One of the big stars of Watches & Wonders 2024 is the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Platine in a 50-piece limited edition. Equipped with a platinum 42.5 mm case, crown, dial, clasp, and strap stitching —silk and platinum thread— also in platinum, this watch is one of those that takes your breath away. Combining two complications, a tourbillon, and a mono-pusher chronograph, the perfectly legible dial features a large tourbillon aperture at 12 o'clock, while the 45-minute chronograph counter is positioned at 3 o'clock and the power reserve indicator at 6 o'clock. The chronograph functions are displayed by a blued steel seconds hand, a minutes hand, and a power reserve pointer in 18K gold. The hours and minutes hands are in 18K white gold, sweeping over a minutes track punctuated by applied hour-markers in the same metal.
Retaining distinctive features of the Traditionnelle collection with dauphine-type hands, railway-type minutes track, and stepped case with fluted case back, all the main elements of the watch, apart from the movement and strap, are in .950 platinum.
On the dial side, the tourbillon with its Maltese cross-shaped carriage is positioned at 12 o'clock, contrasting with the usual lower-dial position for this type of regulator. Another original attribute is the 45-minute chronograph counter appearing at 3 o'clock, while the 65-hour power reserve is displayed at 6 o'clock. While maintaining the central position of the time-only hours and minutes hands, the brand developed a new peripheral drive system for the tourbillon carriage.
This thinner construction enables the main plate to be open-worked to provide a spectacular view of the tourbillon. The extremely legible minutes track on the periphery bears fifth-of-a-second graduations corresponding to the level of accuracy enabled by the regulator. To calculate the speed in km/h over the first elapsed minute of the chronograph function, the minutes’ track is rimmed by a Base 1000 tachymeter scale on the flange.
The Movement
Turning the watch over reveals the beauty of the in-house calibre 3200 developed for the Maison’s 260th anniversary in 2015. At just 6.7 mm thick, this 292-part in-house manual wound movement is remarkably slim for such a complex timepiece. Therefore, the case is only 11.7 mm thick.
Its tourbillon regulator and mono-pusher chronograph function stem from extensive research and one can admire its column wheel adorned with a Maltese cross, its lateral friction clutch, and its two hammers for zero-resetting the chronograph hands, as well as the peripheral tourbillon drive. Operating at the fairly sedate pace of 18,000 vph —2.5 Hz—, the regulator honors the mechanical ballet of the tourbillon bearing the small seconds indication.
Equipped with a column wheel to control the functions, Vacheron Constantin has developed a friction-drive lateral clutch system. Thanks to this system that avoids any stuttering, the seconds’ hand engages smoothly when the chronograph is started. The chronograph is also equipped with a dynamic "all-or-nothing" activation system that prevents the seconds’ hand from starting when too little pressure is applied to the pusher. This movement provides a power reserve of 65 hours.
On the Wrist & Price
On the wrist, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Platine wears remarkably nice with incredible wrist presence. Platinum Vacheron Constantin watches are esteemed for their exquisite craftsmanship. Crafted from the rare and precious metal, these timepieces exude a sense of sophistication and elegance that is synonymous with Vacheron Constantin. The lustrous sheen of platinum enhances the aesthetics of the watch, making it truly exceptional and highly coveted by discerning collectors.
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