We will be reporting via this website and our Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and Tumblr accounts all week straight from Geneva, Switzerland during the week of the SIHH 2014. Flying from London to Geneva via Swiss Air is always a pleasure.
We have settled into our headquarters for the week at the Intercontinental Geneva and we are ready to start our reporting.
Stay tuned for more as we will be posting updates several times a day.
A Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, a new era in the world of Grand Complications
In 1907, Jaeger-LeCoultre laid the foundations of what was to prove a key element in the identity of its watches. That was the year when the association between Paris-based businessman Edmond Jaeger and Swiss watchmaker Jacques-David LeCoultre gave birth to the world’s thinnest pocket watch featuring a blend of aesthetic refinement and horological sophistication that only a Manufacture uniting the full range of skills under one roof could hope to achieve. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre confirms its ability to anticipate the future of Fine Watchmaking by unveiling the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon watch, the eleventh creation in the Hybris Mechanica collection and the first ultra-thin Grand Complication model.
Eleven, the number standing for inventions and exceeding expectations. Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch, a new era – that of ultra-thin Grand Complications.
Think-tanks composed of insatiable visionaries and tireless developers: such is the very nature of the teams at Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. It enables them, just one year after the introduction of the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee, to present an authentic pioneer in the field of Grand Complications. The newcomer bears a name revealing a set of technical feats that are bound to stimulate the imagination of Fine Watchmaking connoisseurs. And rightly so. The Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon stems from research on two iconic horological complications. It is indeed the slimmest minute repeater in its category at just 7.9 mm thin. This watch capitalises on eight separate patents, six of which are entirely new. Its entire development process was governed by two watchwords – ingenuity and performance. Its quintessence lies in a successful bid to achieve extreme slenderness while making no compromises on reliability.
Hybris Mechanica Eleven is equipped with an original tourbillon, a high-performance new balance-spring, a peripheral automatic winding system, a retractable single push button, as well as a new minute repeater equipped with a silent-timelapse reduction system. As the latest addition to an illustrious and fertile saga of Jaeger-LeCoultre striking watches, this model consolidates the brand’s leadership in this field. Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch resolutely confirms that excellence and surpassing existing limits are second nature to Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Contrary to the classic tourbillon with a construction that tends to obstruct the view of certain components, the Manufacture wished to allow complete visibility of the heart of the watch. Avoiding ordinary solutions, Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers have developed and patented an all-new tourbillon. Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch is equipped with a world première in the shape of a flying tourbillon fitted with a flying balance-wheel. This technical feat ensures a full view of both balance-wheel and spring that may both be observed in motion from a radically different perspective. The gaze is captivated by the regular swinging of the balance-wheel, with the balance-spring fixed above it in a highly unusual stage-setting. This expressive and appealing construction also contributes to reducing the overall thickness thanks to the prodigious inventiveness of the master-watchmakers in the Manufacture. These substantial developments required rethinking the regulating organ and developing a new balance-spring specifically hand-crafted in the Complications workshop. All the characteristics of this new tourbillon are geared towards achieving extreme precision, watchmaking’s ultimate goal.
In its absolute quest to optimize components, the Manufacture has conceived and developed an automatic winding system that captivates by its remarkable conception and execution. To provide more space and achieve record-breaking ultra-thin dimensions, the winding is handled by a oscillating peripheral weight with a platinum segment visible through narrow openings on the dial. This platinum segment takes advantage of the wearer’s wrist movements to revolve around the dial and wind the mainspring. It is fitted on a ceramic ball bearing mechanism specially developed for this device. It is also extremely effective and able to move freely in either direction. However only clockwise rotation actually winds the calibre. The sculptural purity of the perfectly integrated high-performance oscillating weight becomes an aesthetic element in its own right, thereby further enhancing the graphic power of the watch.
Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch stems from a new line of approach: a minute repeater movement entirely rethought and rebuilt to be ultra-thin. A minute repeater strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. When there are no quarters to be struck, a lengthy silent timelapse occurs between sounding the hours and the minutes. While there is always such an audible hiatus in the sequence, it is particularly audible when there are no quarters involved. To solve this problem, an innovative system reducing this silent timelapse was developed. It detects the absence of quarters to be struck and thus eliminates the marked pause between striking the hours and minutes. As a result, the appropriate high- and low-pitched notes seamlessly follow their appointed pattern without breaking the tempo. Again as part of an effort to make the watch even slimmer while preserving an extremely pure aesthetic, this minute repeater is activated by a retractable single pushbutton for which the Manufacture has filed a patent. Hybris Mechanica Eleven is equipped with a discreet locking system at 8 o’clock. Actuating it brings out the pushbutton that triggers the minute repeater. Once the minute repeater is activated, the pushbutton returns to its initial recessed position, thus ensuring that nothing disturbs the flowing, elegant appearance of the watch. The discretion, the user-friendliness and the technical feat represented by this retractable push button are not the only advantages of this ingenious innovation. As opposed to the traditional slides used to activate the minute repeater function and for which the length of travel may vary according to the hour to be struck, this construction ensures a constant 2 mm travel distance that is enough to both wind the barrel and trigger the minute repeater.
Issued in a 75-piece limited edition, Hybris Mechanica Eleven is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 362 and has a 45-hour power reserve. It is crafted in ultra-white 18-carat gold and teamed with a high-end alligator leather strap secured by a white gold pin buckle. The impressive complexity of Hybris Mechanica Eleven foreshadows the future presentation of the Hybris Artistica collection – of which the mission is to combine the most technical and creative skills of the artisans within a Manufacture housing 180 different forms of know-how. Jaeger-LeCoultre is more strongly inspired than ever by the intangible heritage of the Maison: the unquenchable thirst to push existing boundaries and to create timepieces in the vanguard of innovation. Driven by such strong convictions, Hybris Mechanica Eleven places Jaeger-LeCoultre firmly at the very pinnacle of ultra-thin horology and Grand Complications.
For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon
Movement: Mechanical automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 362, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 45-hour power reserve, 21,600 vibrations per hour, 471 parts, 4.8 mm thick, 33.3 mm in diameter.
Dial: Silver-toned, grained, Traditional baton-type —transferred.
Hands: Dauphine.
Functions:
Hours, minutes
Minute repeater equipped with silent-timelapse reduction function
Flying tourbillon with flying balance-wheel
Automatic winding via a peripheral oscillating weight
Case: 18-carat extra-white gold, 7.9 mm thick and 41 mm in diameter.
Polished lugs, entirely polished caseband and bezel
Water resistance: 3 bar
Strap: Black high-end Jaeger-LeCoultre alligator leather, white gold high-end pin buckle
Reference: 1313520, 75-piece limited series.
Last night January 14th, 2014, JEANRICHARD honored its brand ambassador, Captain Chesley “Sully” Sullenberger to commemorate the 5th Anniversary of the landing of Flight 1549 on the Hudson River with the launch of the special edition “208 Seconds” Aeroscope watch. The event that took place at a well-known watch store on Madison Avenue in New York City, celebrated how the American hero saved 155 people in only 208 seconds on January 15, 2009.
“We are privileged to have worked with Captain Sullenberger on our new “208 Seconds” Aeroscope”, said Bruno Grande, COO of JEANRICHARD. “The watch showcases the importance of time, Sully’s inspirational achievement in seconds of great urgency, and his efforts since then to continue to help change and improve people’s lives and support organizations such as the American Red Cross and the Rory Staunton Foundation. This is very much in line with JEANRICHARD’s values and philosophy of life. In situations such as those on January 15, 2009, one can only rely upon your training, preparedness and the knowledge that you are serving a cause greater than yourself”, said Captain Sullenberger. “The “208 Seconds” Aeroscope I was able to design with JEANRICHARD also symbolizes the values of personal responsibility and I am grateful for their support of my philanthropic work.”
208 seconds made Captain Sullenberger a hero and the watch's automatic chronograph movement perfectly embodies the spirit and respect that the Captain and JEANRICHARD have for time. The 208 seconds are represented by a subtle marked white and red timeline on the timepiece’s black dial. Available on a black Barenia calfskin strap, the JEANRICHARD “208 Seconds” Aeroscope is a re-interpretation of the old aviators’ watches, and with its titanium cushion-shaped case shares a man’s most enduring dream with style. Part of the proceeds of the watch will go to The American Red Cross and The Rory Staunton Foundation, two of Captain Sullenberger's philanthropic endeavors.
Throughout the event guests also participated in a social media challenge, where they were tasked to take a wrist shot of the new “208 Seconds” Aeroscope and post it to their Instagram account. The “Best Shot” will be re-grammed today, January 15th, through the brand’s Instagram account @JRwatches. The winner will receive a “208 Seconds” Aeroscope watch.
Sticker Price $5,400 USD. For more info on JEANRICHARD click here
1969 was a memorable year for humankind. For the first time, we broke our terrestrial bonds and set foot on another world – and the astronauts who took those first steps on the lunar surface were equipped with Omega Speedmaster Professional chronographs. The same year, Omega introduced the new-look Speedmaster Mark II, a timepiece with a streamlined case that was powered by the same space-tested, hand-wound calibre 861 found inside the Moonwatch. In 2014 Omega has reintroduced this classic Speedmaster Mark II and updated it to include an automatic movement and tachymetric scale that is visible in the most limited light – a first in the iconic Speedmaster family.
The polished and brushed stainless steel case is barrel-shaped and has a polished crown and pushers. A date corrector is located at 10 o’clock on the case. The dial is complete with the three recognisable sub-dials: a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock, 12-hour recorder at 6 o’clock and small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. A flat scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the matt black or grey dial. The transparent tachymetric scale on the sapphire crystal is illuminated from beneath by an aluminium ring filled with Super-Luminova. The varnished white and black hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova as is the central chronograph hand. For Omega fans and Speedmaster fanatics who are looking for an iconic design with a bit of colour, the Speedmaster Mark II with the grey dial features a fluorescent orange central chronograph seconds hand and a matching minute track.
The case is fitted with a brushed stainless steel bracelet, complete with Omega’s patented extendable fold over rack-and-pusher clasp. The watch is presented with a tool that makes adjusting the date quick and easy. Distinguishing the new Speedmaster Mark II from the 1969 watch that inspired it is the Co-Axial calibre 3330, a self-winding movement equipped with an Si14 silicon balance spring and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism. The new Omega Speedmaster Mark II is water resistant to 100 metres / 330 feet and is delivered with a full four-year warranty.
More details coming when we are reporting from Baselworld 2014 at the end of March. For more info on Omega click here.
Following the success and ground breaking technology behind the Génie 01 with barometer, next week in Geneva —taking advantage of the fact that the international press will gather at the SIHH 2014—, Breva Genève will be presenting the new addition to their collection, the Breva Génie 02 Terre.
This new watch combines the stunning sophistication of a beautifully crafted mechanical timepiece with the practicality of a fully functional, high-performance mechanical altimeter. The Génie 02 Terre is a limited edition of 55 pieces in titanium G5 and is available with either meter or feet calibrations on the altimeter.
The superbly finished proprietary movement, much of which can be fully appreciated through the open dial and display case back, was developed exclusively for Breva by award-winning movement constructor Jean-François Mojon from Chronode. Génie 02 Terre is 100% Swiss-made, from inception to realization.
The dial side is dominated by a sub-dial at 8 o'clock displaying hours and minutes, and the precision altimeter sub-dial at 2 o'clock displaying meters or feet. Arching around the top of the dial is the large-scale altitude indicator, which displays up to 5,000 meters —16,400 feet—, with small seconds below. At 4 o'clock, an indicator shows when the air valve is open or closed —it must be open to indicate the altitude—, below which is the 65-hour power reserve indicator. In pride of place at the bottom of the dial, the top of one of the two aneroid capsules measuring air pressure —from which the altitude is derived— is visible, with a high-precision arm multiplying by 200 times the expansion and contraction of the capsules and relaying the air pressure to the two altitude indications.
Three chevron-engraved crowns wind, set, adjust and operate the functions of Génie 02:
a. 9 o'clock: Two-position crown both winds the movement and sets the time.
b. 2 o'clock: A screw down crown rotates both the altitude's precision-scale and large-scale to adjust for variations in air pressure, which affect altitude readings.
c. 4 o'clock: Screw down crown either seals air out of the movement or allows it in —for altitude function. Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture and humidity from any air before it enters the movement. Just above the crown, a white indicator marked 'SEALED' warns when valve is locked.
Turning the Génie 02 Terre over, the complexity of the beautifully finished 415-component movement can be more fully appreciated. The movement is framed by the names of prestigious ski resorts − Aspen, Vail, Las Lenas, Gstaad, St Moritz, Zermatt, Courchevel, Cortina, Kitzbuhel, and Lech − along with their altitudes, engraved around the perimeter of the case back. When winding the movement you can see the rotation of the cap of the mainspring barrel.
We will be reporting from Geneva all next week to bring you all the news from the SIHH 2014 and live images of this amazing timepiece.
For more info on Breva Genève click here.
Arnold & Son unveils a new reference of its iconic Time Pyramid featuring the hand finished A&S1615 calibre treated in NAC grey, housed in a stainless steel case. The A&S1615 movement with unique skeletonized pyramid-shaped architecture, was conceived, designed and developed in-house. The movement A&S1615 seemingly floats between two sapphire crystals, the Time Pyramid is a masterful rendition of technical prowess and unparalleled elegance. This superbly engineered wristwatch is part of the brand’s Instrument Collection that combines instrument precision with classical styling.
Inspired by the regulators created by John and Roger Arnold over two hundred years ago, and by antique British skeleton clocks, the new Arnold & Son Time Pyramid offers a highly cohesive and seductive blend of watchmaking feats that includes regulator, skeleton, vertical linear movement, pyramid-placement of components and multi-dimensional depth.
The skeletonized caliber A&S 1615 follows the original regulators from the brand with its component positioning and detailed 3D visual appeal. Movement parts and watch indications are built on three levels, with the subsidiary seconds dial on the bottom, the hour indications on a sapphire crystal dial in the middle level, and a silver top ring for the minutes indication. While the movement is extremely thin-at just 4.4 mm —the multiple levels bring amazing depth and detail to the watch. To further enhance the balance and symmetry of the Time Pyramid, the crown —with Arnold & Son’s engraved logo— is artfully positioned at six o’clock. The gear train runs vertically in a linear format connecting the two barrels at six o’clock to the balance wheel at twelve o’clock, and endowing the movement with its pyramid structure.The bridges are designed so that all of the wheels, the two main spring barrels, the escapement and balance wheel are all magnificently visible from the dial side.
Additionally, the movement is fitted with two power reserve indicators –one each on either side of the linear gear train –to display the energy level for each barrel separately. The power reserve hands indicate the reserve level via graduated dots —that are printed under the top sapphire crystal— in an arc format, and demonstrate how one barrel transfers energy to the second one when needed. Essentially, as the first barrel winds the second one, the power reserve indicator of the first barrel goes down, while the second one goes up –making for an accurate and intriguing readout. The two mainspring barrels supply the hand-wound caliber with an amazing 90 hours of power reserve, and provide a more constant force to the wheel train. As with every esteemed Arnold & Son watch, the movement of the Time Pyramid is magnificently hand decorated with manually chamfered brides and high-polished edges, Côtes de Genève, circular satin- finished wheels and blued screws, all yielding a striking masterpiece of decorative craftsmanship and brilliant execution.
Each Time Pyramid wristwatch measures 44.6 mm in diameter in its classically elegant stainless steel case. Viewed from the side, the housing is stepped and tapers from top to bottom, the widest section accommodating the extra-large glass with the lower part narrowing to fit snugly on the wrist. Each is finished with an exquisite hand-stitched alligator strap.
For more info on Arnold & Son click here.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE ARNOLD & SON TIME PYRAMID REF. 1TPAS.S01A.C124S
Calibre: A&S 1615 with 27 jewels, manual wound, diameter 37 mm, thickness 4.40mm, power reserve over 90 hours, 21,600 vph.
Dial: sapphire, circular satin-finished dial frame with chamfered and polished edge.
Hands: blued hands with white Super LumiNova.
Case: stainless steel, diameter 44.6mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back see-through sapphire, water-resistant to 30 m.
Strap: hand-stitched black alligator leather.
A steel bracelet for the Chrono Hawk collection. The Chrono Hawk line is now available with a stainless steel bracelet in a design and perfect finish that once again demonstrates Girard-Perregaux’s excellence.
The new bracelet of Girard-Perregaux’s Chrono Hawk line instills power and elegance into this resolutely masculine range. Its links form a pattern of remarkable purity and their lines epitomize contemporary watch design. This aesthetic is matched by equally advanced technical qualities, honing the multiple connections between these steel parts for optimum comfort when wearing. This new bracelet has a distinctive functional geometric style combining two types of links ; the first type generates a powerful line running along the middle, while the second surrounds the first. Subtly interwoven, they also exhibit alternating polished and satin finishes on the two outer bevels of the central links.
The fusion between these two types of links forms a finely balanced and well-proportioned ribbon, making a perfect fit with the strong lines of the Hawk Collection’s watch cases. The bracelet closes easily with a secure folding clasp and features a micro-adjustment system to ensure wearing comfort. Finally, it is interchangeable with the rubber version and can be ordered separately. The Hawk collection honors more than 130 years of technical watchmaking tradition, tracing back to 1880, when the Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds provided specially designed watches for the German Navy. Directly descended from the Sea Hawk line, launched in 1940 and adapted for diving in 1970, and the Laureato, a sport model introduced in 1975, the Chrono Hawk has both sleek and sporty lines. Its asymmetric case formed of successive planes is the mark of its modern character, unparalleled in high-end watchmaking. It is topped by a bezel divided into two parts, one circular and the other octagonal, creating a unique visual effect. The technical dial, perfectly
legible and built on several levels, is decorated with a pattern using the shape of the famous Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Bridge.
In this all-steel version, it is available in two colors: silver as ref. 49970-11-133-11A and metallic blue as ref. 49970-11-431-11A. Inside, the exclusive mechanical self-winding caliber GP03300 displays hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph function.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE CHRONO HAWK STEEL BRACELET
Case in steel
Diameter: 44.00 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal, secured by 6 screws
Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
Girard-Perregaux movement
GP3300-0074 (metallic blue dial)
GP3300-0075 (silver dial)
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 30.00 mm (13 ’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 61
Functions: hour, minute, date, small second, chronograph
Steel bracelet with steel folding buckle micro-adjustable
For more info on Girard-Perregaux click here.
The Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux undeniably owes its incredible destiny to the inventive spirit of its founder, Antoine LeCoultre. Since 1833, every watch bearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature is crafted with the same passion, guided by a constant quest for technical enhancement. Each masterpiece, heir to over 180 years of expertise, benefits from state-of-the-art research. A fresh interpretation of the revolutionary Dual-Wing movement, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time watch in pink gold reflects the technical breakthroughs achieved by the Manufacture in the field of world-time watches and offers original solutions for travelers with a love of Fine Watchmaking.
The Duomètre Unique Travel Time is the first world-time watch enabling to-the-minute adjustment of the second time zone. This enables travelers to accurately set the second time zone on all continents and countries regardless of the time difference. In keeping with the technical and aesthetic spirit of the creations by the Duomètre line signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time watch reveals the various facets of horological excellence by the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. Past, present and future converge in perfect harmony in this exceptional creation.
For this movement, the Dual-Wing system is divided into two distinct mechanisms: the first is devoted to displaying the local time, and the second to showing that in a second time zone. The two mechanisms share the same regulating organ but each has its own independent source of energy, thereby avoiding the losses due to interaction between the mechanisms. The operation of the dual time-zone display does not in any way influence the running of the watch, a fact that considerably enhances the precision of the watch. Each mechanism has a 50-hour power reserve and, governed by a wish to achieve ideal user-friendliness, the same crown serves to wound both barrels. The timekeeping barrel is wound by a counter-clockwise rotation, and the travel-time barrel by a clockwise rotation.
Given the complexity of the functions, the finely grained dial provides impeccable clarity. Two magnificent symmetrically arranged sub-dials lend a perfectly balanced touch to this horological creation: the first sub-dial at 2 o’clock sets the stage for the hour and minute hand; while the second at 10 o’clock hosts the jumping hour and minutes of the travel time. The globe at 6 o’clock displays a world map surrounded by the time-zone indications and the day/night ring. The globe is synchronized with the travel time. The single crown is used to adjust the local time in position two and the travel time in position one, and, as well as to wind the mainsprings when in position zero. Once both time zones are synchronized, the traveler can simply use the push-pieces at 8 and 10 o’clock to adjust the jumping hours in the left sub-dial according to the destination, and in case of a non-standard time zone, the minutes can be adjusted separately using the crown in position one.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383, a remarkably beautiful and exquisitely finished movement is revealed through the sapphire crystal caseback. Its bridges and gear trains are hand-chamfered and feature polished sinks. The moving parts, also hand-chamfered or adorned with polished sinks, are graced with a snailed or smoothed finish. These decorative touches are clearly inspired by the grand tradition of the brand’s pocket-watches and lay new milestones through their exceptionally refined finishing. The engraved names of the cities corresponding to the world’s 24 time zones are also visible through the back.
A worthy heir to the Duomètre line, the pink gold Duomètre Unique Travel Time is a celebration of technical and precious Fine Watchmaking, vividly illustrating over 180 years of history while prefiguring the watchmaking of tomorrow.
Technical Specifications of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time:
Movement: New mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 50-hour power reserve for each of the two barrels, 498 parts, 54 jewels, 7.25 mm thick, 34.30 mm in diameter, 28'800 vibrations per hour.
Dial: Grained, silver-toned
Hands: Leaf-type
Functions: Hours, minutes —Home time—, Hour —jumping; 2nd time-zone display—, minutes and world map indication of the two power reserves
Case: Pink gold, 13.65 mm thick, 42 mm in diameter, Polished lugs and satin-brushed caseband.
Water resistance: 5o meters.
Strap: Alligator leather, pink gold pin buckle.
Reference: Q6062520
For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
Corum opens new boutique in Paris' 8th arrondissement on Rue Pierre Charron. The new flagship store is located in the heart of the Golden Triangle, a high luxury area on the right bank of Paris and offering the finest showcase to celebrate the end of the year.
Corum continues to strengthen its direct distribution by launching an exclusive new boutique in the heart of the French capital. It is in collaboration with Kronometry 1999 that the brand with a key “unlocked” this prestigious space entirely dedicated to the universe of the La Chaux-de-Fonds Maison.
Nestled in a historical building, embellished by the charm of ashlar stones, the store is dressed in accordance with the codes of the brand: the purity of the white intersecting with the character of the ebony softwood. Adorned with premium materials, the boutique will receive the iconic collections of the brand, Admiral's Cup and Corum Bridges, plus a few timepieces of its legendary Heritage collection.
This Haute Horlogerie store will offer not only a collection of exclusive timepieces, but also serve as a showcase for the history, know-how and brand philosophy.
For more info on Corum click here.
In celebration of the new Audemars Piguet Doha Boutique opening in Qatar, Audemars Piguet is delighted to unveil a very special version of its Royal Oak Offshore sports watch in the form of a limited edition model specifically designed to honor Qatar and only available at Audemars Piguet Doha Boutique. This new watch features a titanium case measuring the traditional 42 mm in diameter of the Royal Oak Offshore and is fitted with black ceramic bezel. Beyond that, this particular version of the Royal Oak Offshore becomes even more special than most because each of the 100 examples of this limited edition features a satin-brushed, slate grey dial with contrasting anthracite counters for recording elapsed times of 60 seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours. The luminescent Arabic numerals and main hour and minute hands are satin-brushed, and two of the chronograph indicators and the central seconds hand are lacquered in a vibrant red.
Another small, red detail found at the five o'clock position on the tachymeter scale further identifies this particular version of the Royal Oak Offshore. Turning the watch over, meanwhile, reveals Audemars Piguet's characteristic winding rotor through a sapphire crystal display back surrounded by a titanium border.
Each watch will be delivered on a grey alligator strap designed to complement its unique dial design and will be supplied in a special presentation box.
For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
Technical Specifications of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Doha Boutique Limited Edition ref. 26219IO.OO.D005CR.01
Selfwinding Manufacture calibre 3126/3840
Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Titanium case, black ceramic bezel, titanium caseback, numbered XXX/100, black rubber pushpieces and screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 100 m, diameter 42 mm.
Satin-brushed slate-grey dial, anthracite counters, satin-brushed Arabic numerals, hands with luminescent coating, center seconds hand and hands of the counters at 9 o’clock and 6 o’clock painted in red. “Audemars Piguet” printed in white at 3 o’clock. “SWISS MADE” printed in white at 6 o’clock. Anthracite inner bezel with “135” printed in red.
Hand-stitched “large square scale” grey alligator strap with titanium AP folding clasp.
Limited Edition of 100 pieces
Réf : 26219IO.OO.D005CR.01
Celebrating Cartier style in Fine Watchmaking is the Maison's creative approach for 2014. Style is a question of elegance and balance. It is the fountain-head of constant research, supported by technical expertise with a drive that redefines and questions watchmaking conventions by reinventing traditional complications such as the perpetual calendar or by transforming the timeless Tank model. Cartier's achievements in Fine Watchmaking are the fruit of a constantly innovative approach at the service of highly distinctive aesthetics. Its past as an inventor and designer has given rise to a style that favors volume and shapes. The same drive can be seen in the Maison's technical concepts: their freedom and importance have enabled Cartier to revolutionize the representation of time with Fine Watchmaking pieces that adhere to the Manufacture's highest standards. For this 2014 edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, Cartier expresses the excellence of its craftsmanship with the launch of innovative timepieces bearing the Maison's creative seal.
The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is the fruit of a technical and creative ambition that for Cartier consists of bringing together two complications in a daring display. Removed from its strictly horological role, in which it serves as a guarantee of precision and prestige, a tourbillon has been incorporated into a moon phase complication, with each one dependent on the other. The watch owes its name to the stylized portrayal of the globe and the moon represented by a tourbillon. Together, they form a creative and animated world with skeletonized Roman numerals surrounding this dynamic feat of watchmaking. The moon-phase mechanism of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is founded on a creative and complex design that combines a tourbillon, moon phase on demand and a second time zone. The Tourbillon mechanism is a complex complication that falls within the expertise of a limited number of watchmakers. Its main function is to fight against the effects of gravity when the watch is in a vertical position. Because it appears in its original form and exists only when its user wishes it to, the moon phase on the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch reveals a technical creativity that is doubly innovative. By pressing the push-button situated at four o'clock on the side of the case, a panels descends and partially obscures the Tourbillon carriage. The crescent thus formed reproduces exactly the moon's shape in the sky.
The second time zone of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is indicated by a 24-hour disc that was entirely redeveloped by for the calibre 9440 MC due to the sophistication of its disc display. The result of painstaking work, polished lapis lazuli is used for the dial and the moon panel on the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch. The hours and the second time zone are surrounded by a meticulously polished grid in 18-carat white gold. A three-dimensional dial is one of the signature features of the Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection, alongside Roman numerals that are openworked and chamfered by the hand of a master decorator in a manner akin to a skeleton movement. The exceptional finishes of the 9440 MC are all the more remarkable because the semi-skeletonized bridges on the back of the movement are structured in a star shape, echoing this precious timepiece's lunar and terrestrial character on the case back. With the the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch, the Maison Cartier has created a timepiece that displays an exceptional level of creativity and craftsmanship.
Technical Specifications of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon
Case: platinum
Diameter: 47 mm
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Crown: beaded in platinum set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Dial: Lapis lazuli with an 18-carat white gold grid in the form of Roman numerals
Bezel: platinum
Hands: sword-shaped blued-steel
Casing-up diameter: 47 mm
Case thickness: 16.65 mm
Strap: black alligator-skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 bar / 100 feet
Movement: Manufacture mechanical with manual winding, calibre 9440 MC, tourbillon, second time zone, moon phase on demand
Casing-up diameter: 17¼ lines, i.e. 38.8 mm
Total diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 5.65 mm
Number of jewels: 40
Number of parts: 362
Balance: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 3 days
Limited series of 50 numbered pieces.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch transforms the very essence of the perpetual calendar's functioning and appearance. The Maison's idea involves inventing a creative central display that stems from a revolutionary concept. Designed like an amphitheater, with the intention of clarifying the perpetual calendar's indications, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's display is an incredible watchmaking feat. It overcomes numerous readability issues that are specific to the traditional approach to this complication, which requires the juxtaposition of twelve months, seven days, the date and the type of year in a diameter of just a few centimeters. Arranged three-dimensionally in concentric levels, the display of the perpetual calendar's functions is spread over the different levels: the day is indicated on the first. It is followed by the month on the second, which is itself surmounted by the date. Thin windows move along these tiers. The perpetual calendar's final function is indicated by a hand located on the back of watch and shows what type of year it is: a leap year or a normal year.
Consisting of gear trains, the construction of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement is a watchmaking feat that solves all the functional and ergonomic problems connected with this type of complication. It breaks away from the design of traditional perpetual calendars and introduces an alternative that enables any risk of breakage to be anticipated, adjustment errors to be resolved and chronometry to be improved. Partially patented, the gear train system of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's 9459 MC movement replaces the traditional lever and spring mechanisms with a gear train mechanism that substantially limits the risk of breakage when the watch is over-wound at inadvisable times. The traditional design of a perpetual calendar prohibits any manual correction several hours before and after midnight at the risk of breaking the mechanism. The adjustments made using four minuscule push-pieces on the side of the case are impractical and never clearly identified. This operating problem no longer exists with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement thanks to a setting system that uses the crown.
In addition to the traditional setting of the hour and minute, the crown also controls the date and month indicators. This ease of use is further increased by the possibility of correcting the functions both forwards and backwards. Wearers of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch need no longer fear going beyond the current date as this error is easily corrected.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch houses at its heart a flying tourbillon: a complication that is emblematic of the Fine Watchmaking collection. The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch is certified "Poinçon de Genève", in accordance with the new regulations' requirements. The self-winding calibre 9459 MC is assembled and adjusted in the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking workshops located in the heart of Geneva, upstairs from the Cartier boutique on the rue de Rhône. Its finishes were carried out according to the standards of the most prestigious watchmaking certification. Combining watchmaking innovation and technical creativity, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch follows in the footsteps of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur and Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon watches, thus taking its place as a major complication in Cartier's repertoire of watchmaking craftsmanship.
Technical Specifications of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire
Case: platinum
Diameter: 45 mm
Crown: beaded in platinum, set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Dial: silver-colored Bezel: platinum
Hands: sword-shaped blued-steel
Casing-up diameter: 45 mm
Case thickness: 15.1 mm
Strap: black alligator-skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 bar / 100 feet
Movement: Manufacture mechanical with automatic winding, calibre 9459 MC, tourbillon and perpetual calendar with circular display, "Poinçon de Genève" certified timepiece
Casing-up diameter: 14 lines, i.e. 31.38 mm
Total diameter: 32 mm
Thickness: 8.1 mm
Number of jewels: 51
Number of parts: 382
Balance: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 50 hours
Limited series of 100 numbered pieces.
For more info on Cartier click here.
In their bicycle shop in Dayton Ohio, Wilbur and Orville Wright dreamed of wideopen spaces and freedom. These natural-born inventors conceived a first glider that they launched on the Kitty Hawk dunes in North Carolina. At the same time, they built a wind tunnel to study various technical aspects such as the profile of the wings. Constantly perfecting their prototypes, they installed a stabiliser at the front of a second glider, and then a steering rudder at the back of a third that could thus be controlled: a world first in the field of aeronautics! After hundreds of trials, the two brothers decided to move a step forwards by equipping their glider with an engine. Lying face down on the lower wing of the twin-propeller aircraft named “Flyer”, Orville Wright achieved the first powered, heavier-than-air controlled flight in history, on Kitty Hawk beach. The young man covered a distance of 40 metres at a height of 60 centimeters off the ground. The date was December 17th 1903. Representing a major milestone in aviation history the year 1903 now gives its name to a timepiece created by Zenith as a tribute to the Wright brothers: Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903.
Zenith was one of the first watch manufacturers to create flight instruments to equip various aircraft and spaceships manned by the aviation pioneers. Known for their precision and exceptional ability to withstand vibrations, magnetic fields and variations in temperature, the Zenith altimeters, watches, onboard and wristworn chronographs became extremely popular with pilots, who were thus accompanied in their feats by the brand with the guiding star. In just over a century, Louis Blériot, Léon Morane, or more recently Felix Baumgartner, accomplished their destiny and put their name in the history books with a Zenith instrument on their wrist or on their cockpit controls.
Drawing upon these historical roots, the piece features a case made of black DLC-coated titanium that is therefore ultra-light despite its 48mm diameter. The ratcheted crown typical of historical aviator watches ensures a perfect grip even with pilot’s gloves. The five-time sandblasted black dial reproduces the generous original Arabic numerals ensuring perfect readability day or night. The luminous glow of these delightfully vintage figures stems from a first “old radium” treatment covered with a more classic superluminova treatment. The effect is fascinating and the resulting appearance truly unique, since this ingenious combination creates a creamy shade enlivened by tiny retro accents that cannot be identically reproduced from one watch to the next. Each dial thus becomes unique and further heightens the exclusive character of the 1903-piece limited edition, of which the individual number appears on a special plate screwed to the case band, like an aircraft rivet.
The piece serves as an invitation to travel thanks to a second time-zone indicator powered by the Elite Calibre 693 movement. Finelyadorned with a Côtes de Genève motif even though it remains hidden from sight, it ticks off time at the rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 50-hour power reserve. Beneath this elegant mechanical heart, the case-back, is adorned with a stamped insignia depicting Orville Wright about the “Flyer”, with his brother Wilbur running along Kitty Hawk beach to follow the feat being accomplished on December 17th 1903.
A sturdy wristband crafted in beige suede leather sets the finishing touch to this model. Its lining features a heat-embossed motif in which connoisseurs will note the inscription “Zenith Flying Instruments” as well as the brand’s historical logo, thus underlining the spirit of an era in which the skies were still waiting to be conquered.
Sticker Price TBC For more info on Zenith click here.
Technical Specifications of the Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740
MOVEMENT
Elite 693, automatic
Calibre: 11 ½ ‘‘‘ (Diameter: 25.6 mm)
Thickness: 3.94 mm
Components: 186
Jewels: 26
Frequency: 28,800 VpH – (4 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the center
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
24-hour second time-zone indicator
CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: Titanium case with DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating
Diameter: 48 mm
Diameter opening: 40 mm
Thickness: 15.80 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Zenith Flying Instruments logo
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Matte black
Hour-markers: SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium
Hands: Black ruthenium, satin-finished with
SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium
REFERENCE
96.2431.693/ 21.C740
Vintage-effect nubuck heat-embossed with “Zenith Flying Instruments” logo
Steel pin buckle with black DLC coating
Today on the first day of the New Year 2014, we want to wish everyone health, love, happiness and wealth for the new year that just started. We would also like to thank you for your undivided support last year and may all your dreams come true this year.
Meanwhile —as we get ready to go back to our usual schedule and publishing frequency tomorrow—, enjoy this image of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee ref. 5036420.
Happy New Year 2014!!!!
As we wrap up the year and we say goodbye to the old to welcome the new, here are twelve amazing timepieces we reviewed this year to celebrate each month of the year. These 24 images tell a story and capture the best of these fascinating watches. If you want to check the full review for each timepiece, just click on the watch's name.
While there are many more amazing timepieces that we reviewed or that were presented in 2013, we feel that these timepieces are some of our favorites and all of them are great examples of fine horology.
May the new year bring you and your families lots of health, love, happiness and wealth to buy more watches!!! Happy New Year 2014 from Watch Collecting Lifestyle!!!.
Now, enjoy.
During the short but exciting existence of our blog —only nine months live— we've come to realize how fulfilling it is to have such a large following in such a short period of time. Our watch blog was launched on April 1st, 2013 and so far it has been a very exciting adventure.
We would like to thank our contributors, the manufactures that have allowed us review their collections, but foremost, we thank each and everyone of you that come read our content on a daily basis or a few times a week. To all those of you that have stumbled upon our blog while searching for that next grail or that special watch that you just have to have, we thank you deeply for bookmarking our site and becoming regulars.
As we approach the end of the year, looking forward to our new watch adventures that will kick-off at the SIHH 2014 in Geneva, we would like to do a quick recap of our first nine months with a photo essay that will show you why watch collecting is our passion and why we love what we do for you.
Now, click on the gallery below and enjoy the ride as much as we had so far.
In 2014, Jaquet Droz will be launching three new Ateliers d’Art models that pay tribute to the sign of the Horse. The horse has been a key part of Man's history since the beginning of time. In 2014, China will mark the arrival of a new year with this sign, the seventh in the Chinese zodiac, which is celebrated by Jaquet Droz every year. It is a way of remembering the connection between the brand's founder —the first watchmaker to walk through the gates of the Forbidden City— and the Middle Kingdom. The brand thus continues its annual tradition by honoring this trusty companion and symbol of loyalty, creativity and daring in its Ateliers d'Art series. Three exclusive models have been created using the exclusive know-how of Jaquet Droz's master craftsmen, specialized in highly complex techniques: engraving, painting and Grand Feu enamel. Two Arab thoroughbreds – considered the most beautiful horses in the world – have been delicately painted on the ivory enamel dial of the Petite Heure Minute 39 mm.
Captured in full gallop, they seem to want to catch up with the sculptural mustang that appears on the dial of the Petite Heure Minute 43 mm. Extremely wild and difficult to tame, this horse from the American Northwest —depicted in red gold and engraved in bas-relief— seems to jump out from the black enamel. The champlevé technique, used here for the first time by Jaquet Droz, highlights the movement of the mane and the tail, both filled in with black Grand Feu enamel.
On each of these models, a horse's head is also represented on the back of the white gold oscillating weight.
The dial of the Petite Heure Minute 41 mm has been chosen as the showcase to depict a horse rearing up on its hind legs against a backdrop of the Great Wall of China, engraved and patinated by hand on a mother-of-pearl dial. Bold, powerful and elegant, this fearless horse in 18-carat red gold appears to protect the Great Wall, which is also hand engraved on the 22-carat red gold oscillating weight next to the Jaquet Droz signature of two stars.
Loyal to its spirit of exclusivity, Jaquet Droz is offering each of these new models in a limited edition of 88 pieces with a red gold case and available on a brown or black alligator leather strap. An opportunity to celebrate all the promises of the new year with constant refinement.
For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.
Neither entirely a movement nor exactly a case – or rather both at once: introducing the Altiplano 38mm 900P, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. Merging the hand-wound calibre with the case elements, it is designed as a single entity in order to achieve record-breaking slenderness at just 3.65 mm thin. Representing a crowning achievement in over half a century of virtuoso skills displayed in the realm of ultra-thin watchmaking where Piaget reigns supreme, it conveys the excellence of the two integrated Manufactures run by the Maison. Places where the skills of the watchmakers, case constructors and designers converge in giving life to this masterpiece of reliability and precision.
2014 is a vintage year for Piaget! The Maison is celebrating its 140th anniversary and marks the occasion by launching a model that is set to defy the conventions of ultra-thin Fine Watchmaking for many years to come: the Altiplano 38 mm 900P. While clearly geared towards cutting-edge innovation, it is also a nod to history, since it gets the 900P part of its name from Calibre 9P, which was the first ultra-thin hand-wound movement made by Piaget in 1957. That particular mechanism measured just 2 mm thin and sealed Piaget’s destiny in the field of ultra-thin horology. By 1960, Piaget was ready to set a first record with its Calibre 12P, the world’s thinnest automatic movement at just 2.3 mm. The following years witnessed a spate of new slimness records in the fields of hand-wound and automatic models, with or without horological complications – like Calibre 600P, the world’s thinnest hand-wound shaped tourbillon movement; and 1208P, an automatic movement that was also the thinnest in its category, to mention just a couple of these feats. Constantly reaffirming its unconditional love of slim mechanisms, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget has produced no less than 23 ultra-thin calibres out of the 35 movements developed and produced in-house, of which 12 have set new records for thinness over the past few years and are now part of the collection.
While the Altiplano 38 mm 900P merges the case and movement to establish itself as the thinnest mechanical watch ever, it also stems from another fusion without which such a feat would have been impossible: that of the two Manufactures Piaget – one based in La Côte aux Fées, where the movements are traditionally made; and the other in Plan-les-Ouates, where the cases are crafted. These skills are now inextricably intermingled, since within the Altiplano 38mm 900P, the mechanism and the external components form a single indivisible entity. For a full three years, watchmakers, case constructors and designers worked together at each stage of development, production, adjustment and finishing in order to give life to this slender marvel. Each technical choice had an aesthetic impact, and vice versa. While each of the 145 parts composing the Altiplano 38 mm 900P has been trimmed to a size sometimes barely thicker than a hair’s breadth –including some wheels measuring a mere 0.12 mm thin compared with 0.20 mm on a classic movement– special care has been devoted to clearances. In other words, the process involved cleverly arranging the components to within the nearest hundredth of a millimetre so as to create optimal play between the fixed and mobile organs, while being careful to ensure that the later move freely and thus guarantee the smooth running of the mechanism.
Nonetheless, the true secret of this extreme slenderness lies in the structure of the case itself, of which the back also serves as the mainplate. Thereby merging calibre and case, the latter was machined directly from the case back in order to house the mechanical parts. This highly complex architecture meant reversing movement construction so as to fit the bridges on the dial side —an approach that also has an aesthetic effect by keeping them visible. To save another precious few millimetres, the entire mechanism and the hand-fitting system are contained within the thickness of the balance-wheel itself, thus entailing an off-centered display of the hours and minutes entirely in tune with the iconic design features of the Altiplano line. These characteristics are further enhanced by the entirely visible wheeltrain that invites the owner of the watch to plunge into the very heart of this supremely slender and technically sophisticated mechanism. Working within this extremely confined space, Piaget has devised a suspended barrel hanging from a single bridge on the dial side, contrary to classic barrels that are also fixed to the mainplate side. This highly unusual device is no way detrimental to the performance of the mechanism, since the Altiplano 38 mm 900P has a generous power reserve of around 48 hours.
When a watch is subjected to strong pressure, such as when immersed in water, its glass or crystal is slightly deformed. While this physical phenomenon goes relatively unnoticed on a classic timepiece, the same is certainly not true of an ultra-thin watch. Given the extremely confined space available, the glass would be liable to press on the hands when deformed, thus causing the movement to stop. To avoid this challenge to any ultra-thin model, Piaget has come up with a revolutionary device —patent pending— representing a major breakthrough in ensuring the reliability of this type of watch. Instead of fitting the hands above the bridges, Piaget has placed them underneath, thereby freeing up space between the cannon-pinion and the crystal. When the latter is deformed by the effects of pressure, it presses not on the hands – placed below the bridge level – but instead on the wheel-train bridge, thus avoiding any consequences on the rate of the movement. While for Piaget, the extreme slimming down of the parts in an ultra-thin watch must in no way compromise its reliability, the same goes for the level of finishing. The Altiplano 38 mm 900P is no
exception to the rule. Even though some of its 145 parts remain hidden from sight, all of them have been meticulously finished in keeping with the noblest horological traditions, through countless hours of patient work rendered even trickier by the extraordinary slenderness of the components. The mainplate carved out of the watch case-back has been satin-brushed and sandblasted, while the wheels are alternately sunburst or circular satin-brushed. Hollowed so as to reveal the subtle mechanical
intricacies at the heart of the Altiplano 38 mm 900P, the bevelled and satin-brushed sunburst bridges are black-coated to create elegant contrasts with the white gold case. The index-assembly bearing the Piaget “P” strikes a resounding signature note within this subtly orchestrated Fine Watchmaking symphony.
Sticker Price TBC. For more info on Piaget click here.
Technical Specifications
Piaget Altiplano 900P
Case Diameter: 38 mm. Thinnest ever mechanical in 18K white gold.
Calibre and case merge to form a seamless whole with a black-coated movement
Strap: Black alligator leather strap with 18K white gold pin buckle
Power reserve: approx. 48 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph /3 Hz
Thickness: 3.65 mm (case + movement)
Number of jewels: 20
Number of components: 145 (case + movement)
Over the years, the Reverso has appeared in a number of different guises and been enriched with various unusual sizes and new horological complications – all the while remaining loyal to the spirit of the watch with two faces. On the occasion of the 80th anniversary of this timepiece that has become a cult object, Jaeger-LeCoultre chose to return to the very origins of a legend by presenting the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931, directly inspired by the aesthetic codes of the historical model. This creation, distinguished by an ultra-thin case, contemporary dimensions and remarkably faithfulness to the original, was enthusiastically received by devotees of the Reverso and by watch connoisseurs who expressed the wish that this vintage edition should not remain a one-off model. In response to their desires, the Manufacture already introduced the Grande Reverso Rouge with a deep red dial in 2012, followed the next year by the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Blue. For 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the third member of this splendid trilogy: the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 with a chocolate-toned dial.
The new model, entirely in keeping with its historical ascendance, vividly evokes the finest hours of Art Deco. Its shapes, its color and its materials are the ultimate expression of a movement that heralded the inception of industrial design while favoring hand craftsmanship executed to perfection. Entranced by this delightful color palette, the eye naturally lingers on the pleasing contrasts between the glowing chocolate shade of the watch face and the pink gold of the case, including the traditional gadroons framing the dial. This irresistible association is further underscored by the judicious reinterpretation of the aesthetic principles governing the original. Apart from the 12 o’clock numeral, the hours are shown by baton-shaped hour-markers, while the hour and minute hands feature a dagger-type profile. The small seconds at 6 o’clock perform a once a minute rotation on the dedicated rectangular subdial. This picture of pure, restrained refinement would not be complete without a mention of the “REVERSO” inscription exactly reproducing that appearing on the historical model. Everything might seem to have been said, and yet it is only now that the distinctive emotional ties uniting an owner and his Reverso can begin to be woven.
The usual chestnut brown alligator leather strap with pink gold pin buckle is just one of the options proposed by the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux for securing the Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 to the wrist. Polo players, who have been wild about the Reverso for over 80 years, are no less demanding when it comes to choosing the pair of boots they will wear to compete in various prestigious tournaments. They show no hesitation in confidently striding through the doors of Casa Fagliano, established since 1892 in the worldwide polo capital, Buenos Aires. For well over a century, the Fagliano family has been dedicated to a single craft of which it masters all the mysteries and intricacies: fine leather work. The descendants of the company founder continue to share the many duties involved in an authentic family-style division of labor. Their creations are keenly sought-after by the best polo players who simply could not imagine playing a match without their favorite boots. For the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, Casa Fagliano has agreed to produce hand-crafted straps in successive stages following the strict principles of time-honored tradition in working with cordovan leather, which is renowned for its exceptional resistance. Delivered along with each watch, the strap made in the Casa Fagliano workshops is distinguished by its elegant suppleness and hand-made mode of production that makes it truly one of a kind. The Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre is proud of this partnership that further strengthens the ties between polo and the Reverso. Over eight decades since its birth, aesthetes will be more delighted than ever to welcome the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931, which combines passion and prodigious expertise with the legendary quality characterizing all timepieces bearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature.
For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
Technical Specifications
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 Chocolate Dial ref. Q2782560.
Movement: Mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822/2, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 21,600 vph, 19 jewels, thickness of 2.95 mm, 45-hour power reserve.
Dial: Chocolate dial with powdered numerals and hour-markers.
Hands: Baton-type, faceted, gold plated
Case: 18-carat pink gold with a height of 46.8 mm, a width of 27.4 mm and a thickness of 7.3 mm with a polished finish.
Water-resistant: 3 bars/30 meters.
Straps and buckle: Matte brown alligator leather 20/18 and 2nd strap in cordovan leather, crafted by “Casa Fagliano” of Buenos Aires fitted with a pin buckle in 18 carat pink gold.
Pre SIHH 2014, A. Lange & Söhne unveils the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase that gives the exactly calculated to 122.6 years moon phase display a shiny appearance on the dial. A patented method of coating the moon's disk gives this astronomical complication a highly detailed appearance. The moon is a fascinating celestial body. It determines not only the tides, but also affects the rhythm of life of many creatures and plants. A moon phase display is therefore highly appreciated by many watch lovers.
Since its relaunch, the Saxon manufacture has presented twelve models with such a complication. However, never before the moon phase display has been so prominent as it is in the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase. The popular astronomical display received a large stage on the dial. You can now clearly see how the moon phase display follows the actual phases of the moon in a remarkably realistic manner because it is linked to the continuum of the hour. Thus, it is — just like the moon itself— always on the move and in such small steps that you cannot detect this movement with the naked eye.
In addition, the moon phase indicator represents the time from new moon to new moon with an accuracy of 99.9978 percent. 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds , the average synod lunar months. For simplicity, the cycle is therefore rounded in most classical moon phase displays to 29.5 days. This leads per cycle to a deviation of 44 minutes and 3 seconds, which adds up after two and a half years to one day. The much more accurately calculated seven-gear on the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase reduces the deviation per lunar cycle to less than a minute. Once set up properly, you would have to correct the display by one day after 122.6 years. With a corrector pushpiece between 7 and 8 o'clock on the case band, the display can be adjusted. The solid gold moon disc testifies the perfection claim of the Lange product developers. The result of extensive research and development work is a patented coating process that through an unparalleled color brilliance and sharpness of all the details meets the highest aesthetic standards. Due to interference effects —the superposition of reflections— all non-blue color components of the incoming daylight are absorbed. So is in the eye of the beholder an intensely blue color impression. The more than 300 stars of different size are cut so sharply drawn with a laser that they act like a miniaturized representation of the Milky Way .
With the combination of decentralized dial design, large date and technically advanced caliber, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase bears all the marks of the most famous family of watches from A. Lange & Söhne. The calibre with an impressive power reserve of 72 hours is only 4.7 mm thick thanks to the use of only one barrel. The case, available in yellow gold, rose gold or platinum has a diameter of 41.0 mm. With a balance spring developed and manufactured in-house, a three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver and intricately hand decorated parts, the Lange calibre L095.3 features all the classic elements of the timepieces from this manufacture.
For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.
Press Release
Two of the world’s foremost design pioneers, Sir Jonathan Ive, KBE, and Marc Newson, CBE, have collaborated with musician and philanthropist Bono to organize a (RED) Auction celebrating the very best of design and innovation. Proceeds from the November 23, 2013 sale at Sotheby’s New York will benefit The Global Fund to fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria. The auction featured icons of design selected by Sir Jonathan Ive and Marc Newson and works that were personally customized by the pair:
The custom Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos 561 clock with unique red accents created for the (RED) Auction and estimated at $20,000-30,000 USD resulted in $425,000 USD.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Tribute to Deep Sea watch which has been customized with a unique red dial and the (RED) logo engraved on the back of the watch, estimated at $10,000-15,000 USD, sold for $365,000 USD.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s two unique pieces raised $790,000 USD at (RED) Auction, while the auction raised $12,883,000 USD to fight against AIDS in Africa.
For more info on RED click here and on Jaeger-LeCoultre here.
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