Posts filed under News

News: URWERK Presents the EMC. The First High-End Mechanical Watch with 'Artificial Intelligence'.

Press Release

Today, August 28th, 2013 in Singapore, URWERK presented the EMC, the first high-end mechanical watch with 'artificial intelligence'. A precision timepiece should have at its base a movement that is accurate, reliable and long lasting. Such movement should meet specific criteria including accuracy in 5 positions between -4 seconds and +6 seconds over 24 hours. 

However, while it is one thing to regulate an accurate watch in the controlled world of a workshop, performance in the sometimes-extreme real world, i.e. on the wrist, can be very different. Changes in position and temperature, and shocks, can all adversely affect isochronism —timing regularity— of a wristwatch. The challenge with the EMC was in developing a mechanical watch that can be regulated by its owner to obtain the finest chronometric performance.

EMC is the first precision mechanical watch that enables timing to be both easily monitored and easily adjusted by its owner.

With EMC, not only can the wearer obtain the precise timing rate on demand, they can then use that information to accurately adjust the timing of their watch to suit their own personal rhythm.  Electro Mechanical Control —EMC— is the world's first precision mechanical watch in which the timing can be monitored and adjusted by the user to suit their lifestyle – EMC is fully interactive. Here's a diagram showing how it works:

Please note that EMC is a fully 100% mechanical watch. The electronics have absolutely no effect on the movement; they only enable monitoring of the movement's precision in a similar way that the electronic speedometer or rev counter of a car has no effect on the mechanical engine and gearbox.

EMC features a deconstructed dial with four separate indications: A clockwise tour of the displays, from top left, presents the: on demand, precision indicator —instantaneous rate delta δ— ranging from -20 to + 20 seconds per day; seconds dial with counter-balanced seconds hand; hours and minutes; and 80-hour power reserve indicator. Turning EMC over reveals the fully in-house movement with the integrated circuit board —the EMC 'brain'—, the top of one of the two mainspring barrels near the crown and the top of the balance wheel and optical sensor on the winding handle side.

“Our idea for  EMC goes back almost six years and is a natural continuation of my work as a watchmaker," says Felix Baumgartner, co-founder of URWERK. “Like all watchmakers, I have on my bench a Witschi – an instrument to test the precision of my work. This impartial and uncompromising judge ‘listens’ to the rhythm of the balance and makes a verdict on the performance of the movement by measuring the timing rate, the number of seconds the movement gains or loses in 24 hours. This device is what I always refer back to; you might say it’s my only boss in the atelier!”

The audacious idea to incorporate a Witschi-like measuring instrument in a mechanical watch became a veritable quest for URWERK. “EMC allows you to obtain a reliable and accurate piece of data on your timepiece at the touch of a button – information that until now has been the preserve of professional watchmakers,” says Baumgartner. “Using this information, you can fine-tune one of the most exciting, most jubilant mechanisms invented – the mechanical watch – all by yourself.”  

At its heart, EMC has a triple objective: to show how external parameterspositional changes, temperature and pressure— influence the timing of the movement; to enable the wearer to adjust the timing; and to facilitate interactivity between the timepiece and its owner. EMC is inherently a precision mechanical watch with an in-house movement conceived, developed and crafted in the URWERK ateliers in Zurich and calibrated by URWERK in Geneva. The movement meets the most stringent quality control, with its chronometric performance tested in five positions during a 30-day cycle to ensure that it meets the highest standards for a precision watch.

The EMC movement is equipped with the following features: 

1. A bespoke balance wheel made of ARCAP, an alloy long admired by URWERK for its non-magnetic and anti-corrosion properties. From the very first glance, the originality of this specially-developed balance is striking. Its perfectly linear morphology is the result of careful calculations to optimize data from the optical sensor, maximize aerodynamic efficiency and minimize loss of amplitude.

2.  Power is provided by two large mainspring barrels in series, mounted vertically on a single shaft. These provide a long 80-hour power reserve, which is conducive to stable linear timing performance.

3. The timing adjustment screw is accessible on the back of the watch and allows the owner to make very fine adjustments to the balance rate regulator by changing the active length of the balance spring by turning a simple screw. 

4. An optical sensor on the balance wheel capturing the precise rate of oscillation of the 4 hertz / 28,800 vph regulator, over a period of 3 seconds. This sensor consists of a transmitter and a receiver positioned either side of the balance, and is triggered manually by pressing a button on the left side of the case.

5. A 16,000,000-hertz electronic oscillator. This provides EMC’s reference timing rate. The performance of the balance of EMC —4hz— is compared against this lightning-fast oscillator to obtain the most accurate measurement possible.

6. Artificial intelligence —the computer. This computer determines the difference between the timing rate of the movement and that of the reference oscillator. Each microsecond difference between the two values is expressed as a gain or loss of a second per day of the timing rate. A variation of just 0.0000014 of a second per half-vibration translates as a variation of a second per day.

7. Manual-winding generator —the generator. EMC’s monitoring unit —the optical sensor and the computer— is powered by a micro-generator made by the Swiss company Maxon, which is well known for developing motors for NASA’s Mars rovers.

To monitor and evaluate the mechanical movement, an 'electronic brain' was then needed. Olivier Evalet, a software developer who is passionate about software and computer engineering, has been instrumental in helping this bold project succeed: "The idea was to use precision optics, i.e. light, to measure the precision of a mechanical movement. The accuracy we managed to achieve is better than 10 microseconds. And we have created a reliable system that is designed to work over the long term. The power for EMC's electronic "brain" derives not from a simple battery but a super capacitor that even after 100,000 to 200,000 charge/discharge cycles loses very little performance. We also chose a high-frequency oscillator with an extremely long life – its instability is only 3 parts per million over a full year."

The innovative EMC timing rate monitoring unit has been developed to include the following components:

Martin Frei —designer and co-founder of URWERK— had the considerable task of bringing all of EMC’s technical elements together in a visually-appealing and comfortably-wearing wristwatch. "At URWERK, the starting point of our creations is usually a sketch of the completed watch that embodies mine and Felix’s ideas before the micro-mechanics are fully developed. But with EMC, the technical features of the timepiece were already established and this made my task that little bit trickier. We miniaturized the EMC components to the extreme and this allowed me some leeway in terms of design. My approach was one of pragmatism – from incorporating the folding crank into the case band, to making the electrical energy storing capacitor part of the case. In terms of design, you can spot the influence of objects that are dear to me: the crank echoes that of old SLR cameras; and the design of the balance wheel is reminiscent of a vintage 1/4 inch tape reel".

EMC marks the dawn of a new era, that of an interactive smart mechanical watch allowing the owner to gauge the precision of their timepiece’s chronometric performance and fine-tune it to better suit their daily rhythm and pace of life.

Technical Specifications

Case
Material: Titanium and steel
Dimensions: 43mm wide, 51mm long, 15.8mm thick
Crystal: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: Pressure tested to 30m / 3ATM
Finishing: satin finish; shot-blasting

Movement
Manual-wound Calibre UR-EMC conceived, developed and manufactured by URWERK
Frequency: 28,800 vph – 4Hz
Balance spring: Flat
Energy source: Vertically mounted double mainspring barrels, connected in series
Power reserve: 80 hours

Artificial intelligence
Generator: Maxon® generator with manual winding charging super capacitor
EMC system: Optical sensor controlled by an integrated circuit board: 16'000'000hz reference oscillator.

For more info on URWERK click here. 

News: Glashütte Original Doubles the Number of Watchmaking Apprentices.

Press Release

On Monday August 19, 2013, German watchmaker Glashütte Original welcomed twenty-eight new apprentices to start off their three-year training at the Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking. Of 28 apprentices, 24 will learn the profession of watchmaking and 4 will acquire the knowledge and skills necessary to become toolmakers. This nearly 100% increase in the number of training positions represents one aspect of the Saxon manufacture's response to growing worldwide demand for its exclusive timepieces.

Glashütte Original Managing Director Günter Wiegand formally presented the new apprentices to Gunnar Müller, director of the school, and his team of teachers. The new class is the 13th to begin its training since the company-owned school was opened in Glashütte in 2001.

In the initial years of its operation, the school accepted 12 watchmaker apprentices each year; this year Glashütte Original doubled this number of watchmaker apprenticeship openings to 24. The number of beginning toolmaker apprentices grew from 3 to 4. The strong growth in the number of training positions has been accompanied by an expansion of the school's reach in recruitment; apprentices now come from all over Germany. Among the future watchmakers and toolmakers in this year's class are young people from Hamburg, the Rhineland and Baden-Württemberg. The Alfred Helwig school makes use of state-of-the-art equipment to provide students with the exceptionally high level of craft skills necessary to become professional watchmakers or toolmakers. Required courses in theory are accompanied by those offering experience and insight into in the practical aspects of the profession. 

In the course of the three or three and a half year training period, a number of different practical training courses bring students into selected areas of assembly and service at the Glashütte Original manufacture. The goal of the course is to teach students the traditional craft of watchmaking as well as introduce modern techniques and technologies and equip students to make effective use of them.

Considerable value is also placed on the maintenance of international standards of training, emphasized through the cooperation, unique in Germany, of the Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking with Switzerland's WOSTEP —Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program. This partnership allows apprentice watchmakers who pass their final examination at the Alfred Helwig School to obtain, along with the German Skilled Worker's Certificate, the WOSTEP diploma.

With the start of their training Managing Director Günter Wiegand made a promise to the new apprentices: if they complete their course with an overall grade higher than 2.0 —equivalent to mark B in the USA and in the UK—, they will obtain what has become a rarity in Germany today: a guaranteed job in the Glashütte Original manufacture or another Swatch Group company. 

For more information on Glashütte Original click here.  

Breaking News: The Zenith Boutique in Geneva was Burglarized.

The Zenith boutique on the Rue du Rhône was broken into last night between 5 and 6 am. Initial observations indicate that the burglars smashed through the front door using a ram-raid vehicle, before making off with the contents of the Boutique’s inside displays. The information gathered on site by police does not as yet enable them to provide any further details on the event as such, nor on the estimated value of the goods stolen. An investigation is in progress and every effort is being made to render the Zenith Boutique operational again as soon as possible.  The Boutique will therefore as planned be hosting its guests on August 29th for the traditional Geneva grape harvest celebrations.

For more info on Zenith click here.  

News: Zenith Presents the El Primero Stratos Flyback Tribute to Aviation. 50-Piece Limited Edition for Mexico, South America and the Caribbean.

Zenith presents the El Primero Stratos Flyback Tribute to Aviation a limited edition of 50-pieces exclusively available in Mexico, South America and the Caribbean. The Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Tribute to Aviation is fitted with the in-house automatic chronograph calibre El Primero 405B —like all El Primero movements, it beats at 36,000 vph allowing it to measure tenths of a second.

The new El Primero Stratos Flyback Tribute to Aviation is equipped with a flyback chrono mechanism that allows the user to restart the chronograph on the fly without the need to first stop it using the start/stop pusher.

This new model comes in Ti-Alum, a high-tech alloy specially developed for aeronautics and car racing and which is now being used into the horological world. Its magnetic permeability is 50 times lower than that of various grades of steel and its corrosion-resistance properties are unparalleled. The movement on this new chronograph provides a power-reserve of a minimum of 50 hours when fully wound and is composed of 331 parts 31 jewels.

Sticker Price $11,500 USD. For more information on Zenith click here. 

News: Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Tech Green and Tech Gold. Now Available at Authorized Retailers.

The SpidoLite II Tech with a case weighing only 33 grams comes in two limited edition series of 75 pieces each and is ready to be delivered to its first customers as it is now available via Linde Werdelin authorized retailers around the world. A combination of non-traditional materials employed on a watch for the first time with Linde Werdelin ALW-Alloy in the inner that case has been combined with forged carbon on the outer case to guarantee our lightest yet strongest case to date.

The SpidoLite II Tech Green has been crafted with the most high-tech materials in an advanced development to achieve the strongest and lightest case to date. The ultra light case weighing just 33 grams —measuring 44mm wide x 46mm long x 15mm thick— combines Linde Werdelin's ALW-Alloy —a metal composite developed for the aerospace industry and for the first time in a watch case— with carbon, ceramic, and the new ceramic coating for titanium in a fully skeletonized structure. Fitted with a bespoke black calfskin strap with matching green stitching is available in a limited series of 75 pieces worldwide. Sticker Price CHF 13,000 excluding VAT.

The SpidoLite II Tech Gold features the same case construction, size and materials as the SpidoLite II Tech Green but is fitted with an 18K rose gold bezel and crown. The watch  comes with a dial configuration in red and matching red stitching on the SpidoLite black textured calfskin strap with ardillon buckle —interchangeable within Linde Werdelin's proprietary strap system. Sticker Price CHF 17,500 excluding VAT.

Linde Werdelin's signature case structure also features a display case back that allows for full view of the beautifully finished custom-made automatic movement that is also revealed through the skeletonized dial. 

 For more info on Linde Werdelin click here.   

News: Richard Mille RM030 Americas Limited Edition. Only 30 Pieces Available at Richard Mille Boutiques in North and South America.

Press Release

Following the success of the RM011, RM016 and RM028 limited editions created exclusively for sale in the Americas, Richard Mille unveils the RM030 Americas limited edition.
 
The RM 030 Americas stands apart from all other models thanks to its bright orange upper flange, crown protector, and hands, complemented by white numerals and date aperture. The timepiece is encased in black carbon nanotube and presented on a black rubber strap.
 
Inside the case of the RM030 beats the novel calibre RMAR1, which features a rotor that declutches automatically. With this system, the winding barrel is automatically disconnected from the rotor’s winding mechanism at the moment when the spring is fully wound. Additionally, this new mechanism is linked to the power reserve indicator to provide optimal control. This allows both the movement and the oscillator to work with the best ratio of constant torque/power to provide the best chronometric performance.
 
The RM030 Americas is a limited edition of 30 pieces, available exclusively at Richard Mille boutiques and authorized Richard Mille retailers throughout North and South America.
 
Technical Specifications of the RM030 Americas Limited Edition Automatic with Declutchable Rotor:
 
Dimensions: 50 mm x 42.70 mm x 13.95 mm
Power-reserve circa 55 hours
Declutchable and adjustable rotor geometry
Winding indicator
Date display
Free sprung balance with variable inertia
Double barrel
Baseplate, bridges and balance cock made of titanium
Torque limiting crown in titanium
Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms
Inertia moment 4.8 mg.cm², angle of lift 53°
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted, Titalyt® treated
Barrel bridges PVD coated
Sapphire blasted and hand-drawn surfaces

Sticker Price $135,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.  

Upcoming: 5th Edition 'Only Watch' Charity Auction. September 28, 2013 in Monaco.

The Principality of Monaco will be hosting the fifth edition of the exceptional 'Only Watch' charity watch auction benefiting research for Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

Recognized as the world’s first charity watch auction, Only Watch will take place on September 28th in Monaco and will be conducted by the watch auctioneers, Antiquorum. 33 of the world’s leading watch manufactures will each donate a unique timepiece specially created for the occasion.

The proceeds from the sale will be donated to the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy – promoter of Only Watch with Antiquorum Auctioneers and the Monaco Yacht Show, in order to help finance research for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a degenerative neuromuscular disease affecting 1 in 3,500 boys, therefore 250,000 children, adolescents, and young adults around the world.

From September 6th, an international exhibit of the Only Watch collection of timepieces for men and women will travel the world: Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, New York, Geneva and will be concluded by a presentation during the Monaco Yacht Show —September 25th to 28th. The auction will take place on September 28th at 11 am —GMT+1— in the 'Salle Belle Epoque' of the Hôtel Hermitage.

Participating brands include: Backes & Strauss, Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Chanel, Chopard, Chronoswiss, Corum, De Bethune, Dewitt, Girard-Perregaux, Harry Winston, Hublot, Ikepod, Jaquet Droz, Louis Vuitton, Montblanc, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin and Zenith amongst others.

For more info click here.

News: Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Titanium and Gold. North America Special Edition of 15 Out Now.

Press Release

Linde Werdelin has released a very unique series of the SpidoLite family available exclusively in Linde Werdelin’s North America authorized retailers. SpidoLite II Titanium Gold is a limited edition of 15 pieces available exclusively in North America territory. While the skeletonised case is entirely crafted in titanium it features a rose gold crown and rose gold detailing on the dial.

Like the original SpidoLite family, the case and dial construction of SpidoLite II Titanium Gold are inspired by racing cars' weight reduction technology, making this piece the ultimate tool for high altitude sports experience. The entire case bears hand satin finished facets and details in microbillé. The crown is crafted in 18 karat rose gold with microbillé followed by a hand satin finishing. The dial consists of two skeletonized layers. The 'Côtes de Genève' lower dial carries the Linde Werdelin logo. The upper dial is in a rose gold colour with luminant indexes as well as the three hands. The numerals of the skeletonised black calendar wheel have been amplified, enhancing date readability.


The LW 04, caliber 2251, powers the SpidoLite II Gold, custom-made by Concepto; independent movement manufacture based in La Chaux de Fonds. The movement is visible through the dial as well as through the sapphire crystal case-back. The front and back of the movement are finished with a circular perlage and engraved with the Spido icon. The black rotor bears a rose gold Linde Werdelin logo type. All the screws in the movement are blued steel and have been implemented because of their high anti-corrosion properties and to enhance the beauty of the movement. The result is achieved with a slow and cautious heating process.

SpidoLite II Titanium Gold is available in a limited series of 15 pieces, with a Sticker Price $ 12,900 USD from July 2013 exclusively from Linde Werdelin’s North America authorized retailers.

Linde Werdelin creates highly crafted mechanical timepieces with attachable digital sports instruments for diving and skiing. Founded in 2002 by Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin and launched in 2006, Linde Werdelin brings Swiss craftsmanship and Danish design ingenuity together with avant-garde instrument technology. Linde Werdelin has redefined what a sports timepiece can be. In combining mechanical and digital technologies while retaining the integrity of each, Linde Werdelin represents the ultimate sports timepiece for use with intelligent precision instruments to amplify the sporting experience whether high in the mountains or deep in the sea.

All Linde Werdelin timepieces are made in Geneva, Switzerland together with the best possible watch and case makers the industry offers. The Linde Werdelin instruments are in-house developed and hand-made on the premises, in Copenhagen, Denmark.
Linde Werdelin produces all its timepieces in small limited series.

For more info on Linde Werdelin click here.  

News: Richard Mille Partners with Golfer Diana Luna and Lacoste Ladies Open Tournament.

Press Release

Richard Mille is moving into the world of women’s golf with the Italian champion Diana Luna and by becoming the Major Partner in the Lacoste Ladies Open tournament.

Richard Mille wished to support a technical feminine sport. He was impressed by the personality of Diana Luna, the RM family’s first women’s sporting partner, and by her promising career.

Number 1 in her country, proette since 2002 to the Ladies European Tour which she marked with 5 victories, the trans-alpine golfer has gone from strength to strength since her career took off. Her story begins in 2000, when she won four Italian championships and one European championship as part of a junior team. In 2004, she won her first title at the Tenerife Ladies Open, before going on to win two major tournaments in 2009 – the AIB Ladies Irish Open and the SAS Ladies Masters in Norway. That same year, she scored again, becoming the first Italian in the history of golf to qualify for the Solheim Cup European team. Victory came once more in 2011 at the Ladies German Open. During the competition, Diana Luna achieved a first in the history of women’s golf, playing 72 holes over four days with no bogeys. Again in 2011, she won the Deutsche Bank Ladies Swiss Open, before coming second the following year at the French Open —Lacoste Ladies Open. In her young career, 31 top 10 finishes, 5 victories on the European circuit, 5 victories in the PGA of Italy.

And on the green, an RM 007 Titanium graces the wrist of Diana Luna notably in the Lacoste Ladies Open held 26th to 29th of September. The Richard Mille brand will be for the first time the Major Partner of the French Ladies Open.

Golf is a sport of precision, technique, endurance and concentration. It is thus quite naturally that Richard Mille drew again the parallel with the calibers of extreme performance and wished to join the French Open that is held every year at the Golf of Chantaco in Saint Jean de Luz —France. Richard Mille will also be lending his name to the pre-tournament Pro-Am on the 25th of September. For the 3 days of the event, the 78 best European female players will be competing, with the winner taking home a ladies’ RM 007 Titanium watch, a one-off piece crafted with a white crown and white rubber strap, engraved with the ‘Lacoste Ladies Open 2013’ name tournament on the middle case.

Richard Mille has been eagerly ushered into the world of women’s sport, accompanied by one of Europe’s top female golfers. As with other sporting partnerships, this alliance will allow the watch company to test and develop a product that has been designed with adaptability under extreme conditions in mind. Diana Luna will work with Richard Mille engineers to develop a watch caliber with ergonomics, elegance and performance as key elements.

For more info click here.  

News: Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Seasons. Now Available in Stores.

In an expert blend of mastered skill by the Jaquet Droz craftsmen, the Petite Heure Minute Relief Seasons offers a new aesthetically-pleasing performance while reinventing tradition.
 
The magnificence of birds, and especially the blue songbirds of his native Swiss Jura, has always captivated Pierre Jaquet-Droz. From the beginning, the watchmaker from La Chaux-de-Fonds has paid tribute to the fascinating and graceful crystalline song of these creatures using the most advanced techniques of the age to render the beauty of the plumage, the density of the colors, and the mysterious depth of their gaze.
 
For over 3 centuries, artistic crafts have been central to Jaquet Droz’s creative magic. Far from being merely ornamental, they personify the very spirit of the brand.  More faithful than ever to this artistic world, the craftsmen of the Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art have once more surpassed themselves to create the Petite Heure Minute Relief Seasons, a timepiece that celebrates the enchantment of birds.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Seasons ref. J005023270

Delicately positioned on either side of the dial, two blue songbirds spread their wings. Are they about to land? Or take to the air? All the mystery of this scene resides in meticulously ordered craftsmanship: a dial is fashioned in hand-engraved mother-of-pearl, the birds are sculpted and engraved in gold before being applied to the dial and finally, the birds and the dial are painted– a miniature 'trompe-l’œil' which comes to life in the hands of the brand’s craftsmen.

From the curve of the wings to the size of the bodies, from the swell of the throat to the subtle association of the yellow and blue feathers, nothing has been omitted to make this truly three-dimensional masterpiece, saluting the beauty of nature and the freedom of these fascinating birds. The domed sapphire glass reinforces the optical illusion of the scene. When worn, it’s as if the whole of Nature is about to come to life, a reminder that the finest expression of life can be read in the passing of time.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Seasons ref. J005024575

 

A fusion of the most talented craftsmanship on a background of mother-of-pearl and gold, the model comes in two versions: one version for fall in red gold enhanced by warm colors and a winter version in diamond-set white gold dominated by colder tones, each available in a limited edition of 88. And for the brand’s admirers, spring and summer will not be far behind to wrap up this magnificent opus.

Both watches are fitted with  the automatic calibre Jaquet   Droz 2653 with 28 jewels that provides a power-reserve of 68 hours when fully wound.

The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Seasons Ref. J005023270 comes with a 41mm case in 18K red gold and its calibre is fitted with an 18K red gold   oscillating weight with white mother-of-pearl and hand engraved and patinated   22K red gold bird applique. The watch comes on a handmade brown alligator strap. 

The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Seasons ref. J005024575 comes with a 41 mm case in 18K white gold set with 272 diamonds —totaling 1.04 carats— and its calibre is fitted with an 18K white   gold oscillating weight with white mother-of-pearl and hand engraved and   rhodium-plated 22K red gold bird applique.

For more info click here.  

News: U-BOAT Unveils a New Range of 43 mm Limited Edition Chimeras with New Crown Innovation.

Press Release

U-­‐BOAT creations are always renowned for their tough appearance, exuding an impression of power, with unique identity and distinctive design. Their large and characteristic dial couples with the huge crown wheel on the left-hand side of the watch, winning the appreciation of men and women endowed with personality, contemporary style and adventurous spirit.

Today, Italo Fontana creative mind behind U-BOAT has created a new version for the Chimera model in 43 mm. All the versions of the Chimera in materials from bronze, to silver .925, to burnished steel, will be available also embellished by emeralds, rubies and white and black diamonds, not to mention an amazing new range of straps, great example of the fine Italian hand work with exclusive symbols in silver and precious stones crafted into the straps. 

Furthermore, Italo decides to add a new innovation: a patented system for retrieval of the watch crown. Nestled between U-BOAT's iconic left hand crown and its crown guard is a sculpted pusher that can be depressed to eject the inner-crown from its recessed position. This enables ease of adjustment for both the date and time. Pushed one, the inner crown will pop out to enable the adjustment of the date, pushed twice, allows you to change the time. 

7236 Chimera 43 mm Bronze

7237 Chimera 43 mm B and B 

For more info click here.

News: Linde Werdelin Presents the Oktopus II Double Date Titanium Red. A Limited Edition of 88 Pieces.

Press Release

Linde Werdelin, renowned for crafting functional and tech timepieces with attachable digital instruments for skiing and diving, hits the Summer Solstice introducing Oktopus II Double Date Titanium Red with new features and subtle details on the dial. Limited to only 88 pieces it is available immediately via our retail partners around the world. Firstly introduced at BaselWorld 2012, Oktopus II Double Date comes in a striking red and titanium colour dial with red, black and luminent details; matching a newly released interchangeable red rubber strap.

The dial’s titanium color is a newness implemented to heighten the finishing and enhance the contrast between the red particulars and the black ceramic bezel while conceiving further depth. This is the latest addition to the Oktopus Family of contemporary dive watches featuring the artistic calendar double wheel.

The Oktopus II Double Date has been developed with the Reef, Linde Werdelin's proprietary diving instrument, in mind and its construction has been inspired by all the equipment available in the Denmark Lab for dive-testing both the Oktopus and the Reef. “The completion of the Reef and development of the Oktopus II case construction has granted us an unrivalled diving expertise and further confidence to develop a contemporary dive watch while enjoy experimenting with innovative combinations of materials and colours.” says Morten Linde.

The Oktopus II Double Date Titanium Red features a five-part case construction to ensure absolute water resistance and excellent anti-corrosive protection given by the finest materials employed, such as titanium and ceramic. The case features a central movement chamber and four case parts assembled together with 16 screws. The four case parts at three, six, nine and twelve o’clock, are built separately from the movement chamber and are used to attach the strap as well as to hold the attachable instrument. The titanium case body has undergone a rough satin finish to achieve the masculine appeal. Oktopus II Double Date Titanium Red like the original Double Date Series intentionally dispenses with a turning bezel as the information —time spent submersed—, traditionally measured by a turning bezel, is available in the Reef —dive instrument. While the fixed bezel is crafted in ceramic, employed for its highly scratch resistant properties, it is given a circular satin finish with a polished facet on the outer side conceiving a lavish and charming effect under the light. The robust crown at 3 o’clock bears an engraving of an octopus icon. The back case has been decorated with an octopus drawing by Morten Linde.

The dial of Oktopus II Double Date is built in two layers. The lower layer is made with a circular 'Cotes de Genève' dial to give the effect of water ripples. Two laser-cut red wheels at 11 and 1 o’clock are powered by the big calendar complication. Titanium color is introduced for the first time on the dial of Oktopus II Double Date, to best highlight the finishing and the contrast between the red details and the black ceramic bezel while conceiving further depth to its widely open dial. Bearing the Linde Werdelin logo and indexes 3, 6 and 9 in superluminova, together with the big calendar wheels, the upper dial reveals the icon of an octopus.

The Oktopus II Double Date Titanium Red is powered by a Linde Werdelin LW04 customised Dubois Depraz calibre 14580 and available in a limited series of 88 pieces, retailing at CHF 10,200 ex VAT.

For more info click here.  

News: Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Ferrari Beverly Hills Limited Edition. Only 50 Pieces Available.

Press Release

Hublot expands its partnership with the Maranello-based Italian automobile manufacturer Ferrari by announcing a new 50-piece limited edition, the Big Bang Ferrari Beverly Hills. Hublot, the manufacturer of Ferrari and Scuderia Ferrari “Official Watches,” and the official timekeeper of Ferrari, Scuderia Ferrari, and the Ferrari Challenge, adds to the family of Big Bang Ferrari watches with a new edition available exclusively at the Hublot Boutique Beverly Hills.

The Big Bang Ferrari Beverly Hills fuses style, materials and mechanics in way that uniquely addresses the respective DNA of Hublot and Ferrari: innovation, performance, technology and exclusivity. The Big Bang Ferrari Beverly Hills sports a 45.5-mm black ceramic case with a satin-finished black ceramic bezel, blue inner bezel and sapphire dial, which dramatically showcase the automatic movement inside. The UNICO chronograph movement can be compared to the best possible engine to power a racing car. With no fewer than 330 components, oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the column wheel and dual horizontal coupling on the dial side appear in a constellation reminiscent of Ferrari alloy wheel rims. The timepiece has a 72-hour power reserve, and is water-resistant to 100 meters. The minute counter, whose hands and indices recall a Ferrari dashboard, is positioned at 3 o’clock and complemented by a date window in ‘Modena’ yellow. Ferrari’s legendary prancing horse is featured discreetly in relief at 9 o'clock.

The watch’s indexed crown is bracketed by elongated push buttons, fixed along a rotating axis like the pedals in a car. The Ferrari logo is engraved and lacquered red on the lower push button, complementing the red seconds hand and chronograph indices. The blue schedoni leather strap, backed by black rubber and stitched in Ferrari red, is a nod to the signature upholstery craftsmanship typical of Ferrari.

The absence of superfluous accessories brings out the fusional and rational aspects of the Big Bang Ferrari Beverly Hills’ unique design, a pure expression of the values that characterize the sports spirit of Ferrari and at the same time the inimitable Hublot style.

For more info click here.  

Posted on July 15, 2013 and filed under News, Hublot.

News: The New Alpina 300 Extreme Diver 300 Orange

Press Release

For a professional diver, good visibility isn't just mildly important; it can be lifesaving. Being able to access important information relating to the time spent under water, or the number of minutes of air supply still available to the diver who is in deep or murky waters is essential.

With all this in mind, the designers and engineers at Alpina are delighted to introduce the new Alpina Extreme Diver Orange range, featuring one automatic and one mid-size, quartz caliber model.

Both models share a number of professional diving features. The Extreme Diver 300 Orange is water resistant to a depth of 300m/1000ft. It has a screw-in crown and a screw-down case-back, as well as a jet black polished unidirectional rotating 60 minute diving bezel. The bezel markers are luminous. Both models also feature an anti-reflective treated sapphire crystal. Other shared features include the rich black dial and white luminous indexes. The bright white minute hand is bordered with luminous orange, and the second hand has the signature Alpina triangle, also in orange, at the base. Finally, a large three-day date display is situated at the 3 o'clock position.

The AL-525 Automatic version in 44mm comes with a 38-hour power reserve. It has a see-through case back revealing the AL-525 automatic movement. The package is completed by a choice of diver's rubber, metal or metal mesh straps with securely folding clasp. The Extreme Diver 300 Automatic comes in a specially designed gift box, uniquely shaped as a diving bottle, and containing an extra swimsuit nylon strap.

The AL-240 Midsize quartz model in 38mm comes with 45 months battery life. It has an engraved case-back with a diving theme and divers have the choice between rubber or metal straps.

For more info click here.  

News: Audemars Piguet Celebrates Montreux Jazz Festival Archives' Recognition by UNESCO

Claude Nobs_Original.jpg

Press Release

Montreux, 4th July 2013 - In 2010, Audemars Piguet, Montreux Sounds and the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne (EPFL) united their efforts with the aim of digitizing, restoring and preserving the precious archives of the Montreux Jazz Festival founded by the late Claude Nobs. A collection that amounts in several thousands of recordings hours of the best musicians in the world has now become the first audiovisual library to be acknowledged by UNESCO as part of its “Memory
of the World”, in an effort to protect the world’s intangible heritage.

Ensuring that Claude Nobs’ heritage continues to live for years to come, Thierry Amsallem, his partner, announced the creation of the Claude Nobs Foundation, with a goal of preserving and making widely accessible this invaluable collection of 5000 hours of live recordings covering almost half-century of musical history.

For Audemars Piguet, the Montreux Sounds Digital Project is perfectly aligned with the brand’s values of preserving its long heritage and tradition in fine watchmaking for the future generations in its birthplace La Vallée de Joux. Commenting on the recent announcement, Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henry Bennahmias, said: “Claude Nobs’ lifework was the inspiration for this project. He was a loyal friend of Audemars Piguet and we are delighted on this personal level to be part of this project. More importantly, we are proud to support a colossal effort that transforms this unique heritage into a top-class digital resource for the generations to come”.

Claude Nobs, a visionary man, valued immensely the world of music which is why he created Montreux Jazz Festival, something that has come to be an institution not only in Switzerland but around the world. Like all great ideas however it took a lot of convincing and insisting before Claude Nobs could persuade the TV stations to come and record the concerts. His vision was to build a music legacy for the next generations. Claude bought back the early archives from Swiss Television when he heard they were overwriting them and from then onwards he personally ensured that all concerts were systematically recorded and filmed. This legacy constitutes almost 5,000 hours of live audiovisual recordings encompassing almost half a century of the festival history, stretching from 1967 to 2012 and forms a unique collection that Quincy Jones has described as “the most important testimonial to the history of music, covering jazz, blues and rock”.

For more info click here.  

News: Vulcain Cricket President 'Edition France'. 50-Piece Limited Edition.

Press Release

The Manufacture Vulcain pays tribute to France in a 50-piece limited edition of its famous Cricket alarm timepiece, the 50s Presidents’ Watch. A fine way of celebrating the long-established ties between the Swiss brand and the land of luxury, elegance and refinement. France has always held a special place in Vulcain’s history since it was founded in 1858. Creations by the Manufacture soon achieved impressive success on this market. In 1889, at the World’s Fair held in Paris at the foot of the recently erected Eiffel Tower, Vulcain attracted attention with its rich range of simple or complicated pocket-watches. These included the “La Vallée de l’Arve” Grande Complication model with grand strike, minute repeater, perpetual calendar and moon phases that won a bronze medal.

France also played a key role in the birth of the Cricket calibre that earned Vulcain international fame. In 1943, at a time when Vulcain’s Managing Director Robert Dittisheim was seeking to develop the first genuinely functional wristwatch capable of awakening even the deepest sleeper, French physicist Paul Langevin paid him a visit in La Chaux-de-Fonds. During a stroll through the garden, the latter assured him that of a tiny creature like the cricket could make a sound that was audible from a distance of 30 metres, a small case housing a complex mechanism must be able to match such a performance. Buoyed by this scientific support, Robert Dittisheim pursued his research that was to lead in 1947 to the launch of the calibre with twin calibres —one for the movement and the other for the alarm— named the Cricket as a nod to the insect’s strident song.

Since Vulcain’s return to the forefront of the watchmaking scene, the French market has always been among the leading followers of the brand and of its new models. French retailers have also proven extremely active in supporting this renewal, and the Manufacture is keenly aware of the daily significance of their backing.

In homage to France and to the enthusiasm for the brand shown by French customers, Vulcain is innovating by introducing its first ever watch specifically dedicated to a nation. This 50-piece limited edition of the iconic 50s Presidents’ Watch features a 42 mm steel case housing the legendary mechanical manually-wound Cricket V-16 alarm movement equipped with the brand-patented Exactomatic system ensuring improved rating regularity on the wrist. Particular care has been lavished on the polished and satin-brushed finish of the case that lends a chic and vintage touch. The sunburst
silver-toned dial with applied hour-markers is distinguished by its aura of elegant understatement expressed through hours, minutes and seconds hands along with a date window at 6 o’clock. Finally, the owner of this limited-edition timepiece can precisely adjust the alarm time thanks to a central hand tipped with a black arrow gliding across the graduated scale around the outer rim of the dial.

The case-back is engraved with the name of the watch, the individual series number as well as a crown of laurels —a symbol of strength, of victory and accomplishment— as well as of peace, knowledge and creativity. One also notes the choice of the colour blue for the Vulcain logo, the sweep seconds hand and the alarm markings. The sapphire crystal window provides an admirable view of the refined movement
finishing —Côtes de Genève, anthracite treatment, blued screws and openworked ratchet-wheel—, topped by the V for Vulcain. Each of the watches in this special edition comes with its individual certificate. 

For more info click here.  

News: Eberhard & Co. The Main Sponsor of Passione Engadina

Screen Shot 2013-07-10 at 4.01.41 PM.png
eberhardpassioneengadina.jpg

Press Release

In connection with their activity as sponsors of events in the fascinating universe of vintage cars, this year Eberhard & Co. is the main sponsor of Passione Engadina, an international meeting with the unique characteristic of featuring only Italian cars made before 1983. The event will again be staged against the unparalleled backdrop of St. Moritz, with its itineraries that will once again prove a tough test for the participants, coming from all over the world with their beloved vintage cars.

Screen Shot 2013-07-10 at 4.01.28 PM.png

Eberhard & Co., the makers of masterful timepieces in the heart of French-speaking Switzerland for over 125 years, has always been attracted to events that bring out the values dearest to the brand and its unwavering passion for technical perfection, beauty and mechanical tradition, fundamental requirements for anyone wishing to produce objects that will be appreciated and passed down over time, while remaining in the hearts of true connoisseurs. These two so strikingly similar worlds actually first converged many years ago when Eberhard & Co. dedicated a collection of chronographs to one of the greatest drivers of all time, Tazio Nuvolari. A new addition was made to this collection recently with the launch of the Tazio Nuvolari Vanderbilt Cup Naked.

Part of the panorama of the numerous motoring events sponsored by Eberhard & Co. in many countries over the past twenty years, this collaboration between the Swiss watchmakers and the organisers of Passione Engadina will be made unique by the creation of a special timepiece dedicated solely to the participants of the 2013 edition: a special series of the legendary Traversetolo, a large watch that is perfect while driving.

Three categories will be competing from 23-25 August, 2013 along an itinerary that winds through the enchanting scenario of the Swiss Alps, over numerous mountain passes and eight special stages. The winners of each category will be awarded the Eberhard & Co. watch, to go with their immense pride at having taken part in such a fascinating event.

For information on the event and to register click here.

For more details on Eberhard, click here.

News: Audemars Piguet High Jewelry Watchmaking Unveiled. Haute Joaillerie Creation.

Press Release

Audemars Piguet’s launch of an extraordinary High Jewelry timepiece gives a fresh impetus to a specialty that has illuminated its heritage for 130 years. Although exercised in varying degrees of intensity over the decades, the creation of splendid feminine jewelry demonstrates skills and talents that the Manufacture has admirably perpetuated to the highest level.

Founded in 1875 in Le Brassus in the Vallée de Joux, Audemars Piguet is an independent watchmaking brand that to this day has always been owned by descendants of its founders and still lives in the village of its birth. Its values of tradition and authenticity are inseparably bound up with the environment in which it has developed, as is demonstrated by its advertising campaign featuring wonderful images of local landscapes. In 2013, the valley blessed by Audemars Piguet is subtly evoked through a highly symbolic piece of jewelry that brings to mind not only the brand’s natural heritage, but also the feminine element that is so deeply rooted within it.

Audemars Piguet started creating calibres designed for ladies’ watches from 1883 onwards, less than ten years after its foundation, and has nurtured the art of jewelry throughout its history. The beginning of the 20th century, with its Belle Epoque and the Roaring Twenties, was a particularly rich period marked by a creativity that has been echoed ever since from generation to generation.

Today, the plant-life themes of Art Nouveau suffuse a depiction of the Vallée de Joux, while the geometric lines of Art Deco endow the portrayal with an inimitable sense of purity and restraint. Different styles thus merge to compose a highly sophisticated contemporary creation.

This new High Jewelry creation was born under the watchful eye of a woman, none other than the President of the Board, Jasmine Audemars, and stem from the fertile imagination of designer Julie Dicks under the guidance of Octavio Garcia, Audemars Piguet’s Chief Artistic Officer.

In the brand’s employ for the past two years, Julie represents the only female presence in the in-house design department. Her particular sensitivity has resulted in a highly refined wristwatch with a 28.5 millimeter diameter, fitted with a bracelet featuring gradually decreasing foliage developed on fine, intersecting branches. It is a play on asymmetry, with reverse ramifications and a crown offset at 2 o’clock, associated with great subtlety expressed through alternating polished and gem-set surfaces.

The stylized landscape on the dial evokes the Dent de Vaulion, a peak in the Jura overlooking the Lac de Joux. To symbolize the serenity of nature lying dormant beneath the snow, the designer has chosen to combine the whiteness of mother-of-pearl, gold and diamonds. A sprinkling of blue sapphires adds a cool, fresh touch, while the exquisitely feminine and romantic spirit of this piece is accentuated by a flight of swallows heralding the imminent arrival of spring. A crossroad of exceptional crafts this contemporary masterpiece was designed, developed and created by Audemars Piguet.

It represents the entire spectrum of crafts perpetuated internally and is the fruit of an interactive collaboration between the various craftsmen - designer, jeweller, gem-setter and engraver – as well as the watchmakers who produced the Manufacture’s mechanical movement. The creation of the bracelet followed a particularly long and meticulous process. The manufacturing phase itself was preceded by an in-depth study of volumes and joints in order to obtain a perfect balance and maximum flexibility, with the aim of respecting the original design. The gold leaves, all different sizes, were individually hand-crafted, and partially cover delicate metal strands, assembled using the sophisticate Parisian mesh technique. The S shaped curves they trace considerably add to the complexity of the task. In order not to spoil the overall aesthetic appearance, the jeweler has designed an invisible clasp concealed at 6 o’clock beneath the case. In addition, as the bracelet can be completely taken apart, any adjustments can be easily made to ensure the closest possible fit on the owner’s wrist.

The precious stones, the purest diamonds (IF) and the best quality sapphires come in brilliant, baguette and marquise cuts. Some are tailor-made in situ to ensure that they suit their positioning, while others have imposed their unique character on the shaping of the structure. Snow, grain and closed setting result in harmonious reflections contrasting with rare subtlety, and a composition that is lit up right the way through to the case-back. Overall, this piece is enhanced with 440 diamonds, including 16 exceptional marquise-cut stones, totaling 10.99 carats, as well as 11 sapphires totaling 0.21 carat.

The engraver calls upon the full measure of his skill to provide a deliberately light relief to the gold plate on the dial. Open-worked like lace, it forms the décor on a base covered in diamonds and pristine mother-of-pearl. The surface of the branches required the utmost attention due to their extreme finesse (0.3 to 0.4 millimeters thick), entailing the risk of destroyed the work by even the slightest inadvertent gesture. Leaves engraved on either side of the case form dynamic lines that extend the ramifications of the bracelet lugs. The movement is enlivened by the distinctive design of the ratchet-wheel. This round, mobile part enhanced by a dedicated engraving, attracts the eye and personalizes the movement that may be admired through the sapphire case-back.

The mechanical movement housed in this High Jewelry timepiece is hand-wound Calibre 3091, beating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour and endowed with a 48-hour power reserve. Designed, developed and manufactured internally at the Manufacture Audemars Piguet, the timepiece is decorated in keeping with the finest watchmaking traditions. Its blued screws evoke the color of the gold hands sweeping over the dial and the sapphires that enhance the radiance of the bracelet. A movement such as this instills exceptionally exclusive character into this sparkling creation, since jewelry watches driven by a mechanical calibre are few and far between. Harmony rules in this sumptuous creation. The theme admirably reflects the identity of a family company that is deeply attached to its roots and the art of jewelry blends wonderfully with the art of watchmaking.

For Audemars Piguet, it also heralds a renaissance in the realm of High Jewelry, to the delight of women who are enthralled by its age-old expertise.

For more info click here.  

 

 

News: Richard Mille Donates the Yohan Blake Tourbillon Prototype to Only Watch Charity Auction

For this year's edition of the Only Watch charity auction, Richard Mille will donate a one-of-a-kind example of the RM 038 Tourbillon, created for sprinter Yohan Blake's participation in the 2012 London Olympics where he won three medals. Yohan Blake and also participated at the Diamond League in Lausanne where he won the 100m and became the third fastest sprinter of all time over this distance, beating his personal best.
 
"This prototype, which was worn by Yohan Blake during the London Olympic Games, created an enormous amount of media attention. It is a unique piece based upon the RM038 but adapted to Yohan Blake’s specifications. This watch has experienced the joy of the podium and shared the spotlight with the gold and silver medals won by Yohan. It is truly a piece of historic importance," said Richard Mille.
 
This Tourbillon Prototype in the colors of the Jamaican flag features a green flange and crown, yellow minute-markers and a yellow Velcro® strap that contrasts with the all white case. This caliber with 19 jewels beating at 3Hz, has its baseplate, bridges and balance cock made of grade 5 titanium. The case of this prototype is made of an extremely rugged and light alloy called magnesium WE 54, one of the lightest metals used in construction known for its excellent property retention capacities at
elevated temperatures.
 
After a long and delicate machining phase, theses alloys are given a new electro-plasma oxidation treatment called Miarox®, improving both the durability and scratch resistance of this alloy as well as its wear and corrosion properties.

image004.jpg


By placing a tourbillon watch on Yohan Blake’s wrist during the Olympic Games —a first in the history of sprinting— the brand was able to test the resilience of this exceptional and unique piece in extreme conditions, assessing its performance and comfort when faced with typical racing constraints.

The Richard Mille brand has been a dedicated and unwavering supporter of Only Watch since its creation and chose to donate on this occasion a unique piece full of history which accompanied the great champion in 2012.

For more info on Richard Mille click here and for Only Watch Charity here.  

News: James Dean Elgin Lucky Pocket Watch Sells At Antiquorum. Way Above Estimates at More Than $40,000 USD.

A star-lot of Antiquorum’s June 22nd Hong Kong watch auction was the wildly successful sale of the long-awaited Elgin pocket watch belonging to Hollywood legend James Dean. The sale of James Dean's Elgin pocket watch set a world record going for more than eight times its pre-sale estimated value of $5,000-10,000 USD. 

The History Behind the Watch 

Dean purchased his prized watch in late 1951 while still a struggling young actor working in New York. It was his first big purchase, and he was so proud of it he had his initials engraved on the gold cover. Dean considered the watch his good luck charm and wore it while performing in TV and plays. The charm worked, as he was soon summoned to Los Angeles to audition for 'East of Eden', his breakout film, where he met the author, John Steinbeck. While visiting Los Angeles, Dean visited his estranged father, who gave him his own gold watch chain to prevent his son from losing
his lucky watch. Dean wore it in his pants pocket, with the chain dangling from a belt loop, even throughout the filming of 'East of Eden' despite director Elia Kazan's protests. His performance in the film would earn him his first of two posthumous Academy Award nominations and two Golden Globes.

James Dean ultimately gifted the watch to Tillie Starriet, a Warner Brothers employee whom he befriended during the filming of 'East of Eden'. He bonded with Tillie from the beginning of his movie career in L.A. and called her Mom. She was older than Dean and acted as surrogate mother for the young 23 year-old actor —she was the only person he would allow to prepare his hair for 'East of Eden' and 'Rebel Without a Cause'. Tillie Starriet mentioned in a letter of authentication accompanying the watch: “My two favorite presents from Jimmy are the lucky gold watch and chain that he loved, and when he gave them to me he gave me a card that said To Mom”. Dean was quite superstitious and attributed his early success to the lucky watch, but perhaps he should have hung on to it a little longer —he was killed in a car accident at the age of 24, leaving behind relatively few personal items. His Porsche Spyder was scrapped in Texas decades ago, the red jacket he wore in 'Rebel Without a Cause' was given by him to Sammy Davis Jr. —whose widow has said she will never part with it— and there is, Dean's lucky pocket watch —an item that personifies his place in time and his contribution to film history.

Details on the Lucky Pocket Watch

Elgin, No. 3071580, case No. 4275904. 37 mm case made circa 1889 by Standard USA, with an Elgin movement. The gold filled case features 'bassine et filets', engine-turned back, a cartouche with the initials 'JD' engraved on the front cover, a coin-edge case
band and a hinged 'cuvette'. The dial is white enamel with radial Roman numerals, an outer minute track, sunken subsidiary seconds and blued steel spade hands. The movement is rhodium plated, with a 3/4 plate, five jewels, straight line lever escapement and a cut-bimetallic compensation balance with blued steel balance spring. The movement and case are signed. The time on Dean's watch is still set at 5:43, the time he lost his life in the tragic car crash. 

For more info on Antiquorum and their auctions click here.