At Geneva Watch Days 2022, De Bethune unveils a new 40 mm titanium case in its perpetual calendar collection. The new DB25 Perpetual Calendar features a two-tone silver and blue dial. A classic interpretation of the DB25 with a radiating guilloché pattern adorning 12 sectors, integrated lugs, and a new 40mm titanium case. Originally launched in 2011, the perpetual calendar by De Bethune is tinged with poetry and combines the finesse of watchmaking with the precision mechanics of the Manufacture by associating the most romantic complication —the moon phase and its starry sky— with the most technical complication, the perpetual calendar, within an exceptional timepiece.
The finesse of the decorations, along with the purity of the two-tone hand-guilloché dial featuring a pattern radiating across 12 sectors, accentuate the legibility notably achieved by the assembly of annular blue appliques, with silver-toned raised transfers and Roman numerals, marking off the subdials and the chapter ring. At 12 o'clock, palladium and blued steel sphere are set against a sky dotted with pink gold stars, also incorporating a leap-year indicator in a gold disc. The date can be read on a dial at 6 o'clock, while the apertures displaying the day of the week and the month are respectively located at 9 and 3 o'clock.
The round case of the new DB25sQP retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP but comes in titanium, a material that the Manufacture has increasingly favored in recent years. Its integrated, open-worked, and curved lugs further accentuate the practical and pleasant wearing of this classically inspired watch.
A sapphire case back enables one to admire the full complexity of the movement, which is powered by a titanium and platinum oscillating weight stemming from research by the R&D team, as well as the refinement of its finishes: a three-quarter platinum bridge with sandblasted and hand-colored starry sky decoration; a blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm; a hand-colored white gold oscillating weight; as well as hand-beveled and hand-polished steel parts.
The Movement
As an improved version of the latest calibre DB2324, the new calibre DB2324V2 powering this new perpetual calendar, has been technically adapted to fit inside a 40 mm case, representing a new feat for the Manufacture. Entirely designed and developed by Denis Flageollet's team in the Manufacture's Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix —Swiss Jura—, the automatic calibre DB2324V2 with a 5-day power reserve benefits from De Bethune's research and latest technology, including a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision corresponding to 1 day/122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a triple pare-chute system and a titanium/white gold balance.
This model is equipped with the famous De Bethune balance spring —the small, extremely fine hairspring considered to be the soul of the mechanical watch— for which Manufacture De Bethune has opted to maintain its center of gravity exactly in the center by using a flat curve affixed to the outside of the balance spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. Its many advantages notably include reduced thickness, improved concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the index- assembly system as well as no need for its pins, as the shape of the curve even acts as a shock absorber in case of impacts. The escape wheel is made of silicon for the lightness of the material and also to increase the power of the calibre.
On the Wrist & Price
This new perpetual calendar is fitted with a leather strap secured by a polished titanium buckle and accompanied by a second grey fabric strap. Vividly illustrating the technical and aesthetic expertise of the Manufacture, this new Reference DB25sQP marks its entry into the perpetual calendar collection and will be limited to a single production run of 15 units per year.
Sticker Price $145,000 USD. For more info on De Bethune click here.
