Twenty days after its release, we have the pleasure of bringing you our hands-on review of the new Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1R. Following the success of the 5990/1A —one of our favorite Nautilus references—, Patek Philippe decided to launch a new iteration of this reference in 18K rose gold. Even though Patek’s stock images blew our socks off and we knew we would love the watch in person, handling this watch in the metal is a totally different story.
While for the majority —we included—, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R has been perceived as the ‘King of all Nautiluses’, after perusing the new Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph reference 5990/1R we’d like to welcome what we think is now the new King of all Nautiluses. With a 40.5 mm case in 18K rose gold and its striking blue dial, this watch gives the Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R a run for its money. Pairing a blue dial with the warm tones of rose gold creates a perfect combination that is versatile and perfect for wearing the watch in any setting or ocassion.
Things to Know About the Watch
Featuring a chronograph with the Travel Time function that indicates the time in two different time zones at a single glance, its hinged case with two pushers —one to advance the independent travel time hand and the other to back it— on the left side of the case make sure that the travel time functionality wouldn't alter the overall look of the watch. A date corrector is located at the 1 o'clock position near the top right lug in a very discreet way, but with the end-user in mind in order to ease the date setting operation. Two apertures labeled ‘Local’ and ‘Home’ serve as the day/night indicators. The blue dial is a true chameleon depending on the lighting conditions and the subdials appear to be of a lighter hue of blue —even though they are not— at certain angles. A play of light and color that is hard to explain and that captivates the observer when perusing the watch in the metal.
The properly display a second-time zone, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1R has two-hour hands on the same axis. The lower one is skeletonized, and the upper one matches the style of the minute hand. The skeleton hand displays the home time while the solid hour hand indicates local time. At home, where both times are identical, the two hands are superposed. When the owner moves to another time zone, the hour hand for 'local' time —travel time— can be adjusted in one-hour steps with the pushers on the left caseband. On eastbound trips toward the sun, the local-time hand must be adjusted counterclockwise and incremented in the opposite direction when traveling westbound. The skeleton hour hand is not affected by such corrections and continues to display 'home time'.
Equipped with a screw-down crown, the reference 5990/1R is water-resistant to a depth of 120 meters. While the first set of pushers located on the right side of the case —next to the crown—, activate and reset the chronograph function, the second set of pushers on the left caseband operate the travel time functionality.
The bracelet is exquisitely finished with satin brushed outer links and highly polished center links and it now features the new Nautilus double-folding clasp without a safety lock as on the stainless steel model.
The Movement
Turning the watch over reveals the exquisitely finished automatic movement through the display case back. The Nautilus Travel Time Chrono ref. 5990/1R is powered by the automatic calibre CH 28-520 C FUS composed of 370 parts, 34 jewels, Gyromax balance and which provides a power reserve of 55 hours when fully wound, while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.
On the Wrist & Pricing
On the wrist, the 5990/1R wears true to its size, and impeccably. With its stunning blue dial and its 18K rose gold case, to us this is the new King of all Nautiluses. The 5980/1R can die tomorrow and the 5990/1R will forever live in our book. A perfect color combination, a flawlessly executed timepiece, and two complications that we absolutely love, a chronograph and a dual time zone function with a calendar.
Sticker Price $106,450 USD. For more info on Patek Philippe click here.
