In the world of luxury collaborations, few partnerships feel as naturally aligned as the newly announced union between Zenith and USM Modular Furniture, based in Switzerland. Both brands emerged from the same Swiss artisanal tradition. Yet, their latest collaboration transcends mere marketing synergy to create something genuinely compelling: a collection that asks "what if?" and delivers an answer that feels both inevitable and surprising.
The Genesis of Imagined Heritage
The Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM embodies what Zenith refers to as "imagined heritage"—a fascinating concept that explores alternate timelines in the history of design. The collaboration poses a compelling hypothetical: what if the revolutionary 1969 Zenith DEFY had been equipped with the groundbreaking El Primero movement and drawn inspiration from Fritz Haller's modular furniture system, patented just four years earlier in 1965?
This isn't merely nostalgic speculation. Both brands reached creative peaks during the transformative 1960s—USM with their modular Haller system and Zenith with the world's first automatic high-frequency chronograph. By reimagining their convergence, the partnership creates something that never existed but feels like it always should have.
Design Philosophy Meets Horological Precision
The aesthetic marriage works remarkably well. The original Zenith DEFY's bold octagonal case and fourteen-sided bezel naturally echo USM's signature design language of geometric clarity and structural strength. Maintaining the compact 37.3 mm stainless steel proportions that made the original so distinctive, the watch stays true to the DEFY's DNA while pump-style chronograph pushers enhance its vintage-inspired silhouette. The fourteen-sided bezel creates sharp, geometric lines that directly reference USM's modular aesthetic, while water resistance to 10 ATM ensures the piece can withstand daily wear despite its bold presence.
Perhaps most successfully, the collaboration manifests in the dial executions. Available in four vibrant USM signature colors—USM Green, USM Pure Orange, USM Golden Yellow, and USM Gentian Blue—each variation pays direct homage to the modular aesthetic that made USM famous. The applied square hour markers with horizontal grooves reinforce the architectural character. At the same time, the three overlapping chronograph counters feature a rhodium-plated azuré pattern that subtly references USM's iconic ball joint handles.
The dial layout thoughtfully balances function with aesthetics. Central hour and minute hands provide primary timekeeping, while small seconds nestle elegantly at 9 o'clock. The chronograph configuration features a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, with a date window positioned at 4:30, completing the functional array without disrupting the dial's architectural harmony.
The Movement
At the core of each timepiece beats the legendary El Primero 400 calibre, evolved from the iconic El Primero 3019 PHC that revolutionized chronograph making in 1969. This automatic column-wheel chronograph movement maintains Zenith's signature high frequency of 36,000 vph, delivering exceptional precision while providing a generous 55-hour power reserve that ensures the watch remains accurate even after a weekend off the wrist.
Rarity and Positioning
Each of the four dial colors is produced in a limited edition of 60 pieces, creating a total production run of just 240 watches. The watches come paired with the iconic "ladder" bracelet, initially designed in 1969 by the renowned Gay Frères company exclusively for Zenith — another authentic period detail that reinforces the collaboration's commitment to historical accuracy within its speculative framework.
The playful details elevate the collaboration beyond mere color coordination. The chronograph second hand features a miniature USM Haller ball joint filled with SuperLuminova for low-light visibility. When activated, the chronograph reveals a Zenith star cleverly hidden beneath—a charming easter egg that speaks to the intricate storytelling woven throughout the piece. Visible through the transparent sapphire case back, the movement's rotor bears both the Zenith and USM logos alongside an openworked star motif, creating a refined detail that speaks to the harmony between horological and architectural precision.
Summary
What makes this partnership particularly compelling is how it avoids the typical pitfalls of luxury collaborations. Rather than simply co-branding existing products, Zenith and USM have created something genuinely new that honors both brands' design philosophies. The result appeals not just to watch collectors but to anyone with an appreciation for thoughtful design, modular thinking, and the enduring appeal of 1960s modernism.
Each timepiece comes with a custom-designed USM Haller Timepiece Chest, a secure, lockable, modular unit crafted to evolve with your collection. Each chest includes three color-coordinated and unique watch boxes that can store up to 12 timepieces.
The Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM embodies the shared values of Zenith and USM: Swiss precision, purposeful aesthetics, and a forward-thinking vision that transcends time. The Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM succeeds because it feels authentic to both brands while creating something entirely new. It's a collaboration that respects history while imagining alternative possibilities—precisely what the best design partnerships should strive to achieve. For collectors seeking something distinctive that bridges horology and industrial design, these four colorful interpretations offer a compelling entry point into both brands' aesthetic universes.
Sticker Price USD 11,800. More info on Zenith here.
