When the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watches with gold-toned or burgundy lacquer dials were released at the end of August, we knew we had to work on separate hands-on reviews for both watches. Well, here we are, bringing you the review of the burgundy lacquer dial 18K white gold Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V/220G-H151. Cased in a 41.5 mm 18K white gold case with a striking burgundy lacquer dial, we can confidently say this is one of the hottest releases from Vacheron Constantin within the Overseas collection in the last three years.
The Star of the Show: The Burgundy Dial
Undoubtedly, this is one of the most photogenic dials out there, and the burgundy lacquer dial is not only stunning in person but also a chameleon that varies in hue depending on the lighting conditions. Under direct light, it reveals a deep, wine-like richness with subtle variations in tone across the lacquered surface. The translucent quality means it shifts from almost oxblood in shadow to a lighter, more vibrant burgundy in bright conditions, and that’s when the dial becomes alive. Against the cool white gold case, this creates a visual contrast that's sophisticated rather than showy—a difficult balance to strike.
The dial layout itself is remarkably legible for a perpetual calendar. The white transfers, the snailed subdials, and the light blue accents for the minute track and the months within the leap-year indication work remarkably well against the burdungy background. Everything remains readable at a glance, which isn't always the case with darker dials or perpetual calendars. And here to make things even better, the moon phase indication with its highly polished finish works remarkably well, adding that bright, captivating touch at 6 o’clock.
The Bracelet and Interchangeable Strap System: True Versatility
The integrated 18K white gold bracelet is a masterpiece. Each half-Maltese cross link flows seamlessly into the next. The bracelet tapers beautifully, and its double-folding deployant clasp is as comfy as it gets. But the real party trick is the interchangeable strap system. Without any tools, you can swap the bracelet for either of the two included rubber straps: one in red—not precisely the same hue as the dial—and another in white.
Changing straps or the bracelet takes about 30 seconds once you get the hang of it. The red rubber strap transforms the watch from a more formal look to a casual-elegant, perfect for weekend wear. Meanwhile, the white rubber strap creates an unexpected sporty vibe that works brilliantly for a Miami trip or even the beach—50 meter water resistance—, far more than the burgundy, regardless of its rubber nature. At the bottom, you will find three different wrist shots showcasing the bracelet and the two rubber options.
The Movement: Thin is Beautiful
Turning the watch over reveals the intricacies of the 36-jewel automatic movement through the sapphire display case back. You can admire the in-house Calibre 1120 QP/1 in all its finished glory. At only 4.05mm thick—yielding an 8.1 total thickness of the watch case—, this movement is a technical tour de force. The 22K oscillating weight features Vacheron Constantin's compass rose motif, which not only looks elegant but also provides smooth, quiet winding.
The 40-hour power reserve is very adequate for daily wear, though weekend warriors who decide to leave the watch off during the weekend—who in their right mind would do that anyway—will need to reset the perpetual calendar when putting it back on the wrist on a Monday—unless you conveniently leave the watch on a watch winder, Rapport London would be our brand of choice.
The finishing of the movement is in line with what you’d expect from the oldest watch manufacture in the world, which just turned 270 years old. The Côtes de Genève decoration, straight-graining, and meticulous chamfering transform what could be purely functional components into miniature works of art.
On the Wrist & Price
On the wrist, the watch’s technical specs tell part of the story—41.5 mm diameter, 8.1 mm thick—but they don't capture how well this watch actually wears. At 8.1 mm thick, this is genuinely svelte for any watch, let alone one housing a perpetual calendar. For context, many time-only dress watches are much thicker. The result is a watch that slides effortlessly under a shirt cuff and sits flat against the wrist without the top-heavy feel that plagues many complicated watches or solid gold timepieces.
The 41.5 mm case diameter hits the sweet spot for modern proportions. The integrated bracelet design means there are no protruding lugs, so the watch wears slightly smaller than the dimensions suggest. On a 7.5-inch wrist, it felt perfectly proportioned—substantial enough to have presence, but not so large as to feel ostentatious.
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin occupies a unique space: refined yet sporty, complicated yet wearable, exclusive yet not ostentatious. And that right there is why the brand has 270 years of uninterrupted history. If you know, you know.
Sticker Price USD 160,000. For more info on Vacheron Constantin, click here.
