref. 34.2210.8805/36.C713 18K Yellow Gold case on Brown alligator leather strap with 18K yellow gold triple-blade folding clasp.

Case: 950 platinum, 18K Pink Gold and 18K Yellow Gold respectively with a diameter of 45 mm and a thickness of 21.80 mm with a cambered sapphire crystal with glare-resistant treatment on both sides, protective domes for the gyroscopic module.

Dial: Enameled 'champlevé' gold dials with blued hands.

Movement: El Primero manual wound Calibre 8805 composed of 939 parts, 53 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 36,000 vph.

Water resistance: 30 meters.

Breaking News: Jean-Frédéric Dufour CEO of Zenith Manufacture Departs. Appointed Today New CEO for Rolex SA Replacing Gian Riccardo Marini.

Earlier today April 14, 2014, we heard the news from watch industry-insider Gregory Pons via his website Business Montres, that Rolex had announced to their employees that Jean-Frédéric Dufour —former CEO of Zenith— had been appointed as the new CEO of Rolex SA. With this strategic move, Dufour will be replacing Gian Riccardo Marini who had been the CEO leading Rolex SA since May 3, 2011. Dufour now becomes the sixth CEO that Rolex SA has ever had since its founding more than a century ago in 1905 by Hans Wildorf.

Photo: Gian Riccardo Marini. ©Rolex SA.

Photo: Gian Riccardo Marini. ©Rolex SA.

Up until now, Jean-Frédéric Dufour —45 years old— had been the Chief Executive Officer and President of Zenith Manufacture of LVMH since June 2009 and the Managing Director of Maison Ruinart at LVMH since September 15, 2011. Dufour joined LVMH after being heavily immersed in different areas of the business at several renowned watch manufactures including Chopard, Swatch Group and Ulysse Nardin. A graduate from the University of Genèva, he is now the leader of one of the top watch groups in the world.

©Rolex SA / Cédric Widmer.

Based in Genèva, Rolex is today not only one of the leading brands in the Swiss watchmaking industry but also a company that enjoys unparalleled reputation worldwide for its watchmaking quality and know-how. Its Oyster watches, all certified chronometers for their precision, are symbols of excellence and elegance, performance and prestige. The firm pioneered the wristwatch as early as 1905, and is at the origin of numerous major innovations that have marked the history of contemporary watchmaking. Among them the Oyster, born in 1926, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, and self-winding via the Perpetual rotor introduced in 1931. The brand has filed more than 400 patents in the course of its history.

So far, neither Rolex or Zenith have confirmed the news. For more information on Rolex click here and on Zenith here.

© Rolex SA / Cédric Widmer.

Posted on April 14, 2014 and filed under News, Rolex & Tudor.

News: Richard Mille RM38-01 Tourbillon G-Sensor Bubba Watson. Limited Edition of 50 Pieces.

After the success of the Richard Mille Limited Edition RM 038 Golfer’s Tourbillon released in 2011, Richard Mille has undertaken the development of yet another specific tourbillon watch for Bubba Watson with added functionality to complement his powerful drives on the course. The result is the RM 38-01 Tourbillon G-Sensor Bubba Watson, a timepiece that combines a patented G-sensor with a tourbillon mechanism, thus providing new insights for golfers during their game. The mechanical G-sensor, a Richard Mille world first containing more than 50 moving parts within a mere 17mm, allows the user to see the accumulated motion of their swing in G’s. The sensor, placed under 12 o’clock, is able to record the force generated by a golfer’s swing, specifically during the last segment. Now, this new watch is not the watch that Bubba Watson was wearing while playing The Masters this weekend and while winning his second green jacket at this tournament. Instead, Bubba was wearing the Richard Mille RM038 released in 2011.

In reality this means that the RM 38-01 can record up to 20-G’s of acceleration, a very important insight for golfers such as Bubba Watson, renowned for his ability to hit a ball at more than 310 kilometers per hour. Resetting the sensor back to zero for the following swing is done by simply pressing the aerodynamically formed pusher at 9:00 once.

The G-sensor mechanism is integrated into the heart of a manual winding tourbillon movement calibre RM38-01 which provides a 48-hour power reserve when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 21,600 vph. The movement is a technological marvel with its highly skeletonized, asymmetrical flying bridges and plates machined from grade 5 titanium with PVD treatment. The display case back allows for full view of the movement that almost resembles the grooves on the sweet spot of a golf clubface.

On looking at the RM 38-01 Bubba Watson, one’s attention is immediately drawn to the unique green case —Bubba’s favorite color— which upon closer examination again demonstrates the mastery and insight of Richard Mille in the revolutionary application of industrial materials for 21st century watchmaking. Additionally, the watch also features a crown cap with the unmistakeable dimples and glossy finish of a golf ball.

The front and back bezels of the tripartite case measuring 42.70 x 49.94 x 16.15 mm are created in TZP-G, a ceramic class of material based on microscopic tubes of alumina oxide powder injected with green colorant at a pressure of 2,000 bars. This is followed by a long and difficult machining and grinding process with diamond tooling in order to obtain the exact complex curves and arcs typical of Richard Mille’s designs. The result is a material that offers 20-30% more stiffness in comparison to traditional ceramics. These qualities make this the ideal material for a bezel that is commonly highly exposed to impact. In the last stage, the material is then delicately worked in order to create an attractive matte surface finish and further complemented with a central caseband in grade 5 titanium molded with white rubber, thus providing comfort and lightness for the user under all conditions. The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 meters, ensured by two Nitril O-ring seals and it is assembled using 20 grade 5 titanium spline screws and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.

Released in an edition of 50 pieces worldwide, the RM 38-01 Tourbillon G-sensor Bubba Watson provides all golfers with new insights about the strength of their swing and thus allows them to better adapt the power of their technique accordingly to the playing requirements of each course they compete on. It represents the perfect synthesis of haute horlogerie with 21st century innovation, comfort and usefulness for today’s golf enthusiasts worldwide.

Sticker Price $820,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.

News: Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents the Geophysic 1958 Limited Edition. A Tribute to Science and Watchmaking.

Today April 10, 2014 at the Explorer's Club in New York City, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the new Geophysic 1958, a watch that pays tribute to science and precision in watchmaking in three limited editions including a stainless steel model, an 18K pink gold and a platinum version. Back in 1958 when the scientific community composed of researchers from many different countries was preparing to undertake a program of major scientific explorations as part of the International Geophysical Year, this manufacture decided to associate with this unique initiative by creating an exceptional precision instrument named the Geophysic.

The reissue of this legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece comes back to life with a larger case with a diameter of 38.5 mm and a thickness of 11.40 mm —taking into account current watch size preferences while remaining entirely true to the design of the original model— and with a pure, highly legible dial. Inspired by the original model, the design of these watches further enhances the excellent legibility and aesthetic distinction of the historic instrument. In the spirit of the calibre 478BWSbr —originally fitted inside the first Geophysic from 1958—, the Geophysic 1958 is equipped with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 898/1 composed of 202 parts, 29 jewels and considered one of the most precise and reliable in-house automatic movements on the market today. This automatic calibre provides a power reserve of 43 hours when fully wound.

Three central hands indicating the hours, minutes and seconds glide steadily over the grained white dial bearing the inscription “Geophysic” along with the brand signature at 12 o’clock. The circle of applied hour-markers is interrupted by 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock numerals, thereby reproducing the layout and design codes of this legendary model. These Haute Horlogerie timepieces offering a unique combination of usefulness and aesthetic appeal bear the unmistakable imprint of the Grande Maison, as reflected in the luminescent coating in the historical color on the dots facing the hour-markers around the inner bezel ring. Meanwhile, the dagger-shaped hands are rhodium-plated on the steel version and radiate a warm golden glow on the 18-carat pink gold variation. Entirely in tune with the perfectly restrained dial of which the purely functional nature accentuates the timeless elegance, the refined case embodies a range of truly exceptional qualities. Water-resistant to 100 meters, its back displays the signature emblem playing with the J and L initials of Jaeger-LeCoultre superimposed on a globe crisscrossed by latitude and longitude lines.

Each version of the Geophysic watch is fitted with an alligator leather strap secured by an unusual pin buckle in colors matching the metal of the case: black for the steel model and chocolate brown for the pink gold variation. This new legendary instrument will be reserved for a circle of passionate enthusiasts who will enjoy the privilege of wearing a timepiece paying homage to a fascinating chapter in the history of science. The Geophysic 1958 watch will be available in an 800-piece limited edition for the steel version with a black alligator strap—, a 300-piece for the 18K pink gold with brown alligator strap and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutique exclusive platinum model produced in a limited series of 58 pieces with blue alligator strap and a slightly different dial that only includes the 12 and 6 numerals.

Sticker Price $9,800 Stainless Steel ref. Q8008520, $20,800 18K Pink Gold ref. Q8002520 and $32,000 Platinum ref. Q800652j. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here. 

Experience: Twelve Lots You Just Can't Miss at Leslie Hindman's Fine Timepieces Auction. A Little Bit of Everything for Everyone. UPDATE: Hammer Prices.

In a little bit over two weeks, Leslie Hindman Auctioneers here in Chicago will host their most important fine timepieces auction ever with 91 lots. We have already shown you the star of their auction, the Patek Philippe 18K yellow gold Perpetual Calendar with Moon Phases ref. 3448 with Tiffany & Co. dial here, as well as a very interesting Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 'Freccione' a.k.a Steve McQueen here; however, there are at least twelve other lots —out of a total of 86— that are quite exceptional and that also caught our wandering eyes while we previewed them last week. These timepieces are definitely worth talking about and previewing on site before April 8th. Among our favorite timepieces to be auctioned, there are a wide variety of vintage and modern Patek Philippe watches, several vintage Vacheron Constantin, a couple Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars, two Rolex Submariners ref. 6536/1 and two chronographs we really liked. Now, let's show you these twelve exceptional watches we really liked.

In the auction, there are three Patek Philippe Pagoda ref. 5500 that were released in 1997 as limited edition watches to commemorate the opening of the new Patek Philippe manufacture. The watches were produced in the following quantities: 1,100 in yellow gold, 500 in rose gold, 250 in white gold and 150 in platinum. During the auction, all models with the exception of the white gold reference will be offered in individual lots all accompanied by their boxes, papers, certificates and even a commemorative silver coin mint by Patek Philippe to commemorate the occasion. Interestingly enough, the yellow gold model still has the 'Poinçon de Genève' —Geneva Seal— tag attached to it. Our favorite Pagoda ref. 5500 is the rose gold model. Estimates range all the way from $12,000 to 50,000 USD depending on the metal. UPDATE: Platinum fetched a hammer price of $32,500, 18K Pink Gold $27,500 and Yellow Gold $21,250.

Another interesting timepiece is a Patek Philippe ref. 5015 with moon phase, subsidiary seconds and power reserve indicator that is being offered with box and papers including the certificate. The Patek Philippe ref. 5015 is one of the most iconic Patek references and a watch equipped with a hinged solid case back that can be opened like on vintage pocket watches to admire the movement. The estimate for this piece is $15,000-20,000 USD. UPDATE: Hammer Price before Buyer's Fees $25,000.

The Patek Philippe ref. 5100 was released in 2000 as a limited edition watch —1,500 pieces in yellow gold, 750 in rose gold, 450 in white gold and 300 pieces in platinum— to commemorate the arrival of the new millennium. The watch fitted with a case that recalls the lines of a manta-ray in 18K yellow gold, houses a 10-day power reserve manual wound movement. A beautiful silvered dial with power reserve indicator at 12 and subsidiary seconds at 6 o'clock rounds out the elegant look of this watch. This watch is also accompanied by box, papers, certificate and a commemorative silver coin. Estimate $30,000-50,000 USD. UPDATE: Hammer Price $35,000 USD.

These two vintage Vacheron Constantin manual wound watches circa 1950 —in individual lots but why not getting them as a pair. One of them in 18K rose gold with matte silvered dial and Arabic numerals and the other in 18K yellow gold with a so called 'tuxedo' dial have very fair estimates and feature extremely appealing dials with subsidiary seconds at 6 o'clock. Frankly, it really doesn't get more classic and elegant than with a pair like this. Estimates ranging between $3,000-6,000 USD.

Now, let's talk about one of our favorite Vacheron Constantin watches to be auctioned. We are talking about a vintage 18K rose gold Vacheron Chronograph circa 1949. The watch features rectangular chrono pushers, silver dial with applied markers and Roman numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock, a  running seconds register at 9, a 30-minute chrono register at 3 o'clock and a telemeter scale on the perimeter of the dial. Estimate $15,000-20,000 USD.

Another amazing timepiece and likely to be a heavy hitter in this auction, will be a skeletonized Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Quantieme Perpetuel in 18K yellow gold. This perpetual calendar watch is a perfect example of the attention to detail and craftsmanship from our friends from Le Brassus. The estimate —somewhat low in our opinion— has been set between $15,000-20,000. The other Audemars Piguet that we liked, is a Jules Audemars Day and Date circa 1990 fitted with a gorgeous white ceramic dial with black Roman numerals chapter ring and accompanied by its box, leather case and instruction booklet. This is a perfect first Audemars Piguet watch for any young collector wanting to avoid breaking the bank. Estimate $3,000-5,000 USD.

At the beginning of our post, we told you about two Rolex Submariners ref. 6536/1, well, here you have them. While these two Rolex Submariners ref. 6536/1 might not be in the best condition, they might still fetch some interesting dollar amounts because of their cases and bezel inserts. One of them, an example circa 1957 is fitted with a red triangle 12 o'clock marker bezel insert and a refinished dial —a collector's disgrace. To make matters worse, the dial on this watch is no longer a gilt dial —as it should've been—, but a dial with the sloppiest refinishing job we've ever seen. As you can see in the pictures even the hands got painted white and everything else on the dial looks really off, but if you can get past that then it might be a good opportunity. Estimate for the first watch $2,000-4,000 USD. UPDATE: Hammer Price $8,750 USD.

The second Rolex Submariner ref. 6536/1 circa 1956 features a beautiful ghost bezel insert, a dial that appears to be correct for the time period, riveted oyster bracelet marked 7-62 and hands that to our trained eyes seem to be off. Estimate for this one $8,000-12,000 USD. UPDATE: Hammer Price $10,625 USD.

Lastly, we have two favorite chronographs. The first one, a vintage 18K yellow gold Longines Flyback Chronograph 13ZN circa 1945 and the other, a mint Girard-Perregaux Ferrari Edition Chronograph in Titanium with Carbon Fiber dial. While the Longines is a two-pusher example of the 13ZN Flyback chronograph with a very nice silvered dial with applied gold Arabic numerals and blue telemeter scale with an estimate of $3,000-5,000 USD, the Girard-Perregaux is an exceptional example of their collaboration with Ferrari in the late 90s and early 2000s with an estimate between $1,000-2,000 USD.

Ladies and gentlemen, you now have a good idea of what's in store for you at the upcoming Leslie Hindman fine timepieces auction. If nothing here sparked your interest, there are more timepieces in their catalog that you might fancy so make sure you download your copy. Now, if after that you still don't feel like bidding on anything, at least you will have fun guessing what some of these watches will end up fetching. We will for sure update you with the results from the auction.

Disclaimer: Please do not use our images or content as your buying guide or condition report for these watches. Only Leslie Hindman Auctioneers can provide you with such information.

For more info on Leslie Hindman Auctioneers click here.

News: Audemars Piguet Presents the QEII Cup 2014 Royal Oak Offshore Diver Limited Edition. Only 150 Pieces Available.

Audemars Piguet Presents the QEII Cup 2014 Royal Oak Offshore Diver Limited Edition ref. 15709TR.OO.A005CR.01, a perfect representation of sports performance in 'haute horlogerie'. This new limited edition Royal Oak Offshore Diver is the product of a collaboration with The Hong Kong Jockey Club for the 16th Audemars Piguet Queen Elizabeth II —QEII— Cup in Hong Kong.

In a race that attracts participants from all over the world, up to a HK$14 million winning purse will be offered. To commemorate the 16th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet QEII Cup annual international race in Hong Kong, the brand will be launching a 150-piece Royal Oak Offshore limited edition timepiece. A masterpiece incorporating impeccable craftsmanship and contemporary design, it is the perfect timepiece to mark an important event on the social horse racing calendar, appealing to the sophisticated watch connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike. The unique combination of the 42mm tantalum case, the 18-carat pink gold bezel, slate grey dial and the “large square scale” grey crocodile leather strap create contrasting colors and accentuate the features of this timepiece. Engraved on the sapphire transparent case back is the legend “Audemars Piguet QEII Cup 2014 – Limited Edition” and the “Audemars Piguet QEII Cup” logo. Through caseback, one can easily admire the 22K oscillating weight and decorations of the 3120 Manufacture Calibre.

The highly anticipated 2014 Audemars Piguet QEII Cup will take place on April 27 at the Sha Tin Racecourse. The Selection Announcement will be held on April 9 to reveal the 14 contending horses that will be participating in this international race while on April 24, the  Barrier Draw will determine the barrier number of each of the competing horses. On the following day, Audemars Piguet will be hosting the annual Gala Party with the Hong Kong Jockey Club, where the local celebrities, socialites, and representatives from the equestrian circle will gather to celebrate this highly anticipated annual event. The QEII Cup race was established in 1975 to commemorate the visit of the Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of
Edinburgh, Prince Philip to Hong Kong. The race is traditionally run in the spring season and has become one of the most important social events in Hong Kong since then. Over the years, the QEII Cup has evolved into an internationally recognized race, with participants from both local and overseas. Audemars Piguet became the title sponsor of the QEII
Cup since 1999, which is now an International Group 1 race and stands prominent in the racing firmament, currently offering a purse of HK$14 million.

Sticker Price $30,500 USD. For more info Audemars Piguet click here.

Technical Specifications of the Audemars Piguet QEII Cup 2014 Royal Oak Offshore Diver Limited Edition ref. 15709TR.OO.A005CR.01

Dial: Slate grey dial with 'Méga Tapisserie', 18K pink gold applied markers, hour and seconds hand in 18K pink gold and black minute hand.

Flange: Uni-directional rotating slate grey flange with diving scale.

Calibre: Automatic Audemars Piguet 3120 with a diameter of 26.60 mm, thickness of 4.26 mm, 280 parts, 40 jewels and power reserve of 60 hours.

Case: Tantalum measuring 42 mm in diameter with 18K pink gold bezel and plots.

Case back: Engraved with the legend “Audemars Piguet QEII Cup 2014 – Limited Edition” and
“Audemars Piguet QEII Cup” logo.

Water Resistance: 300 meters.

Strap: Hand-stitched “large square scale” grey alligator strap with titanium pin buckle.

Baselworld 2014: Bell & Ross BR 126 Carbon Air Force Insignia. Live Pictures and Pricing.

This week at Baselworld 2014, Bell & Ross presented 21 new watches across their different collections. While we will be presenting most of them here, this is the turn for the brand new Bell & Ross BR 126 Carbon Air Force Insignia. This new model, is a perfect example of the strong focus that the brand continues to give to the aviation theme. This watch features a blackened PVD stainless steel case measuring 41.6 mm in diameter, a black calfskin strap and an automatic movement with running seconds at 3, 30-minute chrono register at 9 and a date aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock. The black dial on this watch features white minute markers and the Air Force insignia at 6 o'clock.

We are confident that this new model part of the Vintage BR collection will quickly become a favorite among Bell & Ross fanatics. More pictures and full review to follow.

Sticker Price $4,800 USD. For more info on Bell & Ross click here.

Posted on March 31, 2014 and filed under Bell & Ross, Baselworld, News.

Baselworld 2014: Arnold & Son DSTB Dial Side True Beat. Live Pictures and Pricing.

Demonstrating its rich British history and quality Swiss craftsmanship, Arnold & Son unveils the limited edition DSTB —Dial Side True Beat. A tribute to the brand’s 250th anniversary, the DSTB is a testament to its heritage, vision and Haute Horlogerie ingenuity. The true beat seconds is a traditional complication of Arnold & Son, and this watch pays tribute to the watches produced by John Arnold during the second half of his career, when he and his son were the first to develop marine chronometers. Upholding that legacy, Arnold & Son’s master watchmakers thrive on creating complicated movements for exquisite timepieces. Such is the case with the DSTB watch, a truly innovative technical and architectural achievement. The newly developed automatic movement showcases the true beat seconds' mechanism entirely on the dial side. Not just the hands, but also the lever, wheels and three rose-gold treated true beat seconds bridges are located in all their beauty on the dial side. Making the watch even more alluring is the fact that the true beat seconds lever is shaped like an anchor paying homage to Arnold’s maritime achievements.

The true beat seconds are superbly indicated via a large sapphire dial that occupies the top left portion of the dial at 11 o’clock. At the 4 o’clock position, a white lacquered domed subdial indicates the hours and the minutes via blued hands. These generously proportioned, overlapping indications translate into a stunning three-dimensional dial. This restructuring of the intricate mechanism yields a concept not achieved in the watch industry heretofore.

The self-winding calibre A&S6003 has 229 components. In true Arnold & Son style, the movement features Haute Horlogerie finishing with hand-chamfered and satin-finished lever and bridges, polished edges and fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes. The visible dial plate is NAC grey treated with large circular finishing, and blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads.

The magnificent timepiece is housed inside a 43.5 mm 18-carat red gold case with anti-reflective sapphire crystal and caseback for viewing the superbly finished movement, complete with skeletonised oscillating weight. The 250th anniversary edition of the DSTB will be limited to just 50 timepieces underscoring the brand’s commitment to exclusivity and excellence.

Sticker Price $46,500 USD. For more info on Arnold & Son click here.

Technical Specifications Arnold & Son DSTB Dial Side True Beat

Dial: Dmed and white lacquered with sapphire ring indicator for True Beat seconds.

Case: 18K red gold measuring 43.5 mm in diameter.

Crystals: cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides.

Movement: Arnold & Son automatic calibre A&S6003 with 32 jewels, power reserve of 50 hours, 28,800 vph. Palladium treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing with hand-chamfered
bridges and polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, dial plate NAC grey treated with large circular finishing, circular satin-finished wheels, blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads. True beat seconds bridges 18K rose gold treated, satin-finished with hand-chamfered and polished edges and with rhodium treated oscillating weight skeletonised with brushed surfaces.

Strap: hand-stitched brown or black alligator leather

Waterproof: 30 meters.

Limited edition: 50 pieces.

Reference: 1ATAR.L01A.C120A

Baselworld 2014: We Are Reporting Live from Basel. Stay Tuned for All The Updates in Just a Few Hours.

As you all know, Baselworld is the most important watch and jewelry event in the world. Last year, Baselworld drove 122,000 visitors from 100 countries, 1,460 exhibitors and 3,610 journalists. Baselworld 2014 is expected to be even bigger and drive close to 150,000 visitors this year.

If you've followed our updates across our different social media platforms, then you know we have landed safely in Zürich and we are more than ready to bring you unlimited updates as soon as Baselworld 2014 kicks-off Wednesday 26th at 12pm —Basel Time— for what is called 'Media Day'.

The Baselworld 2014 Media Conference is scheduled for 11am and afterwards, the exhibition halls will be officially open at least for the press and the media. The official opening of Baselworld 2014 for all visitors is Thursday March 27th at 8:30am.

Some of the brands that are expected to bring some big news this year include Rolex, Tudor, Omega, Patek Philippe, Zenith, TAG Heuer, Breitling, Bell & Ross and of course all the independent 'haute horlogerie' manufactures like MCT, MB&F, HYT, Breva, Romain Jerome, Christophe Claret and De Bethune amongst others.

Will we finally see the return of a Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi or perhaps, even a Rolex Tri-Compax with Moon Phase?

Will Tudor wow us with a reissue of the iconic Ranger or perhaps a new blue Black Bay?

One thing we know for sure, is that this edition of Baselworld 2014 will be very special as Patek Philippe is celebrating its 175th Anniversary.

As soon as the halls open, we will be publishing our updates. Stay tuned and those miss any of them!

Posted on March 25, 2014 and filed under News.

News: John Mayer Sues Bob Maron for At Least $656,000 USD. What This Means for Vintage Watch Lovers.

Photo: FanPop.com

On March 18, 2014, the celebrity news source TMZ broke the news that American recording artist John Mayer was suing Robert Maron a.k.a Bob Maron —renowned watch dealer to the stars with clients like Charlie Sheen— for at least $656,000 USD, claiming that some of the watches Maron sold him, were 'counterfeit' as confirmed by the Rolex Service Center.

John Mayer, besides being quite popular for his guitar playing abilities, is also well known in the watch collecting circles due to his close relationship and contributions to a well respected watch blog. John's love for watches probably started when he met Eric Clapton —also known to be an important watch collector.

No matter how much you know about watches or how close you are to the experts, you could always find yourself lost in the murky waters of the vintage watch collecting world. Especially, when it comes to vintage Rolex and Tudor timepieces. Always, always do your homework and if necessary, reach out to well renowned experts like Philipp Stahl, Stefano Mazzariol, Marcello Pisani or Pucci Papaleo.

Photo: Getty Images.

For those of you not familiar with Robert Maron, according to his website, he has been a watch dealer since the 80s and known throughout the world for his 'expertise' in rare and vintage timepieces, especially around Patek Philippe and Rolex. Maron is a graduate of Harvard University and it was while attending UCLA Law School that he first considered taking his hobby to the next level becoming a full-time watch dealer. During this period, Maron began actively buying and selling vintage wristwatches and the extra money earned from his part-time business helped finance his law school education. Maron soon realized that his love for fine watches outweighed his desire to become a lawyer and following his graduation from law school, he chose watches over law as his full-time career. It is hard to believe that a watch dealer with such credentials could be caught up in a scandal like this.

But what does this mean for the vintage watch world and vintage watch lovers? Well, the moral of the story is that you really can't trust anybody and 'buying the seller' is no longer the safe route to go anymore.

When someone like John Mayer —a so called 'watch expert'— gets allegedly ripped off by another watch expert like Bob Maron and not even John Mayer's friends could tell that these watches were indeed 'counterfeit', it means that the vintage watch industry could be facing huge issues moving forward. If you are not any of the four expert gentlemen mentioned earlier, you should probably be more than careful when buying vintage. Not only have we seen a large number of 'counterfeit' cases, bezel inserts, dials and bracelets but also even punched papers.

While collecting vintage Rolex watches is very appealing and wearing a 'Freccione', a 'Paul Newman' or a 'Double Red Sea-Dweller' gives you a ton of street credit among other connoisseurs and heavy hitters, you are taking big risks. While there are many watch dealers that will never misrepresent watches and only sell you fully legit watches, there are others that are well known to offer what we call 'put-together' vintage watches trying to make them pass for 'original untouched safe queens' —you guys know who you are. In reality, these watches are just the sum of pristine different parts of many watches.

Oh, and don't forget those selling 'artificially aged' bezel inserts. There are a ton out there selling for thousands of dollars. Also, if you look deep enough, you'll find an Asian company selling 'counterfeit' Rolex and Tudor vintage watch parts online that we were told about by a watch dealer—we still wonder why this company has not been busted yet after so many years in the market. If, after checking that website you are still brave enough to buy another vintage Rolex, that means that you could be one of the four vintage experts mentioned earlier.

To us, the only way to buy with peace of mind, is to buy from the original owner. Here's one that we know for sure comes from the original owner.

You can find the full complaint documents here.

News: Armin Strom Continues Partnership with F1 Team Marussia. It's Been Four Consecutive Years Now.

We have some great news for all our readers that our Formula One fans —and we know it's most of you. Armin Strom, is pleased to announce the continuation of its collaboration with the Marussia F1 Team. Armin Strom will be acting as the official timing partner for the Anglo-Russian Formula 1 Team for a fourth consecutive season. With the dramatic new regulations introduced for the 2014 season as we shared them here, will see some important technological developments potentially upsetting the balance of power at the front of the grid.

Equipped with a Scuderia Ferrari powertrain, the Marussia F1 Team hope to improve on their 2013 achievement of the all-important 10th position in the constructors’ championship. With Max Chilton, friend and ambassador of the Biel manufacturer, being retained as a race driver after an impressive debut season, Armin Strom is proud to have Max as its brand ambassador within the paddock.

The exceptionally strong relationship between the Team and the Manufacturer has developed over the past seasons, and this has led to Armin Strom creating watches for Baselworld 2014 that incorporate the precision and composites used to build the Marussia F1 Team MR03. Here are the images of the five watches that currently conform Armin Strom's Racing collection and once we are reporting live from Baselworld 2014 we will bring you images of the new timepieces to be unveiled there.

For more info on Team Marussia click here and for Armin Strom here.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Arnold & Son Presents the DTE: Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time Watch. Another Masterpiece of Horology.

John Arnold was born in Cornwall in 1736. His father was a watchmaker and his uncle a gunsmith, which probably explains his early interest in precision engineering and metalwork. A talented craftsman and scholar, he left England for the Netherlands at the age of 19 after completing his apprenticeship to hone his watchmaking skills. He returned two years later speaking excellent German, which stood him in good stead later at the court of George III, and had established himself as a watchmaker of repute in London's Strand by his mid-twenties. After Arnold presented the smallest repeating watch ever made to King George III and to the court, he rapidly acquired a wealthy clientele. He was one of the most inventive watchmakers of his day and held patents for a detent escapement, bimetallic balance and helical balance spring. Arnold's "No. 36" was the first timepiece to be called a chronometer, a term reserved for unusually precise watches to this day. Arnold also played a central role in the events of his day. Along with other watchmakers, he addressed the problem of determining longitude, and won several grants and awards offered by the British Parliament. He enjoyed such respect in his profession that he became a close friend of Abraham-Louis Breguet. The timepieces of Arnold and his son accompanied famous explorers on their voyages of discovery, helped the East India Company establish its empire and how Napoleon Bonaparte himself presented an Arnold clock to the Observatory of Milan in 1802.

John Arnold and Abraham Louis Breguet, silver cased chronometer with tourbillon and spring-detent escapement, London, England, 1774 and Paris, France, 1808.

250 years later, Arnold & Son celebrates its 250th anniversary with another masterpiece of horology in a limited edition of only 28 pieces, the DTE: Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time watch. A generous 43.5 mm watch 18K red gold with two white dials —one with Roman numerals and the other with Arabic numerals— accentuated with blued hour and minute hands. The DTE is a masterpiece of symmetry, balance and three-dimensional beauty combined with technical foresight and ultimate performance precision.

The double barrels of the watch offer a superb 90 hours of power reserve. In typical Arnold & Son style, the watch is incredibly detailed and features superlative Haute Horlogerie finishing. The dial side of the timepiece offers symmetry and depth. It features two white lacquered domed dials – one each at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock – for the dual time displays. The two tourbillon escapements are harmoniously balanced at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock and seem to float over the dial thanks to their alluring raised 18K red gold bridges. The backdrop for these double lacquered dials and double tourbillon escapements is a magnificently decorated vertical Côtes de Genève stripes plate.

The two crowns – one each for setting the local and the home time – are located at 2 o’clock and 8 o’clock, and the two mainsprings are wound using the crown at 2 o’clock. In addition to the double tourbillon escapement and the dual dial/dual time indication, the watch is incredibly efficient in that it not only offers local time in hours and minutes, but also offers hours and minutes of a second time zone to be set separately —thereby enabling the wearer to have precise time in zones that differ from Greenwich Mean Time by quarter-hour or half-hour increments. Each time zone display has its own gear train and its own tourbillon escapement.

The watch, powered by the all-new mechanical hand-wound calibre A&S8513 —visible via the display case back—, brings the centuries-old tradition of double movements back to life in 21st century style. The watch is fitted with an very elegant hand-stitched brown or black alligator strap.

Sticker Price $210,000 USD. For more info on Arnold & Son click here.

Technical Specifications Arnold & Son DTE ref. 1DTAR.L01A.C120A

Case: 18K red gold measuring 43.5 mm in diameter with display case back.

Movement: Calibre A&S8513 Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical double tourbillon movement, hand-wound, 42 jewels, diameter 37.3 mm, thickness 8.35 mm, power reserve 90 hours, double barrel, 21,600 vph. Fully decorated nickel-silver movement, rhodium treated with hand-chamfered bridges and polished edges, fine circular graining and 'Côtes de Genève' rayonnantes, plate dial side with 'Côtes de Genève', circular satin-finished wheels with
hand-chamfered and polished edges, blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads.

Functions: local hours and minutes, GMT hours and minutes, double tourbillon.

Tourbillon: 18K red gold bridges, satin-finished and mirror- polished surfaces with hand-chamfered and polished edges. Hand-chamfered and mirror-polished tourbillon cages.

Dial: domed and white lacquered.

Crystal: cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides.

Water Resistance: 30 meters.

Strap: Hand-stitched brown or black alligator leather.

Limited edition: 250th Anniversary, 28 timepieces.

News: Louis Moinet Presents the Qatar Tourbillon at Doha. A Timepiece with Two Fragments of the Only Meteroite Ever Found in Qatar.

Louis Moinet presents the Qatar Tourbillon at the 10th edition of the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition. This new timepiece in an exceptional 18K white gold case measuring 47 mm in diameter, composed of 59 different components and equipped with the Louis Moinet signature crown guard features the essence of this wonderful Middle Eastern country with a hand-engraved applique around the periphery of the dial, depicting sand dunes and two Qatari bent swords. It also features the oldest known fossil on earth, a three-billion-year-old red stromatolite, which is found in the center of the dial, between the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and the visible mainspring at 12 o’clock.

In addition to the ultra special fossil located on the center of the dial, the watch features two fragments of the one and only meteorite ever been found in Qatar and acquired by Louis Moinet to be turned into horological art. The meteorite was discovered in the middle of the desert on May 10th of 2010 by Luc Labenne, the highly-regarded internationally renowned meteorite hunter. This unique meteorite Chondrite type H5-W4-S2 was discovered after a ten-day hunt with ten hunters and three vehicles. According to the Meteoritical Society, the meteorite’s official name is Qatar 001 and it originated from the asteroid belt situated between the orbits of Mars and Jupiter from where it traveled more than 260 million kilometers before landing in the area of Jariyan al Batnah in Qatar.

The view through the Qatar Tourbillon display-back is almost as spectacular as the dial side, with the ‘octopus spring’ of the winding and setting mechanism taking the center stage. This ingenious component is effectively three springs in one —pull-out piece spring, lever spring and click spring— all radiating from the center like the swirling legs of an octopus. The movement plate is engraved with Louis Moinet's “Côtes du Jura” motif. The watch is equipped with a gorgeous dark blue hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather strap with 18K white gold & black titanium folding clasp with Louis Moinet logo. The Qatar Tourbillon is available in an exclusive limited edition of only 12 pieces.

 

Sticker Price TBC. For more info on Louis Moinet click here.

Technical Specifications of the Louis Moinet Qatar Tourbillon

Dial: Hand-engraved dial depicting two bent swords and sand dunes set with Qatar meteorite 001 with exclusive tourbillon escapement, central hour and minutes.

Movement: Manual wound with “octopus” spring, 19 jewels, power reserve of 72 hours, 21,600 vph, tourbillon cage with one full rotation every 60 seconds, side lever escapement, “Côtes du Jura” decoration and blued steel screws.

 Water Resistance: 30 meters

Case back: Display case back secured with 6 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet markings.

Crystals: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

Limited Edition of 12 pieces

 

Reference No. LM-14.70.21

News: Arnold & Son Presents the TB Victory Special Limited Edition. A Tribute to Britain's National Museum of the Royal Navy in a Unique Piece.

A Tribute to the National Museum of the Royal Navy: Arnold & Son Announces Special Limited Edition of the TB Victory Britain’s National Museum of the Royal Navy comprises five museums that document the part played by the Royal Navy in the shaping of the nation and of the modern world. One of those Museums is HMS Victory, the world's most famous warship, which had her finest hour as Lord Nelson's flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. With this special, one-piece edition of the TB Victory, Arnold & Son pays a special tribute to one of the nation’s most valued institutions. Some 250 years ago, John Arnold and his son, John Roger, played a central role in developing the chronometers that enabled 18th-century navigators to determine longitude at sea and helped establish the Royal Navy as the dominant force on the world’s oceans. Today, the company looks back with pride on that contribution. As Philippe Boven of Arnold & Son explains: “We are keenly aware of the close links between our company and the Royal Navy, and are presenting this special edition of the TB Victory to the National Museum as an expression of our respect and admiration for the Museum which keeps that unique heritage alive.” His sentiments are mirrored by those of Dr. Dominic Tweddle, Director-General of the National Museum of the Royal Navy: “I am delighted and honored to accept this unique timepiece from Arnold & Son on behalf of the Museum. It is an acknowledgement, exquisitely executed, of the significant role that HMS Victory has played in a long and glorious history.”

The TB Victory timepiece has a distinctive off-centered subdial for the time of day, one of the unmistakable design cues of the Instrument Collection. Central to the cream colored dial is the timepiece’s complication: a central true beat —TB— seconds. A rarely found complication these days, the true beat seconds —or dead beat seconds— stands for superlative accuracy and was an invaluable instrument for marine navigators. The combination of a central true beat seconds with an automatic winding system calls for enormous technical expertise. This is made possible by an internationally patented system and calls for parts accurate to a micron, or one-thousandth of a millimeter. The key components are produced using state-of-the-art LIGA —lithography, electroplating and molding— manufacturing technology. The TB Victory is powered by the A&S6103 calibre, the first automatic movement with an integrated true beat system to be developed, designed and manufactured entirely at Arnold & Son’s workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The exquisite Haute Horlogerie finishing includes manually chamfered bridges and polished edges, fine circular graining and 'Côtes de Genève rayonnantes', a brushed and skeletonised rotor, and blued screws. This unique edition of the TB Victory will be restricted to the single timepiece presented to the National Museum of the Royal Navy.

For more info on Arnold & Son click here.

Technical Specifications of the Arnold & Son TB Victory

Calibre: A&S6103
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, self-winding, ceramic ball bearing, 30 jewels, diameter 30.4 mm, thickness 7.79 mm, power reserve 50 h, 28,800 vibrations/h, stop seconds
Functions: hours, minutes, true beat seconds
Movement decoration: rhodium treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered
bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, brushed and skeletonised rotor, blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads.
Dial: cream, 22-carat solid gold appliqué.
Case: 18-carat rose gold, diameter 44 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back see-through sapphire with the National Museum logo executed in metallic palladium, water-resistant to 30 meters.
Strap: Hand-stitched brown alligator leather.
Special edition: Limited No. 1/1
Reference: 1ARAP.I01A.C120P

News: Presenting the URWERK UR-210Y 'Black Hawk'. A Limited Edition of Only 75 Pieces.

URWERK continues to wow the watch industry with their stunning complications and forward thinking design. After unveiling the fascinating EMC timepiece at the end of August of 2013, this time, URWERK has taken another big step unveiling the UR-210Y Black Hawk. A watch available in a limited edition of only 75 pieces in Titanium and AlTiN-treated steel.

This new timepiece, just like all other URWERK watches is not your run-of-the-mill watch. The UR-210Y tells time through a satellite complication display located at the center of the dial and fitted with wandering hour and retrograde minute indicators. Yhe UR-210Y’s satellite complication with retrograde minute is both highly original and totally explosive. The principal feature is a high-tech, oversized, three-dimensional retrograde minute hand. Its function is to enclose the hour satellite and indicate the time as it transverses the 0-to-60-minute scale. This one-hour journey through time, tracing an arc of 120°, is smooth and fluid. But the true nature of the piece is revealed at the end of the 59th minute. Then a sharp distinct “click” signals the return of the minute hand to its starting point. In less than 0.1 of a second the hand flies back to dock with the next hour satellite. This high-speed retrograde system is based on three key elements. A central axis set in ruby bearings provides excellent stability for the satellite/retrograde complication. A cylindrical marine chronometer type spring runs vertically around the axis and generates the optimal tension required for the retrograde minutes flyback. A minute hand, which also forms a frame for the hour satellites, displays the time in an extraordinary way. Milled from aluminum to exacting tolerances of approximately 3 microns, the whole structure has a total weight of just 0.302 grams and is counter balanced by a brass weight. This three-dimensional cage offers rigidity as it transfers energy from the
cylindrical flyback spring in the top center of the carrousel to the double-star gear underneath. Lastly, a double coaxial star-shaped cam regulates the retrograde mechanism through its gearing and its rotation defines the trajectory of the minute hand. When the minute hand reaches 60, the double star trips a (one of three) hockey-stick shaped spring under the mechanism, which liberates the minute to fly back to the next hour satellite at 0-minutes.

Equipped with a winding efficiency indicator —a world's first— on the left top corner of the dial —11 o'clock position—, the display lets you see if you are active enough to replenish the watch movement with enough energy via its automatic winding rotor, or if the watch is just running on stored energy. The watch also lets you change the winding efficiency of its rotor so that it matches your daily rhythm, and I can even let you switch to manual winding mode if that suits the wearer better. This indicator will measure the winding efficiency over the last two hours. If the wearer's activity has been good enough to replenish the UR-210Y’s energy levels, the efficiency indicator will point emphatically to the green zone. If the wearer has not generated enough energy, the winding efficiency indicator will point to the red zone.

Once the UR-210Y indicates an insufficient supply of energy, the wearer can then position the winding efficiency selector at the back of the watch to “Full” and then the rotor will then convert the slightest movement into stored energy. In this configuration, a turbine connected to the rotor provides smooth, unimpeded power. But if the wearer is more active, then that may provide more power than required and unnecessarily wear the mechanism. In that case, the wearer would position the winding efficiency selector to “Reduced” to engage the rotor damping system. An air turbine compressor mounted on ruby bearings spins and creates internal resistance —enough friction to slow down or dampen the automatic winding rotor. In the “Stop” mode, the automatic winding system is disabled completely and the UR-210Y runs off reserve power and may require manual winding.

Because of its black color, the watch has earned the nickname “Black Hawk”. The massive case measuring 43.8 mm wide, 53.6 mm long and 17.8 mm thick, is made of high-tech titanium and AlTiN-treated steel, which increases its resistance to scratches and acids. The watch is also fitted with an oversized winding crown that takes the center stage as it is the norm on most of the URWERK creations. Additionally, for the first time in the history of an URWERK timepiece, the watch is fitted with a black nylon fabric strap.

The caseback offers a limited view of the URWERK Caliber UR-7.10 fitted with 51 jewels, mono-metallic balance, spring flat balance, turbine equipped self-winding mechanism and which provides a power reserve of 39 hours when fully wound. On the back we also see the winding efficiency selector, as well as a small plate where the limited edition case number is engraved. The watch is waterproof to a depth of 30 meters.

Sticker Price $175,000 USD. For more info URWERK click here.

UR210Y_back.jpg
Posted on February 17, 2014 and filed under News, Urwerk.

News: Officine Panerai Opens its 10th North American Boutique. This Time in Aspen, Colorado.

Last month, Italian watchmaker Officine Panerai announced its U.S. retail expansion by unveiling its largest boutique in North America to date in Aspen, Colorado. The Aspen location is Panerai’s 10th U.S. boutique, and its 63rd worldwide, and displays the high-end sports watch brand’s recent global architectural design concept that showcases the finest elements of Italian style and engineering, as well as highlights the company’s nautical history. Located in the heart of Aspen’s renowned high-end shopping district, Panerai’s new 1,255 square foot boutique is located in a two-storied landmark building with sweeping views of Aspen Mountain and features an expansive sales area, library and VIP lounge for customers to experience the Panerai brand. 

To celebrate the official opening, Panerai will participate as a Presenting Sponsor of the Light It Up Blue Aspen Gala in support of Autism Speaks and Extreme Sports Camp on Sunday, February 16th which will be held at The Hotel Jerome in the ski resort town. For the gala’s live auction, Panerai will donate an Aspen Special Edition Luminor Marina 44mm PAM 00467, #1 of the limited edition series, in brushed steel. This highly-coveted Special Edition timepiece bears a unique engraving on the case back depicting the Rocky Mountains and Aspen Mountain, and will be presented to the highest bidder by Panerai North American President Rafael Alvarez at a private event at the Panerai Boutique the following evening.

In addition to welcoming dignitaries from Autism Speaks and key influencers from the local community, the event will continue with a private cocktail reception on February 17th dedicated to local-area watch enthusiasts who will come together to view Panerai’s latest collection and get to know each other in an Italian-inspired congenial atmosphere. To further support Autism Speaks and its local Aspen-affiliate Extreme Sports Camp, Panerai will donate a percentage of proceeds for sales made throughout the week to the two non-profit organizations. Mr. Alvarez commented, “We’re delighted to participate in Light It Up Blue Aspen, in support of Autism Awareness and we’re grateful to the Aspen community for giving Panerai such a warm welcome this winter season. We look forward to lots more community involvement in the years ahead.”
 
Jill Pidcock, Director of Development for Extreme Sports Camp which is collaborating with Autism Speaks on the Light It Up Blue Aspen events, added “Light It Up Blue Aspen is honored to have Officine Panerai as a Presenting Sponsor for our 3rd annual Gala. Raising awareness and funding for autism is critical in so many lives; we appreciate that Officine Panerai also recognizes the importance of this effort. It is very gratifying to have such wonderful support in our own Aspen area community.”

For more info on Panerai click here.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Ulysse Nardin Presents the Dual Time Manufacture. A Fascinating Dual Time Complication.

The Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture has being released as a pre-Baselworld first look. This timepiece enables the second time zone and date to be adjusted both forward and backward. Like the Marine collection, it is now equipped with a movement that has been developed and manufactured entirely in-house. Never before had a watchmaker so perfectly fulfilled the desire for comfort of frequent travelers and explorers. Part of an iconic Ulysse Nardin collection, the launch of the Dual Time Manufacture was a significant milestone in the history of contemporary watchmaking. For the first time, it was possible to adjust the second time zone forward as well as backward. Now, this incredible timepiece returns equipped with an automatic movement that has been developed, designed and manufactured entirely in-house: caliber UN-334. Endowed with a Big Date double window display, also adjustable in both directions, it boasts a silicon escapement, the height of watchmaking technology that very few brands are able to master. Complex to work with, its manufacturing techniques remain the prerogative of just a handful of watchmakers. The self-winding movement, a technological gem, is showcased through a sapphire case-back.

Independence through innovation: the Ulysse Nardin Manufacture constantly pursues the steep but extraordinarily worthwhile path it chose to take a few years ago. Offering hours, minutes, oversized small seconds at 6 o’clock, a big date double window display and second time zone functions, the Dual Time Manufacture is without doubt one of the easiest watches to read and adjust on the market. While the “home time” indicator advances steadily over 24 hours in an aperture at 9 o’clock, the small hand can easily be aligned with local time, either forward or backward. This is achieved simply by pressing the (+) or (-) pushers positioned at 10 o'clock and 8 o’clock, without having to remove the watch from the wrist or interrupting its timekeeping. The ultimate in mechanical refinement, the calendar function automatically synchronizes with adjustments made in either direction.

Behind this simplicity of use —a true lesson in functionality— the Manufacture caliber UN-334 deploys the results of many years of research. Featuring a 48-hour power reserve, it is equipped with a silicon anchor, escape wheel and roller. The 4 Hz oscillator also has a patented 1.1.1. silicon balance spring, guaranteeing impressive accuracy. Having made its watchmaking début a little over 10 years ago thanks to the pioneering efforts of Ulysse Nardin, this highly contemporary material requires hardly any lubrication and resists wear more than any other.

The bold modernity of this outstanding timepiece is complemented by a few classic touches, for an air of casual elegance. This chameleon-like piece is equally suited to a day in town or an important occasion. Water resistant to 30 m, its completely redesigned 42 mm-diameter case is available in steel or 18 ct rose gold, mounted on a leather strap or a steel or rose gold bracelet with deployment buckle. While ensuring perfect readability, the openwork hour and minute hands that sweep around the black or silver-finish dial add a delicate, light touch that characterizes truly timeless watches. This chameleon-like piece is equally suited to a day in town or an important occasion.

For more info on Ulysse Nardin click here.

News: Panerai Presents the Luminor Sealand Special Edition PAM 847. Honoring the Year of the Horse with a 100 Piece Limited Edition.

Officine Panerai is pleased to present a special edition timepiece dedicated to the Year of the Horse - the PAM 00847 Luminor Sealand – with a 44 mm diameter case. The classic and iconic Luminor case features a hinged cover protector with a horse symbol hand engraved by Italian master craftsmen.  The technique of engraving is particularly painstaking – the grooves are made in the steel by a special tool called a 'sparsello' before being inlaid with threads of gold. The gold is inserted in repeated parallel layers and hammered until it completely fills the engraved outlines, thus defining and filling out the form of the horse. The process of inlaying the gold is carried out only after the cover has been engraved and polished, when even the smallest error could damage the work carried out earlier, so the work demands remarkable skill on the part of the craftsmen.

Few places in the world can pride themselves on a history and richness comparable to Florence. Emblematic of the Italian Renaissance and birthplace of some of the greatest geniuses of all time, Tuscany’s great city has inspired generations of thinkers and artists who have given the world many works of extraordinary beauty throughout the centuries. The excellence of Florence, like that of Italy in general, is always at its best in the combination of genius, craftsmanship, creativity and technical expertise in all forms of artistic expression. The Panerai Bottega in Florence, the first watch shop in the city, is still nourished by this culture, constantly striving towards its mission of balancing tradition and innovation.

This excellence of craftsmanship and Italian know-how is linked with Chinese culture in the Luminor Sealand. Dedicated to the Year of the Horse, the new Special Edition timepiece is limited to just 100 units and is part of the series created by Officine Panerai in honor of the signs of the Chinese Zodiac. The watch is the sixth in the exclusive series, which began in 2009 with the Special Edition created for the year of the Ox, followed by watches commemorating the year of the Tiger, the Rabbit, the Dragon and the Snake. 

The protective conceals the minimalist grey dial which, in the classic Panerai style, features only a small seconds dial and date. This is fitted in a Luminor 44 mm case which, along with the device protecting the winding crown, is made entirely  of brushed AISI 316L stainless steel. The movement is the OP III calibre, hand-wound with a power reserve of 42 hours and C.O.S.C. certified. Available exclusively in Panerai boutiques throughout the world, the Luminor Sealand —PAM00847— is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters and it is supplied with a strap of soft brown leather, a second spare strap and a screwdriver.

For more info on Panerai click here.

Posted on February 4, 2014 and filed under Panerai, News.

Our Best Wishes: Happy Chinese New Year. Seven Fascinating Watches Celebrating the Year of the Horse.

Today, with the first new moon of the calendar year, the Lunar Chinese New Year will begin its 15-day celebration. A 12-year-cycle of animals make up the Chinese zodiac and these interact with the five elements: wood, metal, fire, water, earth. 2014 is the year of the wood horse, taking over from the year of the water snake. In order to commemorate and celebrate the Year of the Horse, several manufactures have released limited edition timepieces. For this occasion, we have picked seven fascinating watches that take the center stage today as the Year of the Horse gets kicked-off.

Let's start with the Vacheron Constantin The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2014 Year of the Horse crafted in 18K pink gold or platinum and limited to 12 pieces each, that will only be sold at the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques. Fitted with a case measuring 40 mm in diameter and an automatic movement, the dial on this watch features a leaf motif, stemming from classic Chinese iconography, and directly engraved in the gold dial. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuated reliefs creating a depth effect. The raised bamboo stalks appear to be floating over the dial. With the horse engraving, on which the details of the mane and coat measure a mere fraction of a millimeter, the artisan provides a tangible expression of the artistic vision behind this creation. Then comes the stage of 'Grand Feu' enameling, a technique invented in Geneva and which remains the exclusive preserve of a rare breed of artisans. By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist further enhances the visual intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial. A final layer of enamel is then applied before a final firing operation that vitrifies the dial and lends a shiny glazed effect that gives added definition to the floral motif. The horse is delicately applied to the center of the dial, poised as if ready to gallop through the sapphire crystal and thus creating a truly striking effect. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

Three exclusive Jaquet Droz timepieces have been created using the exclusive know-how of Jaquet Droz's master craftsmen, specialized in highly complex techniques: engraving, painting and Grand Feu enamel. Two Arab thoroughbreds – considered the most beautiful horses in the world – have been delicately painted on the ivory enamel dial of the Petite Heure Minute 39 mm. Captured in full gallop, they seem to want to catch up with the sculptural mustang that appears on the dial of the Petite Heure Minute 43 mm. Extremely wild and difficult to tame, this horse from the American Northwest —depicted in red gold and engraved in bas-relief— seems to jump out from the black enamel. The champlevé technique, used here for the first time by Jaquet Droz, highlights the movement of the mane and the tail, both filled in with black Grand Feu enamel. The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute 41 mm has been chosen as the showcase to depict a horse rearing up on its hind legs against a backdrop of the Great Wall of China, engraved and patinated by hand on a mother-of-pearl dial. Bold, powerful and elegant, this fearless horse in 18-carat red gold appears to protect the Great Wall, which is also hand engraved on the 22-carat red gold oscillating weight next to the Jaquet Droz signature of two stars. For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.

Lastly, Arnold & Son unveiled the HM Horses Set in honor of the Chinese New Year. The Arnold & Son HM Horses Set is a special limited edition of 28 pairs of watches inspired by the horses depicted in traditional Chinese ink-wash paintings. Adorning each of the two lacquer dials is a hand-finished miniature painting of two horses, one pair black and grey on white, the other white and grey against a black background. Nuances of tone and shading, from jet black to silvery grey, are achieved by the tiny brushstrokes and texturing gradually to build-up the entire image with an astonishing richness of details. The two watches in each pair of this limited edition from Arnold & Son are powered by the hand wound A&S1001 calibre, developed, designed and manufactured entirely at Arnold & Son's workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The classical design is underscored by the slim 40 mm 18-carat rose gold case, which is also available with an optional diamond-set bezel. The simplicity of the black and white lacquered dials, which have just two hands and a minimalist chapter ring consisting of tiny dots, leaves the stage free for the dynamic miniature depiction of two charging horses. The timepieces are each presented with a high-quality black alligator leather strap. For more info on Arnold & Son click here.