The MB&F X Bvlgari Serpenti represents a fascinating convergence of two distinct horological philosophies—MB&F's avant-garde Swiss mechanical artistry and Bvlgari's luxurious Italian sprezzatura—the art of making difficult things appear effortless and graceful. This collaboration, born from the friendship between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Maximilian Büsser, successfully reimagines the iconic 1948 Serpenti watch as a three-dimensional kinetic sculpture.
Things to Know About the Watch
The watch's serpentine form is immediately captivating, housed in a substantial 53 mm x 39 mm x 18 mm case that curves organically around the wrist. The watch is available in three limited editions of 33 pieces each—grade 5 titanium with blue accents, 18K rose gold with green details, and black PVD-coated steel with red highlights—each variant offers a distinct personality while maintaining the collection's core identity. Unfortunately, we could only photograph the black and rose gold versions of the watch.
The most striking feature is undoubtedly the animated ‘eyes’ formed by rotating hour and minute domes. The left dome completes a full rotation every 12 hours, while the right dome turns every 60 minutes, creating an almost hypnotic display that brings the mechanical serpent to life. Hand-applied SuperLumiNova ensures these mesmerizing eyes glow in the darkness, adding to the watch's theatrical presence.
The Movement
Beneath the sculptural exterior lies MB&F's typical technical prowess. The in-house movement features an impressive 14 mm flying balance wheel—oversized by traditional standards—beating at 18,000 vph and secured by a three-dimensional bridge bearing both brands' signatures. This central ‘brain’ of the mechanical reptile serves as both a functional component and a visual centerpiece.
The engineering challenges overcome here are remarkable. The complex curves of both case and five sapphire crystals—including the snake's eyes—create what MB&F describes as a machining nightmare, yet the execution is flawless. Achieving 30-meter water resistance with such an unconventional case architecture demonstrates serious technical capability. Flipping the watch reveals the power reserve indicator and showcases the movement's intricate finishing across its 310 components.
On the Wrist & Price
Despite its substantial dimensions, the organic curves help the watch sit surprisingly well on the wrist. The hand-stitched rubber straps with a velcro closure system provide secure, comfortable wear, though the watch's sculptural nature means it's more of a conversation piece than a daily wearer. The dual crown system, integrated into the rear lugs, offers intuitive winding and time-setting functionality.
The MB&F X Bvlgari Serpenti succeeds as both a horological innovation and wearable art. It honors Bvlgari's serpentine legacy while pushing boundaries in ways only MB&F could conceive. The automotive design influences—from the sleek case resembling car bodywork to the stepped crystal mimicking sports car elements—add unexpected depth to the design narrative.
This isn't a watch for everyone but for collectors seeking something truly unique that bridges traditional luxury and contemporary innovation, the Serpenti collaboration delivers spectacularly. It's a mechanical sculpture that happens to tell time, and in that mission, it succeeds brilliantly.
Sticker Price USD 148,000 for the titanium models and USD 170,000 for the 18K rose gold. For more info on MB&F click here. For more info on Bvlgari click here.
