In the high-octane world of 1960s Formula One, Nina Rindt became an unexpected style icon—not for what she wore, but for how she wore her watch. The Finnish model, married to champion driver Jochen Rindt, was a constant presence on the trackside, timing laps with a Universal Genève Compax. But this wasn't just any chronograph. Nina transformed it with a wide leather bund strap discovered in Paris, creating what collectors now call "the Nina"—one of the most sought-after vintage chronographs of the 20th century.
Now, more than half a century later, Universal Genève brings Nina's iconic watch back for the first time in precious metal. Released as an ultra-exclusive offering of just six individually crafted pieces—two complete sets of three watches each—the Tribute to Compax collection represents the brand's statement of intent as it prepares for its long-awaited 2026 relaunch.
A Highly Exclusive: Precious Metal
Housed in 36 mm cases of either 18K white or red gold, measuring 12.67 mm in thickness, these aren't mere reproductions—they're reinterpretations that honor Nina's improvisational spirit while showcasing the highest expressions of contemporary craftsmanship.
The case itself honors the classic Compax design. The 36 mm diameter and 19 mm lug width create balanced proportions, while the cambered sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides, and a screwed-in case back ensure 50 meters of water resistance. A fixed aluminum bezel featuring a tachymeter scale nods to the racing heritage. The two complete sets include three watches each, with the first set including two red gold pieces and one white gold piece; and the second set including two white gold pieces and one red gold piece.
From there, attention shifts to the dials, where Universal Genève chose grand feu enamel—one of watchmaking's most revered decorative crafts. The six dials range from classic opaque white and black to translucent blue and brown, each requiring minerals enriched with metallic oxides, fired at over 800°C, and reapplied up to ten times.
The technique is unforgiving: a single imperfection can destroy the work. Yet properly executed, these dials will never fade. Each features SuperLumiNova on the hands, with chronograph counters creating a striking visual contrast.
Leather Straps by Satoru Hosoi: Japan’s Finest
The collection revolves around handcrafted bund straps created by celebrated Japanese leather artisan Satoru Hosoi, marking his first collaboration with a watch brand. Hosoi, who earned the prestigious title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2015 after mastering his craft at Hermès and Moynat, constructed each strap from three interlocked pieces of calfskin, sewn in a way that makes them inseparable.
Unlike typical bunds with detachable components, these are couture-level leather work that elevates the utilitarian to the sublime. The color palette proves equally considered: brown or black calfskin paired with 18K white gold cases; taupe or olive matched with 18K red gold. Fittingly, these straps were created in Paris—the very city where Nina first transformed her Compax.
The Movement
Inside beats another piece of history: restored archival Calibre 281 movements from the Compax era. These manual-winding, column-wheel chronographs measure 28.5 mm in diameter and 7.10 mm in thickness, providing approximately 36 hours of power reserve at 18,000 vibrations per hour—equivalent to 2.5 Hz.
While the original 1960s "Nina" used the Valjoux 72, these tribute pieces mark the only "Ninas" powered by Universal Genève's own historic movement. The chronograph's red seconds hand—recalling Jochen Rindt's modification for better visibility—slices across each enamel dial with graphic clarity.
Summary & Price
The Tribute to Compax continues a philosophy that Universal Genève has adopted for its revival: treating watchmaking as a Métier d'Art. Like the white-gold Polerouter bracelet created in 2024 by Laurent Jolliet, one of Switzerland's last master chain makers, these watches represent handwork elevated to an art form.
Only six pieces will be made across two complete sets, available exclusively on request. Proceeds support the Geneva Watchmaking School, funding apprenticeships and preserving rare crafts—a fitting gesture for a brand positioning itself as "Le Couturier de la Montre," where past and future meet in perfect harmony.
Sticker Price CHF 135,000—approx USD 167,900. More information on Universal Genève here.
