While attending Baselworld 2016, we were asked many times by friends, other journalists, watch collectors and even by some of the representatives of the brands, what were the watches we have liked the most during the show. While is really difficult to come up with the right answer after reviewing close to a hundred different watches in less than a week, one watch that we can't stop thinking about and that we'll have to include in the list of our ten favorite watches at Baselworld 2016 is the new Breguet Type XXI Flyback Chronograph ref. 3817ST/X2/3ZU.
A watch that clearly takes its inspiration from the unique piece in platinum that Breguet created for the ONLY Watch Auction in 2015 that we brought you here, the new Breguet Type XXI Flyback Chronograph ref. 3817 is equipped with the special flyback function featured on the original 1950s model and the ref. 3810 Transatlantique as reviewed by us here and that this time it only got better with a striking 'ecru' vintage looking superluminova on its numerals and hands. In terms of looks, the only noticeable difference between this piece and its platinum unique piece ref. 3813 sibling, is that the latter features a white calendar wheel, while the new ref. 3817 from Baselworld 2016 comes with a slate grey wheel matching the color of the dial.
Fitted with a 42 mm case with fluted caseband, a matte slate grey dial and a bi-directional rotating bezel, this new watch is simply perfect. The matte slate grey dial, only seen before in the exclusive execution for Only Watch, bears stylized Arabic numerals composed of a white transferred base coated with superluminova with a vintage looking color. The new sporty and sophisticated Breguet Type XXI Flyback Chronograph ref. 3817 from Baselworld 2016 proves itself entirely worthy of its proud lineage: it is a concentrated blend of technical refinement in a reaffirmed vintage style clearly reflecting the history and origins of the Type XX line, while its technical characteristics place it firmly in the 21st century.
The dial featuring the characteristic look of the Type XX chronographs since 1954, includes the chronograph minutes registered by the central long hand along with its seconds counterpart, a 12-hour chrono register and date aperture at 6 o’clock, a day/night indicator at 3 and a small running seconds subdial at 9 o'clock.
Equipped with a vintage looking oily calfskin strap, the new Breguet Type XXI Flyback Chronograph ref. 3817 comes with the a deployant buckle similar to the one on the Type XXI Transatlantique ref. 3810. The strap is simply gorgeous and its beige contrast stitching completes the vintage look as it matches the 'ecru' superluminova perfectly.
The watch is water resistant to a 100 meters thanks to its screw-down crown and for the very first time since its inception, the Breguet Type XXI Flyback Chronograph ref. 3817 features a display case back to allow the wearer full visibility of the beautifully decorated calibre with solid 18K yellow gold oscillating weight. The beating heart inside the new Breguet Type XXI Flyback Chronograph ref. 3817 is the automatic in-house Breguet calibre 584Q/1 with 26 jewels. This movement providing a 48-hour power reserve, was just upgraded to feature inverted in-line Swiss lever escapement with silicon pallets and a silicon balance-spring.
On the wrist, the watch wears like a million bucks and simply stunning. Grey dial, check, vintage looking lume, check, sick looking oily strap, check, updated in-house automatic flyback chronograph movement, check. Did we miss anything? This new Breguet Type XXI ref. 3817 is definitely a must have in our book. A perfect execution bringing the best of both worlds for those in love with vintage inspired timepieces.
Sticker Price $13,900 USD. For more info on Breguet click here.